I have had the I1500 wind safe up for almost a year. The turbine is great the springs are the weak point. I have had them break several times. I finally made some modifications and used springs from LEE Springs. As for the turbine holding up is is the best I have found yet. I have seen it hit 2000 wats in 45mph winds.
Got the non tilt version recently and found one of the blades came in by half an inch so put some packing ( milk bottle plastic) behind the last bolt which brought it a lot closer to in line with the other two blades, checked the tip angle and got 3 different angles one of them actually reverse camber so about 4 degrees, 2 degrees and minus 1 degrees so put more packing on the side of them to make more or less the same at the tip. Starts a lot easier now. Not keen on the finish, took the tail off after a week and half the coating stuck to the tail leaving bare aluminium behind. Need to have a good look over the whole thing before putting it up, not ballanced very well either so made a centre for the hub with hole through and suspended it on both sides so the heavy blades fell and put a few washers behind the bolts that helped quite a bit.Not perfect yet but getting there.
@ about 20:00 when you start to take the hub nut off it looked like the hub sprung to center on the shaft. I have tried tightening the bolts from different ends to try and get the blade tips in line and pulling back and forth side to side on the hub as I tighten nut bit by bit, when they are running true they sound cool Thanks for the video
The tail tube looked as though it was not aligned with the axis of the generator, is that deliberate? and, why do you mount the ‘shark fin’ tail upside down?? Is there a performance difference it mounted that way?
I'm hoping the springs prove to be a little light...I'd rather see just under rated wattage but a little less stress on my tower with the turbine tilted back lol...hopefully we'll get to see it in action later this coming week!
Balancing the blades is the most important point. We lay the prop flat on a level floor. We have 3 level points which hold up the blade tips. The centre of the hub sits on a cone which is held up by a 4mm steel nail. The cone is stepped in such a way as for various hubs up to 40mm in diameter will find a step on tbe cone for the hub hole to sit level on. So with a little help you make sure that you have approx 20mm clearance between the blade tips and their supports. You can start off with little weights You only have to correct 2 blades at the most. I used little lead weights sitting on the blades approx 50 mm in from the tips, I always use hollow fiber blades. I drill 2 holes at 50mm from tbe tips. I inject the equivalent weight in sealant. I wait till the sealant goes hard. I drill one hole on tbe 3 blade. These holes allow tbe internal moisture to escape when tbe blades begin to speed up. The identical positions of these open holes ( 5mm) make sure that tbe weight in each blade stays the same. I have been doing this for 18 years. My props are lasting a minimum of 8 years each. Mishaps are the only cause of replacements. I coat them every 2 years with Gravit600. It protects tbe blades from ice hail during our storms. I hope this helps.
hello, I am more then interesting everything what you said about balancing the blades. Would you be kind to make little movie how you doing that please? Thank you, Konrad
You have been running this for awhile now. Do you like this more than the regular i2000 or would you choose something else? I worry about the springs always pulling it up and not performing to its max potential based on a few reviews.
If I had to go buy one it would be the standard version, not the windsafe...not at this time anyway. I think the windsafe tilts it out of the wind a little early and robs some of the potential, but it's an easy complaint for me to make when I don't rely on the turbine always being working. I think the standard version has greater output potential, and it's a simpler machine...and I always dig "simple".
Wild AC is an odd terminology but perhaps descriptive as vind and solar AC voltage is inherently linked to revolutions of the rotor in PMG. AC is AC - steady or fluctuating.
I have a question: did the spring braking system come with the unit? also, is there any tech reason why did you went with an i2000 rather than a heli 2000? Thanks and cool content.
The spring assembly comes that way, it's more of a furl than a brake, though. I already have a Heli 2.0, the biggest reason for this change is because my i1500 was 24v and I'm trying to get everything set up on 48v.
Most people who have Bergey XL's only have to tinker with them once every ten years or so. Most of these smaller micro turbines will require more frequent maintenance.
Can you take a picture of what you mean? (or rather where it goes since it's lost) I think I know what you're talking about but I want to make sure before I make a suggestion.
okay that's the key...I thought that was what you meant but wanted to be certain. The only way I know to get a direct factory fit replacement would be to contact ista breeze...they'd probably send you one for free. BUT you can go down to a lot of hardware stores or specialty places (Tractor Supply is my favorite) and they'll have key stock...you just have to find the right width and then cut it to fit the slot. If nothing else literally ANY machinist can make you one cheap.
Hi man, can you cast your mind back to our conversation about how shit TESSUP are? Out of the 6 black blades I have 3 are usable but once mounted to the hub the blades bend inwards quite significantly, your white ones look look nice and straight. Do you think I should warm them up with a heat gun and bent them back straight? Thanks for the vids and your effort!
The blades are glass fiber reinforced nylon...heating them up with a gun might allow the nylon to reshape but I don't know how well it'll work with the fiber reinforcement. When you install the blades on the hub make sure they're sitting flush against the metal. There's casting "stuff" that make it not sit flush on some of them. Unless you're getting close to the tower, though, the blades being flexed in won't really hurt anything so long as they still balance. I like to have them all track evenly but I can't get it every time.
@@ToysforWatts Hi man, yeah there was loads of moulding flashing to shave off of the blades. These were bowed out of the box. I didn't even think about blade to tower clearance! 🤣 I think I will try heating and straightening a scrap one first. Cheers
Houston I have a problem lol. Just dry assembled it, the worst one Bowes to 2.5inch from the pole. I can flex it with my little pinky and touch the pole with ease. Also just discovered the bloody keyway slot in the hub is undersize lol
In this presentation you recommend to always use 3 blade instead of 5 blades configuration, WHY?? I would think that 5 blades, the propeller will have higher torque. now if the generator generates higher resistance at high output, the 5 blade propeller will have more power to turn the generator.
There's no free lunch! You have rotational torque and RPM that you have to deal with. Micro turbines need RPM, not torque, with very few exceptions. Adding more blades will allow more of the wind's potential power to transfer to the shaft, but at the cost of RPM and reaction time. Five or more blades almost always sacrifices peak performance with minimal, if any, gain anywhere else.
@@ToysforWatts that’s a great answer and has put that particular question to bed for me, I was in the 5 or more blade camp right up till you told that nugget of info, thank you.
You're measuring 2 phases that are 120 degrees apart, with a device that assumes 180 degree separation, so you're not getting the correct reading. I'm somewhat sure you can get the right voltage by multiplying by 1.11. Or maybe just measure the rectified and capacitor-smoothed DC voltage.
Thanks for doing this vid Justin - I'm just getting started with plans to use this turbine. It was good to see you go through it.
I have had the I1500 wind safe up for almost a year. The turbine is great the springs are the weak point. I have had them break several times. I finally made some modifications and used springs from LEE Springs. As for the turbine holding up is is the best I have found yet. I have seen it hit 2000 wats in 45mph winds.
For some reason the 1500 is more expensive than the 2000?
Did the springs break right at the eye? Or close to it? I would imagine there will be some mechanical rubbing on the mounting pins over time….
Got the non tilt version recently and found one of the blades came in by half an inch so put some packing ( milk bottle plastic) behind the last bolt which brought it a lot closer to in line with the other two blades, checked the tip angle and got 3 different angles one of them actually reverse camber so about 4 degrees, 2 degrees and minus 1 degrees so put more packing on the side of them to make more or less the same at the tip. Starts a lot easier now. Not keen on the finish, took the tail off after a week and half the coating stuck to the tail leaving bare aluminium behind. Need to have a good look over the whole thing before putting it up, not ballanced very well either so made a centre for the hub with hole through and suspended it on both sides so the heavy blades fell and put a few washers behind the bolts that helped quite a bit.Not perfect yet but getting there.
Super film
@ about 20:00 when you start to take the hub nut off it looked like the hub sprung to center on the shaft.
I have tried tightening the bolts from different ends to try and get the blade tips in line and pulling back and forth side to side on the hub as I tighten nut bit by bit, when they are running true they sound cool
Thanks for the video
Good work
The tail tube looked as though it was not aligned with the axis of the generator, is that deliberate? and, why do you mount the ‘shark fin’ tail upside down?? Is there a performance difference it mounted that way?
I will be curious to see how those springs work and hold up. For the price they seem to be putting out some pretty good products.
I'm hoping the springs prove to be a little light...I'd rather see just under rated wattage but a little less stress on my tower with the turbine tilted back lol...hopefully we'll get to see it in action later this coming week!
Hi great video! Can you measure Watts at starting wind velocity? Is it about 3 m/s ? Below thath nothing Power? Many thanx
Hi! Whats the lowest rmp that the i2000 need ?
Balancing the blades is the most important point. We lay the prop flat on a level floor.
We have 3 level points which hold up the blade tips. The centre of the hub sits on a cone which is held up by a 4mm steel nail. The cone is stepped in such a way as for various hubs up to 40mm in diameter will find a step on tbe cone for the hub hole to sit level on. So with a little help you make sure that you have approx 20mm clearance between the blade tips and their supports.
You can start off with little weights You only have to correct 2 blades at the most.
I used little lead weights sitting on the blades approx 50 mm in from the tips, I always use hollow fiber blades. I drill 2 holes at 50mm from tbe tips. I inject the equivalent weight in sealant. I wait till the sealant goes hard. I drill one hole on tbe 3 blade. These holes allow tbe internal moisture to escape when tbe blades begin to speed up. The identical positions of these open holes ( 5mm) make sure that tbe weight in each blade stays the same. I have been doing this for 18 years. My props are lasting a minimum of 8 years each. Mishaps are the only cause of replacements. I coat them every 2 years with Gravit600. It protects tbe blades from ice hail during our storms. I hope this helps.
hello, I am more then interesting everything what you said about balancing the blades. Would you be kind to make little movie how you doing that please?
Thank you,
Konrad
how long is the motor where is the coils
You have been running this for awhile now. Do you like this more than the regular i2000 or would you choose something else? I worry about the springs always pulling it up and not performing to its max potential based on a few reviews.
If I had to go buy one it would be the standard version, not the windsafe...not at this time anyway. I think the windsafe tilts it out of the wind a little early and robs some of the potential, but it's an easy complaint for me to make when I don't rely on the turbine always being working. I think the standard version has greater output potential, and it's a simpler machine...and I always dig "simple".
That is exactly what I worried about. Thanks a bunch. I just hit buy on the standard i2000. Can't wait to see this in action...
😇👍
Wild AC is an odd terminology but perhaps descriptive as vind and solar AC voltage is inherently linked to revolutions of the rotor in PMG. AC is AC - steady or fluctuating.
I have a question: did the spring braking system come with the unit? also, is there any tech reason why did you went with an i2000 rather than a heli 2000? Thanks and cool content.
He already own a heli. And the i2000 wind safe is kind of new from istabreeze.
The spring assembly comes that way, it's more of a furl than a brake, though. I already have a Heli 2.0, the biggest reason for this change is because my i1500 was 24v and I'm trying to get everything set up on 48v.
is there a wind turbine setup that actually works without daily intervention? I want to supplement my existing solar.
Most people who have Bergey XL's only have to tinker with them once every ten years or so. Most of these smaller micro turbines will require more frequent maintenance.
Hi, I lost the little clip that the wind mechanism slots into. Is there something I can use in its place?
Can you take a picture of what you mean? (or rather where it goes since it's lost) I think I know what you're talking about but I want to make sure before I make a suggestion.
@@ToysforWatts drive.google.com/file/d/1DTv12KPHaX4rQS9BKXvsnM09VUSDXtVD/view?usp=sharing
okay that's the key...I thought that was what you meant but wanted to be certain. The only way I know to get a direct factory fit replacement would be to contact ista breeze...they'd probably send you one for free. BUT you can go down to a lot of hardware stores or specialty places (Tractor Supply is my favorite) and they'll have key stock...you just have to find the right width and then cut it to fit the slot. If nothing else literally ANY machinist can make you one cheap.
Lol, my workbench looks the same as yours
Hi ! Good Job !!! 1000 W.. ? Nice..! ;)
Gives 200 W. ;)
Regards Paul P. :)
Is it up yet lol
We gotta do birthday burgers for great grandma! I'm hoping to stand it up this evening!
Just kidding take your time have fun
Hi man, can you cast your mind back to our conversation about how shit TESSUP are?
Out of the 6 black blades I have 3 are usable but once mounted to the hub the blades bend inwards quite significantly, your white ones look look nice and straight.
Do you think I should warm them up with a heat gun and bent them back straight?
Thanks for the vids and your effort!
The blades are glass fiber reinforced nylon...heating them up with a gun might allow the nylon to reshape but I don't know how well it'll work with the fiber reinforcement. When you install the blades on the hub make sure they're sitting flush against the metal. There's casting "stuff" that make it not sit flush on some of them. Unless you're getting close to the tower, though, the blades being flexed in won't really hurt anything so long as they still balance. I like to have them all track evenly but I can't get it every time.
@@ToysforWatts Hi man, yeah there was loads of moulding flashing to shave off of the blades. These were bowed out of the box. I didn't even think about blade to tower clearance! 🤣
I think I will try heating and straightening a scrap one first.
Cheers
Houston I have a problem lol. Just dry assembled it, the worst one Bowes to 2.5inch from the pole. I can flex it with my little pinky and touch the pole with ease.
Also just discovered the bloody keyway slot in the hub is undersize lol
In this presentation you recommend to always use 3 blade instead of 5 blades configuration, WHY?? I would think that 5 blades, the propeller will have higher torque. now if the generator generates higher resistance at high output, the 5 blade propeller will have more power to turn the generator.
There's no free lunch! You have rotational torque and RPM that you have to deal with. Micro turbines need RPM, not torque, with very few exceptions. Adding more blades will allow more of the wind's potential power to transfer to the shaft, but at the cost of RPM and reaction time. Five or more blades almost always sacrifices peak performance with minimal, if any, gain anywhere else.
@@ToysforWatts that’s a great answer and has put that particular question to bed for me, I was in the 5 or more blade camp right up till you told that nugget of info, thank you.
You're measuring 2 phases that are 120 degrees apart, with a device that assumes 180 degree separation, so you're not getting the correct reading. I'm somewhat sure you can get the right voltage by multiplying by 1.11. Or maybe just measure the rectified and capacitor-smoothed DC voltage.