I noticed that when you started to reassemble the pieces of the clutch basket that you didn't bend the tongue of that washer behind the nut and I thought to myself “Oh No". “He didn't bend the tongue of the washer behind the nut". Camera fades to black, then fades from black to Urban Monk explaining that he had to back track the clutch basket reassembly to bend the tongue of the washer behind the nut. GOOD CATCH there.
It's a struggle sometimes to keep the mechanical side of things straight and focus on cameras at the same time. Requires thinking ahead to editing a bit too. I don't always get it right the first time.
@@UrbanMonkTV You do very well in recovering. After all you mentioned in this segment “that we are human". I'm still looking for the item on your playlist related to GS 550 Cafe Racer replacing generator/stator cover and starter cover. I know that it's out there and will find it in time. Thanks, still enjoy watching. Andy R. directed me to your channel.
@@claytonfields8017 I believe I pointed you in the wrong direction on my playlists. I think I found them under engine restoration. Here's taking the stator off the engine th-cam.com/video/eoOxdrI6VmE/w-d-xo.html ...
Hey I am in the middle of reassembling a GS750 which is pretty similar to this motor and I would not be able to do it with out these videos thank you for making them
Thank you so much for taking the time to say so! I really appreciate that. Enjoy your project! Engine work is my favorite and I'm missing that stage of my project.
@@wilksracing5315 Yes. Page 146 of Service Manual says head nuts 16.5-19.5 lb-ft and head bolts (the little ones on the ends) 5-8 lb-ft. Camshaft journal bolts should be 6-8.5 lb-ft. I mount my head and torque down in Part 17 and do the camshafts in Part 18. Hope that helps!
Only that your "stack" should begin and end with the fiber plates, with the metal plates in between each fiber plate. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for watching!
I'm sorry, I'm not recalling that particular part. I checked the parts breakout diagram and don't see a thin wire. Do you have a different model than my 1978 E by chance? Thank you for watching.
hi there thanks for your presious advises on motorcycles mecanics. i wonder if your'r gona make a video on how to replace the timing chain on a gs850g .if i change it do i have to change the guide and the chain...thanks
Thanks for watching! I didn't need to change the timing chain on mine and it is all put together now, so I will not be doing a video on it. Whether or not you change the guide along with the chain is a personal choice. Depends on the wear you see on yours. I assume since you've determined your chain is in need of replacement that the guide has seen better days too. Perhaps it is best to do both since you're in there. The guides are still available new. (The tensioners are not.) I hope this helps.
@@UrbanMonkTV thanks for the quick response.i dont realy know if the chain is worn out the fact is their's a strange sound comming from the engin a mecanic told me that it could be the timing chain thanks any way
Hi quick question,I have a 78 Suzuki GS I am rebuilding. The clutch is slipping and I already took it out, the clutches do look pretty worn out and the metal disc’s have some small wear marks would you recommend me reusing them if they still have the right thickness?
Thanks for watching! If the metal disks are within thickness specs they should be fine with new clutch disks. Unless of course the scratching is profound, which it sounds like is not the case. 🙂
So my chain snapped on my '79 gs550l and when it went it bent my clutch pushrod and damaged some other stuff. I got a good deal on a another bike I was gunna steal some parts from (81 gs550l). the pushrod on my '79 comes almost all the way out before catching on something and won't fully slide out. And on the '81 the pushrod only comes out an inch or two before getting caught. Should the push rod slide out the left hand side (where the cable and actuator is) or do I have to drain the oil and remove the right hand cover and clutch pressure plate to replace the pushrod? Is there a circlip I have to remove or should I put some vise grips on it and pull harder? Figured I'd ask before I break something else....
Caveat...I've not removed mine personally because my transmission was in good shape b4 I tore my bike down, but from what I can see in the service manual there's some threads on the clutch side of that shaft whereas the sprocket side is clean. Though the diagram in the SM doesn't show any obstruction inside the counter shaft (through which it runs), it may very well be that the rod is intended to come out on the clutch side (right side). "Adventures suck when you're having them." -Neil Peart 🙂
Thanks for your reply!! Love your videos by the way! Took the clutch cover and pressure plate out and got the pushrods out. It looks like very large threads but it doesn't thread into anything so I assume it's to keep the rod centered in the sleeve. Also as a note the pushrods were different between the '79 and '81. The '79 was a continuous diameter full steel rod whereas the '81 was a bit thicker (by a mm or so) and tapered off to the same diameter as the other rod where it comes out on the left hand side and the thicker portion appears to be brass or brass plated or something. Both rods are the same length and the rod from the '81 slid in with no issues and appears as tho it will work. We'll see!! Thanks again for the help and love the detail in your videos!! Keep up the great work!
Came to your channel for the Vstrom maintenance videos. Stayed for these rebuild videos. Still Bingeing. Thanks. I love engine rebuild videos.
Russell Reeves Glad you are enjoying! I'm enjoying doing them.
Really enjoying the entire series so far. I'm rebuilding the exact same model and year, so these videos will help if I forget where something goes.
This really is a warts and all presentation :-)
Well...thanks for watching.
I noticed that when you started to reassemble the pieces of the clutch basket that you didn't bend the tongue of that washer behind the nut and I thought to myself “Oh No". “He didn't bend the tongue of the washer behind the nut". Camera fades to black, then fades from black to Urban Monk explaining that he had to back track the clutch basket reassembly to bend the tongue of the washer behind the nut. GOOD CATCH there.
It's a struggle sometimes to keep the mechanical side of things straight and focus on cameras at the same time. Requires thinking ahead to editing a bit too. I don't always get it right the first time.
@@UrbanMonkTV You do very well in recovering. After all you mentioned in this segment “that we are human". I'm still looking for the item on your playlist related to GS 550 Cafe Racer replacing generator/stator cover and starter cover. I know that it's out there and will find it in time. Thanks, still enjoy watching. Andy R. directed me to your channel.
@@claytonfields8017 That was very kind of Andy! I'm grateful!
@@claytonfields8017 I believe I pointed you in the wrong direction on my playlists. I think I found them under engine restoration. Here's taking the stator off the engine th-cam.com/video/eoOxdrI6VmE/w-d-xo.html ...
@@claytonfields8017 ...and here's testing and replacing stator on engine th-cam.com/video/qtXAvqX3VD0/w-d-xo.html
Hey I am in the middle of reassembling a GS750 which is pretty similar to this motor and I would not be able to do it with out these videos thank you for making them
Thank you so much for taking the time to say so! I really appreciate that. Enjoy your project! Engine work is my favorite and I'm missing that stage of my project.
Do you know what the torque specs are on the head and cams?
@@wilksracing5315 Yes. Page 146 of Service Manual says head nuts 16.5-19.5 lb-ft and head bolts (the little ones on the ends) 5-8 lb-ft. Camshaft journal bolts should be 6-8.5 lb-ft. I mount my head and torque down in Part 17 and do the camshafts in Part 18. Hope that helps!
That's for the 550 BTW. Assume 750 is same or close.
Have you got your service manual? You can get it here if not... gsarchive.bwringer.com/
Is there a plate order for the friction and clutch plates
Only that your "stack" should begin and end with the fiber plates, with the metal plates in between each fiber plate. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for watching!
What about the thin wire that holds the most inner steel plate in the clutch basket?
I'm sorry, I'm not recalling that particular part. I checked the parts breakout diagram and don't see a thin wire. Do you have a different model than my 1978 E by chance? Thank you for watching.
Hold down the ingnition wires on my 550
hi there thanks for your presious advises on motorcycles mecanics. i wonder if your'r gona make a video on how to replace the timing chain on a gs850g .if i change it do i have to change the guide and the chain...thanks
Thanks for watching! I didn't need to change the timing chain on mine and it is all put together now, so I will not be doing a video on it. Whether or not you change the guide along with the chain is a personal choice. Depends on the wear you see on yours. I assume since you've determined your chain is in need of replacement that the guide has seen better days too. Perhaps it is best to do both since you're in there. The guides are still available new. (The tensioners are not.) I hope this helps.
@@UrbanMonkTV thanks for the quick response.i dont realy know if the chain is worn out the fact is their's a strange sound comming from the engin a mecanic told me that it could be the timing chain thanks any way
Hi quick question,I have a 78 Suzuki GS I am rebuilding. The clutch is slipping and I already took it out, the clutches do look pretty worn out and the metal disc’s have some small wear marks would you recommend me reusing them if they still have the right thickness?
Thanks for watching! If the metal disks are within thickness specs they should be fine with new clutch disks. Unless of course the scratching is profound, which it sounds like is not the case. 🙂
So my chain snapped on my '79 gs550l and when it went it bent my clutch pushrod and damaged some other stuff. I got a good deal on a another bike I was gunna steal some parts from (81 gs550l). the pushrod on my '79 comes almost all the way out before catching on something and won't fully slide out. And on the '81 the pushrod only comes out an inch or two before getting caught. Should the push rod slide out the left hand side (where the cable and actuator is) or do I have to drain the oil and remove the right hand cover and clutch pressure plate to replace the pushrod? Is there a circlip I have to remove or should I put some vise grips on it and pull harder? Figured I'd ask before I break something else....
Caveat...I've not removed mine personally because my transmission was in good shape b4 I tore my bike down, but from what I can see in the service manual there's some threads on the clutch side of that shaft whereas the sprocket side is clean. Though the diagram in the SM doesn't show any obstruction inside the counter shaft (through which it runs), it may very well be that the rod is intended to come out on the clutch side (right side). "Adventures suck when you're having them." -Neil Peart 🙂
Thanks for your reply!! Love your videos by the way! Took the clutch cover and pressure plate out and got the pushrods out. It looks like very large threads but it doesn't thread into anything so I assume it's to keep the rod centered in the sleeve. Also as a note the pushrods were different between the '79 and '81. The '79 was a continuous diameter full steel rod whereas the '81 was a bit thicker (by a mm or so) and tapered off to the same diameter as the other rod where it comes out on the left hand side and the thicker portion appears to be brass or brass plated or something. Both rods are the same length and the rod from the '81 slid in with no issues and appears as tho it will work. We'll see!! Thanks again for the help and love the detail in your videos!! Keep up the great work!
@@CDruckemiller Thanks for sharing your insights. Helpful to other viewers here. And thanks thanks for watching!
Q tal amigo podrás mandar un motor Suzuki modelo 81,550cc a México