Alex, Thank you for this video series. I am in the aftermath of a great reset in my life and I am throwing everything at becoming a watchmaker. Your videos combine my love of watchmaking and mechanics with another love of mine: doing things the right way as inexpensively as possible. You are the Chrisfix of the watch world showing us starting out where to save and exactly what we need to do the job. I love it. I have a considerable chunk of cash to throw at Watchmaking and a small machine shop (for making cases and dials 😀) but every dollar I save lets me get a better cutter or more stock or more supplies, or old watches and clocks to fix! So thank you!
Really, I never, NEVER thought that i would find the PERFECT TH-cam channel. A year ago i somehow found a passion for old mechanical pocket watches, but i never made any progress except for just disassembling and reassembling them without making any impact on the watch itself. But since i have found this channel i have actually acquired a structured way of learning more about repairs of watches. Btw you know how i stumbled upon your channel? The guy from c spinner watch restoration suggested you. Well - he was right. I cannot stand how absolutely degenerative people of my age watch mr beast or tiktok or som other random shit like that, so guys: go watch this instead. Thank you for your time and hard work to teach us all the magnificent art of watchmaking. 👏🙏❤️
Hey man, This is meant for the budget minded guys out there. Butttt, the basket could also be used in a jar sitting in a Ultrasonic. When switching from one jar to another, it would enable you to spin off the excess fluid before going into the next jar, extending the life of your rinse solutions. 😀
I'm not knocking it in any way, it was just very unexpected. Especially when you were going over the basket I'm watching thinking what is he gonna do here??... It's a hell of a solution to a common problem. Those old L&R machines are expensive.
I strongly agree with everyone else. These videos are extremely helpful and I cannot thank you enough. I've done alot of research so far, and I mean alot, but your channel is one of the best sources I have found.
No. NC. I just upgraded my camera and audio equipment so hopefully you’ll see some more improvements. Honestly, the main thing is just getting comfortable talking to a camera, which is incredibly hard to do at least for me
@@watchrepairtutorials well you are great and the instructions are clear. I’m replacing a nameless movement in a cheap Rolex copy with a Citizen Miyota 8215 right now and so far so good but the hands from the cheap mechanical Mvmt don’t fit so I’ve ordered new ones. Hoping to get it running
First things first. I worked in a watch , clock repair shop in the mid 70 ' s as a teen. For four years I trained under one of the best watchmakers in town. I still have some basic tools. I'm soon going to be at retardment age. I mean retirement. I'm going to start working on watches again as a hobby. They say great minds think alike. Your cleaning equipment is exactly the same way I want to set up mine. Cleaning watches is very important, yet not quite rocket science. You have a new viewer, follower as of this video. Thank you. Looking forward to more. No pressure.
Awesome to have you, no pressure felt. I am always open to learning something new as well so feel free to chime in. You are correct, cleaning is not rocket science and you can get there a lot of different ways. There’s only 2 simple rules. They have to be clean and free of residue. Cleaning machines are a luxury for many and a time saver for me. Retardment, that’s funny, I don’t care who you are.
Hi! Diane from Florida here! I love your videos I’m learning so much! I love the spinning basket. You are such a McGyver. 🥰❤️🥰 OK I just really aged myself, but I don’t care Im happy 😃
Hey Diane from Florida. I really appreciate hearing from the lady watchmakers out there. I know there’s a bunch, they just don’t make their presence known. Thank you 😊
@@watchrepairtutorials I am Setter and Goldsmith, slowly working my way towards watchmaking as well. It's like talking to someone I've worked with for years, explaining a technique I didn't know about.
@@watchrepairtutorials Yes just by hand with brushes. I only touch cheap movements though and I go through them slowly for my own enjoyment, I don't trust myself with anything too expensive yet
@@heavyglassglass kudos for knowing your limit and giving yourself time to develop skills and your knowledge base. The main thing is that it’s fun for you. There’s nothing wrong with working on inexpensive movements. As a matter of fact sometimes I work on $20 Chinese movements just to see if I can improve the performance.
@@watchrepairtutorials yea I'd hate to destroy a nicer piece. The first movement I went through and still wear in a watch occasionally was a Chinese ST36 movement. It works great but man is that thing loud. I'm looking forward to checking out more of your videos to pick up some good tips
You my friend have a very good ability to simplify the process of watch restoration for me,I’m a total beginner,I haven’t repaired a watch yet,I’ve been working on clocks,and soon will be taking on a Waltham pocket watch, once I’ve built my tools and equipment up, thankyou, i can be more comfortable in my journey with videos like these,so I’m set properly to succeed thankyou.
Absolutely the details I am looking for... just starting out to clean my own watches, low-volume, and can't justify machines, etc, yet. THX for doing this video!
Glad to help! You seem to get what I was going for here. There’s much better ways to clean watch parts but when you first starting this is a way to do it without letting the lack of equipment stop you.
I’m in the same boat. Ronsonol/naphtha and IPA with Alex’s cleaning jar setup. Quick question though - if one were to use the L&R solution (like the L&R ultrasonic #111)….does that stuff work even without the ultrasonic?
Been collecting since 1980's, went to watch school in 2011. Sold two watch cleaning machines. Prefer hand cleaning. Your method surprised me in a good way. A+++++ on the novel approach especially with regard to making a spinning backet. Many thanks.
Hello Tom, The purpose of this video is to show someone new that you can literally clean parts by hand and with a little it if ingenuity you can make a some pretty sweet homemade alternatives to expensive machines. Some of the ones my viewers have made are amazing.
This video, like all your others, contains a wealth of information. First, many thanks for the hexane suggestion. The mixed hexane solution is cheap, it evaporates quickly and it’s a great grease solvent. I use it as a final rinse. Second, the spinning basket is another great idea. I use jars with a low-power ultrasonic cleaner with L&R for washes. My basket has a wire handle. I put an electrical spring clip in the chuck of a drill and it’s great for spinning off cleaners before the next bath. Most importantly, you’ve taught us the importance of a thorough clean. I was pretty good before, but now I understand tat I need to take it to another level. Finally, I stay away from IPA for the pallet fork and the balance because it dissolves the shellac holding the jewels in place.
Your videos are great. No Nonsense straight talk. Practical information. It is all so helpful, especially when you share ways for someone starting out to save money on tools and necessities. I really look forward to the Bonus tips at the end of your videos. Thank you
Your tutorials are the best on TH-cam. I love your no nonsense approach and your empathy for people like me that are starting out in this hobby and dont have too much money to spend. Liked and subscribed Johnny
Thank you for recognizing that. In these beginning videos, they are designed for people who are just starting out. I’ve done all the videos on using ultrasonic machines and I’m even working on one on how to upgrade ultrasonics for even better cleaning. The point of this video is to show you, that machines are not required, but I really more of a convenience than anything else
Awesome presentation! I gotta try my hand at watch repair...once I get my allergies under control. Can't imagine having a beautiful old watch all spread out on the workbench, then an uncontrollable sneeze completely clearing every last part off the table.
Alex, I have been in the automotive industry since 1992 and am certified by DuPont as a certified automotive refinisher. I have been into watches for most of my life and out of necessity I have learned how to fix them. The closest one is 3 hours away and he doesn’t have the best reputation. So I figured if I could build NASCAR engines and build a NASCAR Cup car and paint it then I have the skills and mindset to do it. I have come to look at watch making/ repair is a lot like building a engine or painting a vehicle. Preparation is the key. If you want the best possible results then you need to do each and every step properly. Because cutting a corner in any of the 3 things I named can lead to failures. Paint coming off, engine blows, watch runs poorly. Thanks for sharing your knowledge videos like yours are invaluable to someone like me who has taught themselves all the skill’s I have. I can service an automatic day date is the most complicated movement I have done and it’s the most complex I feel really comfortable doing. Would like to find a easier chronograph movement. I hope you are reading my comment because I hope you have a suggestion for which chronograph movement would be the best for a beginner.
First, I read all comments and I appreciate the time you took to write this on. I am a NASCAR and F1 fan myself. I think there is a similar attitude that translates equally between racing at that level and watchmaking. "Everything Matters". I just watched the 1960 Daytona 500 which started with how Lee Petty started what would become Petty Enterprises. His basic philosophy was to check all the systems over and over, to make sure that nothing would break down during a race. The one thing that eliminated so many cars during a race . Watchmaking is no different. You check your systems in the movement. Like anything else I recommend starting with a new movement to learn on. The ETA 2894-2 and the Sellita SW500 as well as the Valjoux 7750 are all good movements that are pretty straight forward. Personally I would get a ST1902 for 100 bucks or better yet a watch with that movement in it to learn on before getting into the more expensive ones.
Just found your channel and I am so happy to hear and see the valuable tips and tricks you give. Thank you so much. So I am looking forward to service a cheap watch as a first training. And then try to service my Rolex GMT Master II.
The baskets were genius. I am just starting to learn the skills for working on watches since I want to work on some old wrist watches and pocket watches.
Are used to do quite a bit of woodworking back in the day and had a couple close calls, but still have all my digits. Anyway, I’m glad you found the channel. Never hesitate to reach out if you need something. -Alex
Exactly what I've been looking for. I'm new to the hobby and I knew there must be a way to do this by hand without all the expensive machinery. Thank you for the great video
It's good to have you with us Aaron. This video was really meant as a starting point. Obviously it's more labor and time intensive but you're right the whole point is is that you don't need thousands of dollars of equipment. all you need is a little bit of ingenuity.
Alex,nice hearing ur explanation clearly,learn a lot of things regarding watch repair,im 70 yrs old,retired tech my compony send me for training in switzerland,i.t.f.h.,piaget chopard lot more, much interested in your teaching process,simple n easy
It’s an honor to have you sir. My goal is to bring information to new watchmakers in a way that’s relatable to them working in there homes, most of who don’t have a mentor or instructor like you did in Neuchâtel. As you can imagine it is a lot harder to learn what an student learns in a 2 year school with an instructor looking over their back in a home environment.
Wow. This is the video I've been searching for since 2020. Thanks for all the awesome tips and for giving me hope that I can have good results in this cool hobby without spending thousands of dollars to buy a professional cleaning machine. Cheers from Canada! **SUBSCRIBED**
Well, don welcome. That video is still relevant in a lot of ways but I’m working on a new video right now on how to get the most out of an ultrasonic machine and I’m testing different cleaning products to see how they stack up against each other. Should be interesting.
Glad it was helpful. This video was really intended for the watchmaker just starting out. I imagine there are a lot of people holding out because they think they have to have a machine.
Got my first set of parts cleaned! Thanks for the tips. And the Liquinox you recommended elsewhere sure seemed to rinse off MUCH easier than like Dawn soap or whatever. But wow, after the cleaning, it was really obvious how poor my pre-cleaning was! Need to improve that next time.
It works well, which is why they use it in laboratories as well as many other industries. But now you know that you need to work on your pre-cleaning a little bit that's all.
Your vidieos give me inspiration, to motivate me into action instead of thinking about watchmaking.I appreciate your time to inspire others.with every detail . You can certainly put it over in other words you're a good teacher. Thanks . Bill
Obviously, it would depend on what you’re using as a cleaner and how clean or dirty the parts are, but typically about five minutes would be a good starting point
Thanks! Great videos! I built a spinner inspired by this video. I soldered a brass rod directly to the brass small parts basket. I’m working on my first watch.
I JUST COMPLETED YOUR HOMEMADE PARTS CLEANING BASKET AND IT WORKS GREAT. SAVED ME SEVERAL HUNDRED DOLLARS AND DOES A BETTER JOB THAN I WAS USING LIGHTER FLUID AND A BRUSH. I ALSO LIKED YOUR VIDEO ON INSTALLATION OF ROLLER JEWELS USING A BROACH TO HOLD THE ROLLER AND LIQUID SHELLAC. I DON'T KNOW WHY PEOPLE STILL DO IT THE OLD WAY WITH DRY SHELLAC. THANKS!!
Alex, thank you very much for this video. I am just now learning the art of watchmaking and it has been a great deal of fun and learning. I enjoyed your video very much, but have a follow-up question. Here is my understanding of the steps you've taught: 1. Pre-clean your components using IPA dispensed from a Menda type dispenser. 2. Spin watch mesh baskets with watch components in solvent (IPA) 3. Dry spin 4. first rinse in first IPA 5. Dry spin 6. Second rinse in second jar of IPA 7. Dry spin 8. Third rinse in third jar of IPA 9. Dry using dehydrator I feel as though I have missed something here as I wonder whether I should be rinsing in distilled water. Am I only using IPA as the pre-cleaning, final-cleaning and rinse agent? Would it be better to use Hexane as the final-cleaning solvent as it won't dissolve shellac? Can you please assist. Thanks again. Really appreciate your content! Kind Regards, Daniel
When you’re looking at a low budget option for cleaning watch parts, you can begin in precleaning with either napatha or IPA. I would do a first wash cycle in Napatha followed by two rinse cycles of IPA. Water rinses are you with detergents solvent base cleaners. Then you can follow up with drying at a temp around 100 F . Just remember that IPA will dissolve or at the very least loosen shellacked jewels. Removing oils from pallet stones can be done with hexane or one dip. A cheaper alternative for the shellacked parts would be CRC electronics cleaners. Which is basically the same ingredients as what’s in one dip. Just be careful when using hexane or one dip type cleaners and make sure you have ventilation and limit exposure.
Hi Alex, Another great tip. I was about to order 1 Dip when I saw this post saying CRC is a low budget alternative to 1 Dip. I already have here both the CRC electronic cleaner and the CRC brake cleaner. which one is better to use to clean the hairspring? Thanks @@watchrepairtutorials
@@franklima1269 both are good. The main ingredient is tetrachloroethylene same as One dip. I would just spray some in a small jelly jar, and then use that to dip, the balance wheel and pallet fork into it. Just like any cleaner of this type you’ll want to have pretty good ventilation because it does stink.
Thank you Alex. I spray the CRC electronics cleaner in a small glass vial, put the balance wheel in and closed the lid. I could see some bubbles coming out of the balance wheel, which got concerned for a while but I think it was just gases been released because the liquid was under pressure inside the spray can.@@watchrepairtutorials
I'm glad I discovered your channel. I've been interested in watches and clocks for decades and want to learn how to repair them. There was a watchmaker around the turn of the century that allowed me to hang out at his shop and glean some knowledge, but life had different plans and threw some fast and consecutive curve balls at me. I'm ready to get back to it.
What can I say. That have not been expressed already. You are very good. And any one.( And I think there is a lot )people like to do watch repair as a hobby. And for that reason I say.thank you And we ALL NEED YOU!!!!
Hello Wai, If you start with my first videos and watch them one at a time, practice what’s in the video it will teach you the basics and you can build your knowledge on step at a time. I use the ST36 movement which is a great place to start. Let me know how I can help you.
IPA can be somewhat effective, just not as much as hexane. I am working on a video right now about the use of IPA on shellacked parts that may be helpful to you.
Thank you Alex for this info. I understand that alcohol is not recommended for balance and pallet fork cleaning because of the shellac but why not lighter fluid? How does it affect the hair spring? It would be nice to have some information/video dedicated to balance and pallet fork cleaning. There are many opinions out there. Thank you
I’ll do it. There’s a big difference between the napatha used in professional cleaners and the napatha you buy at the store. Mainly the amount of impurities in it. These impurities are left behind On the spring, and can attract dust and dirt to the hairspring. Put a drop of your napatha.on a piece of glass and let it dry and see what’s left behind.
@@watchrepairtutorials Thanks, I did notice some residue after the lighter fluid dries out but I thought that it was dirt that did not clean properly. Thank you for your help
Hi Alex, thank you very much for all of your helpful videos! I am using a 5 step washing cycle: After pre cleaning all parts (excluding the pallet fork and the balance) in IPA, I inspect them after drying under my microscope. The next step is putting the parts in a heated water filled ultrasonic cleaner using a submerged jar filled with an ammonium based cleaning solution (Elma Red 1:9). The parts are collected in small brass baskets which are put into a bigger basket for easier and faster handling. That's the first step in my ultrasonic machine. The next step is letting the parts dry for a couple of moments before putting them into the first and second rinsing fluid (all in my ultrasonic). I use destilled water. The final rinsing solution is 99.9% IPA. Since all liquids are always heated to about 45 °C, there should not be any problem with condensation from the surrounding air. I let it dry and sort all parts for assembly. Now to the interesting part: the pallet fork an balance. Since IPA dissolves shellac I avoid putting them into IPA. They are being cleaned in the first cleaning solution (Elma Red) an rinsed twice in destilled water. In the final step I take them out of the baskets and put them in a separate short bath in IPA to displace any water. After drying I dip them in Bergeon B-Dip (One-Dip) and let them dry again. Do you see any room of improvement in my cleaning process? I was thinking about rinsing parts in only IPA since I am worried that using destilled water could lead to oxidation and rust... But IPA dissolves shellac... Lighter fluid is also an option, but here in my country I find it quite difficult to find lighter fluid without any additives that could left residues... What do you think? Looking forward to your response! Thank you Alex :)
Well, your process is pretty tight and I don’t know if I would change anything if you’re getting good results. The only possible suggestion if it’s an option is to use deionized water which is a purer form. There is additional cost and the purity level is slight so I don’t really know if it’s really necessary.
Off-the-shelf napatha, will have varying degrees of impurities in it. As long as you can get it residue free, then it would be fine. Any leftover residue in jewel holes or end stones or the hairspring will lower the service life of the work you did.
I was about to buy a $200 Lab stirrer to run at 1/10 it's potential speed and not even be able to reverse the spin. I already have a drill and some J-B Weld. Going to try without the copper wire so I can sand it down to look pretty.
Your face when you turned on the drill was priceless! As peg wood - I see little manicure sticks called orange wood sticks. They're used to clean under nails, tidy up the polish on cuticles, etc. I can't see why they wouldn't be good for this purpose?
Peg wood is pretty soft and goes into the jewel hole easily with minimal pressure applied. Many people have tried using tooth picks and all sorts of stuff, but as soon as they move a jewel out of place its back to peg wood
Alex: I put together the basket / jar method and am really happy with how it worked. I got an 1/8" steel rod and some JBWeld from Home Depot and modified the basket like you suggested and it worked great. Thanks for the information and the excellent explanations.
Great video, thanks! I am new to watchmaking and maintenance and am in the process of gathering the necessary tools. I have a number of watches that now require maintenance and that easily costs about €400-500 per watch. And because I find watchmaking very fascinating, I prefer to invest in knowledge and materials. I was already worried about cleaning parts because, especially as a beginner, I am not going to buy an expensive cleaner and probably never will. Your basket and jar system is great! I love good DIY solutions!
If you see the value in investing in knowledge, you may want to consider joining my watchmaking course. It’ll cost way less than screwing up just one of those watches. Here’s some more information. watchrepairtutorials.com/watchmaker-course/
@@watchrepairtutorials Of course I won't use my expensive watches to practice on 😉. There are inexpensive training watches to practice on. But I'm definitely considering an online course. I'm going to read up and watch videos, build up my arsenal of tools, and maybe I'll get back to you.
Thanks for these wonderful tips. I have binged watched the series. You have given me some great new insights into amateur watch repair esp. when it comes to saving money (hexane, menda bottles, etc.). I have though about the drill-basket technique before but never tried it. Now I use paint brushes, pith wood, lighter fluid, and 99% alcohol, and air dry. It seems to work, but the food dehydrator or hair dryer move might be next. I have already dressed my tweezers and screw drivers per your instructions--huge difference. Well done and thanks, again.
This is OK when you’re first starting out but most people get tired of hand cleaning parts and want something a little more efficient. It really just depends on how many watches you work on during a month.
It’s an option, especially if you are new to the game and don’t want to hand clean every single part and screw. Long term you may want to explore soMe kind of machine but this will definitely get the job done. Hey man, I appreciate you watching and hope you follow along.
Hi Alex… Your content and delivery is perfect for this hobbyist! Just a quickie…if liquinox leaves no residue, can one skip the water rinse before the IPA protocol? Thanks once again. Greetings from leafy Surrey in the UK. TonyG
It doesn't leave a residue if it's rinsed. So just like I showed, you can rinse it under the faucet and then do a second with ipa, then dry above room temperature. No short cuts
I'm watching a bunch of videos to get a list together. I don't have a lot of money but I want to get into this hobby thanks to you and a couple other watchmakers on TH-cam. I had this drill idea when trying to figure out how I'd clean movements without an expensive machine, and I'm stoked to see it was recommended. Looking like it'll take several months to slowly put together a set of equipment I'll be comfortable starting with, but I'm excited to get the ball rolling. I'll chuck 50 bucks or so at it a month and by next year I'll have everything I need :)
@@watchrepairtutorials I agree.I am just getting started ,so a hobby for now.But my mind is always thinking .Planning on building a homemade cleaner.I liked your idea of JB welding a shaft on my cleaning basket as you did 👍.
Duuude im just becoming more and more into watch servicing. And seeing the grit in just making things work alternatively and someone like me being able to do as well is really cool. I dont even own any powertools but this just shows solutions are always possible. The hobby seems even more enjoyable since subscribing. Thanks!
Hey Smokey, Yea when you are new or don’t want to spend a lot on equipment, cleaning parts is one of the things you can improvise a little bit. A lot of people start out cleaning by hand and then move up later on to a different system that’s more efficient. Great to have you around brother. 🤘
@@watchrepairtutorials oh yeah, really cool to be learning all these techniques. I will definitely be coming back to this one when I get a good spot going for a watch setup! And its feels good to be apart of your community!
I just bought an old Britix for 30 bucks to practice. I want to practice servicing watches because I love all the process in watch making. I am new and would love to learn and this video is amazing. Thank you for educating people! If you know where I can start learning more pls send some resources my way ❤
I'm just finding your videos a bit late, and I'm slowly making my way through them and taking notes! QUESTION: what is the proper way to dispose of the used cleaning solutions? Thanks!
Well it depends on what it is right. One option that I have used is a 5 gallon steel container to dump used solvent based materials and let them evaporate outside. Other than that anything toxic should be disposed of at a recycling center.
Thank you for sharing your videos Alex. I am a hobbyist for about three years now and started off much in the same way as you describe. Lots of unnecessary purchases especially on parts and donor movements. I already have a slew of balance cocks and wheels from which I mangled each and every hairpsring in an effort to learn how to repair or correct them (too soon to dabble into that, I guess). Some successful barrel and mainspring cleaning and winding. Cleaning and replacement of analog quartz movements have been successful and rewarding, though. Changed batteries on my watch collection and for family members. Basically a beginner at this point. I use an ultrasonic cleaner as I cannot afford to buy a watch cleaning machine and I don't think there are any available in my country (new or pre-owned). That being said, cleaning fluids are also not readily available so I use lighter fluid and alcohol. Your DIY cleaning method is very interesting and I would like to try it. My question is, how long and at what speed to I run the basket? Please forgive the long comment and thank you for your time. More success to you!
Hey Dennis, What country are you in? So the method I showed in the video is really meant to show that there are many different ways to accomplish cleaning watch parts. Some people have taken the idea that I showed and improved on it by using laboratory mixers and hooking up baskets to it. If you have a ultrasonic cleaner, Ineould continue to use that. The spinning action could be used to clear the cleaners and rinses between stages so that you are not transferring as much from one container to another.
@@watchrepairtutorials Hi Alex. Thank you for responding so fast. I live in the Philippines. I'm retired and took up watchmaking as a hobby before the Covid 19 pandemic struck. I saw a video posted by Michael Bolton (Retro and Vintage Watch Restorations) where he serviced a seiko 6119. Exactly the same movement on the watch I have kept since my first job. That started the ball rolling for me. Fast forward to today, I really have been thinking of ways to DIY a cleaning machine but don't have the knack for fabrication and other stuff associated with motors. Your method is more up my alley :). Anyway, I'll take note of your recommendation and stick with my ultrasonic cleaner until cleaners and fluids are locally available here. (Just checked cleaning baskets on eBay and they are pricey! ) I've been watching your videos and enjoy them immensely. On top of that, the lessons learned from your videos are so valuable to me as a hobbyist. Your generosity with your time and knowledge is very much appreciated! Best regards!
@@dbzamora I have a question that maybe you can answer. There seems to be a ton of modded Seiko 7002-7000 watches that come out of the Philippines. Do you know why ?
@@watchrepairtutorials I have no idea but I'll try and find out for you. There are so many local Facebook Seiko/Modding groups here but I am not a member of any of them.
@@watchrepairtutorials what i meant was in the solution when you clean the parts how long do you do a cycle... ive seen some that say with the fancy machines they usually run each cycle for about 4 mins or so.
An interesting budget method. I don't think you mentioned how long each wash/rinse cycle would be for this method. I'm in the UK and have been using an ultrasonic with Essence of Renata for 20 minute cycles, then a IPA rinse. I've also pre-washed in dish soap, but I've found that some steel parts discolour at temperature, so I'm cautious about recommendations elsewhere that say to use 40+ degrees celsius with water/dish soap. I've not tried this mason jar/drill method though. Do you have any thoughts on ultrasonic cleaning?
Ultrasonics are a good option if you get one with some features. I think having a "Sweep" feature is one of the more important one. It helps a lot in the overall effectiveness of the cleaning cycle, helping to eliminate the hot spots and dead zones from the "Standing Waves" A Degasing function is nice as well but not a deal breaker as you can essentially accomplish the same thing by letting your fluid sit a couple hrs in the jar before using it. A machine running 35 kHz to 40 kHz is a good range. Under 30kHz is going to be problematic for more delicate parts The biggest issue with ultrasonics in there is no spin off from one stage to the next. Your rinses get contaminated faster.
I had similar discoloration using simple green cleaner in the ultrasonic. I found out that using too strong ratio of cleaner to water for too long a time caused this. Switching to the simple green pro (purple stuff) and sticking to 1:8 ratio or more eliminated this for me. I read that something about Alkaline aqueous based cleaners causes this.
Thanks, i really enjoyed your video, i learned a lot. i'm trying to figure out how to take apart and clean my grandfather's old Timex automatic watch in an attempt to get it working again
@@leevanwesterborg7805 I’m no expert on tonics, but from what I understand the ones that are riveted together instead of screwed are the problem. What a lot of people will do is that they will clean the entire movement assembled rinse it dry it just like he would do individual watch parts and then lubricate it. It’s not ideal but it’s better than nothing.
@@watchrepairtutorials i saw a video where the entire movement was soaked in lighter fluid and / or paint thinner. this reminded me of when you said soaking the watch parts in naptha would clean them. i am going to try the lighter fluid, in the video he said he had to soak the entire movement for two hours but when he pulled it out the gears were turning and the watch was working again. my old watch is in very bad condition and worth nothing to a collector, i'm going to soak the entire movement and see if i can get something moving inside the watch. i was told the watch was only good for parts and would never work again, i don't care if it never keeps perfect time again, i'd just like to be able to see the hands move around. Thanks for your videos, i really learned a lot and almost understand how these watches work from these videos.
Hi Dennis, Just remember that this is just a starting point for people who are new to the hobby. We will get into more detailed cleaning videos using ultrasonic cleaners but this was really to give people ideas on getting started. Thanks for watching 😀
Awesome video these are very helpful. I have collected 10 HMT watch in that one of them is a 1990 made HMT pilot and the dial is hand loomed and dial is black. I want to clean the dial without disturbing the lume. Please make a video of dial cleaning
I didn't know you've ever posted such a useful video. Hexane is mentioned here too! I would like to purchase the q-tip you recommended. Unfortunately, there is no way to get a sharp q-tip right away in Korea. In addition, I am thinking of purchasing a gas mask for the safety of using hexane these days. It is said to be good for preventing inhalation of alcohol vapor such as ethanol.. I'm not sure it'll work.
one minor question: the IPA is not for 'cleaning' but for 'rinsing', right? Do I have to use hexane if I am trying to clean a small pollution with q-tips?
Did you see that I answered your question from before in my last video? That should help. In this video, I mentioned that I do not clean the pallet, fork, or the balance wheel in my cleaning machine. I clean those in a separate jar of hexane. That is the main purpose for which I use it. This is because it is safe for the shellac on those parts. Too much exposure of IPA and shellac will soften it, causing the pallet stones or the impulse jewel to become loose, which is bad. An alternative to the pointed Q-tips would be surgical swabs. You can search for those through your local channels. IPA can be used as well for precleaning. You do not need a Hexane for that. In the gas bags would be a good idea if you’re concerned about the fumes of stronger solvents like hexane.
Thank you so much for suggesting alternatives. I researched other ones that can easily access in my country.. But I like the one you recommend for the most. I think I have to make international purhase for the better servicing😅
Thanks for the very informative and excellent video. Recently discovered your channel and you are such an excellent teacher and resource and appreciated by many of us pursuing this hobby. Your home made cleaning system is brilliant. Regards, Jeffrey.
I am having trouble with winding mainsprings--I have some vintage winders (pocket and wrist watch) and a Chinese set of winders. So far I am doing this by hand b/c I can't seem to get the winders to work, perhaps because I am misunderstanding the concept. I would love to see a video dedicated to main spring winders. I didn't see one in your video list. Thanks
Hoppes number 9 gun cleaning solvent works excellent. Not to expensive, readily available. Gentle on fine wood stock finishes , yet blasts baked on carbon and grease.
Very glad to have found your channel. Just getting into this hobby, and these instructional videos are invaluable. I have an unused drill press from the 1960s that I'm sure could be a willing participant in watch cleaning!
Hi Alex, really helpful video. Im just getting started and have simple taken apart and put back together a couple old soviet movements but am yet to take the dip into cleaning and lubricating. With this method, when spinning with the drill, how long should i spin for each step? In your video its quite short but i imagine you mightve cut the process for the video. Great vids!
It really just needs to spend for about five minutes. If your brand new just getting started, I would recommend starting off cleaning the parts by hand . A Petri dish, A soft artist brush, your cleaner, rinse and dryer is all you need. Keep it simple . This also gives you the opportunity to inspect the parts for damage as well.
this is a absolute great guide for beginner, may I have a question about can I put watch part in a container and cover these with naphtha then brush those softly instead of use machine? thanks
Here's how you can hand-clean your watch parts using IPA: Gather your materials: You'll need a clean container, 99% IPA, a soft-bristled brush (like a soft artist brush or a dedicated watch cleaning brush), parts dryer. A food dehydrator or hair dryer works fine. Prepare the cleaning solution: Fill the container with enough IPA to fully submerge the parts you want to clean. Petri dish’s work great. Please note that IPA can damage shellac, so you have to limit the exposure on the pallet fork and roller table. Clean the parts: Gently brush the parts with the soft-bristled brush while they are submerged in the IPA. Pay close attention to any areas with visible dirt or grime. Rinse and dry: After brushing, remove the parts from the IPA and put them under the dryer.Condensation will form when there is a significant temperature difference between the metal part and the environment. Make sure all the IPA has evaporated to prevent any condensation from forming. Repeat brush cleaning: It is important that there is no left over lubricants or any other type of residue on the metal parts. Leftover contaminants on steel parts change the surface tension and will affect how well lubrication stays in place. I would recommend a 2nd cleaning in fresh IPA to ensure the parts are spotless. Good luck with your watchmaking
Thanks for the video, Alex! Quick question: I have a gallon of denatured alcohol in the shed. Can I use it as the rinse, rather than 99% IPA? I've disassembled an Ali-X purchased NH36 and am attempting my first service! So appreciate your time and expertise, sir!
Thank you for the kind words and your support for the channel. I’m glad you’re finding the content helpful! Great question regarding the use of denatured alcohol as a rinse. While denatured alcohol can be used as a rinse, I wouldn’t recommend it for servicing. There are a few reasons for this. First, denatured alcohol can contain up to 10% water, which could leave unwanted moisture on the steel parts-something you definitely want to avoid. Another important factor is how alcohols evaporate and the likelihood of condensation . Alcohols evaporate more slowly as their chain length increases methanol evaporates the fastest, followed by denatured alcohol, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol (IPA), propanol, and finally butanol. IPA evaporates more slowly than denatured alcohol, reducing the risk of condensation forming during the drying process. Denatured alcohol’s rapid evaporation can sometimes cause condensation to form faster , increasing the chance of rust if drying isn’t carefully controlled. While both denatured alcohol and 99% IPA can displace water, the concentration of alcohol in each solution plays a significant role in its effectiveness. IPA’s higher purity (99%) makes it better at displacing water and ensuring that no moisture is left behind on the parts. Denatured alcohol, with its variable water content, may not be as effective in this regard, potentially leaving behind residual moisture especially in small area’s For best results, I’d recommend sticking with 99% IPA. It’s more reliable at removing water, evaporates at a safer rate, and will help prevent moisture-related issues. Good luck with your first service, and feel free to reach out if you have any more questions! -Alex
Thanks again for these videos. I have dabbling in watchmaking for a few years now and read several books, watched numerous YT vid's and even a video class. Yet your approach and fantastic tips are so welcoming in this somewhat 'members only' world. Your openness and years long knowledge has given me many ways to improve, corrections that make sense and money saving advice. Thanks again. As a side note, would you recommend joining either the NAWCC or AWCI to an amateur hobbies/part time watchmaker?
Thank you Brian. New watchmakers either get what I’m doing or they don’t just depends on what their goal is. I can’t think of any good reason to really join the NAWCC. On the other hand, I have been a member of the AWCI for quite a while. You do get access to a database of mostly vintage part list for many obscure movements that you would not be able to find elsewhere, but the real value is there archives of their magazine. I think it goes all the way back to the early 70s may be a little bit farther back than that. These magazines will be a wealth of knowledge. The current magazines, although good, typically refer back to articles written during this time. So my vote would be for AWCI.
As for an idea for a video topic, one thing that is always an issue for me is sourcing, finding and ordering parts. Especially older vintage watch and pocket watch parts. An example being I have an 1927 Elgin Grade 291 Pocket Watch and trying to find an escape wheel and balance complete is proving a tough grind. Any thoughts you might have on this topic would be great for this amature.
Hey Graham, As a matter of fact that one is comes g up soon. The next video is servicing an automatic barrel, then how to buy vintage watches for repairing and then sourcing parts. So 3 videos away.
OK, first question. When you talk about ore cleaning the main spring and barrel, around 9:43 in the video, you say to use the "solvent" to clean these parts. Are you referring to the alcohol or one of the other solvents? Thanks, I'm really learning a lot here. Have a great day. -David
Thanks Alex! I have learnt a lot from your video series and really appreciate your effort in making these instructional videos. This payment is just a small gesture of my appreciation. Keep up the good work and I will suppprt your channel whenever I can!
This video is legendary. The pictures from the guy that built his own tool is so cool.
Yea it is. There’s actually been quite a few people that have taken the idea that I show in this video and ran with it.
A video on how you set up your workspace would be awesome
Maybe one day. This channel is dedicated to teaching watch repair. I’m not sure how many of my viewers really care about that.
Alex,
Thank you for this video series. I am in the aftermath of a great reset in my life and I am throwing everything at becoming a watchmaker. Your videos combine my love of watchmaking and mechanics with another love of mine: doing things the right way as inexpensively as possible. You are the Chrisfix of the watch world showing us starting out where to save and exactly what we need to do the job. I love it. I have a considerable chunk of cash to throw at Watchmaking and a small machine shop (for making cases and dials 😀) but every dollar I save lets me get a better cutter or more stock or more supplies, or old watches and clocks to fix! So thank you!
Wow man. I love Chrisfix
Chrisfix is awesome! Great comparison.
He reminds me of Gerry Garcia. I like Gerry
Really,
I never, NEVER thought that i would find the PERFECT TH-cam channel. A year ago i somehow found a passion for old mechanical pocket watches, but i never made any progress except for just disassembling and reassembling them without making any impact on the watch itself. But since i have found this channel i have actually acquired a structured way of learning more about repairs of watches. Btw you know how i stumbled upon your channel? The guy from c spinner watch restoration suggested you. Well - he was right. I cannot stand how absolutely degenerative people of my age watch mr beast or tiktok or som other random shit like that, so guys: go watch this instead. Thank you for your time and hard work to teach us all the magnificent art of watchmaking. 👏🙏❤️
I am loving these no nonsense explanations. Thank you sir, great job as always.
Love ya man. Glad you find them useful.
Absolutely!
You are a master of ingenuity sir! When you busted out the drill I was dying. I gotta give this a shot.
Thanks for the great videos.
Hey man,
This is meant for the budget minded guys out there. Butttt, the basket could also be used in a jar sitting in a Ultrasonic.
When switching from one jar to another, it would enable you to spin off the excess fluid before going into the next jar, extending the life of your rinse solutions. 😀
I'm not knocking it in any way, it was just very unexpected. Especially when you were going over the basket I'm watching thinking what is he gonna do here??... It's a hell of a solution to a common problem. Those old L&R machines are expensive.
@@rickhufnagel6984 no no no, I didn’t think you were. Yea, the old vintage machines seem to be creeping up in price as more people jump in.
I strongly agree with everyone else. These videos are extremely helpful and I cannot thank you enough. I've done alot of research so far, and I mean alot, but your channel is one of the best sources I have found.
If not ---- The very top - one . . . it's certainly in the top 3 !!! & I mean this sincerely ! In the world .
I love how clear you talk. You’re my kind of people
You aiint from Rochester, are you?
No. NC. I just upgraded my camera and audio equipment so hopefully you’ll see some more improvements. Honestly, the main thing is just getting comfortable talking to a camera, which is incredibly hard to do at least for me
@@watchrepairtutorials well you are great and the instructions are clear. I’m replacing a nameless movement in a cheap Rolex copy with a Citizen Miyota 8215 right now and so far so good but the hands from the cheap mechanical Mvmt don’t fit so I’ve ordered new ones. Hoping to get it running
First things first. I worked in a watch , clock repair shop in the mid 70 ' s as a teen. For four years I trained under one of the best watchmakers in town. I still have some basic tools. I'm soon going to be at retardment age. I mean retirement. I'm going to start working on watches again as a hobby. They say great minds think alike. Your cleaning equipment is exactly the same way I want to set up mine. Cleaning watches is very important, yet not quite rocket science. You have a new viewer, follower as of this video. Thank you. Looking forward to more. No pressure.
Awesome to have you, no pressure felt. I am always open to learning something new as well so feel free to chime in.
You are correct, cleaning is not rocket science and you can get there a lot of different ways. There’s only 2 simple rules. They have to be clean and free of residue.
Cleaning machines are a luxury for many and a time saver for me.
Retardment, that’s funny, I don’t care who you are.
Hi! Diane from Florida here! I love your videos I’m learning so much! I love the spinning basket. You are such a McGyver. 🥰❤️🥰 OK I just really aged myself, but I don’t care Im happy 😃
Hey Diane from Florida. I really appreciate hearing from the lady watchmakers out there. I know there’s a bunch, they just don’t make their presence known.
Thank you 😊
You just saved me hundreds of dollars. Thank you
It’s all about sharing the knowledge, it makes the hobby more enjoyable.
Finally, I have an idea of how to clean camera and shutter parts!
Very helpful video - than you for taking the time to make it!
My pleasure!
I'm a huge fan of how straight forward this is. Nice to see a video where someone talks like a real person.
Thanks Wayne, I am getting better at it.
@@watchrepairtutorials I am Setter and Goldsmith, slowly working my way towards watchmaking as well. It's like talking to someone I've worked with for years, explaining a technique I didn't know about.
@@tylerwebster5734 You are awesome man. When you say "Setter" are you referring to setting gen stones.
@@watchrepairtutorials I am, in the NKY/Cincinnati area. Diamonds, gem stones, and so on.
Why did I not find your videos when I started getting into watch repair a few years ago? Thank you for your (watch) service
Oh it's because you just started uploading a year ago 😁 and DUDE, the tip about the cleaning basket and drill is awesome. Definitely going to do that
After 2 years in, are you still cleaning parts by hand?
@@watchrepairtutorials Yes just by hand with brushes. I only touch cheap movements though and I go through them slowly for my own enjoyment, I don't trust myself with anything too expensive yet
@@heavyglassglass kudos for knowing your limit and giving yourself time to develop skills and your knowledge base. The main thing is that it’s fun for you. There’s nothing wrong with working on inexpensive movements. As a matter of fact sometimes I work on $20 Chinese movements just to see if I can improve the performance.
@@watchrepairtutorials yea I'd hate to destroy a nicer piece. The first movement I went through and still wear in a watch occasionally was a Chinese ST36 movement. It works great but man is that thing loud. I'm looking forward to checking out more of your videos to pick up some good tips
You my friend have a very good ability to simplify the process of watch restoration for me,I’m a total beginner,I haven’t repaired a watch yet,I’ve been working on clocks,and soon will be taking on a Waltham pocket watch, once I’ve built my tools and equipment up, thankyou, i can be more comfortable in my journey with videos like these,so I’m set properly to succeed thankyou.
Your clock experience will be a great benefit to you. Let me know if you need anything.
Absolutely the details I am looking for... just starting out to clean my own watches, low-volume, and can't justify machines, etc, yet. THX for doing this video!
Glad to help! You seem to get what I was going for here. There’s much better ways to clean watch parts but when you first starting this is a way to do it without letting the lack of equipment stop you.
I’m in the same boat. Ronsonol/naphtha and IPA with Alex’s cleaning jar setup.
Quick question though - if one were to use the L&R solution (like the L&R ultrasonic #111)….does that stuff work even without the ultrasonic?
You don't find this kind of knowledge throve often...Thank you sir.
So nice of you. Thank you my friend
@@watchrepairtutorials amazing...I wonder how algorithm didn't show me your channel before. Just what I need and I hope they keep coming .
@@0_Ka-Bar_0 It's the Man holding us down. Just kidding. I glad you found us. I have a lot more coming.
You are the man. You make watch repair attainable to everyone.
Thank you, Joseph. This is definitely the harder and more time consuming way but you can effectively clean parts without a machine.
Been collecting since 1980's, went to watch school in 2011. Sold two watch cleaning machines. Prefer hand cleaning. Your method surprised me in a good way. A+++++ on the novel approach especially with regard to making a spinning backet. Many thanks.
Hello Tom,
The purpose of this video is to show someone new that you can literally clean parts by hand and with a little it if ingenuity you can make a some pretty sweet homemade alternatives to expensive machines. Some of the ones my viewers have made are amazing.
This video, like all your others, contains a wealth of information. First, many thanks for the hexane suggestion. The mixed hexane solution is cheap, it evaporates quickly and it’s a great grease solvent. I use it as a final rinse. Second, the spinning basket is another great idea. I use jars with a low-power ultrasonic cleaner with L&R for washes. My basket has a wire handle. I put an electrical spring clip in the chuck of a drill and it’s great for spinning off cleaners before the next bath. Most importantly, you’ve taught us the importance of a thorough clean. I was pretty good before, but now I understand tat I need to take it to another level. Finally, I stay away from IPA for the pallet fork and the balance because it dissolves the shellac holding the jewels in place.
You make my heart sing. Thank you Paul.
Your videos are great. No Nonsense straight talk. Practical information. It is all so helpful, especially when you share ways for someone starting out to save money on tools and necessities. I really look forward to the Bonus tips at the end of your videos. Thank you
I appreciate you Kevin. Let me know if you need anything.👍
Your tutorials are the best on TH-cam. I love your no nonsense approach and your empathy for people like me that are starting out in this hobby and dont have too much money to spend.
Liked and subscribed
Johnny
Thank you for recognizing that. In these beginning videos, they are designed for people who are just starting out. I’ve done all the videos on using ultrasonic machines and I’m even working on one on how to upgrade ultrasonics for even better cleaning. The point of this video is to show you, that machines are not required, but I really more of a convenience than anything else
Awesome presentation! I gotta try my hand at watch repair...once I get my allergies under control. Can't imagine having a beautiful old watch all spread out on the workbench, then an uncontrollable sneeze completely clearing every last part off the table.
That's one reason to use a parts tray Santa. 😊
Alex, I have been in the automotive industry since 1992 and am certified by DuPont as a certified automotive refinisher. I have been into watches for most of my life and out of necessity I have learned how to fix them. The closest one is 3 hours away and he doesn’t have the best reputation. So I figured if I could build NASCAR engines and build a NASCAR Cup car and paint it then I have the skills and mindset to do it. I have come to look at watch making/ repair is a lot like building a engine or painting a vehicle. Preparation is the key. If you want the best possible results then you need to do each and every step properly. Because cutting a corner in any of the 3 things I named can lead to failures. Paint coming off, engine blows, watch runs poorly. Thanks for sharing your knowledge videos like yours are invaluable to someone like me who has taught themselves all the skill’s I have. I can service an automatic day date is the most complicated movement I have done and it’s the most complex I feel really comfortable doing. Would like to find a easier chronograph movement. I hope you are reading my comment because I hope you have a suggestion for which chronograph movement would be the best for a beginner.
First, I read all comments and I appreciate the time you took to write this on. I am a NASCAR and F1 fan myself. I think there is a similar attitude that translates equally between racing at that level and watchmaking. "Everything Matters".
I just watched the 1960 Daytona 500 which started with how Lee Petty started what would become Petty Enterprises. His basic philosophy was to check all the systems over and over, to make sure that nothing would break down during a race. The one thing that eliminated so many cars during a race . Watchmaking is no different. You check your systems in the movement.
Like anything else I recommend starting with a new movement to learn on. The ETA 2894-2 and the Sellita SW500 as well as the Valjoux 7750 are all good movements that are pretty straight forward. Personally I would get a ST1902 for 100 bucks or better yet a watch with that movement in it to learn on before getting into the more expensive ones.
Just found your channel and I am so happy to hear and see the valuable tips and tricks you give.
Thank you so much.
So I am looking forward to service a cheap watch as a first training.
And then try to service my Rolex GMT Master II.
You are so welcome! Good luck
Just to let you know Alex, I'm really enjoying these lessons. (UK)
well, I really appreciate your brother.
Best video I've seen, wish I had it when I started. Still learned new things, thank you.
My pleasure thank you
The baskets were genius. I am just starting to learn the skills for working on watches since I want to work on some old wrist watches and pocket watches.
This is purely a starting point. Eventually you will want to upgrade depending on how many watches you work on.
After getting my hand caught in a table saw, I'm looking for a new hobby : ) I'm a newbie, but you're a great help getting me started.
Are used to do quite a bit of woodworking back in the day and had a couple close calls, but still have all my digits. Anyway, I’m glad you found the channel. Never hesitate to reach out if you need something. -Alex
Thanks again for this video series. it has been the most useful in all aspects of starting watchmaking..
Exactly what I've been looking for. I'm new to the hobby and I knew there must be a way to do this by hand without all the expensive machinery. Thank you for the great video
It's good to have you with us Aaron. This video was really meant as a starting point. Obviously it's more labor and time intensive but you're right the whole point is is that you don't need thousands of dollars of equipment. all you need is a little bit of ingenuity.
Alex,nice hearing ur explanation clearly,learn a lot of things regarding watch repair,im 70 yrs old,retired tech my compony send me for training in switzerland,i.t.f.h.,piaget chopard lot more, much interested in your teaching process,simple n easy
It’s an honor to have you sir.
My goal is to bring information to new watchmakers in a way that’s relatable to them working in there homes, most of who don’t have a mentor or instructor like you did in Neuchâtel.
As you can imagine it is a lot harder to learn what an student learns in a 2 year school with an instructor looking over their back in a home environment.
Great videos, honesty about the cost of things and dropping the f bomb in the first 15 seconds that is epic. We’re going to get along just fine. 😎
LOL.
Thanks!
You are most welcome! Thank You for your support.
Wow. This is the video I've been searching for since 2020. Thanks for all the awesome tips and for giving me hope that I can have good results in this cool hobby without spending thousands of dollars to buy a professional cleaning machine. Cheers from Canada! **SUBSCRIBED**
Well, don welcome. That video is still relevant in a lot of ways but I’m working on a new video right now on how to get the most out of an ultrasonic machine and I’m testing different cleaning products to see how they stack up against each other. Should be interesting.
Awesome video; one of the best yet for a beginner.
Glad it was helpful. This video was really intended for the watchmaker just starting out. I imagine there are a lot of people holding out because they think they have to have a machine.
Got my first set of parts cleaned! Thanks for the tips. And the Liquinox you recommended elsewhere sure seemed to rinse off MUCH easier than like Dawn soap or whatever.
But wow, after the cleaning, it was really obvious how poor my pre-cleaning was! Need to improve that next time.
It works well, which is why they use it in laboratories as well as many other industries.
But now you know that you need to work on your pre-cleaning a little bit that's all.
thanks for sharing your knowledge
I am glad you found it helpful.
Your vidieos give me inspiration, to motivate me into action instead of thinking about watchmaking.I appreciate your time to inspire others.with every detail . You can certainly put it over in other words you're a good teacher. Thanks . Bill
Thank you Mr Hobson. You can do it!!😀
Roughly how long should the parts basket be in the different jars spinning?
Obviously, it would depend on what you’re using as a cleaner and how clean or dirty the parts are, but typically about five minutes would be a good starting point
Great job, excellent videos, the show must go on! Thanks for teaching us.
Thank you brother
Thanks! Great videos! I built a spinner inspired by this video. I soldered a brass rod directly to the brass small parts basket. I’m working on my first watch.
That is awesome! I’d love to see a picture of it.
Thank you for your help
You got it J. D.
I JUST COMPLETED YOUR HOMEMADE PARTS CLEANING BASKET AND IT WORKS GREAT. SAVED ME SEVERAL HUNDRED DOLLARS AND DOES A BETTER JOB THAN I WAS USING LIGHTER FLUID AND A BRUSH.
I ALSO LIKED YOUR VIDEO ON INSTALLATION OF ROLLER JEWELS USING A BROACH TO HOLD THE ROLLER AND LIQUID SHELLAC. I DON'T KNOW WHY PEOPLE STILL DO IT THE OLD WAY WITH DRY SHELLAC.
THANKS!!
Excellent! Thanks Chuck
Alex, thank you very much for this video. I am just now learning the art of watchmaking and it has been a great deal of fun and learning. I enjoyed your video very much, but have a follow-up question. Here is my understanding of the steps you've taught:
1. Pre-clean your components using IPA dispensed from a Menda type dispenser.
2. Spin watch mesh baskets with watch components in solvent (IPA)
3. Dry spin
4. first rinse in first IPA
5. Dry spin
6. Second rinse in second jar of IPA
7. Dry spin
8. Third rinse in third jar of IPA
9. Dry using dehydrator
I feel as though I have missed something here as I wonder whether I should be rinsing in distilled water. Am I only using IPA as the pre-cleaning, final-cleaning and rinse agent? Would it be better to use Hexane as the final-cleaning solvent as it won't dissolve shellac?
Can you please assist.
Thanks again. Really appreciate your content!
Kind Regards,
Daniel
When you’re looking at a low budget option for cleaning watch parts, you can begin in precleaning with either napatha or IPA. I would do a first wash cycle in Napatha followed by two rinse cycles of IPA. Water rinses are you with detergents solvent base cleaners. Then you can follow up with drying at a temp around 100 F .
Just remember that IPA will dissolve or at the very least loosen shellacked jewels. Removing oils from pallet stones can be done with hexane or one dip. A cheaper alternative for the shellacked parts would be CRC electronics cleaners. Which is basically the same ingredients as what’s in one dip. Just be careful when using hexane or one dip type cleaners and make sure you have ventilation and limit exposure.
Thank you Alex, that answers my question perfectly.@@watchrepairtutorials
Hi Alex, Another great tip. I was about to order 1 Dip when I saw this post saying CRC is a low budget alternative to 1 Dip.
I already have here both the CRC electronic cleaner and the CRC brake cleaner. which one is better to use to clean the hairspring?
Thanks @@watchrepairtutorials
@@franklima1269 both are good. The main ingredient is tetrachloroethylene same as One dip.
I would just spray some in a small jelly jar, and then use that to dip, the balance wheel and pallet fork into it. Just like any cleaner of this type you’ll want to have pretty good ventilation because it does stink.
Thank you Alex. I spray the CRC electronics cleaner in a small glass vial, put the balance wheel in and closed the lid. I could see some bubbles coming out of the balance wheel, which got concerned for a while but I think it was just gases been released because the liquid was under pressure inside the spray can.@@watchrepairtutorials
I'm glad I discovered your channel. I've been interested in watches and clocks for decades and want to learn how to repair them. There was a watchmaker around the turn of the century that allowed me to hang out at his shop and glean some knowledge, but life had different plans and threw some fast and consecutive curve balls at me. I'm ready to get back to it.
Welcome aboard Greg. Hope to see you again. Let me know if I can help
@@watchrepairtutorials thanks, Alex. I'll be sticking around.
What can I say. That have not been expressed already.
You are very good. And any one.( And I think there is a lot )people like to do watch repair as a hobby. And for that reason I say.thank you
And we ALL NEED YOU!!!!
Thank you so much 😀
Hi Alex,
Thank you for your video. I am starting to learn everything about watchmaking but have yet to disassemble, clean, and reassemble a watch.
Hello Wai,
If you start with my first videos and watch them one at a time, practice what’s in the video it will teach you the basics and you can build your knowledge on step at a time.
I use the ST36 movement which is a great place to start.
Let me know how I can help you.
Hi Alex, thanks for the video. Great bonus tip. Thanks! I use IPA 99%, as a degreaser, but not on the pallet fork and balance because of the schelac.
IPA can be somewhat effective, just not as much as hexane.
I am working on a video right now about the use of IPA on shellacked parts that may be helpful to you.
Thank you Alex for this info. I understand that alcohol is not recommended for balance and pallet fork cleaning because of the shellac but why not lighter fluid? How does it affect the hair spring? It would be nice to have some information/video dedicated to balance and pallet fork cleaning. There are many opinions out there.
Thank you
I’ll do it.
There’s a big difference between the napatha used in professional cleaners and the napatha you buy at the store.
Mainly the amount of impurities in it.
These impurities are left behind On the spring, and can attract dust and dirt to the hairspring.
Put a drop of your napatha.on a piece of glass and let it dry and see what’s left behind.
@@watchrepairtutorials
Thanks, I did notice some residue after the lighter fluid dries out but I thought that it was dirt that did not clean properly.
Thank you for your help
Hi Alex, thank you very much for all of your helpful videos!
I am using a 5 step washing cycle: After pre cleaning all parts (excluding the pallet fork and the balance) in IPA, I inspect them after drying under my microscope. The next step is putting the parts in a heated water filled ultrasonic cleaner using a submerged jar filled with an ammonium based cleaning solution (Elma Red 1:9). The parts are collected in small brass baskets which are put into a bigger basket for easier and faster handling. That's the first step in my ultrasonic machine. The next step is letting the parts dry for a couple of moments before putting them into the first and second rinsing fluid (all in my ultrasonic). I use destilled water. The final rinsing solution is 99.9% IPA. Since all liquids are always heated to about 45 °C, there should not be any problem with condensation from the surrounding air. I let it dry and sort all parts for assembly.
Now to the interesting part: the pallet fork an balance. Since IPA dissolves shellac I avoid putting them into IPA. They are being cleaned in the first cleaning solution (Elma Red) an rinsed twice in destilled water. In the final step I take them out of the baskets and put them in a separate short bath in IPA to displace any water. After drying I dip them in Bergeon B-Dip (One-Dip) and let them dry again.
Do you see any room of improvement in my cleaning process?
I was thinking about rinsing parts in only IPA since I am worried that using destilled water could lead to oxidation and rust... But IPA dissolves shellac... Lighter fluid is also an option, but here in my country I find it quite difficult to find lighter fluid without any additives that could left residues...
What do you think?
Looking forward to your response! Thank you Alex :)
Well, your process is pretty tight and I don’t know if I would change anything if you’re getting good results. The only possible suggestion if it’s an option is to use deionized water which is a purer form. There is additional cost and the purity level is slight so I don’t really know if it’s really necessary.
Hi, which solution do you use for first and second rinsing cycles?
@@sergiohegner8844 Hi, I use 2 jars of clean destilled water for the two rinsing steps.
So simple and practical! It would be useful to know why you shouldn't put the balance in the naphta. Thanks so much!
Off-the-shelf napatha, will have varying degrees of impurities in it. As long as you can get it residue free, then it would be fine. Any leftover residue in jewel holes or end stones or the hairspring will lower the service life of the work you did.
Great video, just what a lot of amateurs like me need need to know -Thanks
Glad it was helpful Richard. Thats exactly who it was mad for.
I was about to buy a $200 Lab stirrer to run at 1/10 it's potential speed and not even be able to reverse the spin. I already have a drill and some J-B Weld. Going to try without the copper wire so I can sand it down to look pretty.
Sounds good. Let me know how it turns out. I will say that you can find lab stirrers for way less than 200 bucks.
Alex thank you for these extremely useful tips. You are the hero of all of us DIY watch tinkerers!
You are MY hero Pieter. Let me know if there is any video's you need.
Your face when you turned on the drill was priceless!
As peg wood - I see little manicure sticks called orange wood sticks. They're used to clean under nails, tidy up the polish on cuticles, etc. I can't see why they wouldn't be good for this purpose?
Peg wood is pretty soft and goes into the jewel hole easily with minimal pressure applied. Many people have tried using tooth picks and all sorts of stuff, but as soon as they move a jewel out of place its back to peg wood
Alex: I put together the basket / jar method and am really happy with how it worked. I got an 1/8" steel rod and some JBWeld from Home Depot and modified the basket like you suggested and it worked great. Thanks for the information and the excellent explanations.
Nice work Mike. I’m glad the video gave you some inspiration.
Great video, thanks! I am new to watchmaking and maintenance and am in the process of gathering the necessary tools. I have a number of watches that now require maintenance and that easily costs about €400-500 per watch. And because I find watchmaking very fascinating, I prefer to invest in knowledge and materials. I was already worried about cleaning parts because, especially as a beginner, I am not going to buy an expensive cleaner and probably never will. Your basket and jar system is great! I love good DIY solutions!
If you see the value in investing in knowledge, you may want to consider joining my watchmaking course. It’ll cost way less than screwing up just one of those watches. Here’s some more information.
watchrepairtutorials.com/watchmaker-course/
@@watchrepairtutorials Of course I won't use my expensive watches to practice on 😉. There are inexpensive training watches to practice on. But I'm definitely considering an online course. I'm going to read up and watch videos, build up my arsenal of tools, and maybe I'll get back to you.
Another great lesson. I have the Pearl watch cleaning machine so no McGiver for me. Bought the Q Tips….good advice
Yep I run I zenith for jar spinner but I’ve been using my ultrasonic more and more. Getting great results with Elba Red 1.9
Thanks for these wonderful tips. I have binged watched the series. You have given me some great new insights into amateur watch repair esp. when it comes to saving money (hexane, menda bottles, etc.). I have though about the drill-basket technique before but never tried it. Now I use paint brushes, pith wood, lighter fluid, and 99% alcohol, and air dry. It seems to work, but the food dehydrator or hair dryer move might be next. I have already dressed my tweezers and screw drivers per your instructions--huge difference. Well done and thanks, again.
That’s what I love to hear. Thanks for sharing that. Awesome
Good video! I like the idea of being somewhat self-reliant!
This is OK when you’re first starting out but most people get tired of hand cleaning parts and want something a little more efficient. It really just depends on how many watches you work on during a month.
Great video. Everyone else seems to assume people have a watch cleaning machine. Love the drill idea.
It’s an option, especially if you are new to the game and don’t want to hand clean every single part and screw. Long term you may want to explore soMe kind of machine but this will definitely get the job done.
Hey man, I appreciate you watching and hope you follow along.
Well done, Alex! Thank you for sharing your expertise!
My pleasure! Regards to Rusty.🤙
Hi Alex…
Your content and delivery is perfect for this hobbyist!
Just a quickie…if liquinox leaves no residue, can one skip the water rinse before the IPA protocol?
Thanks once again. Greetings from leafy Surrey in the UK.
TonyG
It doesn't leave a residue if it's rinsed. So just like I showed, you can rinse it under the faucet and then do a second with ipa, then dry above room temperature. No short cuts
I'm watching a bunch of videos to get a list together. I don't have a lot of money but I want to get into this hobby thanks to you and a couple other watchmakers on TH-cam. I had this drill idea when trying to figure out how I'd clean movements without an expensive machine, and I'm stoked to see it was recommended. Looking like it'll take several months to slowly put together a set of equipment I'll be comfortable starting with, but I'm excited to get the ball rolling. I'll chuck 50 bucks or so at it a month and by next year I'll have everything I need :)
Go for it man.
Thanks for the video.I like cheap.(economical) ways of doing things.I like the trick for the spinning basket used on drill.
It’s one method for cleaning when starting out but it will get old if you start doing a fair amount of projects.
@@watchrepairtutorials I agree.I am just getting started ,so a hobby for now.But my mind is always thinking .Planning on building a homemade cleaner.I liked your idea of JB welding a shaft on my cleaning basket as you did 👍.
Duuude im just becoming more and more into watch servicing. And seeing the grit in just making things work alternatively and someone like me being able to do as well is really cool.
I dont even own any powertools but this just shows solutions are always possible. The hobby seems even more enjoyable since subscribing.
Thanks!
Hey Smokey,
Yea when you are new or don’t want to spend a lot on equipment, cleaning parts is one of the things you can improvise a little bit.
A lot of people start out cleaning by hand and then move up later on to a different system that’s more efficient.
Great to have you around brother. 🤘
@@watchrepairtutorials oh yeah, really cool to be learning all these techniques. I will definitely be coming back to this one when I get a good spot going for a watch setup!
And its feels good to be apart of your community!
I just bought an old Britix for 30 bucks to practice. I want to practice servicing watches because I love all the process in watch making. I am new and would love to learn and this video is amazing. Thank you for educating people! If you know where I can start learning more pls send some resources my way ❤
Well you can start on this playlist and go through it. It was made for the beginner.
I'm just finding your videos a bit late, and I'm slowly making my way through them and taking notes! QUESTION: what is the proper way to dispose of the used cleaning solutions? Thanks!
Well it depends on what it is right. One option that I have used is a 5 gallon steel container to dump used solvent based materials and let them evaporate outside.
Other than that anything toxic should be disposed of at a recycling center.
Thanks!
I know it's just the camera angle, and things closer to the camera look bigger... but I always think that those hangs are the hands of a GIGANT!
Camera work is ongoing learning process.
Thank you for sharing your videos Alex. I am a hobbyist for about three years now and started off much in the same way as you describe. Lots of unnecessary purchases especially on parts and donor movements. I already have a slew of balance cocks and wheels from which I mangled each and every hairpsring in an effort to learn how to repair or correct them (too soon to dabble into that, I guess). Some successful barrel and mainspring cleaning and winding. Cleaning and replacement of analog quartz movements have been successful and rewarding, though. Changed batteries on my watch collection and for family members. Basically a beginner at this point. I use an ultrasonic cleaner as I cannot afford to buy a watch cleaning machine and I don't think there are any available in my country (new or pre-owned). That being said, cleaning fluids are also not readily available so I use lighter fluid and alcohol. Your DIY cleaning method is very interesting and I would like to try it. My question is, how long and at what speed to I run the basket? Please forgive the long comment and thank you for your time. More success to you!
Hey Dennis,
What country are you in?
So the method I showed in the video is really meant to show that there are many different ways to accomplish cleaning watch parts.
Some people have taken the idea that I showed and improved on it by using laboratory mixers and hooking up baskets to it.
If you have a ultrasonic cleaner, Ineould continue to use that. The spinning action could be used to clear the cleaners and rinses between stages so that you are not transferring as much from one container to another.
@@watchrepairtutorials Thanks for responding so quickly Alex. I live in the Philippines. Watches have fascinated me since childhood.
@@watchrepairtutorials Hi Alex. Thank you for responding so fast. I live in the Philippines. I'm retired and took up watchmaking as a hobby before the Covid 19 pandemic struck. I saw a video posted by Michael Bolton (Retro and Vintage Watch Restorations) where he serviced a seiko 6119. Exactly the same movement on the watch I have kept since my first job. That started the ball rolling for me. Fast forward to today, I really have been thinking of ways to DIY a cleaning machine but don't have the knack for fabrication and other stuff associated with motors. Your method is more up my alley :). Anyway, I'll take note of your recommendation and stick with my ultrasonic cleaner until cleaners and fluids are locally available here. (Just checked cleaning baskets on eBay and they are pricey! ) I've been watching your videos and enjoy them immensely. On top of that, the lessons learned from your videos are so valuable to me as a hobbyist. Your generosity with your time and knowledge is very much appreciated! Best regards!
@@dbzamora I have a question that maybe you can answer.
There seems to be a ton of modded Seiko 7002-7000 watches that come out of the Philippines. Do you know why ?
@@watchrepairtutorials I have no idea but I'll try and find out for you. There are so many local Facebook Seiko/Modding groups here but I am not a member of any of them.
Sir, how long would you spin the parts and dry the parts at the end? like spin them for 4 mins or so? or more? thanks
Well, the spinning of the parts is just to get rid of the bulk of the liquid off the parts. You still want to dry the parts with low heat.
@@watchrepairtutorials what i meant was in the solution when you clean the parts how long do you do a cycle... ive seen some that say with the fancy machines they usually run each cycle for about 4 mins or so.
@@gillandro2 yes, about 5 minutes should be fine depending on what you are using. Oh course inspect how clean everything is after they are dry
@@watchrepairtutorials thank you sir.... now i just have to watch your lesson on jewel replacement :)
@@watchrepairtutorials do you dilute the cleaning solution like the bottle says? Or do you leave it as a concentrate? Thank you.
Awesome video. Someone should make and sell one of those drill baskets!
That’s a good point. I bet you could sell them
Great thanks for the cleaning video - the trick with the basket and the drilling machine is just insanely cool. Once again great thanks!
It’s just a starting point my friend. I hope you learned something from the video
@@watchrepairtutorials definitely, keep doing what you are doing, this is just awesome. Respect!
An interesting budget method. I don't think you mentioned how long each wash/rinse cycle would be for this method.
I'm in the UK and have been using an ultrasonic with Essence of Renata for 20 minute cycles, then a IPA rinse. I've also pre-washed in dish soap, but I've found that some steel parts discolour at temperature, so I'm cautious about recommendations elsewhere that say to use 40+ degrees celsius with water/dish soap. I've not tried this mason jar/drill method though. Do you have any thoughts on ultrasonic cleaning?
Ultrasonics are a good option if you get one with some features.
I think having a "Sweep" feature is one of the more important one. It helps a lot in the overall effectiveness of the cleaning cycle, helping to eliminate the hot spots and dead zones from the "Standing Waves"
A Degasing function is nice as well but not a deal breaker as you can essentially accomplish the same thing by letting your fluid sit a couple hrs in the jar before using it.
A machine running 35 kHz to 40 kHz is a good range. Under 30kHz is going to be problematic for more delicate parts
The biggest issue with ultrasonics in there is no spin off from one stage to the next. Your rinses get contaminated faster.
I had similar discoloration using simple green cleaner in the ultrasonic. I found out that using too strong ratio of cleaner to water for too long a time caused this. Switching to the simple green pro (purple stuff) and sticking to 1:8 ratio or more eliminated this for me. I read that something about Alkaline aqueous based cleaners causes this.
@@johnhannon That's good to know. Thanks. It's more than possible I've been heavy handed with the ratio.
@@mrkrsl_ I found that information from auto parts restorers sites. They had trouble with parts turning black after ultrasonic cleaning.
Thanks, i really enjoyed your video, i learned a lot. i'm trying to figure out how to take apart and clean my grandfather's old Timex automatic watch in an attempt to get it working again
Some of the old Timex watches were never meant to be taken apart and fixed so keep that in mind.
@@watchrepairtutorials How do i tell the difference, if its one that can't be fixed?
@@leevanwesterborg7805 I’m no expert on tonics, but from what I understand the ones that are riveted together instead of screwed are the problem.
What a lot of people will do is that they will clean the entire movement assembled rinse it dry it just like he would do individual watch parts and then lubricate it. It’s not ideal but it’s better than nothing.
@@watchrepairtutorials i saw a video where the entire movement was soaked in lighter fluid and / or paint thinner. this reminded me of when you said soaking the watch parts in naptha would clean them. i am going to try the lighter fluid, in the video he said he had to soak the entire movement for two hours but when he pulled it out the gears were turning and the watch was working again. my old watch is in very bad condition and worth nothing to a collector, i'm going to soak the entire movement and see if i can get something moving inside the watch. i was told the watch was only good for parts and would never work again, i don't care if it never keeps perfect time again, i'd just like to be able to see the hands move around. Thanks for your videos, i really learned a lot and almost understand how these watches work from these videos.
One of the best videos and explanations for that topic!!! I’m super happy! Thanks a lot for your informations and your advices! Real helpful!!
Hi Dennis,
Just remember that this is just a starting point for people who are new to the hobby.
We will get into more detailed cleaning videos using ultrasonic cleaners but this was really to give people ideas on getting started.
Thanks for watching 😀
Awesome video these are very helpful.
I have collected 10 HMT watch in that one of them is a 1990 made HMT pilot and the dial is hand loomed and dial is black.
I want to clean the dial without disturbing the lume. Please make a video of dial cleaning
Dial cleaning is very limited. You basically can only use a Q-tip dampened with deionized water. Black is the worst color to clean.
@@watchrepairtutorials Thankyou for the reply through.
I didn't know you've ever posted such a useful video. Hexane is mentioned here too! I would like to purchase the q-tip you recommended. Unfortunately, there is no way to get a sharp q-tip right away in Korea. In addition, I am thinking of purchasing a gas mask for the safety of using hexane these days. It is said to be good for preventing inhalation of alcohol vapor such as ethanol.. I'm not sure it'll work.
one minor question: the IPA is not for 'cleaning' but for 'rinsing', right? Do I have to use hexane if I am trying to clean a small pollution with q-tips?
Did you see that I answered your question from before in my last video?
That should help.
In this video, I mentioned that I do not clean the pallet, fork, or the balance wheel in my cleaning machine.
I clean those in a separate jar of hexane. That is the main purpose for which I use it. This is because it is safe for the shellac on those parts.
Too much exposure of IPA and shellac will soften it, causing the pallet stones or the impulse jewel to become loose, which is bad.
An alternative to the pointed Q-tips would be surgical swabs. You can search for those through your local channels.
IPA can be used as well for precleaning. You do not need a Hexane for that.
In the gas bags would be a good idea if you’re concerned about the fumes of stronger solvents like hexane.
Thank you so much for suggesting alternatives. I researched other ones that can easily access in my country.. But I like the one you recommend for the most. I think I have to make international purhase for the better servicing😅
Thanks for the very informative and excellent video. Recently discovered your channel and you are such an excellent teacher and resource and appreciated by many of us pursuing this hobby. Your home made cleaning system is brilliant. Regards, Jeffrey.
Thank you Jeffrey. I just did the ultrasonic video not long ago which you also might find interesting.
th-cam.com/video/z-SGm-nhGt8/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for the video, the tips and insights are helpful. Your Drill idea is cool as.
Thanks for watching Francis.
I am having trouble with winding mainsprings--I have some vintage winders (pocket and wrist watch) and a Chinese set of winders. So far I am doing this by hand b/c I can't seem to get the winders to work, perhaps because I am misunderstanding the concept. I would love to see a video dedicated to main spring winders. I didn't see one in your video list. Thanks
See if this helps.
th-cam.com/video/gAn9icM0n30/w-d-xo.html
@@watchrepairtutorials Thanks
Hoppes number 9 gun cleaning solvent works excellent. Not to expensive, readily available. Gentle on fine wood stock finishes , yet blasts baked on carbon and grease.
I don’t know anything about it, but it makes me nervous when I can’t find a pH level on a cleaner
Very glad to have found your channel. Just getting into this hobby, and these instructional videos are invaluable. I have an unused drill press from the 1960s that I'm sure could be a willing participant in watch cleaning!
Welcome aboard Nathan.
Hi Alex, really helpful video. Im just getting started and have simple taken apart and put back together a couple old soviet movements but am yet to take the dip into cleaning and lubricating.
With this method, when spinning with the drill, how long should i spin for each step? In your video its quite short but i imagine you mightve cut the process for the video.
Great vids!
It really just needs to spend for about five minutes.
If your brand new just getting started, I would recommend starting off cleaning the parts by hand . A Petri dish, A soft artist brush, your cleaner, rinse and dryer is all you need.
Keep it simple . This also gives you the opportunity to inspect the parts for damage as well.
this is a absolute great guide for beginner, may I have a question about can I put watch part in a container and cover these with naphtha then brush those softly instead of use machine? thanks
Here's how you can hand-clean your watch parts using IPA:
Gather your materials: You'll need a clean container, 99% IPA, a soft-bristled brush (like a soft artist brush or a dedicated watch cleaning brush), parts dryer. A food dehydrator or hair dryer works fine.
Prepare the cleaning solution: Fill the container with enough IPA to fully submerge the parts you want to clean. Petri dish’s work great. Please note that IPA can damage shellac, so you have to limit the exposure on the pallet fork and roller table.
Clean the parts: Gently brush the parts with the soft-bristled brush while they are submerged in the IPA. Pay close attention to any areas with visible dirt or grime.
Rinse and dry: After brushing, remove the parts from the IPA and put them under the dryer.Condensation will form when there is a significant temperature difference between the metal part and the environment. Make sure all the IPA has evaporated to prevent any condensation from forming.
Repeat brush cleaning: It is important that there is no left over lubricants or any other type of residue on the metal parts. Leftover contaminants on steel parts change the surface tension and will affect how well lubrication stays in place. I would recommend a 2nd cleaning in fresh IPA to ensure the parts are spotless.
Good luck with your watchmaking
@@watchrepairtutorials appreciate
Excellent explanation
Remember this is just a starting point. Thanks Mike
Thank you.. You are a gentleman.. Go on your lessons.. We wait for all new
Thank you my friend
Thanks for the video, Alex! Quick question: I have a gallon of denatured alcohol in the shed. Can I use it as the rinse, rather than 99% IPA? I've disassembled an Ali-X purchased NH36 and am attempting my first service! So appreciate your time and expertise, sir!
Thank you for the kind words and your support for the channel. I’m glad you’re finding the content helpful! Great question regarding the use of denatured alcohol as a rinse.
While denatured alcohol can be used as a rinse, I wouldn’t recommend it for servicing. There are a few reasons for this. First, denatured alcohol can contain up to 10% water, which could leave unwanted moisture on the steel parts-something you definitely want to avoid.
Another important factor is how alcohols evaporate and the likelihood of condensation . Alcohols evaporate more slowly as their chain length increases methanol evaporates the fastest, followed by denatured alcohol, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol (IPA), propanol, and finally butanol. IPA evaporates more slowly than denatured alcohol, reducing the risk of condensation forming during the drying process. Denatured alcohol’s rapid evaporation can sometimes cause condensation to form faster , increasing the chance of rust if drying isn’t carefully controlled.
While both denatured alcohol and 99% IPA can displace water, the concentration of alcohol in each solution plays a significant role in its effectiveness. IPA’s higher purity (99%) makes it better at displacing water and ensuring that no moisture is left behind on the parts. Denatured alcohol, with its variable water content, may not be as effective in this regard, potentially leaving behind residual moisture especially in small area’s
For best results, I’d recommend sticking with 99% IPA. It’s more reliable at removing water, evaporates at a safer rate, and will help prevent moisture-related issues. Good luck with your first service, and feel free to reach out if you have any more questions!
-Alex
Thanks again for these videos. I have dabbling in watchmaking for a few years now and read several books, watched numerous YT vid's and even a video class. Yet your approach and fantastic tips are so welcoming in this somewhat 'members only' world. Your openness and years long knowledge has given me many ways to improve, corrections that make sense and money saving advice. Thanks again. As a side note, would you recommend joining either the NAWCC or AWCI to an amateur hobbies/part time watchmaker?
Thank you Brian. New watchmakers either get what I’m doing or they don’t just depends on what their goal is. I can’t think of any good reason to really join the NAWCC. On the other hand, I have been a member of the AWCI for quite a while.
You do get access to a database of mostly vintage part list for many obscure movements that you would not be able to find elsewhere, but the real value is there archives of their magazine. I think it goes all the way back to the early 70s may be a little bit farther back than that. These magazines will be a wealth of knowledge. The current magazines, although good, typically refer back to articles written during this time. So my vote would be for AWCI.
So. Much. GREAT. Info!! Thank you!!!
You are so welcome!
Loving your intro series here its so helpful
Alex, I love your videos!!! So well explained and straight forward. Where are you located?
North Carolina
You re the best on youtube love from algeria bro ❤❤❤
Algeria? I love it man. Greetings brother
As for an idea for a video topic, one thing that is always an issue for me is sourcing, finding and ordering parts. Especially older vintage watch and pocket watch parts. An example being I have an 1927 Elgin Grade 291 Pocket Watch and trying to find an escape wheel and balance complete is proving a tough grind. Any thoughts you might have on this topic would be great for this amature.
Hey Graham,
As a matter of fact that one is comes g up soon. The next video is servicing an automatic barrel, then how to buy vintage watches for repairing and then sourcing parts.
So 3 videos away.
@@watchrepairtutorials Outstanding. Thank you!
7:54 i was wondering will ipa really eat away at the shellac that is used for watch jewels?
The answer to your question.
th-cam.com/video/x_6TulURYII/w-d-xo.html
OK, first question. When you talk about ore cleaning the main spring and barrel, around 9:43 in the video, you say to use the "solvent" to clean these parts. Are you referring to the alcohol or one of the other solvents? Thanks, I'm really learning a lot here. Have a great day. -David
I typically use Hexane for precleaning but IPA works fine too.
@@watchrepairtutorials Cool, thanks.
Thanks for this video, very helpful
You're welcome Tomy
Thanks Alex! I have learnt a lot from your video series and really appreciate your effort in making these instructional videos. This payment is just a small gesture of my appreciation. Keep up the good work and I will suppprt your channel whenever I can!
Everything is appreciated Vincent. I could be making videos and shooting for a million views but these types of videos are what’s missing.