I know this is an older video but how do you distinguish if silver is 800 to pure 999 from the 18k test. I have some hand poured bars I bought but not marked they test a milky sky blue.
Yes you can recover gold plated and silver plated! (Reverse electroplating) Also, when the acid turns the gold scratches red, it indicates it is a couple carots shy of the acids purity level! So if 18k turns red, it is less than 18k and more than 14k!
Thank you so much for your excellent tutorial as I'm just getting started in precious metals and was scared to death of trying the testing procedures. I feel much more confident now thanks to your great advice and know how video, I'm so glad you posted this I'm a Fan forever ! Take care and thank you very warmly again .
Very helpful video thank you! But how would you test jewelry you don't want messed up with scratches? And what happens if you scratch someone's jewelry but decide you don't want to buy it? Does it become a break it/bought it situation?
I mean, I get it, but when did percent start being x out of a thousand and not 100? Also, 10:13 - Been watching a few videos on this now and I want to thank you for being the first person to mention how to clean off the scratch stone.
Under a minute in, he suggests buying gold and silver as they are reaching their peak prices. Seriously intelligent investment advice, coming from someone who already owns and would be interested in selling.
@@SilverpickerGonna disagree with the magnet test because magnetism is not a reliable test. Even when testing silver: Silver is generally thought of as non-magnetic, but can have a very weak magnetism. Not all stainless steels are magnetic. Both facts that can make the magnet test probably the worst option.
@@matthewdavis9437 11 years of experience here. We use the magnet test first to weed out the obvious fake stuff but it does not solidify truth. Copper is often used to *fake* silver, it is not magnetic. Regardless if it is the "worst" way to test, it is still extremely helpful in the beginning stages of testing and you can never be too safe when buying and selling precious metals. Also silver is not magnetic, in fact it is the opposite. It tends to have Magnetic repulsion aka pushing the magnet away. In larger forms like bars or bullion, even flatware it is a lot more apparent.
Great video everything was very well explained. I do have one critique though I've been refining gold and Siler for a while now and you can absolutely recover the gold from gold plate/filled jewelry.
For one thing, if there were no hallmark on it I would test with the lower number acid and work up, like when you tested the "junk" chain you started with 14K and it ate it away, but because you knew it was fake you didn't test further, but not knowing if it was fake you would then have to test it further. Why not save on solutions and start with 10K? Because if it ate it away there would be no reason to go further. But starting high, you would then test it again with lower solution etc...
The problem with these test kits is that the silver testing solutions have a very short shelf life. Unless you are a pawnshop and can afford it, spending $30-$40 to replace the silver testing solution every year is too prohibitive. And sometimes as the silver testing solution gets older, the results can be inconclusive. so there is no exact expiry date. Fortunately there is a less expensive way. As it turns out, 18K gold testing solution, which has a much longer shelf life, will always reveal the presence in an alloy of silver by producing a silver precipitate (silver chloride from the HCl in the dilute aqua regia solution). When the solution is added during the test, the silver dissolves and the precipitate forms, that at first is blue and then turns white. 22k gold testing solutions also are a dilute aqua regia solution but will not produce the precipitate and will simply dissolve the silver without leaving a trace. As for determining purity, I have found that pressing down hard and producing a single streak on the stone, then adding the 18K solution, the silver chloride precipitate line will be thicker as the purity of the silver rises
Just wanted to add i think this channel is a pretty great thing, i often need to look up refining etcetera videos after i watched this i though "yes yes yes I must subscribe" Funny thing is when I scrolled to the button I was subscribed already (assuming from same thing happening on other video(s) ) thank you for providing me valuable information for my future business (fingers crossed)
Thanks man. I came here to see the 18k trick, I have a bunch of pieces turning light blue with 18k and thought it was nickel brass. They're also turning black with 24k solution so I'm confident it's Ag now.
Thanks for explaining this so we'll. I bought my testing kit a long while ago but haven't used it because ( main reason: I'm a professional procrastinator 😜) I wasn't exactly sure how to use it. Good information delivered in an easy to retain format. Thanks!
[0:11] 📈 Gold and silver prices are soaring, making it crucial to be able to verify the authenticity of precious metals before buying or selling. [1:04] 🛠 A scratch stone and testing acids are essential tools for testing gold and silver at home, costing less than $20 for a kit. [2:04] 🤔 Understanding the composition and purity of gold and silver jewelry is key to effective testing. [4:49] 💼 Real gold starts from 10 karat and higher, while sterling silver is typically marked with "925," indicating 92.5% silver content. [7:15] ⚠ Handling testing acids requires extreme caution as they can cause serious harm if mishandled. [9:56] 🔍 Testing gold involves scratching the metal on a stone and applying the appropriate testing acid to determine its purity. [15:24] 🔄 Silver can be tested using 18 karat gold testing solution, which should turn the metal a beautiful sky blue color to indicate its authenticity. [18:09] ✅ Testing gold and silver at home is straightforward but requires practice and caution due to the dangers of handling testing acids.
I know this is late but i thought it might help other figure out why as well. When testing silver with gold testing acids, the 18k acid is the only one that interacts with silver in a specific way. I always assumed it was because of the strength of acid, but i could be wrong i suppose. (i will be trying 22k acid on silver to see if it reacts as well) The way that silver reacts is specific and should be the easiest way to tell if real. The only problem ive seen is it only gets the surface of the item. Which is usually fine, copper comes through pretty easy on most scratches for me. BUT There are 3x or 4x plated items that the scratch would not get down to if there isnt enough pressure applied in which case i would suggest; 1. Scratch with intention, meaning hard and solid samples on the stone 2. Look at the scratches and see if some of it goes away but there are lines left over. That is an indication of plating in my eyes. Source: Me :) 11 years of experience as a precious metal dealer. Edit; 22k does not react with silver the same way 18k does. Confirming it is NOT acid strength.
On the topic of identifying fake silver: when I first started stacking, one item I bought was a "1 Troy Oz. .999 Silver 100 Mills Bar". Being new to the hobby, I had no idea what "100 Mills" referred to and happily shelled out $20 for the bar (about $3-$4 over spot at the time). As it turns out, "100 Mills" refers to the thickness of a silver *layer* coated over another base metal (e.g. copper). In other words, it's a worthless piece of silver-plated junk with maybe a few cents' worth of actual silver in it. I don't know if you've brought attention to it in any of your other videos, but it not I would love if you did a video on it to help new stackers know what to avoid.
I believe I've talked about it in some older videos that focused on silver cutlery but I should probably do a revised version soon. Thanks for the comment!
@@Silverpicker Thanks for the reply! Since you're knowledgeable on this, I have a follow-up question I was hoping you could answer: I picked up a Hamilton Mint 1 troy oz. silver bar from a pawn shop earlier today, and I'm a little suspicious of it. I have a neodymium magnet now and it appears to pass the magnetic test (the magnet moves slowly, whereas when I use it on the fake I mentioned in my first comment it plummets right away), but it weighs 32 grams instead of 31 (the bar which I know is fake comes in at 29 grams). But it's also gold-plated, which makes me wonder if that affects its weight at all. And it *does* have a serial number along the side, which seems to support the possibly of it being legit. Should it weighing 32 grams raise alarm bells for me, or are there reasons why that might not be cause for concern? EDIT: Google tells me that gold-plated silver has layers of nickel and copper between the gold and silver, which I'm sure is the reason for the extra weight now. Still, could be another good thing to educate people about!
I was having a slightly hard time paying attention watching the acid run towards your hand. Otherwise best explanation I’ve seen! Sharing with jewelry friends!
I understand you use sterling silver it rubs off on that stone pretty nicely, I found some silver, this silver seems harder than sterling I melted this out of a rock myself, using map gas
So what happens with a silver-plated piece, that you have done a nice deep scratch with, and you test it with 18k acid? Would you get a mix of the sky blue and some other color for the base metal? Thanks for this great video.
How do you tell the silver quality level? Like you've shown coins that are less than 90% silver and while a coin can be looked up, if there's no tag on the necklace or candlestick, how do you know that it's fine silver versus a lower amount? Video suggestion that I've been hitting others with - with silver prices climbing, what is the price that would inspire you to dump a good chunk of your stash to make some profit. How much of purely stash silver would you dump and what type - bars and bullion only, government silver and/or Eagles, Kooks and any other "coin" without a numismatic value? Secondary note - haven't seen an announcement from you or the folks who interviewed you on who won the gold?
Hey Sean, thanks for the recommendations! I'm definitely going to do a silver strategy video. In terms of silver purity, it's not super easy to tell with the test I show. Theoretically that matters, but in all the years I've been doing this, the assumption is that its 925. When I sell it, the buyers use the same test and always pay me as though it's 925. The Tundra contest will end at the end of this month and I'll announce the winners on Instagram!
You definitely could, but this is the best method for scrap. If you buy any pre-owned jewelry from a jewelry store you can bet that it's been acid tested. You can usually buff out any test marks also
Mr. Silverpicker, Very good tutorial indeed. Also can you be kind enough to tell me how to prepare 14k 18k 20k 22k test solutions using Nitric acid. I tried hard and couldn't get these solutions in my country India. Thanks in advance. From HV Patil
You cleaned your stone with steel wool you said. I've heard about sand paper 320 grit too. Is that necessary or is it better than just rubbing 22k acid everywhere? Also which acid is stronger: 22k or platinum?
I know rhis video is old but what is the process for testing white gold? Also what happens if something you bought is maybe stainless steel? Does the acid not take away the scratch no matter what acid you use? Thanks SP!
I’m new to the acidic testing. I have an item marked 5TCSIL or 5TGSIL; it tested positive for both silver and 10k. Any thoughts about this? Have you seen a Hallmark like that before? Thanks.
Great info. I have a testing kit that included a neutralizer but I noticed you dont use it.. What is your opinion on using an acid neutralizer between tests and use a clean wipe for each test? Does it matter?
No. The other metals they usually use with silver would still be non-magnetic like copper, brass, and nickel. They don’t use a steel alloy so it’s likely fake if attracted to a magnet.
I just bought 1958-1964 US proof sets in cellophane wrap, how shall I check these to make sure they arent fake? (p.S all 7 sets cost about 260$ combined after tax.)
I don't wish to be a nuisance, but, help me again, to understand. Please... Say for example the 10k gold (bracelet) what could be the other metal that could be under the 10k gold?
Not a nuisance at all! If it's a solid 10k bracelet, there wouldn't be anything "under" the gold. The 10k, which contains 41.67% gold is melted together with other metals (like copper or nickel) to create an "alloy" (metal mixture). So it's not plated, like an "EPNS" or "gold filled" item
Hi. I bought gold from craiglist and used your video and product from link to test them and it was fake.... where should i report them? To police department or somewhere else? Thanks
How can you be totally sure the acids are produced to the exact karat rating? Also if you’re selling your scrap jewelry an unscrupulous dealer could put 10 karat acid in a bottle marked 14 or 18 and when they tested your jewelry say “see it’s not as high a karat as it is it marked” and pay you less.
You should file it down a bit to get closer to the center of the item. Things are also only really gold plated with 24k gold. They can't really gold plate with lower purities
So I tested a piece that I think is gold. Put the 14K acid on it and it completely disappeared. Then I put the 10K acid on it and it did not disappear until I wiped the stone with paper towel and it completely disappeared. ???
is there any other metal that will pass the 14karat gold acid i have a ring thats not marked but it passes the 14karat acid and to me the metal is kinda hard. There is no reaction when i pour it on the ring or discoloration. I am selling it as gold but i just wanted your opinion.
I really only deal in gold and silver. When I have the opportunity to buy a diamond, I send them to my partner who does that. Maybe when I learn more about diamonds I'll make such a video. Thanks for the suggestion!
I bought a kit for testing silver and it has only 1 bottle of acid. It says it works for all gold and silver. The bottle however is all in Mandarin so I can’t read it. Will it actually work for silver, do you think? (It’s a common kit on eBay and Amazon, it’s the one with a glass bottle and green cap). Thanks for any info! ☺️
Best Acid Testing Kit: amzn.to/2Fo2TJt
I know this is an older video but how do you distinguish if silver is 800 to pure 999 from the 18k test. I have some hand poured bars I bought but not marked they test a milky sky blue.
does this go for copper also?
or is copper a different animal?
@ silverpicker, Acid testing isn't coming up on Amazon from your link.
I’ve been doing this for years! You explained it better than I could ever do, and it is reassuring knowing that at least someone else is doing it too!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Yes you can recover gold plated and silver plated! (Reverse electroplating) Also, when the acid turns the gold scratches red, it indicates it is a couple carots shy of the acids purity level! So if 18k turns red, it is less than 18k and more than 14k!
Lol, thanks man.
"If you get this on your eyes, there are no second chances" seriously threw me off completely🤣🤣🤣
Yep lol
Yet he wears no gloves.
I like how you talk about safety with the acids while having hands covered in blisters ;)
Those are calluses from rock climbing lol
@@Silverpicker A real man would know that :) j/k @MD
Thank you so much for your excellent tutorial as I'm just getting started in precious metals and was scared to death of trying the testing procedures. I feel much more confident now thanks to your great advice and know how video, I'm so glad you posted this I'm a Fan forever ! Take care and thank you very warmly again .
Very helpful video thank you! But how would you test jewelry you don't want messed up with scratches? And what happens if you scratch someone's jewelry but decide you don't want to buy it? Does it become a break it/bought it situation?
I mean, I get it, but when did percent start being x out of a thousand and not 100?
Also, 10:13 - Been watching a few videos on this now and I want to thank you for being the first person to mention how to clean off the scratch stone.
Under a minute in, he suggests buying gold and silver as they are reaching their peak prices. Seriously intelligent investment advice, coming from someone who already owns and would be interested in selling.
Since when is buying when they’re reaching their peak prices good advice? It’s precisely the wrong advice, lol.
Gold’s not at it’s peak xD thanks to inflation
@@Teed227 boi if he only knew what it is today back when he made this comment lol
Wow, this is a great tutorial. You make it look easy.
Thaaaaaank you!
I worked in a pawn shop and tested gold that way but also had a loop to check out the markings also
Yep, add a magnet into the mix and you've got a nearly foolproof method! Thanks for the pawn shop perspective!
@@SilverpickerGonna disagree with the magnet test because magnetism is not a reliable test.
Even when testing silver:
Silver is generally thought of as non-magnetic, but can have a very weak magnetism.
Not all stainless steels are magnetic.
Both facts that can make the magnet test probably the worst option.
@@matthewdavis9437 11 years of experience here.
We use the magnet test first to weed out the obvious fake stuff but it does not solidify truth. Copper is often used to *fake* silver, it is not magnetic. Regardless if it is the "worst" way to test, it is still extremely helpful in the beginning stages of testing and you can never be too safe when buying and selling precious metals.
Also silver is not magnetic, in fact it is the opposite. It tends to have Magnetic repulsion aka pushing the magnet away. In larger forms like bars or bullion, even flatware it is a lot more apparent.
Thank you you have helped me a lot I no what to do with the testing kit many thanks
Great video everything was very well explained. I do have one critique though I've been refining gold and Siler for a while now and you can absolutely recover the gold from gold plate/filled jewelry.
15:57 Im so confused at the “which is” in the middle of him talking 😂
Whoops! Editing error :)
Also, I would have loved to see a demonstration on how to test a fancy chain that you wouldn’t want to ruin. Maybe another video in the future?
Great suggestion!
Thank you! I've been trying to figure out the silver testing acid for a while now. Thanks for making it easy.
My pleasure!!
For one thing, if there were no hallmark on it I would test with the lower number acid and work up, like when you tested the "junk" chain you started with 14K and it ate it away, but because you knew it was fake you didn't test further, but not knowing if it was fake you would then have to test it further. Why not save on solutions and start with 10K? Because if it ate it away there would be no reason to go further. But starting high, you would then test it again with lower solution etc...
The problem with these test kits is that the silver testing solutions have a very short shelf life. Unless you are a pawnshop and can afford it, spending $30-$40 to replace the silver testing solution every year is too prohibitive. And sometimes as the silver testing solution gets older, the results can be inconclusive. so there is no exact expiry date. Fortunately there is a less expensive way. As it turns out, 18K gold testing solution, which has a much longer shelf life, will always reveal the presence in an alloy of silver by producing a silver precipitate (silver chloride from the HCl in the dilute aqua regia solution). When the solution is added during the test, the silver dissolves and the precipitate forms, that at first is blue and then turns white. 22k gold testing solutions also are a dilute aqua regia solution but will not produce the precipitate and will simply dissolve the silver without leaving a trace. As for determining purity, I have found that pressing down hard and producing a single streak on the stone, then adding the 18K solution, the silver chloride precipitate line will be thicker as the purity of the silver rises
Just wanted to add i think this channel is a pretty great thing, i often need to look up refining etcetera videos after i watched this i though "yes yes yes I must subscribe"
Funny thing is when I scrolled to the button I was subscribed already (assuming from same thing happening on other video(s) ) thank you for providing me valuable information for my future business (fingers crossed)
Thanks man. I came here to see the 18k trick, I have a bunch of pieces turning light blue with 18k and thought it was nickel brass. They're also turning black with 24k solution so I'm confident it's Ag now.
I have peaces that are turning blue aswell, some even turn like a milky color..what does this mean?
@@jordanrogers2752 light blue with 18k solution is an indication of Silver being present
Thanks for explaining this so we'll. I bought my testing kit a long while ago but haven't used it because ( main reason: I'm a professional procrastinator 😜) I wasn't exactly sure how to use it.
Good information delivered in an easy to retain format. Thanks!
Thankyou so so helpful!!! You are a great teacher.
[0:11] 📈 Gold and silver prices are soaring, making it crucial to be able to verify the authenticity of precious metals before buying or selling.
[1:04] 🛠 A scratch stone and testing acids are essential tools for testing gold and silver at home, costing less than $20 for a kit.
[2:04] 🤔 Understanding the composition and purity of gold and silver jewelry is key to effective testing.
[4:49] 💼 Real gold starts from 10 karat and higher, while sterling silver is typically marked with "925," indicating 92.5% silver content.
[7:15] ⚠ Handling testing acids requires extreme caution as they can cause serious harm if mishandled.
[9:56] 🔍 Testing gold involves scratching the metal on a stone and applying the appropriate testing acid to determine its purity.
[15:24] 🔄 Silver can be tested using 18 karat gold testing solution, which should turn the metal a beautiful sky blue color to indicate its authenticity.
[18:09] ✅ Testing gold and silver at home is straightforward but requires practice and caution due to the dangers of handling testing acids.
I now understand how to carry out simple testing of gold and silver
Glad to hear it!
Thanks for making this video. But how come the 18kt is better to test the silver with than the silver testing solution itself?
I know this is late but i thought it might help other figure out why as well.
When testing silver with gold testing acids, the 18k acid is the only one that interacts with silver in a specific way. I always assumed it was because of the strength of acid, but i could be wrong i suppose. (i will be trying 22k acid on silver to see if it reacts as well)
The way that silver reacts is specific and should be the easiest way to tell if real. The only problem ive seen is it only gets the surface of the item. Which is usually fine, copper comes through pretty easy on most scratches for me.
BUT
There are 3x or 4x plated items that the scratch would not get down to if there isnt enough pressure applied in which case i would suggest;
1. Scratch with intention, meaning hard and solid samples on the stone
2. Look at the scratches and see if some of it goes away but there are lines left over. That is an indication of plating in my eyes.
Source: Me :) 11 years of experience as a precious metal dealer.
Edit; 22k does not react with silver the same way 18k does. Confirming it is NOT acid strength.
Very honest explanation. I love it.
Assume everything is fake until you have verified it on point 👉 👍
On the topic of identifying fake silver: when I first started stacking, one item I bought was a "1 Troy Oz. .999 Silver 100 Mills Bar". Being new to the hobby, I had no idea what "100 Mills" referred to and happily shelled out $20 for the bar (about $3-$4 over spot at the time). As it turns out, "100 Mills" refers to the thickness of a silver *layer* coated over another base metal (e.g. copper). In other words, it's a worthless piece of silver-plated junk with maybe a few cents' worth of actual silver in it. I don't know if you've brought attention to it in any of your other videos, but it not I would love if you did a video on it to help new stackers know what to avoid.
I believe I've talked about it in some older videos that focused on silver cutlery but I should probably do a revised version soon. Thanks for the comment!
@@Silverpicker Thanks for the reply! Since you're knowledgeable on this, I have a follow-up question I was hoping you could answer: I picked up a Hamilton Mint 1 troy oz. silver bar from a pawn shop earlier today, and I'm a little suspicious of it. I have a neodymium magnet now and it appears to pass the magnetic test (the magnet moves slowly, whereas when I use it on the fake I mentioned in my first comment it plummets right away), but it weighs 32 grams instead of 31 (the bar which I know is fake comes in at 29 grams). But it's also gold-plated, which makes me wonder if that affects its weight at all. And it *does* have a serial number along the side, which seems to support the possibly of it being legit.
Should it weighing 32 grams raise alarm bells for me, or are there reasons why that might not be cause for concern? EDIT: Google tells me that gold-plated silver has layers of nickel and copper between the gold and silver, which I'm sure is the reason for the extra weight now. Still, could be another good thing to educate people about!
Thanks, very educational and useful. Do test acids have a shelf life?
Technically yes, but I have been using the same bottles for years and they work perfectly fine.
Thank you. I did learn unfortunately I purchased what was supposed of been over 15g 18k men's ring. It was fake😢
I was having a slightly hard time paying attention watching the acid run towards your hand.
Otherwise best explanation I’ve seen! Sharing with jewelry friends!
Lol glad you enjoyed! Thanks for sharing!
What does it mean if the lines for 14k gold fade quite a lot and turn redish?
It means is not 14k .. it might be 10k or 12k
This was a great explanation, Silverpicker! Thank you for sharing 🤗🖤💙🖤❕
I understand you use sterling silver it rubs off on that stone pretty nicely, I found some silver, this silver seems harder than sterling I melted this out of a rock myself, using map gas
Thank you! I did tested my Silver yess is Silver!! Thank you again for the tip 🎃
How do you know if is gold plated?
Should file my piece till I hit the middle so I can acid test?
Thank you!
Very well explained and extremely useful!
Subbed and liked:)
Wish I would have found your videos before I bought my kit lol
clear info,bro,thanks for educating me
My pleasure! Glad you enjoyed!
So what happens with a silver-plated piece, that you have done a nice deep scratch with, and you test it with 18k acid? Would you get a mix of the sky blue and some other color for the base metal? Thanks for this great video.
Usually you would see it start to bubble, sizzle, and smoke
And by the way, great video! I am getting closer. Thank You!
How do you tell the silver quality level? Like you've shown coins that are less than 90% silver and while a coin can be looked up, if there's no tag on the necklace or candlestick, how do you know that it's fine silver versus a lower amount?
Video suggestion that I've been hitting others with - with silver prices climbing, what is the price that would inspire you to dump a good chunk of your stash to make some profit. How much of purely stash silver would you dump and what type - bars and bullion only, government silver and/or Eagles, Kooks and any other "coin" without a numismatic value?
Secondary note - haven't seen an announcement from you or the folks who interviewed you on who won the gold?
Hey Sean, thanks for the recommendations! I'm definitely going to do a silver strategy video. In terms of silver purity, it's not super easy to tell with the test I show. Theoretically that matters, but in all the years I've been doing this, the assumption is that its 925. When I sell it, the buyers use the same test and always pay me as though it's 925. The Tundra contest will end at the end of this month and I'll announce the winners on Instagram!
Is there no way to do it with a spectrometer or something... I hate the idea of scuffing up something.
You definitely could, but this is the best method for scrap. If you buy any pre-owned jewelry from a jewelry store you can bet that it's been acid tested. You can usually buff out any test marks also
Can you please answer me: will the dark brown stain from testing come off silver jewelry piece? Or is it permanently stained?
Mr. Silverpicker,
Very good tutorial indeed.
Also can you be kind enough to tell me how to prepare 14k 18k 20k 22k test solutions using Nitric acid. I tried hard and couldn't get these solutions in my country India. Thanks in advance. From HV Patil
Great explanation! Thank You,.
What about the recycled E gold or gold bars with metal in the center
You cleaned your stone with steel wool you said. I've heard about sand paper 320 grit too. Is that necessary or is it better than just rubbing 22k acid everywhere? Also which acid is stronger: 22k or platinum?
Makes no difference as far as I know. Anything that gets the stone clean lol
I know rhis video is old but what is the process for testing white gold? Also what happens if something you bought is maybe stainless steel? Does the acid not take away the scratch no matter what acid you use? Thanks SP!
Works exactly the same with white gold, rose gold, or any other color of gold :)
Good job bro .very clear .
Glad you enjoyed!
I’m new to the acidic testing. I have an item marked 5TCSIL or 5TGSIL; it tested positive for both silver and 10k. Any thoughts about this? Have you seen a Hallmark like that before? Thanks.
Great info. I have a testing kit that included a neutralizer but I noticed you dont use it.. What is your opinion on using an acid neutralizer between tests and use a clean wipe for each test? Does it matter?
I basically just wash off the stone when it's full. Neutralizer is not necessary
Thanks for the instruction! Good video:)
Excellent info well understandable thanks
Can you wash the testing stone with water?
Hi, if you leave the acid on the 10k line will it eventually disappear? Is there a certain amount of time that passes will the line will disappear?
I do not think so. I believe the acid is simply not strong enough to eat away at it at all
Awesome video thumbs up 💯
thank you very much
ok if I want to make gold test solutions .. what are the ratios of solution ingredients??
Money (75%) + Amazon.com (25%)
Awesome. Thank you.
So I would assume a magnet picking up a chain doesn’t always mean its fake since 14K is mixed with other metals
No. The other metals they usually use with silver would still be non-magnetic like copper, brass, and nickel. They don’t use a steel alloy so it’s likely fake if attracted to a magnet.
That shirt is pretty cool
Thanks! It's my design :) teespring.com/es/stores/silverpicker
Very good Video new Subbie and starting to learn more. I purchased acid Testing kit 3 years do these expire? Thanks
Thanks for the sub! As far as I know they do not expire. I've kept them for years as well and they work fine.
Quick question here in Australia, we have usually 9 or 18k . So those acids will not work with the 9k?
The 10k Will still probably work. Might lighten up the line a bit, but will still likely work
Thanks for the tutorial get info
How do you know the price of the gold
Very informative, as usual! Thanks very much!
So glad you enjoyed it!!
What kind of stone do u use?
Thank you so much!
thank you
I just bought 1958-1964 US proof sets in cellophane wrap, how shall I check these to make sure they arent fake? (p.S all 7 sets cost about 260$ combined after tax.)
I'd suggest taking them to a local coin store or posting pictures on a coin forum like cointalk.com
Kit says that I need to use a neutralizer for all the gold. Do I need to do that each time ??
I don't ever use it, though if you have it it's handy
What about plated gold what happens when adding acid
I don't wish to be a nuisance, but, help me again, to understand. Please... Say for example the 10k gold (bracelet) what could be the other metal that could be under the 10k gold?
Not a nuisance at all! If it's a solid 10k bracelet, there wouldn't be anything "under" the gold. The 10k, which contains 41.67% gold is melted together with other metals (like copper or nickel) to create an "alloy" (metal mixture). So it's not plated, like an "EPNS" or "gold filled" item
Hi. I bought gold from craiglist and used your video and product from link to test them and it was fake.... where should i report them? To police department or somewhere else?
Thanks
Unfortunately there's nobody really to report it to that will do anything. You can try the police
I had some concerns over some silver coins one of which is a modern Marvel comics Black Panther coin that doesn't pass the "Ping" test.
I’m impressed
Thanks Darcy!
Help me to understand, silver is at around $26.00 right now. How is it rising fast. I have noticed it at around the same price for weeks now.
Hmmm, strange? Where are you getting your info? Check reputable bullion sites.
I think you may have been looking at incorrect info. In March it was $12...
How can you be totally sure the acids are produced to the exact karat rating? Also if you’re selling your scrap jewelry an unscrupulous dealer could put 10 karat acid in a bottle marked 14 or 18 and when they tested your jewelry say “see it’s not as high a karat as it is it marked” and pay you less.
Theoretically possible, but you can also just buy your own acid kit for like $10
Great education video...thanks!!!
Thanks Patrick!!
well done
What about if you happen to be scratching something is gold plated with either 14 or 18 karat gold?
You should file it down a bit to get closer to the center of the item. Things are also only really gold plated with 24k gold. They can't really gold plate with lower purities
So I tested a piece that I think is gold. Put the 14K acid on it and it completely disappeared. Then I put the 10K acid on it and it did not disappear until I wiped the stone with paper towel and it completely disappeared. ???
Does the 18k solution work for 50 percent silver aswell?
It should!
Sweet vid. I'd wear gloves and glasses.
What if my 18k gold bracelet fades, but doesn’t fade entirely? I can still see a slight outline of the scratch
It means that it’s likely a bit lower than 18k
Is there any reason that a sterling silver lobster clasp would have a mild magnetic reaction?
it could be the spring inside the clasp that is not made of gold, and it's reacted to magnet.
@@devinasamantha thank you!
Gold purity measured in carrots, got it.
Karats.
What happens if you test silver with 10k or 14k acid?
is there any other metal that will pass the 14karat gold acid i have a ring thats not marked but it passes the 14karat acid and to me the metal is kinda hard. There is no reaction when i pour it on the ring or discoloration. I am selling it as gold but i just wanted your opinion.
What happens if you use 10k or 14k on silver
great knowledge...Thanks
Thanks Dan!
Concerning your silver statement, please tell ppl that if the item is gold color and has 3 numbers, it’s gold. Look up the conversions online. 👍🏼
I wish your kit came with a gem tester. Could or would you test gems please.
I really only deal in gold and silver. When I have the opportunity to buy a diamond, I send them to my partner who does that. Maybe when I learn more about diamonds I'll make such a video. Thanks for the suggestion!
How do you test a ring without scratching it?
You can use an XRF spectrometer
Thank you.
You're welcome!
I like your t shirt bro
@Silverpicker what happens if the jewelry is gold filled? Is it the same reaction as plated?
Yes, essentially the same thing
@@Silverpicker thank you 😊
How do you test coins
Why does when I test my silver with 18k 22k and platinum they all test positive?
I bought a kit for testing silver and it has only 1 bottle of acid. It says it works for all gold and silver. The bottle however is all in Mandarin so I can’t read it. Will it actually work for silver, do you think? (It’s a common kit on eBay and Amazon, it’s the one with a glass bottle and green cap). Thanks for any info! ☺️
I'm not familiar with anything like that. 18k gold testing solution works for silver too, but it's very limited for testing gold (only 18k and above)
I did a test with 9 ct acid on a chain and it went red can anyone tell me why thanks