"... any high rev or rev dominant player, who finds it hard to control the backend motions on cliffed house shots, is going to fall in love with this Rattler NU" - That's all I needed to hear... I'll be picking one up as soon as possible.
@@BowlingBuckosh @BowlingBuckosh I ended up going with a more control layout. 5" pin to pap, 2" pin to COG (per the Troublemaker layout tool), which was 100x5x64. Tried it out today, and did well with it. Had to play straighter that expected, mostly due to the house shot being wrecked by open play. Once I got outside enough to find a little friction, the ball picked up earlier than my Xray and Pathogen Plague Solid urethane. The Xray was useless on the carry down. The Rattler NU was a few feet earlier, and what I would call aggressively smooth than the PPSU.... meaning it doesn't make as fast of a move, but covers more boards than you would expect from how smooth it comes off the spot. Can't wait to try it on the actual fresh league shot. I expect it'll let me play about 5 boards deeper than my PPSU... so I can switch to the NU when that ball gets into flat 7 territory. If I were to give layout advice, I'd say use the Troublemaker layout tool, and treat the NU like a reactive ball. It took well to a weaker layout, when a normal urethane would've puked with the layout I used. No need to slap the standard strong urethane layout on the NU to get it to react correctly. Use the layout to fine tune the reaction like you would on a reactive ball.
@@deadpolymers3416 for most players i would recommend a neutral-to-strong pin-CoG for NU covers, but i'm glad this motion is working for you. i know your rev rate and lack of oil volume are a unique situation.
@@BowlingBuckosh 2 weeks of league (throwing it 5 of 6 games), as well as maybe 5 or 6 full games of practice and I'm loving the ball reaction so far. The 5x2 layout I used was a bit too smooth out of the box, but as it lane shines it's getting better and better. Like NU Blue, the Rattle NU with lane shine is a bit more clean and a little stronger off the back end. If I drilled it again, I might go with a shorter pin to pap, to get more flare out of it, but I really like the shorter Pin to COG. This is a must have ball for those high rev bowlers who want a smoother alternative to reactive balls.
Thank you for replying and sharing your knowledge. All though we lost MO Pinel so early, I and so many others have you to follow. Mahalo Michael 808OGG
My NU Blue is my favorite ball! If I knew radical was going to release a rattler with the NU cover I would have held off 😂 Radical killed it with both balls!
Definitely an option! Since NU is so early and smooth, it's likely that you'd take a step in with reactive when you change. If the shot has a lot in the middle you might even consider balling up when you step in.
knowing nothing about your game or your house shot, it's very difficult to advise. for higher pattern volumes, higher speeds or lower rev rates, i like the Hitter. For more friction, lower speed bowlers, or higher rev rates i would say something like the Breakaway.
My Rattler NU is arriving Tuesday. I drill my own stuff, and for urethane I usually go 4x30... which is a strong layout for me. 2H, lefty, 400ish rpm, 14.5-15 mph the monitor (down lane speed) low tilt, low to moderate rotation. Does the Rattler need that strong urethane layout? Or is it going to be accepting to different layouts like the NU Blue seems to be? The Rattler core numbers are similar to the IQ 78/U, and I hear a lot of reports warning about not using those typical strong urethane layouts on that ball. So the question is should I go with my typical urethane layout of 4x30, or go with my more typical reactive layout of 5-5.5x30 layout?
5" pin-PAP should be sufficient; without your PAP i don't know how far from the grip center (CoG) the pin is with a 30 VAL angle. the pin-CoG distance is the critical distance to control flare potential for no-thumb bowlers. 30 VAL is usually a medium-high pin-CoG number, but it varies PAP to PAP. we recommend the range of 1.5" (absolute weakest) to 5.5" (absolute strongest) pin-CoG distances.
My Pap is 6” straight over when I’m up the back, and 5.5” over by 1/2” up when I get around it. I tend to prefer around 4-5” COG distances. 5x4x5 is my favorite 2LS layout for reactive solids.
Max Bias is a really strong candidate for this. Any of the stronger sanded asyms such as Hitter or og Outer Limits would also be ok depending on the strength you are looking for.
"... any high rev or rev dominant player, who finds it hard to control the backend motions on cliffed house shots, is going to fall in love with this Rattler NU" - That's all I needed to hear... I'll be picking one up as soon as possible.
cool, keep us posted about how it goes!
@@BowlingBuckosh @BowlingBuckosh I ended up going with a more control layout. 5" pin to pap, 2" pin to COG (per the Troublemaker layout tool), which was 100x5x64. Tried it out today, and did well with it. Had to play straighter that expected, mostly due to the house shot being wrecked by open play. Once I got outside enough to find a little friction, the ball picked up earlier than my Xray and Pathogen Plague Solid urethane. The Xray was useless on the carry down. The Rattler NU was a few feet earlier, and what I would call aggressively smooth than the PPSU.... meaning it doesn't make as fast of a move, but covers more boards than you would expect from how smooth it comes off the spot. Can't wait to try it on the actual fresh league shot. I expect it'll let me play about 5 boards deeper than my PPSU... so I can switch to the NU when that ball gets into flat 7 territory. If I were to give layout advice, I'd say use the Troublemaker layout tool, and treat the NU like a reactive ball. It took well to a weaker layout, when a normal urethane would've puked with the layout I used. No need to slap the standard strong urethane layout on the NU to get it to react correctly. Use the layout to fine tune the reaction like you would on a reactive ball.
@@deadpolymers3416 for most players i would recommend a neutral-to-strong pin-CoG for NU covers, but i'm glad this motion is working for you. i know your rev rate and lack of oil volume are a unique situation.
@@BowlingBuckosh 2 weeks of league (throwing it 5 of 6 games), as well as maybe 5 or 6 full games of practice and I'm loving the ball reaction so far. The 5x2 layout I used was a bit too smooth out of the box, but as it lane shines it's getting better and better. Like NU Blue, the Rattle NU with lane shine is a bit more clean and a little stronger off the back end. If I drilled it again, I might go with a shorter pin to pap, to get more flare out of it, but I really like the shorter Pin to COG. This is a must have ball for those high rev bowlers who want a smoother alternative to reactive balls.
Love the shirt. Love the Nu.
Thank you for replying and sharing your knowledge. All though we lost MO Pinel so early, I and so many others have you to follow. Mahalo Michael 808OGG
Excellent information, thank you
Thanks for the reply !
My NU Blue is my favorite ball! If I knew radical was going to release a rattler with the NU cover I would have held off 😂 Radical killed it with both balls!
you can drill Rattler NU stronger and more use surface for a step up if you choose!
@@BowlingBuckosh very tempting 😂
Mahalo Bryan for all the excellent videos. Would the Deadly Rattler be the ball I go to when the Rattler NU starts to hook early? Mahalo Michael
Definitely an option! Since NU is so early and smooth, it's likely that you'd take a step in with reactive when you change. If the shot has a lot in the middle you might even consider balling up when you step in.
What Radical Ball do you recommend for your typical house shot as I typically bowl on? Regards Bruce
knowing nothing about your game or your house shot, it's very difficult to advise. for higher pattern volumes, higher speeds or lower rev rates, i like the Hitter. For more friction, lower speed bowlers, or higher rev rates i would say something like the Breakaway.
My Rattler NU is arriving Tuesday. I drill my own stuff, and for urethane I usually go 4x30... which is a strong layout for me. 2H, lefty, 400ish rpm, 14.5-15 mph the monitor (down lane speed) low tilt, low to moderate rotation. Does the Rattler need that strong urethane layout? Or is it going to be accepting to different layouts like the NU Blue seems to be? The Rattler core numbers are similar to the IQ 78/U, and I hear a lot of reports warning about not using those typical strong urethane layouts on that ball. So the question is should I go with my typical urethane layout of 4x30, or go with my more typical reactive layout of 5-5.5x30 layout?
5" pin-PAP should be sufficient; without your PAP i don't know how far from the grip center (CoG) the pin is with a 30 VAL angle. the pin-CoG distance is the critical distance to control flare potential for no-thumb bowlers. 30 VAL is usually a medium-high pin-CoG number, but it varies PAP to PAP. we recommend the range of 1.5" (absolute weakest) to 5.5" (absolute strongest) pin-CoG distances.
My Pap is 6” straight over when I’m up the back, and 5.5” over by 1/2” up when I get around it. I tend to prefer around 4-5” COG distances. 5x4x5 is my favorite 2LS layout for reactive solids.
then 30 is a good VAL approximator for 4.5" 👍. on syms i would go with a long drill angle like 85 to get the CG in line with the CoG for our designs.
Hey Brian can you talk to brunsnick and Phil about getting me on staff with radical? it has been my goal but they keep blowing me off. Thank you!
your best bet is to be engaged with your local pro shop and local staffers. there are very few staff positions available at a regional/national level.
Radical doesn’t do a lot of staff positions from what I understand. They talk about it on the weekly podcast occasionally.
What ball in the radical lineup is best suited for a short pin layout?
Max Bias is a really strong candidate for this. Any of the stronger sanded asyms such as Hitter or og Outer Limits would also be ok depending on the strength you are looking for.
is the nu cover a sanded pearl
NU cover has some pearl in it but it is NOT a standard reactive base. it's built on a completely different chemistry platform.