Thanks for the inspiration. I have previously repaired the temp sensor wiring on my v2, but hadn't thought about rerouting the wiring all together. Pinches are gone and I know that I won't have any more trouble with this.
Would you mind putting a parts list in the details section? I noticed i was pausing and taking notes of what you used. Great video! My thermistor went out just like you said!
Very good. Thanks for this. I need to do this but would probably be to nervous if I hadn't seen you do it step by step. I will order the bits and let you know how I get on in a couple of weeks time. All the best from the U.K.
I squeeze a layer of clear silicon I (the "pure silicon") caulk and then smear it into a layer, then set a heavy book or something on it to bond mine...not only does it glue it down but also helps it insulate a bit more...the cork will end up sagging if it is not glued to the base otherwise Very cool mod...would LOVE to have a one of those Monoprice Select Mini printers!
I considered gluing the cork on, but decided against it in case I had to replace the thermistor. My cork does can not sag due to several factors. The MPSM has a relatively small bed. I use fairly thick cork cut flat and not off a roll. The Kapton tap fully encases the cork leaving no room to sag even if it wanted to. I do not know if these tricks will work on larger build plates however.
toys in the attic Great video. I have to do this to mine because the bed heat is intermittent. First time I have seen a soldering iron with LEDs for lighting. BTW: A Thermistor does not have polarity so it does not mater which wire you connect to it.
hey dude - it's been two years since you posted this awesome fix to the problem with these printers - any chance you can post a parts list? I'm getting ready to watch the video and try to create a comprehensive list but an official one from you would be great. Thanks for creating and posting this video - it's exactly the kind of fix I was hoping for.
The maker of the video hasn't responded to requests for a parts list - it's very basic - 2 18" pieces of 18AWG high flex wire - one red and one black. 18" of 18-24 gauge speaker wire. Shrink wrap for some of the wires, 2 rubber grommets to fit the holes drilled for the new wire path - The bottom side of the bed plate was already insulated on my MP select and I simply left it and didn't do any of the kapton tape/cork board steps in the video. The hardest part of the process for me was getting two nice clean holes drilled so grommets would fit right. Also, in the video he suggests using 3/8" rubber grommets for the holes. That means the holes have to be 1/2" or more to accommodate the larger grommets. I used smaller grommets and made smaller holes - in the end the rewire works excellent. It solved all of the issues I was having with bed plate wiring and I'm no a happy printing novice. Good luck.
this is a noob question, but I'm having issues with the solder- the old wires simply won't come out. and the wires are flipped for my machine- red to black to red to black, instead of a consistent color coordination.
my heated bed died today on the mp select mini, ill have to look and see if its wire damage , or if the unit simply died .. is there a replacement on the market?
ok, thanks for the reply. also was wondering if u know a cheap place to get the supplies for this mod. I mostly only see large quantities of wire online.
Yes. I did mine using the existing wiring. If they are in good shape they can be rerouted. I've got mine coming in thru the side not the back. When the printer is running, the bundle of wires moves very very little. I just used my soldering iron to remove and reattach the 4 wires so they come out the back.
I just finished the mod and I used wire from an old computer power supply as well as the black sheath. For the heater wires, I doubled them up. i.e. 2 red and 2 blk.
I'm not trying to be a troll here. I appreciate what you've done, but I have a few criticisms/comments. 1. Too long. 2. Too low res. 480p is ridiculous for 2017. Google how to go into your channel settings so that HD choices are available to your viewers. I assume you used a high res camera since even cell phones are better than this. 3. Music was awesome, but twice as loud as your voice. 4. I believe the strain relief on the wires on the bottom of the bed was insufficient. Solder is not intended to be structural. I think the zip ties secure the snake skin, not the wires. 5. Why not come straight out instead of curving around? 6. Couldn't really see what you were doing with the wires internal to the unit. I figure most people doing this would just track where they went before starting, so perhaps not a big deal. Thank you for the info. Gave you a thumbs up despite my comments.
I have the V2 and my wires got pulled in half, thus me looking at this video. Also it seems my temp sensor isn't working because it's always saying 500
THANK YOU. I repaired my wiring twice on my V2 and once on my buddy’s.
Now we finally have a more permanent fix!
Great video, just finished the rewire procedure and everything went off without a hitch thanks to your video.
Thanks for the inspiration. I have previously repaired the temp sensor wiring on my v2, but hadn't thought about rerouting the wiring all together. Pinches are gone and I know that I won't have any more trouble with this.
Would you mind putting a parts list in the details section? I noticed i was pausing and taking notes of what you used. Great video! My thermistor went out just like you said!
Very good. Thanks for this. I need to do this but would probably be to nervous if I hadn't seen you do it step by step. I will order the bits and let you know how I get on in a couple of weeks time. All the best from the U.K.
I squeeze a layer of clear silicon I (the "pure silicon") caulk and then smear it into a layer, then set a heavy book or something on it to bond mine...not only does it glue it down but also helps it insulate a bit more...the cork will end up sagging if it is not glued to the base otherwise
Very cool mod...would LOVE to have a one of those Monoprice Select Mini printers!
I considered gluing the cork on, but decided against it in case I had to replace the thermistor. My cork does can not sag due to several factors. The MPSM has a relatively small bed. I use fairly thick cork cut flat and not off a roll. The Kapton tap fully encases the cork leaving no room to sag even if it wanted to. I do not know if these tricks will work on larger build plates however.
toys in the attic
Great video. I have to do this to mine because the bed heat is intermittent.
First time I have seen a soldering iron with LEDs for lighting.
BTW: A Thermistor does not have polarity so it does not mater which wire you connect to it.
you just saved me the cost of buying a new printer god bless
I just did this procedure to my v2 mini and discovered it came with a layer of white cotton-like insulation under the heat bed.
Me to
hey dude - it's been two years since you posted this awesome fix to the problem with these printers - any chance you can post a parts list? I'm getting ready to watch the video and try to create a comprehensive list but an official one from you would be great. Thanks for creating and posting this video - it's exactly the kind of fix I was hoping for.
The maker of the video hasn't responded to requests for a parts list - it's very basic - 2 18" pieces of 18AWG high flex wire - one red and one black. 18" of 18-24 gauge speaker wire. Shrink wrap for some of the wires, 2 rubber grommets to fit the holes drilled for the new wire path - The bottom side of the bed plate was already insulated on my MP select and I simply left it and didn't do any of the kapton tape/cork board steps in the video. The hardest part of the process for me was getting two nice clean holes drilled so grommets would fit right. Also, in the video he suggests using 3/8" rubber grommets for the holes. That means the holes have to be 1/2" or more to accommodate the larger grommets. I used smaller grommets and made smaller holes - in the end the rewire works excellent. It solved all of the issues I was having with bed plate wiring and I'm no a happy printing novice. Good luck.
Great job it’s inspiring
this is a noob question, but I'm having issues with the solder- the old wires simply won't come out.
and the wires are flipped for my machine- red to black to red to black, instead of a consistent color coordination.
After performing the upgrade I've run into issues with adhesion even though the build plate heats to the ideal levels.
Is insulation really necessary?
my heated bed died today on the mp select mini, ill have to look and see if its wire damage , or if the unit simply died .. is there a replacement on the market?
I have not seen any direct replacements available. I have seen people replace the bed with a longer version.
yes, I looked on ebay etc,. they do make replacement heaters for bigger beds, none for 120 by 120mm.
mpselectmini.com/replacements_parts
Where do I get that "wire conduit" or what is it called. It's the only thing I haven't found to make the upgrade on my mini.
The stuff I used is 3/8 Purple Ultra Wrap Wire Loom. I got it from Ebay.
toys in the attic c
could you list all the parts you used for this repair/mod or link them for us
Did he ever give you the parts? I'm interested too.
Is it possible to just use the existing wires?
not really due to length, besides the stock wire flexibility is seriously lacking and would soon fail
ok, thanks for the reply. also was wondering if u know a cheap place to get the supplies for this mod. I mostly only see large quantities of wire online.
I get pretty much everything on Ebay. I usually do not have an issue finding smaller quantities there.
Yes. I did mine using the existing wiring. If they are in good shape they can be rerouted. I've got mine coming in thru the side not the back. When the printer is running, the bundle of wires moves very very little. I just used my soldering iron to remove and reattach the 4 wires so they come out the back.
I just finished the mod and I used wire from an old computer power supply as well as the black sheath. For the heater wires, I doubled them up. i.e. 2 red and 2 blk.
Do you live near NY / NJ ? I would like to pay someone to mod my heater cables...
I am in NC, but I have had a few people send me their Mini for the full upgrades.
Can I drive over to your place and we can mod it together?
Can I get your email address?
booksbywiley@gmail
I'm not trying to be a troll here. I appreciate what you've done, but I have a few criticisms/comments.
1. Too long.
2. Too low res. 480p is ridiculous for 2017. Google how to go into your channel settings so that HD choices are available to your viewers. I assume you used a high res camera since even cell phones are better than this.
3. Music was awesome, but twice as loud as your voice.
4. I believe the strain relief on the wires on the bottom of the bed was insufficient. Solder is not intended to be structural. I think the zip ties secure the snake skin, not the wires.
5. Why not come straight out instead of curving around?
6. Couldn't really see what you were doing with the wires internal to the unit. I figure most people doing this would just track where they went before starting, so perhaps not a big deal.
Thank you for the info. Gave you a thumbs up despite my comments.
Where did you get the wire from?
Ebay or Amazon will have it under hobbies. It is used in RC cars and Quad copters.
Thank you!
was this issue fixed with the v2 ?
V2 added some insulation for the heat bed but the wire issue remains.
thank you
I have the V2 and my wires got pulled in half, thus me looking at this video. Also it seems my temp sensor isn't working because it's always saying 500
Mine crapped out as well.
I had my V2 repaired by Monoprice and it is starting to go bad again after just a month so they don’t have it figured out yet
Flash Hider being made at the end?
Yes, I make cosmetic parts for Nerf and Air-soft.
Nice and useful video.
Is the flash hider design availiable in some repository?.
Thanks.
Another Hour? 44 minutes shorter than the last... you love to cut wires. Not for those users faint of heart!
ohhhhhhh nooooo the scary flash hider nooooooo