I've been working with this survivor, hygienic, varroa resistant bee-line, untreated for more than 8 years exclusively. Learn more here and tell them Fred send you :) www.beeweaver.com/ Always do varroa counts, alcohol wash, sugar shake, whatever works for you and treat only IF you have enough varroa to warrant treatment. Every colony will have varroa mites, what changes is how they are kept under control. Report your mite counts here: bip2.beeinformed.org/mitecheck/
Fred. I am originally from Texas, so I have been wanting to get down there and get some of the beeweavers next spring. Since you have been doing them so long, how often or ever have you had to actually TREAT for varroa? Or do you typically do your mite tests in July time frame? Also what are their swarming habits like? Ex: Early as with Carniolan with explosive population build up. How early in the season do they start doing brood production? Ex; Carniolan. (From the site I guess they have a quick spring build up if fed). Do you know what was the original bee lines that went into these? Ex: Carn, Italian, Buckfast, etc. Have you ever had to treat for Nosema with these? Have you ever had to treat for Tracheal mites? Also do you put a drone plastic frame in a hive exclusively for them to fill, or was that for only your observation hive? Or do you put one drone frame in each hive to easily check for Varroa? Or what is your preferred Varroa test? Thank you for any questions you can answer about this strain.
Hi Carlos, the first rounds of Queens I received from them were a little "swarmy" and would build up and swarm out several times a year. I noticed behavioral improvements year by year and what they are producing now is a vast improvement. I brought in four of their queens this year and they are mild-mannered, only one of them swarmed, and they have a soft disposition. I did treat one fall several years ago as everyone in my beekeepers' association seemed to be convinced that treatment is mandatory. I did oxalic acid vaporizing on one colony in hopes of getting some in-tact dead varroa to video or photograph. There was no improvement with that colony and I couldn't find more than a couple of varroa on the "varroa board" at the bottom. I have several other hives that have never been treated, yet I do continue to monitor them. I will be discussing that in an upcoming video. I've listened to some exceptionally capable beekeepers flatly state with great conviction "people who don't treat lose all of their bees in 3 years or less PERIOD". I found that statement to be exceedingly condescending. I stand by my practice of inspecting and testing, while not treating for problems that don't exist. IF I had a high varroa count, I would use oxalic acid vaporizing methods and I have all of the equipment on hot standby. I prefer to work with lines that handle varroa themselves, rather than those which depend on treatment. I do think that many of the other lines of honeybees (which require varroa interventions), do produce more honey than mine do, so I understand their motivation to work with those bees and treat. Remember, I keep bees in order to study their behavior and create video sequences which are used by graduate students and others around the country. I'm not motivated by honey production. I would thoroughly enjoy visiting the Weaver family and hope to get down there some day to make a video about their operation.
@@FrederickDunn You are doing it for the right reasons Fred. It should never be about the honey first or profit first. There is such a large old school mentality out there, from keepers especially early 80s, who say you must treat for everything no matter what, because at that time by people not listening or doing nothing is probably why we are in this varroa mess. Those keepers also have little faith in new gentically breed bees that self clean, so I would not take it personal, that is just how they are. Some treat for mites every year on schedule even if no treatment is necessary. I personally like the sticky board test the best as you can tell by mite count within 1 to 3 days if you need to treat. Its less invasive to bees like powder test, and requires no killing like the other. Maryland is pretty strict and we have to get inspected once per year per hive, unsure about PA. Not for varroa just hive and extraction tool in general inspection. Thank you for answering my questions and providing so much great information with your videos. Also, does that feeder drown bees? It did not look like it does, but I wasnt sure. So you definitely like it better than gravity fed feeders then? Also you have never lost any hygenic colonies by not treating? For varroa or tracheal mites? Also do you try to prevent swarming by making hive space and swapping boxes, or do you just let it happen and swarm capture? Thanks
Hi Carlos, I looked in on them today and there were no casualties and they are shoulder to shoulder at the nectar/sugar water edge. I'm impressed with the design, it's performing as I'd expected it to. Thanks for all you've shared.
@@FrederickDunn Fred, I just bought someone a flow hive to test out. I used your referral voucher so I just saved 50 bucks and earned you 50 bucks. Thank you.
I'm always open to correction and adapting my methods and tools :) It would be great if we could just find that perfect set of tools and management practices but there are always surprises and improvements :)
I love the footage, editing and calm voice you use. The bonus footage or early morning maintenance helped me understanding something about bees that I wouldn't have otherwise have read/seen. Great videos Frederick!
Darn it every time i check this feeder on amazon isnt available. Any other suggestions you have? Also its been so hard to find beekeeping youtube vidoes based in Utah where i live, do you happen to know of any? Gosh this is the beehive state and you'd think it would be simply to find a youtuber feom utah. Lol thanks for beeing you!!!
Hmmm... Utah TH-cam Beekeepers? Maybe check in with your State Beekeeper's Association to see what they know about that? I can't say that I know of one right off hand.
I know this is an older posted video... I used this top feeder on my hive. When I went in to check the syrup level there was 150-200 dead bees in the syrup. It is headed for the recycle bin.
Hi Mr.Dunn, I am wanting to plant a ton of flowers to grow in the fields near my bee hives in preparation for next spring and summer, especially during the dearth months. My bees are in North Mississippi. I was wondering if you might have any suggestions for what I should plant?
Brood Builder hasn't proven to perform any better than regular sugar syrup, BUT, it does keep the sugar water from spoiling for a longer period of time.
I have used this brood booster, I think it has been amazing building my nuc that I purchased the last Sat of May. They have built comb like crazy, queen laid eggs and l have a mentor coming over next week to see if I need to split they hive before a swarm or to add another box for more room. I have stop adding that to my sugar water, but one note while l was using it, I'd set it on a fence post to open top cover, open lid, take a quick glance and turn to get the sugar water with the booster and had bees swimming in the jar and had to get a stick to help them out. It smells like lemongrass and they LOVE THAT. so I stared putting a lid on it to keep them out. Amazing stuff, it worked for me!!
Fred great video. I am brand new to bee keeping and have been watching and reading as much as possible to arm myself with the knowledge and information folks like yourself share. I am currently waiting on my Flow Hive 2s to arrive this month. Great info on top feeder to include the shims for ventilation! -What are the dimensions of the shims? -Also you use the a medium frame Super by Mann Lake to enclose and protect the top feeder. Being new to all of this....is that a best application/solution for enclosing the Top feeder? or could I not just use an additional Flow Hive Brood box to accomplish the same thing? Maybe it is a cheaper solution? -Have you noticed a issue with sizing up any other brood boxes (brands/makes) or supers on a flow Hive? -You also use a Bee smart cover......Could I not just use the gabled roof that comes with the Flow Hive 2? Thanks Fred for the input. Mark Haley
It's not for warmth, I insert the cover so I have less bur comb to deal with. Two inner covers just makes it more convenient for me and easier clean up.
I have multiple yellowjacket traps with so so results. But the other day after giving my dog treats of Vienna sausage (those little wienies in a can ) I set the can on a railing and when I went back up the stairs I noticed the can was filled with yellow jackets. My dog thinks it is the greatest trap and so do I.
@@FrederickDunn Once again a very gracious reply to my novice suggestions. Today was the battle of the yellow jackets and I have come to realize that I must find the nest. And with consideration that yellow jackets get up earlier and stay later , I was thinking about automatic entrance reducers on a timer.
Can someone please give me an answer on this? Can I add my brood booster to the hot sugar water Where do I have to wait for it to get to room temperature before adding the brood booster stimulant ( 4oz to 12 cups of sugar solution
My bees build comb inside that feeder I have to replace I think they are in the drone comb building mode I have placed drone 2 combs in 2 brood boxes and rest of frames are empty
If you mean that they are building comb inside the center opening (not the entire feeder) then that works out well for their access to the feeder. It's happens in most of my Rapid Rounds.
Could you put this feeder and shim set up directly on the frames, then the hive body around it and innercover on top? Or would that cause excessive amounts of burr comb? Just wondering if I really need 2 inner covers. Thanks!
Hi Desiree, it's my first year testing this type of feeder, I just thought I'd have better control with it on another inner cover. BUT, I think if you put a couple of cross wood slats (90 degrees to the frames) you could set it on them, BUT expect to have to clean up lots of stray comb when you do that. I opened them up today as we had temps in the high 50's. I was VERY surprised to see my small swarm colony still surviving and I have to think that it's due to the feeder and continuing resources as they are in a single deep box. I did not expect them to make it. I have some modifications to consider such as simply making another board that sits on the grames that acts like another inner-cover, but that won't extend to the outside edges... lots of configuration possibilities.
Hi! Thank you so much for such a speedy response. It's very much appreciated. Also congrats on the swarm making it! That's always such good news. I think your initial idea of using two inner covers is pretty good, and probably the best idea. I don't really want to deal with stray comb. Better safe than sorry! Thanks again and all the best.
@@sundancer3625 This is the time of year when we get hopeful and then wham... weather changes and some colonies expire... it's definitely game-on to keep them going :)
I noticed in many of your videos you seem to only shop on Amazon. Have you thought about supporting a brick and motor retailer or a bee keeping business website instead of Amazon?
I do, I shop at Dadant, BetterBee, and get my bees from BeeWeaver. WE don't have any brick and mortar stores for me to buy from. I also link some bee suit designers/manufacturers like Guardian Bee Apparel etc... it's just a sad fact about where I live, that stores which carry what I need are soo far away. We have a nature center that sells beekeeping supplies but they buy in what you need from Mann Lake and I just get my shipments direct from them rather than spending half of my day going to the Nature Center Shop. I have Amazon Prime, so it's generally the best buy for me also.
Hi Donald, there is no user entrance for them to guard as the rapid round blocks entry into the lower hive boxes. Bees don't actually need a lot of top ventilation and they actually seal up screen and other venting if they are given that opportunity. I don't use upper entrances.
I would not put these feeders on a hive that I plan to take honey from. You are correct in that this colony will have a lot of processed sugars in their comb. Since it's for the bees and being used to give them a boost of energy, it will not find its way to your honey production. I would not feed bees during a nectar flow. I would possibly feed after all honey has been taken off for the year. This fall I will be doing sugar-water and essential oil testing, but only after the honey harvest if complete.
Thank you for clarification. You have wonderful bees and I wish you all the best. My grandfather used to have bees in Russia. Now I'm in England and hope to have bees here too one day.
Hi Ona, I'm not certain about what the bees "know", but they voluntarily depart the colony if they are sick or defective, those that are not capable of departing on their own are simply removed by the workers. It's all to preserve the superorganism and they perform these purges fairly frequently.
There should be the basin, the clear inner lid to keep the bees from getting into the syrup and drowning, and the large cover which also prevents the bees from getting into the larger reservoir and drowning. It also prevents flies and other debris from getting into the syrup. In my opinion, yes, you need all three of those components.
@@FrederickDunn I think my terminology is off. I meant the inner cover - the one with the hole. made of wood. my inner cover (lid) has an oval shaped hole in it. I do have the other parts for the actual feeder and I did plan to put a spare hive box around that. we have had bees a couple of times but I'm in Northeastern IL. we lost our bees last year to the top lid being blown off (still not sure how that happened) and the temps were super cold. I'm doing this with my son - but he lives 2 hours away and is going thru serious health issues. I'm not comfortable at all working with the bees. I did install the packages - and then checked after a week to make sure the queen was out. I had leftover frames with honey from last year that I placed in position one and position 10. I also had frames with drawn comb that I put in each hive box. I wish I didn't have to mess with them at all, but will do it until my son comes thru his surgeries and recoveries. any advice? I think I know what brood is, and I do know what capped honey looks like. one hive is thriving with tons of bees, but the packages were exceptionally large (Italians) the other package was more standard - 3 lbs Buckfast) for some reason the Buckfast bees are using the back part of that hive to come and go. it's open in the back. I got that setup from someone locally who was getting out of the bee hobby. is there a way to tell if the one less active hive is doing OK? I have been trying to keep them fed but didn't put my feeders on shims. I may try that today. I also have some pollen patties from last year that I kept in my freezer. should I be putting those in? sorry for all the questions. I just don't want to be the one to kill off his bees. he would be here to help if he could - it's just not possible right now and won't be for another month or so.
@@ssergeant9682 yes, it needs to set on an inner cover and you may have to make that hole larger for the rapid round. You don't need protein patties this time of year as the environment is producing by now. The sugar syrup should do the trick. I personally wouldn't want the bees coming and going from the back of the hive as that's where you would normally attend to them. Even an upper entrance should be on the same side as the landing board. The drawn comb will certainly help them build up fast, as for old honey in the frames, I think that's unnecessary again, as they are able to bring in fresh and may not touch the old stuff anyway. So old comb yes, old capped honey or pollen stores... I'd leave that out. You seem to be doing fine, the packages will probably be highly productive and your son will be happy with all you've done!
sorry for all the questions..........I'm just trying to do it right. should I take out the honey frames and replace them with some I have that have drawn comb but little if any honey? I did put the other ones - honey etc in the freezer overnight to kill off anything that might have had issues (a suggestion from someone). I let them warm up before putting them in the hive body. I have some frames with comb in my garage that I can do the same thing with. but it should be OK - to replace the bottom board on the one - which would force them to use the front?
@@ssergeant9682 I personally would pull the honey frames and replace with comb. It's not about varroa or shb, it's that they probably won't use it and it would invite pests that the new bees may have to deal with.
All my beehives have the top cover made with one gallon antidrowning feeders( just half of the box).They have stainless steel mesh that the bees climb on.I use stainless steel only on my hives ( except the nails of the frames ) because im using acid treatment( bio treatment)plus my beehives are stained green then boiled in parrafine,i made them to last.I experimented a lot with essential oils and finally i gave up because they are more harmfull than the acid for varroa.At somme point i even felt sorry because i killed a lot of bees with the thyme oil,it tooked long time until the queen started to lay eggs again after that.The only good oil i might use is the lavender oil because it has highest ratio of dead varroa vs bees but i didnt heard of nobody that uses it alone except in a study and the quantity would be greater than that of thyme oil( but at same time kills much less bees for the same varroa number compared to thyme oil).
Frederick Dunn Thx.My hives are of my own design and they are great for me but its hard to sell bee frames because they fit only in my beehives.This winter i will build a hive and i will impregnate it with water glass similar to the glasswood brand from USA but i will use a different curing method .I have experience with waterglass from metal foundry building .The oil you applyed on your beehives looks like parrafine.Looks like a good brand but i dislike they darken over time while the wax (dipped /boiled boxes in wax-paraffin) doesnt shift color.Also good to know,to preserve the drawings,never boil the boxes in wax if they allready have an oil coat on them,because the oil will get really dark because of heat.
@@dallasbarrow You're obviously a special needs, non-spelling individual. Watch it Mr Dunn, remember not to feed trolls as they troll on and on and make zero sense to me. wow lol
I would put some honey în that mix. About 30 % honey. Let's not forget that bee's food is not sugar, but honey, and sugar is not a good long term food for bees.
Very clinical ... I'm sure you know what's best for you but I call BS on much of this. 6 year beekeeper. 4/5 overwintered 2018-19. Went to 21 hives (max) this year by splitting, with 3 pkgs. I Use homemade Honey-B-healthy. I use Apiguard oxaclic acid smoker/iron. Lost me at 2 oz per gal. Cost prohibitive for 20 hives. This was AFTER you lost me at Flow-Hive (lazy) ... Open the hives up, do the work, inspect your bees the right way. I've seen a flow hive. My industrial chemist lifelong beekeeper calls "BS" on flow hives. //// Gotta go.
HI Mike, you are always welcome to come and "call BS" on anything I share. Everyone has their own experiences and logic in beekeeping. Glad you took the time to watch and comment. People decide their own beekeeping budget, I just share what the manufacturers recommend. I wish you well with your bees.
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I've been working with this survivor, hygienic, varroa resistant bee-line, untreated for more than 8 years exclusively. Learn more here and tell them Fred send you :) www.beeweaver.com/ Always do varroa counts, alcohol wash, sugar shake, whatever works for you and treat only IF you have enough varroa to warrant treatment. Every colony will have varroa mites, what changes is how they are kept under control. Report your mite counts here: bip2.beeinformed.org/mitecheck/
Fred. I am originally from Texas, so I have been wanting to get down there and get some of the beeweavers next spring.
Since you have been doing them so long, how often or ever have you had to actually TREAT for varroa? Or do you typically do your mite tests in July time frame?
Also what are their swarming habits like? Ex: Early as with Carniolan with explosive population build up.
How early in the season do they start doing brood production? Ex; Carniolan. (From the site I guess they have a quick spring build up if fed).
Do you know what was the original bee lines that went into these? Ex: Carn, Italian, Buckfast, etc.
Have you ever had to treat for Nosema with these?
Have you ever had to treat for Tracheal mites?
Also do you put a drone plastic frame in a hive exclusively for them to fill, or was that for only your observation hive? Or do you put one drone frame in each hive to easily check for Varroa? Or what is your preferred Varroa test?
Thank you for any questions you can answer about this strain.
Hi Carlos, the first rounds of Queens I received from them were a little "swarmy" and would build up and swarm out several times a year. I noticed behavioral improvements year by year and what they are producing now is a vast improvement. I brought in four of their queens this year and they are mild-mannered, only one of them swarmed, and they have a soft disposition. I did treat one fall several years ago as everyone in my beekeepers' association seemed to be convinced that treatment is mandatory. I did oxalic acid vaporizing on one colony in hopes of getting some in-tact dead varroa to video or photograph. There was no improvement with that colony and I couldn't find more than a couple of varroa on the "varroa board" at the bottom. I have several other hives that have never been treated, yet I do continue to monitor them. I will be discussing that in an upcoming video. I've listened to some exceptionally capable beekeepers flatly state with great conviction "people who don't treat lose all of their bees in 3 years or less PERIOD". I found that statement to be exceedingly condescending. I stand by my practice of inspecting and testing, while not treating for problems that don't exist. IF I had a high varroa count, I would use oxalic acid vaporizing methods and I have all of the equipment on hot standby. I prefer to work with lines that handle varroa themselves, rather than those which depend on treatment. I do think that many of the other lines of honeybees (which require varroa interventions), do produce more honey than mine do, so I understand their motivation to work with those bees and treat. Remember, I keep bees in order to study their behavior and create video sequences which are used by graduate students and others around the country. I'm not motivated by honey production. I would thoroughly enjoy visiting the Weaver family and hope to get down there some day to make a video about their operation.
@@FrederickDunn You are doing it for the right reasons Fred. It should never be about the honey first or profit first.
There is such a large old school mentality out there, from keepers especially early 80s, who say you must treat for everything no matter what, because at that time by people not listening or doing nothing is probably why we are in this varroa mess.
Those keepers also have little faith in new gentically breed bees that self clean, so I would not take it personal, that is just how they are.
Some treat for mites every year on schedule even if no treatment is necessary.
I personally like the sticky board test the best as you can tell by mite count within 1 to 3 days if you need to treat. Its less invasive to bees like powder test, and requires no killing like the other.
Maryland is pretty strict and we have to get inspected once per year per hive, unsure about PA. Not for varroa just hive and extraction tool in general inspection.
Thank you for answering my questions and providing so much great information with your videos.
Also, does that feeder drown bees? It did not look like it does, but I wasnt sure. So you definitely like it better than gravity fed feeders then?
Also you have never lost any hygenic colonies by not treating? For varroa or tracheal mites?
Also do you try to prevent swarming by making hive space and swapping boxes, or do you just let it happen and swarm capture?
Thanks
Hi Carlos, I looked in on them today and there were no casualties and they are shoulder to shoulder at the nectar/sugar water edge. I'm impressed with the design, it's performing as I'd expected it to. Thanks for all you've shared.
@@FrederickDunn Fred, I just bought someone a flow hive to test out. I used your referral voucher so I just saved 50 bucks and earned you 50 bucks. Thank you.
Interesting to see your opinions change throughout the years, thanks for putting all of your learnings on youtube!
I'm always open to correction and adapting my methods and tools :) It would be great if we could just find that perfect set of tools and management practices but there are always surprises and improvements :)
I love the footage, editing and calm voice you use. The bonus footage or early morning maintenance helped me understanding something about bees that I wouldn't have otherwise have read/seen. Great videos Frederick!
You are the Bob Ross of beekeeping.
Thanks!
Thank you again for all the information you provided us with.
Darn it every time i check this feeder on amazon isnt available. Any other suggestions you have? Also its been so hard to find beekeeping youtube vidoes based in Utah where i live, do you happen to know of any? Gosh this is the beehive state and you'd think it would be simply to find a youtuber feom utah. Lol thanks for beeing you!!!
Hmmm... Utah TH-cam Beekeepers? Maybe check in with your State Beekeeper's Association to see what they know about that? I can't say that I know of one right off hand.
I purchased one of these feeders....the lid is warped and doesn't close.
I'd return that to the seller. OR, put rubberbands around it until it re-conforms.
I know this is an older posted video... I used this top feeder on my hive. When I went in to check the syrup level there was 150-200 dead bees in the syrup. It is headed for the recycle bin.
Don't throw it away yet Chuck! th-cam.com/video/lai1ryV2CrA/w-d-xo.html
Great Video Fred!
Thank you!
Hi Mr.Dunn, I am wanting to plant a ton of flowers to grow in the fields near my bee hives in preparation for next spring and summer, especially during the dearth months. My bees are in North Mississippi. I was wondering if you might have any suggestions for what I should plant?
Hi Craig, I'll be doing a video in the coming weeks that will answer that very question, I hope you'll subscribe and watch it :)
awesome looking forward to watching your video! Thanks
Great informative video as always!
Thank you :)
Did u like the brood builder did u see a difference in your bees do u use anything with your bees to build them up Thanks
Brood Builder hasn't proven to perform any better than regular sugar syrup, BUT, it does keep the sugar water from spoiling for a longer period of time.
I have used this brood booster, I think it has been amazing building my nuc that I purchased the last Sat of May. They have built comb like crazy, queen laid eggs and l have a mentor coming over next week to see if I need to split they hive before a swarm or to add another box for more room. I have stop adding that to my sugar water, but one note while l was using it, I'd set it on a fence post to open top cover, open lid, take a quick glance and turn to get the sugar water with the booster and had bees swimming in the jar and had to get a stick to help them out. It smells like lemongrass and they LOVE THAT. so I stared putting a lid on it to keep them out. Amazing stuff, it worked for me!!
Fred great video. I am brand new to bee keeping and have been watching and reading as much as possible to arm myself with the knowledge and information folks like yourself share. I am currently waiting on my Flow Hive 2s to arrive this month. Great info on top feeder to include the shims for ventilation!
-What are the dimensions of the shims?
-Also you use the a medium frame Super by Mann Lake to enclose and protect the top feeder. Being new to all of this....is that a best application/solution for enclosing the Top feeder? or could I not just use an additional Flow Hive Brood box to accomplish the same thing? Maybe it is a cheaper solution?
-Have you noticed a issue with sizing up any other brood boxes (brands/makes) or supers on a flow Hive?
-You also use a Bee smart cover......Could I not just use the gabled roof that comes with the Flow Hive 2?
Thanks Fred for the input. Mark Haley
Hi Mark, please watch my video about wintering with FlowHives, I answer your questions in that one. th-cam.com/video/CZsGV1F8xbQ/w-d-xo.html
Fred, why do you add the second inner cover - just to keep it warmer in the area of the feeder? If so, wouldn't an insulated outer cover do the same?
It's not for warmth, I insert the cover so I have less bur comb to deal with. Two inner covers just makes it more convenient for me and easier clean up.
I have multiple yellowjacket traps with so so results. But the other day after giving my dog treats of Vienna sausage (those little wienies in a can ) I set the can on a railing and when I went back up the stairs I noticed the can was filled with yellow jackets. My dog thinks it is the greatest trap and so do I.
Another great tip on what yellow jackets prefer! Thank you, I'll add those to my test-bait list!
@@FrederickDunn Once again a very gracious reply to my novice suggestions. Today was the battle of the yellow jackets and I have come to realize that I must find the nest. And with consideration that yellow jackets get up earlier and stay later , I was thinking about automatic entrance reducers on a timer.
Can someone please give me an answer on this? Can I add my brood booster to the hot sugar water Where do I have to wait for it to get to room temperature before adding the brood booster stimulant ( 4oz to 12 cups of sugar solution
For any additive that may have sensitive traits/active ingredients, I'd wait until it's at or below 110 f.
My bees build comb inside that feeder I have to replace I think they are in the drone comb building mode I have placed drone 2 combs in 2 brood boxes and rest of frames are empty
If you mean that they are building comb inside the center opening (not the entire feeder) then that works out well for their access to the feeder. It's happens in most of my Rapid Rounds.
Could you put this feeder and shim set up directly on the frames, then the hive body around it and innercover on top? Or would that cause excessive amounts of burr comb? Just wondering if I really need 2 inner covers. Thanks!
Hi Desiree, it's my first year testing this type of feeder, I just thought I'd have better control with it on another inner cover. BUT, I think if you put a couple of cross wood slats (90 degrees to the frames) you could set it on them, BUT expect to have to clean up lots of stray comb when you do that. I opened them up today as we had temps in the high 50's. I was VERY surprised to see my small swarm colony still surviving and I have to think that it's due to the feeder and continuing resources as they are in a single deep box. I did not expect them to make it. I have some modifications to consider such as simply making another board that sits on the grames that acts like another inner-cover, but that won't extend to the outside edges... lots of configuration possibilities.
Hi! Thank you so much for such a speedy response. It's very much appreciated. Also congrats on the swarm making it! That's always such good news. I think your initial idea of using two inner covers is pretty good, and probably the best idea. I don't really want to deal with stray comb. Better safe than sorry! Thanks again and all the best.
@@sundancer3625 This is the time of year when we get hopeful and then wham... weather changes and some colonies expire... it's definitely game-on to keep them going :)
Dayum. Bees are savage
Hey Fred, so i see in more current vids you don't use those shims under the rapid round feeder, why is that?
The new rapid rounds don't have that center extension anymore :) amzn.to/3hGgwSw and I see that as a plus. :)
@@FrederickDunn so giving them access to the interior of the feeder shim is what you want?
What is the make and model of that thermometer you should at the beginning? I like it!
AcuRite, I have the newer version, here's my review of it... th-cam.com/video/0WgWsvngAXc/w-d-xo.html they still sell the older models as well.
I noticed in many of your videos you seem to only shop on Amazon. Have you thought about supporting a brick and motor retailer or a bee keeping business website instead of Amazon?
I do, I shop at Dadant, BetterBee, and get my bees from BeeWeaver. WE don't have any brick and mortar stores for me to buy from. I also link some bee suit designers/manufacturers like Guardian Bee Apparel etc... it's just a sad fact about where I live, that stores which carry what I need are soo far away. We have a nature center that sells beekeeping supplies but they buy in what you need from Mann Lake and I just get my shipments direct from them rather than spending half of my day going to the Nature Center Shop. I have Amazon Prime, so it's generally the best buy for me also.
Why don't you just make the hole bigger and add other holes for ventilation. It looks like you made a user entrance that they will need to guard.
Hi Donald, there is no user entrance for them to guard as the rapid round blocks entry into the lower hive boxes. Bees don't actually need a lot of top ventilation and they actually seal up screen and other venting if they are given that opportunity. I don't use upper entrances.
Have you ever tried the Apimaye Beehive?
I have no current plans to try them, but many have asked. For now anyway, I prefer the wooden hive bodies.
Fred, won't they instead start making fake honey from that sugar sirup?
I would not put these feeders on a hive that I plan to take honey from. You are correct in that this colony will have a lot of processed sugars in their comb. Since it's for the bees and being used to give them a boost of energy, it will not find its way to your honey production. I would not feed bees during a nectar flow. I would possibly feed after all honey has been taken off for the year. This fall I will be doing sugar-water and essential oil testing, but only after the honey harvest if complete.
Thank you for clarification. You have wonderful bees and I wish you all the best.
My grandfather used to have bees in Russia. Now I'm in England and hope to have bees here too one day.
You're very welcome and i hope you do find yourself caring for bees of your own some day.
Dumb question, do they sting them first? Why can't they just fly away?
They don't sting them first, it's too cold for them to fly in the mornings, they eject them and simply don't allow them back in.
@@FrederickDunn , so really, the bees know they are doomed. I'm sure they know how it works and what's best for the colony.. Thank you.
Frederick Dunn where do you get the hygienic bees from?
Thanks for that question Christopher, I get my bees from www.beeweaver.com just tell them Fred Sent you :)
Hi Ona, I'm not certain about what the bees "know", but they voluntarily depart the colony if they are sick or defective, those that are not capable of departing on their own are simply removed by the workers. It's all to preserve the superorganism and they perform these purges fairly frequently.
do I need to add the 2nd lid? I only have one.
There should be the basin, the clear inner lid to keep the bees from getting into the syrup and drowning, and the large cover which also prevents the bees from getting into the larger reservoir and drowning. It also prevents flies and other debris from getting into the syrup. In my opinion, yes, you need all three of those components.
@@FrederickDunn I think my terminology is off. I meant the inner cover - the one with the hole. made of wood. my inner cover (lid) has an oval shaped hole in it. I do have the other parts for the actual feeder and I did plan to put a spare hive box around that.
we have had bees a couple of times but I'm in Northeastern IL. we lost our bees last year to the top lid being blown off (still not sure how that happened) and the temps were super cold. I'm doing this with my son - but he lives 2 hours away and is going thru serious health issues. I'm not comfortable at all working with the bees. I did install the packages - and then checked after a week to make sure the queen was out. I had leftover frames with honey from last year that I placed in position one and position 10. I also had frames with drawn comb that I put in each hive box. I wish I didn't have to mess with them at all, but will do it until my son comes thru his surgeries and recoveries.
any advice? I think I know what brood is, and I do know what capped honey looks like. one hive is thriving with tons of bees, but the packages were exceptionally large (Italians) the other package was more standard - 3 lbs Buckfast) for some reason the Buckfast bees are using the back part of that hive to come and go. it's open in the back. I got that setup from someone locally who was getting out of the bee hobby.
is there a way to tell if the one less active hive is doing OK? I have been trying to keep them fed but didn't put my feeders on shims. I may try that today. I also have some pollen patties from last year that I kept in my freezer. should I be putting those in?
sorry for all the questions. I just don't want to be the one to kill off his bees. he would be here to help if he could - it's just not possible right now and won't be for another month or so.
@@ssergeant9682 yes, it needs to set on an inner cover and you may have to make that hole larger for the rapid round. You don't need protein patties this time of year as the environment is producing by now. The sugar syrup should do the trick. I personally wouldn't want the bees coming and going from the back of the hive as that's where you would normally attend to them. Even an upper entrance should be on the same side as the landing board. The drawn comb will certainly help them build up fast, as for old honey in the frames, I think that's unnecessary again, as they are able to bring in fresh and may not touch the old stuff anyway. So old comb yes, old capped honey or pollen stores... I'd leave that out. You seem to be doing fine, the packages will probably be highly productive and your son will be happy with all you've done!
sorry for all the questions..........I'm just trying to do it right. should I take out the honey frames and replace them with some I have that have drawn comb but little if any honey? I did put the other ones - honey etc in the freezer overnight to kill off anything that might have had issues (a suggestion from someone). I let them warm up before putting them in the hive body. I have some frames with comb in my garage that I can do the same thing with. but it should be OK - to replace the bottom board on the one - which would force them to use the front?
@@ssergeant9682 I personally would pull the honey frames and replace with comb. It's not about varroa or shb, it's that they probably won't use it and it would invite pests that the new bees may have to deal with.
What happened to the Bugzooka?
Addendum: just the link changed, Bugzooka still exists.
Does this work? amzn.to/2WTRPIs
@@FrederickDunn yes, thank you.
Very sad to see the bees that have been cast out to die but the bees must know best. 😢
They do indeed.
All my beehives have the top cover made with one gallon antidrowning feeders( just half of the box).They have stainless steel mesh that the bees climb on.I use stainless steel only on my hives ( except the nails of the frames ) because im using acid treatment( bio treatment)plus my beehives are stained green then boiled in parrafine,i made them to last.I experimented a lot with essential oils and finally i gave up because they are more harmfull than the acid for varroa.At somme point i even felt sorry because i killed a lot of bees with the thyme oil,it tooked long time until the queen started to lay eggs again after that.The only good oil i might use is the lavender oil because it has highest ratio of dead varroa vs bees but i didnt heard of nobody that uses it alone except in a study and the quantity would be greater than that of thyme oil( but at same time kills much less bees for the same varroa number compared to thyme oil).
Thanks for sharing your thoughts, sounds like a nice setup you have.
Frederick Dunn Thx.My hives are of my own design and they are great for me but its hard to sell bee frames because they fit only in my beehives.This winter i will build a hive and i will impregnate it with water glass similar to the glasswood brand from USA but i will use a different curing method .I have experience with waterglass from metal foundry building .The oil you applyed on your beehives looks like parrafine.Looks like a good brand but i dislike they darken over time while the wax (dipped /boiled boxes in wax-paraffin) doesnt shift color.Also good to know,to preserve the drawings,never boil the boxes in wax if they allready have an oil coat on them,because the oil will get really dark because of heat.
Thanks Mihai, all good information. I hope you make a TH-cam video of your process!
I can't believe you are putting up these videos and don't even know the difference between a drone and a worker. You need to do a bit of research.
Where did I mention that there is no difference between drones and workers? And yes, I'm all about research.
My comment says "know" not NO. You keep showing workers traped in the water and calling them drones. You will confuse people.
@@dallasbarrow You're obviously a special needs, non-spelling individual. Watch it Mr Dunn, remember not to feed trolls as they troll on and on and make zero sense to me. wow lol
I would put some honey în that mix. About 30 % honey.
Let's not forget that bee's food is not sugar, but honey, and sugar is not a good long term food for bees.
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Very clinical ... I'm sure you know what's best for you but I call BS on much of this. 6 year beekeeper. 4/5 overwintered 2018-19. Went to 21 hives (max) this year by splitting, with 3 pkgs. I Use homemade Honey-B-healthy. I use Apiguard oxaclic acid smoker/iron. Lost me at 2 oz per gal. Cost prohibitive for 20 hives. This was AFTER you lost me at Flow-Hive (lazy) ... Open the hives up, do the work, inspect your bees the right way. I've seen a flow hive. My industrial chemist lifelong beekeeper calls "BS" on flow hives. //// Gotta go.
HI Mike, you are always welcome to come and "call BS" on anything I share. Everyone has their own experiences and logic in beekeeping. Glad you took the time to watch and comment. People decide their own beekeeping budget, I just share what the manufacturers recommend. I wish you well with your bees.