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Hiii Alec 😊 im an electrician from Norway. So quick tip about the fuse. You can actually change it to a modern one with the correct amps. The reason it's only for amps is because it only powers the control panel. If you have any questions that needs an electrician im here 👍🏼 happy to help
That plate is to stop you from turning it into high speed. It seems the previous owner put a WAY too small fuse in there and when you turn on high speed mode it blows the fuse / trips the breaker. Could be they didn't want to use high speed due to the material they were working or they just didn't have the right parts when servicing it and did it as a safety precaution. The manual should tell you what is supposed to be there.
Worked on those surface grinder for a while. The parts in the bottom of the hydraulic tank are the system pressure relief valve. The wheel spindle taper bearings may need either resetting or replacing, you should check the run out of the table before putting the mag chick back on as you might need to replace the table support bearings in the tracks under the table, and that's easiest to do loosening the hydraulic piston rid end bits at either end under the aluminium table end pieces then lifting said table off. The bearings are pressed into nylon strips which you can buy in a roll from good bearing supply companies. Cannot just remember, but the taper bearings might be C3 spec that have a greater clearance to allow them to be present to run at higher pads and speeds. The hydraulic oil tends to get fouled up quite quickly with grinding debris. That manual you bought should tell you most daily stuff. Oh, check the amount of vertical wear in the fixed but for the vertical lift screw accessible from the tall rear panel. Wear and tear on parts will just all depend on how accurate you want to get. If you can get the wheel spindle bearing specs your bearing supplier could probably get you the best up to date type of oil to use.
The old German machine probably meant the lamp oil kind of kerosene instead of the cleaning-solventy kind of kerosene which again is different from the kerosene planes use as fuel. Gotta love old, ambiguous nomenclature....
@@CA-gy4qf We have both in the UK. The lamp stuff and heating oil is usually red or purply in colour The cleaning stuff (white spirit) is usually clear in solvent form.
Yeah especially as the number of machines that will have no problem seriously injuring somebody has like doubled in the last two videos (and he hasn't unboxed the water jet yet).
WeaponKing is right. You treat those machines like a venomous snake. As long as you handle them with extreme caution, you're relatively safe. The moment you get too comfortable or forget to respect them is when they decide they're going to kill you. I'd rather be jumpy every day on film than be missing fingers or worse.
I don’t think I have ever commented on your videos, but can I just say as someone who has never done any type of blacksmithing just enjoys mechanical engineering style work? I have been watching your videos for the past five years and still to this date never picked up any type of blacksmithing equipment. I dig your videos, man you’re doing great work.
Totally! It's so nice to watch someone do something they're passionate about. I'm pretty new to the channel and I know nothing about engineering, but it's still super interesting!
I work as an Electrician and had something similar happen to a surface grinder, where it would pop a fuse over a certain rpm. The reason for it was freaking arcing within the motor to a grounded screw because of coal dust built up (from the brushes) and maybe improper Hardware/Repair (Long screw). The fix after figuring it out was easy, shorten the screw and clean up the inside of the motor, and while I was at it, I replaced the brushes because they nearly didn't exist anymore.
Hiii Alec 😊 im an electrician from Norway. So quick tip about the fuse. You can actually change it to a modern one with the correct amps. The reason it's only four amps is because it only powers the control panel. If you have any questions that needs an electrician im here 👍🏼 happy to help
yea, but now he's invested in old porcelain fuses! but jokes aside, just rip the fuse box out and put a modern din rail in with two normal four amp fuses, depending on the electronics you might need slow triggering ones rather than the normal ones
Im a industrial electrician from Belgium, just here because I love to see people thinker with these old machines. And just like Mariusgiik always ready to help out. 😉
You need to let air into the grinding room. That's why it's sucking your door open. Drill another 2 holes in the wall where you want your fresh air to come from.
They make door vents that are one way. You just cut a square hole in the bottom, and the kit that comes with them has fascia to cover it. They work for a whole variety of door thicknesses.
Drill two sets and install slide gate dampers, then you can pick whether you want to pull conditioned air from your shop or air from outside depending on the weather!
Surface grinder owner here (I also had to rebuild my mag chuck). Before mounting your chuck for good you will want to remove it and grind the table in after you ensure your machine is perfectly level. I then took some light cuts on the bottom of the mag chuck to ensure it is flat, then I mounted the chuck and kept grinding until you have it largely cleaned up (if there is a dip in the top side just leave it be). Something you would also want to do is get a current clamp so you can watch your motor power draw. I saw people talking about bearing pre-load adjustment here, and monitoring the motor power would help you with the adjustment. Something you are supposed to do (at least on some surface grinders) is to quickly pulse the motor and let it spin down a couple of times to help circulate the lubricant before turning it on and leaving it on. I don't have 3-ph power in my home shop, so I just added a pair of VFDs to my surface grinder which gives me a long acceleration (I think 1min), but also gives me a fast decel (I think 10sec without a dynamic breaking resistor). Also, when working on the inside of a mag chuck, keep the magnets much further apart. If the end were to shift too close to another magnet assembly it could cause them to snap together which could fracture a bunch of the ceramic magnets as well as be very difficult to take apart without damage.
IIRC the spindle thing is mostly for plain bearings where you would want to get lubrication spread and embedded before really letting it go for a long period.
The 25A label on the fuse socket is likely just the maximum rating of the socket. Doesn't mean that you need a 25A Fuse in there. 4A seem pretty low but that is porbably just a Fuse for a small part of the machine. The big fuses are the black cubes in the top row.
That kind of porcelin fuse used to be common in here in Sweden. The 25A is what that cap is rated for. Then the socket on the inside determines the biggest fuse that can be inserted. Higher amp fuses have a larger diameter front part, and won't be able to fit in a lower amp socket (which have a smaller diameter at the front than the higher amp fuse). A lower amp fuse can be inserted in a higher amp socket.
@@Esqofosd that is correct. I just left out the details and called the entire thing including the cap a socket to simplify it for people who don't know electronics as it seemed an unecessary detail for my point. Also you can replace the ring in the socket to make it fit bigger or smaller fuses but the 25A is still the max for the entire thing if you use no ring at all.
Yes absolutely correct. In Germany we have the Same. And i think 4 a is the right rating . It seems like they are for the Controlling voltage. 2 fuses ist pretty unusual for Motors because they need 3 fuses.
@@Esqofosd We actually had them in the house I live in in the Netherlands. They got replaced about a year or two ago! I still have a couple in my workshop.
@AlecSteele Just some quick notes about your dust extractor... 1. Your extractor outside could be against fire code because you have a uPVC door rather than a fire door right next to it and if the dust extractor was too set on fire it would melt that door and could spread the fire inside faster than can be dealt with. You should also make sure you have a fire extinguisher close to the dust extractor. It might also be worth looking into an aftermarket fire suppression kit that you can install inside the dust extractor just in case! 2. For the ducting make sure you don't have many 90 degree corners, you need smooth turns to reduce the resistance. 3. Make sure you ground all of the metal ducting to remove static electricity as this can clog the tubes and cause fires. 4. Setup the internal ducting so you have ducts near each machine (out of range of most sparks) and install blast gates so it can increase the suction next the tool that you are using. 5. Remember arrestors are placed best closer to the tool that sparks and they require cleaning out!
The ducting connects to the extractor that is hopefully grounded already so no need to also ground the ducting. Metal dust are also not that flammable.
@@Dragonited It doesn't matter unit is grounded, you're still supposed to ground the metal ducting because static buildup can and will still occur because of airflow friction, Metal dust can be extremely flammable, even explosive. It's generally less safe than non-metal dust! Aluminium dust is highly flammable/explosive, magnesium obviously is very flammable, titanium dust burns extremely intensely, zirconium is flammable and explosive and any other metal including steel with oil residue can be flammable. Other than the metal dust it will always still collect other dusts which could be the initial ignition of a fire. Also you have to think about galvanic corrosion which can happen in the ducting when the static causes dust to stick to the sides. So the grounding throughout the run off ducting is much more important than you think.
You might want to check the fire strategy for your building. If that uPVC door you’ve partially obstructed with the extractor is an escape door/route, you might need to reposition it.
He mentioned last video that he got landlord-approval for putting this thing outside, and I doubt the landlord would have agreed to letting him obstruct an escape door.
Don't forget to Ping the grinding wheel when you mount the grinding wheel. The Ping is a light tap with a small hammer. If you hear a Ping it's a good grinding wheel. If you hear a dull thud the grinding wheel is cracked and it can explode when you turn the spindle on. And you DO NOT want a grinding wheel that big to explode.
A big wheel like that is enough to break through almost a cm thick aluminium casting and make shrapnel that travels (by bounce) with good force over two three meters. I've had one explode because of a mishap with the drive. It broke the cast iron housing in half, bent the M8 bolts like play dough and made several dents in the magnetic chuck along with the walls. I was safely tucked in the least likely place to get hit, down the axis of rotation, but had someone been in the room with me, "down wind" i've no doubt that would've caused severe lacerations. It's a huge amount of force just begging to let loose. Tools demand respect and give none back.
Hey Alec! Heating engineer here, Kerosene has changed composition over the years, particularly the last 5 or so. We had a big thing a couple years back with oil pumps on burners burning out and after long conversations with manufacturers it was concluded that kerosene is no longer as lubricating as it used to be. So that’s probably why it called for kerosene, because it used to be much more lubricative.
Ikke og the reasons that kerosene is less lubricating than before, is due to more stringent emission rules. This means that at the refinery were kerosene is distilled, they purify it more removing a lot of the aromatics and lubricating impurities.
hey alec, something ive thought about since last video, the grinding room extractor could benefit from some ducting on the ceiling that goes across the room and pulls from across the whole room from some vents or something like that. this would hopefully make the air filtration a lot faster as it wouldnt have to pull everything over to one side of the room to the intake port on the extractor, and instead filter from across the whole room and then through ducting to the extractor
As long as the inlets and outlet run to the same loosely sealed room, and the machine doesn't rely on creating turbulent flow to agitate airborne particles enough to move them into the vaccum cone, that's probably a good idea.
Even better would be to create slightly elevated secondary floor with holes and connecting the extractor there. That way heavy dust will just fall down and be captured instead of trying to lift it. Just like in the cleem rooms.
@@AlecSteele Would it not be better to draw dirty air from the floor, and introduce fresh air near the ceiling/top of the door? Maximise the amount of fresh clean air in the top half of the room - where you breathe.
With a magic chuck, basically what happens is the magnets are set up in banks so that when you operate the lever it pulls them so their fields are opposite phase and mostly cancel it out. Then when you turn it on they align so that they amplify the field. Pretty cool to learn about
I wonder what exaclty did with replacing the first magnet with the THICC bronce bushing. I mean perhaps on that side there is a thin line of slightmagnetic force that cant be fully turned off because the counter-magnet meant to cancel it out is missing, but what i am more worried about is if Alec did make the bronce bushing exactly the thickness of the magnet, or if he made it a little bit thinner in order to have more rod to work with. If its not the exact same thickness i would assume everything is aligned perfectly which might mean the chuck can never fully be turned off or/as well as the pulling force when turned on might not be as strong as you might need it to be. Or maybe magnetic fields are just so tollerant that a tiny misalignment doesnt actually mean anything and the fields still form and interact perfectly fine, i am really no magnet expert.
@@ManiacRacing engineers try to use as little original thought as possible. use proven methods you are not an architect. dont go re inventing the wheel when you can use a wheel. stealing ideas is what engineering is.
These episodes that almost purely combines, electrical, mechanical engineering is really awesome. Even as a software engineer they are sooo interesting to watch!
Hey Alec when you don't want to exchange the ultrasonic cleaning fluid for a smaller part put the part in a plastic bag and so only the fluid in the bags get dirty
About the fuses: It's an older system. The 25A refers to the maximum that this fuse assembly can handle. If You look inside the assembly however, there is a ring with the same diameter as the smaller contact of the broken 4A fuse. If you look at it, there is probably a 4A indication aswell. These rings can be swapped to accomodate stronger fuses. Without switching out the receptables however, they won't fit because they have an intentionally bigger diameter. However, I would strongly suggest to not do that unless You know exactly what You're doing. Just upping the fuse can be dangerous and even cause fires.
i was a bit surprised that those fuses aren't... a common thing? Here in Sweden they are in allot of old houses/barns, you can even buy em at the grocery store. I got some in my barn even ^-^ even tho the house and main's are modern switch fuses now, as they aren't up to modern standards. Fun old farmer trick my grandparents did was if the fuses kept blowing, just jam a 6 inch nail in there and it works with only a "Slight" chance of electrocution and fire :D ... Yea don't do that.
The tolerance of filament fuses is so wide a couple amps isn't going to make a meaningful difference. Unless those are some kind of special precision fuses.
@@1pcfred It's more of the i²t that's the problem. Higher amps fuse tend to break later for the same current, so there's more risk of overcurrent (and breaking other parts) before the fuse trips.
You did a really good job cleaning up and getting that surface grinder working. I’ve spent a long time cleaning up the surface grinder I inherited from my grandfather and as you figured out with your machine, it’s not easy. It was definitely a smart move to try to fix the mag chuck rather than buy a new one, a new quality one of that size would probably cost around £4000. One thing I would highly recommend doing is grinding the bearing surface that the mag chuck sits on, there’s no guarantee that it’s still flat, and especially with the machine having been transported it’s a really good idea to grind that in before you put the mag chuck on top of it.
In fact it is very common for those spindles to run on kerosin or petroleum. Stay with Kerosin, because it is engineered to use that. Important to know would be if your spindel is a rollerbearing-based or a plain-bearing based one. Your manual suggested a roller one, but those don't stop and sease that quickly(in my experience). The root of your problem is most probably that your bearings are adjusted too tight and generate too much heat and thus expand and sease. On the side of your spindel you can see two adjustmentscrews that tighten and loosen your play of the spindelbearing(it is a really fine adjustment(sometimes 0.002mm per revolution). You have to loosen them until your spindel no longer seases.
This is great info thank you! I was scared to play with the bearing adjustment too much, I was nervous incase it would be possible to unscrew something too much and drop a component, is there any risk of this?
@@AlecSteeleno problem. It depends on the design, but if you want you can send me your drawings of the spindel and I could have a look. But in fact dialing in the adjustment takes some time and can be quiet frustrating.
@@AlecSteele All you're doing is adjusting the preload. Worst than can happen(within reason, and being reasonably sensibly) is that the spindle goes loose.
@@AlecSteele Also with plain bearings you are always at risk of gauling your bearings if you run them dry, with the wrong lubricant or to tight(equivilent to without lubricant) but as you said, parts propably wont fall out
Had the Same machine at my old employer, we used kerosene for lubricant like the Manual suggests for years. Our spindle kept turning like 30 Seconds after turning of the spindle Motor, granted with a wheel installed, so more inertia. Seems plausible your bearings might be too tight
I found the kerosene thing very interesting and i did some research. It seems that during the time period the grinding table was designed, kerosene production was not as efficient as it is today. this means that kerosene you would have had back then would have more oily products in it and would have a higher lubricity. Essentially, it would have worked as a very, very light oil. If you wanted an oil lighter than anything off the shelf, then you might have used kerosene. That would explain why kerosene is called for on the machine's tag (from the manufacturer) but modern kerosene is doing essentially nothing to lubricate the bearings. all that said, i would just the lightest oil you could find today. i'm sure there is a synthetic super light oil that would work fine (probably some kind of mineral oil)
I’ve watched your channel from early on, it’s amazing to see how much you’ve grown and learned in these couple years. It’s inspired me to go back to school for my own interests. Keep it up man, much respect.
You should have a way to route fresh air into the grinding room now that the dust extractor is sucking air out. If the room is sealed off, the dust extractor will stop sucking when the pressure in the room gets low enough, or it will just have a hard time or not be as effective as it could be.
YOU MENTIONED KURT FROM CEE>>>>>>I love watching Kurt, Karen and Homeless. Between you and them, you all kept me sane after my knee replacement surgery last year...binge watched CEE and Alec Steel whilst I was laid up.
Wow. I don’t know how I lived without watching you for a couple months. I love how you bring back life to old machines, even though it can be very difficult you still do it with joy.
Handy tip on the ultrasonic. If you've got some grade A filth to put through it put the part and some solvent in a plastic bag (i use snap lock LDPE bags) then blast it with the ultrasonic. You only contaminate the little bit of solvent then not the whole bath. These days I mostly just use water for the bath and bag up whatever I'm putting in it. You can do a triple wash then and only use like 100ml of solvent for a handful of small parts. Can alternate them too, kero first, soapy water, then work your way up to IPA for a final polish and rapid dry.
I loved the peaceful, almost holiday music, while Alec was making the bronze washers; then suddenly "F*ck I dropped it." and the music continues without missing a beat XD
When dressing the circular cut out of sheet metal, you would be able to do it just with pressing it with live center against the chuck. It force would by enough to turn it easily, I turned that way even bigger pieces.
Glad to see that your wife made a cameo in video too! Love to see family involved with projects! Here’s wishing you to many more happy years together!!!
I worked on a shear for a few years, if you orient the light forward/reverse properly, the shadow cast from the top blade can be used as a guide line for your cuts. That’s all we ever used to line up our marks before the cut.
@AlecSteele at 3:54 that looks an awful lot like an expansion valve, to set the maximum operating pressure rather than to release pressure when it gets too high.
You’ve quickly become one of my favourite TH-camrs! With your great sense of humour, incredible skillset and your engaging personality, makes for incredibly informative, educational and entertaining videos!!! And now I want my own forge and machining equipment very badly lol
I’m VERY envious of your new Nepros tools! I was at SEMA 3 years ago and stopped at the Nepros tools booth. Nepros tools and tool boxes are not only amazing but also Beautiful. I still have the Brochure from them and flip through it every couple months. They feel and look better than Snap-On could ever be.
Hey! I'm Michael and am the U.S. logistics and warehouse manager for nepros. Also, I'm the one that was able to get us to send those tools to Alec and I love that you like our tools. If you have any questions or comments, reply to this and I'll get back to you!
Also, I unfortunately wasn't able to get there that year bc of some stuff but I'd guess you met with Tetsu or Kaz. Sorry for blabbering on btw, I'm just very excited for my first attempt at a 'sponsorship' with Alec. I've followed him for like 8 years on YT, so this is very cool to me and I'm thrilled that nepros is getting such a large shoutout.
I dunno, it may be a pain for you, but watching you go through the process of figuring out the issues and fixing them gives us so much insight into what these machines really are, how they operate, and the engineering challenges that come with designing and maintaining them, which is tremendously interesting. Love the work you've been doing recently with all of these beautiful machines.
These are some of my favourite videos, Alec fixing machines, the chambersburg, the stanko, original surface grinder 😂 love these so much. I need a whole Alec fixes stuff series!
I'm not an expert, but if you plan to grind without a helmet now that you have that extractor, you might want to get an adjustable hose/hood you can position to suck the stuff out more efficiently.
Good job mate. However it might have been better to elevate that dust extractor a few inches up off the floor (with concrete slabs or even timbers) so it's not getting moisture direct from the floor being outside like that.
Sends me back in time to when I spent many years working in similar workshops with all these types of of machinery and it’s great to see your enthusiasm and skill nice one
Glad the missus got a mention in over a year.. Few questions marra. 1. How’s the house reno coming on? Or have you moved back in to the workshop. 2. Is the colab with Colin furze you were gonna do before the move to Montana gonna happen now you’re back in the uk? Love the vids! (Jaime, keep doing your thing bud!)
These are without a doubt some of the most enjoyable of your videos I have ever seen - So cool and interesting seeing your process of cleaning and restoring these machines
It a really old tool. This kerosene is not that kerosene. They were probably referring to Coal oil actually, not the today`s Kerosene A1 type of liquid
Love to see where the channel is going, and love the longer format videos. I'm always down for watching 30 minutes. Love what you do, keep it up. Been watching for years, and will continue to watch. Can't wait to see what comes next.
26:30 “I don’t understand the obsession with aluminium…” Because it’s a magnetic chuck, and steel moving parts will magnetic up and stick together and bind and gall?
Impressive surface grinder, low spindle speed, and low surface speed is preferable for working on Titanium , ref its low thermal conductivity compared to ferrous. Great auction haul. Thanks for sharing
So, big problem with the extractor, you have no air inlet to equalize pressure, your gonna just dead head and not extract anything. And possibly back draft any gas heaters you may have in the building. You should probably look at this sooner than later.
IIRC Kerosene is one of those substances that is very place and time dependent. The kerosene we can buy today is much purer and cleaner burning than the old stuff that might have worked perfectly as a lubricant, but no longer.
I have a small shop at home where I have plenty of tools and milling machine and metal lathe but the equipment you’re getting in is making me jealous. Good for you. Love your videos. Beautiful dog as well
Ive been taught the basics of mag chucks from my classes in machining, but to see how one works and the pieces that make it up in action is neat af. To clarify, I have used mag chucks on surface grinders, just not seen one disassembled and fixed.
10/10 video I love watching you upgrade and work on your new shop tools, and I cannot be alone in saying that. Your very entertaining, funny, and smart and it's always a blast to see a new video!
@AlecSteele, loving your videos specially experimenting with stuff and learning new things. i like how you take us through your process of repairing and fettleing your "new" machines.
Definitely one of my top 10 videos, I enjoy watching you take on a challenge and learn about a new machine and just jump into it!! also I like the length of this video!!!
24:26 - I woulve TRIED to keep the end magnets cool, and then weld on some extra threaded bar, and then tidied it up so that you had a little extra (and thus decent) thread to make a secure fixture... 🤔🤔🤔😎🇬🇧
Love these videos! Super cool to see you take some old and forgotten machines and give them a massive new lease in life! Great amount of info and attention to getting things done right!
I'm really happy to see so many new smiths! The old tools are awesome. Making tools to make tools is awesome. Can't wait to see what's next. Be safe, and happy smithing!
If this were a professional shop in the UK it would also be illegal. I think it may be legal here because it's essentially a private shop. Alec has no employees, and is free to take the risk to block the door himself.
I too am a fan of Kurtis, at Cutting Edge Engineering. I just saw Adam Savage (Mythbusters) visit his workshop in Australia. Kurtis is a great teacher, when it comes to machining, fitting, turning and welding.
Maybe there is a centrifugal clutch which stops the motor from getting too much speed? Also, for the love of god, get some Knipex parallel pliers, you will adore them.
The big black boxes in the electrical cabinet are motor protection switches. They simply trip when the rated amps are exceeded. Often times these old ones shift over time and trip too early. I had to replace a bunch in my milling machine, because they kept tripping. Put in new, modern ones with the correct amperage settings and its been good ever since. Regarding the grinding spindle: I really hope the bearings are okay. It would be well worth the money to bring an expert in and take a look at it! If the spindle just needs to be adjusted, thats fine. If it breaks and needs to be replaced -oh boy oh boy! Not good! The spindle just stopping mid-run because the bearings are seizing scared the crap out of me! Keep up the videos!
It's such a pleasure to watch you work and solve problems. You're one of the best engineers on TH-cam and this definitely the best channel. Thanks mate
The fuses are pretty standard, but the head says 25A, which is the absolutely maximum value for a type 2 fuse (there's a type 3 that's physically larger), however what you need to do is to look at the bottom of the fuse well to see what kind of bottom restrictor that's installed. Now you need some of those AvE stickers "This Machine Predates Safety".
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Alex do you watch kurt and Karen at CEE channel 😮
Thats one of the first sponsorships products I could actually use right know
Hiii Alec 😊 im an electrician from Norway. So quick tip about the fuse. You can actually change it to a modern one with the correct amps. The reason it's only for amps is because it only powers the control panel. If you have any questions that needs an electrician im here 👍🏼 happy to help
That plate is to stop you from turning it into high speed. It seems the previous owner put a WAY too small fuse in there and when you turn on high speed mode it blows the fuse / trips the breaker. Could be they didn't want to use high speed due to the material they were working or they just didn't have the right parts when servicing it and did it as a safety precaution. The manual should tell you what is supposed to be there.
The inertia of the wheel should stop it from jammng as the current will not spike as fast. Try the high speed with the wheel or try a new breaker
Loving the longer videos, they're more enjoyable than the 10-12 minute format. More 30 minute videos please!
agree
yes, I enjoy longer videos. more of the figuring and tinkering. I like the time to get to know the host and how their brain works.
1hr+ be even better :D
I agree also, longer videos gives us my context and etc
YES, the 25-30 min videos are great, Jamie PLEASE :)
Worked on those surface grinder for a while. The parts in the bottom of the hydraulic tank are the system pressure relief valve.
The wheel spindle taper bearings may need either resetting or replacing, you should check the run out of the table before putting the mag chick back on as you might need to replace the table support bearings in the tracks under the table, and that's easiest to do loosening the hydraulic piston rid end bits at either end under the aluminium table end pieces then lifting said table off.
The bearings are pressed into nylon strips which you can buy in a roll from good bearing supply companies.
Cannot just remember, but the taper bearings might be C3 spec that have a greater clearance to allow them to be present to run at higher pads and speeds.
The hydraulic oil tends to get fouled up quite quickly with grinding debris.
That manual you bought should tell you most daily stuff.
Oh, check the amount of vertical wear in the fixed but for the vertical lift screw accessible from the tall rear panel.
Wear and tear on parts will just all depend on how accurate you want to get.
If you can get the wheel spindle bearing specs your bearing supplier could probably get you the best up to date type of oil to use.
This is awesome information thank you so so much!!
I love when the internet internets for good 😇
The old German machine probably meant the lamp oil kind of kerosene instead of the cleaning-solventy kind of kerosene which again is different from the kerosene planes use as fuel. Gotta love old, ambiguous nomenclature....
We have kerosene in the uk which we refer to as “heating oil”, which is more like diesel than any cleaning solvent
@@CA-gy4qf We have both in the UK. The lamp stuff and heating oil is usually red or purply in colour
The cleaning stuff (white spirit) is usually clear in solvent form.
^ this. i am sure. it teh oil type they were using as that makes far more sense.
@ I was unaware white spirit was kerosene! I stand corrected
@@MaNNeRz91oh the red and purply stuff brings back memories from my dad working on engines and other equipment
"I need to work on my jumpiness"
No. No you don't. Keep that fear of machines. That will keep you from being killed by one.
I was so glad he was out of the was as the table started moving..
Yeah especially as the number of machines that will have no problem seriously injuring somebody has like doubled in the last two videos (and he hasn't unboxed the water jet yet).
I literally got jumpscared when that happened lmao
Never not be afraid.
WeaponKing is right. You treat those machines like a venomous snake. As long as you handle them with extreme caution, you're relatively safe. The moment you get too comfortable or forget to respect them is when they decide they're going to kill you. I'd rather be jumpy every day on film than be missing fingers or worse.
I don’t think I have ever commented on your videos, but can I just say as someone who has never done any type of blacksmithing just enjoys mechanical engineering style work? I have been watching your videos for the past five years and still to this date never picked up any type of blacksmithing equipment. I dig your videos, man you’re doing great work.
Thank you!!
I’m the same, been watching since I was a kid. Am now in school for mechanical engineering.
Love you Alec!
same and the videos are nicely educational it's nice
Totally! It's so nice to watch someone do something they're passionate about. I'm pretty new to the channel and I know nothing about engineering, but it's still super interesting!
I work as an Electrician and had something similar happen to a surface grinder, where it would pop a fuse over a certain rpm.
The reason for it was freaking arcing within the motor to a grounded screw because of coal dust built up (from the brushes) and maybe improper Hardware/Repair (Long screw). The fix after figuring it out was easy, shorten the screw and clean up the inside of the motor, and while I was at it, I replaced the brushes because they nearly didn't exist anymore.
Hiii Alec 😊 im an electrician from Norway. So quick tip about the fuse. You can actually change it to a modern one with the correct amps. The reason it's only four amps is because it only powers the control panel. If you have any questions that needs an electrician im here 👍🏼 happy to help
yea, but now he's invested in old porcelain fuses!
but jokes aside, just rip the fuse box out and put a modern din rail in with two normal four amp fuses, depending on the electronics you might need slow triggering ones rather than the normal ones
W guy
Im a industrial electrician from Belgium, just here because I love to see people thinker with these old machines. And just like Mariusgiik always ready to help out. 😉
You need to let air into the grinding room. That's why it's sucking your door open. Drill another 2 holes in the wall where you want your fresh air to come from.
They make door vents that are one way. You just cut a square hole in the bottom, and the kit that comes with them has fascia to cover it. They work for a whole variety of door thicknesses.
Drill two sets and install slide gate dampers, then you can pick whether you want to pull conditioned air from your shop or air from outside depending on the weather!
Hmmm, 76.2 mm just might be 3" imperial. Look for a US vendor of grinding wheels and you might find what you need.
It is exactly that
Norton sells such grinding wheels. Alec needs to work on his google-fu.
Coventry Grinders sell exactly what he needs. It’s where I buy all my consumables for the grinders
how does an english man that did all that he did in the states not realise it's an imperial measurement?
And that might just be 10x of the 7.62mm😊
Surface grinder owner here (I also had to rebuild my mag chuck). Before mounting your chuck for good you will want to remove it and grind the table in after you ensure your machine is perfectly level. I then took some light cuts on the bottom of the mag chuck to ensure it is flat, then I mounted the chuck and kept grinding until you have it largely cleaned up (if there is a dip in the top side just leave it be).
Something you would also want to do is get a current clamp so you can watch your motor power draw. I saw people talking about bearing pre-load adjustment here, and monitoring the motor power would help you with the adjustment.
Something you are supposed to do (at least on some surface grinders) is to quickly pulse the motor and let it spin down a couple of times to help circulate the lubricant before turning it on and leaving it on. I don't have 3-ph power in my home shop, so I just added a pair of VFDs to my surface grinder which gives me a long acceleration (I think 1min), but also gives me a fast decel (I think 10sec without a dynamic breaking resistor).
Also, when working on the inside of a mag chuck, keep the magnets much further apart. If the end were to shift too close to another magnet assembly it could cause them to snap together which could fracture a bunch of the ceramic magnets as well as be very difficult to take apart without damage.
If the magnets snap together, there also is very real chance of sharp little magnet pieces flying around and in your face.
@@janoschk.5730 or trapping something unfortunate!
All good points!
I was thinking the same thing, as Inheritance Machining did the same mistake when he was working on an surface grinder.
IIRC the spindle thing is mostly for plain bearings where you would want to get lubrication spread and embedded before really letting it go for a long period.
The 25A label on the fuse socket is likely just the maximum rating of the socket. Doesn't mean that you need a 25A Fuse in there. 4A seem pretty low but that is porbably just a Fuse for a small part of the machine. The big fuses are the black cubes in the top row.
That kind of porcelin fuse used to be common in here in Sweden. The 25A is what that cap is rated for. Then the socket on the inside determines the biggest fuse that can be inserted. Higher amp fuses have a larger diameter front part, and won't be able to fit in a lower amp socket (which have a smaller diameter at the front than the higher amp fuse). A lower amp fuse can be inserted in a higher amp socket.
@@Esqofosd yeah this idiot should not be messing with electrics. he will burn down his shop someday
@@Esqofosd that is correct. I just left out the details and called the entire thing including the cap a socket to simplify it for people who don't know electronics as it seemed an unecessary detail for my point. Also you can replace the ring in the socket to make it fit bigger or smaller fuses but the 25A is still the max for the entire thing if you use no ring at all.
Yes absolutely correct. In Germany we have the Same. And i think 4 a is the right rating . It seems like they are for the Controlling voltage. 2 fuses ist pretty unusual for Motors because they need 3 fuses.
@@Esqofosd We actually had them in the house I live in in the Netherlands. They got replaced about a year or two ago!
I still have a couple in my workshop.
@AlecSteele Just some quick notes about your dust extractor...
1. Your extractor outside could be against fire code because you have a uPVC door rather than a fire door right next to it and if the dust extractor was too set on fire it would melt that door and could spread the fire inside faster than can be dealt with. You should also make sure you have a fire extinguisher close to the dust extractor. It might also be worth looking into an aftermarket fire suppression kit that you can install inside the dust extractor just in case!
2. For the ducting make sure you don't have many 90 degree corners, you need smooth turns to reduce the resistance.
3. Make sure you ground all of the metal ducting to remove static electricity as this can clog the tubes and cause fires.
4. Setup the internal ducting so you have ducts near each machine (out of range of most sparks) and install blast gates so it can increase the suction next the tool that you are using.
5. Remember arrestors are placed best closer to the tool that sparks and they require cleaning out!
The ducting connects to the extractor that is hopefully grounded already so no need to also ground the ducting. Metal dust are also not that flammable.
@@Dragonited It doesn't matter unit is grounded, you're still supposed to ground the metal ducting because static buildup can and will still occur because of airflow friction,
Metal dust can be extremely flammable, even explosive. It's generally less safe than non-metal dust! Aluminium dust is highly flammable/explosive, magnesium obviously is very flammable, titanium dust burns extremely intensely, zirconium is flammable and explosive and any other metal including steel with oil residue can be flammable.
Other than the metal dust it will always still collect other dusts which could be the initial ignition of a fire.
Also you have to think about galvanic corrosion which can happen in the ducting when the static causes dust to stick to the sides.
So the grounding throughout the run off ducting is much more important than you think.
You might want to check the fire strategy for your building. If that uPVC door you’ve partially obstructed with the extractor is an escape door/route, you might need to reposition it.
He mentioned last video that he got landlord-approval for putting this thing outside, and I doubt the landlord would have agreed to letting him obstruct an escape door.
@@Orillion123456 Burning to death in a building while saying "but the landlord said it was okay" typically isn't great for your health.
@@Orillion123456 I would think the Fire Department has many things to say about landlord's assessments of fire safety.
I'm so glad someone said something about that. My construction brain went 😐🫣 looking at the door clearance and "roof."
Don't forget to Ping the grinding wheel when you mount the grinding wheel. The Ping is a light tap with a small hammer. If you hear a Ping it's a good grinding wheel. If you hear a dull thud the grinding wheel is cracked and it can explode when you turn the spindle on.
And you DO NOT want a grinding wheel that big to explode.
A big wheel like that is enough to break through almost a cm thick aluminium casting and make shrapnel that travels (by bounce) with good force over two three meters. I've had one explode because of a mishap with the drive. It broke the cast iron housing in half, bent the M8 bolts like play dough and made several dents in the magnetic chuck along with the walls. I was safely tucked in the least likely place to get hit, down the axis of rotation, but had someone been in the room with me, "down wind" i've no doubt that would've caused severe lacerations. It's a huge amount of force just begging to let loose. Tools demand respect and give none back.
It's also a ring test not a ping test.
Hey Alec! Heating engineer here, Kerosene has changed composition over the years, particularly the last 5 or so. We had a big thing a couple years back with oil pumps on burners burning out and after long conversations with manufacturers it was concluded that kerosene is no longer as lubricating as it used to be. So that’s probably why it called for kerosene, because it used to be much more lubricative.
That was my first thought, maybe use Diesel or heating Oil , proper lightwaight oil should be best
Yeah i thought it was strange i bet alternative exists.
Ikke og the reasons that kerosene is less lubricating than before, is due to more stringent emission rules. This means that at the refinery were kerosene is distilled, they purify it more removing a lot of the aromatics and lubricating impurities.
hey alec, something ive thought about since last video, the grinding room extractor could benefit from some ducting on the ceiling that goes across the room and pulls from across the whole room from some vents or something like that. this would hopefully make the air filtration a lot faster as it wouldnt have to pull everything over to one side of the room to the intake port on the extractor, and instead filter from across the whole room and then through ducting to the extractor
Great idea!!!
As long as the inlets and outlet run to the same loosely sealed room, and the machine doesn't rely on creating turbulent flow to agitate airborne particles enough to move them into the vaccum cone, that's probably a good idea.
Even better would be to create slightly elevated secondary floor with holes and connecting the extractor there. That way heavy dust will just fall down and be captured instead of trying to lift it. Just like in the cleem rooms.
@@AlecSteele
Would it not be better to draw dirty air from the floor, and introduce fresh air near the ceiling/top of the door?
Maximise the amount of fresh clean air in the top half of the room - where you breathe.
With a magic chuck, basically what happens is the magnets are set up in banks so that when you operate the lever it pulls them so their fields are opposite phase and mostly cancel it out. Then when you turn it on they align so that they amplify the field. Pretty cool to learn about
Thanks for that! I always had figured they used electromagnets and was somewhat shocked when he opened it up.
I wonder what exaclty did with replacing the first magnet with the THICC bronce bushing. I mean perhaps on that side there is a thin line of slightmagnetic force that cant be fully turned off because the counter-magnet meant to cancel it out is missing, but what i am more worried about is if Alec did make the bronce bushing exactly the thickness of the magnet, or if he made it a little bit thinner in order to have more rod to work with.
If its not the exact same thickness i would assume everything is aligned perfectly which might mean the chuck can never fully be turned off or/as well as the pulling force when turned on might not be as strong as you might need it to be.
Or maybe magnetic fields are just so tollerant that a tiny misalignment doesnt actually mean anything and the fields still form and interact perfectly fine, i am really no magnet expert.
Quick tip for that electrical cover screw being trapped: Slot the cover so you can simply slide it off like an electrical box.
Bloody smart idea!
@@AlecSteele I stole it. Lol
Now this is engineer thinking.
@@ManiacRacing engineers try to use as little original thought as possible. use proven methods you are not an architect. dont go re inventing the wheel when you can use a wheel.
stealing ideas is what engineering is.
better yet, rotate the motor 90 degrees so the terminal box is on the top
These episodes that almost purely combines, electrical, mechanical engineering is really awesome. Even as a software engineer they are sooo interesting to watch!
Hey Alec when you don't want to exchange the ultrasonic cleaning fluid for a smaller part put the part in a plastic bag and so only the fluid in the bags get dirty
Love that you referenced Kertis and Karen (not to mention Homeless)@ Cutting Edge Engineering one of my favorite Friday morning (UK) releases
Same here. I catch CEE's stuff on FB. He does great stuff, and pup footage is a great addition.
About the fuses: It's an older system. The 25A refers to the maximum that this fuse assembly can handle. If You look inside the assembly however, there is a ring with the same diameter as the smaller contact of the broken 4A fuse. If you look at it, there is probably a 4A indication aswell. These rings can be swapped to accomodate stronger fuses. Without switching out the receptables however, they won't fit because they have an intentionally bigger diameter.
However, I would strongly suggest to not do that unless You know exactly what You're doing. Just upping the fuse can be dangerous and even cause fires.
Great info thank you! The ring inside the fuse holder said 6a!
i was a bit surprised that those fuses aren't... a common thing? Here in Sweden they are in allot of old houses/barns, you can even buy em at the grocery store. I got some in my barn even ^-^ even tho the house and main's are modern switch fuses now, as they aren't up to modern standards.
Fun old farmer trick my grandparents did was if the fuses kept blowing, just jam a 6 inch nail in there and it works with only a "Slight" chance of electrocution and fire :D
... Yea don't do that.
The tolerance of filament fuses is so wide a couple amps isn't going to make a meaningful difference. Unless those are some kind of special precision fuses.
It's an older system, but it checks out.
@@1pcfred It's more of the i²t that's the problem. Higher amps fuse tend to break later for the same current, so there's more risk of overcurrent (and breaking other parts) before the fuse trips.
You did a really good job cleaning up and getting that surface grinder working. I’ve spent a long time cleaning up the surface grinder I inherited from my grandfather and as you figured out with your machine, it’s not easy. It was definitely a smart move to try to fix the mag chuck rather than buy a new one, a new quality one of that size would probably cost around £4000. One thing I would highly recommend doing is grinding the bearing surface that the mag chuck sits on, there’s no guarantee that it’s still flat, and especially with the machine having been transported it’s a really good idea to grind that in before you put the mag chuck on top of it.
In fact it is very common for those spindles to run on kerosin or petroleum. Stay with Kerosin, because it is engineered to use that. Important to know would be if your spindel is a rollerbearing-based or a plain-bearing based one. Your manual suggested a roller one, but those don't stop and sease that quickly(in my experience). The root of your problem is most probably that your bearings are adjusted too tight and generate too much heat and thus expand and sease. On the side of your spindel you can see two adjustmentscrews that tighten and loosen your play of the spindelbearing(it is a really fine adjustment(sometimes 0.002mm per revolution). You have to loosen them until your spindel no longer seases.
This is great info thank you! I was scared to play with the bearing adjustment too much, I was nervous incase it would be possible to unscrew something too much and drop a component, is there any risk of this?
@@AlecSteeleno problem. It depends on the design, but if you want you can send me your drawings of the spindel and I could have a look. But in fact dialing in the adjustment takes some time and can be quiet frustrating.
@@AlecSteele All you're doing is adjusting the preload. Worst than can happen(within reason, and being reasonably sensibly) is that the spindle goes loose.
@@AlecSteele Also with plain bearings you are always at risk of gauling your bearings if you run them dry, with the wrong lubricant or to tight(equivilent to without lubricant) but as you said, parts propably wont fall out
Had the Same machine at my old employer, we used kerosene for lubricant like the Manual suggests for years. Our spindle kept turning like 30 Seconds after turning of the spindle Motor, granted with a wheel installed, so more inertia. Seems plausible your bearings might be too tight
I found the kerosene thing very interesting and i did some research. It seems that during the time period the grinding table was designed, kerosene production was not as efficient as it is today. this means that kerosene you would have had back then would have more oily products in it and would have a higher lubricity. Essentially, it would have worked as a very, very light oil. If you wanted an oil lighter than anything off the shelf, then you might have used kerosene.
That would explain why kerosene is called for on the machine's tag (from the manufacturer) but modern kerosene is doing essentially nothing to lubricate the bearings. all that said, i would just the lightest oil you could find today. i'm sure there is a synthetic super light oil that would work fine (probably some kind of mineral oil)
Finally a longer format video we like! not the usual 10mins video jumps race.
I’ve watched your channel from early on, it’s amazing to see how much you’ve grown and learned in these couple years. It’s inspired me to go back to school for my own interests. Keep it up man, much respect.
You should have a way to route fresh air into the grinding room now that the dust extractor is sucking air out. If the room is sealed off, the dust extractor will stop sucking when the pressure in the room gets low enough, or it will just have a hard time or not be as effective as it could be.
YOU MENTIONED KURT FROM CEE>>>>>>I love watching Kurt, Karen and Homeless. Between you and them, you all kept me sane after my knee replacement surgery last year...binge watched CEE and Alec Steel whilst I was laid up.
Definitely a great channel.
CEE also had a guest in last weeks video. :)
@ Indeed, a quite savage guest!
I live about 2 km from where Kurt has his workshop, drive past it on my way to work.
He always looks very busy with things going on.Cheers from AU
Wasn't expecting a shout-out for CEE. But he has great content.
I’d love to see you do a collab with Inheritance Machining.
Would be awesome!!
@@AlecSteele I wonder if @mymechanics would come visit your shop and help you with some troubles - he could drive his 240Z there ☺
@@AlecSteele & @InheritanceMachining make it happen!!!!!
Wow. I don’t know how I lived without watching you for a couple months. I love how you bring back life to old machines, even though it can be very difficult you still do it with joy.
Handy tip on the ultrasonic. If you've got some grade A filth to put through it put the part and some solvent in a plastic bag (i use snap lock LDPE bags) then blast it with the ultrasonic. You only contaminate the little bit of solvent then not the whole bath. These days I mostly just use water for the bath and bag up whatever I'm putting in it. You can do a triple wash then and only use like 100ml of solvent for a handful of small parts. Can alternate them too, kero first, soapy water, then work your way up to IPA for a final polish and rapid dry.
So glad you didn't loose any fingertips with the mag chuck. Impressive restoration.
Really enjoying these Sunday evening uploads. They're a lovely remedy for the Sunday dread
I loved the peaceful, almost holiday music, while Alec was making the bronze washers; then suddenly "F*ck I dropped it." and the music continues without missing a beat XD
It’s Claire de Lune by Debussy, a piece synonymous with quiet elegance.
When dressing the circular cut out of sheet metal, you would be able to do it just with pressing it with live center against the chuck. It force would by enough to turn it easily, I turned that way even bigger pieces.
Glad to see that your wife made a cameo in video too! Love to see family involved with projects! Here’s wishing you to many more happy years together!!!
I feel that jumping back and screaming as a reaction to 800lbs of cast iron suddenly moving when you didn't expect it is a fairly reasonable reaction.
I worked on a shear for a few years, if you orient the light forward/reverse properly, the shadow cast from the top blade can be used as a guide line for your cuts. That’s all we ever used to line up our marks before the cut.
@AlecSteele at 3:54 that looks an awful lot like an expansion valve, to set the maximum operating pressure rather than to release pressure when it gets too high.
Love coming in to work each week to a new Alec Steele video.
Those fuses are standard domestic home fuses here (in older homes that is)
Denmark? But yea my house uses the smaller version, never seen those big ones aside from in stores.
Same here in Sweden. Usually 10 or 16 amps here though.
@@Nukle0n I can't confirm Denmark but can confirm they are still being used in the Netherlands. We have the smaller ones I think.
Yes, I still have them in my house in The Netherlands. Standard 16A per group and 3 25A fuses per phase.
You’ve quickly become one of my favourite TH-camrs! With your great sense of humour, incredible skillset and your engaging personality, makes for incredibly informative, educational and entertaining videos!!!
And now I want my own forge and machining equipment very badly lol
I’m VERY envious of your new Nepros tools! I was at SEMA 3 years ago and stopped at the Nepros tools booth. Nepros tools and tool boxes are not only amazing but also Beautiful. I still have the Brochure from them and flip through it every couple months. They feel and look better than Snap-On could ever be.
Snap-on is good enough for me. Heck Pittsburgh Forge gets the job done. I really don't care what tools look or feel like either.
Hey! I'm Michael and am the U.S. logistics and warehouse manager for nepros. Also, I'm the one that was able to get us to send those tools to Alec and I love that you like our tools. If you have any questions or comments, reply to this and I'll get back to you!
Also, I unfortunately wasn't able to get there that year bc of some stuff but I'd guess you met with Tetsu or Kaz.
Sorry for blabbering on btw, I'm just very excited for my first attempt at a 'sponsorship' with Alec. I've followed him for like 8 years on YT, so this is very cool to me and I'm thrilled that nepros is getting such a large shoutout.
I dunno, it may be a pain for you, but watching you go through the process of figuring out the issues and fixing them gives us so much insight into what these machines really are, how they operate, and the engineering challenges that come with designing and maintaining them, which is tremendously interesting. Love the work you've been doing recently with all of these beautiful machines.
0:39 I hope you saved that brick from the hole you cut out. It will make your landlord very happy.
These are some of my favourite videos, Alec fixing machines, the chambersburg, the stanko, original surface grinder 😂 love these so much. I need a whole Alec fixes stuff series!
OHNO! the amps written on the fuse holder is maximum current capacity for the holder! The 4A fuse is probably correct!
A 6 Amp fuse is fine too. How calibrated do you think filament fuses are? Maybe you should find out. What you discover will likely surprise you.
One of your best videos! Love seeing broken machines come to life and seeing how it’s put together.
That deburring handle is quite beautiful!
I really admire how you just keep going when you face a problem. Well done!!! 👏🏻🇩🇰
I'm not an expert, but if you plan to grind without a helmet now that you have that extractor, you might want to get an adjustable hose/hood you can position to suck the stuff out more efficiently.
This channel is always So Fascinating and Entertaining.
Cheers to both you Alec & Jamie.
Good job mate. However it might have been better to elevate that dust extractor a few inches up off the floor (with concrete slabs or even timbers) so it's not getting moisture direct from the floor being outside like that.
Sends me back in time to when I spent many years working in similar workshops with all these types of of machinery and it’s great to see your enthusiasm and skill nice one
F***ing dropped it!😂😂😂( 27:00)
Was about to comment about this 😂
Great video mate and love those tools from Corin Urquhart i have a set and use them all the time enjoy your workshop 🔥⚒️😎👍👍
Glad the missus got a mention in over a year..
Few questions marra.
1. How’s the house reno coming on? Or have you moved back in to the workshop.
2. Is the colab with Colin furze you were gonna do before the move to Montana gonna happen now you’re back in the uk?
Love the vids! (Jaime, keep doing your thing bud!)
These are without a doubt some of the most enjoyable of your videos I have ever seen - So cool and interesting seeing your process of cleaning and restoring these machines
When you gamble; "The house always wins."
Fallout reference? 😂
Ah, I see you're a man of culture as well
@@cellandavies-harding4662 Might be, but its also a very common saying in gambling
99% of gamblers quit before they hit big
@@cellandavies-harding4662 possibly but its also a common saying
Starting watching your channel about 7 years ago. The way you expand your smarts leave me in the dust
It a really old tool. This kerosene is not that kerosene. They were probably referring to Coal oil actually, not the today`s Kerosene A1 type of liquid
Love to see where the channel is going, and love the longer format videos. I'm always down for watching 30 minutes. Love what you do, keep it up. Been watching for years, and will continue to watch. Can't wait to see what comes next.
Funny addition to your discussion about whether it is a spanner or a wrench: in Germany we call them "Engländer" which means Englishman 30:29
Thants because we have put a ‘spanner in your works’ a couple of times. 😂🤣
Be sure to make all fittings on the dust extractor as air tight as possible to not lose suction power for the room!
26:30 “I don’t understand the obsession with aluminium…” Because it’s a magnetic chuck, and steel moving parts will magnetic up and stick together and bind and gall?
Was looking for this comment
But bronze is better.
to be honest, I did think of bronze…but not until long after I posted
@@danielbender4327 if bronze was cheaper we'd use it a lot more than we do. But it isn't, so we don't.
Impressive surface grinder, low spindle speed, and low surface speed is preferable for working on Titanium , ref its low thermal conductivity compared to ferrous.
Great auction haul.
Thanks for sharing
So, big problem with the extractor, you have no air inlet to equalize pressure, your gonna just dead head and not extract anything. And possibly back draft any gas heaters you may have in the building. You should probably look at this sooner than later.
IIRC Kerosene is one of those substances that is very place and time dependent. The kerosene we can buy today is much purer and cleaner burning than the old stuff that might have worked perfectly as a lubricant, but no longer.
the spindle seized at high speed because it had no weight on it. Like lifting a car off the ground and mashing the accelerator.
I have a small shop at home where I have plenty of tools and milling machine and metal lathe but the equipment you’re getting in is making me jealous. Good for you. Love your videos.
Beautiful dog as well
Ive been taught the basics of mag chucks from my classes in machining, but to see how one works and the pieces that make it up in action is neat af.
To clarify, I have used mag chucks on surface grinders, just not seen one disassembled and fixed.
10/10 video I love watching you upgrade and work on your new shop tools, and I cannot be alone in saying that. Your very entertaining, funny, and smart and it's always a blast to see a new video!
11:37 same.
@AlecSteele, loving your videos specially experimenting with stuff and learning new things. i like how you take us through your process of repairing and fettleing your "new" machines.
1:56 as a 45 year old I gotta say, growing up is overrated! 😀
Definitely one of my top 10 videos, I enjoy watching you take on a challenge and learn about a new machine and just jump into it!! also I like the length of this video!!!
18:23 did he say „the Motor is kaputt“ like the german word for broken?😂
Yes. It is a common loan word used by the English language.
Thanks for the information mate i didnt knew that. Im german and i was like „am i trippin or did he speak german?“😅
24:26 - I woulve TRIED to keep the end magnets cool, and then weld on some extra threaded bar, and then tidied it up so that you had a little extra (and thus decent) thread to make a secure fixture... 🤔🤔🤔😎🇬🇧
The Curie temperature of ferrous iron magnets can be as low as 800 degrees. I wouldn’t risk it.
this is now almost an unboxing channel.
Love these videos! Super cool to see you take some old and forgotten machines and give them a massive new lease in life! Great amount of info and attention to getting things done right!
should've gambled harder :(
99% of gamblers give up before their big win!
I'm really happy to see so many new smiths! The old tools are awesome. Making tools to make tools is awesome. Can't wait to see what's next. Be safe, and happy smithing!
in the USA blocking that door would be a no no.
It's an open in door, so not blocked.
If this were a professional shop in the UK it would also be illegal. I think it may be legal here because it's essentially a private shop. Alec has no employees, and is free to take the risk to block the door himself.
@@jamesbedwell8793 What is Jamie, chopped liver?
We're about to fix all those nonsense regulations. Make sweatshops great again!
I too am a fan of Kurtis, at Cutting Edge Engineering. I just saw Adam Savage (Mythbusters) visit his workshop in Australia. Kurtis is a great teacher, when it comes to machining, fitting, turning and welding.
Maybe there is a centrifugal clutch which stops the motor from getting too much speed? Also, for the love of god, get some Knipex parallel pliers, you will adore them.
Btw, the blades on that stomp shear can be adjusted. When you have it right, it should be able to cut a single sheet of notebook paper.
13:40 And then Alec started an OnlyFans
The big black boxes in the electrical cabinet are motor protection switches. They simply trip when the rated amps are exceeded.
Often times these old ones shift over time and trip too early. I had to replace a bunch in my milling machine, because they kept tripping. Put in new, modern ones with the correct amperage settings and its been good ever since.
Regarding the grinding spindle: I really hope the bearings are okay. It would be well worth the money to bring an expert in and take a look at it!
If the spindle just needs to be adjusted, thats fine. If it breaks and needs to be replaced -oh boy oh boy! Not good!
The spindle just stopping mid-run because the bearings are seizing scared the crap out of me!
Keep up the videos!
Honestly I absolutely love you go by "if it's old and works use it." I've lived by that for years but with fixing old cameras.
I always love when you make videos on repairing old machines
I have the exact same machine in my workshop but I have never used it 😂 glad to see atleast somehow that thing works.
It's such a pleasure to watch you work and solve problems. You're one of the best engineers on TH-cam and this definitely the best channel. Thanks mate
These longer videos are what I have been asking for ever sense I found your channel. Tha k you for these amazing videos. You an jamie are the best
I quite enjoy these longer form videos! Thanks for sharing the process with us!
So so excited for all the new videos to come once it's all decked out. The possibilities are completely endless 👏🫡❤️
Again, I absolutely love the videos of you fixing the machining items great content!!
The fuses are pretty standard, but the head says 25A, which is the absolutely maximum value for a type 2 fuse (there's a type 3 that's physically larger), however what you need to do is to look at the bottom of the fuse well to see what kind of bottom restrictor that's installed.
Now you need some of those AvE stickers "This Machine Predates Safety".
LOVE this long video format! Please do more!