Top 5 Dumbest Ways to Build in the South
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ค. 2024
- Huge Thanks to Dr Joe Lstiburek and Building Science Corp! See the white paper this video was based on here below. Also, consider their Building Science Training classes or Training from constructioninstruction.com Both have excellent training. Here's the links I mentioned in the Video:
Top 10 Dumb Things To Do In The South
buildingscience.com/documents...
Unvented Roofs
buildingscience.com/documents...
Unvented Crawlspaces
buildingscience.com/documents...
Brick Base Wall Flashing
• Flashing before Brick ...
Stucco with an Air Gap Behind
• Prevent Stucco Failure...
Brick Details
mattrisinger.com/brick-waterpr...
/ risingerbuild
www.mattrisinger.com
Huge thanks to our Show sponsors USG/Tremco, Polywall, Huber, Dorken Delta, Prosoco, Marvin Windows, Rockwool & Endura for helping to make these videos possible! These are all trusted companies that Matt has worked with for years and trusts their products in the homes he builds.
www.Securockexoair.com/en.html
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I've spent 47 years in the construction industry in Florida, 40 of those years as a residential contractor. Florida is one of the toughest states to get a contracting license, you don't just walk into the local municipal office and hand over your money and they give you a license. You have to prove experience and then take a very tough test, at least 2 days and in some cases 3 eight hour days long. Then you have to take continuing education classes to renew your license every two years. Things change, and I don't know if it's comical or tragic that so many "contractors" or those with years of experience cannot except what this man is telling you. I understand that for years it was beat into us that we absolutely must vent our attics. It's hard to wrap you head around the concept of a non-ventilated insulated attic. Even years after we were being taught in our continuing education classes of this "new" (this was being taught over 15 years ago) method, my local municipality was requiring a certain amount of attic venting. Just as an aside, I remember the first house I built that used what they called "off ridge venting" to satisfy the local inspectors. I went up on the roof and stuck my hand, and then my whole arm into this 1' x 4' off ridge vent into the attic space. I wondered "What's going to stop a hurricane from blowing water into the attic?" Answer: Nothing! As over the next few hurricane seasons we learned. Fortunately now they have come to accept the non-vented insulated attic concept and all of the large tract builders use this and most of the custom home builders too. Again, I know some of you just cannot accept this and never will. Unfortunately many of you will be building an inferior product for your customers because of your unwillingness to change. Putting your a/c ducts carrying cool dry air into an attic with 150 degree, 90 percent humidity air is a disaster waiting to happen. When done properly a non-vented insulated attic will not have any moisture problems and will be a huge improvement to the overall structure.
@Charles Dolly far more efficient. It keeps heat out of the attic so your a/c doesn't have to work as hard. Sealing air leaks is almost as important as insulation itself. Watch more of Matt's videos on the subject, they're very eye-opening.
And I can tell you by experience - we added a ridge vent and yes water gets in in really bad storms - have seen the wet rafters with repeated over the years where it runs the lowest point. But it’s the trash that comes in (no trees over my roof, not even near - except a crepe myrtle but no over the roof). My neighbors have maples with the winged things but they are a good 40-50 ft away but way up over their homes - and their leaves and pods, etc end up at my house and in the gutters growing lovely collection of maple trees. Makes me so mad. I cut down the trees over my house for this issue….
And the big issue is after living here 35 years now I have mice and possibly roof rats that get in in the winter. Maybe small squirrels. I’m now having to deal with this. Why don’t they net and put small hardware to close up the space.
Why because builders convinced me this was the way to go to keep my attic cool.
What does a non vented attic do to a shingle tile roof? I'm hearing it makes go bad much sooner. How would you fix that issue?
@@danieljenkins3382 You still vent the roof, basically you build out the framing completely encapsulated, and then build a vented roof on top of that enclosure. That would require a layer of sheathing as your standard roof, waterproofing membrane, then ideally foam board insulation, then if you have shingles you'll do 1x3 or 1x2 furring strips that create that air gap for you, sheathing on top of that vented at the top, then the shingles and ridge vent on top of that. That way, the sun beats down on the shingles, heats up the sheathing below, then hits that air gap, and foam board insulation stop it from working much further, and the hot air convection works that air upwards towards that ridge vent before it can push through the foam insulation board. So you still get your venting, but have the benefit of waterproofing below that two layers that's completely encapsulated, insulation below the venting, and not using your entire attic for that venting process.
@@moocowzrock Thanks for the info... Another question: how would you do this with a home built in 2015?
I worked with a guy who had solar panels installed on his roof here in Texas. He said one of the biggest resulting energy savers for him was that the solar panels blocked that direct sun on the roof. This helped moderate the residual temp in his house. Maybe we need to do a study on a two-tier roof system. And it might help as a hail-barrier in places it is a problem.
My grandparents had an ALL brick home in Atlanta. House was built in 1928. It was built on a vented crawl space, had a vented atic space and didn't have central air. It stayed fairly cool in the summer and warm in the winter. When we did some remodeling on the interior we pulled down some drywall to expose the exterior wall. Dry as a bone. Maybe its because builders in the 1920's knew what they were doing, cared about their work and wanted to build it right the first time even if it meant the cost was a little more. Don't get me wrong the home was not perfect and needed more work done to update the inside but it was a SOLID home and didn't have any of the problems that are expressed in this video.
Regulations in building materials may have affected that
the lack of HVAC helped a ton in reducing issues with mold, etc. back then.
Hahahahhaa... gotta love the dramatic effect as he lowers the pen down. Then a cut to another shot with some woman drawing.
I thought it was pretty funny too!
Especially considering he went down with his right hand and the person drawing is using their left hand lol.
I was about to say... aint NO WAY I'm taking home building advice from a man with hands like those lol.
EnviroHealth that’s not a left hand drawing lol
Ala Jimmy Fallon......
140 degrees.... hahahaha i took an IR thermometer into an attic here in oklahoma. I turned around and said, "Nope," when I read 175 degrees.
I was laughing when he said 120-130 degree attic temperature. 160 degrees easy. And when does the ground temperature get down to 50 degrees? Did he mean Celcius?
Ya I shot a roof deck with my ir camera in a heavy trees area. 185 degrees 0 ventilation
I dont think this guy has ever actually ever worked a day i his life... No doubt hes smart but, hes spouting a sales pitch.. "ducts shouldnt be in attic, ducts shouldnt be in crawl". Instead condition those areas" sure dude tight envelopes cause to many issues with air. Go teach a class somewhere nd stay out of builders way.
Anthony M uh, I think you need to do some research. This guy is an amazing builder and has been for a long time. He’s done the work and builds some of the best houses in the country. Before slamming someone you obviously know nothing about, get your facts straight cause it makes you just look foolish.
Yuma AZ changed out an A/H in an attic under a shingled roof and it was 180 f
Built my dream home a year ago, sealed attic, dry and sealed crawlspace, foam insulation, metal roof, Hardy board siding. 100% happy with the results.
I don't know if I can trust a man that doesn't know the difference between a taco and a burrito.
When I go to Taco Bell of Del Taco and ask a question about an item all I hear is taco, taco, taco, taco.
Yep. I'll give him a pass since this is not food related.
the terms taco and burrito are applied differently in different areas of the county ......but this isn't a food video
@@paulbrunner72GenX Where? What city could I go to where a taco is a burrito or a vice-versa?
I've been all over this country & have eaten at dozens of Mexican restaurants, taco stands, food trucks & have never ordered a taco & gotten a burrito or vice-versa. There's many styles of tacos (hard shell, soft shell, puffy, deep fried) & at least 2 styles of burritos--but the twain never have met in my experience.
Or a fajita from a chalupa. Lol
This explains why my brick house all along the lower perimeter has purposely missing mortar to allow breathing every couple of feet. Learned something new.
Brick is not waterproof...........allows moisture to weep out.
Having lived in the South most of my life and being in the HVAC business for the past 15 years we have seen major improvements in building. I agree with sealing the attic - however - since most of the duct work is in the attic what we and many other builders and hvac companies do is to crack a vent off the supply side of the duct work which pressurizes the attic and prevents the system from trying to pull in outside air. The insulation is normally open cell foam up against the roof with no insulation on top of the sheet rock. This will normally keep the attic temp within 4-8 degrees of the conditioned space and control humidity at the same time. The plus side is the duct work is now in conditioned space which can decrease the equipment size by 1/2 ton or more. This can be proven by running a load calculation on the home (which should always be done) and you can see how it affects equipment sizing. On some homes with all foam insulation and very good windows the load calculation has come up as high as 1100 square feet per ton (so much for the rule of thumb 600 square feet per ton). In an all foam house we require the builder or customer to have a whole house dehumidifier installed with fresh air exchange or we walk away from the job. In the spring and fall the system will not run enough (because the house is so tight and will maintain the set temperature) that humidity will increase in the house and cause problems.
Sizing the system in a situation like you are talking about is key.
Very interesting, thanks for sharing this info
Excellent info, thank you.
You really make the case against insulating the attic with foam. In high humidity, the hot roof in contact with cool attic air will cause condensation under the foam and the roof sheathing will rot. It only takes one small area to cause a major problem. This video could cause a number of lawsuits.
@@flfl3969 He mentioned using open-cell spray foam, which is vapor permeable. The open-cell spray foam also acts as a radiant barrier, which reflects the heat back up towards the roof deck. Therefore, the majority of the heat does not make it to the colder side in the conditioned attic. For these two reasons, condensation is not an issue, unless the spray foam was installed incorrectly. - Also interesting food for thought since you mentioned lawsuits: The majority of homes I see being switched from a vented attic to a sealed attic were ironically the result of a lawsuit against the builder because of their vented attic system causing issues. So it seems to be the other way around in my experience.
Yeah, I had an attic that was unvented. Had been since it was built in the thirties. I had a new roof put on back in the nineties and told the roofers to put it back like it had always been, assuming that was proper. WRONG no venting cooked the damn shingles off the roof in 12 years. I'm talking crumbled in my hands. I put the last roof on myself and I put the ridgevent and vented soffits and no more problems. If they are vented properly, insulated properly, and installed properly there is no reason for any problems later on down the road.
kirby lane update this post in 12 years just to be sure, I’d like to see if they still cook or not.
@@derrickroberts93 he did the right thing by venting the house like he did. Remember that everything has to breathe. Such as your self, car, house, pets, and tubs and toilets well you get what I mean. The way it was before he fixed it, the house was unable to breathe correctly. Have a great day Sir.
Was former contractor,
Vented areas VERY important.
This guy makes a great politition.
5000 home inspections later, unvented attics in Florida all have failing roof systems unless metal or tile. Worst are the reflective barriers in attic rafters that can deteriorate architectural shingles in as little as 7 years. Similar with unvented crawl space. The unrelenting high humidity of Florida soil will rot your joists withing 20 years even if a vapor barrier was applied on the ground or the joists. Florida crawl spaces have to be vented.
So much nope in here... I'm a home inspector, and the South has high humidity. Whether or not you vent your attic, warm moist air is going to find its way in. Small gaps, permeable layers, soffit and ridge or gable venting, it doesn't matter - unless you perfectly seal the attic and eliminate all points where air air can enter the space, humidity will find its way in. When the attic space cools off at night, that moisture is going to condense on the rafters or trusses, on the sheathing.... everywhere. This will happen whether or not the attic space is vented. The catch is, down the road, if there's not good air circulation to dry out the attic, the daily and seasonal cycles of condensation and radiative cooling have a cumulative effect that isn't present in vented attics. The end result? Mold in unventilated attic spaces.
Also, why are you telling us that it's "basically the same construction type" between the 1970s house and the 1 year old house, when the 70s house obviously has trusses and the new house obviously uses a rafter and collar tie design? I know you're not trying to sell us on rafters vs. trusses, but overall, this sounds more like someone trying to sell something to the average consumer that might not know the significance of sealing their attic.
Can't get past your "first stupid mistake" to be bothered with commenting on the rest.
So I live in the south and have the type of attic he doesnt suggest...house built in 1992, but it pretty much looks like the "new house". I also have a ventilated crawl space, with some plain vents, and the automatic ones that come on when it's a certain humidity or temperature, and a dehumidifier in the crawlspace. I recently saw something with the spray foam insulation and got super excited about it...are you saying that it isnt a good idea to do that in the south?
Why would you suggest that moist air condenses to water when the roof “cools” off at night. This is possible only when those surfaces get below the dew point of that air mass. When you state it this way you are saying that the vented attic design supports the condensation of water to liquid in the attic on those cold surfaces. I hope this isn’t true because there wouldn’t be too many homes still in tact south of Arkansas. They would have all rotted to the ground. By sealing out that air to begin with you prevent the moist air from entering the attic to begin with, so that attic space becomes air that is actively managed rather than not, and the humidity is physically removed. There will always be some point where that warm humid air mass exists, but the key is to never let it touch a cold surface, because that is the point where condensation will happen. A properly sealed attic doesn’t allow that cold surface to ever touch the warm humid air, so thus, no condensation.
A ventilated attic is the attic that allows the condensation, not the other way around. Yet people are missing this. And paying a huge price for continually having to remove a massive amount of moisture as condensate in their a/c units, and having a much higher humidity level in their homes, supporting the growth of more nasties and mold itself. That’s why your average hotel room in a humid warm climate stinks of mold, because of cyclic humid and heat followed by rapid cooling (occupancy changes) and the air is never allowed to stabilize at a lower, dryer condition.
@@tabithaforbes775 Spray foams can have toxic outgassing issues. Houses breath from the bottom, and so air constantly enters your house from the crawl space via structural air gaps. If you have toxicity in the crawl space, you will be breathing it. Also, I have seen that foam is highly flammable. Thus, if a plumber needs to use a torch under the house ( as I recently had done ) he could easily set your house on fire.
This guy also hasn't researched shingle manufacturers that are not honoring warranties with spray foamed or "conditioned" attics. It's literally cooking the shingles and killing the life of them resulting in a much shorter lifespan for the shingles.
You need to vent in order to reduce moisture unless you have a mechanical source to keep air moving.
In Texas I have been in attics over 180 degrees. Simple solution was to add thermal reflective barrier under the rafters. Done properly with good ventilation it works very well. It stops radiant heat from moving to the AC components in the attic. In Texas we also use it above attic insulation to stop radiant losses in Winter.
Upon proper installation we can see the attic temperatures reduced to about 3 degrees above ambient temperatures. In other words average of 95 degrees mid summer days. Proper sealing and R8 ducting will create a fairly efficient AC system even in the attic.
I agree that fully sealing the crawl space and attic is the BEST option EXCEPT;
1.Excessive cost to the client for either open cell or closed cell foam.
2. Codes will NOT allow sealed crawl space UNLESS there is fire department access available as if it was a finished basement (walk in).
3. Any failure or misunderstanding of building science in sealing the attic and especially the crawl space in hot humid environments is asking for a structural disaster of high magnitude. In other words in only two to five years one can cause structural collapse by improper engineering of such a change due to wood destroying organisms.
4. In almost EVERY state the "contractor" or "engineer" is only responsible for faulty deign and work for a period of ONE year. This means that major changes to existing homes are OWNER's RISK ONLY even if they paid huge amounts for the engineering and even more for the actual work.
Summation:
for existing homes it is better to use other methods than to attempt conversion to current best practices.
Great, in my new-to-me 1996 Fort Worth home with an non-ventilated, incredibly hot attic, I thought I had an answer. And you say no, don’t seal and insulate. But yet to open up and vent would be dumb. Now more stuck than ever.
I have said this for years...why not a sheet insulation against the bottom of the rafters and vent the roof between the sheet and the roof sheathing, in the space between the rafters???
that is a known practice as long as the bottom and top are open. the only problem is if a leak occurs it is hard to find without tearing the sheet off.
I plan on doing this after installing a new metal roof. I have a gable 11/12 pitch roof...& the 2nd floor is always hot during the summer. May I ask what type of sheet would you use? I was thinking of a aluminum on both sides of foam type-sheet.
A shed built without ventilation will readily demonstrate the need for ventilation. It's good to hear a "southern" distinction, as either predominate climate has its tendencies.
Questionable construction ideas and sexual orientation... hmm. You may be onto something.
Brick can be waterproofed with a siloxthane clear waterproofer and it will take on no moisture at all. The waterproofing cannot be seen or detected. Functional weep holes and using Tyvek instead of the off-brand housewrap also helps a lot.
Just what I was about to say. Here in Brasil we use bricks or concrete blocks everywhere, and waterproofing is essential, easy and cheap. And then you can also add waterproofed stucco on top and some water resistant paint if you want.
I’m in Minnesota if I insulate my hip roof do I need to leave space between insulation and the plywood when I attach it directly to the roof instead of the joists?
Crazy how when you start drawing your hair grows and your nails are painted. Weird!
Ha! Subtle joke but you caught it. Don’t tell anyone but I can’t draw!
i noticed that too. lol
and become left-handed!
Lol!
AWESOME GREEN SCREEN!!!
Are there any good hvac contractors in your area. Long run of flexible duct are signs of a bad installation
+1. Flexible duct is a sign of mental weakness. Do hard piping or go home.
@@parv888 hard pipe causes rust and more expensive. Flexible duct ran correctly is far more efficient, less time consuming, and cost less. Nobody runs hard pipe on residential applications after that trunk line anymore
Clearly Matt doesn't understand that the physics of dew point and condensation has not changed in the last 50 years. Unvented attic/roofs collect moisture no matter how well they are sealed off. Try Matt's technique in Houston, New Orleans or any of the humid Gulf Coast regions and watch how fast mold, mildew, fungus and rot sets in. Well ventilated brick does just fine. Calling this video a demonstration of bad techniques is ironic.
I live in southside of VA and neighbor did their house with a sealed conditioned attic and it fried her 40 year shingles after only 8 years .She had high quality shingles put on their roof and paid good money for them .The shingle company said they would not cover the warranty because it was caused by the builder sealing the attic .I sealed my crawl space and my duct work is down there .The walls down there are both insulated from the outside and the inside.But the crawl space is also 8 feet deep .
yup, OC has 50 year Premium Cool,duration shingles, require vented attics, or warranty is void, I just had them put on my house, roofer added vents to meet the required air flow on top of what was already there, the Shingles are also energy star rated, as they reflect some of the suns heat due to the minerals added to them, so you can also get a tax credit.
Isn't an 8ft crawl space called a basement?
Almost every house down here in south Florida is slab on grade.
There is nothing wrong with a PROPERLY vented attic and a PROPERLY vented crawl space. PS, in that second photo, I'd fire the HVAC guy if he installed a spiderweb of ducts like that for me. Vented crawlspace: you don't get moisture from air coming from the outside, you get moisture in the crawlspace from the ground. Vapor barriers help but the biggest thing a homeowner can do is to make sure water is draining properly AWAY from the house. Ducts in the attic: I'll admit it is not optimal, but sometimes, that's the only choice you have. Brick walls: Matt fails to mention that a fired brick has a "glaze" on the outside that is fairly impervious to moisture. The key to brick is proper installation with proper drainage. Stucco: I love how he rails against stucco and then an example where the window leaks. Newsflash: you didn't have a problem with stucco, you had a problem with the window.
Lee_CPA I was thinking the same thing I was like what the hell they got these things almost going around in circles and underneath and above and below and other one WTF was that guy thinking he must have gotten a lot of money for that insulated air ducting. He used a hell of a lot more than he needed to. I used to call idiots like that my job security before I was disabled. As I would come in that house and be able to tear them apart and get a lot of money out of the home owners of course I had pissed off a few of them because they may be their houses built by someone they know and I come in there and trash all their work that they did.
I agree, I have a 100 year old house with no mold in the crawl space, it was properly vented and there has never been a problem. The attic as well. Somebody knew something back then to avoid the problems Matt has addressed. But I do like the idea of insulating the attic to make it conditioned air space. I understand that there are problems with shortening the lifespan of the roof if you insulate it in the rafters. Anyone with knowledge of this?
When we added power vents to the roof and ventilated soffit, the power bill went from $400 a month to under $100 a month. The A/C used to run constantly during daylight hours and the temperature inside the house would hit 80. Now, we can keep it st a comfortable 72 degrees and the A/C runs maybe 10 minutes out of every hour during the day.
Wow! I can see that's a "downside" to your home and budget. I live in the south and there are plenty of dry days when dry air is vented into the attic and crawl space to keep them dry. There is a natural balance to humid days and dry days. The proof is under my house and in its attic.
It is like the video compares well planned non vented roofs to poorly executed vented roofs. Though it seems to me that non vented would be easier to make mistakes than vented. It also doesn't factor in that the roof lifespan is already drastically reduced from sun and storms.
Yeah, I'm a builder in the north and we always vent the crawl and attic. The reason we do this is not because we want to "cool" the space but because you need fresh air to prevent mold and dry rot. I would imagine that in the south you need venting all the more.
Basically yes. I'm not a builder but I am a cabinet maker who also owns a ranch in the coastal south, with vented attic and vented crawl space. House is fine after 30 years. Leaky old duct in the crawlspace has caused some problems but not nearly what they warn you will happen.
You always want your attic vented for the exact reason you stated even in the south. Ive never worked on a house that didn’t have a some sort of attic ventilation. I don’t know what this guys talking about. Never seen one problem caused by attic being ventilated
Definitely vent in south just because of humidity. Its everywhere, seal it in and your screwed.
I’m from the south. When they seal crawlspaces here. You also have to install a whole home Dehumidifier.
@@JBra1382 So I assume that the sealed crawl space and attic are dehumidified separate from the living space?
I wonder if any of the naysayers here actually took time to read the paper by Building Science Corp? Alot of these armchair experts on YT are making bold claims against a doctorate in Build Science
Not really. IBC codes require roof venting in most cases. Only a PE can overrule code requirements and he does so at the risk of losing his license. PHDs are wrong all the time.
Well science is self correcting so I guess we'll see if he's right in a few years.
Will the shingles get hotter because of the insulation is just under them? Will this reduce the roof life?
If you don't vent the crawl space won't that cause radon gas problems?
John Logiudice no John. What causes problems with Radon is having un-skinned hotdogs in the fridge.
Radon craves the skin of the dog!
The shingles are only getting heat from the sun with insulation on the ceiling of the attic so they last as long as they should. I live in Austin where Matt lives also and our code says venting the crawlspace must be done so I don't understand his thinking. My dog liked to lay under the skirting vent because of the cool air blowing from it!
We found a way around these problems. Our house was built in 1921. We have no insulation ,no Air-conditioning, and our home is climate controlled. What ever the climate is outside, that's what it is inside. Living like this in Florida is very interesting, especially raising a family in this home. They survived and now being grown, they tell me how well they do on hot summer days, when most people around them are trying to deal with it. It is just another day for them.
Love your videos. Good accurate knowledge and entertaining.
Matt. I am thinking of having spray foam installed on my brick house (retroactively). I have heard you can have the attic space completely sealed up or keep the ridge vent and eave vents. I understand that not completely sealing off the attic space with foam will reduce the effectiveness regarding energy. Couple questions. If you do not seal up completely, will the foam method still be a better choice than traditional products? Will it cause any additional problems not completely sealing it off?
I am in the same boat. Old brick house with a lot of layers. I have sealed under my floors with bubble foil still letting the crawlspace breathe. Walls filled with fluff celulose so I didnt have to redo all my drywall. Now I am installing radiant foil on the back of my roof rafters. All this for less than $2k.
I live in the south. My house was built in the 40s and is raised above the ground with just dirt underneath. There is no insulation under the floor. There is no insulation in the exterior walls (except where I've added it while repairing holes), I think we have the pink batting stuff in the attic and we have an attic fan to blow out moisture. It's apparently a warm/cold enough climate for whatever critters are crawling around up there (I hear them scraping around sometimes).
I also have ductwork in the attic because that was the only place to put it (being a single-level home). The idea of insulating the roof from the inside does sound like a good idea.
What are your thoughts on moisture barrier in exterior walls on houses in humid climates? I've seen some say it will trap the moisture in the wall and cause water damage and others say it's ok.
All these 'dumb' practices are standard methods of construction here in Oz. Project builders seem to love stucco in particular, and all I've ever seen used behind is is plain old foil-backed house wrap.
No eaves is also a big thing, so the summer sun hits your windows and heats up the house, meaning you have to run the air-con harder and longer.
Dumb and cheap. The builders generally don't care because the failure won't happen under warranty.
TheOneWhoMightBe
If the Yankees are dumb enough to buy the houses, I say let them waste their money so they can leave sooner.
Seriously. The guys that built my neighbor’s house in the South were so dumb they framed with a wrench, plumbed with a brush, and painted with a hammer...
TheOneWhoMightBe, when it all turns to custard though the Lawyers also drag down the Architect and Building certifiers. Same thing happened in NZ with the leaky house disaster $11 billion repair problem, James Hardies Lawyers have more money to defend than your average Mum & Dad home owner.
I disagree. Vented attics are the best option, IF there is no ductwork in it! Ductwork in the attic is the problem! Vented roofs are quite good at handling natural moisture transport issues, even when poorly implemented. But non-vented have a far greater potential for moisture issues because there is no easy way to get the moisture out. It can be done, but it's a lot easier to screw it up than with a vented attic.
I wonder what he has to say about covering the duct-work and air-handler with r30. It cut my electric bill last summer by about a $30 a month. Attic is well ventilated. I might make a vid of it someday. I keep testing idea to bring my bill down. Each year they raise the rates per kwh, and each year I find a new way to cheat.
I agree, an unvented roof in a humid environment is a recipe for ridge rot.
This whole video i wondered..... What's this shill selling? Venilated attic is a must for the south. Biggest problems we see are northerners coming in doing remodeling and not keeping enough ventilation. All ducting should be HEAVILY insulated. I'm still trying to figure out how heating cold air creates a vacuum. Warm air expands. Proper ventilation keeps mold away.
Glad to see I'm not the only one questioning that bit of "do not ventilate attic" advice. Haven't watched past that yet. Hoping for a followup clarification here from Matt addressing it.
Wait, what ? This video, leading with vented attics is the dumbest idea, is based on Dr Joe Lstiburek's Building Science info ? The same Dr Joe Lstiburek's Building Science info that says UN-vented attics are the dumbest idea ever ?
Here in the Desert Southwest, we have to use stucco (cementitious) or STO (elastomeric).
I don't see how the Delta Dry would work, as when we apply the Scratch Coat, we compress the stucco through the lath. It seems like that pressure alone would smash the Delta Dry and render it ineffective.
I guess to do it right, we 'd have to use some aluminum channel sheets or something.
The video mirror was cool. I honestly snapped out of home improvement mode there and was like - HOWD HE DO THAT lol
Green. Screen. Board.
22 years in construction taught me that people don't want it right they want cheap.
You need to find better clients.
The race to be bottom leaves everyone upset.
Talkin about Florida I see.
If All Home builders would follow correct proper building practices, home prices would climb, and home quality would as well.
I refuse to build for contractors that want it cheap. I only will work for those that want it right.
How you can build it "wrong", is there any inspection? Here in Finland if the house dont pass all regulations it has to be fixed, and the inspector needs to approve every step done when he or she gives a green light on the house.
Offtopic: Most of newly build houses which have problems, mainly mold, is because some idiots say that houses have to use less energy for heating because EU laws. They make new houses like plastic bags which lead problems caused by lack of ventilation. In Finland temperature diffrence in house air and outside can be easily 50 c or 120 f so ventilation must be really good.
tumiiiiii Wow, that's cold. What are the roof/wall R-values and window U-values used? I'd imagine ducted ventilation is required with those infiltration temperatures.
"Let me go back to the drawing board"
LMAO at the exaggerated arm movement.
As an HVAC technician in Houston, TX, I can tell you that working in an unvented attic is the most hellish thing you can experience in the heat of Summer. We recommend that our customers hire roofers to install ridge vents or attic ventilators to combat excessive attic heat.
Let's do some math: If the attic is 130F at 70% RH, why are you concerned about ventilating it with outdoor air, let's say at 95F and 70%RH?? It will dissipate the hot box effect in the attic, and there's no way the outdoor air will have higher humidity than the attic, unless it's raining, and then the temperature will be significantly cooler anyway.
Honestly, I am baffled. You live in TX? Please cut your losses and delete this video.
Dakota, I live in Houston too. AND I have over forty years in the trade. His idea of putting the insulation and vapor barrier encompassing the ENTIRE envelope is genius. NO AIR LEAKS. Make-up air passing thru a filtered and conditioned space and leaving outside air outside is the stuff of dreams for a competent HVAC mechanic. In Houston especially summertime electric bills would drop dramatically. As would winter bills. But the control of MOISTURE, i.e. the nasty condensation on every cooler than average surface would be the real win. Sweating registers a thing of the past. No more complaints of mold and mildew. New ideas aren't always bad. Computers? The safety, emissions and efficiency of newer cars and trucks? Cell phones. Did you ever carry one of the suitcase sized mobiles when on-call? Worthless if in a bunch of trees and heavy as all get outs. Tell me the cell phone wasn't a better idea. We have to open our minds, listen to the WHOLE story.
@@tomswinburn1778 no
This sealed attic would have to be air conditioned making the entire premise INVALID
@@robertpolkamp I've been in a sealed attic when it was 105 degree's outside with foam insulation on the roof, and it was barely 85 degree's in there. The 180 degree hotbox goes away completely. As far as cooking shingles, I can see that, but the point is, the hotbox makes cooling a house very inefficient, and I've been in multiple houses that can barely get below 80 because they're fighting the 150-180 degree temps in the attic.
Robert Polkamp False. I have my attic completely sealed with open cell foam insulation (not air conditioned). My house will NOT get above 75 in the summer because of it. And I live in Memphis, TN.
Hey Matt , since brick absorbs moisture , wouldn’t it be beneficial if brick was painted ?
The worst thing that you can do is seal your crawl space and seal your attic. Unless you have the vapor barrier and the foam insulation you will get mold like crazy. I have seen it first hand the moisture from the soil comes into the space and cannot escape.
That's probably because the space had no way of dehumidifying after the installation. The sealed crawl space should become a conditioned space with either an A/C and return air vent (to exchange conditioned air) or with a dehumidifier. Not claiming to be an expert, this is just from stuff I've read and installers I've spoken to.
Even if you seal a crawlspace perfectly, moisture will still rise up through the soil. Code requires ventilation or air conditioning of the crawlspace. Keeping moisture out of a crawlspace is practically impossible.
Brian Haygood if it is not ENCAPSULATED; meaning a vapor barrier sheeting covering the wall AND the ground (and taped of course) with close cell foam on the ceiling then it is NOT sealed perfectly. Encapsulation is the only way to perfectly seal.
When sealing a crawlspace ie blocking off the vents, you have to also install a dehumidifier since you just turned it into a conditioned space and requires airflow.
Thank you for your time and information, Matt. I really appreciate it.
What can I as a home owner do about my attic? I own the house and we are planning on keeping it for a long time.
Thanks,
How does conditioning your entire attic space 24-7 (that you don't live in) use less energy than the energy lost from ductwork in an unconditioned attic?
Agreed. Then what... air condition the air conditioner that's cooling your a/c? F dat.
Any tips on making existing homes with the mistakes you pointed out better? For a diy dad? I live in Louisiana and have a home with a vented attic, would love any help on how to make it more efficient. Thanks for any help!
put several turbines on your roof and make sure that there is plenty/enough intake air coming into the attic thru gable vents or vented soffits. With vented soffits you must make sure the air path is not covered with insulation , It's just like a car in the sun. With the windows rolled down a little bit it still gets very hot inside but with the windows rolled down all the way its much cooler inside.
Isn't venting an attic the same as cracking a window in a car in terms of reducing temperature?
Basically. Venting a roof is neccessary. I don't give a shit what this guy says.
@@itsoundzgood Agreed - I think hes promoting NON venting to get the roofers a more work. Baked - Curled - Dead shingles in 5 years instead of 20.
In conjunction with Soffit venting at the eaves, the point of ATTIC venting is to create CROSSFLOW and facilitate heat movement upward...there is a reason a POWER VENT on a roof reduces the temperature...Venting for a CRAWLSPACE is for moisture...venting in plumbing is for sewer gases and equalizing pressures for proper flow...this guy seems to think venting is a singular term applied across the board.
In the South, we have something you called a “radiant barrier” on every new construction. 1:48 (look closely to your left)
Venting an attic keeps it from super heating. Going above the ambient temperature of the outside roof.
About 5 years ago in the Florida panhandle we did an almost complete floor joist replacement in a house because the crawlspace wasn't vented. The wood rot and black mold present from the ground moisture buildup beneath the house hospitalized one of us and made 3 more sick before we got it finished. The finished job had a FAN VENTED crawlspace triggered by a humidistat to end further problems.
Why not have a sealed crawlspace using cleanspace? My employer specializes in sealing crawlspaces to remove mold and water. This method covers dirt and walls in 24mil plastic creating a barrier which is then paired with a dehumidifier for extreme cases.
Whereabouts on the panhandle? How tall was the crawl space?
As a remodeler, all I have ever wanted to do was spec or design builds like you @Matt Risinger I love watching your work go up. You represent the pinnacle of building craftsmanship. Another builder who lives to provide the absolute best product, as it is a matter of pride and responsibility. 5 years into my business, hoping to make the jump to more full builds soon!
The principles builders have used in the past to build in the south are 1. Save cost, 2. Save cost, 3. Save cost.....not much critical thinking went into it.
And the Yankees keep moving South and buying them...go figure
I was in the home building business for 25 years in the NE and FLORIDA...
Couldn’t compete with the low standards the production builders pas off as acceptable because I wouldn’t accept crap materials and design.. AND WORKMANSHIP!
Matt is obviously a higher end builder / : market guy..
When a home owner is given a choice between product A vs product B, he knows he is going to pay to get it done correctly...
The spec market, especially below 500K, can’t compete with best practices..
Matt grows glasses, shaggy hair and becomes left handed when he draws. Crazy.
Even get's fancy with some nail polish! ;-)
Matt - I’m in the process of designing our custom home and have a huge question. I’ve not been able to find anything as to spray foaming the roof deck and having a semi-conditioned attic. The builders we are looking at all spray foam the entire homes, but are also venting the attics slightly with the eves. Is this acceptable? Do I have anything to worry about with this design? I haven’t been able to find the magic answer to this question in the countless of hours I’m research.
I live in FL, we put a solar fan in our attic that vents out of the soffit, attic is now at least 20 degrees cooler.
Yeah, it's probably sucking air conditioned air from your house into the attic. Check out Matt's video about solar attic fans, not a good idea.
Brick installation, per the ICC standard and the brick institute, requires weep tubs placed at the sill plat line above grade, above all windows and doors and below the rowlocks at the bottom of the windows. Additionally, there is to be flashing in those locations to allow for moisture collection when the condensation collects and rolls down the house wrap. Additionally, a moisture barrier is required behind all masonry applications, brick or stone. The primary issue is ventilation; if it is trapped problems develop. As for attic and crawl space ventilation a concern is dealing with combustion air when you have gas fired appliance located in either area. Common elements for HVAC furnaces, which are gas fired and located in an attic or in a crawl space, require combustion air. When you encapsulate the area the combustion air problem comes into play and that can lead to carbon monoxide issues. Most houses today in the south are build on either a slab or basement. Crawl spaces, for the most part, are a things of the past. Just saying from as an ICC R5 inspector who has been doing this type of work for going on 18 years.
Joseph,
Thanks for your comments and insights
Only observation I would like to add is that when it comes time to make repairs, crawl spaces come in very handy. If moisture sealed properly and conditioned IMO, a crawl space or basement is the way to go
Well you ain't lying lol
I parked my van for 6 months in Southeastern Louisiana and when I opened it to get some tools out the upholstery, all plastic such as dash and all wood trim was covered with mold. You MUST ventilate all interior areas in humid locations. There was one type of mold on upholstery, another on the dash and door plastic and a third type on the clear-coated wood trim. Draw your own conclusions.
How did you get rid of the mold? I have a car with the same problem only mine has mold in the vents and everywhere inside.
@@onebrightflash I used spray anti-mold stuff and I opened the doors all around on warm dry days but lizards and bugs got in so now I'm trying these dehumidifying packets I got from Home Depot that hang in a space and collect water from the atmosphere. They do collect lots of water but I'm waiting to see if the interior of my van gets dry enough to prevent mold.
@@onebrightflash if I were in that situation, I'd run a dehumidifier in the van for 12-24 hours to see what I collected. Leave it alone for 12 hours, test the humidity interior and exterior, then leave the van outside in a rain and leave it closed for twelve hours and test the humidity inside and outside again. The delta on the ambient tests should give you at least a firm idea if you are getting leaking somewhere.
As far as the mold, I would absolutely run an ozone generator in the sealed van with a small fan pushing air through the cabin intake to kill off the mold
If you had mold you had air leaks. Mold only grows on stuff it can eat. Take away its food take away its moisture it cant grow. Mold dosnt grow on closed cell spray foam.
@@bobbg9041 I've been living here for 8 1/2 years...that black mold grows on the Naugahyde-type plastic of the dash in my van and my motorhome plus the ceiling of my motorhome. It grows on the wood surfaces of my van and motorhome. It grows like crazy on the soft, fuzzy cloth covering the seats and lining the doors in my van. It grew on the metal of an AC to DC converter I left on the passenger seat of my van. It grows in circular spots that get larger over time. I'm living in a sub-tropical zone and I finally realized that term means "almost tropical." Tons of moisture all the time. I made the mistake of closing up the van originally air-tight but now I air it out on "dry" days when the sun is shining and there's a breeze.
i am wanting to install real hardwood flooring over my wood sub-floor. What i have for a sub-floor is 1/2″ plywood then 15lb felt then 5/8″ plywood. I also have 6″ bat insulation on bottom being held up with chicken wire. i live in South East Texas it gets hot here so a/c runs a lot. Do i need a vapor barrier? i was also thinking of removing the bat insulation and replace it with close cell foam. Please advise what to do.
If you have an older brick home, what can you do to make sure you don't get the problems (if they are not hiding already) without removing the existing brick? Would painting the brick help?
They are still building like this because of cost. R value is higher than what you speak of. The brick wall has weep holes to get rid of moisture and water.
Spray it down with a reputable water proofing every couple of years and water will beat right off.
I noticed a lot of comments saying how dumb these ideas are. Yet none of them seem to acknowledge that this info doesn't come from Matt alone. It also comes from Dr Joe Lstiburek and Building Science Corp. He's a doctor, so... you know, science. But I get it, 20 years of doing it the way you were taught because, "reasons", is better.
You mean this guy, th-cam.com/video/Ld8pzIu45F8/w-d-xo.html, who's saying you should always vent the roof even if you have exterior insulation on it.
What if you coated the brick with Thompsons water seal or coated it with clear epoxy?
Thompson's water seal is paraffin wax dissolved in mineral spirits, it's low-performance garbage. go to Sherwin Willams, or other real paint store and inquire about real waterproofers. skip the box store paint depts.
@@Mike1614b Thank you, that's good advice.
what books can i read or study to make these changes to my 1980's built split level ?
Why don't you extend the roof to make minimal moisture hit the brick?
I am looking a lot into brick construction. IMO it's the best option for all construction methods. You do have to consider moisture but that is about it.
There is nothing wrong with brick, if it's done right. This is really true of all the issues he brought up. My problem with his arguments is that he wants to avoid some construction techniques because he thinks the potential to do it wrong is much higher. I would argue that those that are going to do it wrong will do wrong no matter what, especially if doing it wrong means doing it cheaper.
I'm very concerned that Matt (in Austin Texas!) doesn't know the difference between a burrito and a taco. Now I'm very worried about his flashing/waterproofing advice I've followed in the past.
Mikey P Me too. If a man is going to steal another man's lunch, he better know what he's stealing!!
I live outside Waco, tx. in the mid 80's I shopped for a new house in the newer part of the area north of Austin and they didn't even use insulated windows in them or insulate the walls. these were higher priced houses. I could not imagine who was buying those houses, I guess the dell folks were buying them up. The houses looked really nice and spacious with high ceilings and little bity yards.
Mikey P give me a taco and a burrito and after I eat them I can tell you the difference thanks for making me hungry
I'm worried about him putting foil in his microwave.
+Mikey P...............SAME here!... maybe he was just wanted to say "blow on the burrito"!
I live in a 1964 brick house just north of Atlanta, GA. It has a basement that contains all of the ductwork, the water heater, and the furnace. Our attic was ventilated until just recently by a thermostat controlled attic fan, which we replaced by a ridge vent when we had our roof redone. The wood in our attic looks nearly new, except for some darkening, and there is no mold or mildew. We recently ripped out and replaced the sheetrock in 3 bedrooms and the living room, only to find that there was no rot, mold, or any other problems with the framing. I guess the builders in the '60s just build better than they did 10 years later.
So should I do spray on insulation on my roof? Or do mini splits on my 2nd floor?
Worked on a perfect house air was pumped down from the attic in summer to crawl under two feet of round pea gravel sealed crawl space with dehumidifier and air conditioning vents in crawl filtered reused through air handling unit with dust zapper double heppa filters in winter air from sealed attic went through same filters heated up and sent up through floors the air conditioning was blown down from above. More expensive to build but double thickness walls and insulation with dehumidifiers makes air conditioning colder...
I love this builder! If you need an assistant or some labor, let me know! The reason they used to vent roofs was because they didn’t have AC but they had attic fans that would draw hot air up and out of the homes. It was for air cooling and circulation. And it really worked...But it’s ridiculous that no one uses attic fans anymore but they still build roofs the same way.
T. B. They still vent attics and a whole house attic fan will actually do a great job of cooling your home relatively speaking. I prefer a high efficiency TRANE XV 20 system my self.
I have a CBC house with stucco. It's 1550 sq ft. While pulling new structured wiring to all of the rooms, garage door to the attic was left open. House was much easier to cool and AC ran less often. I understand about humidity. Is there any other way to cool my attic?
In AZ I added more ventilation to my attic and my power bill A/c bill went way down., so it worked for me.. in fact the attic temperature went from over 150 down to the “balmy” 120 of the outside., might not work as well in more humid environments.. of course conditioning the attic might have been better. But also cost a lot more than an attic fan
Not venting the attic properly will result in heat build up that will cook your shingles. That 30 year shingle will only last you 10 years or do before you have to replace or layover it.
Matt
Please do a video covering these roofing topics...1. Radiant shield under metal or slate shingles, 2. Fiberglass flat roofs (i have a pitch 1/12). 3. Using solid sheet form metal roofs vs. Metal shingles. These would be in Tucson, Az
Thanks. And keep them coming!
Lots of very good information.. thank you.. I have a question, though I was hoping you could help.
I bought a new build home in Phoenix Az, they installed plywood with the radiant foil already installed on the underside (Attic side). I've have been debating if I want to add the air bubble foil or foam boards on the rafters before they install the drywall. This is a larger home and I'm trying to maximize the efficiency of the house before summer comes around again.. not looking forward to my electrical bills..
What would you recommend in this case?
thank you I'm advance.
what is you paint the brick? also, I have always heard that ventilation was key because it kept air flowing through so that moisture doesn't collect.
I guess not if its HumiD air. Has water in it so is worse. But idk im so confused and I'm building a house soon
I deliver shingles here in Mississippi, and I’ll tell you Every New house and I mean Every new house is Vented
Daniel Schneider that’s his point, it’s old tech and can be improved
Well maybe in the south. But you must vent your attic here in the north !!! Maybe the south may need to re-evaluate, a conditioned attic is what I would do.. But you still need to vent the roof
Now it's becoming no vetalation from plumming
@@BillReid82 no the video clearly said not to vent
@@jimyounger9490 do you know how much energy/money it would cost to condition an attic in the South?
I always believed that putting 1/2 or 3/4 reflective foam board on the underside of the roof rafters to create a barrier along with piling the attic insulation to the rafters at the edges and make it that level all the way across . Also I always thought to partly cover the ducts with said insulation is not a bad idea . All this mind you would have very little soffit vents and a ridge vent .
a board at the end of the joists stops the insulation from going out over the soffit vents and blocking them. I don't think the sheeting should go all the way down to the insulation though. I think it would pull more heat out from the interior of the attic with the bottom open a little although the heat rising in the interior might be enough
Where are you going to put duct work if not in the attic? I own a 2 story house with a basement in the south. I have 2 separate hvac systems for the main floor and the upstairs. Duct work for the upstairs floor is in the vented attic and ducts for main floor are in the basement. Where would you hide ductwork if not in these places?
Ok so on attics with spray foam insulated roofs (also air conditioned) I have seen some problems with the bathroom vent fans they vent to the hot outside air and when the cold and hot air meat made a ton of condensation that leaked in the bathroom what is a good solution for this?
Man you are full of it. I live in louisiana. I spent much time up in attics installing wiring in residential homes and buisnesses. Sealed attics were the worst you could litteraly die up there during the summer and had to use tricks to get the job done quickly. New contruction with vented soffits all around the perimiter of the roof and a really well ventallated attic were a godsend to me.
Bleepnsheep learn what is being explained.
A crappy built attic with no ventilation is horrid.
A RADIANT AND INSULATED ROOF will be room temp in the Attis and near zero heat buildup.
@@SuperVstech Common sense tells us. The purpose of the roof is to keep water out of the house. If you want temp insulation put it on top of the ceiling. Do you leave your kids in the car with windows rolled up on a hot day? That's what its like in a sealed attic when its hot. Bottom line, this guy is bogus. Many other comments point out his fallacy better than mine.
Bleepnsheep common sense isn’t always right.
Insulating the attic floor keeps the 160ish F heat out.
Insulating the roof keeps the 100 ish F heat out...
which is easier?
@@SuperVstech Much easier to insulate the ceiling especially with a blown in insulation. It will never reach 160f in an attic with proper ventilation.
Bleepnsheep it’s easier to rob a store than get a job and work for it, but that doesn’t make it he best option...
Taking advice from a guy who doesn’t know the difference between a burrito and a taco is probably not a great idea.
You just won the internet.
Looked at my wife and said "That's a friggin Taco, not a burrito" then turned his video off.
Credit: Least there's no "Poke" Ribs nor "Ketch yo' pants on farr" BBQ sauce on it!
I was thinking this guy shouldn’t be giving advice on building in the south if he can’t make that distinction.
Also microwaves bombard water molecules with electrons. Not convection
I have family in Midland, Tx. No excuses!
Matt , I have a two story house about 2300 sq ft near Dallas , I noticed my carpet upstairs felt really moist , so I acquired a moister meter , and carpet upstairs measured around 40-50 % moisture? Is this a condensation issue or AC issue ? Is this normal ?
BTW , I discovered your channel via OFF THE RANCH channel ! God Bless !
I'm an electrician in florida, I crawl attics in the summer, exhaust fans in attics actually work trust me
I believe he means an attic fan is not as effective as insulating the roof itself. Fans always work better than no fans.
They work by sucking cold air out of the conditioned space into the attic
Majority of dust in a home is dry skin flaking off the occupants and their domestic animals.
Good guess..... 🤗
Hmmm, my tropical fish don't shed though and I use a HEPA vacuum to clean regularly. So pretty sure that's not it.
Done any studies lately to prove your claim though?
I live in south Florida where a crawl space is like Big Foot, seldomly seen.
South Florida is flat...no need...however...lots of them in Coral Gables, older places where placing a concrete slab was FAR more expensive, if even possible to get materials delivered, than crawlspace and floor joist systems...when ready-mixed concrete became prevalent and cost effective, crawlspaces fell out of use.
No crawl space equals a plumbing nightmare
@@Mike-ug8yc exactly. Most of these contractors say slabs are good cause its cheap and reduces build time. Thats the main reason why houses are built in 6-8 months instead 8-12 months. New construction houses dont have a decent foundation. So if the ground beneath your house shifts so does your house. I've seen hundreds of homes with cracks and separation in the sheetrock on the inside before the house is even a year old. They don't use brick anymore for 2 reasons. Cause brick isn't cheap and brick homes will show foundation shifts really fast.
Question: for brick façade, would it make sense to put a impervious hardibacker on first, before installing the bricks, to keep moisture from penetrating to the air-space between the façade and housewrap?
Love the way you teach love the way you include so many details That make all the difference, I have learned so much and I just want to tell you thank you
Hi Matt
We use brick all the time in the UK and we never have this problem with modern builds. During firing of the bricks we add a moisture repellent product, so whenever it rains the water never seeps through the bricks also a slightly different type of moisture repellent can be added when mixing the mortar (cement). Plus to help the bricks bond better to the mortar we found that soaking the bricks for 30 minutes or so helped adhere the two products far far better otherwise the mortar (cement) could dry quicker causing hairline fractures between the two. Now in the UK we have bean building with bricks for centuarys even as early as the 1600's for houses. Now yes we have had bad building habits in the past especially just after the ww2 but to be honest even the houses built back then seem to have bean built to last unlike the more modern homes we now have. Which last the life of a mortgage (25 years).if we are lucky.
Yes - older homes with sturdy construction in terms of denser, heavier wood and brick/block type construction and heavy boards 2x12 boards on the roof and now 3/4 plywood on it. Old style slate. I just sold a house built in 1952 and I’m now thinking I was crazy to sell that house. Had at least 10” thick walls outside 2-3 layers of real brick with under the house concrete block. The inside walls mostly still plaster but the wall assemblies were like 8” - once you closed the real wood doors - didn’t hear much noise from room to room. And each room had a large closet installed in the bedroom, backing up to a closet in the hall which backed up to the bathroom. The bathroom backed up to a large built in bookcase that backed to the living room. The master had a 3’x 8’ wide closet and then a walk through pocket door laundry closet for towels etc that attached to its bathroom. Should have sold mine and moved there.
These old houses had 1 layer glass no thermal. Insulation in walls almost non existent much less attics. Yet these homes are still standing 100, 200, 300 years later with its windows. They start blocking them up so the wood can’t breathe and you get all kinds of problems. You know I don’t remember the cost to heat was all that great. Yes there were fireplaces. And wood stoves etc. one we lived in had a wood cook stove in the kitchen, a wood stove in the living room, and fireplaces in the upstairs bedrooms. I know it was solid wood lap siding type boards and there was a thin plaster layer but there was newspaper in the wall itself. Old metal roof. If it leaked, my grandfather patched it and tarred it - later painted it.
I know a couple houses we lived in used coal to heat it and one or two was oil drums so oil heated to the furnaces. Some used natural gas in the city mostly. Here we are in 2022 and we still don’t have natural gas. Have to use propane for fireplace, and appliances if you want that over electricity.
To me we are going backwards and costing more and more to build and they are more toxic day after day. And they just don’t seem to be able to last. Many of the new homes are having to be rebuilt at years 15-20. The floors, not being true wood, the laminate coatings have come off, can’t be refinished, and have to be replaced starting at year 15-20. Windows failing at about 10-15 years. Roofs not making it to the stated 40-50 years. I saw a metal roof the other day only limited warranted to 30 years. Explain that to me when I have see barns with metal roofing and old houses that the metal roofing is already well past 100+ years. Every 40-50 years might want to prime and paint them with a good linseed oil based paint not the junk sold these days. Todays metal roofs are suppose to have these miracle coatings, why would a warranty expire at 30 yrs and be limited.
Furnaces use to be 50-75 years. Not now. Heat pumps, my first went 25 years and had one repair. Now the folks are telling me 10 maybe 15 years tops in new one.
Appliances - anyone over 65 knows that they use to last 25-30 years easily. Not today maybe 5-10 maybe. My old washer an dryer was used from my grandparents (got in late 70s, early 80s) and came to my house after moving half way across the country and coming back. Prior was in a basement. And then sat at my house for 10 yrs with 2 repairs. The dryer I still have - I do have to tape the door close. It needs a new handle, magnets won’t hold. We are talking a 42 year dryer.
I bought a new oven in 2000 and by 2008 - was shot due to the computer board which couldn’t be replaced, thank you GE. The washing machine bought 2013/2014 had to have 3 repairs due to balancer springs on tub. That model from HD - came with three. According to repair man, the same model purchased elsewhere has 4 balance springs (I think that’s what they call them) - keeps the front loader tub in balance when spinning). I have decided it will have to carry on until it quits and I will buy something else and make sure what’s in it. Too expensive to get back out here- 5-6 repairs now.
Had new windows put in - oh my gosh I wish I had pulled the old windows, repaired and had inside storm window thermal panel done that they use in historical buildings.
Buying replacement windows means you will be putting in new ones every 10-15 years.
Are you seeing a pattern - based on several friend’s brand new houses - at about 10 years all appliances are shot, and then at 10-15 the major parts of the house have to be replaced. And they just aren’t built well, nor installed well.
Painting needs to be redone at about 5 years - sheet rock not properly primed and using builders grade paint with almost no pigment just gets absorbed into the sheetrock. When the fillers fail, just disappear into the air - no color left.
One friend has a house he could stick his finger through the sheetrock (hole) wall to the siding no insulation, no real protection to the outside. Was always cold. How did the inspectors miss these things. It’s like developers use the very cheapest things they can find. Not their issue - once they are gone and have moved on - it’s your problem. You accepted in on walk through.
Now as you said we know old houses centuries old are still standing - what is the problem that new houses can’t make it to the 20 year mortgage mark without major redos. People are having to repair what’s there instead of adding on or adding those luxuries they planned in when the house was paid off. It’s crazy. These type of houses aren’t even really pretty - like big boxes unless you are custom building at $1 million and up.
I just don’t understand it.
@@plips71755 It's easy to understand. In the past you had to put a lot of money down before a mortgage loan. They also calculated for no more than 20 percent of single earner wages for monthly payment. Then the loans typically were from a trust or savings and loan. This would be existing money not newly created money from a bank. In this way the housing didn't bubble in price. At the same time the mortgage didn't go hyperbolic paying interest to the banker. The economy was also more industrial capitalist, so the other side of debt instruments was equity and production, not finance engineering and speculation. They were more productive because there were fewer rake offs to a parasite class. Today things have to be made like crap to squeeze maximum profit to pay the overhead that finance is raking off. Or, think of it like a highway man taking tolls for you to pass.
Unventilated attics in Florida can hit 165 degrees in some cases. I used to work in the Air Conditioning trade and sometimes had service calls because the attic temperature tripped the fire-stat which turns off the A/C during a fire. Also, the humidity in an attic is supper low because the temperature is high. Building code in Florida requires ridge vents or other similar devices. There is no option not to ventilate the attic, and there is a big noticeable difference when you do not.
So what do you recommend instead of stucco, stone or brick? I have seen tile in Iceland of all places but that may be too weird for Texas
Go with cement board (Hardie board , Hardie plank, whatever you refer to it as). It's probably the best overall solution to exteriors. If you want fancy facade, just make sure it's done right and you shouldnt have problems
If I move insulation to roof Joyce’s do I still need soffit vents? In the Georgia? My ac unit is in my attic.
I am a Mitsubishi installing fool. When I say fool I mean I use load calculations proper duct sizing short runs engineered registers buried duct work you know, I’m the guy the other air-conditioning companies call the fool.
I love your channel dude. The name of my company is Electrify My Home out in California fortunately not dealing with all of the humidity issues. Keep up the great work I hope you don’t mind if I use your videos to emphasize to my customers what we’re trying to do. You’re doing a service for all of us building performance guys
I like the nail polish @1:05 .. Is that a Rockwool or Delta Pink?
Unvented attics cause mold because of dew point during months with large temperature swings such as happens in November and early March. If you don’t vent the attic at a minimum add conditioned air so as not to have condensation. Also code requires venting.
I have a 1950's house in Florida with mostly concrete block construction, with the exception of about 240 sq ft addition which is stick framed. The roof is being replaced soon with standing seam steel. It's 2.5/12 pitch, and there is almost no insulation anywhere in the attic, and very little room to work up there to add insulation, could probably be blown in. There are a/c ducts up there. When I replace the roof, I have the option of adding polyiso on the roof, but I believe the attic is vented. Will the polyiso not do any good with a vented attic? Should I add the polyiso and seal off the vents? Or should I just add the metal on the roof, leave the venting alone, and try to get someone to blow in insulation?
I like the green screen you hold up to the camera. That little bit of editing amuses me.
2018 camaro with a 1970 427 big block???? Sign me up!!!
no kidding. I would buy a 2020 model car body and interior if I had the old(reliable) normal engine and transmission. Today cars are designed to make the normal person unable to fix them. Give me the easy and simple that last!!!
The engines of today consistently go well past 100k . You were lucky to get 50k out of anything prior to the 90's models .
sign you up for a gas card because you'll be stopping at every station
Yes, 70's era vehicles are much, much easier and cheaper to repair and maintain than the current ones.
totally wrong I have a 1972 mustang with 400,000 original documented miles I am the 3 owner it had all the original tags and stickers on engine and had all service information in it. even found the dealer biasness card of the ford dealer that sold it!!! the the engine runs like it has efi gets 25 mpg hi way!!! has 351c 2bbl. it has lasted because it was serviced by the book and the fact ford used hi nickel iron and forged components. it still pulls good intake vacuum and duos not smoke!! the other factor is it is from a country area and the reason you find that cars run forever in the century is that they use fleet rated oil and coolant and filters as thay have a lot of farm equipment and the auto part stores are Napa/fleet suppliers not auto zone! the fleet suppers are not open long on the weekends and there is no auto stores in the country so people by oil and coolant in 5 gl pails as fleet oil and coolant is ALOT better than auto/gas only rated fluids and cheaper!!! this is why we se 200,000 mi on old eqiment as nothing!! 400,000 is wen we start to look at something as hi mileage!! there are 600,000 plus pieces of equipment!! and the bs that EFI is better is bull as my carbureted equipment starts better cold than the efi equipment we have and get the same or better mileage and has the aero dynamics of a shoe box and a 3speed auto. the key to long engine life is a good performance ignition system, proper air fuel mix and proper spark curve. get it right and will run like EFI. that is the secret!!! my self and people like legendary smoky Yunick ,renegade country experimenters figured out a strong ignition a lean as possible fuel mixture, cold intake air, free flowing exhaust, a fast ignition curve with a conservative total, conservative starting point make for better mileage and engine life. smoky had it all figured out.
What if your in a condo which has an attic and although there is a fire wall divide between the attics there are 4 units which have the same configuration under the same roof same building
If I seal and insulate my attic, do I add condition supply and return air to my attic?
Biggest thing I saw with brick - Radiant heat.
It bakes in the hot sun all day, then at night when the home should be cooler, The masonry transfers it's stored heat to the home.
I didnt make it past him saying attic ventalation is dumb.... Sorry buddy im a licensed pro, been at it for over 20 yrs. Proper ventilation = convection. And convection = cooler air, dry air, fresh air. And who cares if construction has been simular for the last 50 yrs. If it works why mess with it.
There are modern and more expensive and options like open cell foam , ive used it many times and at three times the cost, it works well. But even it has draw backs.
BTW calling southern building dumb, makes you look arogant, not intelligent.
lflsremodeling indeed. These tactics seem like polybutylene pipe and LP siding...latest doesn’t always mean greatest.
more like uneducated in the true known building trade practices. young overearners are like that till it catches up to them and they switch rackets.
lflsremodeling @
Perfect example of not being able to teach an old dog new tricks. These 20+ year professionals don't like to learn new things. Let's stay in the 70s! YAY!
He is basically trying to argue that cracking your windows in a parked car, will not decrease the cabin temperature when you get back in it. Completely false.
A question about cinder block; Is it a good idea to fill it with closed cell foam on the sunny south side to keep heat out, or does it do something I don´t know about? I´m talking about tropical climate, Yucatan peninsula. Trying to take everthing into account for my future build :) I won´t use AC
Love the videos Matt!💪🏼 I live in upstate, western New York and have a target to move south and build our dream home in 4-5 years. Your education is second to none. Look forward to following more
Summer is torture in the south.
Great job Matt. Fascinated by this as an HTX owner
I am not sure where in the South that you are talking about but our under crawl space ground temp is not 50-55*F...it is much closer to 65-70*F except in the dead of winter (Jan-Mar).
Vented crawl spaces have been used for centuries in the South. Personally I have never seen anything sweating in a crawl space.
Having the HVAC ducting in the crawl space is better than in the attic space. Most Southern home do not have the HVAC in the attic though. It is usually in a wall (closet).
If your brick construction does not have a moisture barrier between the brick & the wall you are not up to code.
well done Gregory, eventually someone making sense out of all the bullshit of this video.
I'm a disabled person and have a vented crawl space I don't understand what he's saying because everything my complete home had to be EPA approved "energy star" up to code yada yada yada. and he never give an explanation what to do about a crawl space that's just crazy .... and just for the record everything that's another my home has insulation and under it and a vapor barrier on the ground......
They've been used in the South because the Northern builders came down and just kept doing the same thing. It became code, and even though we've learned better ways, it's still allowed and done. Building science is against you on vented attics and crawl spaces. Look up the work Joseph Lstiburek has been doing for several decades now. He's built numerous test homes in Florida and other places to do side-by-side comparisons of building techniques. He's been against them since at least 1997. Note he says he loves brick, and it's the best choice, but ONLY if it's done right:
buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-015-top-ten-dumb-things-to-do-in-the-south
"Venting attics in the South was dreamed up by some disgruntled Yankee pissed about the Civil War and wanting to get even."
Is this an actual argument?
As far as vented crawlspaces...I mentioned above that I have NEVER seen anything sweating in a vented crawlspace.
In fact...my grandparents 200+ year old home has a vented crawlspace where the dirt is so dry it is like very fine dust...no moisture there!
PS> This is the more correct way to have a vented attic in the South...though not as good for Mobile, AL area:
buildingscience.com/documents/profiles/etw-montgomery-profile
In my particular case Figure 15c is the one used...and as stated WITH a vented attic.
That attic being in good shape 50 years later is a great indicator that it's a good construction method. Is it the best? Maybe not, but it works. Can conditioned attics be better? If you have a high dollar metal roof and take all the precautions yeah, but it's more expensive and harder to do.
At 8:20 When You Talk about Conditioned roof, With Insulation up to the roof line. Are You Supposed to leave out the Insulation in the Ceiling? Just insulate the outer perimeter? What about details on keeping the roof deck dry? Also What do you Think of installing the HVAC unit inside of the house instead of the roof? Like they do in some modular homes. Is there any Benefit in doing that?