By 1964, the G80CS actually had it's shortest stroke since it first started production prior to WWII. It was a hemispherical combustion chamber in the head, with hairpin valve springs from 1948, allowing a highly lift and longer duration for the valve opening. AJS/Matchless were building engines for all their cycles, based on components designed through their racing programs. For many years their competition bikes were sweeping all before them, road racing (7R, G50, G45), trials (G3CS, G80CS) dirt track and desert racing (G80CS, G85CS, G11/G12CS, G15C/P11). It was only the introduction of lighter 2 stroke bikes that saw them become non-competitive. I'm fortunate enough to have an example of them all in various stages of disrepair (except for the road racing models). I've been collecting the missing parts for 20 yrs as retirement projects. They have flown under the radar for many years as people sought BSA's and Triumph's etc, which made them more affordable. Now, they're being re-discovered, and the values are sky rocketing. So I'm glad I started collecting them long ago. I certainly won't be selling them until they put me in a box, that's for sure. Edit: This was the standard 'duplex' frame, as used on the road going models, but with a different type of head stock and bolt up rear frame section. I have frames with the side-car lug under the head stock, some with it removed. There was two types of air-filter fitted, one tubular, or this type, shaped like the original tool box, only the cover is a custom item. The original cover also doubled as a plate to stick the bikes racing numbers. The exhaust is standard, it could be ordered like this, or with a muffler from the factory. The light and ignition switch were moved to the side, so that the quickly detachable (QD) competition headlight could be easily removed prior to racing. The P11 has the same set up. The ribs were removed from the hubs, not so much for weight saving, but because they were notorious for collecting mud in a race, with the blob just getting bigger and bigger, which then added weight before the race was completed. The front hub is bigger than earlier hubs and was known as the 'interim hub'. The rear slightly different internally also. They were used for 2 years before Norton Atlas style hubs, with bigger brakes again, were introduced, from 63-64. The Norton hubs were very heavy, so the competition bikes continued with the interim hubs. There are pictures of them with and without the ribs at Earls Court, straight from the factory. The brake adjuster should be the other way around, it will eventually foul the primary case and mark it. It was originally a single seat fitted, because there was no provision for pillion pegs, but larger riders fitted the dual seat to be able to stretch out a bit. The P11 frame was a redesign of this fame, incorporating the front half and completely re-designing the rear, and allowing the fitment of the 750cc Norton Twin engine. The P11 originally had the high pipes, the single seat and smooth interim hubs. However it became so popular the P11A 'Ranger' was introduced with low pipes, a long seat, pillion pegs and ribbed hubs, to provide a road going version for those who wanted one, but not for racing. There are many publicity shots of Clint Eastwood on the Norton badged N11, in Germany and England when he was filming 'Where Eagles Dare'. Hope this helps you out. Cheers from Australia 👍🇦🇺.
@@forgottenmotorcycles Half a lifetime of collecting, has meant a lot of research to ascertain what was correct and what was not. When you 50-70 yr old motorcycles, you inherit 50-70 yrs of mismatches and bodgey repairs as well. So I learnt to virtually go back to the frame and rebuild, to remove all the gremlins and spend more time riding than in the front seat of a pick-up truck. 😅
Hi Coolhand. I'm just about to buy my first Matchy, but it's a hybrid. It's a 1958 G3L fitted with 1954 AJS 18C all alloy engine. 2 owners ago raced it in motocross. I'm so bloody excited! It has an alloy tank by Lyta, but I like the look of the slender competition tanks. Do you know if they would fit the G3L frame? The seat is a mismatch so I'll source or make one to fit against rather than on the tank! Front wheel (Dunlop 21" alloy flanged) has standard 8" side brake. Like to get wheel rebuilt with full width hub brake. What machines could I source the correct one from? Cheers, David
@@Igotknobblies Hi David, the 1958 frame will either have four mount points (two at front and two at rear) for a standard tank, but a single cross frame 'boss' to take a large cross bolt on a competition frame. You will have to look at the frame to determine what tank you can use. The early competition tanks will fit if spacers are made up to go under the front two mounts. The wheels always had 7" brakes, only the late models with Norton hubs were 8". You should have the 7" alloy hubs front and rear in 1958, at the time the fins were machined of to prevent a build up of mud, but Ive seen plenty that did not have this done. The trials bikes had the 21" front rim with the early 5.5" single sided front hub to save on weight. It's best to research what was correct for a 1958 model and take it from there. A 1958 competition engine may come your way one day. But it's your bike and a choice for yourself. If it's been raced check for cracks in the down tube around the head stock. All repairs must be 'braised' not welded. They were originally braised and if you electric weld over the top of a braised weld, the brass oxidises and becomes brittle, creating a greater weakness. Focus on the electrics, the oiling of the engine, the clutch and primary chains to get the bike reliable before worrying about aesthetics. You will enjoy it more if you can ride it without it constantly breaking down. Too many people lose interest too quickly when this happens. One of my first Matcho's was a 1954 G3L. To this day it remains one of my most reliable and fun bikes. Not the shiniest, not the fastest, just a complete, honest, original bike. Always starts, always comes home. Ride them as they were meant to be ridden and you will have a great time. All the best as you set out on this new adventure. 👍🇦🇺🦘
I agree with your every word.. the G80CS is a great looking bike.. and it rides every bit as well as it looks. This was mine - and not a day goes by without me regretting the day I sold it.. th-cam.com/video/aVwO4bQ4s2g/w-d-xo.htmlsi=pLJ_93WO4oG-6_1w
When I went to scrambles in the early '60s, they were dominated by 500 singles like this. It didn't dawn on me that my DRZ 400S was in many ways similar: big single with about 28bhp. A bit lighter and better suspension and brakes I suppose.
don't get excited about any matchless. they made decent bikes but somebody else made 'a little better' in just about every category. otoh, if good enough' is good enough, they are likely to be cheaper than 'the best of breed.' can't think why anyone would want a matchbox to actually use, the nips got into the cross-country game back in the 80's, and right away they were offering better machines. they are cheap and old now, and still run good.
Baxter Cycles is my idea of heaven!! 🇬🇧 I grew up with British bikes, just love 'em. Having said that I now ride a Harley!!
I've got two Harleys :-) also a Triumph and a Royal Enfield too Wahoo!
As you say, beautiful. My favourite scrambler especially in the hands of Dave Curtis.
These are amazing machines. Wahoo!
By 1964, the G80CS actually had it's shortest stroke since it first started production prior to WWII. It was a hemispherical combustion chamber in the head, with hairpin valve springs from 1948, allowing a highly lift and longer duration for the valve opening. AJS/Matchless were building engines for all their cycles, based on components designed through their racing programs. For many years their competition bikes were sweeping all before them, road racing (7R, G50, G45), trials (G3CS, G80CS) dirt track and desert racing (G80CS, G85CS, G11/G12CS, G15C/P11). It was only the introduction of lighter 2 stroke bikes that saw them become non-competitive. I'm fortunate enough to have an example of them all in various stages of disrepair (except for the road racing models). I've been collecting the missing parts for 20 yrs as retirement projects. They have flown under the radar for many years as people sought BSA's and Triumph's etc, which made them more affordable. Now, they're being re-discovered, and the values are sky rocketing. So I'm glad I started collecting them long ago. I certainly won't be selling them until they put me in a box, that's for sure.
Edit: This was the standard 'duplex' frame, as used on the road going models, but with a different type of head stock and bolt up rear frame section. I have frames with the side-car lug under the head stock, some with it removed.
There was two types of air-filter fitted, one tubular, or this type, shaped like the original tool box, only the cover is a custom item. The original cover also doubled as a plate to stick the bikes racing numbers.
The exhaust is standard, it could be ordered like this, or with a muffler from the factory.
The light and ignition switch were moved to the side, so that the quickly detachable (QD) competition headlight could be easily removed prior to racing. The P11 has the same set up.
The ribs were removed from the hubs, not so much for weight saving, but because they were notorious for collecting mud in a race, with the blob just getting bigger and bigger, which then added weight before the race was completed.
The front hub is bigger than earlier hubs and was known as the 'interim hub'. The rear slightly different internally also. They were used for 2 years before Norton Atlas style hubs, with bigger brakes again, were introduced, from 63-64. The Norton hubs were very heavy, so the competition bikes continued with the interim hubs.
There are pictures of them with and without the ribs at Earls Court, straight from the factory.
The brake adjuster should be the other way around, it will eventually foul the primary case and mark it.
It was originally a single seat fitted, because there was no provision for pillion pegs, but larger riders fitted the dual seat to be able to stretch out a bit.
The P11 frame was a redesign of this fame, incorporating the front half and completely re-designing the rear, and allowing the fitment of the 750cc Norton Twin engine.
The P11 originally had the high pipes, the single seat and smooth interim hubs. However it became so popular the P11A 'Ranger' was introduced with low pipes, a long seat, pillion pegs and ribbed hubs, to provide a road going version for those who wanted one, but not for racing. There are many publicity shots of Clint Eastwood on the Norton badged N11, in Germany and England when he was filming 'Where Eagles Dare'. Hope this helps you out. Cheers from Australia 👍🇦🇺.
Hot dang, thanks for this info!
@@forgottenmotorcycles Half a lifetime of collecting, has meant a lot of research to ascertain what was correct and what was not. When you 50-70 yr old motorcycles, you inherit 50-70 yrs of mismatches and bodgey repairs as well. So I learnt to virtually go back to the frame and rebuild, to remove all the gremlins and spend more time riding than in the front seat of a pick-up truck. 😅
Hi Coolhand. I'm just about to buy my first Matchy, but it's a hybrid. It's a 1958 G3L fitted with 1954 AJS 18C all alloy engine. 2 owners ago raced it in motocross. I'm so bloody excited! It has an alloy tank by Lyta, but I like the look of the slender competition tanks. Do you know if they would fit the G3L frame? The seat is a mismatch so I'll source or make one to fit against rather than on the tank! Front wheel (Dunlop 21" alloy flanged) has standard 8" side brake. Like to get wheel rebuilt with full width hub brake. What machines could I source the correct one from?
Cheers, David
@@Igotknobblies Hi David, the 1958 frame will either have four mount points (two at front and two at rear) for a standard tank, but a single cross frame 'boss' to take a large cross bolt on a competition frame. You will have to look at the frame to determine what tank you can use. The early competition tanks will fit if spacers are made up to go under the front two mounts. The wheels always had 7" brakes, only the late models with Norton hubs were 8". You should have the 7" alloy hubs front and rear in 1958, at the time the fins were machined of to prevent a build up of mud, but Ive seen plenty that did not have this done. The trials bikes had the 21" front rim with the early 5.5" single sided front hub to save on weight. It's best to research what was correct for a 1958 model and take it from there. A 1958 competition engine may come your way one day. But it's your bike and a choice for yourself.
If it's been raced check for cracks in the down tube around the head stock. All repairs must be 'braised' not welded. They were originally braised and if you electric weld over the top of a braised weld, the brass oxidises and becomes brittle, creating a greater weakness. Focus on the electrics, the oiling of the engine, the clutch and primary chains to get the bike reliable before worrying about aesthetics. You will enjoy it more if you can ride it without it constantly breaking down. Too many people lose interest too quickly when this happens. One of my first Matcho's was a 1954 G3L. To this day it remains one of my most reliable and fun bikes. Not the shiniest, not the fastest, just a complete, honest, original bike. Always starts, always comes home. Ride them as they were meant to be ridden and you will have a great time. All the best as you set out on this new adventure. 👍🇦🇺🦘
You're so lucky in the USA. I'm British and it took me 4 years to find all the parts needed to build a 1964 G80CS. Believe me it was worth it!.
They are great bikes :-)
I didn't see your camping bed in the corner Fuzzy 😆🤣.Another couple hours no doubt spent in their & why not.Absolutly marvelous place.
That red bike you pointed out Fuzzy not Indian Big Chief Royal Enfield bike?
Wahoo.
WAHOO
I agree with your every word.. the G80CS is a great looking bike.. and it rides every bit as well as it looks. This was mine - and not a day goes by without me regretting the day I sold it..
th-cam.com/video/aVwO4bQ4s2g/w-d-xo.htmlsi=pLJ_93WO4oG-6_1w
Gorgeous,you get the coolest Brit bikes.
They've really got some nice ones....and new ones all the time too!
When I went to scrambles in the early '60s, they were dominated by 500 singles like this. It didn't dawn on me that my DRZ 400S was in many ways similar: big single with about 28bhp. A bit lighter and better suspension and brakes I suppose.
Very good point. Have always wanted to ride a DRZ 400.
don't get excited about any matchless. they made decent bikes but somebody else made 'a little better' in just about every category.
otoh, if good enough' is good enough, they are likely to be cheaper than 'the best of breed.'
can't think why anyone would want a matchbox to actually use, the nips got into the cross-country game back in the 80's, and right away they were offering better machines. they are cheap and old now, and still run good.
Wahoo!