Hi Everlanders, lovely work. Hope all is well. May I know what material you used between the sub-frame and chassis, the yellow strips? And possibly why you preferably used it? I like and agree with the distributed load of the sub-frame across the chassis. We plan on using the same principle.
+Basil Paul Thanks! The yellow cap is UHMW chain guide. It's used on large industry to guide large chain with low friction. I chose to use it because I needed to isolate the aluminum frame from the steel chassis, UHMW is very hard and wear resistant, almost slippery, like Teflon...
Thank you once again for your reply. Really appreciate it. Look forward to seeing more of your videos. I really appreciate your technical perspective. Hope you have plenty of wonderful camping trips.
Nice idea! Was wondering about the connection of the aluminium subframe and the steel chassis as well. Did you just bolt it together? Or how does it work?
It's a three point mount. The Box is bolted through Polyurethane Bushings at two points on either side of the frame near the front, the back is on a single pivot that has an adjustable air clamping mechanism. You can see this in this video: th-cam.com/video/Dt3T_DRVno4/w-d-xo.htmlm2s
Just discovered you through the live and give channel overviewing your rig. Absolutely love it. My inner geek was screaming by the end of the video wanting to know more details on parts/products use for your automation. Low and behold, you all have a great library of videos documenting many of those things. I greatly appreciate you sharing your knowledge and look forward to reviewing many of the videos for my own build projects.
I've used a vinyl cutting blade to cut small pieces of aluminum, i think the high negative rake is probably less lightly to dig into a gummy metal like aluminum and kick back
Great video series! I will be doing something similar with an M1088 military truck. I have some questions about your build. 1. Steel vs Aluminum. Are you satisfied with the strength of the aluminum? 2. Do you feel that your articulating from allows enough travel. It is a nice simple design. 3. In my search for FRP, I too have heard the complaints about manufacturer's liability. Do you think flame / fire is much if a real world issue with foam core? I like your solar slide build, but may opt for linear motors. Keep the videos coming!
1. Yes, no problems. Aluminum is much lighter and you'll be happy for the weight savings later when other things weight starts adding up. 2. There is enough articulation to allow the frame to twist 6 inches. More than enough for my intended use. Not as fancy as pivoting on a single pivot, but much less height needed and much simpler. 3. Flame, solvent resistance, delamination are all issues to be concerned with if going with foam core. Think of the thinner in the paint, it caused the foam to dissolve in my tests. Also, test rivets to the skin, my tests showed this was the point the delamination started. Try and source honeycomb with foam injection. Something like www.rhinokore.com/ although I could not get them to sell to me.
I have a 3500 cab and chassis and want to build a overland type camper on back of it . Where do you get the plans and materials list for your build ? Walter
Interesting project! Quite european style und unusual on a US truck, imho. I watches several of your videos but I missed some tings. 1 was mentioned in a different area: 3-point connection to the letter frame. Which is an important move! 2 I miss the dimension of the cabin. I can roughly estimate the truck size, but how long, wide and especially high is the cabin? And overall height? The cabin looks relatively narrow behind the front - which is nice. I guess you can stand right up, which is 6 foot something??
Hello come across your videos and their great please keep them up. What cad program did you use please struggling to find something online in the uk. Hop you can help
It's made from 6061 Aluminium which weighs ~2700kg/m³ The shape is called "Square Tubing" and we built ours from 2x2🍌 with 3/16🍌 wall thickness. Therefor the weight of the aluminum we used is 2.43kg per meter
You probably already know that you can buy blades designed to cut aluminum that vut through aluminum like butter. Its worth it to have one on hand, they are so much safer.
No, the material was all super flat when we got it, but because many of the welds were on one side of the tube, it will always curl in that direction. A well known issue when welding aluminum.
@@Everlanders oh sure, if you welded it yeah, that will happen, that's why you need to spot weld first and weld in patterns, but I'm talking before the welding... @ 3:00...
The whole point of the video is welding the subframe... And everything was spot-welded, by an experienced journeyman welder. But without clamping the whole thing to a welding table or other fixture there's no way around it.
Hi Everlanders, lovely work. Hope all is well. May I know what material you used between the sub-frame and chassis, the yellow strips? And possibly why you preferably used it? I like and agree with the distributed load of the sub-frame across the chassis. We plan on using the same principle.
+Basil Paul Thanks! The yellow cap is UHMW chain guide. It's used on large industry to guide large chain with low friction. I chose to use it because I needed to isolate the aluminum frame from the steel chassis, UHMW is very hard and wear resistant, almost slippery, like Teflon...
Thank you once again for your reply. Really appreciate it. Look forward to seeing more of your videos. I really appreciate your technical perspective. Hope you have plenty of wonderful camping trips.
Nice idea! Was wondering about the connection of the aluminium subframe and the steel chassis as well.
Did you just bolt it together? Or how does it work?
It's a three point mount. The Box is bolted through Polyurethane Bushings at two points on either side of the frame near the front, the back is on a single pivot that has an adjustable air clamping mechanism. You can see this in this video: th-cam.com/video/Dt3T_DRVno4/w-d-xo.htmlm2s
The Rear Hold down is shown here: th-cam.com/video/D-plHnNaUks/w-d-xo.htmlm1s
Just discovered you through the live and give channel overviewing your rig. Absolutely love it. My inner geek was screaming by the end of the video wanting to know more details on parts/products use for your automation. Low and behold, you all have a great library of videos documenting many of those things. I greatly appreciate you sharing your knowledge and look forward to reviewing many of the videos for my own build projects.
Welcome and Thanks! 🥰
Also want to say thank you for all the great video work. It has been both inspirational and informative.
I've used a vinyl cutting blade to cut small pieces of aluminum, i think the high negative rake is probably less lightly to dig into a gummy metal like aluminum and kick back
Great video series! I will be doing something similar with an M1088 military truck. I have some questions about your build.
1. Steel vs Aluminum. Are you satisfied with the strength of the aluminum?
2. Do you feel that your articulating from allows enough travel. It is a nice simple design.
3. In my search for FRP, I too have heard the complaints about manufacturer's liability. Do you think flame / fire is much if a real world issue with foam core?
I like your solar slide build, but may opt for linear motors.
Keep the videos coming!
1. Yes, no problems. Aluminum is much lighter and you'll be happy for the weight savings later when other things weight starts adding up.
2. There is enough articulation to allow the frame to twist 6 inches. More than enough for my intended use. Not as fancy as pivoting on a single pivot, but much less height needed and much simpler.
3. Flame, solvent resistance, delamination are all issues to be concerned with if going with foam core. Think of the thinner in the paint, it caused the foam to dissolve in my tests. Also, test rivets to the skin, my tests showed this was the point the delamination started. Try and source honeycomb with foam injection. Something like www.rhinokore.com/ although I could not get them to sell to me.
most amaaaaaizing video ever
You are correct!
I have a 3500 cab and chassis and want to build a overland type camper on back of it . Where do you get the plans and materials list for your build ?
Walter
In our case we designed it from the ground up. I'm not aware of anywhere that sells plans.
Interesting project! Quite european style und unusual on a US truck, imho.
I watches several of your videos but I missed some tings. 1 was mentioned in a different area: 3-point connection to the letter frame. Which is an important move!
2 I miss the dimension of the cabin. I can roughly estimate the truck size, but how long, wide and especially high is the cabin? And overall height? The cabin looks relatively narrow behind the front - which is nice. I guess you can stand right up, which is 6 foot something??
Height 3.20m, Length is 7.67m, Width is 2.25m
Enjoyed the video. Could you not put the crown side up on the tubing that is curved ? The Weight that goes on it should straighten it out???
It turned out that the welding warped it much further and it would need to be straightened anyway.
Hello come across your videos and their great please keep them up. What cad program did you use please struggling to find something online in the uk. Hop you can help
AutoCAD and SolidWorks
What design software did you use? Great work, looks awsome!
Solidworks is what I was already familiar with.
Just discovered you all cant wait to catch up on youtube following along on Instagram as well
Is that stove paint on exhaust?
No, I used VHT Ceramic Header Paint. 👍
Is that aluminium tube heavy? Name of aluminium tube?
It's made from 6061 Aluminium which weighs ~2700kg/m³
The shape is called "Square Tubing" and we built ours from 2x2🍌 with 3/16🍌 wall thickness.
Therefor the weight of the aluminum we used is 2.43kg per meter
@@Everlanders awesome thanks.
How many ft of tube did it take? How many ft or meters did you buy?
Also what aluminum did you use? 6061-T3?
+Travis R I used 140 ft of 6061-T6511 3/16 2in tubing for the subframe, maybe a bit Overkill, you may get away with less and space it out a bit more.
what alloy aluminum and what wire for the spoolgun are you using im having some trouble on my build
Our Subframe and Exoskeleton was all 6061, and we used ER4043 for both MIG and TIG processes.
@@Everlanders thank you im going to grind down all of my welds and and switch from 5356 to 4043
Might be obvious, but you need to shield with Argan not to CO2...
@@Everlanders yes definitely im using %100 argon with a 5356 wire i may switch
You probably already know that you can buy blades designed to cut aluminum that vut through aluminum like butter. Its worth it to have one on hand, they are so much safer.
Yes, metal blades have less rake and are normally run on lower RPM saws... But I only had these few cuts to do this way.
Pretty sure those small discrepancies in the bow of the aluminum is from the extrusion process...
No, the material was all super flat when we got it, but because many of the welds were on one side of the tube, it will always curl in that direction. A well known issue when welding aluminum.
@@Everlanders oh sure, if you welded it yeah, that will happen, that's why you need to spot weld first and weld in patterns, but I'm talking before the welding... @ 3:00...
The whole point of the video is welding the subframe... And everything was spot-welded, by an experienced journeyman welder. But without clamping the whole thing to a welding table or other fixture there's no way around it.
In the video you say 3/16 wall tubing, but in the description it says 3/32.
Thanks, 3/16 is correct, I'll fix the description. 👍