The use case in this scenario has turned me from a hoarder into a wizard in the eyes of my lady. She didn't understand why I keep a bit of older gear, tech, wiring around until I showed her that it's impossible to get these things anymore. Especially when you need them. Thanks for another great video, guys. It's always great to see a post. 🤙🏽
I don't own this rifle or know anyone who does, however I will never forget this method when I run into someone who has this style of rifle and needs to do what you pointed out in your video. Amazing engineering.
About 6 years ago, I bought a pair for safety wire pliers from E-bay. A beautiful tool that will twist a wire so pretty. Mine are Milbar brand, and never had any issues. They also work well for safety wire tying your knock-offs for pin drive wheels on a Cobra.
Test the wire with a magnet to determine if it is copper or plated steel. I think high frequencies travel in the outer surface of wire so the core can be different than the outer layer.
My dad has a milk crate full of Coax cable that he refuses to throw away, probably because he knows like I do that after 20+ years of keeping it he'll need it a week after throwing it away.
Ha! I did the same thing for an old collection or friend. He had his 1891 hanging on the wall with yellowed scotch tape holding the handguard on. I couldn't resist offering a free repair. I also used some Coax core!
I have used your boil and card method of conservation on a couple english bulldog revolvers that were nickel plated. This seems to have removed all the plating. The guns do look much better than before. I am curious about your method for conserving nickel plated guns. Please add british bulldog rehab to your list. Thanks much!
The wire that came off of mine was brass I think. Was too short to get back on so I used copper like so. Only had 14 gauge on hand though so I hammer drew it down to size. Also square. The added work hardening increases the risk of snappage all the more.
@@webtoedman Oh, I know, I just didn't bother, (didn't have a torch on hand). I think it works with copper alloys too, brass and the like. which, I, suppose, would still count as copper...
On my 1891 Argentine, whoever owned it before me cut channels in the stock and just wound the wire all the way around (and I think soldered the ends together, I can't find the seam)
Is that solid copper RG6? Most of the stuff I've worked with was copper clad steel core. I guess if you do this make sure that you have the Good Stuff™.
I read on a forum to use 18 gauge copper wire. I was told it was clipped on so I tried it that way and it didn’t work. Then basically twisted the copper wire like a twist tie because I couldn’t figure out any other way of doing it. Now you see this video and I realize I did it the right way accidentally. The one I handled someone used sewing thread.
What about galvanic corrosion with such dissimilar metals in contact ? With those two it's the steel that will corrode. Maybe a zinc wire should be used instead, which will corrode in contact with steel, protecting the barrel.
Where is the electrolyte? In order to have a battery, there must be a return path for electrons. Also, copper is what the Argentines specified in the first place.
I think as long as you keep the rifle away from salt water, you should be fine. Collectable firearms should not be stored in a manner where any sort of corrosion has a chance to start.
Funny enough I did this exact thing a few years ago for my mauser. Dumb luck I guess, definitely wasn't smarts. I used copper because that's all I had.
Most RG6 these days is CCS (Copper Coated Steel). For data, solid copper offers no advantage over CCS (which is much cheaper). Don't just grab any old RG6. Just sayin.
The issue with CCS is that the cladding is so thin that I wouldn't consider it durable against abrasion, which in time can put the repair right back to steel on steel. If you want a solid copper wire from RG6, just look at the snip. If it's silver, it's steel. Does it matter? I can't say. It's just an IT PSA.
TH-cam is getting crazy with these shadow bands. I didn't get a single notification and for some reason all the videos I've watched have been unwatched
People who do not read are just as bad off as those who cannot................just sayin
Indeed
Mark Twain.
Passes the float test.
I fail to get the reference. Someone says you quoted Mark Twain, is that correct?
Hello Mark, The correct wire for this job is Brass wire of 0.7 mm SALUDOS From ARGENTINA
The use case in this scenario has turned me from a hoarder into a wizard in the eyes of my lady. She didn't understand why I keep a bit of older gear, tech, wiring around until I showed her that it's impossible to get these things anymore. Especially when you need them.
Thanks for another great video, guys. It's always great to see a post. 🤙🏽
Not hoarding if you actually put it to use.
I did not wake up this morning, and think that I would watch Mark twist wire. And yet, I found it informative.
I don't own this rifle or know anyone who does, however I will never forget this method when I run into someone who has this style of rifle and needs to do what you pointed out in your video. Amazing engineering.
About 6 years ago, I bought a pair for safety wire pliers from E-bay. A beautiful tool that will twist a wire so pretty. Mine are Milbar brand, and never had any issues. They also work well for safety wire tying your knock-offs for pin drive wheels on a Cobra.
Bell wire from the hardware store is probably a better source of solid #18, some cheaper TV coax uses a copper plated steel center conductor.
I never knew that the hand guards on the rifle was held on with wire. Learned something new today. Thank you Sir.
91 Mauser only.
Much of my time between watching Marks videos is spent waiting for the next one to come out. Outstanding content!
Thermostat wire is typically 18ga, solid copper wire as well. Gives you another option.
Outstanding.
Pull on the pliers when you wind. You get a nice twist.
Test the wire with a magnet to determine if it is copper or plated steel. I think high frequencies travel in the outer surface of wire so the core can be different than the outer layer.
Many of these coaxial are steel core copper clad.
don’t even own this gun, but i’ll never forget this info now. thanks mark!
Mystery solved! I've seen many 91s without handguards.
Just used this technique to fix my 1891; thanks Mark!
Muy bueno!!! Saludos desde Argentina
Thank you for sharing this Mark!
My dad has a milk crate full of Coax cable that he refuses to throw away, probably because he knows like I do that after 20+ years of keeping it he'll need it a week after throwing it away.
Damn straight!
Absolutely right ! I cleared my old lock up out, burnt and binned a lot of stuff, most of which I needed in the next couple of months.
Obligatory comment to stimulate the algorithm. Thank you Mark.
Ha! I did the same thing for an old collection or friend. He had his 1891 hanging on the wall with yellowed scotch tape holding the handguard on. I couldn't resist offering a free repair. I also used some Coax core!
The copper cable is steel wire coated with copper.
A lot of new coax has copper plated steel center conductor
Like the wire on the M14 ..end seal.
I have used your boil and card method of conservation on a couple english bulldog revolvers that were nickel plated. This seems to have removed all the plating. The guns do look much better than before. I am curious about your method for conserving nickel plated guns. Please add british bulldog rehab to your list. Thanks much!
The ever present acraglas backdrop.
👍😄👍!!!
Outstanding!
The wire that came off of mine was brass I think. Was too short to get back on so I used copper like so. Only had 14 gauge on hand though so I hammer drew it down to size. Also square. The added work hardening increases the risk of snappage all the more.
It can be annealed by heating and dumping in cold water, or heating and leaving to cool. Copper is, I believe, the only metal where either works.
@@webtoedman Oh, I know, I just didn't bother, (didn't have a torch on hand). I think it works with copper alloys too, brass and the like. which, I, suppose, would still count as copper...
Great info. Thanks!
On my 1891 Argentine, whoever owned it before me cut channels in the stock and just wound the wire all the way around (and I think soldered the ends together, I can't find the seam)
Thanks Mark
Nice and easy fix. 👍
Is that solid copper RG6? Most of the stuff I've worked with was copper clad steel core. I guess if you do this make sure that you have the Good Stuff™.
Is this something only a former electrician, turned Master Gunsmith would know?
Nice tip👍👏👏👏👏
Thank you
I read on a forum to use 18 gauge copper wire. I was told it was clipped on so I tried it that way and it didn’t work. Then basically twisted the copper wire like a twist tie because I couldn’t figure out any other way of doing it. Now you see this video and I realize I did it the right way accidentally.
The one I handled someone used sewing thread.
thanks mark
Thanks again
THANK YOU!!!
If that rifle has a bad bolt turndown job and all the crests are ground or gouged off, I may personally know that rifle…
So basically the 1893 Mauser is wireless?
Yes. Prior to 1893 bluetooth technology wasn't invented and we attached things with wires or carrier pigeons.
Most coax is copper clad steel wire.
👍👍👍
What about galvanic corrosion with such dissimilar metals in contact ? With those two it's the steel that will corrode. Maybe a zinc wire should be used instead, which will corrode in contact with steel, protecting the barrel.
Where is the electrolyte? In order to have a battery, there must be a return path for electrons. Also, copper is what the Argentines specified in the first place.
@@marknovak8255:
Sweat? 🤷
I think as long as you keep the rifle away from salt water, you should be fine. Collectable firearms should not be stored in a manner where any sort of corrosion has a chance to start.
Thank you for sharing this with us this is something that I would do and I'm country 😂six stars sir
Get yourself a pair of bonsai jin pliers. You wont regret it. We use them to wire trees. They are made for ease of use.
Who would have thunk!
Interesting.
Funny enough I did this exact thing a few years ago for my mauser. Dumb luck I guess, definitely wasn't smarts. I used copper because that's all I had.
Last time I bought copper wire I bought it at radio shack...
Careful, modern RG6 is copper coated steel wire.
came here to say this.
Ditto.
Los argentinos siempre atando cosas con alambre 😂😂
The devil is in the details but sometimes they aren't hard to spot
Most RG6 these days is CCS (Copper Coated Steel). For data, solid copper offers no advantage over CCS (which is much cheaper). Don't just grab any old RG6. Just sayin.
I'm curious as to why so many think it matters, because it doesn't.
The issue with CCS is that the cladding is so thin that I wouldn't consider it durable against abrasion, which in time can put the repair right back to steel on steel. If you want a solid copper wire from RG6, just look at the snip. If it's silver, it's steel.
Does it matter? I can't say. It's just an IT PSA.
TH-cam is getting crazy with these shadow bands. I didn't get a single notification and for some reason all the videos I've watched have been unwatched
😮
They also unsubscribe viewers too 🫤
Outstanding!
👍👍