I was finally able to pull the trigger today and order this monster! I used your discount code and with all the accessories I included, I saved over $640! Thanks sir! (I got the PiBurn Laser Rotary Attachment 4.0 (PiBurn V4.0) from Lens Digital × 1 Magnetic Adjustable Feet / OMTech Upgraded 4.0)…but haven’t seen many videos about it so I’m hoping it is worth the extra money! Can’t wait to get it all but it said it could be 75 days. I’m only over in Arizona so hopefully shipping time from CA will be reduced…
That burr is called Dross. The temperature isn’t close to being too hot for that cold roll steal. As far as the brass the wave lengths are the problem as it reflects too much and absorbs the heat so rapidly.
I knew there was a word for it and just couldn’t come up with it 🤦🏻♂️. You are very right the other metals are highly reflective and resist the co2 wave lengths. Thanks for the insight!
I have the same machine as you, the Pro 3655. I am still getting everything sorted out but I had really good results with 5mm/s at 40% power with 18ga carbon steel at 80 psi oxygen. I used a 90 degree lead in and no lead out. I was doing 0.250" holes so I used a 5 mm lead in and it worked really well avoiding any blowouts. These results had very little dross, almost none. You are like using higher power which causes more heat. I have also been cutting stainless steel shim stock 0.010", 0.015" and 0.020". For these I have been using 20mm/s at 60% with 120 psi oxygen with pretty good results and very little dross. Still trying to get it all dialed in but it is working.
Great information! Thank you for sharing. What you are saying really confirms my assumptions. I did some stainless steel cuts at 30mm/s at 70% that were really clean.
Man I’ll be ordering my Hybrid next month and am pumped to see the results of the metal cutting here! Thanks for the info on what settings are working well for you sir!
Did you try lowering your Oxygen psi for the 18ga carbon steel during your tests? For what it's worth...on my diy 1k fiber machine, the oxygen is only run at about 9psi. I know it's a different type of laser, but when I saw all of the puddling in your test cuts it made me think I would try high power and low psi gas.
here are the settings i've found to work when cutting 18ga mild-steel with our 155w laser. The products we have been making with these settings come out clean every time. If i find more efficient settings i'll post them on the lightburn forum under (Boss HP 3655 155w Mild-Steel Settings) Lightburn Settings Oxygen PSI: 70 (note: what i’ve found is it is important that when the laser is cutting that the oxygen psi is at 70) Speed mm/sec: 6 Power Max: 100 Power Min: 100 PPI: 1150 Boss Laser Pierce Settings Drilling Power: 95 Drilling Total Time: 1.50 Drilling Intervals: 0.60
I will try those settings with mine. Thank you for the share.. if you dont mind, what or do you have settings that you have found to be productive towards Stainless Steel? Thanks again.
Would be curious if you were able to get the metal cutting corrected? I am looking at picking up one of these while the sale is still going, but will be cutting 18 GA Mild and Stainless Steel, and want to make sure it actually can cut them well. Especially if having to wait the 75 days for delivery.
That is unfortunate about the 18ga steel considering I am in the market to purchase a laser table. I have a plasma cnc table and I have to play with volts and pressure to cut certain metals. You're running too much gas or too high psi. You also may be able to clean up the "dross" on the back of the SS with adjusting the setting some. Typically the power is too much, causing the dross. As far as the copper and aluminum, have you applied any tape to block the reflection?
Hi! We got our hybrid laser a few days ago. Upon unboxing, we noticed that the wheels completely crumble and the machine is fixated on the wood platform it came on. We have contacted omtech for this and they figuring things out. Did this happen to you? The you placed a new set of wheels on it?
I run dual 250 LB cylinders and a 300W twin tube setup, and have cut up to 3mm SS. Mostly just 18 gauge though. I usually set a 250-500 ms Start pause cut-through with the power down 5% from the running cut, 0.10 mm overcut, 3mm lead-in and no lead-out. Usually a -90* lead-in for pieces being removed and a 30* for the piece to keep (remember you can select the start point in lightburn). Mild steel sucks to cut, you may have better luck with nitrogen as the assist gas for that, i haven't tried it yet.
Can you show us your O2 bottle connection? I can’t seem to find the right fittings to connect my regulator to the small air lines that came with the machine. Thx!
Thanks for the overview. Based on this, thinking of going with a lower-end Laser 80-100W and a plasma table like from Langmuir. This way I can cut aluminum also.
Sorry if this was asked already , but do you know if possible to convert my original 150w to a hybrid? I know that omtech doesnt offer anything. But i feel like there is always a way....
The oxygen assists the cutting by oxidizing to help with the metal removal process. Perhaps you could cut thinner metal with an inert gas, but the oxygen helps the cut for the thicker stuff for sure.
Thanks man for the video. Supper helpful! Did you actually try aluminum? that's why I was planning to buy this machine and so disappointed to hear you saying i wouldn't work on that.
Thanks for such educational videos. Had a question . Is there a manufacturer / brand name on the laser head on the omtech pro. I’m researching on hybrid head machines . Don’t see any with detachable nozzles. Thought I’d ask before digging deeper.Thanks
I have a different manufactured CO2 laser hybrid, but the same setup. I had the same problem with cold steel as well I have tried a lot of different settings, but the same results. The stainless steel works well, but I had a few questions. 1. I wanted to know if you have had any wrapping issues on the ss after cutting, my ss starts to wrap on bigger projects, and if so have ways to help reduce that. 2. What was the gauge of that ss? 3. Have had an error message for bigger projects that says "Follow Error Message", have you seen that? Great content !
On question 3 I have had that error message a handful of times, I found it always to be a Z limit reached. On the screen for the metal nozzle there would be an asterisk either next to the UL or LL (upper limit/lower limit). This happened because I either didn't set the correct distance prior to calibrating or the material warped and then the signal will have the Z travel until it hits the limit, resulting in follow error message.
I have been cutting SS shim stock so far imperial sizes 0.010", 0.015" and 0.020", metric equivalent would be roughly 0.25mm, 0.375mm and 0.5mm. I have some 16ga SS (1.5mm) on the way and 0.005" or 0.125mm as well. @@GODISSOVEREIGN1000
I watched your air assist upgrade on your previous machine. I. just got the 80w Pro and was wondering if you upgraded your air assist on that? If so do you have a video? The lay out on these machines are different and I am struggling a bit to get this done. Thanks!!
The 150w hybrid is very different than the other pro models. The 150w already has an air assist that can be driven by a compressor. On the 80/100w pro the process would be very similar to the air assist video that I did.
The process of cutting mild steel with CO2 laser is as much of a chemical reaction. You basically use the laser to start a chemical reaction between the oxygen & the iron within the steel, causing rapid oxidation. Stainless steel is much different & requires more power & gas but will produce a gold or black edge
I was finally able to pull the trigger today and order this monster! I used your discount code and with all the accessories I included, I saved over $640! Thanks sir! (I got the PiBurn Laser Rotary Attachment 4.0 (PiBurn V4.0) from Lens Digital × 1 Magnetic Adjustable Feet / OMTech Upgraded 4.0)…but haven’t seen many videos about it so I’m hoping it is worth the extra money! Can’t wait to get it all but it said it could be 75 days. I’m only over in Arizona so hopefully shipping time from CA will be reduced…
That burr is called Dross. The temperature isn’t close to being too hot for that cold roll steal. As far as the brass the wave lengths are the problem as it reflects too much and absorbs the heat so rapidly.
I knew there was a word for it and just couldn’t come up with it 🤦🏻♂️. You are very right the other metals are highly reflective and resist the co2 wave lengths. Thanks for the insight!
I had no idea you could cut metal with only 150w. Someone told me 300w minimum for metal. super cool
I have the same machine as you, the Pro 3655. I am still getting everything sorted out but I had really good results with 5mm/s at 40% power with 18ga carbon steel at 80 psi oxygen. I used a 90 degree lead in and no lead out. I was doing 0.250" holes so I used a 5 mm lead in and it worked really well avoiding any blowouts. These results had very little dross, almost none. You are like using higher power which causes more heat. I have also been cutting stainless steel shim stock 0.010", 0.015" and 0.020". For these I have been using 20mm/s at 60% with 120 psi oxygen with pretty good results and very little dross. Still trying to get it all dialed in but it is working.
Great information! Thank you for sharing. What you are saying really confirms my assumptions. I did some stainless steel cuts at 30mm/s at 70% that were really clean.
Man I’ll be ordering my Hybrid next month and am pumped to see the results of the metal cutting here! Thanks for the info on what settings are working well for you sir!
Awesome! That’s so exciting!
Grab the code BEARDEDBUILDS5OFF to get your savings and support my content.
@@BeardedBuildsCowill do thx sir!
Did you try lowering your Oxygen psi for the 18ga carbon steel during your tests? For what it's worth...on my diy 1k fiber machine, the oxygen is only run at about 9psi. I know it's a different type of laser, but when I saw all of the puddling in your test cuts it made me think I would try high power and low psi gas.
I’ll have to give that a try!
here are the settings i've found to work when cutting 18ga mild-steel with our 155w laser. The products we have been making with these settings come out clean every time. If i find more efficient settings i'll post them on the lightburn forum under (Boss HP 3655 155w Mild-Steel Settings)
Lightburn Settings
Oxygen PSI: 70 (note: what i’ve found is it is important that when the laser is cutting that the oxygen psi is at 70)
Speed mm/sec: 6
Power Max: 100
Power Min: 100
PPI: 1150
Boss Laser Pierce Settings
Drilling Power: 95
Drilling Total Time: 1.50
Drilling Intervals: 0.60
Curious if you have the setting for the Bosslaser HP3655 that works for the Mild Steel
I will try those settings with mine. Thank you for the share.. if you dont mind, what or do you have settings that you have found to be productive towards Stainless Steel? Thanks again.
I'm still waiting for my machine to arrive. But I'd love to see more videos showing the different things you can do.
Would be curious if you were able to get the metal cutting corrected? I am looking at picking up one of these while the sale is still going, but will be cutting 18 GA Mild and Stainless Steel, and want to make sure it actually can cut them well. Especially if having to wait the 75 days for delivery.
That is unfortunate about the 18ga steel considering I am in the market to purchase a laser table. I have a plasma cnc table and I have to play with volts and pressure to cut certain metals. You're running too much gas or too high psi. You also may be able to clean up the "dross" on the back of the SS with adjusting the setting some. Typically the power is too much, causing the dross. As far as the copper and aluminum, have you applied any tape to block the reflection?
Hi! We got our hybrid laser a few days ago. Upon unboxing, we noticed that the wheels completely crumble and the machine is fixated on the wood platform it came on. We have contacted omtech for this and they figuring things out. Did this happen to you? The you placed a new set of wheels on it?
I run dual 250 LB cylinders and a 300W twin tube setup, and have cut up to 3mm SS. Mostly just 18 gauge though. I usually set a 250-500 ms Start pause cut-through with the power down 5% from the running cut, 0.10 mm overcut, 3mm lead-in and no lead-out. Usually a -90* lead-in for pieces being removed and a 30* for the piece to keep (remember you can select the start point in lightburn). Mild steel sucks to cut, you may have better luck with nitrogen as the assist gas for that, i haven't tried it yet.
Thank you so much for the input!
@@BeardedBuildsCo one more thing, galvanized steel fumes are toxic, be careful there
Can you show us your O2 bottle connection? I can’t seem to find the right fittings to connect my regulator to the small air lines that came with the machine. Thx!
Thanks for the overview. Based on this, thinking of going with a lower-end Laser 80-100W and a plasma table like from Langmuir. This way I can cut aluminum also.
Have you tried cutting dibond material?
Sorry if this was asked already , but do you know if possible to convert my original 150w to a hybrid? I know that omtech doesnt offer anything. But i feel like there is always a way....
I am curious to know if nitrogen can be used instead of oxygen on the 150w CO2 laser. What would be to pros and cons. Love the video 💯👍🏼
The oxygen assists the cutting by oxidizing to help with the metal removal process. Perhaps you could cut thinner metal with an inert gas, but the oxygen helps the cut for the thicker stuff for sure.
@Appletreedude thank you 👍🏼
Thanks man for the video. Supper helpful! Did you actually try aluminum? that's why I was planning to buy this machine and so disappointed to hear you saying i wouldn't work on that.
It does absolutely nothing to aluminum or any other metal other than steel variations.
Thanks for such educational videos. Had a question . Is there a manufacturer / brand name on the laser head on the omtech pro. I’m researching on hybrid head machines . Don’t see any with detachable nozzles. Thought I’d ask before digging deeper.Thanks
I have a different manufactured CO2 laser hybrid, but the same setup. I had the same problem with cold steel as well I have tried a lot of different settings, but the same results. The stainless steel works well, but I had a few questions.
1. I wanted to know if you have had any wrapping issues on the ss after cutting, my ss starts to wrap on bigger projects, and if so have ways to help reduce that.
2. What was the gauge of that ss?
3. Have had an error message for bigger projects that says "Follow Error Message", have you seen that?
Great content !
On question 3 I have had that error message a handful of times, I found it always to be a Z limit reached. On the screen for the metal nozzle there would be an asterisk either next to the UL or LL (upper limit/lower limit). This happened because I either didn't set the correct distance prior to calibrating or the material warped and then the signal will have the Z travel until it hits the limit, resulting in follow error message.
Okay thanks, what gauge of SS using@@Appletreedude
I have been cutting SS shim stock so far imperial sizes 0.010", 0.015" and 0.020", metric equivalent would be roughly 0.25mm, 0.375mm and 0.5mm. I have some 16ga SS (1.5mm) on the way and 0.005" or 0.125mm as well. @@GODISSOVEREIGN1000
I watched your air assist upgrade on your previous machine. I. just got the 80w Pro and was wondering if you upgraded your air assist on that? If so do you have a video? The lay out on these machines are different and I am struggling a bit to get this done. Thanks!!
The 150w hybrid is very different than the other pro models. The 150w already has an air assist that can be driven by a compressor.
On the 80/100w pro the process would be very similar to the air assist video that I did.
Have you try to cut Dibond?
I have not, but I doubt it will work because this is aluminum product. And aluminum has higher reflective properties.
Just a suggestion, you may want to use a real oxygen hose. Oxygen can make some nasty explosions, and air hose may be a bit more prone to puncture.
Switch to high pressure air for better results.
Too much gas on your mild steel. Aim for 1bar with oxygen.
Good to know! Thank you!
The process of cutting mild steel with CO2 laser is as much of a chemical reaction.
You basically use the laser to start a chemical reaction between the oxygen & the iron within the steel, causing rapid oxidation.
Stainless steel is much different & requires more power & gas but will produce a gold or black edge
BTW I worked with industrial lasers for 20 years cutting anything from 3/4” steel to engraving MDF
@@richardthornton9318 can you help me with set up and add ons
one guy is cutting 3mm mild steel sheets on chinese 100w co2 laser every day
Who?
@@BeardedBuildsCo its a guy far from me, speaks russian and sadly i dont remember his name