Gidday Chris! Amp sounds great now! Good job! Hey I love the look of that Weber speaker, what a magnet! Tremolo sounds perfect, reverb good. Good idea with the ss rectifier. I didn't even know they made those things! Just different value resistors inside to emulate different rectifier tubes ay? What a good idea! No more 3 or 4 amp heater current, which caused many probs in my amp. I see the re-issues use those 'puddle of mud' caps on the pcb.I don't like them. I uprated all mine to 600V orange drops, just in case. Your voice comes across well with your lapel mic. I wish more utubers would use them, like the dog daddy! There's a 12 inch unmarked speaker in my 'Legacy valve sound 15' ie - Epi Valve Standard. If I were to upgrade the speaker, would a 12 inch version of that Weber speaker in the Princeton be worthwhile do you think? The current speaker is ok, but it seems like I've fixed up/upgraded every other part of this amp so why not the speaker too? It has a 130 mm dia magnet, so it's not small. Cheers! 😃👍
Thanks Neville. That's fantastic feedback all-round. I'm glad the lapel mic works well. My bigger concern was the overhead shots where I switch to a Rode shotgun mic that's about 1m (3 ft) away from my mouth. How does that sound to you? I am very happy that you liked the results on the Princeton.
@@theguitaramptech Yeah your voice comes across well mate! Clear as a bell. I've watched this video before & obviously forgotten, cos I've gone to comment again! D'oh! Now who's the idiot? Anyway, I had fun the 2nd time too! I assume you got new 6V6's in, but where is thermistor in the circuit? - In series with the first filter cap? Is it originally in the amp or is that a G.A.T. mod? Hey that 'Howling at the moon' demo song sounds a lot like one of the medley of bars of songs that Uncle Doug often uses when doing his sound tests!
Chris - i recently started watching your channel and really enjoy your videos. I may be wrong, but I believe the power tube retainers are called "bear traps", rather than bear claws. They resemble some barbaric Medieval devices designed to snap around a bear's leg. Keep up the great work!
Hi Carl. I am very happy that you are watching my videos and that you are getting some value from them. Of course, you are right with the correct phrase being "bear traps". This is but one of many of the "dry joints" between my brain and mouth. I appreciate you finding this dry joint as I would any (all) future "dry joints". I depend on good knowledgeable people like you to alert me to them. So many dry joints. So many.
Agree re speaker distortion. Just be contrary, I'll share with you that I have a smooth cone speaker that I really, really like. However, you'll be pleased to know it's a Weber. It's a 10A100 that I got for a Champ 5F1 clone I made, so I don't think the poor little 6V6 is ever going to push that speaker to distortion. It sounds glorious.
How cool is a 10" speaker in a Champ! That's actually what got me thinking about the TweedTone 12A (Have you seen that video?). It eventually developed into a 12" and a 6L6. It sounds HUGE. I agree, Splattle. A smooth cone is fine so long as you stay well under its rated limits. The 10A100 is a 15w peaker driven by a 5w amp. Easy,
What about the shock of the 440V A+, B,C,&D plus voltages hitting the tube plates almost instantly before their filaments heat up? The original tube rectifier ramped the high voltage up very slowly as it warmed up, but now it goes up instantly with the solid state rectifier before the tubes warm up. This is known to reduce tube life by 30%. A good argument for installing a standby switch, like the Deluxe Reverb, or just using the original 5AR4 Rectifier. The Weber looks suspiciously like a 10" Jensen frame and cone with a Jensen C12K Ceramic magnet.
Thank you for your astute observations and comments. Yes, in a perfect world, the amp would slowly ramp (at least within a few seconds) to its maximum voltage and not exceed the voltage on the schematics. The closest way to achieve this is by having a Variac beside your amp. Not a practical solution for anywhere but home. The large current consumer in an amp is the 5v rectifier supply. Eliminating this will extend the usable life of a Power Transformer. But you have raised some good points. I'm sorry, but I'm not sure about your speaker reference. I ordered it directly from Weber. If you suspect they are fraudulently misrepresenting their product, I recommend confronting TA Weber (Ted’s son). TA, like his Dad, are honourable men rightly proud of their product. Also, Italian Jensens are made with metric components and Weber uses imperial.
Good morning Chris,I can't agree with the morning coffee but whatever makes you happy. As a p.s to last video and your reply, fantastic news and i had hoped the top story regrowth was a positive sign,all the best. You may get my '68 custom one day but for the present it seems,at least to me,good
Hey Chris...Nice finish and demo..I was hoping your furry friend might have helped with a howl or two, in keeping with the tune demo played..😂 Great video, and more stuff learned..Thanks for sharing mate..Love it..Ed uk..😊
All my Princetons Get a Weber 12A125A, its an Alnico. I've been so happy with it since the first time I installed one I never even wanted to try anything else. Without a doubt this Ceramic Weber sounds great . . Also, Im not sure why but Princetons seem to be a more forgiving amp in terms of lead dress related noise. Ive seen builds that are just a jumbled mass of wire & they are dead quiet. Of course , like you, I try to keep things as tidy as possible. .
The Weber 12A125A is a beautiful speaker, Joe, but it requires a new baffle board. I prefer Alnicos, too, but there is a substantial cost increase for my customer.
Very interesting videos Chris. I always love it when I learn new things. What did I learned? 1) that Mho is the same as Siemens (which was the unity of conductivity as it is teached here in Flanders) and 2) The Copper Caps of Weber. I will try one in my next build. Thank you Chris !
Thank you. That’s very cool, William. Yes, I think it was in the early '70s that the “mho” was replaced with “Siemens”. I think you meant to say ”conductance”. You’ll find conductivity has the unit of µS/cm. Even though You can easily build a Copper Cap, I like the fact that the high voltages are safely enclosed and you can sway different rectifiers quickly and safely.
Hi Chris, Could you offer some direct clear info regarding safe "discharging" of caps after being powered up while bench testing work has been carried out. There seems to be conflicting info I read concerning this. Some say no need to do it. I've also seen how to discharge retained power in the 500v caps prior to start working on the circuit board, I own a Princeton 63 Reverb Re-issue and they obviously have no Standby switch. Thanks
Easy answer. I ALWAYS discharge. When your amp is powered ON use your Multimeter to find the highest voltage you can safely and easily access. Remember that spot. Make yourself a discharging tool. Mine has a 10w 100 ohm resistor shrouded in heatshrink As you will see in many of my videos I use yellow heatshrink so I will see it! I have forgotten to remove the discharging tool several times, so I have also put in an inline fuse. Since installing the fuse, I have never forgotten it again. If you are a gambling man, you can leave the amp off for 15 minutes in the hope that the manufacturer installed a drain resistor, or you can leave the Standby ON while you power off. Make a coffee, check that your Will is up-to-date and start working. ALWAYS discharge.
I'm wondering if you can answer a question for me? I have an amp that has a speaker output impedance switch on it, 4ohm, 8ohm and 16ohm. The amp is designed to operate at 8ohms with it's internal speaker, but I noticed recently that the impedance switch was set to 16ohms and I had been playing it like that for a while. It actually sounds better this way, more attack. My question is: will playing the amp at 16ohms into an 8ohm speaker do any real damage as I don't play it loud? The schematic shows that these impedances are derived from different secondary taps of the output transformer, the circuit sees the same primary coil impedance.
You’re almost right, Dennis. The only point of difference we have is your comment about “the same primary coil resistance”. Without getting too deep into the theory, it's best to view the output transformer as an “impedance mather”. These different secondary taps use the transformer's impedance ratio from its turns ratio. This is what keeps the primary impedance constant. I am sure you will find detailed descriptions of this topic on YT. Uncle Doug is a retired teacher and explains things beautifully. Try his channel @uncledoug. Back to your question. Valve amps are quite forgiving and you can often go up or down one setting without damage, not that I recommend it. A simple way to remember in the future is to recall that an OPT does not like being open circuit, but can tolerate a small time with a short across the speaker terminals. So, plugging a 16ohm tap into an 8ohm speaker is closer to a short. It may draw more current, so keep the levels down and the time short and you will probably be OK.
HAHAHAHAHAHA! Yeah, right, Mike. All I can say is Bondi Beach originally had a fairly short sewerage outflow. It's been extended for a while now, so no more Bondi cigars are likely to float into shore. I know Shane and Al regret that choice of name they made back in 1989.
great info!
Gracias, amigo mío
Gidday Chris! Amp sounds great now! Good job! Hey I love the look of that Weber speaker, what a magnet! Tremolo sounds perfect, reverb good. Good idea with the ss rectifier. I didn't even know they made those things! Just different value resistors inside to emulate different rectifier tubes ay? What a good idea! No more 3 or 4 amp heater current, which caused many probs in my amp. I see the re-issues use those 'puddle of mud' caps on the pcb.I don't like them. I uprated all mine to 600V orange drops, just in case. Your voice comes across well with your lapel mic. I wish more utubers would use them, like the dog daddy!
There's a 12 inch unmarked speaker in my 'Legacy valve sound 15' ie - Epi Valve Standard. If I were to upgrade the speaker, would a 12 inch version of that Weber speaker in the Princeton be worthwhile do you think?
The current speaker is ok, but it seems like I've fixed up/upgraded every other part of this amp so why not the speaker too? It has a 130 mm dia magnet, so it's not small. Cheers! 😃👍
Thanks Neville. That's fantastic feedback all-round. I'm glad the lapel mic works well. My bigger concern was the overhead shots where I switch to a Rode shotgun mic that's about 1m (3 ft) away from my mouth. How does that sound to you? I am very happy that you liked the results on the Princeton.
@@theguitaramptech Yeah your voice comes across well mate! Clear as a bell.
I've watched this video before & obviously forgotten, cos I've gone to comment again! D'oh! Now who's the idiot? Anyway, I had fun the 2nd time too!
I assume you got new 6V6's in, but where is thermistor in the circuit? - In series with the first filter cap? Is it originally in the amp or is that a G.A.T. mod?
Hey that 'Howling at the moon' demo song sounds a lot like one of the medley of bars of songs that Uncle Doug often uses when doing his sound tests!
Chris - i recently started watching your channel and really enjoy your videos. I may be wrong, but I believe the power tube retainers are called "bear traps", rather than bear claws. They resemble some barbaric Medieval devices designed to snap around a bear's leg. Keep up the great work!
Hi Carl. I am very happy that you are watching my videos and that you are getting some value from them.
Of course, you are right with the correct phrase being "bear traps". This is but one of many of the "dry joints" between my brain and mouth. I appreciate you finding this dry joint as I would any (all) future "dry joints". I depend on good knowledgeable people like you to alert me to them. So many dry joints. So many.
@theguitaramptech I appreciate your self-deprecating sense of humour.
Agree re speaker distortion. Just be contrary, I'll share with you that I have a smooth cone speaker that I really, really like. However, you'll be pleased to know it's a Weber. It's a 10A100 that I got for a Champ 5F1 clone I made, so I don't think the poor little 6V6 is ever going to push that speaker to distortion. It sounds glorious.
How cool is a 10" speaker in a Champ! That's actually what got me thinking about the TweedTone 12A (Have you seen that video?). It eventually developed into a 12" and a 6L6. It sounds HUGE. I agree, Splattle. A smooth cone is fine so long as you stay well under its rated limits. The 10A100 is a 15w peaker driven by a 5w amp. Easy,
What about the shock of the 440V A+, B,C,&D plus voltages hitting the tube plates almost instantly before their filaments heat up? The original tube rectifier ramped the high voltage up very slowly as it warmed up, but now it goes up instantly with the solid state rectifier before the tubes warm up. This is known to reduce tube life by 30%. A good argument for installing a standby switch, like the Deluxe Reverb, or just using the original 5AR4 Rectifier. The Weber looks suspiciously like a 10" Jensen frame and cone with a Jensen C12K Ceramic magnet.
Thank you for your astute observations and comments. Yes, in a perfect world, the amp would slowly ramp (at least within a few seconds) to its maximum voltage and not exceed the voltage on the schematics. The closest way to achieve this is by having a Variac beside your amp. Not a practical solution for anywhere but home.
The large current consumer in an amp is the 5v rectifier supply. Eliminating this will extend the usable life of a Power Transformer. But you have raised some good points.
I'm sorry, but I'm not sure about your speaker reference. I ordered it directly from Weber. If you suspect they are fraudulently misrepresenting their product, I recommend confronting TA Weber (Ted’s son). TA, like his Dad, are honourable men rightly proud of their product. Also, Italian Jensens are made with metric components and Weber uses imperial.
Good morning Chris,I can't agree with the morning coffee but whatever makes you happy. As a p.s to last video and your reply, fantastic news and i had hoped the top story regrowth was a positive sign,all the best. You may get my '68 custom one day but for the present it seems,at least to me,good
Thank you Bruce!!
Hey Chris...Nice finish and demo..I was hoping your furry friend might have helped with a howl or two, in keeping with the tune demo played..😂 Great video, and more stuff learned..Thanks for sharing mate..Love it..Ed uk..😊
I'm glad you enjoyed Harley's cameo appearance. He is my onsite security for my client's amplifiers....and my best mate.
All my Princetons Get a Weber 12A125A, its an Alnico. I've been so happy with it since the first time I installed one I never even wanted to try anything else. Without a doubt this Ceramic Weber sounds great . . Also, Im not sure why but Princetons seem to be a more forgiving amp in terms of lead dress related noise. Ive seen builds that are just a jumbled mass of wire & they are dead quiet. Of course , like you, I try to keep things as tidy as possible. .
The Weber 12A125A is a beautiful speaker, Joe, but it requires a new baffle board. I prefer Alnicos, too, but there is a substantial cost increase for my customer.
Very interesting videos Chris. I always love it when I learn new things. What did I learned? 1) that Mho is the same as Siemens (which was the unity of conductivity as it is teached here in Flanders) and 2) The Copper Caps of Weber. I will try one in my next build. Thank you Chris !
Thank you. That’s very cool, William. Yes, I think it was in the early '70s that the “mho” was replaced with “Siemens”. I think you meant to say ”conductance”. You’ll find conductivity has the unit of µS/cm.
Even though You can easily build a Copper Cap, I like the fact that the high voltages are safely enclosed and you can sway different rectifiers quickly and safely.
Hi Chris, Could you offer some direct clear info regarding safe "discharging" of caps after being powered up while bench testing work has been carried out. There seems to be conflicting info I read concerning this. Some say no need to do it. I've also seen how to discharge retained power in the 500v caps prior to start working on the circuit board, I own a Princeton 63 Reverb Re-issue and they obviously have no Standby switch. Thanks
Easy answer. I ALWAYS discharge. When your amp is powered ON use your Multimeter to find the highest voltage you can safely and easily access. Remember that spot. Make yourself a discharging tool. Mine has a 10w 100 ohm resistor shrouded in heatshrink As you will see in many of my videos I use yellow heatshrink so I will see it! I have forgotten to remove the discharging tool several times, so I have also put in an inline fuse. Since installing the fuse, I have never forgotten it again.
If you are a gambling man, you can leave the amp off for 15 minutes in the hope that the manufacturer installed a drain resistor, or you can leave the Standby ON while you power off. Make a coffee, check that your Will is up-to-date and start working. ALWAYS discharge.
Sounded great as usual. You can't please all of the people all of the time, which is a politer way of saying there's just no pleasing some people.
I enjoy reading people's opinions, even when they're wrong....I mean "different to mine" !! Thanks mate.
I'm wondering if you can answer a question for me? I have an amp that has a speaker output impedance switch on it, 4ohm, 8ohm and 16ohm. The amp is designed to operate at 8ohms with it's internal speaker, but I noticed recently that the impedance switch was set to 16ohms and I had been playing it like that for a while. It actually sounds better this way, more attack.
My question is: will playing the amp at 16ohms into an 8ohm speaker do any real damage as I don't play it loud? The schematic shows that these impedances are derived from different secondary taps of the output transformer, the circuit sees the same primary coil impedance.
You’re almost right, Dennis. The only point of difference we have is your comment about “the same primary coil resistance”. Without getting too deep into the theory, it's best to view the output transformer as an “impedance mather”. These different secondary taps use the transformer's impedance ratio from its turns ratio. This is what keeps the primary impedance constant.
I am sure you will find detailed descriptions of this topic on YT. Uncle Doug is a retired teacher and explains things beautifully. Try his channel @uncledoug.
Back to your question. Valve amps are quite forgiving and you can often go up or down one setting without damage, not that I recommend it. A simple way to remember in the future is to recall that an OPT does not like being open circuit, but can tolerate a small time with a short across the speaker terminals. So, plugging a 16ohm tap into an 8ohm speaker is closer to a short. It may draw more current, so keep the levels down and the time short and you will probably be OK.
@@theguitaramptech That's good news, as I prefer the sound with the switch at 16ohms into the 8ohm speaker. Thank you sir!
Chris have you thought of explaining to your viewers the origin of the name 'Bondi Cigars"? Asking for a friend....
HAHAHAHAHAHA! Yeah, right, Mike. All I can say is Bondi Beach originally had a fairly short sewerage outflow. It's been extended for a while now, so no more Bondi cigars are likely to float into shore. I know Shane and Al regret that choice of name they made back in 1989.