Pro coaches pro by comparing climbing styles
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ย. 2024
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Matilda's Instagram:
/ matilda_soderlund
Mega thanks to William for filming, go follow his photography work here:
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Today Matilda Söderlund, an absolute beast and expert of body tension, coaches me on some moves and techniques. We test out our differences on three different boulders, and then break these down to see what I can do to better my body tension on the wall.
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Pro coaches pro should become a series
Id love to see this sort of thing with some other climbers of different styles like Pete Whitaker or Shawn/Brooke raboutou who also have there own unique ways of climbing.
Its really interesting to see the small changes that each climber does differently in detail
love that y'all are trying to learn from each other's differences, seems like a great way to get better
Matilda brings up such a good point about Adam's movement. It doesn't have to be this dichotomy of speed vs. efficiency. You can have both! Definitely something to address in my own climbing too.
Bouldering sometimes feels like it can have a bias towards explosive movement. This is a great example of how different styles can not only be incredibly useful, but are so damned hard if you're not used to them!
I find explosive movement really difficult and feel like I'm not strong enough for it, though can slowly move and balance on small crimps absolutely fine. Other climbers think I'm inhumanly strong because I can hold those positions, but I think they're inhumanly strong for doing a massive dyno; both sides feel like their opposite style requires way more strength. Different techniques, different styles, different people. Great video!
These collabs are so so good because each of you have so much to learn from each other and such a great understanding of your own unique movement styles! Matilda is great at explaining things and I love the two of your working together!
Cheers mate, I appreciate you saying so .-)
Just had a "HOLY! SH*T!" moment watching the last 2 seconds teaser of matildes balance/strength/mobility... I quit literately said (very loudly) those words out loud as I was watching the last few seconds of the video:D
Extremely instructional. I like seeing a pro on pro instruct, its alot more precise on whats happening between movements.
Matilda's span is absolutely crazy. Combined with super good hip mobility she's still able to become really compact when needed. Crazy..
This should become an entire series as the instruction level is off the charts!
More of these please! Seeing a really great climber learn new technique and styles is so helpful to find weaknesses in our own climbing. Keep it up Emil!
It does look like a bit of a flexibility/mobility difference. Great video. I think this highlights why it’s so meaningful to climb with good climbers who have a different style than your own.
Lat engagement at 17:06 on full display. Fascinating video! Matilda is very insightful.
This difference is insane: 16:18 vs 17:06
It's like she's fused to the wall!
Nice comparison video!
Really cool video. It would be interesting to know how much proportions play into climbing style. Even though Matilda and Emil are roughly the same height on paper their height is quite differently distributed. It looks like due to a combination of having a shorter torso and much better knee mobility Matilda is easily able to get her body into heinous dropknee positions that Emil struggles with.
Equally, knowing that she has a massive wingspan it must surely play a part in why she finds explosive power moves like Emil's beta on the second problem so hard (i.e. longer arms mean a much bigger lock off).
Yea ive also been trying to do a more controlled style and i run into very similar computation errors (although at a lot lower level) but ive had a TON of fun trying a more meticulous style of climbing
Nice mate. Good luck with your journey on it! Learning new styles of climbing can be incredibly rewarding
Really awesome video Emil & Matilda!
Climbing is so complex and diverse - to a climb or a boulder problem there are heaps of different styles and therefore different solutions.
Showcasing that it is worthwhile exploring different methods and styles that make us more complete climbers 🤙
I haven’t watched the video yet but I already know I’m gonna learn so much. Thanks for the great videos!
Best climbing channel for me right now.
So much to learn for everyone.
what a great video. I could see myself trying to apply mathilda's technical tips. thank you! also super funny when you got to try the boulder in your style - i thought the video was sped up because you breezed through it with so much gusto!
Lovely collab! Matilda is always so lovely and friendly! Also Emil, that "hip mobility/flexibility" you're talking about missing is a specific type: knee internal rotation. Check the angle between the hip and the knee. Matilda has much more rotation and that allows her to get the hips much closer when lower.
The end of the video was the best part!
The ondra example with the robe climb in, before flowing into the no-hands rest knee bar, was a really nice example of his movement.
That was really interesting! Loved the video! Matilda is really good explaining it. I love the fact that she forgets the camera and looks at you and the route. :)
sweet vid. maybe one difference is knee flexibility too. lookin at the black climb’s side-by-side comparison i noticed the matilda’s knee is much more externally rotated-you both have the same “heel angle” (just heel position with respect to the vertical), while matilda’s thigh is more parallel to the volume. on emil’s later attempts where he tries to replicate matilda’s positions, it seems as though he’s putting more weight over his left foot, since his hips appear to be closer. also note that (14:42) matilda’s left knee is obtusely bent-so her weight is more centered-while (16:19) emil’s left knee is acutely bent-so he’s rocking over the left foot more. i tested out the body positions: so for a variety of knee bend angles (knee flexion), creating a “heel angle” can be done with some varying combination of hip external rotation and knee external rotation; but to maintain the “heel angle” AND to keep the hips near the wall, that would need some more extreme external knee rotation. god save the knees
It was a small point, but I think this is the first time I've heard someone mention in a video, you have to have good finger strength to be able to 'hang' and relax your body. As a beginner, it was difficult to learn to climb 'correctly' with arms straight, not pulling bc I didn't have the grip strength yet, it was easier to rush through moves with poor technique bc it was faster.
Really great video. It's got me thinking about my technique. As a beginner I can already see how finger strength and conserving energy while climbing are so important.
im so looking forward to your mini documentary!
Cheers! I'm putting a lot of work and time into it, so I hope it'll be appreciated
It's interesting how different sport climbers and boulderers tend to tackle the same problem. Assuming each problem has an optimal way to climb it, I would've bet two elite climbers would converge on the same beta. But clearly you and Matilda climb the same problem in much different ways.
Is it more important to climb a problem the optimal way or to climb a problem the easiest way for yourself? I would imagine for training purposes, trying to find the optimal way is better, but if you're just trying to send then leveraging whatever strengths you have is more important. Just some rambly thoughts.
Super valuable to watch two completely different high level athletes like this! more, more more!
Super insightful and I'm so glad I saw this now! I think these skills are gonna be a huge help with the project that's currently kicking my butt! Keep up the awesome content!
Also, I love seeing Pro-climbers get stuck on a climb and start making strange baby-dinosaur noises of pain and confusion like the rest of us!
So humbling to hear "keep your hips closer to the wall" at their levels of climbing.
Real
This was excellent! Would love to see Pro Coaches Pro become a series on your channel!
This collalba are easily turning into my favorite climbing videos, it’s so cool
Louis Parkinson recently did a similar video comparing technique side by side. I feel really lucky to have such high quality climbing content and this style of video makes absorbing technique through a screen far more effective for me. Dave McCleod (#1 for climbing content imo) makes a good point that learning technique is less effective through a screen unless you are really actively trying to visualise and apply what you are seeing to your own movement patterns. As I said on Louis' video, movement quality is utterly fascinating to me. Thanks for another awesome video
That last exercise for the next movement lookeed like some real ninja stuff
That move and all the things behind it was amazing,
Great format and very helpful, things i work on a lot but excellent to reinforce with your breakdown and comparison
Those fingercurls are so good! And I see these tension difference with my wife all the time😂 Mobility & flexibility is so underrated in climbing, especially for men.
This is epic, more please! 🙏🤙
personally, I think the very best climbers are usually great at utilising each style, as and when required. sometimes the holds are too small to hold with cutting loose, other times they are just too far & you have to pop!
sick video, Emil!
It's really funny hearing Emil's Swenglish pronunciations on Swedish names. I get it, I do the same. It's just really funny when you hear people mispronouncing their own name
Would love to see a bit more split-screen side by side analysis, would really add to the visuals.
Loved the video!
Did the following video referenced at the end get removed? Wanted to go check that one out again but can't find it anymore
Hoopers beta analysis incoming for the finger curls? Would love to see it!
Really enjoyed that!
Extremely interesting video 👏
Seemed to me that for a lot of the movement on the last boulder you were really locking off the left arm more which makes moving the hips around and weighting the feet harder versus Matilda being relaxed in the hand straight arm setting up the hips then rotating deeper into the position and pulling with the back then finally bicep at the last moment
Also of course you’re physically larger and heavier and maybe less flexible but this move is way below your level you should be able to execute it in different ways.
I think there's a lot of truth to what you say here. It's strange though, something about forcing my body into a position like that just doesn't compute. Like you say, the move is "below" my level, but probably just from a "make-it-through" type of way. I think I would've done it fairly easy if I just exploded into the position by pulling on the crimp and double clutching the two gastons, but it's interesting just how much harder (more difficult) it becomes for me to force a more controlled method like Matilda's. Definitely something I want to explore more of in the future
great video, climbing is such a fun sport :D
You can always overcome some aspects of climbing by becoming more flexible or stronger, or fine-tuning technique, but people also need to understand that there are natural things that you cannot change that make climbing easier for some, harder for others. For example, some people are naturally more flexible, some people have naturally smaller fingers (skinny fingers are better for matching small holds, shorter pads can use a 10mm crimp much easier than someone with long finger pads). Also, differences in shin/femur length will determine if someone struggles with toe hooks or can use toe hooks easily. The list goes on...Like i said, individuals can overcome some of these things to an extent, but ultimately, these genetic differences are what determine our inherent strengths and our weaknesses. Also, this is why grading is inherently subjective in climbing.
I couldn’t figure out what the crux was of the black problem at the end. On video it looked like a ~6B to me, so I’m clearly missing something big. Is the second crimp that you bump up to (and sometimes cross over to) so much worse than it looks? At my gym these are 2 cm wide with great friction, but maybe these are more worn down? Or is the wall overhanging?
Flexibility, Strength to weight ratio, Hand size to hold ratio, Body size to hold spacing ratio, and then to lesser extents the tension, technique and power cause variance.
I respectfully disagree! From my perspective, every elite level climber I’ve met has had their strengths developed depending on their background. I’ve neglected this part of climbing for many years as it’s held little relevance to my preferred climbs, much like your average trad climber neglects big powerful moves.
I could agree that your point stands for beginner/intermediate climbers though, as there you haven’t been as moulded by your climbing environment yet.
I am pretty sure Emil climbs harder then both of us but I agree with your Statement completly. I quess your point is that physical attributes are more important then the „climbing environment“ (what is Emils point). Even though I think both is true, the fact that there is a certain bodytype that dominates climbing and bouldering at elite level kinda shows me that physical attributes are a main factor.
@@antons.7632 I do agree that physical attributes make up the most dominant factor to how good one can become as a climber. I would just argue that hand size and body size to hold to hold spacing are both incredibly much less relevant than power, technique and tension, unless we take it to the absolute extreme. The reason Tomoa can jump better than Ondra and Ondra climb harder routes than Tomoa isn't because of their difference in size/dimensions, it's because of how and from where they've developed as climbers over the years.
Don't get me wrong, genetics and body composition plays a MASSIVE role in any athletic performance, but it's definitely not the biggest. You can have the perfect genetic predisposition for climbing and still get stuck on the pink V2 in the corner.
@@antons.7632ut there isnt really. Best bodytype depends on style and style depends on your bodytype. E.g. Emil and Magnus are significantly bigger than most top climbers and they seem to prefer powerful climbing on slopers to so called "techniqual" slow moves on tiny crimps (quotation marks refering to them not being any more techniqual and not really requiring more moving skills than others imo)
UPD: also, Emil's point tends to stand anecdotally with Aidan Roberts being not that small and using specific upperbody strength and very specific fingerstrength for moving on small crimps
@@EmilAbrahamsson do you think that if u were smaller then the position would be easier to hold. ive found it harder for me to get into certain boxes because im taller. would be cool to see a video just on boxes and how climbers manipulate their size if that makes sense. ik that kai lightner works on small boxes a lot because hes tall and its hard for him. could be cool to see what moves are near impossible for short/tall people
After the first Boulder Matilda says the center of gravity is at the hips. I think thats correct for her and most woman. But because of eay smaller hips and compared to that very broad shoulders the center of gravity for man (that arent overweight) is more in the upper body i think.
Nice video ! Looks like you rode your bike to the gym that day!!
Am I right?
This is a bit off -topic, I hope you don't mind. I wanted to ask you regarding periodization and programming for weighted pull ups. I'm trying to get OAP, and as a prerequisite, a ~80%+ bodyweight orm pull up. I don't want to add too much fatigue so I can still focus on bouldering, but I'm unsure what sort of rep x set scheme and loading frequency to do... I am starting to do 5x5 rpe 8 1x a week, I'm not sure if that's enough/too much. I do it on rings. I got to this level of strength through just bouldering so I assume progression from focus will come fast. Any insight would be appreciated! Thanks for your videos.
🗽I like Mathilda! 👌
5:40 Mathilda has a much lower weight, so the drop knee would probably be the better (enrgy saving) option.
I'm interested in more of such technical lessons. 🙏
.
"I tend to avoid them, because they are slower" he says while climbing significantly slower than Mathilda
Slower for him, maybe?
nice!
what breed is the cute van doggie?
What is the weight difference between you and Matilda?
20-25kg ish I believe? Could be slightly more/less, neither of us have measured very recently
@@EmilAbrahamsson its like a chicken and egg question. Does the climbing style shape your physic or your physic shapes your climbing style? Can you have best of both?
Email @14:41 your interior hip flexion is waaaay less than Matilda's which causes your hips to be several inches further out (as I'm sure you noticed while editing this).
woox of climbing
How tall are you and Matilda?
The gravity board has got to be the worst thing I’ve seen lol
Haven't seen much about Cordelia in a long time. I wonder if they broke up or something.
Nonono Cordi’s often behind the camera!! Long story short she’s just been extremely busy with her master’s degree, so hasn’t really been fitting to have her in the videos. Usually there’s a bit of pressure to perform n stuff when filming, so in her free time it’s best to just chill, climb and hang together
That’s just how short people climb.
Please marry her
First
Welcome!
they’re most def dating I’m convinced
Nah mate, we’re both happily together with our respective others. My girlfriend Cordi is often behind the camera, and Matilda’s partner helped film this episode
@@EmilAbrahamsson oh didn’t know but glad to hear!
Excellent video but one of those videos that leaves me thinking I understand climbing even less 🫡