TOP 10 HIDDEN GEMS IN YOUR TRACTOR MANUAL! 👨🌾🚜👩🌾
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2020
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Check out the Top 10 hidden pieces of useful information buried inside your tractor owner's manual.
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You always come up with great point about which you make your videos. Lots for common sense that I have never even thought about. I not afraid to learn or admit that I don't know something. I have learned a lot about John Deere tractors(I just inherited 3) and had already read the manuals last Winter. Learned a lot more watching your videos these past 30 days! Good stuff!
Loading from a pile. It's not really a top or bottom issue, it is a fill up your bucket issue. Go into the pile where once you get in 4" or so you can start curling and lifting the bucket while creeping forward. Now you are peeling off (which is a lot easier than digging) a layer and if you've started into the pile at the right point, you'll have a full bucket close to the top of the pile and you will have filled up the bucket using gravity (the loose material will fall into the bucket as you peel and lift). And you won't have wasted a lot of power lifting material above the bucket that is just going to fall off around the bucket. Keep entering the pile at different levels and in different directions, always peeling and filling--not lifting what won't go in the bucket. Back drag the top of the pile toward you when you need to consolidate the pile. Keep at it until you are done. Quicker, easier, less power used, less mess. Watch a pro (and note that many commercial operators are not pros).
Great video Courtney - I'm one of those nuts who reads the manual from cover to cover when I get a new machine/tool (I don't retain much of it but it helps me to know where to look for it later on when I need it) - Just call me OCD....lol
Haha, yes OCD is the appropriate term! 😂
Good advice on your videos thanks.
I use to hall tractors for a living I have painted at line on the centre of my float and I thought it was easier back on and I could see the drawbar follow that line right on my trailer that way I wasn't worried about watching the rear tires and I could just take a peek at the front wheels
Two things . First my factor wheels on my Kubota L4701 with r-4 tires I have 4 or 5 Different widths I can set them at. Second when scooping from a pile once the pile gets small say 3 buckets or less of material. When you push into the pile from the bottom you push the whole pile and don't get a full bucket. If you take the top of the pile and back drag to the front it makes the pile shorter but longer giving you more material to push up against filling the buck more. So your not pushing into the top of the pile you drag material off the top. That's the best I can explain it works great dirt stone or sand.
Great info on how to find good stuff in owner’s manuals. You’re videos are always full of good info. Looking forward as new video topics come out.
Thanks for watching!
Your Saturday morning videos are FAR better than reading the back of the cereal box! Was late getting here today because I was out doing team work . . . yes, I was messaged for placing a link to your last video on a 1025R fan site. They were looking for the latest information on wheel extensions and I just happened to know a place. They thanked me for putting it up :)
Those manuals are chock full of ideas, some that a person would never think about. Great video, Rosie looks to be moving around much better.....
I always drive on to the trailer and back it off. Thank you for the video!!
The old JD 70 and 90 series compact tractors (gear transmissions) used to come with a “U” shaped metal piece with the owners manual. For years I didn’t know what it was for... until I read thru the manual. It was a tool to lock the clutch pedal down when in storage for long periods of time. This kept the clutch disc from rusting and sticking to the flywheel.
Well I’ll be...how little I have read my manuals. Thanks for sharing, and there’s some interesting stuff I didn’t know, and would not of thought about. Also, gotta love the Lube Shuttle. So glad I finally got one. Used to be when the cartridge was empty, you silently mutter that you have to go thru the process...but with Lube Shuttle...no biggie, no mess, no priming. Gotta love it.
I usually pull the top if the dirt pile back to loosen the soil and make it easy to pick up. Stone doesn’t matter.
It brought back a memory when you were talking about tractors tipping backwards. When I was about 14 I was out plowing a field with an Oliver 1755 and I think it was a 7 bottom plow. Anyways, there was a kind of soft area in the field and everytime I went through the plow would go deeper and pull the front end of the tractor off the ground and I would have to steer using the brakes. The first time it happened, kinda startled me a little. But after it happened a couple times I couldn't wait until I came back around.
Appreciate the time you took pointing out those non-obvious points about the tractors. Great info.
when using my loader on my 1025r i always pull the dirt from top or as high as i can depending on how far into the pile i can get by pulling the dirt back so i can fill the bucket and use the pile as a wall to easily fill and keep the dirt in the bucket. when the pile gets small you have to use the loader controls to push and curl so you dont leave the dirt on the ground. its all about ease and getting the bucket nice and full. i have about 500 hours of dirt work with my loader and backhoe.
Thanks for sharing! Good information as always! The manual has a lot of information, hard to digest it the first time I've read it. Refer back to it often!
I refer to the manuals often. I inherited Dad's 3 John Deere tractors. He also kept extensive maintenance records for everything on the place. He had also been a mechanic.
One of the best ROPS warnings in my manual was the crush hazard when lowering it. I needed to lower mine to clear an eave and tv cable and, having read that warning was not between the ROPS and rear of tractor. When the ROPS finally moved, it fell like a rock! Anyone back there would have been smashed. I have since found a different place to store the tractor, as getting the ROPS back up was no easy task either.
Reading the manual is really a worthwhile effort, even though there is a lot of confusing info, Like if you do the 100 hour breakin service wouldn't the next sevice that is now 200 hour intervals actually occur at 300?
Tractoring is definitely a "work in progress".
I can almost guarantee that even reading the owner's manual for a newer car or truck that everyone will learn about some feature that they weren't aware of.
You did us a great service with this video so we don’t have to read the manuals. 🤣😂
🤣👍
TY, sir.
Thank you I always enjoy your videos
Tractors the PTO is more direct drive you got to engage it at a lower RPM because you're turning heavier equipment and you don't want to shock load your PTO driveline. I believe the lawn version is more like a clutch and it keeps you from throwing a belt or anything else all mowers seem to say engage at full throttle.
Ok so my life must be boring.
I absolutely love to read the manuals for my equipment... the first time I need to work on it myself.
Always back blade the pile, much easier to pick up when you do that, as far as a back stop you get that naturally when you back blade.
We have PTO drive on the pumps on our fire truck. I'm told the rpm has to be down when engaging the pumps as the torque from the motor and the resistance from the pump will shear the drive shafts if you don't. Tractor might be the same. With a brush hog on the back you have a fair mass of moving parts you're trying to spin up to speed, so probably best not to be at full noise straight off the bat.
With the tractors, its probably the difference between a direct drive from the engine and some form of hydraulic drive system.
You could be on to something there Spooky
Great video. My 1025r manual says before starting anytime “Set hand throttle lever (C) to the 1/2-3/4 fast position”. So I assume once it’s starts you then lower throttle before engaging PTO and then rev up engine. Also cold weather start manual says let machine warmup for 5 minutes before using.
I think part of the reason to haul tractor backwards is for cab tractors so the doors won't open while moving, just in case the latch isn't tight. I have found chain lube works better than grease for quick attach arms, doesn't hold dirt like grease does,
Thank you, Some of those are pretty funny or odd. I can't imagine always loading a tractor backward. I have done it 1 time and it was....concerning.
Love the videos, and content. Always watch and dont even own a JD. Iol. Always learn something new. I also subscribe to some channels featuring Kubota but your content is unique. It just not digging dirt.
Well I appreciate that sir!
Adding to my last comment, if you are filling the bucket by peeling off a layer, you won't push the top of the pile off either.
My manual taught me my backhoe's boom has a float function. Great when grubbing out blackberry roots. Who knew?
Loading tractor rear first:
The reason that they want you to load the tractor by backing on is that on a single axle trailer you have to worry about tongue weight. You don’t want to much weight on the back of the vehicle, it can make for a wild ride. On two or more axles it is not so much of a problem.
Back dragging:
The reason that you don’t want to put the bucket in full unload position is that you can break the bucket cylinder(s), there are videos on replacing cylinder on Kubota that was broken in such a manor. If you look at Industrial loaders you see that they have one large cylinder that is mounted so that it is in the retracted position when back dragging, so they don’t break when back dragging. Check out pricing to replace these for your tractor you will find them very expensive.
Tip:
If you have a bucket level indicator on you machine, you can place it at the 40 deg position and paint the indicator so you can see that position. If you want different position use different colors.
Loading from a pile:
The reason that they want you to load from the middle of the pile is so that you don’t put too much of a load on the drive train. You may want to do this on a pile that is at eye level when sitting on the tractor or higher.
Removing stuck equipment with steel cable/tow strap:
Please place a blanket on a steel cable/tow strap on both ends, as this will slow down cable if it snaps!!
The life you save maybe your own.
Thanks!!
Awesome tip of blanket on cable!
@@stevek4449 Just remember to take a blanket
Didn't think about the weight distribution on a single axle trailer. Thanks.
Remember, these manuals are written by engineers and reviewed by corporate attorneys.
When loading on a trailer you can easily adjust tongue with positioning. I suspect the reasoning is that the hood latches may not be designed to withstand high speed & unlike automotive latches aren't a "double latch" system. If loading forward on an open trailer, probably not a bad idea to have some type of supplemental hood restraint (bungee cord, etc.). Would be interesting to see if the recommendation differs for tractors where the hood open from the front or back which would confirm my suspicion.
Tim had an incident recently where even below the recommended speed (according to him IIRC:)) his canopy was damaged. Lots of stories out there of hauling incomplete cars & having the back glass blow out. Happened to me once.
At least with my tractor trailer combination, the tractor will be driven on and backed off. Backing it on put far too much weight forward of the tires and creates a tongue heavy load. Driving on puts the majority of the weight over the two axles, giving a lower center of gravity and an easier pull.
The manufacturer of my canopy recommends backing the tractor onto the trailer because at interstate speeds the air could rip off the canopy, if the tractor is faced forward, as there is no mechanical support at the front of the canopy.
Don't know how I ever made it off the farm alive as a kid. I pulled and yanked at everything imaginable the wrong way. Stuck or not. I'm serious here, I feel very fortunate nothing tragic ever happened to me. No safety training as a youngster, just dumb luck I suppose. Great video here, thanks.
I know of at least one death when working around a really large pile of sawdust. The operator took all of the material away from the base first, leaving a silo of compacted material. When he rammed into it to break it up, it toppled over and smothered him. Loose dirt and coal can do the same thing, but we are talking hundreds, not dozens of cubic yards of material to tower over the tractor. Something most homeowners would never see, but common in commercial operations.
Have you heard of MerleFest here in NC? Doc Watson's son Merle was killed trying to break a stuck tractor loose. If you rev it and pop the clutch in reverse, it actually has enough power to not just lift, but rotate the front end up, over and around the stuck rear axle, trapping the operator. Another case where a ROPS and seat belt would have helped.
A couple of things:
1. The backing onto the trailer might be in reference to possible turbo damage (if equipped) from the wind speed driving down the road. The exhaust pipe on these tractors tends to be pointed forward, same thing if you have a vertical stack. You can cover up the pipe to prevent the air entering the pipe and ultimately spinning the turbo which is bad.
2. Every heavy equipment manual I’ve read includes the part about scooping from the top of the pile. The idea is that you could somehow someway collapse a pile of material on top of yourself if your scooping from the bottom. You brought up good counter points to the argument and frankly I think you have to be working from an incredibly large pile to do it but hey I guess it’s a possibility.
Sometimes it is handy to raise your loader and dump you bucket to scrape material off the top and bring it down to the bottom by lowering your loader arms and then scoop that material up like you normally would, entering the bottom of the pile.
The word pull means tilting your bucket down and scraping off the top of the pile and letting it drop to the ground which lets it loosen up and then go in from ground level and scoop up the loose material. It’s much easier and not as hard on your equipment. Ps like your videos
If you pull off the top of piles then you don’t have the weight and compaction of material. I will back drag the top off if the pile has been sitting for a while. That is just my thoughts on it.
The loading out with a front bucket and digging near the top not the greatest plan. Especially machines with the pivot pin for the axle is in the front. IE Tractors or Loader Backhoes. Wheel loaders pivot on the rear axle and are way more stable. If the pile is higher than the actual machine be careful back blade material from a comfortable height and draw material from lower positions. The avalanche effect if your plowing into it especially higher positions and the weight exceeds your ballast just made it a catapult at a bad angle from the front axle pivot. Just my two pennies. The video was fun and informative thaank you for taking the time. Have a great day!
Well thanks alot Courtney for reading the manual for us lolol... now I gotta go and turn my front tires around backwards, and order that new grease gun since I grease every fuel tank. I'm not going to drive up the trailer backwards either!!! Only reason I can think of as to scoop off the top of a pile first, is if the material is hard, packed, or very heavy. OK...gotta say this, seems like the 2025R is the baster child of the
JD compacts, but that's alright it works great for me. Say ya want to trade forks for mower deck? Cool video and Rosie looks to be limping around yet.
Haha, I had nothing better to do! 😂 I've almost sold that mower deck like three times, but just hasn't worked out. If you wanna trade it in to get it off your books, no problemo. We'll sort it out! Yeah, Rosie is going to the doc in a few days. You can hear a "pop" in her leg when she's walking. Thinking ligament/tendon issue going on. Probably overcompensating for her limp when she had the Lyme's flare up.
I really think it’s how you interpret the manual. You looked at the manual and read.... “pulling the material from the top of the pile”. I do start at the top of the pile by back dragging and “PULLING” the material to the bottom, thus also making the material loose and ready to scoop from the bottom with a level bucket. This also depends on the condition of the material in that pile.
I always pull from the bottom with the bucket level.
Oh! What about securing cab doors when trailering so they don’t fly open? Did you do a video on that? Or just back tractor onto trailer?
Regardless of Manuel I engage PTO at the Lowest rpm that won't stall the tractor. I really don't like those push button PTO switches I prefer old fashion let the clutch out!
I have an X738, I always speed the engine up before engaging the deck. My neighbor, who has a large JD gas garden tractor, always told me to engage deck while engine was at idle. He still did not believe me after I showed him my manual.
Backing on or pulling forward onto a trailer. I hate backing the tractor onto a trailer but I paid the price for pulling it on forward. I was going down the highway with my tractor on the trailer and the hood flew up and acted like a sail and the hinge pulled right out of the control panel of which is made of plastic. After reading a bunch of forums, I found this is a common issue. I now use a tie down can secure the hood before going down the highway.
If the pile is of somewhat compressed dirt, say 5 feet tall, then it is way harder to drive into the pile at the bottom level versus the top. In this case, working the pile top to bottom puts less stress on the loader.
My gems were RPMS for PTO when at 540-750-1,000 rpms as well as maximum towing weight of trailer being 13,000 pounds.
13:30 bent loader frame is the difference.
I think when loading material you are only thinking about the triangle shaped piles of dirt or gravel. But removing from the top would apply to something like a stack of bales or if you ar loading silage. I've had silage piled higher than the loader can reach and have had the top part of the pile come tumbling down on top of me and the tractor.
You are right Lee! The problem is the manual. In my manual it shows a pile of gravel and taking it from the top. They should have your example instead! 👍🙂
In the Mahindra 5555 / 5570 manual the picture of where to add engine oil shows the top of the radiator with the cap off.
I laughed my ass off when I found that one. :-)
Have you done or will do a video showing how to mount a 7 pin trailer harness on the back of a 3 or 4 series?
I always back blade from the top. Depending on what the material is that's piled up,determines how much I need to pull down,and then go about doing what I need to do. I have a small 1025R,so don't get real aggressive. Just take your time,you'll finish what you're doing without hurting the machine,or yourself. NOW,if the pile is about as tall as Mt.Everest,just take from the bottom and gravity will be your friend.
Possible video idea since you have a few 4 series sitting around.... checking/adjusting toe-in on a John Deere. 4 series > Section 14 in manual.
That had crossed my mind :)
I believe that the manual wants the tractor to be driven forward onto a trailer so the hood opens from the rear to the front of the trailer. This way the wind won’t lift the hood open going down the highway. Was there a picture?
Exactly what I was thinking (and posted in a reply above). Compare the manuals for a front & rear opening hood & I suspect the recommendation is reversed.
@@BobsOutdoorActivities I meant driven on backwards above so that a front opening hood isn't caught by the wind.
Bottom of the pile all day every day,! Top of the pile can be dangerous if the material is very heavy like wet base. Lifting that bucket very high is a big no no in my personal manual, probably my #1 hidden 💎 in it. 😁
Excellent point sir!
I believe it depends on the material being moved. For compact material such as dirt that the bucket has a difficult time engaging, I will actually back drag starting from high then scoop up what was loosened up. The buckets will fill up a lot easier without having to keep spinning tires into the pile.
Could be and that does make sense! Thanks for chiming in!
With my tooth bar on my bucket there is no material that is hard to dig into from the bottom, even crusty base or crushed granite. That tooth bar from Heavy Hitch is a pile breaker. 👍🙂
Back it on if it has a cab. That way the doors would not have a chance of ripping off if some how they open. On a open cab, I guess it is possible that wind could open the hood.
I have a question, do they make cylinders safety stops for a 1025 loader lift cylinders?
I have to back my 1025r on my trailer. It's only because it scrapes the ground when going forward. It's the backhoe that's that scrapes. I even have to raise the backhoe up because it hits my trailer when backing up. But it because of my trailer. I've got used to it and like backing on then forwards. I can us the bucket to keep it from falling if needed. Can't do that when driving up or down ramps.
The Lube shuttle is the only way to go.
I have always loaded my tractor up onto my trailer by driving it on forwards & never backwards.
i have scooped up from a dirt an/or gravel pile from a downward bottom position as well as scooped up from the top. To me, it all depends on the situation of what is going on, & how heavy the dirt/gravel pile is from the bottom side. i have done both ways & has never caused any problems. stay safe & remember. . . . . ."TRACTOR THEROPY"!!!
Those 4720's with mmm, when was that an option or was that an aftermarket addition to the 4 series. Gosh had I known a mmm was a 4 series option I'd gone that route?
I reach over the pile and pull it back to me than scoop it up from the bottom.
Dude's roll with dulleys.
Love me some duallies
Bottom.
Do they make a battery powered grease gun.
Yes, they sure do!
The Ryobi one from Home Depot has been great for me . Reasonably priced also .
Curiosity, The manual says 6 years or 6000 hours for coolant change. I would tend to think, if it's a closed system how are the properties changed on a low hours but 8 to 10 year old tractor motor?
Electrolysis takes place over time and can cause corrosion which of course is not desirable. I think Neil at Messicks has a video on measuring coolant with a volt meter. Found the link.
th-cam.com/video/rz9zbKtyZ8g/w-d-xo.html
No idea, haha. Maybe someone here will know?
In my opinion, I believe the chemicals in the coolant degrade over time and become less capable of protecting your equipment be it coolant, engine oil, transmission/hydraulic oil, grease, etc.
Rubber hoses are not air or water "proof" there is VERY slow diffusion to equalize concentrations. So over time the corrosion inhibitors get consumed. Open systems are worse- think old cars.
I thought you sold your 4066r??? Is that a different one?
Yeah, just bought another almost identical 🤣
BALLAST REQUIREMENTS! There's so many people out there not ballasting their tractors. I cringed hard yesterday when I came across a 1025R review video and the guy was using the loader to move gravel without ballast. He even said something like "you really can't fill up the buck and you gotta keep it low or it gets squirrely." Yeah because you're missing about 800 pounds on the back!
Now that's funny! 😂👍
Is the dog ok? Looks like they are limping?
Uno !
👏🏆🙌🤩🎉👨🌾🚜👩🌾👍