This video is about the method used to water jet new (Concrete, Wood, PVC) Dock piling for fresh or salt water pilings using submersible pump, garden hose and a PVC pipe
Nice work! I did something similar building a pier. I used 6"PVC without a plug. I jetted water on inside of the pipe which left a tighter fit and also mushroomed out the soil at the bottom of the pipe, allowing the concrete to form sort of a footing at the bottom. I left the PCV in and filled with rebar and concrete. So the result was a PVC wrapped concrete pile. One thing I later learned about piles is that in many areas the upward or downward strength is driver by skin friction. Next time, I will drill holes in the PVC so that just a little concrete comes out under the ground. Thanks for sharing the video.
Yes, you are correct. Actually, I did start another video which estimates the load capacity of the pile due to the skin friction. I never completed the video because I found that I would be presenting a lot of math. As for the idea of cutting the holes in the pipe to allow the concrete to pour is very good. If the holes are big enough and strategically placed you may have discovered a new way for creating piles. Only extensive tests will reveal your concepts benefits. Good luck in your efforts. Please send me pictures of your project, I can even add you in a video if you wish
@@myeasyfixx1205 I’m a 66 year old, almost retired lumber salesman. Been one for 40+ years. My three younger brothers and nephew own a 150’x150’ plot of marsh in the Barataria Basin bout 25 miles south of New Orleans. It’s hard getting a piece of land down there cause the rich and government entities all want to hog it for themselves. Anyways, we had a fishing camp there that was built in 1947 when the marsh it was sitting on was the edge of a cypress swamp. Now that swamp is long gone with the live oaks and freshwater habitat. Don’t get me wrong, cause you can limit out on Speckled Trout and Red and Black Drum, along with Blue Crab and White and Brown Shrimp, but with the freshwater, the land started to disappear from the saltwater intrusion. Now, we have to build 12’ above high tide to avoid getting slammed by hurricane storm surge and that’s just a Cat 3 and we’re 40 miles north of the coast. Your video will allow us to rebuild in a practical fashion and I want to thank you from myself and my brothers!! Hurricane Ida took our old girl from us and it’s taken us this long to gather up the gambling attitude to try it again.
I used to live on a river and restored slow over the years my seawall and retaining walls... starting with piles that I hammered in and working up. I thought the tripod or diamond style piers were impressive... though down river others told me they used this type method. Neat was I wound up re-purposing an upstream salvaged washed out dock for form and temporary embankment materials. Recently I've wondered about using PVC pipe cut in half with a hinge and clasps or racket straps to make a form though for re-enforced concrete work... though maybe that would apply to these designs also with less fiberglass mess and cleanup work. Thanks for sharing!
I am sure that pressure washer would work. Possibly better than a simple sump pump. I bought the sump ($ 80) pump and used an old garden hose. I wanted something simple If you use the pressure washer from above, without the bottom plug, you loose the benefit of filling the the pvc with concrete. Maybe I did not understand what you are saying
The disadvantages 1. The PVC pipe may be expensive, depending on the size. 2. It will be heavy. 3. dont use hinges. When you are in the water, how will you open the pipe. 3. Probably the biggest problem with the pVC pipe is that the PVC is not flexible, unless you select a very thin PVC pipe. I am not sure if a flexible PVC pipie exist in the larger diameter. The PVC pipe must bend, be flexible so you can remove the form from the poured concrete. Take a look at my video on making a fiberglass form. In that video I stress use 2 layers, but no more than 3 layers of fiberglass else you cant bend it off the concrete pile.
@@myeasyfixx1205 Thanks! I forget how the larger size PVC is amazingly heavy and even equivalent schedules... thicker if I recall correct unless maybe they make a thinner schedule I've never seen. I know up to 6" PVC there is the thinner lighter more flexible Sewer and Drain Pipe ASTM D2729. Haven't seen in larger diameters... though if is made, my guess is more flexible and easier to make a form with. Thanks for the reminder as I recall Schedule 40 10" is heavy and thick walled. Not easy to handle alone without a doubt. I have seen the 10" PVC though used for above ground decorative columns in a Gazebo design online now that I think about some more. lacasadelwacho.com/photo3.html I'll read into and watch the fiberglass form video. Thank you sir!
Sorry, I misread the comments icon. The smaller the diameter of PVC pipe the less flexibe it will be. From a production perspective the manufacturer has to make a pipe for a specific pressure rating. Therefor, to achieve the design rating, larger pipes have to have thicker wall thickness. Not just for internal pressure but also setting the pipe. A thin large diameter pipe would need many more pipe supports to satisfy deformation codes.
The Cardboard form didn't deteriorate away in the water before the concrete set? Seems like the cardboard forms would deteriorate well before the concrete got set up.
If you have the cardboard more than one day in the water, it starts to fall apart. But when using cardboard we would immediately add the concrete. Cardboard tubes are about $ 75 per 10 ft of tube. That is why we started making a few fiberglass forms
The PVC is filled with concrete inside and outside. Unfortunately the PVC is expensive otherwise it would be the way to go. It is easy to handle and sinks right into the sand. The PVC pipe I used was extra from another job
Currently, my schedule will allow a new video on using scaffolding for the dock, at the end of July. Sorry for the delay,but I am currently tied up in a Japanese world war 2 video.
You don't reach a stable foundation. The loading of the pile is based on 2 different resistance parameters. The first is the bottom surface area. This friction factor is very high, but the area is very small (area of the pile diameter). The area of the pile perimeter is very large (Pi X Dia X lenth embedded in the sand) times the side fiction factor. When you add both loads you get the maximum load the pile can carry.
I never experience cold environments where the river freezes. If there are cracks in the concrete, then maybe the frozen water may crack the concrete. My recommendation is to keep the form on for at least 1 week of curing. Check with your local concrete contractors. Thank you for the comment and good luck with endeavor.
@@myeasyfixx1205 So is there a general rule of thumb where you find if you go X ft deep then generally speaking you're fine? That was my concern too was if water created the hole, it'll just wash out around the pile
These pilings have no steel reinforcing bars inside them? A typhoon (I guess it's our version of your hurricane) just wiped out my dock. I need to figure out how to rebuild it to last until I retire. :)
Yes Taj, there is no steel reinforcement in the pilings. I could have easily installed steel. The damage I got was mostly biological action on the wood pile and during hurricanes the uplift of the decking lifted it off and it floated away, while the good piles remained in place.
@@myeasyfixx1205 Thank you for the clarification. I'm based in the tropics on a small island (poor country) where everything is done with mostly wartime (WW2) methodologies. So watching your video with my guys was like the Dawn of Man Ape Scene from 2001: Space Odyssey. Hahahah. No seriously. Had to pick up a few jaws off the ground there--including mine. Since I am a stupid monkey, lemme ask: how would you include steel rebar in your build? Simply insert pre-tied rebar during the pour? Also, nobody here knows what kind of pump you used. The submersible pumps I see here are meant to be used to pull fresh water out of the ground. The pumps we have on hand are centrifugal pumps we use to irrigate our fields. Can we use that? How much pressure / flow rate am I looking for? Sorry for all the questions. Will send bananas. And coconuts.
@@tom.mattausch Thanks for the response. We rebuilt it as a temporary pier for now while I figure out how to build something to last. I've looked into glass fiber reinforced concrete. Looks doable.
The plug was was just concrete at the end of thePVC pipe. A cap would also work, but I didn't have a cap. The PVC pipe was extra piping from another job. I wood have water jetted a wood pile if the PVC piping was not available.
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Nice work! I did something similar building a pier. I used 6"PVC without a plug. I jetted water on inside of the pipe which left a tighter fit and also mushroomed out the soil at the bottom of the pipe, allowing the concrete to form sort of a footing at the bottom. I left the PCV in and filled with rebar and concrete. So the result was a PVC wrapped concrete pile. One thing I later learned about piles is that in many areas the upward or downward strength is driver by skin friction. Next time, I will drill holes in the PVC so that just a little concrete comes out under the ground. Thanks for sharing the video.
Yes, you are correct. Actually, I did start another video which estimates the load capacity of the pile due to the skin friction. I never completed the video because I found that I would be presenting a lot of math.
As for the idea of cutting the holes in the pipe to allow the concrete to pour is very good. If the holes are big enough and strategically placed you may have discovered a new way for creating piles. Only extensive tests will reveal your concepts benefits. Good luck in your efforts. Please send me pictures of your project, I can even add you in a video if you wish
Excellent video and presentation fella!
Thank you kindly!
@@myeasyfixx1205 I’m a 66 year old, almost retired lumber salesman. Been one for 40+ years. My three younger brothers and nephew own a 150’x150’ plot of marsh in the Barataria Basin bout 25 miles south of New Orleans. It’s hard getting a piece of land down there cause the rich and government entities all want to hog it for themselves. Anyways, we had a fishing camp there that was built in 1947 when the marsh it was sitting on was the edge of a cypress swamp. Now that swamp is long gone with the live oaks and freshwater habitat. Don’t get me wrong, cause you can limit out on Speckled Trout and Red and Black Drum, along with Blue Crab and White and Brown Shrimp, but with the freshwater, the land started to disappear from the saltwater intrusion. Now, we have to build 12’ above high tide to avoid getting slammed by hurricane storm surge and that’s just a Cat 3 and we’re 40 miles north of the coast. Your video will allow us to rebuild in a practical fashion and I want to thank you from myself and my brothers!! Hurricane Ida took our old girl from us and it’s taken us this long to gather up the gambling attitude to try it again.
I used to live on a river and restored slow over the years my seawall and retaining walls... starting with piles that I hammered in and working up. I thought the tripod or diamond style piers were impressive... though down river others told me they used this type method. Neat was I wound up re-purposing an upstream salvaged washed out dock for form and temporary embankment materials. Recently I've wondered about using PVC pipe cut in half with a hinge and clasps or racket straps to make a form though for re-enforced concrete work... though maybe that would apply to these designs also with less fiberglass mess and cleanup work. Thanks for sharing!
Wondering if you can use a pressure washer or other pump with a cap on top of the PVC driven pile pipe to make the driving fast and more from above?
I am sure that pressure washer would work. Possibly better than a simple sump pump. I bought the sump ($ 80) pump and used an old garden hose. I wanted something simple
If you use the pressure washer from above, without the bottom plug, you loose the benefit of filling the the pvc with concrete. Maybe I did not understand what you are saying
The disadvantages 1. The PVC pipe may be expensive, depending on the size. 2. It will be heavy. 3. dont use hinges. When you are in the water, how will you open the pipe. 3. Probably the biggest problem with the pVC pipe is that the PVC is not flexible, unless you select a very thin PVC pipe. I am not sure if a flexible PVC pipie exist in the larger diameter. The PVC pipe must bend, be flexible so you can remove the form from the poured concrete. Take a look at my video on making a fiberglass form. In that video I stress use 2 layers, but no more than 3 layers of fiberglass else you cant bend it off the concrete pile.
@@myeasyfixx1205 Thanks! I forget how the larger size PVC is amazingly heavy and even equivalent schedules... thicker if I recall correct unless maybe they make a thinner schedule I've never seen. I know up to 6" PVC there is the thinner lighter more flexible Sewer and Drain Pipe ASTM D2729. Haven't seen in larger diameters... though if is made, my guess is more flexible and easier to make a form with. Thanks for the reminder as I recall Schedule 40 10" is heavy and thick walled. Not easy to handle alone without a doubt. I have seen the 10" PVC though used for above ground decorative columns in a Gazebo design online now that I think about some more. lacasadelwacho.com/photo3.html I'll read into and watch the fiberglass form video. Thank you sir!
Sorry, I misread the comments icon. The smaller the diameter of PVC pipe the less flexibe it will be. From a production perspective the manufacturer has to make a pipe for a specific pressure rating. Therefor, to achieve the design rating, larger pipes have to have thicker wall thickness. Not just for internal pressure but also setting the pipe. A thin large diameter pipe would need many more pipe supports to satisfy deformation codes.
Good work
Thank you so much 😀
The Cardboard form didn't deteriorate away in the water before the concrete set? Seems like the cardboard forms would deteriorate well before the concrete got set up.
If you have the cardboard more than one day in the water, it starts to fall apart. But when using cardboard we would immediately add the concrete. Cardboard tubes are about $ 75 per 10 ft of tube. That is why we started making a few fiberglass forms
Please tell us if the PVC pipe is part of the pour or permanent part of cast in place?
The PVC is filled with concrete inside and outside. Unfortunately the PVC is expensive otherwise it would be the way to go. It is easy to handle and sinks right into the sand. The PVC pipe I used was extra from another job
Excellent
Are you working on your dock? thank for your comment
Can you post another video explaining how the dock would be made?
Also what the form looks like
Yes, I appreciate your comment and I will, do another video showing more details.
Currently, my schedule will allow a new video on using scaffolding for the dock, at the end of July. Sorry for the delay,but I am currently tied up in a Japanese world war 2 video.
How will you know that you have reached stable foundation during the process of water jet the pvc pipe?
You don't reach a stable foundation. The loading of the pile is based on 2 different resistance parameters. The first is the bottom surface area. This friction factor is very high, but the area is very small (area of the pile diameter). The area of the pile perimeter is very large (Pi X Dia X lenth embedded in the sand) times the side fiction factor. When you add both loads you get the maximum load the pile can carry.
@@myeasyfixx1205 thanks very detail answer
Excellent information and explanation.
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Hello there.
We are thinking of doing this at our lake house in Michigan. How well does this hold up to ice and frozen lake?
I never experience cold environments where the river freezes. If there are cracks in the concrete, then maybe the frozen water may crack the concrete. My recommendation is to keep the form on for at least 1 week of curing. Check with your local concrete contractors. Thank you for the comment and good luck with endeavor.
How do you determine the necessary depth of the pipe into the "sea floor?"
I try to get it to the bottom sea bed. Sometimes the current scours out below the mold.
@@myeasyfixx1205 So is there a general rule of thumb where you find if you go X ft deep then generally speaking you're fine? That was my concern too was if water created the hole, it'll just wash out around the pile
These pilings have no steel reinforcing bars inside them? A typhoon (I guess it's our version of your hurricane) just wiped out my dock. I need to figure out how to rebuild it to last until I retire. :)
Yes Taj, there is no steel reinforcement in the pilings. I could have easily installed steel. The damage I got was mostly biological action on the wood pile and during hurricanes the uplift of the decking lifted it off and it floated away, while the good piles remained in place.
@@myeasyfixx1205 Thank you for the clarification. I'm based in the tropics on a small island (poor country) where everything is done with mostly wartime (WW2) methodologies. So watching your video with my guys was like the Dawn of Man Ape Scene from 2001: Space Odyssey. Hahahah. No seriously. Had to pick up a few jaws off the ground there--including mine. Since I am a stupid monkey, lemme ask: how would you include steel rebar in your build? Simply insert pre-tied rebar during the pour? Also, nobody here knows what kind of pump you used. The submersible pumps I see here are meant to be used to pull fresh water out of the ground. The pumps we have on hand are centrifugal pumps we use to irrigate our fields. Can we use that? How much pressure / flow rate am I looking for? Sorry for all the questions. Will send bananas. And coconuts.
@@TajDeluria If you can get some glass fiber that is designed to go in the concrete mix, that adds a lot of strength much more easily
@@tom.mattausch Thanks for the response. We rebuilt it as a temporary pier for now while I figure out how to build something to last. I've looked into glass fiber reinforced concrete. Looks doable.
ok,is the 8" plug is it a glue on cap,,guess i missed something
The plug was was just concrete at the end of thePVC pipe. A cap would also work, but I didn't have a cap. The PVC pipe was extra piping from another job. I wood have water jetted a wood pile if the PVC piping was not available.
My seabed is a little more rocky than Sandy how do you deal with that?
Also I am trying to use the PVC as piling for a floating doc
I am not sure, depends on the size of thw rocks and the water pressure you have at your tip.
PVC is smooth, that may help the pile to sink.
@@myeasyfixx1205 it would be 2500 psi
How do you get the pvc pipe back out of the sand?
You never get the pvc pipe out. It will be full of concrete. Only the thr fiberglass form is recovered for another use
@@myeasyfixx1205 thank you. You answered my recovery question.