I heard this was extremely difficult. After watching you. It's pretty easy. My guage is still okay. If it ever goes, I'll have no problem swapping it out. Thanks chris.
I had to do this on my old 2002 C5, what a bit-h. I ended up taking the manifold off and that made the job much easier for me. Great video Chris. Really like your how to vids.
I did this my first time about 8 years ago, but then I did it again last summer and I used the relocation kit so it is now on top and I will never have to do it the hard way again. Both times I removed the intake maniold.
Pretty impressive to get your hand down there Chris. I could not with my gorilla like hands. It only takes about 20 mins to pop off the intake. It's a good time to clean things up and replace those gaskets, if anyone is tackling this job.
I know this is an old video, but I had read about a fairly easy way which is to remove the panel under the windshield wipers, use a dremel to edge out about a 3x6 inch portion of the underlying plastic directly above the oil sensor. You then have access straight down to remove/replace the sensor, replace the plastic section that was removed and duct tape in down, put the wiper portion back on (you then cannot see the taped area) and you are done! Really was quite easy.
@@johnphillipsjr7238It's a car, not a precious gemstone. But, I'm sure it will be difficult to sleep at night knowing your 1 of 1 Corvette has been sullied. 😂😂😂
Thanks for ALL your videos, Chris! Suggest blowing or vacuuming debris from around the injectors befoer starting this project, and possibly after removing the electrical connectors from the injectors. It may be helpful to mention that the injectors stay on the fuel rail. Silicone lube on the injector o-rings before reinstalling them.
Good video. I’ve been debating my method of attack. I’ve decided to remove the manifold, my car has some miles, so I think that replacing the gaskets and cleaning will be the best route for my rig. Cheers!
@@mycorvettelifeNot an issue for some people. Holes are cut in cars all the time when doing modifications, for example. I did mine and the car runs and drives as it always has....and I can't even sleep at night knowing I did it.😂😂😂 Thanks for posting another option to changing it without having to remove the manifold.
I just did this using your method. Wasn't horrible, but the extra 20 minutes to pull the intake manifold is the only way to go. Would have been much easier and pulling the mani is a snap if you have done it a couple times before.
Informative video as usual Chris. Maybe you could invest in some kind of wireless microphone to clip on your shirt so your loyal subscribers don't lose so much volume when you're reaching for those tough to get spots.
Great video...I know you stated you can free up more space by removing the manifold, but is there no way to remove the shroud, and get some extra knuckle room from the top? So glad to see you back!
Thanks for your videos. The presentation is very good. I just did this to my C5 by pulling the intake. The new AC Delco unit has a rolled crush washer and the original does not. I didn't use a torque wrench either. Could you feel that crush washer collapsing? How much did you torque it?
Here's the deal on the intake manifold. You really don't have to completely remove it. By merely disconnecting the injector connectors, the fuel feed connection, some fasteners, steam lines, the throttle body boot and the manifold bolts, you carefully lift the intake and slide it forward an inch or two. Just be mindful of the gaskets, which should remain in their grooves, so replacing them isn't a must do. Of course, taking the IM completely off is easy anyway. Anyway, this exposes the sensor and makes it very simple to R&R. Another note regards the small plastic vacuum line at attached to the MAP SENSOR (MAP), which is attached to the rear of the IM. This line is very short and has been the source of many malfunctioning a/c vent - defroster issues. There's a rubber 90' elbow boot that the line uses to make tje MAP sensor connection. Those have been known to become dry rotted and cracked. The other problem that involves the misdirected a/c airflow is that little plastic vacuum line also developes cracks down below the battery tray. It's a good practice, especially if the IM is slide forward, or removed to replace that plastic line with rubber. Don't have a clue why some engineer thought that a plastic vacuum line would have any appreciable longevity without cracking or splitting, was a good idea. One more thing. When removing the back two IM bolts. you'll see that they cannot be lifted all the way out of their holes, because of the reduced space under the cowl. Just get some masking tape. Lift the bolts as high as you can and wrap the tape around the raised portion of the bolts so as to hold them in the "up" position. This will enable you to slide the assembly (with the fuel rails still attached) forward. One MORE thing. If you don't feel you need to replace that plastic vacuum line (I highly recommend you do) , you should at least add some additional line to it via a vacuum line coupler. A package of them at the parts store is probably under $3.00. I say add at least 3 or 4 inches, which allows for so much movement of the manifold while moving ot around. The factory guys left practically no slack when they were designing the vacuum system. So sorry for the dissertation, but hopefully this long explanation will help all those who have big hands, or reduced space behind that miniscule opening at the back of the intake manifold. Oh, thanks for the great videos.
Question, have you changed out your stock shifter for a short throw after market shifter? I want to do this project on my 2002 z06. Looks like the most popular shifter is the CWG Short Throw Shifter which includes the lower box. What's your thoughts if any?
So i got something funny going on with my C7, so for whatever reason on my way to work (2-3AM ) if is stay at 70 and under my temp tac will go to zero and will be stuck there until during mid day and i hit an extreme high rate of speed. Now ive learned that during that initial drive to work i have to step on it to avoid the whole ordeal. I’m guessing it has something to do with the dew that accumulates because if I don’t work and and just crank she up during normal morning hours she doesn’t tweak on me. I have a few mods done. Such as cat delete muff delete borla attack straight pipe etc etc. any idea?
Can i borrow your hands for this project ????? LOL Im going to attempt it. I bought my 989 in '14 w' 99k and approx a yr osu went out. I think i can make more room removing that hose that connects to brake booster bc it's in the way also btw after aprrox 6 mo the EBCM traction control went out also but that's going to stay broke. Too expensive to replace for my yr model
The oil pressure I got had a little black tube with screen in it to filter oil . I haven't seen anything about it on corvettes, but a Chevy suburban or an avalanche talks about the screen that comes with the sensor . Now I figure that is used with one of those.
@@chea12456 Filter/screen is for vehicles with AFM. Don't think the C5 has that feature. My G8 has the filter and I had to go back in after I found out
Great video! Makes me think a C5 could be in my future. 😁 How hard would it have been to remove the cowling? You made that look simple by the way. Thank you!
Not hard but the cowling under the exterior cowling still covers that area. Some people actually use a hole saw to cut an access hole....🤦♂️. Don’t do that.
Hey Chris... I have to do this to my '00 C5... and I'm SO not looking forward to it! I'm wondering if maybe drilling a hole through the upper vent channel might be a worthwhile workaround?? Or fly you out to California to do it for me! Hmmm. Anyway... thanks for this video!
I would take the intake off before drilling a big hole in the cowl. It’s not as difficult as it looks. Just make sure to torque it down in the proper sequence and spec.
So weird. I just bought another white c5 and it has the grand sport stripes. What's weird is before I bought it, in the last I never ever saw one with the stripes but not that I have one I'm seeing them everywhere
It was nice you didn't breakout the holesaw to the cowling, but I have seen that works too, and no hurt knuckles...lol...my gauge reads 80 and the DIC readout says 131psi...fyi...at least it doesn't read ZERO...lol
The best thing to do is remove the intake, and then remove the sensor. Take the sensor to a hose shop, had to make A steel braided line, about 12 inches long. Screw that into the port on the back of the engine, then add the new sensor under the end of the braided hose. You can make a bracket and then bolt that to one of the fuel rail bolts, after you reinstall and torque down your intake. You will have to lengthen the harness for the plug that goes on the top of the sensor, but that is easy to do. This way you don’t have to fight this next time around. I think it was maybe $20 or so to have a custom line built to fit.
@@mycorvettelife Yes but it's my daily driver and I work in the healthcare system so I needed my car to fixed today before or if the governor issued stay home orders for non-essential biasness and shop owners. Times are crazy at at this time. Just about everything is close. So in this case I paid for speed and a warranty. My 01 car has 49,754 miles.
@@glennd7115 make sure you don’t drop the new sensor inside ! I put it in the wrong socket and dropped it inside . Had to squeeze my hand inside to even reach it
It's not as easy as the video "guys", it's a freakn nightmare, make shore you dnt strip it trying to get it out ,putting the new one in is the fun part.lol,,dnt drop it down the firewall cause their goes 50 bucks.
Pulled the wipers and wiper cowl…. Took 2 inch hole saw and put a hole directly over the sensor. Remove,replace … place a cover over hole and put cowl and wipers on… done deal. First time, 30 minutes…
Depends on what it is. Some things are easy and some things are not. Sports cars in general usually have tight packaging leaving not much space for maintenance.
Thanks for your detailed video. Little things like the explanation of the socket helps all of us immensely. Great video thanks 👍
I heard this was extremely difficult. After watching you. It's pretty easy. My guage is still okay. If it ever goes, I'll have no problem swapping it out. Thanks chris.
Cut a hole under the cowl.
Thanks for cutting all the actual hard parts. Super helpful.
💯 True 👍🏼
I finally put my oil sending unit...1 1/16" socket. I cut above the socket. I can't believe it works! Saved $400 in labor
I had to do this on my old 2002 C5, what a bit-h. I ended up taking the manifold off and that made the job much easier for me. Great video Chris. Really like your how to vids.
I did this my first time about 8 years ago, but then I did it again last summer and I used the relocation kit so it is now on top and I will never have to do it the hard way again. Both times I removed the intake maniold.
Good job Chris....I had mine done at the corvette shop,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Big hands.
Pretty impressive to get your hand down there Chris. I could not with my gorilla like hands. It only takes about 20 mins to pop off the intake. It's a good time to clean things up and replace those gaskets, if anyone is tackling this job.
I’ve heard that is the better route for doing this job. 😊😅
How much extra space would we get? 😅😊
Great 👍 job. You have such great patience. Sounds great as usual? Look forward to your next video.
Steve
I will be doing this latter in the week when the parts arrive. Thanks
I know this is an old video, but I had read about a fairly easy way which is to remove the panel under the windshield wipers, use a dremel to edge out about a 3x6 inch portion of the underlying plastic directly above the oil sensor. You then have access straight down to remove/replace the sensor, replace the plastic section that was removed and duct tape in down, put the wiper portion back on (you then cannot see the taped area) and you are done! Really was quite easy.
Who wants to hack up their Corvette 🤦♂️lame
@@johnphillipsjr7238It's a car, not a precious gemstone. But, I'm sure it will be difficult to sleep at night knowing your 1 of 1 Corvette has been sullied. 😂😂😂
Good job.................you make it look easy.........
Thanks for ALL your videos, Chris! Suggest blowing or vacuuming debris from around the injectors befoer starting this project, and possibly after removing the electrical connectors from the injectors. It may be helpful to mention that the injectors stay on the fuel rail. Silicone lube on the injector o-rings before reinstalling them.
Nothing like the feeling of doing a tough job yourself, huh Chris? I need to do this myself on my C5.
Oh yeah, the infamous oil sensor!
Our hands must be the same size. I was barely able to do it as well. Thanks for the video instructions!
Thanks for info will be doing this soon👍🏾
My 2001 zo6 I changed mine with the fuel rails on
Well looks like I am screwed because my hands are huge. LOL!!! Guess I need to put the girlfriend to work. 🤣
Make it a date! 🤣
Good video. I’ve been debating my method of attack. I’ve decided to remove the manifold, my car has some miles, so I think that replacing the gaskets and cleaning will be the best route for my rig. Cheers!
Not a bad idea
Have you tackled this project yet?
Great video.....and I always like hearing that exhaust....
Cut an access panel above the sensor.
Then you can use the 27 mm socket and avoid the disassembled portion of the job.
Videos are posted online.
Please don’t cut holes in your car. Do it right.
@@mycorvettelifeNot an issue for some people. Holes are cut in cars all the time when doing modifications, for example. I did mine and the car runs and drives as it always has....and I can't even sleep at night knowing I did it.😂😂😂
Thanks for posting another option to changing it without having to remove the manifold.
I just did this using your method. Wasn't horrible, but the extra 20 minutes to pull the intake manifold is the only way to go. Would have been much easier and pulling the mani is a snap if you have done it a couple times before.
Great job bud
Informative video as usual Chris. Maybe you could invest in some kind of wireless microphone to clip on your shirt so your loyal subscribers don't lose so much volume when you're reaching for those tough to get spots.
Another great video, Chris, thanks!
Mine went bad today as so did my harminic balancer ordered summit HB
Thank you for the priceless information,my oil gauge is stuck at 80lbs,
Check your DIC read out, my 04 Z06 reads 131 psi...lol
Time for a new sensor!
Great video...I know you stated you can free up more space by removing the manifold, but is there no way to remove the shroud, and get some extra knuckle room from the top?
So glad to see you back!
Nope. In fact some people go as far as using a hole saw to cut an access hole in the cowl. Don’t do that. 🤦♂️
Thanks for posting. I also need to do this.
Very informative
My clip is facing directly away from me...thanks GM engineers. Just glad something major aint broke when I watched the gauge slowly peg out....
You made that look way too easy! Did you need to remove a vacuum hose to access the sensor? Good job!!!
No
Thanks for your videos. The presentation is very good. I just did this to my C5 by pulling the intake. The new AC Delco unit has a rolled crush washer and the original does not. I didn't use a torque wrench either. Could you feel that crush washer collapsing? How much did you torque it?
I did not torque it either. It’s pretty soft so it shouldn’t take much.
Great video, very informative. Could you post a link to the socket you used? I couldn't find it on Amazon. Thanks.
Lisle 13250 Oil Pressure Switch Socket www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR2RY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Z4QEEbV3H85NQ
Thanks!
What size socket does it take? Thanks great videos
It’s a 27mm oil pressure sending unit socket. A normal 27mm will not work. I go over this in the video.
What is the size of the Fuel Line removal Tool?
I need to do this on my 2000 c5. Not looking forward to it lol.
Chris, did you have to wrap the threads on the sensor with white tape to be sure it sealed before the install?
No, it comes with thread locker on it already.
Do you have a direct link to that socket? I can't seem to find it
Here's the deal on the intake manifold. You really don't have to completely remove it. By merely disconnecting the injector connectors, the fuel feed connection, some fasteners, steam lines, the throttle body boot and the manifold bolts, you carefully lift the intake and slide it forward an inch or two. Just be mindful of the gaskets, which should remain in their grooves, so replacing them isn't a must do. Of course, taking the IM completely off is easy anyway. Anyway, this exposes the sensor and makes it very simple to R&R. Another note regards the small plastic vacuum line at attached to the MAP SENSOR (MAP), which is attached to the rear of the IM. This line is very short and has been the source of many malfunctioning a/c vent - defroster issues. There's a rubber 90' elbow boot that the line uses to make tje MAP sensor connection. Those have been known to become dry rotted and cracked. The other problem that involves the misdirected a/c airflow is that little plastic vacuum line also developes cracks down below the battery tray. It's a good practice, especially if the IM is slide forward, or removed to replace that plastic line with rubber. Don't have a clue why some engineer thought that a plastic vacuum line would have any appreciable longevity without cracking or splitting, was a good idea. One more thing. When removing the back two IM bolts. you'll see that they cannot be lifted all the way out of their holes, because of the reduced space under the cowl. Just get some masking tape. Lift the bolts as high as you can and wrap the tape around the raised portion of the bolts so as to hold them in the "up" position. This will enable you to slide the assembly (with the fuel rails still attached) forward. One MORE thing. If you don't feel you need to replace that plastic vacuum line (I highly recommend you do) , you should at least add some additional line to it via a vacuum line coupler. A package of them at the parts store is probably under $3.00. I say add at least 3 or 4 inches, which allows for so much movement of the manifold while moving ot around. The factory guys left practically no slack when they were designing the vacuum system. So sorry for the dissertation, but hopefully this long explanation will help all those who have big hands, or reduced space behind that miniscule opening at the back of the intake manifold. Oh, thanks for the great videos.
Can you show us that S shaped wrench you made/used?
Is it possible to put a fuel pressure relay in backward on a 2001 corvette
No
Question, have you changed out your stock shifter for a short throw after market shifter? I want to do this project on my 2002 z06. Looks like the most popular shifter is the CWG Short Throw Shifter which includes the lower box. What's your thoughts if any?
I replaced my stock shifter with the aftermarket MGW shifter on my 2002 Z06. Love it! Easy install too.
@@PhilRavlin Thanks Phil, and I did mean the MGW not CWG. Don't know where that came from.
I personally have not done it, but it’s not hard.
So i got something funny going on with my C7, so for whatever reason on my way to work (2-3AM ) if is stay at 70 and under my temp tac will go to zero and will be stuck there until during mid day and i hit an extreme high rate of speed. Now ive learned that during that initial drive to work i have to step on it to avoid the whole ordeal. I’m guessing it has something to do with the dew that accumulates because if I don’t work and and just crank she up during normal morning hours she doesn’t tweak on me. I have a few mods done. Such as cat delete muff delete borla attack straight pipe etc etc. any idea?
Sounds like an electrical issue. Loose wire or something. Check the connecting at the sensor.
Would like to have seen you put the sensor on.
Can i borrow your hands for this project ????? LOL Im going to attempt it. I bought my 989 in '14 w' 99k and approx a yr osu went out. I think i can make more room removing that hose that connects to brake booster bc it's in the way also
btw after aprrox 6 mo the EBCM traction control went out also but that's going to stay broke. Too expensive to replace for my yr model
Did u put a filter in there
Is it the same on ls6 ?
Yes, same on all LS.
i think il try the trap door method
Okay I guess i'm next i'm gonna try
what do i do with the little filter that comes with the new oil sensor. Any help would be much appreciated !
What filter? There is no filter.
The oil pressure I got had a little black tube with screen in it to filter oil . I haven't seen anything about it on corvettes, but a Chevy suburban or an avalanche talks about the screen that comes with the sensor . Now I figure that is used with one of those.
@@chea12456 Filter/screen is for vehicles with AFM. Don't think the C5 has that feature. My G8 has the filter and I had to go back in after I found out
Great video! Makes me think a C5 could be in my future. 😁 How hard would it have been to remove the cowling? You made that look simple by the way. Thank you!
Not hard but the cowling under the exterior cowling still covers that area. Some people actually use a hole saw to cut an access hole....🤦♂️. Don’t do that.
Well I have a 1999 I did exactly what u said but my fuel rails are on my injectors still lol not good wasn’t that ez I guess
Easy enough.
My hands are small enough, but my 04 Vette only has 34,000 miles. I hope it last for a while.👍
The only thing is from my experience only use a ac delco unit and you really need to torque this sensor to spec to prevent from having issues again.
I had the shop do my 2002 oil sensor. It's a lot hard than you made it look.
It’s really not. Even if you had to remove the intake, it’s only a few bolts.
It's not hard, with the right tools. It's just annoying.
By the way by any chance that is the Lisle 13250 Oil Pressure Switch Socket: that u used
Yes
@@mycorvettelife thks 👍
Chris,if coils on back of engine were removed could that have helped with more room.
No
I would have liked to see that wire trick
No oil screen under sensor ??
Isn't Teflon tape necessary for the threads on the new sensor?
The new sensor comes with thread locker on it.
Nice job! Why no longer using the plastic corvette cover?
Because I remove them so often.
So everyone shows there gauge saying 130 psi mine jumps up to 80 but stays around there highest is 90 is that still the sensor?
Probably.
@@mycorvettelife thanks for the reply just got if last month so just being really careful lol
Hey Chris... I have to do this to my '00 C5... and I'm SO not looking forward to it! I'm wondering if maybe drilling a hole through the upper vent channel might be a worthwhile workaround?? Or fly you out to California to do it for me! Hmmm. Anyway... thanks for this video!
I would take the intake off before drilling a big hole in the cowl. It’s not as difficult as it looks. Just make sure to torque it down in the proper sequence and spec.
How long did it take ??
If I did t have to video, under 30 minutes.
Ended up taking manifold off... hands were too big
what about the screen under it. those get plugged
I watched a video where they didn't remove anything to change unit. Did you see it? Can you do mime:)
So weird. I just bought another white c5 and it has the grand sport stripes. What's weird is before I bought it, in the last I never ever saw one with the stripes but not that I have one I'm seeing them everywhere
It was nice you didn't breakout the holesaw to the cowling, but I have seen that works too, and no hurt knuckles...lol...my gauge reads 80 and the DIC readout says 131psi...fyi...at least it doesn't read ZERO...lol
Yup, time for a new sensor.
The best thing to do is remove the intake, and then remove the sensor. Take the sensor to a hose shop, had to make A steel braided line, about 12 inches long. Screw that into the port on the back of the engine, then add the new sensor under the end of the braided hose. You can make a bracket and then bolt that to one of the fuel rail bolts, after you reinstall and torque down your intake. You will have to lengthen the harness for the plug that goes on the top of the sensor, but that is easy to do. This way you don’t have to fight this next time around. I think it was maybe $20 or so to have a custom line built to fit.
My 01 is at the shop as I watch this. I bought the sensor from the dealership. They told me $220. They said it's a under 2 hour job.
The sensor is $30 on Amazon.
@@mycorvettelife ouch!!
@@mycorvettelife Yes but it's my daily driver and I work in the healthcare system so I needed my car to fixed today before or if the governor issued stay home orders for non-essential biasness and shop owners. Times are crazy at at this time. Just about everything is close. So in this case I paid for speed and a warranty. My 01 car has 49,754 miles.
I'm cutting a square under the cowl.
😬
I only mess with something when there is a problem
Generally good advise.
We missed the most important of the video. How to put the new one in 🤷♂️
Do a vid of you lowering it already geez
You can also make a hole right by the wiper and save your self all that extra stuff
That’s how I’m doing it. Pretty simple. Except now I have the wrong socket. Damn it.
@@glennd7115 make sure you don’t drop the new sensor inside ! I put it in the wrong socket and dropped it inside . Had to squeeze my hand inside to even reach it
It probably would have taken 6 more minutes to pull the intake.
Maybe 30, buy why do it if you don’t have to?
It's not as easy as the video "guys", it's a freakn nightmare, make shore you dnt strip it trying to get it out ,putting the new one in is the fun part.lol,,dnt drop it down the firewall cause their goes 50 bucks.
Pulled the wipers and wiper cowl…. Took 2 inch hole saw and put a hole directly over the sensor. Remove,replace … place a cover over hole and put cowl and wipers on… done deal. First time, 30 minutes…
I will never advise anyone to cut holes in their car.
has anyone heard of DNA Motor Sports exhaust for c5 corvette? Just type Walmart Exhaust C-5...Lol Really !!
Why are corvettes so hard to work on
Depends on what it is. Some things are easy and some things are not. Sports cars in general usually have tight packaging leaving not much space for maintenance.
C5 Corvetttes are crazy easy to work on. BMWs on the other hand...not so much.
Please know. If it fails in the closed position the car will go into limp mode. Will only go slow after that. FYI. 🫣