MPCNC Lowrider part 2 - belts, wiring, firmware: Ramps + SKR V1.3, TMC5160 & touch screen
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ก.ค. 2019
- An enormous, easy to pack away CNC machine that is largely 3D printed? Meet the MPCNC Lowrider2! In part 1 I made the parts and assembled the frame. In part 2, I cut the tubes to size, install belts and show you how to wire up the base Marlin firmware with Ramps and DRV8825.
I then show an advanced version, with an SKR V1.3 mainboard, TMC5160 silent steppers, dual endstop self squaring firmware and a customised MKS TFT touchscreen. The files required for all of this are available for free below.
In the next instalment, I will be cutting some stuff and if time allows, designing some quick release belt holders with proper tensioning.
My free SKR V1.3 and MKS TFT firmware files: gum.co/UiATm
Printed endstop and LCD mount parts I designed: www.thingiverse.com/thing:376...
V1 Marlin fork firmware: github.com/Allted/Marlin/tree...
Dual endstop firmware reference: www.v1engineering.com/auto-sq...
Belt and pipe calculator: jscalc.io/calc/OaNzWO4j2kmHeMPK
Ramps case I showed: www.thingiverse.com/thing:118...
MKS Gen L case I used: www.thingiverse.com/thing:336...
X Endstop clamp I remixed from: www.thingiverse.com/thing:107...
Belt tensioner I showed: www.thingiverse.com/thing:345...
Previous videos that might assist:
Lowrider2 MPCNC part 1: • 3D Print your own CNC ...
SKR V1.3 comprehensive guide: • SKR V1.3 Comprehensive...
TMC5160 guide: • TMC2209 and TMC 5160: ...
MKS TFT28 guide: • MKS TFT28 touch screen...
Purchase the SKR V1.3 32bit mainboard:
Aliexpress: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bX5YUTFi
Amazon: amzn.to/2RNMOif
Banggood: www.banggood.com/custlink/KDK...
Purchase TMC5160 stepper motor drivers:
Aliexpress: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cnx9uB5m
Amazon: amzn.to/2Yfkgns
Banggood: www.banggood.com/custlink/mDD...
Purchase MKS TFT28:
Amazon: amzn.to/2T4Hwih
Aliexpress: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/blcFX560
Banggood: bit.ly/2U6DMgk
eBay Aus: ebay.to/2T06Cik
Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order: www.x3d.com.au
Take a look around and if you like what you see, please subscribe.
Support me on Patreon: / teachingtech
#mpcnc #lowrider2 #3dprinting
Great concept, "lowrider" CNC . My very first CNC machine I built back in the late 1980's early 1990's was also a lowrider, almost like a plotter, vinyl cutter on the Z axis function (Pen UP , Pen Down). At that time, I needed to cut a lot of flat plates from plywood, plastic and thin aluminum, so height was not that big of a deal and thus I designed my machine to run on parallel rails using high quality drawer slides spaced 4" appart for the x and Y axis, using acme screws, home made delrin nuts and steppers from surplus machinery. I mounted this machine mechanics to a 2" thick particle board formica covered 2x2 ft night stand table, it was heavy solid and pretty darn flat and had great squareness so assembly was rather fast. All CNC file work was saved as plt file, (plotter file extension) and I was running a DIY 4 axis controller board powered by an old computer power supply. Back in the day there were no kits available and one had to piece everything together with a lot of elbow grease, search/find and creativity, but this first machine worked very well for the making flat pattern work.
I made a similar machine 5 years ago tired of not finding a suitable inexpensive machine that would cut, ultra fast, fabrics. Lasers are great for this and running on belts it is a must for speed. My fabric cutting lowrider machine however runs on steel U-Channel extrusions for both the rails and the table base, making it extremely rigid, and probably overkill for laser cut fabrics, but the U Shapes on the extrusions also allowed me to hide the belts inside for a super clean setup. This machine will also cut wood and aluminum equipped with a high speed router with a good degree of precision.
A machine that uses a regular table, or work surface, as a base is a bit tricky, since most tables are not designed for squareness precision bases but rather for surface functionality. I also have made my own 3D printed rails and no matter how strong you make a plastic 3D printed plastic rail, it does not match the rigidity and precision of a metal one, and although properly designed 3D printed rails work great with high precision skate bearings, just do not plan on cutting metal parts with precision and speed, for this you really need a rail system and structure with high precision and mass, no 3D printed plastic rail block or wood table mounted mechanics is going to do that.
One of my first bought CNC machines was an early retrofitted Sherline Mill (not steel but still, solid aluminum machine) a great little machine which I modified the screws and nuts to provide greater precision, and impressively I cut a lot of aluminum small Injection molds including some steel dies, for the first products I was producing when I establish my company. Back in these times , desktop 3D printers to the level they are now, were still a dream.
It is interesting to see technology evolve, especially when you have been watching it from the very early stages.
You are the best and glad to see you contribuiting to open source projects to make getting into CNC easier, better control boards, and better use with end stops everywhere, and touch screen control!
damn Michael!!!! this is (imo) some of your best stuff yet! you are growing so fast, keep up the massive work
You are like a genius software/mechanical/electronic engineer with a thick smattering of talented 3d design.
Great job, helps me a lot, as I am at the point you finished in video1.
Controller and wiring , you just helped me figure out what to use.
I am doing the MPCNC myself!
I love the customization of the touch screen... great project and I would love to see the Ryobi trim router in action... I love your channel.. thank you for all your awesome work and sharing it!!!
I'm planning a quick release system to switch between router and laser. More designing to do!
Love this design. I am a technical mentor at a local school STEM High School Invention Center. I presented this design to the school Board an receive approval to teach and advance class on building a CNC for the center for use. Thanks for the detail design to reference.
Goid grief you really put alot of work into these, much appreciated, especially seeing the use of the 3d printer type control board and touch screen so you can run a job via an sd card. No need to have a laptop so saving $$$$$ Laurie
Hey! Awesome video. Glad you found a use for the MKS GEN L case I designed for my MPCNC. Didn't realise you can get 32 bit boards with the same form factor; am very tempted to do what you've done and go 32 bit with a nice touch screen!
Truly amazing! And I love that you’re making your improvements free as well! Thank you 😊. This is how open source should be. I just wish I was good enough to add to it myself. One day maybe. Cheers
Likes the video. A Little fast but the information looks concise enough for me to use. Great job and thank you. I'm going to check out your other videos now.
I was eagerly awaiting this follow up video. Very well done, you make a great instructor.
Hey Michael, Awesome project and it's coming along great. Although I don't have the room for a CNC it's still interesting.
Great video series. When you adjust the voltage, I suggest using the 2V setting for adjusting, as it's (usually) more precise than the 20V setting. The difference is "huge" on the cheap DT830x multimeters. If you have a Fluke, it really doesn't matter, though. ;)
Impressive job you have done
Nice :-)
Thanks for sharing :-)
You just saved me a lot of time. Thank you.
You're very welcome :)
This is the beginning of cheap and high quality cnc. Can you imagine, how many things will be possible if makers can shape metal?
this way we can 3d print cnc machines and cnc hot ends and stuff for the printers. My mind is blown!
great video...
i wish i had the talent and knowledge to build that Lowrider CNC....
Awesome, i am looking for a cool cnc for a while. This will fit my needs perfectly... Do some milling vids with that👍
Thank you for all of your hard work on this project. I am building the MPCNC and made the appropriate changes in the Marlin config that you provided to run dual x and dual y steppers using the SKR v1.3. It worked the first time! Now all I need is a spindle motor and I will be in business.
How do you like the firmware for the SKR v1.3 ?
Can't wait to build one of these. Thanks for the video Michael.
I used sandleford towel rails. Didn’t have any of the glue labels and worked perfectly for mpcnc
Great job!! Excellent tutorial. Waiting for next videos showing machine in action! But, about VREF, does not it need double the value for Y and Z axis?
Another great video and that boot screen is niiiice!
I love how you developed this and I love how people add to it! What a great community! Thank you
Hi Ryan, thanks for making a fantastic concept. I can tell from the parts that this is very well engineered and a lot of time has gone into it.
@@TeachingTech Thanks, that is a great thing to hear. It took a lot of time and countless people like you willing to give it a try and giving constructive criticism. One heck of a community behind me making me look good.
A big thanks to you Ryan also. This is such a great way for people in the 3d print community to make the next step into CNC.
I hope to contribute some day.. Thanks to you both.
Getting close, Ryan guess I need to order a new wiring harness!!
Goo Gone for stickers and labels. Best stuff ever.
Looks great!!
You have taken a good CNC and made it Great. your tweets are very easy to understand and follow. the auto level and alignment is very clever. this is priceless to a newbie like me. I can't wait to try this build. is there anything I should know for USA inches vs Metric other than the pipes?
thanks for your hard work.
You are the best. Keep the videos coming and please don't forget about 3d printers 👍👍👍👍
Gday Mic Great Vids Helps me so much, was wondering one thing will the MKS TFT28 work the same with the Rambo 1.4 board as it does with SkR board? thankyou
Nice video! Thank you for the interesting content. I would be interested a test of how accurate the Lowrider is and how long it takes to carve some kind of test pieces for exemple from 12 mm soft plywood and something bit harder like baltic birch plywood.
Hello Michael, Terrific project I plan on following your lead!
I would like to try the senseless homing with the auto squaring and I would like to understand why you had to move to dual limit switches. Also can you say why you selected the TMC5160 as oppose to say TMC2209?
Thanks for what you Do!!!!!!
Yup gonna be making one of these for sure. Far too useful to pass up.
Did you make one? How’d it go?
Hi Michael. I raely like your content.
I have one question.
Why did you wire the limit switches to normally open?
I would rather wire the normally colsed.
Thanks for your helpful videos.
Any reason you chose TMC5160 over TMC2209? Is the higher current rating of the TMC5160 really needed or is the TMC2209 sufficient?
Nice work. You might want to reconfigure your machine to home to Z max instead of Z min, considering that the machine will have a router on it. You wouldn't want to damage something if you accidentally hit home all by mistake.
wonderful, impressive build - you make me want to construct one!
Great video. I have question about tft screen, can I instal 3.5" screen, its bigger and cheaper?
Hi Micheal. Thanks for a great video. I’m really enjoying your channel. You have inspired me to attempt this Lowrider 2 and I’m finally up to the electronics stage. I bought an SKR V1.3 with TMC2209s and with a TFT35 v2.0 display. I was hoping to be able to adopt you generously shared firmware to get it all up and running. At the moment I’m having real trouble with the display update. Can not seam to get it to simply accept a logo.bmp update via the SD card as they mention in their document about customisation of the display. Are you able to point me in the right direction?
Thanks for this video. I am currently trying to build the Lowrider CNC and am about ready to do the wiring but have a couple of questions.
The RAMPS kit I bought has A4988 stepper motor drivers I have read that these are more reliable than the DRV8825 drivers, but they are 16 step rather than 32 step. Will the same firmware work with these, or do I need a different firmware, and if so which one? I do have some 2588's available which I can use if that is recommended.
Second question is about burning the firmware. Do I have the RAMPS board and LCD board plugged in when I burn the firmware? or do I burn the firmware first, and then plug in these boards. I assume that the firmware has to be burned before I can adjust the potentiometers.
Vern in Canada
great video I'm building the lowrider2 in the same config as yours just wondering if you have a wiring diagram for how you wired yours up as i noticed you had black wires coming of the stepper drivers many thanks peter
great stuff.
Mine is on the way
how much would I have to do to make your tft file compatible with the btt tft 24? would I have to resize all of the icons? Great work btw ive watched your videos many times and am using at as a reference to finish my mpcnc
nice work and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Can we use this LR2 CNC for the commercial purpose with air cooling system? .because if we use continuously 4 to 8 hours stepper motor and control board temperature will increase..
so please advise ......
Great set of video on Lowrider, they are very helpful, thank you. Does your firmware version also support the larger MKS 35 TFT? Thanks
Great video.... do you think the firmware you used can be used with small changes in a V1 Burly MPCNC ? what major changes should be required?
You have the 12 volt fan output labeled TTL. Which uses 5 volts. I used a spare endstop pin on my Rambo MINI board for 5 volt TTL. Remaping the fan output to that pin. The SKR 1.3 might require the same to the spare endstop input.
interesting to see the dual leveling, never seen anyone do that before, wondering though how that would go with putting strain on the 3d printed parts if its way out of alignment (one side compared to the other)
Woooo
No clue if I was first, but been waiting for this.
Love your explanations - Unfortunately I'm coming in to this a bit late and the V1 kits were discontinued. Instead I have tried to 'go it alone' and source all the parts individually and have now completed all the mechanical bits. I would like to use your auto-squaring solution but the SKR 1.3 appears to be discontinued - do you know if the SKR 2 is a direct replacement?
btw - Try turps instead of acetone to remove those labels, you may need to scratch through the shiny coat on the label first.
Use the neglected conduit for your wires spanning across your machine. then cable chain across the aluminium angle for your x.
I have some spare cable chain in my drawer and am considering this.
Hi Michael, regarding the sticker cleaning, I would suggest white spirit, as acetone evaporates quickly. As a painter we have to remove loads of stickers from doors, the white spirit removes easily even the glue. It takes time to soak it in, but once it's done the cleaning is a piece of cake.
What awg do you suggest for the nema 17? I'm planning to use an SKR 1.4 turbo with 5 TMC 2209.
Thanks for the great uploads, happy for the free shared knowledge.
Keep up the good work.
Hey, this is awesome.I just updated the firmware on the TFT28 that I had. Is it possible to also have a "100mm" range in the move tab? I know this can be pretty dangerous if you accidentally hit the 100 instead of 1 or 10, but 2.5m is a long way on the Y. It would be even better if it was possible to only limit the '100' range to X and Y
Hello Michael. Been learning lot from your 3d printer vids and wow i just discovered this so late, and am about to make one and starting to go through self sources BoM in my country. Why did you opt for SKR instead of the original Ramps btw? Is it still viable to build LW using Ramps Mega combo? Cuz i got lots from my old spares, and A4988 drivers? Thx a lot, hopefully before i make much mistakes in purchasing the wrong item that you can help sort it out as it's quite hard to find parts here in my country, Indonesia.
A simple turn buckle could eliminate zip tied belts. Would also give you an easier means to adjust the belt if it is to tight
Whelp... guess I know what my next project is gonna be. Awesome set of videos!!
You are my hero
Best video I've seen in a while! Can this be adapted for plasma cutting?
No
I have a Bigtreetech TFT35 touch screen, and I like your buttons and icons. Can you share the source .bmps for the icons you edited?
Best way for stickers is with a heat gun or hair dryer, then some acetone for any residual glue.
Great!
Have you had any trouble with the diplay not being on a fixed mount keeping you from cancelling?
idk if it's actually gonna be a problem, but that mounting of the z end stop switches looks sub optimal, as the axis you are measuring them against is also the direction the mount can rotate, making it easy to get a sensor out of alignment.
Michael, is it possible to use an SKR 1.3 board in place of the ramps?
I think you should absolutely fix the way you do the homing for z axis. If you do it with a tool mounted going down, your tool will likely touch in the table. Or you do it at last in a known position where you did an hole big enough for your tools.
Saw a combo with the sir v1.3 with tft35 v 2.0 and tmc2280 uary would this work with your custom firmware and graphics
do i need to set up my drivers for uart mode for this? and is the dummy thermistor just meani wire a normal thermistor into them pins?
Will your version of the firmware with the touch screen work with the Rambo 1.4 board?
Can you use this kit for cnc plasma or does that cause other issues?
jeez, how did I miss this?
Do you have a guide on swapping fillament mid print (Collor change)? Ender 3 !
I have a question: the entire system sits on just 4 wheels? no counter wheel beneath the board? What happens if you put to much downwards pressure with your router? Wouldn't that push the entire gantry up from the table?
Great video! Will the MKS TFT 35 3.5" version work with the files you have provided? I'm am thinking of building the lowrider cnd and already have a mks tft35 screen.
I'm building my own with a SKR v1.3 and TFT 35 v2.0. Here's a great case for both www.thingiverse.com/thing:3878962.
I have dual homing Y and Z. Currently building the table so haven't been able to test the Y axis, but X and Z are working fine. I also did a few mods to the TFT 35 firmware to add zeroing and removing unnecessary functions Currently, my build looks like it should home to Ymin rather than Ymax. Not sure why Michael chose to home Y to the far end of his table. I'm going to add another set of Y axis end stops instead of removing wire, and then simply swap them out. After that, my Lowrider2 should home x and y to the front left of the table.
I stopped buying some pvc fittings from homedepot because they put barcode stickers on the parts. Some they place right on the glued surfaces, and getting it off is nearly impossible. The same with copper pipe fittings, though they are so expensive now you cannot justify using them anyway.
Also wouldn't using copper pipe be better because it is smooth?
How can I use different stepper drivers (like the TMC2208) would I have to edit the firmware or will it just work?
you can do sensorless homing... just need to add some spacers to the lead screw. Check my build thread on v1 forum :)
I found it inconsistent, mainly due to my two Z axes having different alignment and therefore varying torque to rotate. I agree you can do it but there came a point where I had to cut my losses and get it working more reliably.
Heat gun to get rid of most labels. Softens the adhesive so it comes off clean then there's just a bit left that comes off easily with acetone
I'm hoping you still check these comments. But thank you for your work on this! I can't find the skr 1.3. The link says unavailable and I can't seem to find it anywhere else. Will your custom firmware work on a 1.2 or. 1.4, or 2?
Great Job! I think you should make a frame and y carriage based on the open source Prusa plans but maybe make it a bit bigger say 300+. I would really enjoy watching that series.
Are you not having any issues with noise from the stepper motor. Limit switches are prone to glitches because of this. Shielded cable is a solution to this. Some people are using cat 5 to wire the limits as well. I just wanted to give you heads up just in case you have a long print on your hands and randomly locks. Also Grounding the metal on your machine. It took me days to figure that out.
Really awesome. If it's possible to cut depron and 3mm plywood I will probably build one
I have both of those in hand and I'm confident it will handle it. Will test for sure.
Use Zippo lighter fluid for cleaning the sticky residue from stickers off
Thanks for all your videos, I have put the file for the SKR onto the SD card reset but nothing, screen file worked a treat. Any suggestions
neither are working for me.. plus the files weren't free. i had to donate.... not that I care about donating mike has helped me a lot thus far. but now that the files are not working at all, I feel scammed a little. also, the fact that the marlin doesn't support 2209 drivers so I even purchased 5160s and that set me back 150 Canadian. and inside his skr 1.3 files there's not even a firmware file or a .ino. the reason I even went this route is that my time is scarce atm, just to get it functional. but eventually I will get this up and running myself the long way. did you get this up and running?
Would it be possible to get the BMP files of your custom icons please? I would like to use them on my Bigtreetech TFT35.
FYI, to remove sticky residue try soaking the labels in WD40 for several minutes then wiping down with alcohol after
Great information about the mpcnc dont spose this will be able to cut metal or if it can be modified to cut metal like aluminium or steel?
With the rolling frame I'm not sure it will be rigid enough. You would have to do it so incredibly slow for this reason.
@@TeachingTech so would you suggest doing a normal type mpcnc for metal cutting?
Hi Michael,
I'm very new with DIY CNC and programable boards.
I found your channel and it is exactly what I was looking!
I tried exactly the same as you explained in the video and I keep getting this error when I press build:
LPC1768 FAILED 00:00:01.069
I don't know what error is this but I know that number lpc1768 is the processor.
Unfortunately, it happens only with your firmware, I tried with marlin bug fix 2 and it works but I want to use your version of firmware for auto balance function.
Thanks in advance and stay safe!
I have a 3018 cnc and I am wondering if I could use the control board (grbl) off that run the lowrider 2
so I like the second build part of this really informative and my question will this be able to do aluminum or is it just for what and if you would suggest to someone for around $1,000 what would suggest for a CNC machine that's table top that can do aluminum Max 3/8 of an inch
I have cut 6061 Tempered 1/8" on my lowrider2 without issues it may be able to do thicker. but you'd need to go slow.
Convert the x to screws and it will work harder, most belt systems have to run slow
It appears that the version of Marlin used to configure for Dual Endstops ( both yours and the ones from V1) do not have support for the TMC 2209. Marlin 2.0 Bugfix does. How can I add support for the TMC 2209 to your preconfigured Dual Endstop in Marlin Config.h?
When you mount a laser, I'm curious as to what it would take to be able to cut 1/8" or 3mm plywood.
Personally I think it all depends upon the size and power of the laser and thus is really hard to answer with any sort of accuracy. I've got a small $70 one that can mount magnetically on the side of my Ender 3 3D printer that will barely cut 1mm deep and yet I've also got a big 30 watt one in a cabinet, the so called chinese laser which, when you get past the ridiculously crappy programming can cut 3-4mm but I'm told that for any sort of serious engraving you need to get the 40W one or better still the 100W one but the price goes up seriously when you do. Forgive me if I'm wrong here but for cnc work I think this machine has great potential, for light laser engraving work it has as well but for laser cutting you may find that a dedicated Laser machine of fairly high power would be your best bet but please, if your experience teaches you that I am mistaken in my thoughts, please get back to me as I also would be able to find a better way to achieve laser cutting and if it were possible, laser engraving on metal without having to throw away my machine and get a 40W minimum one to replace it. Best of luck with it all and persevere with this machine, I've almost got the bugs out of mine and it teases me into thinking of a whole new world of projects in wood in my future.
My 40w laser will chew through it. No doubt you will find a video of someone cut testing on youtube.
Wondering if it's possible to have one Z limit switch signal also serve as a Z probe signal? So after homing Z you would then have an alligator clip with an extended limit switch write on the tool and the other one on some conductive material that the tool touches to indicate the tool height. Possible?
Help me please! I am using your set up and FW setup but i do not know how the board needs to be set up as in the little jumpers under the drivers???
In the video you mention adding a resistor to trick the board into thinking it has temperature, but you do not say which resistor you use. Can you explain this a little better? Also, in the video when you show the SKR board, it does not look like you a resistor on it any more, but something else? I am new to this and any information would be greatly appreciated.
You can easily get the labels off the pipe with a lighter, just heat them up and they peal off easily.
Michael, do you have a link for the limit switch?
Just a heads up, at @11:10 you said common and normally open pins. The MPCNC LR documentation all says use common and normally closed. Did you reverse something in the firmware to account for the opposite switch configuration?
By any chance is there a way to add a Z PROBE to the board?
My thoughts were to use the alligator clip method as a switch to probe the bed and having the probe use the z end-stop switch pins. So after I home with the dual Z I then disconnect one z end-stop and connect the Z probe to the same pins and run some G code. However I googled around and found that it might not be possible to use the pins for different purposes. There are several nice Z PROBE ideas on Thingiverse to calibrate the ZERO point of the build are.
Another idea is that it seems like X_MAX pins are available but is it possible to have a Z PROBE hooked up to X_MAX or X_MIN pins and have the signals work for Z PROBE?
I haven't assembled my machine yet but I have all the parts and can't wait to make this. Thank you for this nice tutorial :)
Well this is something I have to do now....
Another amazing and well detailed build. I would love to see you build a conventional MPCNC. I know you already have a router but have you considered making it for a plasma cutter.
Thanks again Mike for the great vids.
That is an interesting idea. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I also have a router and would interested in making a plasma cutter
I have been looking at a MPCNC plasma cutter for some time. There are quite a few people who have had really good results.
With a plasma you dont have cutting forces so there is little to no tension on the supports.
What is interesting is there was a torch height control done using arduino. Its open source and on github.
This link shows it in action and the github files on in the videos description
th-cam.com/video/S1K2DV6XvNE/w-d-xo.html
You can also get reasonable cnc cutting torch attachments for plasma cutters ranging from £11 on aliexpress.