Brian, great video. A neighbor of mine, gave me an old Workmate same exact one you have in your video. This is on my bucket list to replace the tops. Using my old Craftsman RAS, need some maintenance. Thanks again for sharing your talents.
I just finished mine. I have a B&D one and HF one. I salvaged the 3/4" marine grade plywood that I just replaced on my DeWalt RAS . Double thickness. I cut the v groove like you did. Thanks for the videos. JW
I love your use of the RAS! I still haven't gotten a chance to get the craftsman I inherited set up properly, hopefully I can do that while on lockdown haha, thanks for the video!
Thanks for posting this - straightforward and informative. Finished product looks great! I just acquired an old workmate with a very used (and abused) top. Coincidentally my brother just came across some scrap pieces of Baltic Birch that someone was throwing out. They are thinner pieces but I'm hoping to be able to laminate 3 of them together to do something similar to what you've done here. Nice use of the radial arm saw - I've got my grandfather's old Monkey Wards one and while it isn't nearly as nice as that one, I've found this type of saw to be versatile. Thanks, Matt
Completely brilliant!! My son scorched mine with a plasma cutter and I have left some saw marks in them too - this is a terrific guide to make replacements that to me, look better than the originals! Thanks.
Ah, steel bar inserts, what a great idea, thanks 🙂 (I'd picked up a cheap clone workmate from the side of the road, it had an MDF table. Naturally that had turned to mush, so I've some plywood to replace it)
The steel bars aren't necessary for a Workmate. However, I routinely use this technique to make strong, flat tables. If you search for "Mr. Sawdust" tables, you will find this construction is typically used to make flat tables for radial arm saws.
got my first bd workbench about 1978. worked it to destruction for app 10 yars. splashed out on an all singing and dancing new model and got a year out of it. theyd made the tables from mdf, swelled and distorted in no time, the first one was small and simple but had marine ply tables
Great work. I have a little workmate and I think its a great tool, especially if you are working indoors. Ive shaped a knife blank, used it to secure a vice, and cut wood on it. Armed with a few G-clamps, and maybe a sand bag to weight down the bottom, it perfectly fills that whole between "workbench" and "nothing". Ive tried doing handywork with nothing, and its miserable.
Great job, Brian, and very motivational (for me). I carelessly left my beloved Workmate 400 outside one day and, of course, it rained. The top swelled up like it was suffering from edema. Rather than make a new top, I just purchased a Workmate 425 and I'm disappointed but not surprised in the way it's been cheapened. Looks like I'll be trying to follow your lead and make a new, substantial top for my WM 400. The sad thing is the required baltic birch plywood will cost about as much as my new Workmate did :-(
Great video Brian, workmates are fantastic. Great upgrade. Mine are an older model that all have the V groove, but also a single vertical V groove that runs perpendicular to yours. Useful little feature.
Its funny how cheap you can pick up a workmates pro used. Ive got 2 of them. You know the rubber feet on them get brittle over time and fall off. I think a hardwood foot would be better with a felt Contact cemented on. Say somthing like Ipa or purple heart. The felt can always be changed as needed. Felt, carpet, whatever isn't going to mar a hardwood floor. Also new set of wooden dogs.
super nice job. if you dont have the machinery to create such professional tops, you can buy replacement tops online. an entire new workmate is not that much more than new tops. the price of the tops is reasonable, but when you add in 25 dollars shipping the value fades.
Thanks. I used 1/8” x 1/2” steel (half the thickness of this table). This is sometimes referred to as a “Mr. Sawdust” design-often used to construct flat tables for radial arm saws. If you search for that term, you’ll find more info about them.
Thanks. Yes, maybe overkill, but I’m a belt and suspenders kind of guy! I have some projects planned for it-one that may put some stress on the center (mortising machine) so it won’t hurt having some extra strength there.
I used 1/8 x 1/2 inch flat steel bars that you can find in hardware or big box stores. I’m not sure what size the chain link stretchers are, but they may be suitable too.
Liked this very much. Not having the tools at my disposal that you do, I decided to utilise 1 inch marine ply and used a pillar drill with a 19mm spade bit for the dog holes.........ho, ho, ho, the bluddy dogs have a diameter of ........yup, 19.5 mm.....sigh. Much sanding later, they are a very snug fit. Bastard thing is, a week later in Toolstation I found a 20mm spade bit......where the fekk was that when I needed it. Groan...... oh yeah, I left them unvarnished.......it's marine p,y after all...time will tell.
Thanks! Yes, I’m not surprised the dog holes are an unusual size. That’s one of the reasons I made my own dogs out of aluminum to fit the holes I drilled. I think you can see examples in some of my other videos:”Router table for B&D Workmate” and “ Portable assembly table”.
Hi Brian! I'm wondering is there any differences between WMs? Am just about to make a router table based on yours but realized the opening on mine is far less than on yours.. (Yours is 6 inch, mine is 4-and speaking about the openings😂😂😂😂) Have you moved the ply on the frame farer apart or bolted back its original position, seems you used orig position..) Many thanks in advance and wish you a happy 2022...(bit belated). AB
B&D Workmate did manufacture a variety of models. Searching online, it looks like some have a reported opening of 4-1/2” and others 5-1/4” (mine). The Workmate I have is model #79-001. I did move/remount the wooden jaws to maximize the opening and was able to achieve the 6” needed to accommodate the router lift I used (and can still fully close the jaws too). Hope that helps. Good luck with your router table.
@@brianweekley5700 hi and yes that will be the case, just reach the the opening i need. Thanks for responding, great contents responses and ideas everytime! Regards AB
Thanks for the question. A router with guide or a router table would work with a V-bit. Maybe two passes on a table saw with the blade set at 45 degrees?
No, the steel bars are not necessary for a Workmate. However, I build most of my tables like this. It’s often called a “Mr. Sawdust table”, named after Wally Kunkel who built them for his radial arm saws. It creates a very strong and flat table.
Nice video. One question. I didn’t see any screws holding the boards together. If you clamp down on anything in the V groove how well will the glue hold?
Thanks for the question. A glue joint is typically stronger than the wood. When the plywood is evenly coated with glue and clamped tight, you won’t have any issues.
@@SW-zu7ve No. Once laminated together under heavy weight, the wood glue is sufficient. On some of my larger tops that I make in the same way (seen in some of my other videos), I often use screws to hold the plywood together for cutting and alignment or to help hold them flat during glue up, but I generally remove them after the glue dries.
My wooden vise jaws are 1"thick x 5"wide x 29" long. Can you make them in this size? And how much do they cost? I have a Deluxe Dual Height Workmate, No. 79-001, Type 7.
@@nathanrice1796 Sorry, I don’t have time to make things for other people. I provided a video so you can make your own! Just glue two pieces of 1/2” plywood together and cut to size.
@@joeloiacono3792 As explained in my video, I just glued together two layers of 1/2” Baltic birch plywood (you don’t need the steel bars-a little overkill, but I’m doing that for other reasons). Baltic birch plywood can be a little hard to find, but a quality cabinet wood supplier usually has it. They typically come in 5 feet x 5 feet sheets (about $30?). However, I just took a quick look and could easily find replacement jaws available online.
The steel bars embedded and laminated between the two layers of plywood create a very flat and stable top that will not warp or bend over time. Overkill for a Workmate? Probably. However, if you search for “Mr. Sawdust table”, you will find this is a proven method to create very flat and stable tops.
I thinned the shellac for greater penetration into the wood. The purpose of the shellac is to seal the pores in the wood so the stain doesn't absorb unevenly. This helps make the stain finish less "blotchy".
Probably overkill for a workmate. However, the purpose of the bars embedded in epoxy is to maintain a very flat board that will not warp over time. Look up a “Mr. Sawdust table”. It’s a proven method to build a very flat table top.
@@brianweekley5700 I have seen several advertised on ebay, but i don't know how to know if they go sides ways such as yours? i will look to see if i can find the model you have.
@@anonymousperson4363 If you’re serious about getting a RAS, I suggest joining the “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum” where you can find lots of good information. Also, order a copy of the book “How to Master the Radial Arm Saw”, which also provides information on what to look for when looking at used saws. Check Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace-good sources for used saws.
@@brianweekley5700 I have my dad's old craftsman and wanted to start using it. Newbie basic question. I noticed you pulled the blade towards you into the wood for the crosscut. Is that the proper method? Is that for all ras or just your style? I assumed you pushed outwards into the wood. Very meticulous build. Amazing what you can do with skill and proper tools.
Thanks for your concern, but I’m not worried about it. I primarily use this workmate to hold my assembly table or router table. I’m always very careful when I cut anything on top of another surface. I make all of my tables this way. It originates from a design called the “Mr. Sawdust Table” that is traditionally used to build super flat and very strong tables for radial arm saws.
@Brian Weekley Hi Brian, I took a class with Wally K. in the basement of his home in New Jersey years ago. I have been addicted to putting steel bars in plywood ever since. I have also experimented with 6061 aluminum and works almost as good as steel.
We must have been separated at birth. Workmates are another of my fixations. I have 4 of them. There's a channel called Workmate Guy or something close, he has all kinds of ideas to customize these things
I don't think using a saw and a router constitutes a million pound-equipped workshop. Without any tools, people can always just buy replacement tops. I just wanted to show how you can make a higher quality top than the original. Thanks for the comment!
Actually, all of the cuts he makes can be done on a relatively inexpensive job-site table saw or even with a circular saw or tracksaw. With proper technique they can be done with a handsaw! You don't even have to have a router. With the right setup the holes can be drilled with a hand drill.
Nice video but pointless. Show me how to use such a portable workbench device That would make sense. It can be super like this if you don’t know what it’s all about standing in the corner of the garage.
Bought my WorkMate in 1978, still using it today.
They are useful!
Great to see another excellent video from you, Brian! Thank you. Hope you are staying safe and doing well.
Thanks! Doing OK and hope you’re doing well too!
Thank you, Brian. I know what I'm doing to my 40 yr old workmate next week! Excellent job!
Thanks! That was a simple, but fun project.
Great video and very helpful for what I am about to do. I have to say, your workshop set up and saws are awesome.
Thanks so much. Glad it was useful!
Brian, great video. A neighbor of mine, gave me an old Workmate same exact one you have in your video. This is on my bucket list to replace the tops. Using my old Craftsman RAS, need some maintenance. Thanks again for sharing your talents.
Thanks and good luck with your Workmate-great acquisition.
I just finished mine. I have a B&D one and HF one. I salvaged the 3/4" marine grade plywood that I just replaced on my DeWalt RAS . Double thickness. I cut the v groove like you did. Thanks for the videos. JW
Great to hear! Thanks, I appreciate the comment.
@@brianweekley5700 thanks for your help on the forum also 👍
I love your use of the RAS! I still haven't gotten a chance to get the craftsman I inherited set up properly, hopefully I can do that while on lockdown haha, thanks for the video!
Thanks!
Thanks for posting this - straightforward and informative. Finished product looks great!
I just acquired an old workmate with a very used (and abused) top. Coincidentally my brother just came across some scrap pieces of Baltic Birch that someone was throwing out. They are thinner pieces but I'm hoping to be able to laminate 3 of them together to do something similar to what you've done here.
Nice use of the radial arm saw - I've got my grandfather's old Monkey Wards one and while it isn't nearly as nice as that one, I've found this type of saw to be versatile.
Thanks,
Matt
Glad it was helpful. I love using my RAS whenever possible.
Thanks for showing how to use a radial arm saw for a change from nearly “all” other TH-cam channels!
Thank you. The RAS is definitely one of my favorite tools!
Really nice job with the top, and the video.
Thank you very much!
I like the idea of a V groove; I'll add a groove of my old Workmate that I keep stored under my DeWalt RAS (Dad purchased that RAS in 1963).
The V grooves were already in my Workmate tables. I was just replicating what was there.
Thank you for sharing Marty👌
Thank you!
Wow, I learned quite a bit of great information here.. Very impressive video!
Thank you. Glad it was useful!
Completely brilliant!! My son scorched mine with a plasma cutter and I have left some saw marks in them too - this is a terrific guide to make replacements that to me, look better than the originals!
Thanks.
Thanks! They are much better than the originals too!
the originals were particle boards so... but yes they look outstanding.. above and beyond
Ah, steel bar inserts, what a great idea, thanks 🙂
(I'd picked up a cheap clone workmate from the side of the road, it had an MDF table. Naturally that had turned to mush, so I've some plywood to replace it)
The steel bars aren't necessary for a Workmate. However, I routinely use this technique to make strong, flat tables. If you search for "Mr. Sawdust" tables, you will find this construction is typically used to make flat tables for radial arm saws.
got my first bd workbench about 1978. worked it to destruction for app 10 yars. splashed out on an all singing and dancing new model and got a year out of it. theyd made the tables from mdf, swelled and distorted in no time, the first one was small and simple but had marine ply tables
The Workmates went through many different versions. Unfortunately, they didn't get better as the new ones were introduced.
Great work. I have a little workmate and I think its a great tool, especially if you are working indoors. Ive shaped a knife blank, used it to secure a vice, and cut wood on it. Armed with a few G-clamps, and maybe a sand bag to weight down the bottom, it perfectly fills that whole between "workbench" and "nothing". Ive tried doing handywork with nothing, and its miserable.
Thank you. The Workmate is a great accessory for many things!
I got to do that. I need to find some decent plywood though. Thanks for the video
These are much better than the original!
Another great video. Thanks
Thank you!
Having the right equipment is the key.
Absolutely. True for any job!
Great job, Brian, and very motivational (for me). I carelessly left my beloved Workmate 400 outside one day and, of course, it rained. The top swelled up like it was suffering from edema. Rather than make a new top, I just purchased a Workmate 425 and I'm disappointed but not surprised in the way it's been cheapened. Looks like I'll be trying to follow your lead and make a new, substantial top for my WM 400. The sad thing is the required baltic birch plywood will cost about as much as my new Workmate did :-(
Thanks. That’s an easy project for the Workmate. It is amazing how expensive plywood has gotten-especially Baltic birch. Good luck with your project!
I harvested the wood for my replacement top from an old bookshelf a neighbor threw out. Worked fantastic, it was free and I love repurposing wood
Great video Brian, workmates are fantastic. Great upgrade.
Mine are an older model that all have the V groove, but also a single vertical V groove that runs perpendicular to yours. Useful little feature.
Thanks! Yes, mine have the vertical v-grooves also, but I just haven’t had a case to use that one so far.
@@brianweekley5700 honestly I haven't either lol
Its funny how cheap you can pick up a workmates pro used. Ive got 2 of them.
You know the rubber feet on them get brittle over time and fall off. I think a hardwood foot would be better with a felt
Contact cemented on. Say somthing like Ipa or purple heart. The felt can always be changed as needed. Felt, carpet, whatever isn't going to mar a hardwood floor.
Also new set of wooden dogs.
super nice job. if you dont have the machinery to create such professional tops, you can buy replacement tops online. an entire new workmate is not that much more than new tops. the price of the tops is reasonable, but when you add in 25 dollars shipping the value fades.
Thanks. Agree, It's easy and more affordable to make new tops yourself. Mine are much better than the ones that originally came with the workmates!
It's the wooden Jaws that are so expensive. Now I understand why 👍👌
LOL! Hey, I’m just building better ones for it.
Thank you for sharing, I like the idea of steel bar to help with rigidity, what is the dimension of the steel bar you use?
Thanks. I used 1/8” x 1/2” steel (half the thickness of this table). This is sometimes referred to as a “Mr. Sawdust” design-often used to construct flat tables for radial arm saws. If you search for that term, you’ll find more info about them.
Love your RAS videos and this one is great too! Still, isn't it overkill to add metal strips?
Thanks. Yes, maybe overkill, but I’m a belt and suspenders kind of guy! I have some projects planned for it-one that may put some stress on the center (mortising machine) so it won’t hurt having some extra strength there.
Thanks! 😊
Thank you.
Steel bars:
Dont know what you used, but the bars used as stretchers at the ends of chain-link fencing wire would seem appropiate.
I used 1/8 x 1/2 inch flat steel bars that you can find in hardware or big box stores. I’m not sure what size the chain link stretchers are, but they may be suitable too.
No table saws were harmed in the filming of this. However it did make a nice worktable.
LOL!
Ill be replacing mine with mild steel as it will become my portable welding table
👍
Liked this very much. Not having the tools at my disposal that you do, I decided to utilise 1 inch marine ply and used a pillar drill with a 19mm spade bit for the dog holes.........ho, ho, ho, the bluddy dogs have a diameter of ........yup, 19.5 mm.....sigh. Much sanding later, they are a very snug fit. Bastard thing is, a week later in Toolstation I found a 20mm spade bit......where the fekk was that when I needed it. Groan...... oh yeah, I left them unvarnished.......it's marine p,y after all...time will tell.
Thanks! Yes, I’m not surprised the dog holes are an unusual size. That’s one of the reasons I made my own dogs out of aluminum to fit the holes I drilled. I think you can see examples in some of my other videos:”Router table for B&D Workmate” and “ Portable assembly table”.
PS. I have a sacrificial work top made of chipboard which clamps in when drilling and sawing......
Nice. I’m sure that comes in handy.
Hi Brian! I'm wondering is there any differences between WMs? Am just about to make a router table based on yours but realized the opening on mine is far less than on yours..
(Yours is 6 inch, mine is 4-and speaking about the openings😂😂😂😂)
Have you moved the ply on the frame farer apart or bolted back its original position, seems you used orig position..)
Many thanks in advance and wish you a happy 2022...(bit belated).
AB
B&D Workmate did manufacture a variety of models. Searching online, it looks like some have a reported opening of 4-1/2” and others 5-1/4” (mine). The Workmate I have is model #79-001. I did move/remount the wooden jaws to maximize the opening and was able to achieve the 6” needed to accommodate the router lift I used (and can still fully close the jaws too). Hope that helps. Good luck with your router table.
@@brianweekley5700 hi and yes that will be the case, just reach the the opening i need.
Thanks for responding, great contents responses and ideas everytime! Regards
AB
How would you suggest making the V Groove without the radial arm saw.
Thanks for the question. A router with guide or a router table would work with a V-bit. Maybe two passes on a table saw with the blade set at 45 degrees?
are those seel bars really neccessary with good quality plywood?
No, the steel bars are not necessary for a Workmate. However, I build most of my tables like this. It’s often called a “Mr. Sawdust table”, named after Wally Kunkel who built them for his radial arm saws. It creates a very strong and flat table.
My top was gone when i got it. Could you tell me how wide to cut the top. Thanks
Mine are 5" wide x 29" long.
Nice video. One question. I didn’t see any screws holding the boards together. If you clamp down on anything in the V groove how well will the glue hold?
Thanks for the question. A glue joint is typically stronger than the wood. When the plywood is evenly coated with glue and clamped tight, you won’t have any issues.
Does all your plywood have screws holding it together?....
@@SW-zu7ve No. Once laminated together under heavy weight, the wood glue is sufficient. On some of my larger tops that I make in the same way (seen in some of my other videos), I often use screws to hold the plywood together for cutting and alignment or to help hold them flat during glue up, but I generally remove them after the glue dries.
@@brianweekley5700 I was being sarcastic to the guy to asked about screws holding a glued board. Nice that you answered though. You do great work.
@@SW-zu7ve LOL-went right over my head. Of course, the layers of all plywood are glued together!
My wooden vise jaws are 1"thick x 5"wide x 29" long. Can you make them in this size? And how much do they cost? I have a Deluxe Dual Height Workmate, No. 79-001, Type 7.
@@nathanrice1796 Sorry, I don’t have time to make things for other people. I provided a video so you can make your own! Just glue two pieces of 1/2” plywood together and cut to size.
I making new tops from 2×6's what is is a primer sealer to use thx you
What I used to finish the tops is provided in the video. Sorry, not sure what other info you need?
Would you consider making a set of vice jaws for my 79-005-04 workmate? I can’t find replacement jaws anywhere on line.
LOL! If you can use a workmate, you can make new jaws!
@@brianweekley5700 I actually am considering that Brian. Where would I buy the correct plywood To match the originals?
@@joeloiacono3792 As explained in my video, I just glued together two layers of 1/2” Baltic birch plywood (you don’t need the steel bars-a little overkill, but I’m doing that for other reasons). Baltic birch plywood can be a little hard to find, but a quality cabinet wood supplier usually has it. They typically come in 5 feet x 5 feet sheets (about $30?). However, I just took a quick look and could easily find replacement jaws available online.
Not sure how much good the steel bars do, but otherwise I plan to do something similar for my Workmate 550
The steel bars embedded and laminated between the two layers of plywood create a very flat and stable top that will not warp or bend over time. Overkill for a Workmate? Probably. However, if you search for “Mr. Sawdust table”, you will find this is a proven method to create very flat and stable tops.
Fantastic. All I need now to fix that $100 workmate is about $5000 in tools.
LOL! Most people who use a Workmate are tool people!
The problem with the workmate is the relatively weak clamping pressure. Otherwise a great concept.
What router bit did you use for creating the dog holes please?
Thanks for the question. It's an MLCS up-cut, spiral bit. I believe it's a 3/4" (#7498).
@@brianweekley5700 Thanks for your prompt response!
I have a Workmate 79-001, Type 7. Anybody know where I can buy some new wooden vise jaws for it? Size 5"W x 29"L. I need two.
If you just search for “replacement workmate jaws” you will find them! However, my homemade replacements are better than the original!
Why do you dilute the shellac with denatured alcohol?
I thinned the shellac for greater penetration into the wood. The purpose of the shellac is to seal the pores in the wood so the stain doesn't absorb unevenly. This helps make the stain finish less "blotchy".
@@brianweekley5700 Thanks for the reply
Do you believe that the metal strips did anything?
Probably overkill for a workmate. However, the purpose of the bars embedded in epoxy is to maintain a very flat board that will not warp over time. Look up a “Mr. Sawdust table”. It’s a proven method to build a very flat table top.
I'd gladly pay good money for a replacement set of tops for my 400. Can't find them anywhere.
Just make a set. You don’t need the laminated metal bars.
Man, I wish these saws were still made at a reasonable price.
Plenty of quality, old, cast-iron DeWalt radial arm saws available for a song if you look. Great projects for restoration and use!
@@brianweekley5700
I have seen several advertised on ebay, but i don't know how to know if they go sides ways such as yours? i will look to see if i can find the model you have.
@@anonymousperson4363 If you’re serious about getting a RAS, I suggest joining the “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum” where you can find lots of good information. Also, order a copy of the book “How to Master the Radial Arm Saw”, which also provides information on what to look for when looking at used saws. Check Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace-good sources for used saws.
@@anonymousperson4363 All radial arm saws I have ever seen have a pivoting arm and a pivoting head.
@@brianweekley5700 I have my dad's old craftsman and wanted to start using it. Newbie basic question. I noticed you pulled the blade towards you into the wood for the crosscut. Is that the proper method? Is that for all ras or just your style? I assumed you pushed outwards into the wood. Very meticulous build. Amazing what you can do with skill and proper tools.
I guess I need to go out and purchase @$10,000 of power tools so I can fix a $120.00 workmate?
Yup! That's what woodworkers do! LOL
Does the wood in back move? I have one with 225 missing back pce of wood and spacer i got spacers on order
Yes, the back table moves forward or backward when you turn the cranks. The front table is stationary.
@@brianweekley5700 what holds it on wm ?
@@brianweekley5700 My front table moves?
@@russellkeith3193 A few screws through the bracket into the wood.
@@russellkeith3193 B&D has many models of the Workmate. Which one do you have?
No es recomendable usar clamps sobre superficie de aluminio, es un metal suave..
I would not put those bars in becasue if you accidentally cut into the top, it will end badly
Thanks for your concern, but I’m not worried about it. I primarily use this workmate to hold my assembly table or router table. I’m always very careful when I cut anything on top of another surface. I make all of my tables this way. It originates from a design called the “Mr. Sawdust Table” that is traditionally used to build super flat and very strong tables for radial arm saws.
@Brian Weekley Hi Brian, I took a class with Wally K. in the basement of his home in New Jersey years ago. I have been addicted to putting steel bars in plywood ever since. I have also experimented with 6061 aluminum and works almost as good as steel.
We must have been separated at birth. Workmates are another of my fixations. I have 4 of them. There's a channel called Workmate Guy or something close, he has all kinds of ideas to customize these things
LOL. I have a project planned for this one!
Do you fabricate these tops for sale?
Sorry, no.
Thanks for your prompt response. Cheers!
Epoxy is overkill
Thanks for the comment. I'd say the steel bars are overkill. However, if you install the steel bars, they need to be set in epoxy.
lololololololololololololol yeah, you really need a workmate!!!!!
LOL!
Easy if you have a million pound equipped workshop.
I don't think using a saw and a router constitutes a million pound-equipped workshop. Without any tools, people can always just buy replacement tops. I just wanted to show how you can make a higher quality top than the original. Thanks for the comment!
Actually, all of the cuts he makes can be done on a relatively inexpensive job-site table saw or even with a circular saw or tracksaw. With proper technique they can be done with a handsaw! You don't even have to have a router. With the right setup the holes can be drilled with a hand drill.
@@user-pw7zj8bk8u Thanks for the comment. I’m fortunate to have the tools I use, but you can absolutely make this with basic tools!
Nice video but pointless. Show me how to use such a portable workbench device
That would make sense.
It can be super like this if you don’t know what it’s all about standing in the corner of the garage.
The purpose of the video was how to make replacement tops for a Workmate-not how to use one, but I appreciate the feedback.
Vendel - do a TH-cam search for WorkmateGuy. He has an incredible amount of very useful workmate videos on his channel
th-cam.com/video/39i2ypjmXv8/w-d-xo.html