I put a marble in the hose right where it connects to the airbox just before the bend and then pluged the hose back on so the marble is pressed against the outlet and put a zip tie on the hose to hold the marble firm in place. The marble is too big to fit in the small hole back to airbox and the zip tie stops it going back towards the motor (even if it could move it won't fit through the valves pipe so it can't go anywhere). only had to take off the side cover not the whole tank. but your method looks to be effective too. happy riding!
That’s another cool way to do it! I already had the tank off to access the EFI computer, but if you can do it without removing the tank, that’s a big plus!
I rather remove the whole pair system completely helps down the line with maintenance tidy up the top of the engine bay.smart moto do block off plates with the electrical connection to not set off any faults on the dash
I would block it either way. In my case I did re-flash, but I believe even a stock tune will pop some on deceleration (you don’t really hear it with the stock pipe because it’s so quiet).
@@tjobrien21 Ok, Going to block mine off until I get my ecu flashed. Too much popping going on in deceleration. I have decat with the mid pipe mod and Leo Vince slip on.
@@livinglife8489 that ought to fix it. :) I bet that setup sounds good, and the reflash should liven the bike up a bit. Mine was good in stock form, and it is GREAT after being flashed!
I don’t understand why you would strip the bike down that far and then not go the whole way, I mean it’s right there. Why not actually remove the PAIR system completely and correctly using block off plates and a resistor plug to avoid CEL.
Sure, you can do that. I just happened to have it apart already and wanted to leave it where it could easily be converted back to stock. No CEL concerns, since I had the bike tuned and ECU flashed, so it no longer cares about the PAIR system. To go back to stock, I remove the rubber plug and get the ECU flashed to stock. Super easy! :)
@@tjobrien21 Fair enough, that does make sense. Im having mine blanked in a few days + K&N and then a re-flash. Already running a full system but the excessive popping has worn off on me. How did you find getting the air box back on?
The PAIR valve allows air into the exhaust to help the catalytic converter handle any unburnt fuel. If you switch to a different exhaust, the air will cause popping in the exhaust on deceleration. The prevents the air from being taken in and stops the popping. :)
It works awesome didn’t have to take airbox out. Made the full akra exhaust sound perfect.
I put a marble in the hose right where it connects to the airbox just before the bend and then pluged the hose back on so the marble is pressed against the outlet and put a zip tie on the hose to hold the marble firm in place. The marble is too big to fit in the small hole back to airbox and the zip tie stops it going back towards the motor (even if it could move it won't fit through the valves pipe so it can't go anywhere). only had to take off the side cover not the whole tank. but your method looks to be effective too. happy riding!
That’s another cool way to do it! I already had the tank off to access the EFI computer, but if you can do it without removing the tank, that’s a big plus!
I have simply closed the hole with american tape, in italy its like rubbered very strong tape.
Thanks a lot for your help ❤
Excellent! :) Glad you got it fixed up! 👍🏼
Thanks. Saved me some work!
Brilliant!
Good afternoon, blocking ais does not generate any problem such as heating or increased engine wear
I rather remove the whole pair system completely helps down the line with maintenance tidy up the top of the engine bay.smart moto do block off plates with the electrical connection to not set off any faults on the dash
Where can I order hello lights for my z900
I’m not sure what hello lights are..?
Do u only block it off if u don’t plan on doing a ecu flash?
I would block it either way. In my case I did re-flash, but I believe even a stock tune will pop some on deceleration (you don’t really hear it with the stock pipe because it’s so quiet).
@@tjobrien21 Ok, Going to block mine off until I get my ecu flashed. Too much popping going on in deceleration. I have decat with the mid pipe mod and Leo Vince slip on.
@@livinglife8489 that ought to fix it. :) I bet that setup sounds good, and the reflash should liven the bike up a bit. Mine was good in stock form, and it is GREAT after being flashed!
Salut pour quoi vous avez bouché le trou
A quoi ça sert ?
Merci
Je l'ai branché pour éviter que l'échappement ne saute pendant la décélération
Hi Tim, may I know the size of bypass cap?
I believe it’s 3/8 inch inside diameter. It was in an assortment package (Dorman 02253), and is the smallest size.
@@tjobrien21 Thank you very much for the info.
I don’t understand why you would strip the bike down that far and then not go the whole way, I mean it’s right there. Why not actually remove the PAIR system completely and correctly using block off plates and a resistor plug to avoid CEL.
Sure, you can do that. I just happened to have it apart already and wanted to leave it where it could easily be converted back to stock. No CEL concerns, since I had the bike tuned and ECU flashed, so it no longer cares about the PAIR system. To go back to stock, I remove the rubber plug and get the ECU flashed to stock. Super easy! :)
@@tjobrien21 Fair enough, that does make sense. Im having mine blanked in a few days + K&N and then a re-flash. Already running a full system but the excessive popping has worn off on me.
How did you find getting the air box back on?
In didnt quite understand why or what you are doing here, can you explain a bit more context?
The PAIR valve allows air into the exhaust to help the catalytic converter handle any unburnt fuel. If you switch to a different exhaust, the air will cause popping in the exhaust on deceleration. The prevents the air from being taken in and stops the popping. :)