You might as well start collecting 3D printers at this rate Sam, four of them though can be useful if you have multiple things to print at the same time.
Excellent comparison. To the uninitiated, it seems there's quite a learning curve with these 3D printers which is daunting but the results make it look like it's worth the effort!
Good morning Sam, I have an Ender 3V2 which I use to create my own Neverwazzer items and spare parts for older railway items which cannot be sourced elsewhere. Watching some of the regular 3D contribitors on TH-cam [Chep, Makers Muse etc] they all make one valid point which bears repeating. These hobby machines still seem to be aimed at the people who whom the main interest is tinkering with the printing process its self rather than the finished item. There is no machine like the 2D paper printer where you have a few buttons and your documents just come out with out any drama, Some days I seem to spend half on my time "dialing" in the machine to get the results I want without stringing or gaps or blobs etc. I, like you, recommend a 3D printer as part of the model rail enthusiasts tool kit but they currently all seem to be along way off just plug and play.
I think you can get a pretty plug and play experience with something not atrocious in price like a Prusa mk4 800 usd or a bambu p1s or a1 mini 700 and 300 respectively so definitely not cheap but good reliability at a decent price not much more than a smartphone or for the bambu mini a few locos
Of course, it's a year later, but Bambu's A1 and A1 Mini are pretty close to "plug and play" at surprisingly low prices. And with both available with the multi-color print capabilities provided by the AMS Lite, you can print multicolor items in one job (body versus doors versus ladders ...).
Very interesting test, and thank you for fulfilling our immediate thought of applying a primer since it exposes all imperfections spot on. What this tells us is that 3D printing seems to be excessively time consuming: finding best settings, redoing miss prints, initial monitoring the process in person to build up enough confidence that it can go well ‘unmonitored’. It is said that 3D printing itself is a time consuming activity on its own which can quickly sideline a principle hobby. Model trains are your daily work as we’ve understood it, but for hobbyists with only so much time available, our question would go towards what to expect on time consumption. Resin printing is a different story but miss printing and warping are recurring issues there as well. We really would like to see a total review of the entire learning curve and the total process of 3D printing including all finicky shenanigans. That would be awesome Sam.
I have both an elegoo mars 2 mono and an ender 3 v2, and for anything miniature related, resin has the detail and smooth texture that is what I'm looking for. FDM prints are great for larger pieces, like structures, but will require filling and sanding for a good finish. If you haven't already, I would strongly recommend checking out a resin printer!
I second this comment. I own a Elegoo Mars Pro 2. I don’t print ‘train stuff’ I only print 28mm miniatures for playing Dungeons & Dragons. Absolutely fantastic detail for small models. I imagine that a resin printer would be perfect for your use too. Save the FDM printers for the larger houses etc…
I know this is 10 months after the comment but i must add resin can be dangerous and should not be undertaken by beginners. Also FDM prints can use as small ass 0.1mm layer thickness which has smooth texture like resin. If you're a beginner --> FDM If you're a hobbyist but dont make too small parts --> FDM (but with lower layer thickness) Hobbyist who likes detail and ISN'T beginner--> SLA (you need to be sure before switching) Dont know if this is helpful but i hope i help someone!
Might give resin a try, the detail is phenomenal compared to fdm, could use fdm to print the undercarriage and resin for the body. Great video as always.
@@louiel8711 I'd make sure you've got a somewhat well ventilated room to keep it in, even with activated charcoal you'll still get odors/fumes that you wouldnt want in a bedroom or something
Sam, Most excellent video comparison. I am assuming that another difference between them might be the number of hours one would then need to “clean up” each of the overall models to make them completely serviceable and finished to a similar state for use on a layout.
Always interesting to see your tests on hardware outside the train models. Your methodology is clean, reliable and well thought-out. So, we can see, as you said, that there is no clear winner around de 400-500 € mark for 3D printers. Next test, a resin one ? I am more interested by this technology due to its better results overall.
Interesting video Sam I don’t often comment on your channel but do follow you and your independent reviews have been a great help to me over the years the fact you obtain your own model s and don’t rely on freebies from manufacturers only makes the reviews more impressive good on you keep up the good work cheers al 🤗🚂👍😀
The result is excelent for some of the printers... but... and i know loads of people have taken this up prior. Isn´t a Resin printer far superior in a case where both surface finish, details are the most important, and i would guess, the part will be painted anyway? I bet some resin printer have sufficent resolution to print spring buffer.
Interesting video. It would be helpful to know the settings you used for each printer, might help solve some issues people like me have had in the past
@@skelligringphotographyandw7012 they vary a bit but more info will always be more helpful. Things like layer height, print speed, etc can at the very least give people a base line to troubleshoot from.
Hi Sam. I have got a 3D printer. So far I have only used it to produce lineside fences. This is because the Hornby ones (R537) had disintegrated! There is a considerable cost saving in 3D printing your lineside fences. What I found, however, was that producing a fence to exactly match the Hornby one was a challenge! But I did succeed in doing it. So now I have got a challenge for you - can you make a Hornby lineside fence? Which printer produces the best results? Over to you.
Hi Sam Watched a number of your vids so far and you do an awesome job :) looking at building a layout next year when we finish our travels and trying to do it on a budget to keep the wife happy LOL I'm really interested in the 3D stuff as I think it can save a lot of money and get a lot of rolling stock going on the track, I've been looking at the creality max it seems to have some good reviews anyway love your work :) Cheers Mark
Love the videos! I'd love to see one on how a Sams Trains video gets made. What is the inspiration for the channel? do you use scripts and takes? What plans do you have for the future of the channel?
Hi Sam a very informative video would like to know your settings for each machine i think ender 3 pro looks the best to me and the 4th one too great video sam keep them coming
Hey Sam, your videos are great and very informative. Have you ever considered adding closed captions? They can really be a big help for people who have hearing problems or trouble understanding spoken words. Cheers from Ohio, and keep up the good work. Dry rails and good running!
Thank you so much! I do enable the auto-generated closed captions, I know they're not 100% accurate all of the time, but I hope they're good enough. I run this channel on my own, and producing the content/merch takes up all my time, with none left over for captioning which is very time consuming. Please know that I don't say this out of laziness... if I had all the time in the world, I'd gladly sit and caption everything personally, and it's something I will consider in the future if I'm able to grow my team! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I know your reservations about having a resin printer in the loft but an extraction tube with a PC fan is all you need to blow any fumes downstairs through an open window and you'll get results 10x better than any FDM for models like this. Also some resins really don't smell as bad now, I have two going pretty much 24 hours a day in my office. More cleanup and more failures I admit, but you'd struggle to beat the quality and you wouldn't regret it.
It's great to compare FDM printers , but if you really want high quality you really need a resin SLA printer.Especially when it comes to fine small details like in OO gauge models. A couple of friend use resin printers for war game miniatures. they look amazing, the details are so sharp and crisp. I'm thinking of retiring my old Anet A8 FDM printer and buying a SLA resin printer.
Excellent comparison. I'm loving my Sovol 3d FDM printers for hobby purposes. Have you considered getting into resin? With things like the Anycubic Mono X 6Ks and Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra being well within the hobbyist's budget, the resulting resolution available is much finer. I've found that the removal of under/over extrusion, stringing, and filament "wetness" has saved my sanity for high precision parts. EDIT - Duh! You have a Resin video in your playlist!
The Ender 3 Pro is the best. I have the Ender 3 and sometimes I get a bad print. I am still learning to adjust the settings. I also have a CP-01. Martin. (Thailand)
As a total newbie to 3d printing; why produce the box body in one piece, why not print 2 sides, 2 ends, a roof and a floor and glue the results together? I would assume you get a much faster print without the altitude of the box. Thanks for a super review Sam, very informative.
I guess I'll just go with a resin 3d printer, because it can guarantee the good final result, no need to bother about ghosting or stringing or visible layer lines, and also, it can print parts that are really tiny. It might be harder to work with, or clean it ,but it still can't change my mind about the resin 3d printing.
The Creality is one of the two I was looking at. The other is the Flashforge Dreamer. Edit: After loads of reading the printer I am going to buy is the Bambu Lab P1S 3D Printer with AMS.
I bought a 3D printer 3 weeks ago - an inexpensive Voxelab Aquila C2 (currently £143 on Amazon). It's a Creality Ender 3 clone. So far I have printed and painted 7 wagons (with chassis - and added wheels and couplings), and buildings and other details for my layout, including sheds and oil tanks.
I've got a tip for you when you buy some N gauge track, get some with Code 80 rail, the taller rails work well with new N gauge trains as well as second-hand N gauge trains
I have expert knowledge in 3D CAD design and about 50 years of model building experience. I'm observing 3D printing technology since the very beginning, looking for better ways to build my creations, and no, it is not there yet. At least not for machines with less than 25K price tag.
Would you look at resin printing? I currently use a Elegoo Mars 2 pro. It s great great for starting up in resin printing. When producing small parts the detail tends to be a bit better than filament printers but not necessary the same strength depending or what it is being used for. Great video by the way
A resin printer isn't practical for me unfortunately - they're messy and produce fumes... not ideal for my cramped railway room with no ventilation unfortunately! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Sam for resin what about the organic based water washable resins. I run an elegoo mars 3 pro out in my workshop and the water washable eco resins have been a gamechanger
Interesting Sam I have an older Qidi than the imates, it has dual extruders (which can be very handy). What I like about it is it is enclosed, unlike the others as I do a lot of ABS printing. Funnily enough I think the older Qidi machine is better than the new one. I enjoy the variety of videos on your channel, keep it up :).
It's interesting to see how much better the cheap filament printers have become over the last few years....however I will stick with my prusa mini and mk3s...... they cost more but the print quality is significantly better. For small parts I would recommend one of the small resin printers.....yes it can be a little smelly and you do really need a wash and cure station, but the parts look like they are injection moulded
I have G scale (1:29) trains. I currently make some parts on my resin printers. A 380 mm freight car is too large to make on my printers. I am considering purchasing a filament Anycube Kobra MAX for the size. Do you have any experience or recommendations on large size printers?
I'm loving printing onto plain Garolite; it sticks amazingly well, is incredibly cheap, and self releases the parts when the bed cools. I laid a sheet directly on top of my glass bed, then held down the edges with painters tape.
Interesting. Not sure if Fdm will be my preference, and as I model in N gauge, smaller parts are going to be better in resin. But it’s still a great comparison test. Superb video Sam. And the first time I have seen 4 different models tested together. I think the Ender 3 might have the edge. Adjusting the settings would clean up the issues. Thanks for sharing and enjoy your printing. All the best. 🎉
I think it's awesome, but there's a lot of "ifs" at the moment... if the quality/detail is good, if each model has received the care/attention it deserves, if people actually adopt the scale! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
What does it cost in power and raw plastic to produce one of these models? Have you programmed the chassis to have tapered bearings or do you ream them out afterwards? I am just nosy. Thanks for an interesting video.
Not sure about the power or bearings, but you can get about a kilogram's worth of any traditional material (PLA, PETG, etc.) For under $25 a roll, which is a lot of prints for the money!
I have to say i was supised the the small details did better tha excepted.. i think anyone would be accepted but yest the cruality over all could be satisfying 😮
What I'd like to see is you taking on Hornby. Build a Flying Scotsman using 3D printing and put on wheels etc. Then see what the cost to build it with a 3D printer is compared to buying it. Now THAT would be a video worth seeing.
New to 3D printing of N scale rolling stock and I have heard that resin printers produce finer detail ie. better results than filament printers, yes/no ??
I was wondering how many printers you really had I figure or new it was at least 3 but now it's 4 how amazing. I still think your next stage in 3D printing would be to do American Rolling stock which you could start with USRA (United States Railroad Administration) rolling stock as that was really the closest America ever came to standardization between the railroad companies. Definitely something to consider since then you could make more American Rolling stock for future videos. Of course paint work would be another challenge but certainly doesn't have to be fancy. Whatever you decide to do I can't wait to see it in future videos.
May I suggest a challenge for your 3d printing skills? It would be the train featured in the climatic chase scene in the Wallace & Gromit film, "The Wrong Trousers".
With the Ender 3 have you tried using Cura slicer ? I had similar stringing issues when using Prusa slicer and read a post somewhere about switching to Cura fixing the problem. I switched to the current version of Cura and using the same settings as I did in Prusa slicer the stringing disappeared. My other FDM printers are Anycubic and they print fine using Prusa slicer - weird eh?
Hi Sam I’ve decided to take on a project of modifying an old Hornby Dublo castle class locomotive with new motor and details! Do you know if there is any 3D designs for cab interiors? Also I’m going to need a motor mounting bracket as well! I’ve not got a printer but I have access to one! I’ve never tried attempted anything like this or 3D printing! Any advice you could give would be hugely appreciated.
To make the tests 'equal' you would have to ensure that each machine had a brand new nozzle installed...you used machines that were given to you and/or purchased awhile back and have been used a lot (hence nozzles have a bit of wear and tear) and compared them to a machine which you were just recently given, so it had very little wear and tear on nozzle and other parts. Nozzles wear little by little as the filament passes through them and can gain imperfections in the nozzle opening which are very difficult to see without high magnification; so it is expected to see a difference in accuracy when comparing a machine with comparatively new nozzle versus an older machine. Overall the video is good at generating views/likes for your channel and for fishing for more endorsements from companies willing to send machines out to garner more exposure.
Thanks for your thoughts - I use my printers almost daily and so the nozzles are regularly changed. I do this long before the print quality starts to degrade, Thanks for watching, Sam :)
What's the best method to scan object ( in this case a diesel locomotive engine shell ) so it can be sent to the CAD software so the CAD software can tell the printer what and how to print object. I've also got Dimensional Data of a diesel locomotive I'd like to get a CAD built up using the Dimensional Data I've got. I'm new at all this but feel free to tell me how and where I need to start . . . Thanks . . . Brian
Hi Sam and mate I've already got one but I've got your I've got 3D flash printer 3 but looking for a bigger good one can you let me know the best one mate thank you
Hi Sam I have just ordered a Creality Ender 3 s1 Pro, after seeing this comparison many thanks for that, what program do I need to draw the model body work as you do ? I am new to all this so it will be a steep learning curve for me. Keep putting out this great content on your channel cheers Paul 👍
Hi Sam, very interesting video, impressive ability these machines have. Guessing your wagons are OO. I am looking to get a 3d printer to print wagons in Gauge 1. I was wondering if machines you are using would be large enough to print these. The longest would be around 52 cm. Or if you could recommend a machine that would be large enough, that would be great, thanks.
Really great video. I find the biggest issue is fitting the wheel sets where the print tends to easily break as you insert the wheels. Almost needs to be a bit more flex. Using pla to print. Any tips on how to avoid this
Excited for the new Hornby TT range? Do you think it will kick-start the hobby and bring in new hobbyists? I'm caught on this, yes takes up less space but still a lot of money...not a new gauge for pocket money entry. Very interesting though..I'm sure you will be reviewing so look forward to that :-)
looking at the prices it's definitely cheaper than NEW OO and similar to what you might pay for a big DCC ready secondhand loco or detailed coach. Wagons are more expensive than secondhand OO though. The main advantage for me is it takes up less space so I could have a more extensive layout in the same space, which in my case is limited, but not as fiddley as N gauge. Currently I have a small OO layout, I've been using to try stuff out and get some experience since getting back into the hobby during lockdown. Longterm my plan was to build a bigger layout in the loft (which needs some work first to get it ready). Ideally I'd like 2 mainlines, each with an up and down line so 4 in total, plus room for landscaping, even in the loft that was going to be tight and I'd probably have to make a bit of a compromise somewhere, but with TT that's definitely achievable. Must admit I'm tempted to go for it. Of course there's a lot less stuff for TT120 at present and no second hand market yet, except none UK stuff, but it sounds like Hornby plan to do releases on a regularly basis and Peco are also producing stuff including flexitrack and signals, plus a few kits. Oxford are doing vehicles and it now makes more sense as to why Hornby bought them out. If I invested in a 3D printer and perhaps a cricut machine like Everard Junction I could make some stuff too. I suspect TT will mainly appeal to new starters, people like me who are relatively recently back into the hobby and haven't yet built an extensive OO layout and those who were thinking of changing to N gauge. Hornby the an advantage of a current monopoly on any UK market and a big head-start on any rivals who want to go down that road too, but can also produce stuff for the rest of the world where TT120 is already fairly popular giving them a much bigger potential market than OO. By keeping it online they're also cutting out the model shops. I'm not sure how I feel about that, but can see the advantages to Hornby. It also seems clear they want to keep prices down compared to new OO, at least for the moment, to encourage people to go for it.
Probably not what you want to hear, but could you look at a 'posh' 3D printer? What you have created is very impressive, but I'd like to see what a high-end 'domestic' printer can do - sanding all the flat areas actually flat isn't a prospect that encourages me. I like spending other peoples money for them :-)
For the money, the magician x is my choice Currently using a Flashforge (purchased because of your original video) and I can definitely see some room for improvement someday
I've had my eye on IDEX printers lately. Sovol seems to be incredibly capable of cloning common printers, and my SV03 has performed admirably for the few months I've had it; I'm very tempted to get an SV04 to start IDEX printing.
I sent you an email of some N gauge coaches that I tried to send you before, also I tried to send you some N gauge Bachmann EZ track, did you want me to try and send the track or did you want to buy your own, and if you decide to buy your own N gauge track, get some with Code 80 rail, the taller rails work well with new N gauge trains as well as second-hand N gauge trains
I like how all 4 of the 3d printers can do better than heljan at producing couplings 😂
Lol
True
You might as well start collecting 3D printers at this rate Sam, four of them though can be useful if you have multiple things to print at the same time.
haha I know right... might need a warehouse to store them in ;)
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
You should have a shelf with all the printers, and maybe another attic for your printer layout.
Sam, you need to go Resin based... the detail on those would blow any FDM printer out of the water!
Excellent comparison. To the uninitiated, it seems there's quite a learning curve with these 3D printers which is daunting but the results make it look like it's worth the effort!
Good morning Sam, I have an Ender 3V2 which I use to create my own Neverwazzer items and spare parts for older railway items which cannot be sourced elsewhere. Watching some of the regular 3D contribitors on TH-cam [Chep, Makers Muse etc] they all make one valid point which bears repeating. These hobby machines still seem to be aimed at the people who whom the main interest is tinkering with the printing process its self rather than the finished item. There is no machine like the 2D paper printer where you have a few buttons and your documents just come out with out any drama, Some days I seem to spend half on my time "dialing" in the machine to get the results I want without stringing or gaps or blobs etc. I, like you, recommend a 3D printer as part of the model rail enthusiasts tool kit but they currently all seem to be along way off just plug and play.
I think you can get a pretty plug and play experience with something not atrocious in price like a Prusa mk4 800 usd or a bambu p1s or a1 mini 700 and 300 respectively so definitely not cheap but good reliability at a decent price not much more than a smartphone or for the bambu mini a few locos
Of course, it's a year later, but Bambu's A1 and A1 Mini are pretty close to "plug and play" at surprisingly low prices. And with both available with the multi-color print capabilities provided by the AMS Lite, you can print multicolor items in one job (body versus doors versus ladders ...).
Very interesting test, and thank you for fulfilling our immediate thought of applying a primer since it exposes all imperfections spot on. What this tells us is that 3D printing seems to be excessively time consuming: finding best settings, redoing miss prints, initial monitoring the process in person to build up enough confidence that it can go well ‘unmonitored’. It is said that 3D printing itself is a time consuming activity on its own which can quickly sideline a principle hobby. Model trains are your daily work as we’ve understood it, but for hobbyists with only so much time available, our question would go towards what to expect on time consumption. Resin printing is a different story but miss printing and warping are recurring issues there as well. We really would like to see a total review of the entire learning curve and the total process of 3D printing including all finicky shenanigans. That would be awesome Sam.
Looking at all of these, I would be interested in seeing one wagon with each printer contributing the best part/set of parts they can each make
I have both an elegoo mars 2 mono and an ender 3 v2, and for anything miniature related, resin has the detail and smooth texture that is what I'm looking for. FDM prints are great for larger pieces, like structures, but will require filling and sanding for a good finish. If you haven't already, I would strongly recommend checking out a resin printer!
I second this comment. I own a Elegoo Mars Pro 2. I don’t print ‘train stuff’ I only print 28mm miniatures for playing Dungeons & Dragons. Absolutely fantastic detail for small models. I imagine that a resin printer would be perfect for your use too. Save the FDM printers for the larger houses etc…
I know this is 10 months after the comment but i must add resin can be dangerous and should not be undertaken by beginners. Also FDM prints can use as small ass 0.1mm layer thickness which has smooth texture like resin. If you're a beginner --> FDM If you're a hobbyist but dont make too small parts --> FDM (but with lower layer thickness) Hobbyist who likes detail and ISN'T beginner--> SLA (you need to be sure before switching)
Dont know if this is helpful but i hope i help someone!
Might give resin a try, the detail is phenomenal compared to fdm, could use fdm to print the undercarriage and resin for the body. Great video as always.
I asked Sam why he didn't have a resin printer and he put it down to space and the need for fume extraction.
Ok didn't realize that, I know the Elegoo Mars has an activated carbon filter built right in
@@louiel8711 I'd make sure you've got a somewhat well ventilated room to keep it in, even with activated charcoal you'll still get odors/fumes that you wouldnt want in a bedroom or something
@@manfail7469 i usually run mine in the kitchen by the vent hood which blows outside
Sam,
Most excellent video comparison. I am assuming that another difference between them might be the number of hours one would then need to “clean up” each of the overall models to make them completely serviceable and finished to a similar state for use on a layout.
Always interesting to see your tests on hardware outside the train models. Your methodology is clean, reliable and well thought-out.
So, we can see, as you said, that there is no clear winner around de 400-500 € mark for 3D printers. Next test, a resin one ? I am more interested by this technology due to its better results overall.
Interesting video Sam I don’t often comment on your channel but do follow you and your independent reviews have been a great help to me over the years the fact you obtain your own model s and don’t rely on freebies
from manufacturers only makes the reviews more impressive good on you keep up the good work cheers al 🤗🚂👍😀
The result is excelent for some of the printers... but... and i know loads of people have taken this up prior. Isn´t a Resin printer far superior in a case where both surface finish, details are the most important, and i would guess, the part will be painted anyway?
I bet some resin printer have sufficent resolution to print spring buffer.
Interesting video. It would be helpful to know the settings you used for each printer, might help solve some issues people like me have had in the past
That's far too complex a question. 3D printer profiles vary depending on the filament being used.
@@skelligringphotographyandw7012 they vary a bit but more info will always be more helpful. Things like layer height, print speed, etc can at the very least give people a base line to troubleshoot from.
Hi Sam. I have got a 3D printer. So far I have only used it to produce lineside fences. This is because the Hornby ones (R537) had disintegrated! There is a considerable cost saving in 3D printing your lineside fences. What I found, however, was that producing a fence to exactly match the Hornby one was a challenge! But I did succeed in doing it. So now I have got a challenge for you - can you make a Hornby lineside fence? Which printer produces the best results? Over to you.
Amazing and so interesting to see. You ever thought about maybe doing lazer cutter stuff?
Hornby announced new TT120 range . Today.
Hi Sam Watched a number of your vids so far and you do an awesome job :) looking at building a layout next year when we finish our travels and trying to do it on a budget to keep the wife happy LOL I'm really interested in the 3D stuff as I think it can save a lot of money and get a lot of rolling stock going on the track, I've been looking at the creality max it seems to have some good reviews anyway love your work :)
Cheers Mark
You should try a resin printer next and see how fine you can make the details and compare it to your best printer.
Love the videos! I'd love to see one on how a Sams Trains video gets made. What is the inspiration for the channel? do you use scripts and takes? What plans do you have for the future of the channel?
Hi Sam a very informative video would like to know your settings for each machine i think ender 3 pro looks the best to me and the 4th one too great video sam keep them coming
Hey Sam, your videos are great and very informative. Have you ever considered adding closed captions? They can really be a big help for people who have hearing problems or trouble understanding spoken words.
Cheers from Ohio, and keep up the good work. Dry rails and good running!
Thank you so much! I do enable the auto-generated closed captions, I know they're not 100% accurate all of the time, but I hope they're good enough. I run this channel on my own, and producing the content/merch takes up all my time, with none left over for captioning which is very time consuming. Please know that I don't say this out of laziness... if I had all the time in the world, I'd gladly sit and caption everything personally, and it's something I will consider in the future if I'm able to grow my team!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains The present captions are pretty good .
I've literally just got a standard Ender 3 S1 non pro. Loving it so far.
Awesome! Mine is creating the neatest looking models of all my machines!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains sorry I couldn't talk hurricane Ian hit usa on me too so sorry 😔
I know your reservations about having a resin printer in the loft but an extraction tube with a PC fan is all you need to blow any fumes downstairs through an open window and you'll get results 10x better than any FDM for models like this.
Also some resins really don't smell as bad now, I have two going pretty much 24 hours a day in my office. More cleanup and more failures I admit, but you'd struggle to beat the quality and you wouldn't regret it.
It's great to compare FDM printers , but if you really want high quality you really need a resin SLA printer.Especially when it comes to fine small details like in OO gauge models. A couple of friend use resin printers for war game miniatures.
they look amazing, the details are so sharp and crisp.
I'm thinking of retiring my old Anet A8 FDM printer and buying a SLA resin printer.
Underextrusion is commonly caused by a loose Bowden tube, the claws on the ends could be worn out
Excellent comparison. I'm loving my Sovol 3d FDM printers for hobby purposes. Have you considered getting into resin? With things like the Anycubic Mono X 6Ks and Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra being well within the hobbyist's budget, the resulting resolution available is much finer. I've found that the removal of under/over extrusion, stringing, and filament "wetness" has saved my sanity for high precision parts.
EDIT - Duh! You have a Resin video in your playlist!
Hey Sam I'll be buying o a 3D printer soon so I can make some RWS Faces, so I'll keep you updated
Cheers Jasper & Willow
That sounds awesome - you might want to try a resin one for those, as it's better for detail!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
The Ender 3 Pro is the best. I have the Ender 3 and sometimes I get a bad print. I am still learning to adjust the settings. I also have a CP-01. Martin. (Thailand)
Very good - all you need now - are the wheels - thought you might do a pulling test with them - but you didn't 😐🚂🚂🚂
As a total newbie to 3d printing; why produce the box body in one piece, why not print 2 sides, 2 ends, a roof and a floor and glue the results together? I would assume you get a much faster print without the altitude of the box. Thanks for a super review Sam, very informative.
I guess I'll just go with a resin 3d printer, because it can guarantee the good final result, no need to bother about ghosting or stringing or visible layer lines, and also, it can print parts that are really tiny. It might be harder to work with, or clean it ,but it still can't change my mind about the resin 3d printing.
Thanks for another great video. I am finishing another room where my 3D printers will be. Cheers.
The Creality is one of the two I was looking at. The other is the Flashforge Dreamer. Edit: After loads of reading the printer I am going to buy is the Bambu Lab P1S 3D Printer with AMS.
Love the video Sam thanks for sharing and liked DD.
That's the great part about the hobby sharing ideas and learning new ideas from other people to improve our Channel.
I bought a 3D printer 3 weeks ago - an inexpensive Voxelab Aquila C2 (currently £143 on Amazon). It's a Creality Ender 3 clone. So far I have printed and painted 7 wagons (with chassis - and added wheels and couplings), and buildings and other details for my layout, including sheds and oil tanks.
That's fantastic - glad to hear it's working well for you!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Have you considered selling your STL files? I would buy them. :)
Hmm.... That thumbnail seems very familiar...
Really
hahah!
I've got a tip for you when you buy some N gauge track, get some with Code 80 rail, the taller rails work well with new N gauge trains as well as second-hand N gauge trains
Thanks a lot for this Robert, appreciate it!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I have expert knowledge in 3D CAD design and about 50 years of model building experience. I'm observing 3D printing technology since the very beginning, looking for better ways to build my creations, and no, it is not there yet. At least not for machines with less than 25K price tag.
Would you look at resin printing? I currently use a Elegoo Mars 2 pro. It s great great for starting up in resin printing. When producing small parts the detail tends to be a bit better than filament printers but not necessary the same strength depending or what it is being used for. Great video by the way
A resin printer isn't practical for me unfortunately - they're messy and produce fumes... not ideal for my cramped railway room with no ventilation unfortunately!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Sam for resin what about the organic based water washable resins. I run an elegoo mars 3 pro out in my workshop and the water washable eco resins have been a gamechanger
Interesting Sam I have an older Qidi than the imates, it has dual extruders (which can be very handy). What I like about it is it is enclosed, unlike the others as I do a lot of ABS printing. Funnily enough I think the older Qidi machine is better than the new one. I enjoy the variety of videos on your channel, keep it up :).
It's interesting to see how much better the cheap filament printers have become over the last few years....however I will stick with my prusa mini and mk3s...... they cost more but the print quality is significantly better.
For small parts I would recommend one of the small resin printers.....yes it can be a little smelly and you do really need a wash and cure station, but the parts look like they are injection moulded
I have G scale (1:29) trains. I currently make some parts on my resin printers. A 380 mm freight car is too large to make on my printers. I am considering purchasing a filament Anycube Kobra MAX for the size. Do you have any experience or recommendations on large size printers?
I'm loving printing onto plain Garolite; it sticks amazingly well, is incredibly cheap, and self releases the parts when the bed cools. I laid a sheet directly on top of my glass bed, then held down the edges with painters tape.
Hi Sam.
I was expecting a product announcement/review on hornbys new TT gauge 🙊
haha it was too sudden unfortunately!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains anytime brother ❤
Interesting. Not sure if Fdm will be my preference, and as I model in N gauge, smaller parts are going to be better in resin. But it’s still a great comparison test. Superb video Sam. And the first time I have seen 4 different models tested together. I think the Ender 3 might have the edge. Adjusting the settings would clean up the issues. Thanks for sharing and enjoy your printing. All the best. 🎉
Heyo Sam, what do you think about Hornby’s new gauge? Personally I think it’s cool but looks like N gauge
Well, in Britian, they call HO OO, so they should call N NO, lol.
I think it's awesome, but there's a lot of "ifs" at the moment... if the quality/detail is good, if each model has received the care/attention it deserves, if people actually adopt the scale!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Excellent and very informative video and give’s a lot to think about in choosing the best printer for the job.
Hola buenas tardes sam excelente video muy bueno el modelo 3d abrazo grande
Thanks a lot for your comment Miguel! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Great review Sam. The things that hold the axle boxes are called W irons. Might as well contribute to railway vocab.
What does it cost in power and raw plastic to produce one of these models? Have you programmed the chassis to have tapered bearings or do you ream them out afterwards? I am just nosy. Thanks for an interesting video.
Not sure about the power or bearings, but you can get about a kilogram's worth of any traditional material (PLA, PETG, etc.) For under $25 a roll, which is a lot of prints for the money!
I have to say i was supised the the small details did better tha excepted.. i think anyone would be accepted but yest the cruality over all could be satisfying 😮
Great job Sam. Look forward to seeing them on the track
What I'd like to see is you taking on Hornby. Build a Flying Scotsman using 3D printing and put on wheels etc. Then see what the cost to build it with a 3D printer is compared to buying it. Now THAT would be a video worth seeing.
New to 3D printing of N scale rolling stock and I have heard that resin printers produce finer detail ie. better results than filament printers, yes/no ??
Yes absolutely - check out my video on resin printing if you're interested!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
what software do you use? Is it hard to learn? A video about the software would be great. Nice video thanks.
Different colours of the same brand of filament can vary wildly.
Hi again Sam I got my Xbox fixed 🎉love your content keep going ❤
Ahh fantastic - glad to hear you're up and running again! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I was wondering how many printers you really had I figure or new it was at least 3 but now it's 4 how amazing. I still think your next stage in 3D printing would be to do American Rolling stock which you could start with USRA (United States Railroad Administration) rolling stock as that was really the closest America ever came to standardization between the railroad companies. Definitely something to consider since then you could make more American Rolling stock for future videos. Of course paint work would be another challenge but certainly doesn't have to be fancy. Whatever you decide to do I can't wait to see it in future videos.
Impresive quality, but one resin printer can do more accurate details. When will you make a test Resin vs FDM?
Have you ever tried outsourcring to a service? It might be another option for people who can't afford to buy their own printer.
Sam you need to make an Ivor the Engine loco
Great idea! :D
@@SamsTrains seen someone make one from an old Ivor moneybox but i'm sure you could do an awesome job
can you please do another collection video i really enjoy them
Nice video Sam keep up the good work
Thank you! :D
May I suggest a challenge for your 3d printing skills? It would be the train featured in the climatic chase scene in the Wallace & Gromit film, "The Wrong Trousers".
With the Ender 3 have you tried using Cura slicer ?
I had similar stringing issues when using Prusa slicer and read a post somewhere about switching to Cura fixing the problem.
I switched to the current version of Cura and using the same settings as I did in Prusa slicer the stringing disappeared.
My other FDM printers are Anycubic and they print fine using Prusa slicer - weird eh?
Awesome video today Sam really interesting what different 3D printers can do
Thanks James, glad you think so! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Would you recommend any of the printers for producing n gauge rolling stock?
Your 3d model work looks very good 👍
Thanks Sam! :D
Hi Sam I’ve decided to take on a project of modifying an old Hornby Dublo castle class locomotive with new motor and details! Do you know if there is any 3D designs for cab interiors? Also I’m going to need a motor mounting bracket as well! I’ve not got a printer but I have access to one! I’ve never tried attempted anything like this or 3D printing! Any advice you could give would be hugely appreciated.
To make the tests 'equal' you would have to ensure that each machine had a brand new nozzle installed...you used machines that were given to you and/or purchased awhile back and have been used a lot (hence nozzles have a bit of wear and tear) and compared them to a machine which you were just recently given, so it had very little wear and tear on nozzle and other parts. Nozzles wear little by little as the filament passes through them and can gain imperfections in the nozzle opening which are very difficult to see without high magnification; so it is expected to see a difference in accuracy when comparing a machine with comparatively new nozzle versus an older machine. Overall the video is good at generating views/likes for your channel and for fishing for more endorsements from companies willing to send machines out to garner more exposure.
Thanks for your thoughts - I use my printers almost daily and so the nozzles are regularly changed. I do this long before the print quality starts to degrade,
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Time for you to get a resin printer, and add that to the comparison. :)
What's the best method to scan object ( in this case a diesel locomotive engine shell ) so it can be sent to the CAD software so the CAD software can tell the printer what and how to print object. I've also got Dimensional Data of a diesel locomotive I'd like to get a CAD built up using the Dimensional Data I've got. I'm new at all this but feel free to tell me how and where I need to start . . . Thanks . . . Brian
Interesting to see the printers go against each other, I guess your amassing quite a collection of printers now
Thanks David! Yes up to 4 now, got rid of a couple due to space!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
For this kind of work a resin SLA printer yields far superior results.
Sam where do you get the files to use with a 3-D printer are they proprietary I would like to print some pArts
Hi Sam and mate I've already got one but I've got your I've got 3D flash printer 3 but looking for a bigger good one can you let me know the best one mate thank you
Hi Sam I have just ordered a Creality Ender 3 s1 Pro, after seeing this comparison many thanks for that, what program do I need to draw the model body work as you do ? I am new to all this so it will be a steep learning curve for me.
Keep putting out this great content on your channel cheers Paul 👍
What’s your next 3d printer project are you going to do a body for the Hornby 0-4-0 chassis
The one on the right seemed to be the best. I think it was the Mingda Max.
Yes that is a great machine - probably the best all-rounder!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hello Sam 👋. I was just wondering what you think about Hornby's new TT Scale (1/120) range coming out soon?
Hi Sam, very interesting video, impressive ability these machines have. Guessing your wagons are OO. I am looking to get a 3d printer to print wagons in Gauge 1. I was wondering if machines you are using would be large enough to print these. The longest would be around 52 cm. Or if you could recommend a machine that would be large enough, that would be great, thanks.
I am considering getting one to make my own bridges etc. The new TT120 will need more scale sized models. Which would you recommend.
Well having now got the ENDER 3 V3. I am struggling how to use the software to design my own items.
Really great video. I find the biggest issue is fitting the wheel sets where the print tends to easily break as you insert the wheels. Almost needs to be a bit more flex. Using pla to print. Any tips on how to avoid this
The easiest solution for this is to use something other than pla
good vid as always sam keep up the good vids thanks lee
Thanks very much lee!
That is so awesome, sam!
Thanks Justin! :D
3d printers still seem to be very choppy. At least the home machines do. But still very good tech.
Very nice Sam :)
How do you minimise the layering/lined effect from the printer? Hope you understand what I mean Sam!
Where did you get the model though? And how do I get ahold of one?
Excited for the new Hornby TT range? Do you think it will kick-start the hobby and bring in new hobbyists?
I'm caught on this, yes takes up less space but still a lot of money...not a new gauge for pocket money entry.
Very interesting though..I'm sure you will be reviewing so look forward to that :-)
looking at the prices it's definitely cheaper than NEW OO and similar to what you might pay for a big DCC ready secondhand loco or detailed coach. Wagons are more expensive than secondhand OO though.
The main advantage for me is it takes up less space so I could have a more extensive layout in the same space, which in my case is limited, but not as fiddley as N gauge.
Currently I have a small OO layout, I've been using to try stuff out and get some experience since getting back into the hobby during lockdown. Longterm my plan was to build a bigger layout in the loft (which needs some work first to get it ready). Ideally I'd like 2 mainlines, each with an up and down line so 4 in total, plus room for landscaping, even in the loft that was going to be tight and I'd probably have to make a bit of a compromise somewhere, but with TT that's definitely achievable.
Must admit I'm tempted to go for it. Of course there's a lot less stuff for TT120 at present and no second hand market yet, except none UK stuff, but it sounds like Hornby plan to do releases on a regularly basis and Peco are also producing stuff including flexitrack and signals, plus a few kits. Oxford are doing vehicles and it now makes more sense as to why Hornby bought them out.
If I invested in a 3D printer and perhaps a cricut machine like Everard Junction I could make some stuff too.
I suspect TT will mainly appeal to new starters, people like me who are relatively recently back into the hobby and haven't yet built an extensive OO layout and those who were thinking of changing to N gauge.
Hornby the an advantage of a current monopoly on any UK market and a big head-start on any rivals who want to go down that road too, but can also produce stuff for the rest of the world where TT120 is already fairly popular giving them a much bigger potential market than OO. By keeping it online they're also cutting out the model shops. I'm not sure how I feel about that, but can see the advantages to Hornby.
It also seems clear they want to keep prices down compared to new OO, at least for the moment, to encourage people to go for it.
Heljan announced new TT120 first, Hornby jumped on band wagon ,
Bachmann next???.let's hope hornby don't bodge it up.rename Triang TT.120.
Probably not what you want to hear, but could you look at a 'posh' 3D printer? What you have created is very impressive, but I'd like to see what a high-end 'domestic' printer can do - sanding all the flat areas actually flat isn't a prospect that encourages me. I like spending other peoples money for them :-)
haha maybe - that would be fun to try one day!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Thank you Sam. Very informative and I will definitely look at this video again if I decide to buy a 3D printer. It definitely would be cool. Thanks!
I'd vote the ender.
For the money, the magician x is my choice
Currently using a Flashforge (purchased because of your original video) and I can definitely see some room for improvement someday
I've had my eye on IDEX printers lately. Sovol seems to be incredibly capable of cloning common printers, and my SV03 has performed admirably for the few months I've had it; I'm very tempted to get an SV04 to start IDEX printing.
How does the flash forge compare to these?
Awesome video Sam's trains
Thanks Brian! :D
@@SamsTrains you're welcome my dear friend
I sent you an email of some N gauge coaches that I tried to send you before, also I tried to send you some N gauge Bachmann EZ track, did you want me to try and send the track or did you want to buy your own, and if you decide to buy your own N gauge track, get some with Code 80 rail, the taller rails work well with new N gauge trains as well as second-hand N gauge trains
What primer spray did you use Sam?
Ender 3