I've had a few of those regulators and tested them.... None of them I've had ever actually worked properly at lowering the fuel pressure they were all cheap junk. I just switched to a smaller lawnmower pulse pump and never had a problem again.
After taking them apart to see how they work, I see the problem is they control pressure after the valve not before the valve, so if they needle can't handle a couple of psi, they regulator will never close.
You could probably just use a t fitting from the pump output and have one end go to the carb and one end back into the top of the tank and that should get plenty of fuel supply at very low pressure.
Hey there, if you haven't solved this problem, there are three ways to solve the carb over flow. A) buy/make a bigger needle jet and seat to control the extra pressure from the pulse pump. B) control the fuel flow, which you tried to do. But you're just over thinking it. Just use a 1/8 needle or ball valve to control flow. Turn the ends smaller to fit a 1/4" id hose. C) control the pulse, this is the simplest and my go to method. I have machined brass pills to fit inside the hose that has different sized holes drilled in it to restrict the pulse. To save you time and guess work, a 2mm restrictor works most of the time. If you need more fuel, just drill out that hole bigger or make another one that has a bigger ID. Hope this helps.
I remember a couple years back I had a flat slide Mikuni that I had to change to a smaller needle and seat version to run a fuel pump because it was setup for gravity feed originally had similar problems at first not sure if your carb has that part availability. Cheers
My project are on hold this weekend as I've got to finish the clutch on my civic si get it back together i can't afford to keep driving My truck everyday the 6.0 diesel is thirsty all the time
I usually ride a motorcycle(65mpg) but the 4runner is my wife's and she is using our yard truck(300,000 mile Mazda) so I need to get this thing back on the road. I thought about doing it as a video, but it would just be a couple of hours of me taking everything boulted to the motor off.
@@WhatIsTheWheel them Mazda aka Ford ranger are tanks they don't ever die i have a 94 xcab 4x4 5 speed with 4.0 in it I had to put a clutch in it at 520k we still use it at the farm it rusted completely out the odometer stopped working years ago along with speedometer in summer time I jump a wire across to get ac to kick on we use it to haul fencing stuff I did break down a few years ago put a nice set of 31 Mud tires on it and welded the rear Def
This one is brand new. I did have to set the float height, but I never pulled the needle out. I am going to make sure there is no trash in the carb. I had that happen with a Weber downdraft.
@@WhatIsTheWheel I like what you did anyways, much simpler really. But yeah just a thought. I figured I’d throw that out there for future reference. Good work 👍🏼
I just picked up a go kart for my son and it has the same Kupp/Robron steering wheel as yours. Do you know how those are mounted to the steering shaft and how easy is it to swap it for a more traditional kart wheel?
Mine had a single bolt that went through the steering wheel and the shaft. I would take that out , let it soak with penetrating oil, then try to tap the wheel off. If you don't care about the wheel you could drill out the plastic center and drive the shaft out with a punch while someone pulls the wheel. You may have to get a new shaft if the end is not splined, most of the steering hubs are splined. When you look for a wheel check out Speedway Motors, they have some cool stuff www.speedwaymotors.com/Search?query=steering%20wheels
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I've had a few of those regulators and tested them.... None of them I've had ever actually worked properly at lowering the fuel pressure they were all cheap junk. I just switched to a smaller lawnmower pulse pump and never had a problem again.
After taking them apart to see how they work, I see the problem is they control pressure after the valve not before the valve, so if they needle can't handle a couple of psi, they regulator will never close.
You'll get those bugs worked out. I feel for ya on the water pump R&R. They bury those things deep!
It appears Toyota never saw a small block Chevy
You could probably just use a t fitting from the pump output and have one end go to the carb and one end back into the top of the tank and that should get plenty of fuel supply at very low pressure.
Thanks, that is my plan. The T fittings showed up tonight.
Hey there, if you haven't solved this problem, there are three ways to solve the carb over flow.
A) buy/make a bigger needle jet and seat to control the extra pressure from the pulse pump.
B) control the fuel flow, which you tried to do. But you're just over thinking it. Just use a 1/8 needle or ball valve to control flow. Turn the ends smaller to fit a 1/4" id hose.
C) control the pulse, this is the simplest and my go to method. I have machined brass pills to fit inside the hose that has different sized holes drilled in it to restrict the pulse. To save you time and guess work, a 2mm restrictor works most of the time. If you need more fuel, just drill out that hole bigger or make another one that has a bigger ID. Hope this helps.
I remember a couple years back I had a flat slide Mikuni that I had to change to a smaller needle and seat version to run a fuel pump because it was setup for gravity feed originally had similar problems at first not sure if your carb has that part availability. Cheers
My project are on hold this weekend as I've got to finish the clutch on my civic si get it back together i can't afford to keep driving My truck everyday the 6.0 diesel is thirsty all the time
I usually ride a motorcycle(65mpg) but the 4runner is my wife's and she is using our yard truck(300,000 mile Mazda) so I need to get this thing back on the road. I thought about doing it as a video, but it would just be a couple of hours of me taking everything boulted to the motor off.
@@WhatIsTheWheel them Mazda aka Ford ranger are tanks they don't ever die i have a 94 xcab 4x4 5 speed with 4.0 in it I had to put a clutch in it at 520k we still use it at the farm it rusted completely out the odometer stopped working years ago along with speedometer in summer time I jump a wire across to get ac to kick on we use it to haul fencing stuff I did break down a few years ago put a nice set of 31 Mud tires on it and welded the rear Def
Try putting a new carburetor on there
This one is brand new. I did have to set the float height, but I never pulled the needle out. I am going to make sure there is no trash in the carb. I had that happen with a Weber downdraft.
You ever think of regulating the pulse pressure before it hits the pump?
I didn't, although I could have made a Grainger valve with a bleed, that would have, probably, worked.
@@WhatIsTheWheel I like what you did anyways, much simpler really. But yeah just a thought. I figured I’d throw that out there for future reference. Good work 👍🏼
I just picked up a go kart for my son and it has the same Kupp/Robron steering wheel as yours. Do you know how those are mounted to the steering shaft and how easy is it to swap it for a more traditional kart wheel?
Mine was so rusty I had to cut the shaft. I still have it hanging on the wall, I'll take a look at it and let you know how I think it comes off.
Mine had a single bolt that went through the steering wheel and the shaft. I would take that out , let it soak with penetrating oil, then try to tap the wheel off. If you don't care about the wheel you could drill out the plastic center and drive the shaft out with a punch while someone pulls the wheel.
You may have to get a new shaft if the end is not splined, most of the steering hubs are splined.
When you look for a wheel check out Speedway Motors, they have some cool stuff
www.speedwaymotors.com/Search?query=steering%20wheels