Please read the Description for further help and links. :) I would also quickly like to add some extra stuff here too. A Lot of printer problems I have seen, seems to come from people not knowing on how to level their printers and getting the right Z Offset (I was one of those people). This video should hopefully help people visually see what they must do to get a better printing result. As mentioned and as you can see with my channel, I am new to this. I have also had problems like my extruder getting jammed resulting in contacting support. Here are some notes I wish I added in my video, needed a quick correct or explanation: - Don't overly tighten your belts! It will cause wear and tear or worse - snapping!! - When I said Z-Wobble, I actually meant Z-Binding which Geek Detour mentions in his video (linked in description). - I tried to loosen the feet but it was about to fall off. I could work on the other feet by tightening them to match the 1 odd foot, which I will do one day. But for now it is working fine. - Possible reason why my printer went to -1.38. I might've done something to change the printer height when experimenting. I don't recall and I'm pretty sure I didn't do any changes that involved setting the printer at that setting, but that is my best guess lol. I'll try to help find support for you on any issue you might have but I would suggest that you check out those subreddits or discord to see if you can find similar issues, if not don't be scared to ask for help. Also remember the community and support team are there to help and are human. Don't be horrible. Note that if you do need further help, that is on your own risk and testing!! Please like and subscribe
This video alone should be reason enough for god to let you through those pearly gates. I bought this printer 5 months ago, and just gave up on it because the levelling was pissing me off. Thank you very much. also, for the regular neptune 4, heres the screw code : [screws_tilt_adjust] screw1_name: front left screw screw1: 55,10 screw2_name: rear left screw screw2: 55,180 screw3_name: rear right screw screw3: 225,180 screw4_name: front right screw screw4: 225,10 horizontal_move_z: 10 speed: 200 screw_thread: CW-M4 # Use CW for Clockwise and CCW for Counter Clockwise
The actual frame being level with the earth or your table doesn't matter too much. You could attach it to a wall and it should still print sideways, although some of the mechanical parts will experience more wear than usual. Good video overall though.
Yeah, I've seen a video of someone trying different tables after people mentioning on how wobbly his table was, then I think he hung it on a rope or something and still got pretty good results. The purpose of mentioning is to remove any controllable errors. I know it's a minor thing and the odds are very very slim for problems with a crooked printer besides from what you listed, which is why I also showed that I used tissues to lift my printer (It was also very annoying that it shook my desk making a lot of noise and creating a challenge when working or gaming lol). Also thank you :)
I’m not too sure with paper as I couldn’t ever tell, but a good rule of thumb with a feeler gauge is to get as close as possible until you feel some grip. If you notice the printer head move (which I found using a camera helps with that) then you are too low, if you are hardly feeling any resistance, go a little lower. Try printing at this point, if it’s not working out, try printing at a slight bit higher or lower by 0.01. There is probably a way to use Klipper to move the print head up over a certain point when doing a ‘bed level test print’ but I haven’t explored Klipper enough to figure out that trick yet. ^ You could check some of the Reddit pages to see if anyone has a way to do that. Hope this somewhat helps? 😊
I've had nothing but trouble trying to level my neptune 4 Plus, its some sort of dark art. I will try what you suggest and that button in Orca will be a game changer, thank you
@@imnotryuu6391 Hi, so from my experience I had an issue where filament did get stuck in the extruder. Elegoo did send out a new one for me, I haven’t really heard of anyone having issues like what I had, so it’s probably a rare issue. Besides that the printer has been alright. Since it is a lower end costing printer you do need to be hands on to tune it. There’s always things they could’ve done to make it more user friendly but there’s loads of help online. I personally use Orca Slicer as I find that easier to work with imo. Recently I’ve used ChatGPT to help dumb things down for myself too to make it more understandable.
Thank you for the video. I am getting the !! Move out of range: -5.000 30.000 10.000 [0.000] when I try to use the "screw tilt adjust." How can I fix this issue? Neptune 4 Max
Sorry for the late response, I don't get notified for all my comments - did you manage to sort it out? If not, one thing that helped me get the location was using Fluidd/Klipper to manually move the printer into position where the screws were, note down the location somewhere, then when I went to add Screw Tilt Adjust I put in those coordinates.
Just got a Neptune 4 last week and this is super helpful! As for the bed mesh and IP address - is this possible without the printer being connected directly to internet?
I believe there is stone information wrong in this video. You can adjust the z offset in fluidd, BUT you have to issue a SAVE_CONFIG afterwards. The handheld does it too. I use the paper method for an initial z offset and then start a print of a lage rectangle (at least 100x50mm) with info angle 0°. Use an android app or the handheld to live afjust the z offset while printing that rectangle and stop the print if it looks fine. Save your settings, like described before in the console and you are ready to go. For petg i have to wait at least 45min to get 80°C stable. You can verify that yourself by: 1. Home 2. Set bed and extruder temps (e.g. 80 and 100) 3. Run Scre tilt adjustment 4. Repeat 3 until values are stable over 5-10 min and write down the time till the first stable run.
im a little lost on what you mean by tightening the bed on the opposite side? So if the eccentric nut is on the right i should tighten the bed screw on the left?
@@MasnMakes So if you notice the left wheels are loose, you need to tighten the right wheels up since the right wheels have the eccentric nuts. The only wheel on the left side that has an eccentric nut is the middle one. If the left is tight, loosen it via the right too btw. Hope this made sense and cleared that part up for you?
im confused about the leveling. because when I put the paper in and adjust the bed so that I barely feel traction, the head drags and scratches previous layers.
@@jb1139 could be that the level isn’t being saved. Make sure the bed is manually levelled first and is as flat as you possibly can get it. What I have done to some issues was Z-Offset > Auto Level > Z-Offset. Always finish with a Z level. But secondly that is partially why I couldn’t do the paper method. When I did the paper method I actually caused minor scratching on the print bed. Which is why I’d highly recommend a feeler guard as you can feel more and work from there. After you can do some bed level tests to work on the Z more. Hope this helps
So before recently updating the firmware your process worked with saving the z offset, now after updating it isn’t being saved and it’s consistently far. How do I get it to be saved ?
@@shahsaa1 after updating you need to redo you auto level again. Next make sure you’ve updated both the printer and the handheld device as they have separate updates last I recall. Personally I have heard that if your machine is all good from the box, you shouldn’t really update it. I don’t update mine since the time I got mine, I heard many issues with the update. That’s long gone now I would assume though. If you tampered with the Z offset on the Klipper software, it can cause miss reading (I did this once and it dug into my bed, refusing to go into the level settings) to solve this there will be an option listed as Z-Offset: 0.00 (or something else) if that doesn’t have a # in front of it then it’s reading that code compared to the saved offset. Make it so it says #Z-Offset: 0.00 turning it into a comment removing it as a function. Besides that you’ll either have to join the discord of Elegoo or email support as it could be a software fault. They should hopefully help reset you back to a previous version - hopefully.
When using the feeler gauge, should I stop as soon as the nozzle touches the gauge? Also, when doing calibrate in the tune section the bed mesh looks almost perfect, but after doing the automatic with the handheld the entire bed mesh appears lower except for one side which is way higher. Any tips?
feeler gauge - I personally do it so once I feel the nozzle a little go down once or twice. This gives me a grippier feel but not too low. If it doesn't work out you can always print a bed test. If you want to really put it to the test there are methods where you can get the printer to do a bed test starting from low and work it's way up. Bed Mesh - I had a weird issue with one of the corners being incorrect. Which is why I start my screw tilt in the middle of my printer. Make sure the bed visual settings is set correct ie Mesh matrix, color scale 0.2 box scale 2.0. It could be flat enough that any slight imperfection is showing red, so check to see how high the highest point is to the lowest point as long as you Variance is within 0.2. Next, just like in my video, try and loosen the 2 screws to see if that changes anything. You could also try to find which part of your bed is the middle ground and use that as your starting point for the Screw_Tilt_adjust. Last method that I can think of without being able to see it, not ideal, but using foil tape to help lift the side that is currently lower. Do keep me updated if this helps. Can always get in touch via Reddit - u/Caza390 sending photos of your bed mesh and I'll see what I can do to help 👍
I can imagine, why this specific brand and printer are being sold second hand so much, for so little... Yet thank you very very much for this video. That is likely going to help. Top job, thanks!
Honestly, I had my first round of issues with this printer and considered getting rid of it, all the negative stuff about it started posting everywhere and it was hard to find useful information. It just takes a while of research and learning the right key words to solve your problems. Which is why I wanted to make this video for those that have similar issues as it feels like there's no beginner friendly starter guides for this. :)
@@CazaCreates Exactly, to me as a consumer, the issues I run in to with this thing, is simply a product coming from a bad business model of a company, with sad service, sad updates, and crappy customer service. I am not even going to resell the thing. It's going in the bin. And I will concentrate on a better product out there. Right after buying a complete new one, after having an old one that was needing firmware eventually, after maybe half a year of use, it broke down. Now with the new one I already noticed and analysed I had to checkup the firmware right after buying the damned thing. So my conclusion. It is complete and utter crap. This company let's it's customers down. Sure it has a nice price, but the crap and issues that one runs into when buying and setting it up, simply crap. Broken bricks right out of the box. This company bases sales on their income model, not on satisfying consumers, even let's them down in to buying new better models. I am done with this brand. And the Chinese crap they put in to it. Thank you for your comment and help. Good luck with your processes and printings. :) Have a great day!
I have 2 maxes and both of them had same issue , the y axis rails weren't parallel, they were off by .5 mm from one end to other , this caused my wheels to be tight at front where i was adjusting them and way too tight at back which cause them to wear bad and was making bed wobble.
@CazaCreates Yes, I got it fixed. I had to take the The bottom off and loosen the rails and align the rails with the caliper. They had the same distance on the front and the back and got new wheels. Works great just now. Also used a digital angle finder to align the y s
Just got this printer and i cant get my prints to stick to the plate. And the printer nozzle went through the build plate for no reason after a frame ware update. I've wasted 9 hrs. trying to bring a stupid boat and not one came out correct.
@@emorrot9938 I have heard that it’s not ideal to update your printer if it’s working perfectly from the box. Besides that make sure you’re keeping an eye on the temperature. Giving it time too. So set the printer to 60/65 on the bed, let it get to that number then leave it for 10 minutes to settle at that temperature and for the metal to warp to it. Then do the whole levelling stuff. It could be a case of needing to tune your printer. I know in my case I need to work on its layer height more, the right temperatures (I am currently using 65&210 on the first layer then 60&200 the rest of the way) flow rate etc. Since a firmware update has effected your printer I would go to the Reddit page or discord pages linked in the description to try and get some support that way as there are some useful people there
@@SaagarShah there’s 2 that are different? I would mostly rely on the one done from the handheld as I have heard that would have a higher chance at saving. Is it a massive difference or subtle differences?
@@CazaCreates so when i press the calibrate on klipper after doing the tilt screw leveling, a bed mesh appears, aqnd when I do my z offset after and press automatic on the hand held a second mesh that is named 6 appears. I will use the bed mesh named as 6?
Honestly I did a fair bit of research to get to the stage I am currently at, with more room for improvements like tuning the printer too! What parts are you struggling with and what printer?
Hi, I believe all the Neptune 4 printers are Wireless. My printer is the Neptune 4 Plus. I do have an IP, I just blurred it out for personal preference and comfort. If you get any of the Neptune 4 printers, they should be wireless. But there’s also an Ethernet cable which you can hook your printer into. I hope this helps with any confusion :)
@@Cofiko55 oh… strange?! I just have a Quick Look around, could be a firmware issue. I don’t like the idea of pushing an update or anything but you might have to if you’re missing a function on your printer like that or see if there’s a firmware restart. Do you have a WiFi adapter that attaches to your printer? If you do, try contacting the support about updates or check the Reddit/Discord links in the description to see about it / ask about it. I haven’t done one before since I’ve never dealt with software issues. But I have heard that the printer and handheld are different things to update. So make sure, if you do update, do both!! Good luck!
@@Cofiko55 See what would happen if you plug your printer in by the Ethernet port, then check "About Machine" to locate the IP. If it still isn't shown, I really haven't got a clue - at which case I am really sorry and you'll have to deal with the support side. Maybe try their discord which is in the description. If you are still struggling, email the support team - also linked in the description. I wish you luck! Again sorry for not being able to assist you, I couldn't find anything that holds a similar issue :/
@@llNATEDOGGll according to u/EarlyActivive66 “You can turn off the power switch after the printer is cooled down or in the Webinterface fluidd the 3 points top right > hosts > shutdown” I go from the switch but according to some others, the switch method isn’t ideal as it can cause corruption. So I will now try the other way. Apparently there WAS supposed to be an update for a proper shutdown. I can’t confirm this since I haven’t needed to and haven’t yet updated my printer
It could be that the printer doesn't work wirelessly for yours. I think another person had that issue. Do you have the Neptune 4. not pro, plus or max?
@@whatwouldlewdo I think what you have to do is treat it like an old school computer. Connect the printer to the WIFI box using an ethernet cable. After switch on the printer and go to the settings > about machine. Cross fingers you'll have the IP!
Not from what I have seen/heard of so far. The closes thing I have seen about "corrosion" is using it to smooth off the prints itself. Would be quite odd for something that is highly used for cleaning, especially with metal to corrode a metal sheet. Out of anything it might effect the colour of the PEI sheet.
I think it depends on stuff. Cheaper printers = more work before getting good results. I mean there’s plenty of faults that could’ve been avoidable.. and I mean many! But if it does the job for some and a cheap price then it’s not too bad. But if you’re expecting something out the box that works well I have heard Prusa printers are good!
@@CazaCreates the main problem is that elegoo made their neptune 4 series firmware like a house of cards. It has a very old klipper version and once you update it or fluid -- it starts falling aparts. Tons of bugs where inconsistent z-offset is the main one. You need to flash the printer (and MCU too, after soldering a couple of things at motherboard) with the custom firmware to make it worrk as it should. As a third or more printer -- it can be interesting in some ways... But as a first printer it's literally a headache. Ask me how I know.
@@CazaCreates oh and talking about a cheap printers. ender 3 v3 se is a way cheaper and it does it's job a way better than a neptune 4 series printers. Or u can pay a bit more and get a KE version. u need to root it though, but there's tons of manuals about that. Nothin' too complacated imo.
UPD: After a six months of troubleshooting I've defeated that thing already. And what I want to say about it... All the neptune 4 series (except of n4pro!) can become a good printer after changing to OpenNept4ne custom firmware (motherboard soldering is no needed no more). And swapping to custom part cooling fun duct is preferable too.
The load on second hand printers of this brand and type is serious. Which is an indicator of how fast people want to switch after buying it. Also an indicator that guarantees on the damn thing are even worse. And the amount of maintenance it needs, before you get a result, the amount of material included to test it and keeping to test it. Than the updating of the z calibration and it even being off... All indicators that it is simply a bad product. I tested two of this same brand now. And will get rid of it, even if it has to go down the balcony.
Please read the Description for further help and links. :)
I would also quickly like to add some extra stuff here too.
A Lot of printer problems I have seen, seems to come from people not knowing on how to level their printers and getting the right Z Offset (I was one of those people). This video should hopefully help people visually see what they must do to get a better printing result. As mentioned and as you can see with my channel, I am new to this. I have also had problems like my extruder getting jammed resulting in contacting support.
Here are some notes I wish I added in my video, needed a quick correct or explanation:
- Don't overly tighten your belts! It will cause wear and tear or worse - snapping!!
- When I said Z-Wobble, I actually meant Z-Binding which Geek Detour mentions in his video (linked in description).
- I tried to loosen the feet but it was about to fall off. I could work on the other feet by tightening them to match the 1 odd foot, which I will do one day. But for now it is working fine.
- Possible reason why my printer went to -1.38. I might've done something to change the printer height when experimenting. I don't recall and I'm pretty sure I didn't do any changes that involved setting the printer at that setting, but that is my best guess lol.
I'll try to help find support for you on any issue you might have but I would suggest that you check out those subreddits or discord to see if you can find similar issues, if not don't be scared to ask for help. Also remember the community and support team are there to help and are human. Don't be horrible. Note that if you do need further help, that is on your own risk and testing!!
Please like and subscribe
This video alone should be reason enough for god to let you through those pearly gates.
I bought this printer 5 months ago, and just gave up on it because the levelling was pissing me off.
Thank you very much.
also, for the regular neptune 4, heres the screw code :
[screws_tilt_adjust]
screw1_name: front left screw
screw1: 55,10
screw2_name: rear left screw
screw2: 55,180
screw3_name: rear right screw
screw3: 225,180
screw4_name: front right screw
screw4: 225,10
horizontal_move_z: 10
speed: 200
screw_thread: CW-M4 # Use CW for Clockwise and CCW for Counter Clockwise
I'm glad my video was able to trouble solve your issue!! Good luck on your 3D projects! :D
The actual frame being level with the earth or your table doesn't matter too much. You could attach it to a wall and it should still print sideways, although some of the mechanical parts will experience more wear than usual. Good video overall though.
Yeah, I've seen a video of someone trying different tables after people mentioning on how wobbly his table was, then I think he hung it on a rope or something and still got pretty good results.
The purpose of mentioning is to remove any controllable errors. I know it's a minor thing and the odds are very very slim for problems with a crooked printer besides from what you listed, which is why I also showed that I used tissues to lift my printer (It was also very annoying that it shook my desk making a lot of noise and creating a challenge when working or gaming lol).
Also thank you :)
Hi. How did you work out the Z offset you need please. Enjoyed the video but maybe a bit too advanced for me...
I’m not too sure with paper as I couldn’t ever tell, but a good rule of thumb with a feeler gauge is to get as close as possible until you feel some grip. If you notice the printer head move (which I found using a camera helps with that) then you are too low, if you are hardly feeling any resistance, go a little lower.
Try printing at this point, if it’s not working out, try printing at a slight bit higher or lower by 0.01.
There is probably a way to use Klipper to move the print head up over a certain point when doing a ‘bed level test print’ but I haven’t explored Klipper enough to figure out that trick yet.
^ You could check some of the Reddit pages to see if anyone has a way to do that.
Hope this somewhat helps? 😊
I've had nothing but trouble trying to level my neptune 4 Plus, its some sort of dark art. I will try what you suggest and that button in Orca will be a game changer, thank you
Can you tell me if this has worked for you? I'm thinking about buying a n4 plus.
Any updates on you trying these methods out?
Great video with great tips! Thank you!
Thank you! :D
Hi, do you still recommend the N4+? I purchased it today and I'm watching every video about ot till it arrives
@@imnotryuu6391 Hi, so from my experience I had an issue where filament did get stuck in the extruder. Elegoo did send out a new one for me, I haven’t really heard of anyone having issues like what I had, so it’s probably a rare issue. Besides that the printer has been alright.
Since it is a lower end costing printer you do need to be hands on to tune it.
There’s always things they could’ve done to make it more user friendly but there’s loads of help online.
I personally use Orca Slicer as I find that easier to work with imo.
Recently I’ve used ChatGPT to help dumb things down for myself too to make it more understandable.
Thank you for the video. I am getting the !! Move out of range: -5.000 30.000 10.000 [0.000] when I try to use the "screw tilt adjust." How can I fix this issue? Neptune 4 Max
Sorry for the late response, I don't get notified for all my comments - did you manage to sort it out?
If not, one thing that helped me get the location was using Fluidd/Klipper to manually move the printer into position where the screws were, note down the location somewhere, then when I went to add Screw Tilt Adjust I put in those coordinates.
Just got a Neptune 4 last week and this is super helpful! As for the bed mesh and IP address - is this possible without the printer being connected directly to internet?
no, with printer offline you can't use klipper, i know that with neptune 4 you can add a usb wifi adapter if you can't connect by cable
You can connect it to your PC/laptop using an ethernet cable
For Screw Tilt Adjust, why not make the reference point one of the two center screws? That way, you don't have to adjust those to obtain a level bed.
@@modinproductions I did. I also mentioned it around 3:50. I personally use the right middle due to the printer placement.
I believe there is stone information wrong in this video. You can adjust the z offset in fluidd, BUT you have to issue a SAVE_CONFIG afterwards. The handheld does it too.
I use the paper method for an initial z offset and then start a print of a lage rectangle (at least 100x50mm) with info angle 0°. Use an android app or the handheld to live afjust the z offset while printing that rectangle and stop the print if it looks fine. Save your settings, like described before in the console and you are ready to go.
For petg i have to wait at least 45min to get 80°C stable.
You can verify that yourself by:
1. Home
2. Set bed and extruder temps (e.g. 80 and 100)
3. Run Scre tilt adjustment
4. Repeat 3 until values are stable over 5-10 min and write down the time till the first stable run.
im a little lost on what you mean by tightening the bed on the opposite side? So if the eccentric nut is on the right i should tighten the bed screw on the left?
@@MasnMakes So if you notice the left wheels are loose, you need to tighten the right wheels up since the right wheels have the eccentric nuts. The only wheel on the left side that has an eccentric nut is the middle one.
If the left is tight, loosen it via the right too btw.
Hope this made sense and cleared that part up for you?
@@CazaCreates yeah thanks buddy
@@MasnMakes no problem :)
im confused about the leveling. because when I put the paper in and adjust the bed so that I barely feel traction, the head drags and scratches previous layers.
@@jb1139 could be that the level isn’t being saved.
Make sure the bed is manually levelled first and is as flat as you possibly can get it.
What I have done to some issues was Z-Offset > Auto Level > Z-Offset. Always finish with a Z level.
But secondly that is partially why I couldn’t do the paper method. When I did the paper method I actually caused minor scratching on the print bed. Which is why I’d highly recommend a feeler guard as you can feel more and work from there.
After you can do some bed level tests to work on the Z more.
Hope this helps
@jb1139 if your 1st layer is good you might have too high flow rate like me
So before recently updating the firmware your process worked with saving the z offset, now after updating it isn’t being saved and it’s consistently far. How do I get it to be saved ?
@@shahsaa1 after updating you need to redo you auto level again.
Next make sure you’ve updated both the printer and the handheld device as they have separate updates last I recall.
Personally I have heard that if your machine is all good from the box, you shouldn’t really update it. I don’t update mine since the time I got mine, I heard many issues with the update. That’s long gone now I would assume though.
If you tampered with the Z offset on the Klipper software, it can cause miss reading (I did this once and it dug into my bed, refusing to go into the level settings) to solve this there will be an option listed as Z-Offset: 0.00 (or something else) if that doesn’t have a # in front of it then it’s reading that code compared to the saved offset. Make it so it says #Z-Offset: 0.00 turning it into a comment removing it as a function.
Besides that you’ll either have to join the discord of Elegoo or email support as it could be a software fault. They should hopefully help reset you back to a previous version - hopefully.
Brilliant video
Thank you! :D
A printer doesn't have to be level to the ground. It has to be level or even distances to itself. I and others have even printed upside down .
When using the feeler gauge, should I stop as soon as the nozzle touches the gauge? Also, when doing calibrate in the tune section the bed mesh looks almost perfect, but after doing the automatic with the handheld the entire bed mesh appears lower except for one side which is way higher. Any tips?
feeler gauge - I personally do it so once I feel the nozzle a little go down once or twice. This gives me a grippier feel but not too low. If it doesn't work out you can always print a bed test. If you want to really put it to the test there are methods where you can get the printer to do a bed test starting from low and work it's way up.
Bed Mesh - I had a weird issue with one of the corners being incorrect. Which is why I start my screw tilt in the middle of my printer. Make sure the bed visual settings is set correct ie Mesh matrix, color scale 0.2 box scale 2.0.
It could be flat enough that any slight imperfection is showing red, so check to see how high the highest point is to the lowest point as long as you Variance is within 0.2.
Next, just like in my video, try and loosen the 2 screws to see if that changes anything.
You could also try to find which part of your bed is the middle ground and use that as your starting point for the Screw_Tilt_adjust.
Last method that I can think of without being able to see it, not ideal, but using foil tape to help lift the side that is currently lower.
Do keep me updated if this helps. Can always get in touch via Reddit - u/Caza390 sending photos of your bed mesh and I'll see what I can do to help 👍
I can imagine, why this specific brand and printer are being sold second hand so much, for so little... Yet thank you very very much for this video. That is likely going to help. Top job, thanks!
Honestly, I had my first round of issues with this printer and considered getting rid of it, all the negative stuff about it started posting everywhere and it was hard to find useful information. It just takes a while of research and learning the right key words to solve your problems. Which is why I wanted to make this video for those that have similar issues as it feels like there's no beginner friendly starter guides for this. :)
@@CazaCreates Exactly, to me as a consumer, the issues I run in to with this thing, is simply a product coming from a bad business model of a company, with sad service, sad updates, and crappy customer service. I am not even going to resell the thing. It's going in the bin. And I will concentrate on a better product out there. Right after buying a complete new one, after having an old one that was needing firmware eventually, after maybe half a year of use, it broke down. Now with the new one I already noticed and analysed I had to checkup the firmware right after buying the damned thing. So my conclusion. It is complete and utter crap. This company let's it's customers down. Sure it has a nice price, but the crap and issues that one runs into when buying and setting it up, simply crap. Broken bricks right out of the box. This company bases sales on their income model, not on satisfying consumers, even let's them down in to buying new better models. I am done with this brand. And the Chinese crap they put in to it. Thank you for your comment and help. Good luck with your processes and printings. :) Have a great day!
How do you turn off the printer? Is the power switch fine to use?
I just go to the home screen and switch it off by the power. If you don't go to the home screen it may show an error message before cutting out.
I have 2 maxes and both of them had same issue , the y axis rails weren't parallel, they were off by .5 mm from one end to other , this caused my wheels to be tight at front where i was adjusting them and way too tight at back which cause them to wear bad and was making bed wobble.
Oh that sucks, did you manage to get in sorted eventually or just moved onto a different printer?
@CazaCreates Yes, I got it fixed. I had to take the The bottom off and loosen the rails and align the rails with the caliper. They had the same distance on the front and the back and got new wheels. Works great just now. Also used a digital angle finder to align the y s
wow, well done, u put in the time , please keep sharing
Thank you!
I know, I gotta get myself back into making more videos with my printer!
Just got this printer and i cant get my prints to stick to the plate. And the printer nozzle went through the build plate for no reason after a frame ware update. I've wasted 9 hrs. trying to bring a stupid boat and not one came out correct.
@@emorrot9938 I have heard that it’s not ideal to update your printer if it’s working perfectly from the box.
Besides that make sure you’re keeping an eye on the temperature. Giving it time too. So set the printer to 60/65 on the bed, let it get to that number then leave it for 10 minutes to settle at that temperature and for the metal to warp to it. Then do the whole levelling stuff.
It could be a case of needing to tune your printer. I know in my case I need to work on its layer height more, the right temperatures (I am currently using 65&210 on the first layer then 60&200 the rest of the way) flow rate etc.
Since a firmware update has effected your printer I would go to the Reddit page or discord pages linked in the description to try and get some support that way as there are some useful people there
okay so which bedmesh do i use? there is two that are different doing this method
@@SaagarShah there’s 2 that are different?
I would mostly rely on the one done from the handheld as I have heard that would have a higher chance at saving.
Is it a massive difference or subtle differences?
@@CazaCreates so when i press the calibrate on klipper after doing the tilt screw leveling, a bed mesh appears, aqnd when I do my z offset after and press automatic on the hand held a second mesh that is named 6 appears. I will use the bed mesh named as 6?
i wish mine where this easy as this videos shows
Honestly I did a fair bit of research to get to the stage I am currently at, with more room for improvements like tuning the printer too!
What parts are you struggling with and what printer?
Great video, subsribed 👍🏽
Thanks for the sub!
what if there's no IP, on the video it seems like u didn't have the IP number either...
Hi, I believe all the Neptune 4 printers are Wireless.
My printer is the Neptune 4 Plus. I do have an IP, I just blurred it out for personal preference and comfort.
If you get any of the Neptune 4 printers, they should be wireless. But there’s also an Ethernet cable which you can hook your printer into.
I hope this helps with any confusion :)
Ah! Makes sense, and btw, did u blur mine too😂, I have Neptune 4 pro as well, strange I have no IP on mine…
Thanks for the video
@@Cofiko55 oh… strange?!
I just have a Quick Look around, could be a firmware issue. I don’t like the idea of pushing an update or anything but you might have to if you’re missing a function on your printer like that or see if there’s a firmware restart.
Do you have a WiFi adapter that attaches to your printer? If you do, try contacting the support about updates or check the Reddit/Discord links in the description to see about it / ask about it.
I haven’t done one before since I’ve never dealt with software issues. But I have heard that the printer and handheld are different things to update. So make sure, if you do update, do both!!
Good luck!
@@CazaCreates sigh, yeah that's what I thought, is there more simple way that what elegoo official site offers? thank u
@@Cofiko55 See what would happen if you plug your printer in by the Ethernet port, then check "About Machine" to locate the IP. If it still isn't shown, I really haven't got a clue - at which case I am really sorry and you'll have to deal with the support side. Maybe try their discord which is in the description. If you are still struggling, email the support team - also linked in the description. I wish you luck! Again sorry for not being able to assist you, I couldn't find anything that holds a similar issue :/
How about properly turning it off?
@@llNATEDOGGll according to u/EarlyActivive66
“You can turn off the power switch after the printer is cooled down or in the Webinterface fluidd the 3 points top right > hosts > shutdown”
I go from the switch but according to some others, the switch method isn’t ideal as it can cause corruption. So I will now try the other way.
Apparently there WAS supposed to be an update for a proper shutdown. I can’t confirm this since I haven’t needed to and haven’t yet updated my printer
Something I learned: if your first purge line is curly or squiggly you wheels are too tight. They need to be just right.
That's interesting to know. Thank you !!
mine doesnt have an ip adress 😭
It could be that the printer doesn't work wirelessly for yours. I think another person had that issue. Do you have the Neptune 4. not pro, plus or max?
@@CazaCreates i have 4 pro
Gordon Ramsey is cooking on an, Elegoo.? Burned the toast...Tut, Tut.
What if the IP is blank ? What then ? 😂😏
I’m guessing you just have a Neptune 4 and not the 4 plus or max?
@CazaCreates Correct, just the plain ol' headache-- I mean Neptune 4. 😏
Is there a Ethernet port?
@CazaCreates Yes
@@whatwouldlewdo I think what you have to do is treat it like an old school computer. Connect the printer to the WIFI box using an ethernet cable. After switch on the printer and go to the settings > about machine. Cross fingers you'll have the IP!
Dont use isopropyl on a pei sheet. You can look this up its not good for pei and corrodes it
Not from what I have seen/heard of so far. The closes thing I have seen about "corrosion" is using it to smooth off the prints itself. Would be quite odd for something that is highly used for cleaning, especially with metal to corrode a metal sheet. Out of anything it might effect the colour of the PEI sheet.
Beginner's guide for neptune 4 series:
Don` buy this piece of crap.
I think it depends on stuff. Cheaper printers = more work before getting good results. I mean there’s plenty of faults that could’ve been avoidable.. and I mean many! But if it does the job for some and a cheap price then it’s not too bad.
But if you’re expecting something out the box that works well I have heard Prusa printers are good!
@@CazaCreates the main problem is that elegoo made their neptune 4 series firmware like a house of cards. It has a very old klipper version and once you update it or fluid -- it starts falling aparts. Tons of bugs where inconsistent z-offset is the main one.
You need to flash the printer (and MCU too, after soldering a couple of things at motherboard) with the custom firmware to make it worrk as it should.
As a third or more printer -- it can be interesting in some ways... But as a first printer it's literally a headache. Ask me how I know.
@@CazaCreates oh and talking about a cheap printers. ender 3 v3 se is a way cheaper and it does it's job a way better than a neptune 4 series printers. Or u can pay a bit more and get a KE version. u need to root it though, but there's tons of manuals about that. Nothin' too complacated imo.
UPD:
After a six months of troubleshooting I've defeated that thing already. And what I want to say about it... All the neptune 4 series (except of n4pro!) can become a good printer after changing to OpenNept4ne custom firmware (motherboard soldering is no needed no more). And swapping to custom part cooling fun duct is preferable too.
The load on second hand printers of this brand and type is serious. Which is an indicator of how fast people want to switch after buying it. Also an indicator that guarantees on the damn thing are even worse. And the amount of maintenance it needs, before you get a result, the amount of material included to test it and keeping to test it. Than the updating of the z calibration and it even being off... All indicators that it is simply a bad product. I tested two of this same brand now. And will get rid of it, even if it has to go down the balcony.