Hi Everybody, Welcome! If you have technical questions please check out www.Patreon.com/GraceAppliance By becoming a channel supporter, you'll get priority response to technical questions, technical data sheet requests, and help support the channel so I can produce more repair videos. Thanks so much! Andy
This is the best video for figuring out how to remove the control panel. I searched through all of them and this one works for the GE Profile, side-by-side model too. It's impossible to get to all the mold and crud inside the ice and water dispenser area unless you remove the panel. It's got to be a lot healthier now that I removed 15 years of super nasty stuff.
You can use long stick cotton swabs (for plastics areas only), damp them in a glass with baking soda or white vinegar then use that swab to clean difficult to access areas. Don't touch anything electrical and off course, disconnect power before start cleaning. there is a way to dismantle the whole system and put all the plastics in bleach but if you don't know how to do it, you can easily beak the plastics pins or loose some very small springs and screws. Always use hand tools, not powered.
Our front touch panel had been out but the the fridge and freezer were fine. The video was helpful. We don’t have the same model but the video did help. We ordered the display panel assembly. We had to order the bracket also because it did crack. We changed them ourselves. Success! Thank you!
Love this video. Short and to the point, yet does a thorough job of helping to diagnose control panel and display issues. Saved me lots of time and $$$.
Andy I don't even have a side by side but I enjoy Your videos. I wish You worked on other appliances too. You really do a good job of explaining your troubleshooting process.
Really helpful for me to diagnose my GE GSH25JSXNSS refrigerator problem, it shows unstable voltage between 3 to 7 volts, changed the control board to get issue fixed
Thanks for the video. Mine was showing a short at the main control board (0.24V). When i disconnected the touch panel, I was getting 13.8V at the control board AND the touch panel connector. I am concluding my touch panel has a short on the board, but my control board is still ok, since it’s giving power to the line.
GrockNRoll033 hey! I’m not understanding how you are determining the short in the board. This would be determined with an Ohm test vs a volt test, but I’m not sure how this would be tested on the board itself. What symptoms is your fridge giving?
this viedo shows me so much- I thought the voltage would be AC and I stayed away. I replaced my auger motor on my Frididaire FFHS2322MW2 and it and the inside light still don't work; so I'm planning to use the structure you taught to diagnose my problem. Thank you
This set of four videos is very informative, simple to follow, and the explanations are precise. I tried everything on my refrigerator because it seems that everything was failing. It was the control panel. However, the manufacture has discontinued the production of those panels. If someone has information on where can I get a control panel for this type of fridge, please let me know. The model of my refrigerator is GSH25JFXNWW. Thank you.
Thanks so much! The best place I've found to look for discontinued parts such as these is ebay. Sometimes you'll have to pay a premium for a used part, but if you're able to find them it may be worth it. Good luck!
When I test the voltage of the main control board, it jumps back and forth between 2 and 14V. This is with a new control board. What else can I troubleshoot?
Hi Grace, I have followed your tutorial, and did all the measurements, my issue, is that I recently replaced the evaporator fan, and right after that, when I plugged in the temperature on the front panel on the freezer was showing -43 degrees c, and the fresh food 2 degrees, and at this point the refrigerator was off for more than 24hrs. I test all the thermistors, they are all good. So what seams to happen is, as the temperature provided is so low, the compressor won't start. I got it to start by raising the temperature on the front panel, on the fresh food compartment, and then again turning on, since the temperature at that point on the front panel stats 2 degrees, when I set ti 1 degree, it starts, but than 5 min later would turn of as the temperature on the FF move down to 1 degree, and at this point it would not turn on again, unless I do the same steps again! I test the sensors and power on the board , and I got 5 volts w/ the conector unplugged and 1,5 volts w/ it plug in. can you help? mi ref. is a side by side profile - 200d6823p076
Wonderful tutorial...very well explained and demonstrated. My son has just moved into a house and the appliances included in the sale included a GE side-by-side fridge/freezer. The fridge and freezer both work well but the touch panel does not, in spite of efforts to "reset" it. I applied a multimeter to the black and red "input" pins of the touch panel and it shows no power reaching the board. Unfortunately, when I tried to do the same at the control board, it is not the same as the one featured in your video, so I was not able to identify the "output" wires carrying the power to the touch panel, for testing. Any thoughts? The touch panel features a temperarure selection function. I have a photo of the control panel. Also, if I find that power is "leaving but not arriving"(!) this obviously means a fault somewhere along the connecting wires...what's the fix in such cases? (Specifically, is it possible to re-wire between the control board and the touch panel?)
Tim O'Leary hey Tim, thanks for the kind words, you’re most welcome. I think you’re on the right track in your diagnosis. It does sound like a poor connection to the front board if indeed you have the correct measurements at the main board. Now, there is a very common connection to fail below the freezer door hinge. It’s located behind the front kick panel. If you’ll inspect that for broken or corroded wiring, unplug it and replug it in about 10x, that may solve your issue. If not, let me know and we can go from there. Thanks! Andy
@@GraceAppliance Many thanks for the speedy reply, Andy. I will do as you say and let you know how it goes; (it may be a week or so before I get back to my son's place). Tim
Hi, Andy. You may recall that I contacted you here recently about my attempts to identify the cause of a "dead" touch panel on a GE side-by-side fridge/freezer. Because the main control board on the appliance differs from the one featured in your tutorial, I have been unable to identify the two wires I need to check, with the multimeter, for the 12/14 volts going to the touch panel. I was wondering - if it's not asking too much (!) - if I was to send you a photo of the main control panel, would you be able to steer me to the two pins/colours on it that I need to test for the "voltage out (to the touch panel)" ? Many thanks again. Tim O' Leary, Dublin, Ireland.
@@timoleary9514 sure, glad to help if I can. Please send a picture of both the touch panel and also the main control board. Thanks! Graceappliance@gmail.com
Andy, I replaced the mainboard because the temperature was fluctuating and would not hold its setting. I initially replaced the converter board because the compressor would not kick off after I left the freezer door open overnight. Now after replacing the mainboard now the converter will not kick the compressor. Any suggestions, where can I order a set of schematics for this model? Any diagnostics settings that you can share.
Nice video, I'm trying to find out how does the touch pad itself go bad. I have a dishwasher front panel that is bad and would like to fix it without replacing it.
Hi Andy, I replaced the control board. Now the compressor gets hot but the refrigerator still does not cool. Using a Kill-A-Watt meter the refrigerator draws around 10 amps when initially plugged in and then I can hear the relay click and current draw drops to around 0.25 amps. Does this mean that the compressor is bad? Thanks, Brian
It does sound like a locked up compressor. (I.e. the motor inside the compressor) as these will initially pull about 10 amps, but will usually drip to about 1.5Amps once the system pressure equalizes which takes a few seconds. Can you feel the compressor running softly after it draws the 10 amps, or does it not run at all. A locked up compressor will usually buzz loudly until the overload relay clicks on. Did you say that you’d also replaced the compressor relays? If not, you may attempt to put on an RCO810 (not the rco410) which is a compressor hard start relay. You may be able to get it started this way and then take the same amp measurement at that point. It should read between 1 and 1.5amps. If it I’ll then start, but pulls higher than this amp draw, the compressor is on borrowed time, but may run for a time.
Thank you. What if my panel lights up, but not dispense water? I have changed the filter, changed the valve, re-connected wires at bottom, but still no luck. I got water at 3 random times. The panel does light flickering when I press for ice and does not dispense any. I see ice in the tray. Plz suggest any pointers you may have. Thanks again
Hey, I'd first suspect that the dispenser micro switch had failed. Unplug your fridge. Remove the front panel, and the white plastic housing secured by 4 Phillips screws. You'll see the black switch that's activated by the panel. You should hear a soft click when depressed. If it's spongy instead of a positive click, it's failed. Also it should read about .03 ohm when depressed. Let me know if you have any questions. Andy
I have a profile dispenser on my GE side by side. The control panel locks on "water" and intermittently comes back to normal or all lights flash and the alarm goes off. It fluctuates on its own but doesn't interfere with the freezer or frig. they work OK. What do you think.
Hi Kenneth, just based on the symptoms it sure sounds like a shorted out touch panel. Basically it 'pushes' the buttons on its own because the buttons are constantly depressed. That would be my initial knee jerk reaction for a diagnosis. There are ways to test the button function by taking ohm measurements on each pin as you're depressing the button... However, you'd need to know the pin configuration as it associates to each pin, but unfortunately the tech sheet won't show this info. So, I can't think of a good way to test this theory out without swapping the touch panel. Just my initial thoughts.
Seems simple enough to test the font panel first rather than the control board. Why wouldn't I just check if 12-14v is coming in there first before looking at the control board in the back? (Also I have noticed every GE fridge seems to have a different way to hold in the front panel, some have snaps on the top, some snap off on the bottom (like yours) mine has two screws. If I tried one of the snap off methods I would break something
Hi, we just had our fridge stop cooling and the front circuit board in the icemaker door panel doesn't light up or work. The interior light bulbs remain working in the fridge and freezer. After an hour, the circuit board in the ice maker/front door panel began clicking. We followed your video and we are only getting voltage readings of between 7 and 9 volts fluctuating at many points in the rear and freezer door connections. We also smelled a very faint burning smell when we checked the rear circuit board. There is one tiny scorch mark on the green of the board under the heat sink. We just aren't sure whether the main control board is bad or if the front control board is bad, as the voltage is low everywhere. Also, the front touch panel/ circuit board is the one clicking, not the rear circuit board. The front door circuit board appears to have no damage. There is minor corrosion on the front door icemaker connectors. But voltage readings were taken on both sides of this connection and it reads the same, as thought the minor corrosion is not really affecting the connection. We were thinking of ordering a new rear control board, but I wanted to see if you might give us advice first. Thank you!
Hi Blackbird Farm, If you are seeing a burned mark on the rear board, I would start with replacing this one as it clearly has failed. It will likely resolve the issue and most likely won't need a front control board. I can only think of probably 2 times that i've ever needed to replace the front touch pad. But, the main control is more than I can count. Looking at your handle: Are you a homesteader?
@@GraceAppliance Thank you so much for your prompt reply. We will order the new board right away. And yes, we are homesteaders- A wonderful lifestyle we enjoy thoroughly!
Blackbird Farm LLC same here. We homeschool our girls, have chickens & soon a few turkeys. I’m building beehives over the next few weeks so this is our new adventure soon.
Andy, thanks very much for the detailed instructions included in your videos, they are very helpful in diagnosing various problems. I have an older GE Profile Side by Side (Model PSI23SGNA BS) and recently have encountered problems that I've traced to the front control panel. I checked and the panel is receiving 13+ volts from the main control board. I get no response when pushing the Ice and Crushed Ice buttons (they don't light up) and no ice is delivered. The light above the water button is on but no water is delivered from the spout. The Light button and Lock Control buttons operate normally. The front control panel on my unit is 197D4576G012. I have found similar panels on eBay with part number 197D4576G019. I'm wondering if these parts are interchangeable or if I'm required to locate a G012 version of the part. Also, if you know of any other sources for this part that information would be appreciated. Thanks again, J Mason
Hi James, I'm sorry to hear about that! Unfortunately, I am not aware of these boards are interchangeable or not. I do not know of a means by which to cross reference the parts against each other. I do not beleive there is such a list. Sorry to say.
@@GraceAppliance If the main control board has 7-10v it's a failed test bad main control board. Is there anything else that could cause the main control board to test at 7-10v? the wall outlet is functioning properly.
In my case I don't get the correct voltage with J4 plugged in and it won't turn on. As soon as I disconnect J4 it turns on and the pins have correct voltage. I've disconnected the conector on the bottom of the freezer door, and with J4 plugged it's the same deal. I changed main board, changed dispenser board. Same issue... can it be the cables itself? Will the fridge not turn on if there is no dispenser board present?
Hey Andy, I have a problem with my GE side by side refrigerator (Model# GSH25ISXBSS). I set the temp control to the recommended temps (0 freezer, 37 fridge) but the actual is way to low, -5 and 25 degs. I have replaced 2 of the 3 temp sensors and the main control board. The only temp sensor that I didn't replace is the at the bottom of the freezer. Could that be my problem or maybe the dispenser control board. If you think it is possibly the board, I think you do board repairs, would you have one? I am having a hard time finding one. GE is not making this board anymore. This has been a real chore for this old man but will "getherdone" if the Good Lord let me live long enough. Thanks up front for the help. I have watched all you videos many times. You bring it down to earth even to where I can understand. Thanks again Mike
Hi Andy, First thank you for your videos. They are very good but I still have a question. My GE side by side stopped cooling. Both the evaporator and condenser fans run but the compressor does not run and is cool to the touch. I removed the starter relay and tested for continuity between the 3 terminals on the compressor, there was continuity between all 3 terminals. Next I checked for short between the compressor terminals and chassis, there was no short. So I replaced the starter relay and the compressor still does not run. I checked for voltage between the leads that plug into the starter relay and no voltage. Next I removed the cover for access to the control board and found that the control board was blackened under the large relay (832-1C-S) that the grey 3-terminal plugs into. Does this relay just fail or should I chect the defrost system? Thanks, Brian
Hey, they do simply fail with age. The relays get old, get carbon build up on the contacts and the poor connection creates excessive heat. Then, you get what you’ve got. I would start with a new control board and monitor the fridge to see how it does. I would not expect anything outside of that issue you’re looking at. If you order using the amazon link in the description, this helps the channel a ton. Thanks!
@@GraceAppliance Thank you for your reply. I was afraid that if I just replaced the board that it might fail due to a problem that I have not addressed.
Hi i have a question do I damage a control board that drives a linear motor when I power it without having the motor connected? I have a LG-GS73SDD and it doesn't respond to the internal freezer temperature sensor. It cools to deep and the motor is not switching off. I plan to test the Fsensor and Dsensor but if that doesn't work I plan to add my own Arduino controlled sensor and switch one motor power feeds with a relay. I was wondering if that damages the motor. The other option is to see if I can trick the FSensor en tell the mother board that the temperature has reached its set point.
Great video. I have a GE Profile PSS26MSWASS. The dispenser display was blinking a "0" then it it went dark after a couple of days. The voltage at the dispenser measured 8-9 volts. I could not find a wiring diagram so I assumed it was low compared to 12-14v stated on this video. At the circuit board in the back, it measured 13.6V What would that tell me?
Do I change the dispenser control board in the back of my refrigerator or the main control board? I changed the dispenser control panel in the front and it still have a black screen
Hi Grace Appliance, I have a GE side by side and my freezer is 0 degrees F at its warmest setting and the water dispenser has frozen up. I bought a heater kit to keep the outlet of the water warm. I have 13 volts between the red (slot 2) and the wires on either side (this is the front touch panel). However, the heater is supposed to be connected to red (slot 2) and slot 6 but I don't have 13 volts there (no voltage). Can I connect the heater to slots 2 and 1 or 2 and 3? Or should I be checking thermistors? I checked one of the three at the bottom of the fridge and it seemed OK. This is a GSL25JFXL.
You may want to verify true temp with a separate thermometer to verify thermistor/sensors. But, the side by side GE is notorious for freezing water lines due to insulation breakdown inside the door. You can help this with adding some insulation to the inside of the door behind the dispenser as well as the heater. Yes, if you find 2 pins that provide 13vdc full time, those will work fine for your heater.
Hi, besides unplugging and replugging it back in, there is not a reset. I would check the wiring by the freezer door bottom hinge behind the kick panel. These wires get corrosion and often have a bad connection there. Next time it’s giving you issues, you’ll need a multimeter to test for the 13.5vdc from the main control board to the touch panel. I’d test for the voltage at main board behind the fridge, and then test again at the touch panel to make sure the voltage is making it to the touch panel. If voltage is good at main board, but not at the touch panel, you have bad wiring. If you do have voltage to the touch panel, but it doesn’t light up, you have a bad front touch panel. I hope that helps. Andy
Hello, my GE side-by-side GSRS3KLXHFSV has dead. Front panel, fans, compressor are not working. But only the light inside of each of two departments is working! The voltage on the motherboard is 114 V, so, as in my outlet. Could you tell me please, what is the possible reasons of this failure? Thank you so much.
Slava Glazyrin hey, most commonly it is the main control board that will cause this, but you’d need to rule out a failed front touch panel. To do this, careful not to touch anything else but the plug so you are not shocked, unplug the J4 connector from the main control. If the fridge comes to life this is a failed front touch panel. If there is no change, it would be a failed main control board. If you need a main board, you can get a wr55x10942 from graceapplianceDIY: www.graceappliancediy.com/products/ge-wr55x10942-refrigerator-main-control-board Feel free to let me know if you have any questions! Andy
@@GraceAppliance Thank you, Andy, for your professionalism! I have only unplugged J4 from the motherboard. There is no changes. And resistance of evap fan is 0,9 om. So, need I replace evap fan either??? Thank you!!!
Slava Glazyrin you’re welcome! No need to replace the fan. Sounds as if you need a main control board. Good luck and let me know if you run in to any issues. Thanks!
This is a longshot but do you by any chance know the sequence of buttons I press on my GE side-by-side to reset the refrigerator my lights are on on the inside but nothing is coming on including display panel. Thank you ahead of time if you can help
Andy, Loved the videos, very informative and easy to follow. I have a slightly different problem, would be interested to know if you have seen it before and what the solution was. I have a 10 year old GE GSL25JFTA BS. Most of the time it works great, but every time we get a power outage it takes a LONG time to start back up again. Whilst we are waiting for it to come back up the Front Control Panel is not illuminated and unresponsive, the lights in the refrigerator and freezer compartments work as normal. It seems to take longer to come back each time, this last time it took more than 48 hours. It is back up and running again now, but I feel I am waiting for the next power outage. Any thoughts and advise would be gratefully received.
Hi, most commonly this is due to a weak relay on the main control board. Yes, I agree that board is on borrowed time. That’s been the only possible cause I’ve seen give this symptom based on my experience. Hope it helps! Andy
Andy, Thank you for the rapid response, especially on a Sunday evening. I have a couple of follow up questions.... Which relay is giving me problems? Is it soldered in place? The control board you sent me details of looks quite a bit different to mine? Will it work? Thank you again.
Duncan Sheppard hi, there isn’t a way with the relays on the board to know which one is failed. They are soldered in place. The board I posted was looked up by your model number and is the correct part for your fridge. This is an updated part number for many of the models out there. Even though it’s different in appearance, it will work fine. Thanks!
Problem: Our front panel lights up and thus works well, the refrig makes ice, but does not give water when pushed by a glass. What's wrong? Thanks for these videos BTW.
Andy, I have a Ge side by side which dispenses water but will not engage the ice dispenser. Micro switch is good. I was wondering if the ice dispenser door solenoid may be faulty since it doesn’t open only an inch or so. Does the solenoid activate the auger as well?
Joseph Folsom thanks! So, since you have only one paddle that activates the water and the ice, and since the water works, I agree that micro switch is working. Now, I don’t believe the ice door flapper shares voltage with the auger. Does your auger activate when the switch is depressed? I’d start by testing for 120vac at the solenoid. If the auger is not activating, I’d also check for 120vac to the auger as well. Let me know what you find. Thanks!
Will do. The voltages in these machines work on both vac and dc interchangeably. Power to the touch pad is 13 and some change dc, and 120 vac to the solenoid? How can you only have approximately 14dc coming into the touch pad board and yet have 120 vac supply to the solenoid?
Great video. My situation is a bit different. I have 13v going to my dispenser from the main board and the dispenser has a green light flashing on the water button. No buttons work. Water pressure is fine and the line isn’t frozen. I thought it was a bad front panel board and replaced it but the new one is behaving exactly the same. I ran a diagnostic using the temp buttons (service mode) which reported that the main board is not communicating with the front panel. My gut says bad connection perhaps via the wire that goes under the door. Would you recommend some further diagnostic to help pinpoint the issue? Thanks a lot.
Hey, thanks! Yes, I'd first suspect the connector near the bottom freezer hinge. You may find corrosion or broken wires there. If the connector is too far gone due to damage, you can delete the plug altogether by soldering the wires together, but this makes removing the door more difficult in the future if you ever needed to. I'd start there and see how it goes.
Hey dude I have GE side-by-side refrigerator with ice 🧊 & water 💧 but I have replace night light still no power to power up new bulb. So can you show me or show me how to check if light bulb socket good or bad? Am calling from Houston TX
Hi Andy! Great video. My problem is intermittent. I have a GE28GYNCFS Side by side fridge with bottom freezer. Control panel works for a while then stops working. If I disconnect and reconnect power the panel always works again for a while (sometimes an hour or so, and sometimes only a few minutes) and then stops functioning. Suggestions?
Hey Keith, it's likely going to be the main control based on the symptom alone. Double check the outlet is not an issue by plugging in a different electrical device such as a lamp. This is just to rule out a failing socket at the wall. I would also want to rule out the front touch panel being shorted. At the time it's not working, if you disconnect the front touch panel from it's harness, if the fridge returns to normal, I would then suspect the front touch panel. However, based on my experience it's most likely a weak relay on the main control board. As the relays heat up, they do not work as well, but often will from a cold start.
@@GraceAppliance Thank you for your quick reply! I don’t believe it is a wall power issue - I’ve check the voltage at the duplex receptacle and it is 120VAC and even when the front control panel fails the interior lights are on and the fridge continues cooling ok - the control panel just stops functioning and ice dispenser stops. I checked the voltage on the control panel and it stays between 12 - 14 volts dc. I found that when it fails, if I unplug the harness on the back of the front control panel and then reconnect it the control panel resets and starts working again. So I am thinking the problem is the front panel board… would you agree?
@@keithgeorge2541 the front panel if shorted will give the same symptom, but once unplugged the fridge should nearly immediately act as normal. If no, I'd focus on the main control instead.
I do mostly commercial low temp and a/c. Freezer is ok , customer says the refrigerator has not cooled good since she purchased it. It seems like the compressor is not getting up to speed. So I watched your vid on checking the main board so I think I can find out if the compressor is getting the correct control voltage. Condenser is clean. When I push the button for turbo cool is when I get what looks to be a code. Very hard to find factory info on this machine.
Glen Lynch yeah, this machine is definitely more complex than most in that it’s got 2 evaporators, the compressor is variable speed (i.e. an inverter compressor), and it routes the refrigerant to each evaporator via a 3way refrigerant valve. Since the freezer is doing ok, we can assume the compressor is doing its job. Without knowing what error code is being displayed, I couldn’t say much more, but the same compressor cools the refrigerator evaporator. If the refrigerant valve is functioning and routing refrigerant to the refrigerator evaporator, you’d need to confirm the refrigerator section evaporator is circulating the air in that side. If you wanted to send me a message through TH-cam (not publicly here) with your email address I can defiantly email you the tech sheet which may be of some help.
Good vids ! How long should it run without shutting off ? Ge HOtpoint SIde,by side HSM25GFTASA, freezer temp down to 20-, makes ice fine, def seems to work, tested and replaced all the 3 temp sensors (thermistors), def thermostat, new heater (some of these tested good, but i r/r anyway since I 'm in there), took front panel off cleaned off some blackish specks all over the underside of the board and a little on top, its running now, but never seems to shut off ? All the front buttons work fine. EVap fan works, condensor fan works ! Just puzzled as to why it never shuts off on setting 5 5 which is norm or any setting really, just runs and runs, i worry it may damage it ?
@@GraceAppliance Ok, my bad, i meant 20- (less than 20F), it finally did shut off when put on 1 1 on front panel. I guess thats good enough at 15F ? What should the damper door do and when, ops check? when first took cover off damper door it would be full open at 1 1 , and full closed at 1 2 and all other even colder settings like 1 9. now its on 1 1 and just stays full open. Still feel like maybe the temp sensors in freezer might not be enough ohms, is it possible to put say a 1kohm resistor in series with each thermister to make the logic board think its cold enough at 5 5 ? I was down to 0 F when on 5 5 before.
john Doe john Doe I’d be curious to see a picture of the evaporator coils inside the freezer. You’d need to remove the back wall inside the freezer. I’d be curious how the frost pattern looks. If the compressor is struggling to keep up, it might eventually achive the correct temperatures, but would need to run much longer in order to do so. If you wanted me to take a look feel free to email the pictures to GraceAppliance@gmail.com With respect to the resistor idea, It will work in fooling the control, but wouldn’t be helpful in maintaining predictable behaviors from the fridge.
Hi, emailed frost pic (see bottom). Thanks for helping me. Pwr cord unplugged. I checked the thermistors at approx 0 (zero) deg F in the freezer, from the back J1plug wires (not the board pins), results were like: Pins J1 plugged in J1 not plugged in. 2 & 5 6.6Kohm 10.3kohm 3 & 5 12.3k 47.6k 4 & 5 12.9k 51.2k Makes me think for this exact Model HSM25GFTAsa that the J1 tests can't be trusted or sensors bad? I know I tested them in all in a cup of ice water and were all 3 getting 14Kohm & above. I would have thought the J1 not plugged in would be more exact but obviously 2 of them are way out there. The compressor was pretty hot so I am going to have to limit how much I run it simply by turning it off at the control panel i think. Starting to think the thermistors are bad but measure good at the 32-35 F area ? If you weren't able to get the frost pic, evap coils were clear at the top, increasing gradually until at bottom the evap coils were moderately covered (not iced solid). @@GraceAppliance
Hi Andy. Great videos. I have a side by side Model GSS25KSWASS. Started not dispensing water and then started back. Few days later no dispensing water or ice. The buttons on the display were working but no temp less light up. I unplugged fridge and plugged back in and the display started flashing 00 for a few seconds and then started scanning 0. Now Light and buttons do not light up but beep when pressed. I hard wired the molex connector behind the kick plate at bottom of freezer door and still have the same symptoms. The rest of the refrigerators working fine. Cooling and freezing normal and fan in freezer working and I believe I hear fan at bottom on back of refrigerator. Checked voltage on main board and got 13.5 VDC. Have not checked behind display. not sure how to remove the display. Does this sound like a bad main board or Display panel. Thanks for any help.
Hi Jim, Hmmmmm! You’ve done what I would have first suggested which is to check the molex connector that you rightly identified as a troublemaker. Now, from here it gets a little dicey to properly diagnose. Since you are not experiencing any issues outside of the touch panel such as no cool refrigerator etc, and you’re also getting the appropriate voltage from the main control - my recommendation is to start by checking for the 13.5vdc at the back of the touch panel. If 13.5vdc, replace the touch panel. All signs point toward a bad touch panel to me though. To remove the touch panel, you should be able to place 3 fingers on each side underneath the panel and lift gently as you’re pulling toward you. It should tilt toward you. If you’ll order through one of the affiliate amazon links in the description it helps the channel greatly. Also, while I’m 99% sure it’s going to be that front touch panel, Amazon has a no hassle 30 day return policy if you catch my drift. wink wink nudge nudge.
Andy, my part #WR55X10884 was not available on Amazon. I found it on other sites that said it was a replacement for WR55X10724. I can find that part # on ebay. Also WR55X10859. They both look exactly like mine. Would one of those part #'s work.
@@GraceAppliance Hi Andy. I got the interface front panel and installed it. Still got the same symptoms as before. Does it sound like possibly the main board or are there other parts that can cause these symptoms. Thanks for your help.
GE side by side with bottom freezer. Both ice makers have stopped making ice. Ensured temperature was low enough for ice making. The water dispenser is working as designed, both ice makers are in the on position on the touch panel, no solenoid noise for water, checked water in trays - none. The mother board GFE28HMHDES has an led on the board that is blinking once every second. Weird how both ice makers went out at the same time. The touch pad seems to show all parameters such as turbo control, temperature selections, can shut compressor off at touch pad Est. The paddles in the ice makers are good. Haven't found a schematic anywhere on the unit. Any suggestions?
When thinking through the parts that could affect both ice makers the initial things that come to mind are to double check that there is not a setting on your main control that says icemaker off. Other things I would check are a common water valve shared between the both ice makers. Or perhaps a failed door switch. Some refrigerators will cut power to the icemaker when the door is 'open' so a failed door switch would turn off the icemakers.
Andy, I too really enjoy your explanation of diagnosing the problem. I have an issue whereby my ice dispenser not dispensing ice. The ice maker makes ice but it doesn't discharge through the bin. Auger move freely. I tested the auger motor and it did not engage with the ice dispenser pressed, light switch pushed off, the auger shaft did not move. I removed auger motor and connected it to 110 ac and it operated good, rotating the auger shaft. I tested the dispenser switch for continuity and it was good. I have a schematic and don't know where to go from here. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Hey Jeff, It will help me to have the model number and I can give a little more specific advice, but if you've got a single paddle for both water and ice at the dispenser, it shares the same activation switch. So, you can test the function of the switch by selecting 'water' at the door touch panel...if you can get the water to come out at the dispenser then your switch is good. It sounds like your auger motor is good since you've tested that to direct power. Basically the components at play here are the auger, the switch, the front control panel to select either ice or water, and the main control board. Once I have your model I can let you know further. Thanks!
@@jeffgeorge1624 Hi Jeff, Your main control board should have J7-1 (plug J7 pin 1) a black/white wire and J7-9 (plug J7 pin 9) should be an orange wire. Your board should be sending out 120v to the auger here when you depress the switch to call for Ice. Let me know what you find with that test. Another thing to check is that the switch is still 'clicking' when depressed. Sometimes you will get continuity through the switch, but internally it has failed. The small plunger should not feel mushy and should have a definite click when depressed and let go. Thanks!
@@jeffgeorge1624 jeff george do you have a single dispenser paddle for both water and ice? If it is a single paddle and the water works when the switch is depressed, it should be working when the is depressed too. I'd want to know the Ohm reading you get when testing the dispenser switch. If the switch is good, I suspect a failed control board.
Hola Andy! Great videos. Would like to see videos on how to test the touch pad used to set and/or see the temperatures and other settings. Usually located in the top right side of the fridge. Thanks!
Great video. I have GE Profile fridge (Model PFCS1RkZA SS). Lights on user control interface started flashing nonsense last night and interior lights flickered. Reset fridge by disconnecting power for 5 minutes and no change in problem. Today user interface panel lights are dead and fridge and freezer not cold. Checked power into interface board and I have 12-15 volts. So, based on video I suspect I need new interface board. However interior lights do not work and interior fans are on. Is there a larger issue or is it the interface board?
Mark McCollister To me, it sounds like it would be the touch panel. The reason I say that is that if you’re getting voltage to that board at a minimum it should be lighting up. One thing I would try to see if you can narrow it down to that is, unplug the fridge, unplug the touch panel and plug the fridge back in. If the fridge comes back to life, you’ve determined you have a failed touch panel. Here is an affiliate link to order which helps the channel a lot: amzn.to/30R4g8X If there is no change once you’ve done that test, let me know. Thanks!
No change in operation of fridge with touch panel removed. I ordered new touch panel. To install I turned power off to fridge, waited 3 minutes, installed new touch panel, restored power. Touch panel blinks 4 zeros for about 30 seconds then becomes unresponsive/no lights/appears dead. What should I try next?
@@markmccollister7384 sounds like a step in the right direction the fact that it at least lights up. Most typically the flashing zeros will be caused by a poor connection at the plug at the freezer hinge behind the kick panel at your feet. Unplug and replug this 10x and see if this improves the flashing zeros issue. Also inspect it closely for any corosion on the wires. If it's bad enough you can delete the plug by soldering the wires together directly vs having a plug. Let me know what you find at that plug. Thanks!
GE refrigerator circuit board making a clicking noise, *click *click, on circuit board. On the same time when the circuit board makes click noise, compressor & condenser motor is making a humming noise. at the same time, the inside light bulb goes dim. When I disconnect the condenser motor, the everything is working fine, and no clicking noise on the circuit board, and the motor is 11.3 Volt DC and has 4 wires. What do you think it is, a bad motor?
@@GraceAppliance PSHS6RGXCDSS. I've been watching alot of your videos and they help alot. Thanks! When I got there, everything was working fine but it was a very dirty condenser and it was going off on overload. So I cleaned the condenser with CO2 and also did around the motor and through motor shaft. After I turned condenser back on, the circuit board started clicking.
Hey Punjabhai, I agree, it does sound like a shorted out condenser motor. You are getting the correct voltage to the plug so this says to me that the control board is doing it’s job fine. This is the condenser motor you’d need, and this should fix your issue. www.graceappliancediy.com/products/ge-wr60x10209-condenser-fan-motor-for-refrigerator Thanks! Andy
Andy, I have a GE model GE28GSKLSS french door bottom freezer that has a malfunctioning water and ice dispenser. All other functions on the control panel seem to work. There are no sounds coming from the ice or water dispenser other than the click of the pedal. The line is not kinked, and I have a bypass filter installed until I get the issue fixed. Is this a dispenser control panel issue?
Hey Todd, The first thing that comes to mind is a failed microswitch for the dispenser. It’s a small black switch behind the white housing inside your dispenser area. Be sure to disconnect power before accessing it behind the dispenser. You will be able to find it by actuating the dispenser lever and it will be the part that has the slight click to it when depressed. You can ohm test this switch to test to check for continuity when the switch is depressed. You should get a low reading such as .03ohm - .08ohms. This is one of the few parts that control both the water and the ice dispensing which is why I would start here. Let me know what you find.
Another quick thought is that one if your door switches may be acting up. Manually depress each door switch (including the freezer) with your hands to see if the lights come on and off when depressed. If the fridge thinks one of the doors is open, it will not dispense water or ice for you.
@@GraceAppliance OK, it is the freezer switch. If the light is not functioning properly, then the ice maker, water dispenser does not function. This is the most finicky fridge I have ever had.
Hi Andy, Thank you for the GREAT videos. I have a GE refrigerator GSS25GMHGCES and the control panel LED are blinking zeros, and the buttons are not working and it will not dispense ice or water, as the RED filter change indicator is lighted red. It appears that everything else is working, it is cooling, and I can hear the fan(s) working. Do you think this is just a function to remind me to change the water filter or is there an issue with the control board? I watch another TH-cam video that showed the GE control board had blinking zeros and in that video, the person replaced two capacitors the control that had the building tops and after replacement, the touch panel started working again. What do you think is causing the control panel LED to blink zeros, and the buttons are not working? Thanks you
Hi Jon, Most commonly, this is going to be caused by a poor connection between the touch panel and the main control board. The most common place for this poor connection is at a plug by the freezer door hinge behind the kick plate by your feet. Inspect this plug closely, unplug it and plug it back in 10x and see if that improves things. If you find heavy corrosion build up on the pins themselves, you may find it easiest to cut, strip and solder the wires (I. E. Delete the plug) so you're sure to have a good connection. I'd Start there and if you still have issues, I've got a video that breaks down how to diagnose it further. Let me know if you have any questions! Andy
@@GraceAppliance Andy, thanks for the quick response. Reading one of your answers to another question, I unplugged the frig for about 10 minutes and then plugged it in and now the control panel and water and ice dispensing is working again. However, when you press the TEMP button (up or down) they display the temp for a few seconds and then the LED turns off, I don't remember if they use to stay on or not. Is the freezer/frig temp suppose to be displayed all the time? Thanks again
I believe there may be a way to set it up to keep the digits on full time. I don't recall offhand how you can do that, but it will be in your owners manual if it's an option.
sebcast hey, the first thing that comes to kind is a connector behind your kick panel near the freezer hinge. Check here to see if there’s any corrosion, broken wires, etc etc. unplug the plug connection 10x or so and see if it changes the voltage output for you. Also, check the voltage with the plug at the front panel unplugged to see if it’s making it all the way to the front panel. This will help you determine if it’s a wiring issue (with the board unplugged in the front) if you’re getting 13v to the wires at the board with the board unplugged, it’s not wiring but likely the board.
Nice, can you tell us where the diagnostic codes table2 are for the HSM25GFTASA type of GE Hotpoint fridges, I know how to get into diag mode from the 4 front touch buttons for temp, but don't know the diag codes, or maybe you can just tell me the one I need to diagnose the defrost heat circuit ? THANK YOU !
john Doe hey, I never put a lot of faith in an error code and tend to test for the particular failures at the suspected components based on the symptoms I’m seeing. If you’re having defrost issues, this video will be helpful. You’ve got a wr55x10942 Control which is the same as what I’m testing ok this video. Let me know if you have any questions! th-cam.com/video/XeZfpB7ok90/w-d-xo.html Thanks! Andy
Control board front & back control board are test results 13.27 . No dispenser water & ice , I replaced water intel , switched, housing shield and solenoid for GE appliances. Also replace head filters still no dispenser ice or water.. I need help now ???
Thanks a lot for very helpful videos. Our GE fridge (model#: GSL22JFTABS) died last week (no cooling, no lights). After watching your videos, I replaced the main control board and it semi-works again: both the freezer and refrigerator compartments freeze/cool as supposed to be. But the ice & water is not functioning: the touch panel lights up but flashes two ZEROs constantly (never stops), and the touch panel is not responding to any puches. Any recommendation for the next step. Your kind assistance is appreciated.
Hi, I'd start by taking a very close look at the plug behind the kickpanel by your feet. Remove that panel and by the freezer hinge you'll have a small white plug. Look got corrossion, broken wires, or loose connections. Unplug and replug this and replug 4 or 5 times and see if it improves. Let me know. Thanks
@@GraceAppliance Thanks for your quick response. I cannot find the white plug behind the kickpanel (grill). The only thing there is a water line. All the electric wires (connection of the freezer door) are on the top hinge of the freezer door. Any more hints?
@@mntechspecial I'd do the same inspection at the plug on top of the hinge of you haven't already. This flashing zeros is usually a communication issue between the front panel and rear control board. If all looks good there, double check the connection at the main board and front touch panel plug.
@@GraceAppliance Just double checked the white plug (on the top hinge) and the the connections on the rear control panel. Nothing seems out of ordinary. They all seem fine to me. I will check the connections on the front panel (I need to learn how to uninstall it first.). Is it possible some bad connection inside ice & water system (such as ice maker, dispenser, etc)?
Josh Sun Hey, keep me posted if you run in to any issues. Also, could you please confirm what part number of control board you installed? I want to double check the correct part number for you.
Hi, it sounds like the front touch panel is failed. The main boards job is to send power to the front panel and you're getting the correct voltage. Is your fridge running in the meantime?
@@GraceAppliance No it's not there was a power outage and when the power came back the Front Panel stopped working. Also the evaporator fan isn't working, but thank to your videos I troubleshoot the problem and noticed that the main control board is sending proper voltage to the fans. Also noticed that around both resistors are brown but the board is still sending proper voltage. I'm guessing that the evaporator fan needs to be replaced.
Yes, I agree about the evaporator fan. Hopefully it did not cause lasting damage to the main board. If you will try disconnecting the front board from the refrigerator and then restore power it the fridge if it the runs as normal, it points toward a failed from board. Let me know what you find. Thanks!
My top ice maker not working on my dual icemaker GE model GFE28HSHDSS on the display only the " ice bottom on or off" will display the " ice top on or off" indicator not displaying. The water dispenser also not working this is a single ice water paddle unit. The dispenser light does come on when paddle depressed. I checked the freezer roll out drawer switch and the two refrigerator door switches they are good. In the beginning of troubleshooting all of the other indicator display functions were indicating when depressed. After removing the display board for inspection now the freezer is giving a LF code and fridge display giving a LC code. When I depress them for a short period the temperatures are displayed then back to the error code. Do I need to replace the display board.
Hi Brad, I'm sorry I'm not able to find any technical data associated with the error codes you've given. Have you had any luck finding what these codes indicate?
@@GraceAppliance Disregarding the codes considering my original problems. Does it appear the display board was going bad. And that the codes appeared a few days later after I removed the display panel for visual troubleshooting. I just cycled power to the refrigerator and now I have no display but I can still hear the compressor running.
Brad Miller the short answer is that it’s going to be a tough call to determine if it’s a failed touch panel or main control board. I would start with inspecting the connections between the main board and touch panel. It almost seems to be a poor connection. I can count on one hand the number of front touch panels I’ve had to replace, but can’t count the number of main boards I’ve replaced. However, you’ll find (usually under the top hinge of the door the touch panel is on) a cover you can remove to expose a multi pin connector which is the harness for the touch panel. I’d disconnect and reconnect this connector 10x to see if it might resolve a connection issue. Also, look closely for damaged wires or corrosion. These tend to be troublesome because the door moves these wires any time the door is opened / shut and creates connection issues over time. Let me know that helps at all. Andy
@@GraceAppliance There is a Dispenser control board PT#WR55X29507 located on the very top of the door just right of the left door hinge. It was determine to be bad. After replacement all functions are back in service. The freezer light is also back working. Thanks for pointing me into the right direction. Hope this post helps someone else.
Brad Miller wow! Nice work. I have not come across this particular failure yet out in the field. Seems reasonable given your symptoms that that would be the trouble maker. They had to go and get fancy with it. So dumb. Thanks for the follow up and am glad you got it sorted out! Stay in touch, Andy If you’ve found this ad-free information helpful, please consider a $1 donation to help support the TH-cam channel at: www.paypal.com/donate/?token=p_-S29vsNHZsyxBt-llMSH_zJe4utLKcfvVRiZJHP0vIM5ldZMsdxPh9xywqckuI65fdq0&country.x=US&locale.x=US
HELLO, i watched all ur videos hav a ge sxs pss26sgpass with a intermitent problem ,changed the defrost limiter sensor bec the top waz popped puit bac together evap fan wouldnt run comp is running,,cond fan is voltage is 5.4 volts..e fan 12.5 volts..wasnt running but now is...I.m guessing i should repace e fan motor ,control board & c fan motor,,please advise.i will pay you.thanx, steve
Hey, I'd replace the board, defrost thermostat and evaporator fan for sure. The hi limit thermostat likely blew because the heater stated on too long. This could be caused by a failed board or thermostat. I'd hold off on the condenser fan for now as they are less likely to cause this issue. Also, before replacing the board, if you wanted to unplug the fans from the main control board and take a voltage reading on the pins directly on the board you may find that your full voltage has returned because the fans were robbing the voltage from the board. If so, you can hold off on the board. Let me know if you have any questions. Andy
GE side by side refrigerator. WR55X10942P control board. Control board makes clicking noise and refrigerator will NOT start. I removed the J13 connector (Water and ice dispenser) and refrigerator works. Do I need to replace the control board or check something else. Thanks
@@thanoskontonassios5088 Hey, So based on the symptom, it appears that the front touch panel is shorted. Once the shorted component is removed from the system the fridge goes back to working as expected. The part appears to be discontinued, but I was able to find one on Ebay which claims to be new. I hope it's helpful. Thanks! www.ebay.com/itm/125128922271?hash=item1d2243d49f:g:RhgAAOSwsAth-Yqx
@@thanoskontonassios5088 correct. J4 is the communications plug between the main board and the front touch panel. By unplugging the J4 connector you removed the shorted touch panel from the system. Alternatively, You can confirm this by removing the front panel from the fridge and disconnecting at that plug.
My control board started clicking and the numbers on the touch panel started blinking, compressor not starting. Then I replaced the control board - compressor starts, lights on the touch panel not blinking, but the temperature does not reach the setpoints. Replaced the evaporator fan. Plugged back in - the fan started spinning - I am happy. Pulled the plug out, installed the covers/panels back, plugged back in (did not touch any harnesses, etc.) - and - darn! Not working. The lightbulbs inside the fridge work, but the touch panel does not, compressor does not start. How did it happen? What could have happened? It was working before I installed the covers/trim back in... My guess - when the fridge was plugged in for about 20 seconds and evaporator fan was spinning, I pulled the plug out. Perhaps, during the time, when compressor was about to start. It may overloaded the board and burned it. However, the capacitors look fine and the fuse too. I don't have a multimeter on me... So, any ideas what could have happened? Any thoughts - appreciated.
Hey, I'd start (with the fridge unplugged) remove each of the plugs one at a time, then restore power to see if there is an improvement with the fridge operation. Be sure not to touch anything on the board while it's plugged in of course. Another plug that you can check is a white connector near the freezer hinge behind the kick panel. Look for broken wires or corrosion build up here. Let me know what you find. Thanks, Andy
Hey Glen, When you say lower fan, do you mean the fan inside the refrigerator section or the fan behind your refrigerator near the compressor? You have a dual evaporator refrigerator which has a fan inside the freezer, refrigerator, and then one behind the refrigerator (condenser fan). The condenser fan will run when your compressor runs. If it isn't running and the comrpessor is, that would certainly cause the refrigerator (and freezer) section to run hotter than normal. Also, you might notice that the dividing wall between the freezer and fridge would be warm/hot to the touch. If your freezer temp is ok (i.e. 0'F, and keeping everything frozen rock solid) but the fridge section is warm, i'd want to know if the evaporator fan inside the refrigerator section is turning. If both cabinets are warmer than normal (i.e. 0'F for freezer & 38'F for refrigerator) then the condenser fan behind the refrigerator may be suspect. I'll be honest in saying I haven't had too much experience with this particular fridge when it comes to the diagnostics steps, but here is what is in the tech sheet for your particular model: "To enter the self-diagnosis mode, press and hold in the HOME, CRUSHED, and WATER pads. The SELF DIAGNOSIS screen will appear. Press SOFTWARE VERSION, FACTORY TEST, or HMI TEST. Select EXIT to exit the self diagnosis mode. FACTORY TEST All Fans - turns on ALL interior fans (fresh food, freezer, beverage center, and QuickFreeze™ fans). Calibrate - calibrates the touch screen assembly of LCD screen Scan Screen - Starts LCD screen quality scan. Operates the water, crushed, cube, and lock LEDs. Opens and closes dispenser duct door and turns dispenser light LEDs on and off. Back - Returns to Self Diagnosis screen." I hope it's helpful. If you need the tech sheet, i'm happy to email it to you. Let me know. Thanks!
hi i have a problem with a ge side by side fridge. i am getting 2.4 volts dc coming from the boar to the ptc board. compressor wont start. please help.
@@fullrangebasshead7055 I'm sorry, that does not pull up. If you could email a picture of it to graceappliance@gmail.com I will try and find the tech sheet for your model and this will help with the diagnosis. Thanks
I beleive that would be abnormal, but wouldn't think it would cause an immediate issue except it may run the fans faster than designed. Do the 2 larger green resistors on the control board appear to be brown or black?
@@GraceAppliance They both look ok to me My problem is the temperature control is not working Model PDS22SBSALSS Interior lights is on the rest is not I checked main board has power 120 volt But from main to temperature control has 15-17 volt fluctuating My concern is if I put a new TCB will they burn out ? BTW is this is the right part WG03F00507? Thanks again Bandy
@@bandyfong7228 hey, I'm sorry I'm not at a place right now I can confirm the part number but I will when I get home. I'm leaning toward a failed front touch panel. Try unplugging the plug from the main board and see if the refrigerator comes on then. Let me know what happens.
@@GraceAppliance I tried unplug no luck I took the main board out and found a burnt spot is mark R12 I can send you pic if you can shed some light for me what is that and can I change it myself? Thanks Bandy
bill taylor hi Bill, No, this sounds more like a connection issue between the main control and the touch panel. The most common place for this connection issue is behind the kick panel by your feet. It’s near the freezer hinge. Unplug this and replug it 10x. Check for corrosion. Let me know if that does the trick or if you find heavy corrosion build up. Thanks!
@@GraceAppliance thanks,, i have been messing with the 4 wire plug at the front bottom left, but it 'seems' fine. i will look closer. thankyou very much! i live in a very rural area of Belize and getting a tech to visit is real tough. this all began when the ice and water despenser quit. then after i messed with the 4 wire plug, it began just blinking.
bill taylor that sounds like the culprit to me, but just look closely inside at the plugs pins to see how they look. An option you have is the unplug the fridge, strip these wires and solder them back together. Try and leave as much wire as possible, but if you find that it’s to short, you can add an extra piece of wire where your plug was before to lengthen it some. This way you’re certain there is a solid connection between the two boards. The only draw back to this is if you ever in the future need to remove your freezer door (to fit it though a doorway for instance) you’d then need to cut the harness in order to remove the door. But even that isn’t the end of the world I guess. Let me know if you have any questions.
@@GraceAppliance well,, i had not got to this and then last night it started acting weird. the ice flapper door was opening and closing on it's own and the light was stuck on. so first thing this morning i removed the 4 wire plug and wired it direct. 3 blues together and 2 blacks and one red to one white. now it's back to just blinking zero's fridge works fine and the ice maker does as well, i assume it fell back on it's default temp settings since i can't control it. it's only 2 yrs old but the tropics are very hard on electronics. i am about to give up and just live with it,,,,,
Hey, The fridge has certain components that use DC voltage such as the fan motors and other things that use AC such as the compressor and light bulbs. The voltage is transformed via the control board from AC to DC. I hope that helps.
@@jasonphillips2204 once you remove them, if you have a multimeter you can check the ohms resistance they give when closed. You should receive somewhere under 2ohms I would think. Good luck!
This was very informative. I'm not sure where to go from here. Everything lights up on the front. The Ice door comes open but no water and no ice. It doesn't even try to come on. I unplugged it and now it flashes 00 00. Any ideas?
@@kriskrock3381 so, the zeros indicate an issue that the front touch panel is not communicating with the main control board behind the refrigerator. Most commonly, this will be a corroded or damaged wiring harness near the freezer door bottom hinge. Remove your kick panel from under the fridge, lay down and examine the connector there. You may find corrosion or broken wires. Unplug and replug in this connector 10x and see if it improves things. In dire times, I've removed the plug entirely by soldering the connections together vs having a connector. Let me know how it goes.
My ge fridge dispenser control board lights up but no water, no ice crusher runs and dispenses, ice cube are made but does not dispense. How do i diagnose the problem?
Glen Lynch the bells and whistles are, yes. The means of how we turn on/off compressors, fans, LED lights, etc has gotten more complex. But refrigeration is refrigeration. It’s always amazing to me how little the actual nuts and bolts of cooling a box has changed in 100+ years. In your case, I’m still not clear if it’s both cabinets that are warm. You mention the fridge section is 41’. Is the freezer keeping things frozen rock solid? Did the diagnostics test give any codes? The fan you mentioned is likely for the crisper drawer and won’t have a bearing on the refrigerator temperature, but you have a fan behind the wall inside the refrigerator which defiantly would. I’d start with the basics by checking the condenser coils to make sure they are clear of dust, maker sure you don’t have food blocking vents, make sure all your fans are indeed turning.
Hi Belzi, Please send your model number from inside your refrigerator on a sticker. Also, are both of your fans working? You have one inside the freezer and another behind the refrigerator. Have you put your hand on the compressor to make sure you can feel it vibrating?
Ok, sorry to hear about that, but am glad it’s cooling for you now. The refrigerant is inside a sealed system and of course you have a leak. It may hold for years....or hours depending on the severity of the leak. When you have time, you can follow the steps in this video and let me know what voltage reading you’re getting on the control board plug for the front panel. The red wire and black wire. We could go from there. But, in the meantime, I’d probably let it run for a week or two and see if the refrigerant is going to stay in there before you put too much time and money in to repairing the front control issue. Just my recommendation of course. Thanks
Hey! More than likely you've got a sticking and failed micro switch for the dispenser. The best video I've got right now on how these switches work is this one: th-cam.com/video/9C9G5aBpaYY/w-d-xo.html At the 2:05sec mark. With the power off, you'll disassemble the dispeser to access the micro switch which is activated by the dispenser lever. When you remove the switch, you'll likely find that it no longer clicks when depressed. It's probably going to feel spongy when depressed. Also, another way to diagnose this without disassembly is to slowly depress the dispenser lever and you should hear an audible click when fully depressed. If not, it's a failed switch. Let me me know if you have any questions. Andy
You're most welcome. If it does end up being the switch this is likely the one you'll need. They're notoriously expensive though (for what they are): amzn.to/2DVQuKV Or, what i've done in the past to save a few bucks is to take Samsung switch and cut the lever down with a pair of wire snips. It's the same switch with a longer actuation arm. amzn.to/2DLtCN2 If you purchase through either of these affiliate links, it helps the channel a ton and is appreciated.
Hey, I’d first double check that you don’t have it set to Ohms resistance. Make sure it’s set to volts DC. Also, while the fridge is plugged in, unplug your front control board (or the associated plug at the main control board) If the fridge then starts up, you have a failed front touch panel. Also, you can unplug the touch panel wiring from the main control and take a voltage measurement on the red and black wire pins on the main board. You should be getting a steady 13.5vdc at these two pins. If not, that would be a failed main control board. Let me know if you have any questions. Andy
My GE Profile side by side water dispenser is dispensing water most of the time but sometimes won’t for a few minutes or longer, then works again. The ice dispenser (motor) would run for a second but no ice dispensing, while the temperatures 0 degrees (for the freezer) and 35 degrees (for the refrigerator) will flash on the panel along with the light turning itself on, then it would stop, then it does it all over again for as long as you push in the paddle. I don’t think there’s anything frozen because there’s water dispensing (most of the time). I’ve also unplugged the power from the wall outlet for 30 seconds before plugging it back in but still acting strange. Please help.
Hey Roel, The first place I'd start checking is the dispenser micro switch behind the dispenser panel. When depressed, it should show roughly 0.03 ohms and not change when the switch is pressed down harder. When not depressed it should show an open circuit with your ohm test. Let us know what you find. Hope that helps.
@@GraceAppliance thank you very much for the quick reply. I used to own a multimeter till it broke so I’m gonna have to invest in one again to solve this problem. I’ll let you know what I find asap. Thanks again Andy.
@@roelcruz7586 welcome! The part itself is probably a dollar or two so you may just want to swap it out, but then everyone should also own a multimeter. 😁
@@GraceApplianceso when I removed the dispenser panel I didn’t see any micro switch on the circuit board unless you’re referring to the other side of the board in which case I’ll need a torx screwdriver (that I don’t have) to remove it from the front panel.
Only the light turns on inside, the tempt display goes blank, and it doesn't cool, i dont here the compressor running when this happens.. Its the second time i replace the main control board😭
Ibur Ibur, you can check with a meter to make sure you’ve got 120vac coming to the far right pin on the light blue plug with 3 wires on it. Should he a brown wore. Between this pin and the orange wire on the plug next to it, should read 120vac. If you have 120v, with the fridge plugged in, being careful to not touch anything but the plug on the main control board so you aren’t shocked, unplug the J4 connector for your front touch pad. If the fridge comes to life after unplugging the J4 plug, you have a failed front touch pad. If no change, it does sound like a failed main control board. As far as what causes them to fail, I couldn’t say. They’re pretty awful and prone to power surges, etc.
@@Therian_kitty123 watch this video. At 1:58seconds. Have either of your boards had these green resistors turn dark or brown in color? th-cam.com/video/zbmAqizE128/w-d-xo.html
Hey, your meter will have a setting that is a solid line with dots over it. That's your DC setting. Also, there is a video I've made for multimeter basics that may help if you haven't watched that. Let me know if you have questions!
Ah, gotcha. It honestly depends on the schematic. Some are nice enough to call it out on the diagram for you (5vdc, 120vac, etc) but others simply show you the wire placements and don't give any other guidance. If you have a panel inside the upper roof of the refrigerator section, you can pull that panel down after removing the two 1/4" nuts. This is where they hide the schematic/service manual. Otherwise, it's most often under the refrigerator behind the kick panel.
Hey Donald, Is the refrigerator totally dead right now? No lights on the front panel? Try unplugging the front control board and see if the fridge comes to life. If so, it's a failed front control panel.
@@donaldfleming8373 hey, ok. I'd try unplugging the fan motor circuit. I beleive it's the j2 plug on the main control board. Has a blue wire on the left side of an 8 pin connector. If the fridge comes on at that point, it's a shorted fan motor. Let me know what you find.
Also, I'm not sure if you're checking for the voltage at the main control board or at the front touch panel, but one more thoght I had was to be sure to check the wire connection behind the kick panel near the freezer hinge. These have a tenancy to get corroded and get inconsistent voltage to the front board. But this wouldn't cause a voltage variation at the main board I don't believe.
Hi Justin, None of the voltages measured in this video are going to be AC voltage. Your front board should be around 13vdc. Let me know if you have questions, Andy
Glen Lynch Hi Glen, on this particular model there are no diagnostic codes to run. Your model may differ. If you’ll send your model number I’ll be glad to take a look to see if your refrigerator might allow this.
Hi Jorge, Try this. Unplug your refrigerator. Unplug the connector with 5 wires shown at 1:47sec in this video (J4 plug) Plug the refrigerator back in and see if the refrigerator comes on. If so, your front control panel (i.e. touch panel) is shorted and would need to be replaced. Let me know what you find and I can give you other tips if needed. Thanks!
@@GraceAppliance thank you for the response it is a side-by-side Hotpoint I've changed the computer bored and replaced the fan motor and supco for the relay what I've noticed on the new computer board that is not exactly the same but all the would that make a difference? Thanks!!!
Jorge Rigo Hi, when you say computer board - You talking about the main control board behind a metal panel behind the refrigerator, correct? Should have been part number WR55x10942P probably. This is an updated part number and even if your board may not look the same, it's now the correct control board for your refrigerator. You can send your model number, i'll be happy to confirm this for you. But, the reason i'm asking you to unplug the J4 plug from the main control board is that if your front control panel is shorted/failed - it will keep the refrigerator from starting. If you unplug the front control board from the main control board, it removes the shorted circuit, and should start up as normal.
@@GraceAppliance yes the main computer board on the back part number G200D4850G013 that is the part number that I removed from the refrigerator and replacing it with part# 200D4850G022 let me know if this helps thank you for your response and help..
Hi Everybody, Welcome!
If you have technical questions please check out www.Patreon.com/GraceAppliance
By becoming a channel supporter, you'll get priority response to technical questions, technical data sheet requests, and help support the channel so I can produce more repair videos.
Thanks so much! Andy
ge gss25jfmdww
Wow! this guy is different. Unlike other repair technicians; technical jargons made simple, process is methodical and easy to follow. WOw! again!
This is the best video for figuring out how to remove the control panel. I searched through all of them and this one works for the GE Profile, side-by-side model too. It's impossible to get to all the mold and crud inside the ice and water dispenser area unless you remove the panel. It's got to be a lot healthier now that I removed 15 years of super nasty stuff.
You can use long stick cotton swabs (for plastics areas only), damp them in a glass with baking soda or white vinegar then use that swab to clean difficult to access areas. Don't touch anything electrical and off course, disconnect power before start cleaning. there is a way to dismantle the whole system and put all the plastics in bleach but if you don't know how to do it, you can easily beak the plastics pins or loose some very small springs and screws. Always use hand tools, not powered.
Our front touch panel had been out but the the fridge and freezer were fine. The video was helpful. We don’t have the same model but the video did help. We ordered the display panel assembly. We had to order the bracket also because it did crack. We changed them ourselves. Success! Thank you!
Love this video. Short and to the point, yet does a thorough job of helping to diagnose control panel and display issues. Saved me lots of time and $$$.
Andy I don't even have a side by side but I enjoy Your videos. I wish You worked on other appliances too. You really do a good job of explaining your troubleshooting process.
TP Services thanks so much for the kind words and for watching!
I've been looking for a video on this exact issue!!! You just saved me soooooo much money!!! Thank you!!!!!
out all the video's I watched you explain yourself very nicely and accurate outstanding job Andy
Phillip Lopez thanks for the kind words! Stay in touch.
Really helpful for me to diagnose my GE GSH25JSXNSS refrigerator problem, it shows unstable voltage between 3 to 7 volts, changed the control board to get issue fixed
FIRST try powering off and back on. (either the breaker or power cord) good video
Thanks for the video. Mine was showing a short at the main control board (0.24V). When i disconnected the touch panel, I was getting 13.8V at the control board AND the touch panel connector. I am concluding my touch panel has a short on the board, but my control board is still ok, since it’s giving power to the line.
GrockNRoll033 hey!
I’m not understanding how you are determining the short in the board. This would be determined with an Ohm test vs a volt test, but I’m not sure how this would be tested on the board itself.
What symptoms is your fridge giving?
this viedo shows me so much- I thought the voltage would be AC and I stayed away. I replaced my auger motor on my Frididaire FFHS2322MW2 and it and the inside light still don't work; so I'm planning to use the structure you taught to diagnose my problem. Thank you
This set of four videos is very informative, simple to follow, and the explanations are precise. I tried everything on my refrigerator because it seems that everything was failing. It was the control panel. However, the manufacture has discontinued the production of those panels. If someone has information on where can I get a control panel for this type of fridge, please let me know. The model of my refrigerator is GSH25JFXNWW. Thank you.
Thanks so much! The best place I've found to look for discontinued parts such as these is ebay. Sometimes you'll have to pay a premium for a used part, but if you're able to find them it may be worth it.
Good luck!
When I test the voltage of the main control board, it jumps back and forth between 2 and 14V. This is with a new control board. What else can I troubleshoot?
Hi Grace, I have followed your tutorial, and did all the measurements, my issue, is that I recently replaced the evaporator fan, and right after that, when I plugged in the temperature on the front panel on the freezer was showing -43 degrees c, and the fresh food 2 degrees, and at this point the refrigerator was off for more than 24hrs. I test all the thermistors, they are all good. So what seams to happen is, as the temperature provided is so low, the compressor won't start. I got it to start by raising the temperature on the front panel, on the fresh food compartment, and then again turning on, since the temperature at that point on the front panel stats 2 degrees, when I set ti 1 degree, it starts, but than 5 min later would turn of as the temperature on the FF move down to 1 degree, and at this point it would not turn on again, unless I do the same steps again! I test the sensors and power on the board , and I got 5 volts w/ the conector unplugged and 1,5 volts w/ it plug in. can you help? mi ref. is a side by side profile - 200d6823p076
Wonderful tutorial...very well explained and demonstrated. My son has just moved into a house and the appliances included in the sale included a GE side-by-side fridge/freezer. The fridge and freezer both work well but the touch panel does not, in spite of efforts to "reset" it. I applied a multimeter to the black and red "input" pins of the touch panel and it shows no power reaching the board. Unfortunately, when I tried to do the same at the control board, it is not the same as the one featured in your video, so I was not able to identify the "output" wires carrying the power to the touch panel, for testing. Any thoughts? The touch panel features a temperarure selection function. I have a photo of the control panel. Also, if I find that power is "leaving but not arriving"(!) this obviously means a fault somewhere along the connecting wires...what's the fix in such cases? (Specifically, is it possible to re-wire between the control board and the touch panel?)
Tim O'Leary hey Tim, thanks for the kind words, you’re most welcome.
I think you’re on the right track in your diagnosis. It does sound like a poor connection to the front board if indeed you have the correct measurements at the main board.
Now, there is a very common connection to fail below the freezer door hinge. It’s located behind the front kick panel. If you’ll inspect that for broken or corroded wiring, unplug it and replug it in about 10x, that may solve your issue.
If not, let me know and we can go from there.
Thanks!
Andy
@@GraceAppliance Many thanks for the speedy reply, Andy. I will do as you say and let you know how it goes; (it may be a week or so before I get back to my son's place). Tim
Hi, Andy. You may recall that I contacted you here recently about my attempts to identify the cause of a "dead" touch panel on a GE side-by-side fridge/freezer. Because the main control board on the appliance differs from the one featured in your tutorial, I have been unable to identify the two wires I need to check, with the multimeter, for the 12/14 volts going to the touch panel. I was wondering - if it's not asking too much (!) - if I was to send you a photo of the main control panel, would you be able to steer me to the two pins/colours on it that I need to test for the "voltage out (to the touch panel)" ? Many thanks again. Tim O' Leary, Dublin, Ireland.
@@timoleary9514 sure, glad to help if I can. Please send a picture of both the touch panel and also the main control board. Thanks! Graceappliance@gmail.com
Andy, I replaced the mainboard because the temperature was fluctuating and would not hold its setting. I initially replaced the converter board because the compressor would not kick off after I left the freezer door open overnight. Now after replacing the mainboard now the converter will not kick the compressor. Any suggestions, where can I order a set of schematics for this model? Any diagnostics settings that you can share.
Nice video, I'm trying to find out how does the touch pad itself go bad. I have a dishwasher front panel that is bad and would like to fix it without replacing it.
Hi Andy,
I replaced the control board. Now the compressor gets hot but the refrigerator still does not cool. Using a Kill-A-Watt meter the refrigerator draws around 10 amps when initially plugged in and then I can hear the relay click and current draw drops to around 0.25 amps. Does this mean that the compressor is bad?
Thanks,
Brian
It does sound like a locked up compressor. (I.e. the motor inside the compressor) as these will initially pull about 10 amps, but will usually drip to about 1.5Amps once the system pressure equalizes which takes a few seconds. Can you feel the compressor running softly after it draws the 10 amps, or does it not run at all.
A locked up compressor will usually buzz loudly until the overload relay clicks on.
Did you say that you’d also replaced the compressor relays? If not, you may attempt to put on an RCO810 (not the rco410) which is a compressor hard start relay. You may be able to get it started this way and then take the same amp measurement at that point. It should read between 1 and 1.5amps.
If it I’ll then start, but pulls higher than this amp draw, the compressor is on borrowed time, but may run for a time.
Thank you. What if my panel lights up, but not dispense water? I have changed the filter, changed the valve, re-connected wires at bottom, but still no luck. I got water at 3 random times. The panel does light flickering when I press for ice and does not dispense any. I see ice in the tray. Plz suggest any pointers you may have. Thanks again
Hey, I'd first suspect that the dispenser micro switch had failed.
Unplug your fridge.
Remove the front panel, and the white plastic housing secured by 4 Phillips screws. You'll see the black switch that's activated by the panel.
You should hear a soft click when depressed. If it's spongy instead of a positive click, it's failed.
Also it should read about .03 ohm when depressed.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Andy
I have a profile dispenser on my GE side by side. The control panel locks on "water" and intermittently comes back to normal or all lights flash and the alarm goes off. It fluctuates on its own but doesn't interfere with the freezer or frig. they work OK. What do you think.
Hi Kenneth, just based on the symptoms it sure sounds like a shorted out touch panel. Basically it 'pushes' the buttons on its own because the buttons are constantly depressed. That would be my initial knee jerk reaction for a diagnosis.
There are ways to test the button function by taking ohm measurements on each pin as you're depressing the button... However, you'd need to know the pin configuration as it associates to each pin, but unfortunately the tech sheet won't show this info. So, I can't think of a good way to test this theory out without swapping the touch panel.
Just my initial thoughts.
So easy to understand sent this to hubby for his honey do list.
Seems simple enough to test the font panel first rather than the control board. Why wouldn't I just check if 12-14v is coming in there first before looking at the control board in the back? (Also I have noticed every GE fridge seems to have a different way to hold in the front panel, some have snaps on the top, some snap off on the bottom (like yours) mine has two screws. If I tried one of the snap off methods I would break something
Hi, we just had our fridge stop cooling and the front circuit board in the icemaker door panel doesn't light up or work. The interior light bulbs remain working in the fridge and freezer. After an hour, the circuit board in the ice maker/front door panel began clicking. We followed your video and we are only getting voltage readings of between 7 and 9 volts fluctuating at many points in the rear and freezer door connections. We also smelled a very faint burning smell when we checked the rear circuit board. There is one tiny scorch mark on the green of the board under the heat sink. We just aren't sure whether the main control board is bad or if the front control board is bad, as the voltage is low everywhere. Also, the front touch panel/ circuit board is the one clicking, not the rear circuit board. The front door circuit board appears to have no damage. There is minor corrosion on the front door icemaker connectors. But voltage readings were taken on both sides of this connection and it reads the same, as thought the minor corrosion is not really affecting the connection. We were thinking of ordering a new rear control board, but I wanted to see if you might give us advice first. Thank you!
Hi Blackbird Farm,
If you are seeing a burned mark on the rear board, I would start with replacing this one as it clearly has failed. It will likely resolve the issue and most likely won't need a front control board. I can only think of probably 2 times that i've ever needed to replace the front touch pad. But, the main control is more than I can count.
Looking at your handle: Are you a homesteader?
@@GraceAppliance Thank you so much for your prompt reply. We will order the new board right away. And yes, we are homesteaders- A wonderful lifestyle we enjoy thoroughly!
Blackbird Farm LLC same here. We homeschool our girls, have chickens & soon a few turkeys. I’m building beehives over the next few weeks so this is our new adventure soon.
GE Side-by-Side ONLY - Refrigerator Repair Videos That's great! It's a wonderful experience for children. Builds so much self reliance appreciation.
Andy, thanks very much for the detailed instructions included in your videos, they are very helpful in diagnosing various problems. I have an older GE Profile Side by Side (Model PSI23SGNA BS) and recently have encountered problems that I've traced to the front control panel. I checked and the panel is receiving 13+ volts from the main control board. I get no response when pushing the Ice and Crushed Ice buttons (they don't light up) and no ice is delivered. The light above the water button is on but no water is delivered from the spout. The Light button and Lock Control buttons operate normally. The front control panel on my unit is 197D4576G012. I have found similar panels on eBay with part number 197D4576G019. I'm wondering if these parts are interchangeable or if I'm required to locate a G012 version of the part. Also, if you know of any other sources for this part that information would be appreciated.
Thanks again,
J Mason
Hi James, I'm sorry to hear about that!
Unfortunately, I am not aware of these boards are interchangeable or not. I do not know of a means by which to cross reference the parts against each other. I do not beleive there is such a list.
Sorry to say.
@@GraceAppliance Andy, thanks for the fast response. I guess that I'll just keep searching for the original replacement assembly.
Virtual hugs!! crossing fingers, toes and eyes praying this works!! thank you.... stay tuned lol
LoL! Fingers crossed here too. Let me know if you hit any snags.
@@GraceAppliance
If the main control board has 7-10v it's a failed test bad main control board. Is there anything else that could cause the main control board to test at 7-10v? the wall outlet is functioning properly.
Thanks for your help and videos. Helps me catch up on the new stuff. Some a/c units have mutha boards and sensors.
Great info! I have GE GSL22JFTA BS with similar display, but doesn't release like shown, any advice would be appreciated
In my case I don't get the correct voltage with J4 plugged in and it won't turn on. As soon as I disconnect J4 it turns on and the pins have correct voltage.
I've disconnected the conector on the bottom of the freezer door, and with J4 plugged it's the same deal.
I changed main board, changed dispenser board. Same issue... can it be the cables itself? Will the fridge not turn on if there is no dispenser board present?
Hey Andy, I have a problem with my GE side by side refrigerator (Model# GSH25ISXBSS). I set the temp control to the recommended temps (0 freezer, 37 fridge) but the actual is way to low, -5 and 25 degs. I have replaced 2 of the 3 temp sensors and the main control board. The only temp sensor that I didn't replace is the at the bottom of the freezer. Could that be my problem or maybe the dispenser control board. If you think it is possibly the board, I think you do board repairs, would you have one? I am having a hard time finding one. GE is not making this board anymore. This has been a real chore for this old man but will "getherdone" if the Good Lord let me live long enough. Thanks up front for the help. I have watched all you videos many times. You bring it down to earth even to where I can understand.
Thanks again Mike
Hi Andy,
First thank you for your videos. They are very good but I still have a question. My GE side by side stopped cooling. Both the evaporator and condenser fans run but the compressor does not run and is cool to the touch. I removed the starter relay and tested for continuity between the 3 terminals on the compressor, there was continuity between all 3 terminals. Next I checked for short between the compressor terminals and chassis, there was no short. So I replaced the starter relay and the compressor still does not run. I checked for voltage between the leads that plug into the starter relay and no voltage. Next I removed the cover for access to the control board and found that the control board was blackened under the large relay (832-1C-S) that the grey 3-terminal plugs into. Does this relay just fail or should I chect the defrost system?
Thanks,
Brian
Hey, they do simply fail with age. The relays get old, get carbon build up on the contacts and the poor connection creates excessive heat. Then, you get what you’ve got.
I would start with a new control board and monitor the fridge to see how it does. I would not expect anything outside of that issue you’re looking at.
If you order using the amazon link in the description, this helps the channel a ton. Thanks!
@@GraceAppliance Thank you for your reply. I was afraid that if I just replaced the board that it might fail due to a problem that I have not addressed.
Hi i have a question do I damage a control board that drives a linear motor when I power it without having the motor connected? I have a LG-GS73SDD and it doesn't respond to the internal freezer temperature sensor. It cools to deep and the motor is not switching off. I plan to test the Fsensor and Dsensor but if that doesn't work I plan to add my own Arduino controlled sensor and switch one motor power feeds with a relay. I was wondering if that damages the motor. The other option is to see if I can trick the FSensor en tell the mother board that the temperature has reached its set point.
So if you have a problem with the wiring between the main board and the touch board what do you do?
Great video. I have a GE Profile PSS26MSWASS. The dispenser display was blinking a "0" then it it went dark after a couple of days. The voltage at the dispenser measured 8-9 volts. I could not find a wiring diagram so I assumed it was low compared to 12-14v stated on this video. At the circuit board in the back, it measured 13.6V What would that tell me?
Do I change the dispenser control board in the back of my refrigerator or the main control board? I changed the dispenser control panel in the front and it still have a black screen
Hi Grace Appliance, I have a GE side by side and my freezer is 0 degrees F at its warmest setting and the water dispenser has frozen up. I bought a heater kit to keep the outlet of the water warm. I have 13 volts between the red (slot 2) and the wires on either side (this is the front touch panel). However, the heater is supposed to be connected to red (slot 2) and slot 6 but I don't have 13 volts there (no voltage). Can I connect the heater to slots 2 and 1 or 2 and 3? Or should I be checking thermistors? I checked one of the three at the bottom of the fridge and it seemed OK. This is a GSL25JFXL.
You may want to verify true temp with a separate thermometer to verify thermistor/sensors. But, the side by side GE is notorious for freezing water lines due to insulation breakdown inside the door.
You can help this with adding some insulation to the inside of the door behind the dispenser as well as the heater.
Yes, if you find 2 pins that provide 13vdc full time, those will work fine for your heater.
You helped us figure out what our problem was. Thank you!
Andy, there is some way to re-start the control board for a GE PSW26PSWSS? SOMETIMES WHEN THERE IS NO ELECTRICITY AND IT RETURNS THIS DOES NOT GO ON.
Hi, besides unplugging and replugging it back in, there is not a reset.
I would check the wiring by the freezer door bottom hinge behind the kick panel.
These wires get corrosion and often have a bad connection there.
Next time it’s giving you issues, you’ll need a multimeter to test for the 13.5vdc from the main control board to the touch panel. I’d test for the voltage at main board behind the fridge, and then test again at the touch panel to make sure the voltage is making it to the touch panel.
If voltage is good at main board, but not at the touch panel, you have bad wiring. If you do have voltage to the touch panel, but it doesn’t light up, you have a bad front touch panel.
I hope that helps. Andy
Hello, my GE side-by-side GSRS3KLXHFSV has dead. Front panel, fans, compressor are not working. But only the light inside of each of two departments is working! The voltage on the motherboard is 114 V, so, as in my outlet. Could you tell me please, what is the possible reasons of this failure? Thank you so much.
Slava Glazyrin hey, most commonly it is the main control board that will cause this, but you’d need to rule out a failed front touch panel. To do this, careful not to touch anything else but the plug so you are not shocked, unplug the J4 connector from the main control. If the fridge comes to life this is a failed front touch panel. If there is no change, it would be a failed main control board.
If you need a main board, you can get a wr55x10942 from graceapplianceDIY:
www.graceappliancediy.com/products/ge-wr55x10942-refrigerator-main-control-board
Feel free to let me know if you have any questions!
Andy
@@GraceAppliance Thank you, Andy, for your professionalism! I have only unplugged J4 from the motherboard. There is no changes. And resistance of evap fan is 0,9 om. So, need I replace evap fan either??? Thank you!!!
Slava Glazyrin you’re welcome!
No need to replace the fan. Sounds as if you need a main control board. Good luck and let me know if you run in to any issues. Thanks!
@@GraceAppliance Thank you, Andy, I will try to replace main control board. Best!
@@GraceAppliance Hello, Andy, I have replaced the main board and my refrigerator does work now! You are a wizard, I love you :). Best
This is a longshot but do you by any chance know the sequence of buttons I press on my GE side-by-side to reset the refrigerator my lights are on on the inside but nothing is coming on including display panel. Thank you ahead of time if you can help
Andy,
Loved the videos, very informative and easy to follow.
I have a slightly different problem, would be interested to know if you have seen it before and what the solution was.
I have a 10 year old GE GSL25JFTA BS.
Most of the time it works great, but every time we get a power outage it takes a LONG time to start back up again.
Whilst we are waiting for it to come back up the Front Control Panel is not illuminated and unresponsive, the lights in the refrigerator and freezer compartments work as normal.
It seems to take longer to come back each time, this last time it took more than 48 hours.
It is back up and running again now, but I feel I am waiting for the next power outage.
Any thoughts and advise would be gratefully received.
Hi, most commonly this is due to a weak relay on the main control board. Yes, I agree that board is on borrowed time.
That’s been the only possible cause I’ve seen give this symptom based on my experience. Hope it helps! Andy
www.graceappliancediy.com/products/ge-wr55x10942-refrigerator-main-control-board-1?_pos=2&_sid=b3dff50fe&_ss=r
Andy,
Thank you for the rapid response, especially on a Sunday evening.
I have a couple of follow up questions....
Which relay is giving me problems? Is it soldered in place?
The control board you sent me details of looks quite a bit different to mine? Will it work?
Thank you again.
Duncan Sheppard hi, there isn’t a way with the relays on the board to know which one is failed. They are soldered in place.
The board I posted was looked up by your model number and is the correct part for your fridge. This is an updated part number for many of the models out there. Even though it’s different in appearance, it will work fine. Thanks!
Problem: Our front panel lights up and thus works well, the refrig makes ice, but does not give water when pushed by a glass. What's wrong? Thanks for these videos BTW.
Andy, I have a Ge side by side which dispenses water but will not engage the ice dispenser. Micro switch is good. I was wondering if the ice dispenser door solenoid may be faulty since it doesn’t open only an inch or so. Does the solenoid activate the auger as well?
hi Joseph, what is your model number please?
Model # GSS22JEPCWW
Joseph Folsom thanks!
So, since you have only one paddle that activates the water and the ice, and since the water works, I agree that micro switch is working.
Now, I don’t believe the ice door flapper shares voltage with the auger.
Does your auger activate when the switch is depressed?
I’d start by testing for 120vac at the solenoid. If the auger is not activating, I’d also check for 120vac to the auger as well.
Let me know what you find. Thanks!
Will do. The voltages in these machines work on both vac and dc interchangeably. Power to the touch pad is 13 and some change dc, and 120 vac to the solenoid? How can you only have approximately 14dc coming into the touch pad board and yet have 120 vac supply to the solenoid?
If it’s the touch pad board it shows it being not available anymore
Great video. My situation is a bit different. I have 13v going to my dispenser from the main board and the dispenser has a green light flashing on the water button. No buttons work. Water pressure is fine and the line isn’t frozen. I thought it was a bad front panel board and replaced it but the new one is behaving exactly the same. I ran a diagnostic using the temp buttons (service mode) which reported that the main board is not communicating with the front panel. My gut says bad connection perhaps via the wire that goes under the door. Would you recommend some further diagnostic to help pinpoint the issue? Thanks a lot.
Hey, thanks!
Yes, I'd first suspect the connector near the bottom freezer hinge. You may find corrosion or broken wires there.
If the connector is too far gone due to damage, you can delete the plug altogether by soldering the wires together, but this makes removing the door more difficult in the future if you ever needed to.
I'd start there and see how it goes.
Hey dude
I have GE side-by-side refrigerator with ice 🧊 & water 💧 but I have replace night light still no power to power up new bulb.
So can you show me or show me how to check if light bulb socket good or bad?
Am calling from Houston TX
So grateful for your terrific video....we're going to try it right now.
Aeweome! You're most welcome. Glad it was helpful. Stay in touch if you run in to any issues.
Hi Andy! Great video. My problem is intermittent. I have a GE28GYNCFS Side by side fridge with bottom freezer. Control panel works for a while then stops working. If I disconnect and reconnect power the panel always works again for a while (sometimes an hour or so, and sometimes only a few minutes) and then stops functioning. Suggestions?
Hey Keith, it's likely going to be the main control based on the symptom alone.
Double check the outlet is not an issue by plugging in a different electrical device such as a lamp. This is just to rule out a failing socket at the wall.
I would also want to rule out the front touch panel being shorted. At the time it's not working, if you disconnect the front touch panel from it's harness, if the fridge returns to normal, I would then suspect the front touch panel.
However, based on my experience it's most likely a weak relay on the main control board. As the relays heat up, they do not work as well, but often will from a cold start.
@@GraceAppliance Thank you for your quick reply! I don’t believe it is a wall power issue - I’ve check the voltage at the duplex receptacle and it is 120VAC and even when the front control panel fails the interior lights are on and the fridge continues cooling ok - the control panel just stops functioning and ice dispenser stops. I checked the voltage on the control panel and it stays between 12 - 14 volts dc. I found that when it fails, if I unplug the harness on the back of the front control panel and then reconnect it the control panel resets and starts working again. So I am thinking the problem is the front panel board… would you agree?
@@keithgeorge2541 the front panel if shorted will give the same symptom, but once unplugged the fridge should nearly immediately act as normal. If no, I'd focus on the main control instead.
@@GraceAppliance will give it a try. Thank you!
I do mostly commercial low temp and a/c. Freezer is ok , customer says the refrigerator has not cooled good since she purchased it. It seems like the compressor is not getting up to speed. So I watched your vid on checking the main board so I think I can find out if the compressor is getting the correct control voltage. Condenser is clean. When I push the button for turbo cool is when I get what looks to be a code. Very hard to find factory info on this machine.
Glen Lynch yeah, this machine is definitely more complex than most in that it’s got 2 evaporators, the compressor is variable speed (i.e. an inverter compressor), and it routes the refrigerant to each evaporator via a 3way refrigerant valve.
Since the freezer is doing ok, we can assume the compressor is doing its job.
Without knowing what error code is being displayed, I couldn’t say much more, but the same compressor cools the refrigerator evaporator. If the refrigerant valve is functioning and routing refrigerant to the refrigerator evaporator, you’d need to confirm the refrigerator section evaporator is circulating the air in that side.
If you wanted to send me a message through TH-cam (not publicly here) with your email address I can defiantly email you the tech sheet which may be of some help.
Good vids ! How long should it run without shutting off ? Ge HOtpoint SIde,by side HSM25GFTASA, freezer temp down to 20-, makes ice fine, def seems to work, tested and replaced all the 3 temp sensors (thermistors), def thermostat, new heater (some of these tested good, but i r/r anyway since I 'm in there), took front panel off cleaned off some blackish specks all over the underside of the board and a little on top, its running now, but never seems to shut off ? All the front buttons work fine. EVap fan works, condensor fan works ! Just puzzled as to why it never shuts off on setting 5 5 which is norm or any setting really, just runs and runs, i worry it may damage it ?
Is it running at - 20F when set on 5&5?
That's very cold and should be closer to 0F.
Perhaps a stuck relay on the control board?
@@GraceAppliance Ok, my bad, i meant 20- (less than 20F), it finally did shut off when put on 1 1 on front panel. I guess thats good enough at 15F ? What should the damper door do and when, ops check? when first took cover off damper door it would be full open at 1 1 , and full closed at 1 2 and all other even colder settings like 1 9. now its on 1 1 and just stays full open. Still feel like maybe the temp sensors in freezer might not be enough ohms, is it possible to put say a 1kohm resistor in series with each thermister to make the logic board think its cold enough at 5 5 ? I was down to 0 F when on 5 5 before.
john Doe john Doe I’d be curious to see a picture of the evaporator coils inside the freezer. You’d need to remove the back wall inside the freezer.
I’d be curious how the frost pattern looks. If the compressor is struggling to keep up, it might eventually achive the correct temperatures, but would need to run much longer in order to do so.
If you wanted me to take a look feel free to email the pictures to GraceAppliance@gmail.com
With respect to the resistor idea, It will work in fooling the control, but wouldn’t be helpful in maintaining predictable behaviors from the fridge.
Hi,
emailed frost pic (see bottom).
Thanks for helping me. Pwr cord unplugged. I checked the thermistors at approx 0 (zero) deg F in the freezer, from the back
J1plug wires (not the board pins), results were like:
Pins J1 plugged in J1 not plugged in.
2 & 5 6.6Kohm 10.3kohm
3 & 5 12.3k 47.6k
4 & 5 12.9k 51.2k
Makes me think for this exact Model HSM25GFTAsa that the J1 tests can't be trusted or sensors bad? I know I tested them in all in a cup of ice water and were all 3 getting 14Kohm & above. I would have
thought the J1 not plugged in would be more exact but obviously 2 of them are way out there.
The compressor was pretty hot so I am going to have to limit how much I run it simply by turning it off at the
control panel i think. Starting to think the thermistors are bad but measure good at the 32-35 F area ?
If you weren't able to get the frost pic, evap coils were clear at the top, increasing gradually until at bottom the evap coils were moderately covered (not iced solid). @@GraceAppliance
Hi Andy. Great videos. I have a side by side Model GSS25KSWASS. Started not dispensing water and then started back. Few days later no dispensing water or ice. The buttons on the display were working but no temp less light up. I unplugged fridge and plugged back in and the display started flashing 00 for a few seconds and then started scanning 0. Now Light and buttons do not light up but beep when pressed. I hard wired the molex connector behind the kick plate at bottom of freezer door and still have the same symptoms. The rest of the refrigerators working fine. Cooling and freezing normal and fan in freezer working and I believe I hear fan at bottom on back of refrigerator. Checked voltage on main board and got 13.5 VDC. Have not checked behind display. not sure how to remove the display. Does this sound like a bad main board or Display panel. Thanks for any help.
Hi Jim,
Hmmmmm! You’ve done what I would have first suggested which is to check the molex connector that you rightly identified as a troublemaker.
Now, from here it gets a little dicey to properly diagnose. Since you are not experiencing any issues outside of the touch panel such as no cool refrigerator etc, and you’re also getting the appropriate voltage from the main control - my recommendation is to start by checking for the 13.5vdc at the back of the touch panel. If 13.5vdc, replace the touch panel.
All signs point toward a bad touch panel to me though.
To remove the touch panel, you should be able to place 3 fingers on each side underneath the panel and lift gently as you’re pulling toward you. It should tilt toward you.
If you’ll order through one of the affiliate amazon links in the description it helps the channel greatly. Also, while I’m 99% sure it’s going to be that front touch panel, Amazon has a no hassle 30 day return policy if you catch my drift. wink wink nudge nudge.
@@GraceAppliance Thanks for the quick reply. I'll do that and let you know what happens.
Andy, my part #WR55X10884 was not available on Amazon. I found it on other sites that said it was a replacement for WR55X10724. I can find that part # on ebay. Also WR55X10859. They both look exactly like mine. Would one of those part #'s work.
Jim Johnson hey, the WR55X10724 shows to be a good match. That is what I’d get. Thanks!
@@GraceAppliance Hi Andy. I got the interface front panel and installed it. Still got the same symptoms as before. Does it sound like possibly the main board or are there other parts that can cause these symptoms. Thanks for your help.
GE side by side with bottom freezer. Both ice makers have stopped making ice. Ensured temperature was low enough for ice making. The water dispenser is working as designed, both ice makers are in the on position on the touch panel, no solenoid noise for water, checked water in trays - none. The mother board GFE28HMHDES has an led on the board that is blinking once every second. Weird how both ice makers went out at the same time. The touch pad seems to show all parameters such as turbo control, temperature selections, can shut compressor off at touch pad Est. The paddles in the ice makers are good. Haven't found a schematic anywhere on the unit. Any suggestions?
When thinking through the parts that could affect both ice makers the initial things that come to mind are to double check that there is not a setting on your main control that says icemaker off. Other things I would check are a common water valve shared between the both ice makers. Or perhaps a failed door switch. Some refrigerators will cut power to the icemaker when the door is 'open' so a failed door switch would turn off the icemakers.
Andy, I too really enjoy your explanation of diagnosing the problem.
I have an issue whereby my ice dispenser not dispensing ice. The ice maker makes ice but it doesn't discharge through the bin. Auger move freely. I tested the auger motor and it did not engage with the ice dispenser pressed, light switch pushed off, the auger shaft did not move. I removed auger motor and connected it to 110 ac and it operated good, rotating the auger shaft. I tested the dispenser switch for continuity and it was good. I have a schematic and don't know where to go from here. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Hey Jeff,
It will help me to have the model number and I can give a little more specific advice, but if you've got a single paddle for both water and ice at the dispenser, it shares the same activation switch.
So, you can test the function of the switch by selecting 'water' at the door touch panel...if you can get the water to come out at the dispenser then your switch is good.
It sounds like your auger motor is good since you've tested that to direct power.
Basically the components at play here are the auger, the switch, the front control panel to select either ice or water, and the main control board. Once I have your model I can let you know further.
Thanks!
Thanks! Model is GE GSH25JSRF SS
@@jeffgeorge1624 Hi Jeff,
Your main control board should have J7-1 (plug J7 pin 1) a black/white wire and J7-9 (plug J7 pin 9) should be an orange wire. Your board should be sending out 120v to the auger here when you depress the switch to call for Ice.
Let me know what you find with that test.
Another thing to check is that the switch is still 'clicking' when depressed. Sometimes you will get continuity through the switch, but internally it has failed. The small plunger should not feel mushy and should have a definite click when depressed and let go.
Thanks!
GE Side-by-Side ONLY - Refrigerator Repair Videos
I did not have any reading on the J1 & J 9 with the dispenser depressed.
Your thoughts? Thanks
@@jeffgeorge1624 jeff george do you have a single dispenser paddle for both water and ice?
If it is a single paddle and the water works when the switch is depressed, it should be working when the is depressed too.
I'd want to know the Ohm reading you get when testing the dispenser switch.
If the switch is good, I suspect a failed control board.
Hola Andy! Great videos. Would like to see videos on how to test the touch pad used to set and/or see the temperatures and other settings. Usually located in the top right side of the fridge. Thanks!
R Molina great idea, I own a GE monogram that uses this type of panel. I’ll put that on the list for sure. Thanks!
Great video.
I have GE Profile fridge (Model PFCS1RkZA SS). Lights on user control interface started flashing nonsense last night and interior lights flickered. Reset fridge by disconnecting power for 5 minutes and no change in problem. Today user interface panel lights are dead and fridge and freezer not cold. Checked power into interface board and I have 12-15 volts. So, based on video I suspect I need new interface board. However interior lights do not work and interior fans are on. Is there a larger issue or is it the interface board?
Mark McCollister
To me, it sounds like it would be the touch panel. The reason I say that is that if you’re getting voltage to that board at a minimum it should be lighting up.
One thing I would try to see if you can narrow it down to that is, unplug the fridge, unplug the touch panel and plug the fridge back in. If the fridge comes back to life, you’ve determined you have a failed touch panel.
Here is an affiliate link to order which helps the channel a lot:
amzn.to/30R4g8X
If there is no change once you’ve done that test, let me know.
Thanks!
No change in operation of fridge with touch panel removed.
I ordered new touch panel. To install I turned power off to fridge, waited 3 minutes, installed new touch panel, restored power. Touch panel blinks 4 zeros for about 30 seconds then becomes unresponsive/no lights/appears dead. What should I try next?
@@markmccollister7384 sounds like a step in the right direction the fact that it at least lights up.
Most typically the flashing zeros will be caused by a poor connection at the plug at the freezer hinge behind the kick panel at your feet.
Unplug and replug this 10x and see if this improves the flashing zeros issue.
Also inspect it closely for any corosion on the wires. If it's bad enough you can delete the plug by soldering the wires together directly vs having a plug.
Let me know what you find at that plug.
Thanks!
Went through same reinstall procedure. Now new touch screen is just dead. Retested with voltmeter and 12 volts dc is going to touch panel.
@@markmccollister7384 how's the plug looking under the fridge?
GE refrigerator circuit board making a clicking noise, *click *click, on circuit board. On the same time when the circuit board makes click noise, compressor & condenser motor is making a humming noise. at the same time, the inside light bulb goes dim. When I disconnect the condenser motor, the everything is working fine, and no clicking noise on the circuit board, and the motor is 11.3 Volt DC and has 4 wires. What do you think it is, a bad motor?
Hi Punjabhai Patel,
Please send your model number found inside the refrigerator section on a white or silver tag.
Thanks!
@@GraceAppliance PSHS6RGXCDSS. I've been watching alot of your videos and they help alot. Thanks! When I got there, everything was working fine but it was a very dirty condenser and it was going off on overload. So I cleaned the condenser with CO2 and also did around the motor and through motor shaft. After I turned condenser back on, the circuit board started clicking.
Hey Punjabhai,
I agree, it does sound like a shorted out condenser motor. You are getting the correct voltage to the plug so this says to me that the control board is doing it’s job fine.
This is the condenser motor you’d need, and this should fix your issue.
www.graceappliancediy.com/products/ge-wr60x10209-condenser-fan-motor-for-refrigerator
Thanks!
Andy
@@GraceAppliance the current condenser motor has this number: wr60x10155. Will it work with the one you sent? Thanks again.
Punjabhai Patel yes, it’s the correct fan for your model number, thanks.
Andy, I have a GE model GE28GSKLSS french door bottom freezer that has a malfunctioning water and ice dispenser. All other functions on the control panel seem to work. There are no sounds coming from the ice or water dispenser other than the click of the pedal. The line is not kinked, and I have a bypass filter installed until I get the issue fixed. Is this a dispenser control panel issue?
Hey Todd,
The first thing that comes to mind is a failed microswitch for the dispenser. It’s a small black switch behind the white housing inside your dispenser area. Be sure to disconnect power before accessing it behind the dispenser. You will be able to find it by actuating the dispenser lever and it will be the part that has the slight click to it when depressed.
You can ohm test this switch to test to check for continuity when the switch is depressed. You should get a low reading such as .03ohm - .08ohms.
This is one of the few parts that control both the water and the ice dispensing which is why I would start here.
Let me know what you find.
Another quick thought is that one if your door switches may be acting up. Manually depress each door switch (including the freezer) with your hands to see if the lights come on and off when depressed. If the fridge thinks one of the doors is open, it will not dispense water or ice for you.
Thank you for the advice. I am going to check it out now. @@GraceAppliance
@@GraceAppliance OK, it is the freezer switch. If the light is not functioning properly, then the ice maker, water dispenser does not function. This is the most finicky fridge I have ever had.
I hate that! So dumb.
Glad you got it figured out!
Hello! How can I get access to tech sheets? Sometimes the appliance does not carry it.
Hi Andy, Thank you for the GREAT videos. I have a GE refrigerator GSS25GMHGCES and the control panel LED are blinking zeros, and the buttons are not working and it will not dispense ice or water, as the RED filter change indicator is lighted red. It appears that everything else is working, it is cooling, and I can hear the fan(s) working. Do you think this is just a function to remind me to change the water filter or is there an issue with the control board?
I watch another TH-cam video that showed the GE control board had blinking zeros and in that video, the person replaced two capacitors the control that had the building tops and after replacement, the touch panel started working again.
What do you think is causing the control panel LED to blink zeros, and the buttons are not working? Thanks you
Hi Jon,
Most commonly, this is going to be caused by a poor connection between the touch panel and the main control board. The most common place for this poor connection is at a plug by the freezer door hinge behind the kick plate by your feet.
Inspect this plug closely, unplug it and plug it back in 10x and see if that improves things.
If you find heavy corrosion build up on the pins themselves, you may find it easiest to cut, strip and solder the wires (I. E. Delete the plug) so you're sure to have a good connection.
I'd Start there and if you still have issues, I've got a video that breaks down how to diagnose it further.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Andy
@@GraceAppliance Andy, thanks for the quick response. Reading one of your answers to another question, I unplugged the frig for about 10 minutes and then plugged it in and now the control panel and water and ice dispensing is working again. However, when you press the TEMP button (up or down) they display the temp for a few seconds and then the LED turns off, I don't remember if they use to stay on or not. Is the freezer/frig temp suppose to be displayed all the time? Thanks again
@@phototec yes, that's normal operation. Sounds like it's in good shape to me.
I believe there may be a way to set it up to keep the digits on full time. I don't recall offhand how you can do that, but it will be in your owners manual if it's an option.
thanks! this is useful.
I am getting 13V in the rear panel, but only getting 4V in the front panel. Any idea what might be causing this?
sebcast hey, the first thing that comes to kind is a connector behind your kick panel near the freezer hinge. Check here to see if there’s any corrosion, broken wires, etc etc. unplug the plug connection 10x or so and see if it changes the voltage output for you.
Also, check the voltage with the plug at the front panel unplugged to see if it’s making it all the way to the front panel. This will help you determine if it’s a wiring issue (with the board unplugged in the front) if you’re getting 13v to the wires at the board with the board unplugged, it’s not wiring but likely the board.
What if the touch panel shows numbers but does not allow temperature set points entry and does not show the actual temperature values? Is it damaged?
Nice, can you tell us where the diagnostic codes table2 are for the HSM25GFTASA type of GE Hotpoint fridges, I know how to get into diag mode from the 4 front touch buttons for temp, but don't know the diag codes, or maybe you can just tell me the one I need to diagnose the defrost heat circuit ? THANK YOU !
john Doe hey,
I never put a lot of faith in an error code and tend to test for the particular failures at the suspected components based on the symptoms I’m seeing.
If you’re having defrost issues, this video will be helpful. You’ve got a wr55x10942 Control which is the same as what I’m testing ok this video.
Let me know if you have any questions!
th-cam.com/video/XeZfpB7ok90/w-d-xo.html
Thanks!
Andy
Control board front & back control board are test results 13.27 . No dispenser water & ice , I replaced water intel , switched, housing shield and solenoid for GE appliances. Also replace head filters still no dispenser ice or water.. I need help now ???
Thanks a lot for very helpful videos. Our GE fridge (model#: GSL22JFTABS) died last week (no cooling, no lights). After watching your videos, I replaced the main control board and it semi-works again: both the freezer and refrigerator compartments freeze/cool as supposed to be. But the ice & water is not functioning: the touch panel lights up but flashes two ZEROs constantly (never stops), and the touch panel is not responding to any puches. Any recommendation for the next step. Your kind assistance is appreciated.
Hi, I'd start by taking a very close look at the plug behind the kickpanel by your feet. Remove that panel and by the freezer hinge you'll have a small white plug. Look got corrossion, broken wires, or loose connections. Unplug and replug this and replug 4 or 5 times and see if it improves. Let me know. Thanks
@@GraceAppliance Thanks for your quick response. I cannot find the white plug behind the kickpanel (grill). The only thing there is a water line. All the electric wires (connection of the freezer door) are on the top hinge of the freezer door. Any more hints?
@@mntechspecial I'd do the same inspection at the plug on top of the hinge of you haven't already. This flashing zeros is usually a communication issue between the front panel and rear control board.
If all looks good there, double check the connection at the main board and front touch panel plug.
@@GraceAppliance Just double checked the white plug (on the top hinge) and the the connections on the rear control panel. Nothing seems out of ordinary. They all seem fine to me. I will check the connections on the front panel (I need to learn how to uninstall it first.). Is it possible some bad connection inside ice & water system (such as ice maker, dispenser, etc)?
Josh Sun Hey, keep me posted if you run in to any issues.
Also, could you please confirm what part number of control board you installed?
I want to double check the correct part number for you.
I'm getting 11.4VDC going to the Front Touch Panel, could this be a problem with the main board? The Front Panel doesn't turn on.
Hi, it sounds like the front touch panel is failed. The main boards job is to send power to the front panel and you're getting the correct voltage.
Is your fridge running in the meantime?
@@GraceAppliance No it's not there was a power outage and when the power came back the Front Panel stopped working. Also the evaporator fan isn't working, but thank to your videos I troubleshoot the problem and noticed that the main control board is sending proper voltage to the fans. Also noticed that around both resistors are brown but the board is still sending proper voltage. I'm guessing that the evaporator fan needs to be replaced.
Yes, I agree about the evaporator fan. Hopefully it did not cause lasting damage to the main board.
If you will try disconnecting the front board from the refrigerator and then restore power it the fridge if it the runs as normal, it points toward a failed from board. Let me know what you find. Thanks!
GE Side-by-Side ONLY - Refrigerator Repair Videos Tired it, nothing happened so I’m guessing the front control board failed and the evaporator fan.
MikeJL I agree, it sounds like that’s the case. You’re getting appropriate voltage to both and neither are working.
My top ice maker not working on my dual icemaker GE model GFE28HSHDSS on the display only the " ice bottom on or off" will display the " ice top on or off" indicator not displaying. The water dispenser also not working this is a single ice water paddle unit. The dispenser light does come on when paddle depressed. I checked the freezer roll out drawer switch and the two refrigerator door switches they are good. In the beginning of troubleshooting all of the other indicator display functions were indicating when depressed. After removing the display board for inspection now the freezer is giving a LF code and fridge display giving a LC code. When I depress them for a short period the temperatures are displayed then back to the error code. Do I need to replace the display board.
Hi Brad, I'm sorry I'm not able to find any technical data associated with the error codes you've given. Have you had any luck finding what these codes indicate?
@@GraceAppliance Disregarding the codes considering my original problems. Does it appear the display board was going bad. And that the codes appeared a few days later after I removed the display panel for visual troubleshooting. I just cycled power to the refrigerator and now I have no display but I can still hear the compressor running.
Brad Miller the short answer is that it’s going to be a tough call to determine if it’s a failed touch panel or main control board.
I would start with inspecting the connections between the main board and touch panel. It almost seems to be a poor connection. I can count on one hand the number of front touch panels I’ve had to replace, but can’t count the number of main boards I’ve replaced.
However, you’ll find (usually under the top hinge of the door the touch panel is on) a cover you can remove to expose a multi pin connector which is the harness for the touch panel. I’d disconnect and reconnect this connector 10x to see if it might resolve a connection issue. Also, look closely for damaged wires or corrosion. These tend to be troublesome because the door moves these wires any time the door is opened / shut and creates connection issues over time.
Let me know that helps at all.
Andy
@@GraceAppliance There is a Dispenser control board PT#WR55X29507 located on the very top of the door just right of the left door hinge. It was determine to be bad. After replacement all functions are back in service. The freezer light is also back working. Thanks for pointing me into the right direction. Hope this post helps someone else.
Brad Miller wow! Nice work. I have not come across this particular failure yet out in the field.
Seems reasonable given your symptoms that that would be the trouble maker. They had to go and get fancy with it. So dumb.
Thanks for the follow up and am glad you got it sorted out!
Stay in touch, Andy
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Excellent!! Just had this issue. This is a great help. Thanks!
You’re most welcome. Thanks for watching.
HELLO, i watched all ur videos hav a ge sxs pss26sgpass with a intermitent problem ,changed the defrost limiter sensor bec the top waz popped puit bac together evap fan wouldnt run comp is running,,cond fan is voltage is 5.4 volts..e fan 12.5 volts..wasnt running but now is...I.m guessing i should repace e fan motor ,control board & c fan motor,,please advise.i will pay you.thanx, steve
Hey, I'd replace the board, defrost thermostat and evaporator fan for sure. The hi limit thermostat likely blew because the heater stated on too long. This could be caused by a failed board or thermostat.
I'd hold off on the condenser fan for now as they are less likely to cause this issue.
Also, before replacing the board, if you wanted to unplug the fans from the main control board and take a voltage reading on the pins directly on the board you may find that your full voltage has returned because the fans were robbing the voltage from the board. If so, you can hold off on the board.
Let me know if you have any questions. Andy
GE side by side refrigerator. WR55X10942P control board. Control board makes clicking noise and refrigerator will NOT start.
I removed the J13 connector (Water and ice dispenser) and refrigerator works.
Do I need to replace the control board or check something else.
Thanks
Hi Thomas,
What is the model number for your fridge please?
Thanks
@@GraceAppliance GSS25SGMD BS
@@thanoskontonassios5088 Hey, So based on the symptom, it appears that the front touch panel is shorted. Once the shorted component is removed from the system the fridge goes back to working as expected.
The part appears to be discontinued, but I was able to find one on Ebay which claims to be new. I hope it's helpful. Thanks!
www.ebay.com/itm/125128922271?hash=item1d2243d49f:g:RhgAAOSwsAth-Yqx
Actually I disconnected J4 connector (water and ice dispenser) for the refrigerator to start.
@@thanoskontonassios5088 correct. J4 is the communications plug between the main board and the front touch panel. By unplugging the J4 connector you removed the shorted touch panel from the system.
Alternatively, You can confirm this by removing the front panel from the fridge and disconnecting at that plug.
My control board started clicking and the numbers on the touch panel started blinking, compressor not starting. Then I replaced the control board - compressor starts, lights on the touch panel not blinking, but the temperature does not reach the setpoints. Replaced the evaporator fan. Plugged back in - the fan started spinning - I am happy. Pulled the plug out, installed the covers/panels back, plugged back in (did not touch any harnesses, etc.) - and - darn! Not working. The lightbulbs inside the fridge work, but the touch panel does not, compressor does not start. How did it happen? What could have happened? It was working before I installed the covers/trim back in...
My guess - when the fridge was plugged in for about 20 seconds and evaporator fan was spinning, I pulled the plug out. Perhaps, during the time, when compressor was about to start. It may overloaded the board and burned it. However, the capacitors look fine and the fuse too. I don't have a multimeter on me... So, any ideas what could have happened? Any thoughts - appreciated.
Hey, I'd start (with the fridge unplugged) remove each of the plugs one at a time, then restore power to see if there is an improvement with the fridge operation.
Be sure not to touch anything on the board while it's plugged in of course.
Another plug that you can check is a white connector near the freezer hinge behind the kick panel. Look for broken wires or corrosion build up here.
Let me know what you find.
Thanks,
Andy
Psc25mswass does not go below 41f , what is the lower fan motor for and how is it activated?
Hey Glen,
When you say lower fan, do you mean the fan inside the refrigerator section or the fan behind your refrigerator near the compressor?
You have a dual evaporator refrigerator which has a fan inside the freezer, refrigerator, and then one behind the refrigerator (condenser fan). The condenser fan will run when your compressor runs. If it isn't running and the comrpessor is, that would certainly cause the refrigerator (and freezer) section to run hotter than normal. Also, you might notice that the dividing wall between the freezer and fridge would be warm/hot to the touch.
If your freezer temp is ok (i.e. 0'F, and keeping everything frozen rock solid) but the fridge section is warm, i'd want to know if the evaporator fan inside the refrigerator section is turning.
If both cabinets are warmer than normal (i.e. 0'F for freezer & 38'F for refrigerator) then the condenser fan behind the refrigerator may be suspect.
I'll be honest in saying I haven't had too much experience with this particular fridge when it comes to the diagnostics steps, but here is what is in the tech sheet for your particular model:
"To enter the self-diagnosis mode, press and hold in the HOME, CRUSHED, and WATER pads. The SELF
DIAGNOSIS screen will appear. Press SOFTWARE VERSION, FACTORY TEST, or HMI TEST. Select EXIT to exit
the self diagnosis mode.
FACTORY TEST
All Fans - turns on ALL interior fans (fresh food, freezer,
beverage center, and QuickFreeze™ fans).
Calibrate - calibrates the touch screen assembly of
LCD screen
Scan Screen - Starts LCD screen quality scan. Operates
the water, crushed, cube, and lock LEDs. Opens and
closes dispenser duct door and turns dispenser light
LEDs on and off.
Back - Returns to Self Diagnosis screen."
I hope it's helpful. If you need the tech sheet, i'm happy to email it to you. Let me know.
Thanks!
hi i have a problem with a ge side by side fridge. i am getting 2.4 volts dc coming from the boar to the ptc board. compressor wont start. please help.
Hi, what is your model number please? This is located inside the fridge section on the wall.
gsh35jcb bb@@GraceAppliance
@@fullrangebasshead7055 I'm sorry, that does not pull up.
If you could email a picture of it to graceappliance@gmail.com I will try and find the tech sheet for your model and this will help with the diagnosis. Thanks
Will this make you fridge not cool and feeeze
Hi what happened if you have more than 13-14 volt said 15-17 volt from main board to temperature control board is that normal mean main board is ok?
I beleive that would be abnormal, but wouldn't think it would cause an immediate issue except it may run the fans faster than designed. Do the 2 larger green resistors on the control board appear to be brown or black?
@@GraceAppliance They both look ok to me
My problem is the temperature control is not working Model PDS22SBSALSS
Interior lights is on the rest is not
I checked main board has power 120 volt
But from main to temperature control has 15-17 volt fluctuating
My concern is if I put a new TCB will they burn out ?
BTW is this is the right part WG03F00507?
Thanks again
Bandy
@@bandyfong7228 hey, I'm sorry I'm not at a place right now I can confirm the part number but I will when I get home.
I'm leaning toward a failed front touch panel.
Try unplugging the plug from the main board and see if the refrigerator comes on then.
Let me know what happens.
@@GraceAppliance I tried unplug no luck
I took the main board out and found a burnt spot is mark R12 I can send you pic if you can shed some light for me what is that and can I change it myself?
Thanks
Bandy
Or is better to get a new board
Awesome explanation. Thank you!
my touch panel does not respond but lights display blinking 'zeros'. still a bad touch panel?
thanks!
bill taylor hi Bill,
No, this sounds more like a connection issue between the main control and the touch panel.
The most common place for this connection issue is behind the kick panel by your feet. It’s near the freezer hinge.
Unplug this and replug it 10x. Check for corrosion. Let me know if that does the trick or if you find heavy corrosion build up.
Thanks!
@@GraceAppliance thanks,, i have been messing with the 4 wire plug at the front bottom left, but it 'seems' fine. i will look closer. thankyou very much!
i live in a very rural area of Belize and getting a tech to visit is real tough.
this all began when the ice and water despenser quit. then after i messed with the 4 wire plug, it began just blinking.
bill taylor that sounds like the culprit to me, but just look closely inside at the plugs pins to see how they look.
An option you have is the unplug the fridge, strip these wires and solder them back together. Try and leave as much wire as possible, but if you find that it’s to short, you can add an extra piece of wire where your plug was before to lengthen it some. This way you’re certain there is a solid connection between the two boards. The only draw back to this is if you ever in the future need to remove your freezer door (to fit it though a doorway for instance) you’d then need to cut the harness in order to remove the door. But even that isn’t the end of the world I guess.
Let me know if you have any questions.
@@GraceAppliance thank you very much, you are being very helpful!
i will do that in the morning,, hard wire it and watch it fire back to life!!
@@GraceAppliance well,, i had not got to this and then last night it started acting weird. the ice flapper door was opening and closing on it's own and the light was stuck on.
so first thing this morning i removed the 4 wire plug and wired it direct. 3 blues together and 2 blacks and one red to one white.
now it's back to just blinking zero's
fridge works fine and the ice maker does as well, i assume it fell back on it's default temp settings since i can't control it.
it's only 2 yrs old but the tropics are very hard on electronics.
i am about to give up and just live with it,,,,,
I don't understand why you set the multimeter to DC voltage and not to ac voltage, since the refrigerator is running with electricity from the socket.
Hey,
The fridge has certain components that use DC voltage such as the fan motors and other things that use AC such as the compressor and light bulbs.
The voltage is transformed via the control board from AC to DC.
I hope that helps.
@@GraceAppliance thank you, one more question how you know if fridge equipment uses DC or ac volt?
@@kamalabbady6778 the component will say on it. Also, 120v AC will use larger wires than DC which will have thinner wires.
My Kenmore french doors turn off on its own. Once I open the door it turns back on. Is that the control board?
Sure sounds like it! But, I'd also suspect failed door switches as well. Perhaps one is shorted.
@@GraceAppliance
Ok thanks. I'll try the door switch's first.
@@jasonphillips2204 once you remove them, if you have a multimeter you can check the ohms resistance they give when closed. You should receive somewhere under 2ohms I would think.
Good luck!
@@GraceAppliance
Thank you
Hello I got a cuestión what caused the litle panal freezer on the GE profile refrigerator on the right door on the refrigerator side
Emmanuel Ibadillo what is your model number?
Do you see ice build up inside the refrigerator on the back wall?
How did you know wich plug you should test?
This was very informative. I'm not sure where to go from here. Everything lights up on the front. The Ice door comes open but no water and no ice. It doesn't even try to come on. I unplugged it and now it flashes 00 00. Any ideas?
Hi Kris, thanks!
What's your model #?
@@GraceAppliance Sorry about that. The model number is GSE25HMHBHES, Thank you again
@@kriskrock3381 so, the zeros indicate an issue that the front touch panel is not communicating with the main control board behind the refrigerator.
Most commonly, this will be a corroded or damaged wiring harness near the freezer door bottom hinge.
Remove your kick panel from under the fridge, lay down and examine the connector there. You may find corrosion or broken wires. Unplug and replug in this connector 10x and see if it improves things. In dire times, I've removed the plug entirely by soldering the connections together vs having a connector.
Let me know how it goes.
@@GraceAppliance Thank you very much. I really appreciate it. I'll let you know what I find out.
@@GraceAppliance so I checked the connectors. No corosion, connection is secure and nothing is loose. Thank you again for the help
My ge fridge dispenser control board lights up but no water, no ice crusher runs and dispenses, ice cube are made but does not dispense. How do i diagnose the problem?
Did you ever find out a solution? Mines doing the same thing right now.
I have been repairing refrigeration for 50 years, the new refrigerators are very different.
Glen Lynch the bells and whistles are, yes. The means of how we turn on/off compressors, fans, LED lights, etc has gotten more complex.
But refrigeration is refrigeration. It’s always amazing to me how little the actual nuts and bolts of cooling a box has changed in 100+ years.
In your case, I’m still not clear if it’s both cabinets that are warm. You mention the fridge section is 41’. Is the freezer keeping things frozen rock solid? Did the diagnostics test give any codes?
The fan you mentioned is likely for the crisper drawer and won’t have a bearing on the refrigerator temperature, but you have a fan behind the wall inside the refrigerator which defiantly would.
I’d start with the basics by checking the condenser coils to make sure they are clear of dust, maker sure you don’t have food blocking vents, make sure all your fans are indeed turning.
I just changed my high-voltage board on my Maytag refrigeratorAnd now my buttons are not working on the front display
Hey my control board isn't lighting but the compressor and fan is working but still no cooling
Hi Belzi,
Please send your model number from inside your refrigerator on a sticker.
Also, are both of your fans working? You have one inside the freezer and another behind the refrigerator.
Have you put your hand on the compressor to make sure you can feel it vibrating?
@@GraceAppliance i got to it today, it needed refrigerant, but the temperature control board isn't showing any display ,yet it is cooling
Ok, sorry to hear about that, but am glad it’s cooling for you now. The refrigerant is inside a sealed system and of course you have a leak. It may hold for years....or hours depending on the severity of the leak.
When you have time, you can follow the steps in this video and let me know what voltage reading you’re getting on the control board plug for the front panel. The red wire and black wire. We could go from there. But, in the meantime, I’d probably let it run for a week or two and see if the refrigerant is going to stay in there before you put too much time and money in to repairing the front control issue. Just my recommendation of course. Thanks
None of the videos I've found online give a clue to how I would remove the touch panel from the freezer door of a GE PSHS6RGXCDSS fridge.
a-m-a-z-i-n-g !!! helped save lots of money thanks
Thank you so much for this.
can you help me troubleshoot a bosch b36cl80 sns/07 control board
Sometime I get water and sometimes the water won't shut off. Is that the board or something else?
Hey!
More than likely you've got a sticking and failed micro switch for the dispenser.
The best video I've got right now on how these switches work is this one:
th-cam.com/video/9C9G5aBpaYY/w-d-xo.html
At the 2:05sec mark.
With the power off, you'll disassemble the dispeser to access the micro switch which is activated by the dispenser lever. When you remove the switch, you'll likely find that it no longer clicks when depressed. It's probably going to feel spongy when depressed.
Also, another way to diagnose this without disassembly is to slowly depress the dispenser lever and you should hear an audible click when fully depressed. If not, it's a failed switch.
Let me me know if you have any questions.
Andy
Thank you!
Now if I can find how to remove the control panel on my PSCS3RGXCFSS to access the switch, I'll attempt the repair.
You're most welcome. If it does end up being the switch this is likely the one you'll need.
They're notoriously expensive though (for what they are):
amzn.to/2DVQuKV
Or, what i've done in the past to save a few bucks is to take Samsung switch and cut the lever down with a pair of wire snips. It's the same switch with a longer actuation arm.
amzn.to/2DLtCN2
If you purchase through either of these affiliate links, it helps the channel a ton and is appreciated.
Thank you again. If you can direct me how to get the panel off my GE PSCS3RGXCFSS I'll order right away
How do you test board when its not connected?
What if the meter needle is bouncing up and back?
Hey, I’d first double check that you don’t have it set to Ohms resistance. Make sure it’s set to volts DC.
Also, while the fridge is plugged in, unplug your front control board (or the associated plug at the main control board)
If the fridge then starts up, you have a failed front touch panel.
Also, you can unplug the touch panel wiring from the main control and take a voltage measurement on the red and black wire pins on the main board. You should be getting a steady 13.5vdc at these two pins. If not, that would be a failed main control board.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Andy
@@GraceAppliance Thanks! I'll give it a try.
My GE Profile side by side water dispenser is dispensing water most of the time but sometimes won’t for a few minutes or longer, then works again. The ice dispenser (motor) would run for a second but no ice dispensing, while the temperatures 0 degrees (for the freezer) and 35 degrees (for the refrigerator) will flash on the panel along with the light turning itself on, then it would stop, then it does it all over again for as long as you push in the paddle. I don’t think there’s anything frozen because there’s water dispensing (most of the time). I’ve also unplugged the power from the wall outlet for 30 seconds before plugging it back in but still acting strange. Please help.
Hey Roel,
The first place I'd start checking is the dispenser micro switch behind the dispenser panel.
When depressed, it should show roughly 0.03 ohms and not change when the switch is pressed down harder. When not depressed it should show an open circuit with your ohm test.
Let us know what you find.
Hope that helps.
@@GraceAppliance thank you very much for the quick reply. I used to own a multimeter till it broke so I’m gonna have to invest in one again to solve this problem. I’ll let you know what I find asap. Thanks again Andy.
@@roelcruz7586 welcome! The part itself is probably a dollar or two so you may just want to swap it out, but then everyone should also own a multimeter. 😁
@@GraceAppliance well in that case then. And you’re right about the multimeter. I need to replace mine.
@@GraceApplianceso when I removed the dispenser panel I didn’t see any micro switch on the circuit board unless you’re referring to the other side of the board in which case I’ll need a torx screwdriver (that I don’t have) to remove it from the front panel.
I have replaced 2 control boards on my GE profile fridge what could be the cause
Ibur Ibur, hi there isn’t enough information for me to answer this question.
What is your fridge not doing?
Only the light turns on inside, the tempt display goes blank, and it doesn't cool, i dont here the compressor running when this happens.. Its the second time i replace the main control board😭
Ibur Ibur, you can check with a meter to make sure you’ve got 120vac coming to the far right pin on the light blue plug with 3 wires on it. Should he a brown wore. Between this pin and the orange wire on the plug next to it, should read 120vac.
If you have 120v, with the fridge plugged in, being careful to not touch anything but the plug on the main control board so you aren’t shocked, unplug the J4 connector for your front touch pad. If the fridge comes to life after unplugging the J4 plug, you have a failed front touch pad. If no change, it does sound like a failed main control board.
As far as what causes them to fail, I couldn’t say. They’re pretty awful and prone to power surges, etc.
Its the second time.1 replace it in 2 months
@@Therian_kitty123 watch this video. At 1:58seconds. Have either of your boards had these green resistors turn dark or brown in color?
th-cam.com/video/zbmAqizE128/w-d-xo.html
Nice video! How do you determine if that is DC volts?
Hey, your meter will have a setting that is a solid line with dots over it. That's your DC setting. Also, there is a video I've made for multimeter basics that may help if you haven't watched that.
Let me know if you have questions!
Yes I know how to read meter. Does it tell you on schematic that it is DC volts or where does it tell you it’s DC?
Ah, gotcha. It honestly depends on the schematic. Some are nice enough to call it out on the diagram for you (5vdc, 120vac, etc) but others simply show you the wire placements and don't give any other guidance.
If you have a panel inside the upper roof of the refrigerator section, you can pull that panel down after removing the two 1/4" nuts. This is where they hide the schematic/service manual. Otherwise, it's most often under the refrigerator behind the kick panel.
Great way go teach thank You !!!!!!
What if the voltage to the front board fluctuates between 5 and 12 volts?
Hey Donald,
Is the refrigerator totally dead right now? No lights on the front panel?
Try unplugging the front control board and see if the fridge comes to life. If so, it's a failed front control panel.
No lights on the front panel just inside lights are on. I unplugged the front panel but still nothing.
@@donaldfleming8373 hey, ok. I'd try unplugging the fan motor circuit. I beleive it's the j2 plug on the main control board. Has a blue wire on the left side of an 8 pin connector.
If the fridge comes on at that point, it's a shorted fan motor.
Let me know what you find.
Also, I'm not sure if you're checking for the voltage at the main control board or at the front touch panel, but one more thoght I had was to be sure to check the wire connection behind the kick panel near the freezer hinge.
These have a tenancy to get corroded and get inconsistent voltage to the front board.
But this wouldn't cause a voltage variation at the main board I don't believe.
Hey Donald, did you resolve this issue?
so 21 volts AC is bad, right?
Hi Justin,
None of the voltages measured in this video are going to be AC voltage.
Your front board should be around 13vdc.
Let me know if you have questions,
Andy
Thanks for the info
How do you check diagnostic codes.
Glen Lynch Hi Glen, on this particular model there are no diagnostic codes to run. Your model may differ.
If you’ll send your model number I’ll be glad to take a look to see if your refrigerator might allow this.
Replaced motherboard fan and condenser and relay I still don't have startup can you help thanks!!
Hi Jorge,
Try this.
Unplug your refrigerator.
Unplug the connector with 5 wires shown at 1:47sec in this video (J4 plug)
Plug the refrigerator back in and see if the refrigerator comes on.
If so, your front control panel (i.e. touch panel) is shorted and would need to be replaced.
Let me know what you find and I can give you other tips if needed.
Thanks!
@@GraceAppliance thank you for the response it is a side-by-side Hotpoint I've changed the computer bored and replaced the fan motor and supco for the relay what I've noticed on the new computer board that is not exactly the same but all the would that make a difference? Thanks!!!
Jorge Rigo Hi, when you say computer board - You talking about the main control board behind a metal panel behind the refrigerator, correct? Should have been part number WR55x10942P probably.
This is an updated part number and even if your board may not look the same, it's now the correct control board for your refrigerator.
You can send your model number, i'll be happy to confirm this for you.
But, the reason i'm asking you to unplug the J4 plug from the main control board is that if your front control panel is shorted/failed - it will keep the refrigerator from starting.
If you unplug the front control board from the main control board, it removes the shorted circuit, and should start up as normal.
@@GraceAppliance yes the main computer board on the back part number G200D4850G013 that is the part number that I removed from the refrigerator and replacing it with part# 200D4850G022 let me know if this helps thank you for your response and help..
@@GraceAppliance the refrigerator has been unplugged for the past couple of days as it has not been working at all