I’ve got to say that these welder review videos that you have done, at least for me, have been the most informative and useful. I appreciate you doing them, and taking the time to look inside the welders, definitely helps when trying to decide on a potential purchase 👍👍
Would've been nice if they could've lowered the max amperage output and worked on the low output on 120v. Though it being able to run 6010 confidently can fill that void if you have to do a high penetration weld on relatively thick steel. Max out the 6010 on the root and cap it with 7018 and it's good to go.
Im glad you did this machine, Im a welder and the one small inverter I own is the esba 180. That said Ive heard a lot of good about this titanium 225 from guys I trust who said its a surprising little machine. I have not talked to anyone who's tried it on long extension cord runs(no power factor correction might limit that?) but otherwise Ive heard nothing but good honestly. Even with 6010. Great video. thanks
I actually glad they have a product like this now I can just plug in and just weld when I have a small project with out plugging in on the main box.😂 and have to do more work.this is more simple and easy to use for small project. But if you have bigger project just use the big machine
That's interesting it is such a power hog @ 110V. I use a Forney 110 ST running at 75 amps for most of my 110V welding. It runs off a 15 amp breaker with no interruptions. Thanks for your usual in depth review. That is refreshing to see on TH-cam.
I thank you very much for your exelent explanation on component’s, more than aniting Elle’s, did love how it starts with not any issue, even much expensive machine l seen have problem to start ; l bought mine today l was about to return it bcs l Trought made wrong buying, l need weld castiron Cumins block l buy this with very tight budget, but you made my heart rejoice bcs now l made good buying stick welder , l thank you very much my brother fro another mother but same father ! God bless you all! Happy holidays! Your humble friend and brother Carlos!
Thank You Very Much Sir, After reading some of your comment section, Your well trusted. I really appreciate you doing this video. Have a good one, Thanks Again 👍
To me, this was a very practical review, and well done. It is a stick welder; personally, you can skip the oscilloscope, and just do another welder or other device. Seems to have good reviews at HF at ~$300, but consistently low points for 120v use. I will be excited to test the HZXVOGEN MIG-250 at $210 to compare (still have not yet.)
I think you have the best reviews of welders on the 'net. The details you show on the Fluke 'scope such as PWM frequency and starting current are excellent! Which, in you opinion, is the best
For under $100, they are all pretty similar. The main thing I would say is to not get discouraged, whatever you end up with. At that price, the amperage reading may not match the actual output you are getting, so don't worry is the amperage you have to set in order to get a rod to run well doesn't seem to match what people recommend to use. Just practice and have fun! In terms of specific machines, they really are all pretty similar at that price range. The Hone 140 amp machine I looked at recently isn't too bad. It is currently around $85-$90 on Amazon ($100, but there is a coupon right now).
Sorry if this is a repeat, but nation electrical code states that any one cord and plug appliance shall not exceed 80 percent of it's overcurrent protection. Ergo 15 amps X .8 = 12 amps. Thats why household appliances in North America generally top out about 1300 watts. With a nema 5-20p cord you could have a listing of 1900 watts, thats why many industrial tools and floor buffers have the flat blade plug you have to cut off so they fit your 16 gauge extension cord 😂
I see no mention that the polarity is reversible on the 225, so am I correct to assume that the polarity can't be reversed? It's not a dealbreaker for me, but could give me some rod choices that a straight positive polarity welder doesn't provide. I don't even know why I think I would need that option, but I am a beginning welder with the concept that with enough bed rails, rebar, and horse shoes, I could come up with a reasonable facsimile of the Eiffel Tower, though not quite as tall. When you don't know what you're doing, the perceived possibilities are endless.
Sure, you just connect the welding cables the other way. The electrode holder and work clamp just connect to the welder with Dinse connectors, so you can connect them in either polarity.
@@bigtb1717 Those are definitely my favorite; they are the easiest to strike and run. I would just like to point out that there are vast differences between different brands of E6010's compared to other types of electrodes such as E6013's, E7018s, etc. I've ran Lincoln 5P+, Lincoln Pipeliner 6P+, Blue Demon, Best Welds, Böhler, Hyweld, Anchor. There are huge differences in not only flux coating thickness (some has almost DOUBLE the flux coating!), but sometimes in the composition of the flux itself. I personally would stay away from Blue Demon & Best Welds, which have a thick blue-colored flux coating. They are the most difficult E6010 to run unless the machine has an ungodly amount of arc voltage.
How well does this one compare to the Klutch ST201iDV? I have seen the Klutch go on sale for $399 at times and I know it has PFC and better output on 120v and runs 6010. I've been looking a either a Klutch ST201 or the Everlast PowerArc 160STi. If this one goes back on sale for $250 like I've seen in the past it might be a runner up for the cost and simplicity.
I would say that if you only need a stick welder and want to spend a bit less, the Titanium really does weld like a premium machine. On the other hand, the Klutch ST201iDV really is one of the best values going. I saw it on sale for $399 the other day and almost made a community post about it. Power factor correction really does help and that welder is a really complete package for the money. The Everlast is an okay machine, but I'd say if you just want stick, the Titanium welds a bit nicer and runs 6010 and the Everlast lacks the power factor correction of the Klutch.
On a 20A circuit, you shouldn't have too much trouble. But be aware, it still draws close to 30 amps when maxed out. So it will trip a 20 amp breaker it you weld continuously for very long. On the other hand, as long as you are giving the breaker time to cool between welds, you may never have an issue. Bear in mind, different breakers sometimes have different trip curves. Some may trip a bit quicker than others when pulling 30 amps through them. If you need to do a lot of work from 15 or 20 amp, 120V circuits, something with power factor correction would probably work out better.
I'm looking at getting a stick welder to pair with my Lincoln pro mig 135. I started researching this welder from Harbor Freight, then ran across Everlast and then Prime Weld. Is there going to be much difference between these three brands?
Probably not a massive difference. Unfortunately, I've only tried one Primeweld and one Everlast at this point. Both were decent machines. I'd say there wasn't a whole lot to distinguish them. The Titanium Stick 225 definitely welded a bit nicer than the Primeweld I tested out, but it was one of the cheapest Primeweld machines and the Primeweld had higher output on 120V than the Titanium.
I going to run a 240v outlet for this welder. I'm thinking about having 40 or 50 amp breaker but I'm not sure about the wire between gauge 8 and gauge 6. It'll be under 25 long. What do you think?
I would no larger than 3/32" rods with this welder on 120V. As for which type of rod, that's kind of up to you and want you want to do. 7014 and 6013 are generally quite easy to start and re-start. I like the way 7018 runs, but it's a tiny bit harder to start, especially when re-starting a partially used rod.
Anyone know if this welder has a rectifier in it and can handle running off a traditional generator like a harbor freight predator? Or will it get fried?
This is an inverter welder. It does have a rectifier, among a lot of other electronics. That doesn't mean it won't run off of a generator. It doesn't have power factor correction, so it will take a relatively large generator to get very much output from it, and if the voltage of the generator fluctuates too much, it could cause issues. But in general, it should be able to run off of a generator.
@@bigtb1717 in your opinion would a 9500 watt inverter generator with 30 amp breaker run this welder on 240 with no output loss? Or would it’s 30 amp breaker be a limiting factor?
I have used the Miller Thunderbolt 160, which is basically the same as the Hobart 160i. The Miller/Hobart is built a bit better and has a much better warranty. The Titanium is cheaper, has more output on 240V (though most people won't realistically need more than 160 amps), and welds FAR better with 6010. I would say that if you want a bit better build quality and longer warranty, the Hobart isn't a bad option. But if you want to save a few bucks and definitely if you want to weld with 6010, get the Titanium.
Have you cut up a weld from a cheap stick welder like you did for the Harbor Freight flux core welders? I’m wondering what the penetration would look like. I’m sure the stick would penetrate more than the little 125A flux machines
@@bojack2740 Maybe that will be my next video. I've been thinking I should do it for...probably two years, lol. I want to test penetration of a 120V stick welder, vs. a 120V flux core machine, vs. a 120V MIG machine.
I am too, but I still have at least one video to make with this welder and I don't want to have to buy another one if it pops, lol. I have a feeling it would shut down in overload or something, but I'm hesitant to find out.
@@bigtb1717 I considered getting one when they recently dropped the price to 260, but I couldn't justify it. I don't need another welder, but it would be nice to have something I could be a little less careful with.
I see two comments about the Husky welder in my notifications, but they don't show up when I look for them. TH-cam tends to automatically remove comments with links. I think I've seen the welder you are talking about before and if it's the one I'm thinking of, they definitely seem similar.
@bigtb1717 Yeah, it was the husky 225. The layout for the front panel is almost identical. The specs were identical as well. It was still in stock then and going for ~$250. Makes one wonder what it costs to make the core unit. I repair automation equipment for a living, and, at least where I work, so much of what is made is the same thing with a different label.
Even thought I really like my Fronius Transsteel 2200, I have to admit that the proprietary TIG torch connector and slightly complicated options for drive rolls and other consumables and accessories is a bit of a bummer. Otherwise, it's a really nice machine. I have used one Hitbox machine which I thought welded better than the Yeswelder MP200 and it was cheaper, but I don't know if Hitbox's quality is consistent or not. The Yeswelder CT2050 cuts WAY better than the MP200 and has way more TIG features, but it doesn't do MIG and has other quirk. It's also pretty expensive, considering. At this point I unfortunately don't have a ton of experience with other multi-process machines. My favorite of the ones I've tried is obviously the Fronius, by a long way. But it's also the most expensive by a long way, so that's not surprising. I've yet to try any of Harbor Freight's multi-process offerings (Titanium or Vulcan), though I've now used one Vulcan machine and one Titanium machine and have been pleased with both. I've heard a lot of good things about the Lincoln 210 MP. I almost bought one when they first came out and were around half the price they are now. Still, I think they are probably a solid option. Partly due to time and largely due to cost, I just haven't tested as many multi-process machines as I'd like. But I have several on the "list" that I'd like to get to eventually.
Hey bigtb1717, I recently was given some Crown Alloy ROYAL 3100 BR.PKG. Phosphorous-Copper ELECTRODEs. And I was wondering if you wanted to test them if I sent some of them to you. I figured it would make an excellent video. There is only one other video on TH-cam and it isn't professional like your videos.
I appreciate the offer. Definitely sounds like an interesting rod. It looks like I can get them from my local shop. I'll see about getting some material and such to give these rods a test at some point. If I have trouble finding some rods I'll shoot you a message and we can work something out. But I should be able to find some. Cheers!
Mabey I bought a bad one, no way does it weld right on 120v not with 3/32 7018 or 5p.i am hoping it will weld right on 220/ 240, another words 3/ 32 and 1/8 th 7018 and 1/8th 5p or 6010. I'm an x ray welder since 1978 and can call any contractor I've worked for and get a excelent review,so like I say I've got a bad one,or your getting paid for a poor story.VLA
It's possible you got a bad one. It does only have 70 amps of output on 120V, so that's something to keep in mind. With that in mind, I had no issues. I am certainly not paid and I even refuse any "free" welders for review or anything like that. All my reviews are my true and honest opinion using machines I've acquired myself.
Unfortunately, it's not practical for me to put all the welders I test through long term usage in order to gauge reliability. Some welders I've owned and used for years and a couple I've given away over the years to folks who have reported back occasionally. But in many other cases I pass the welders along after a bit and never hear one way or another how they hold up long term. It's an unfortunately reality. But most of my welder reviews are going to be based on a relatively short time with the machines. There are exceptions, but in most cases I simply won't be able to say one way or another when it comes to long-term reliability. Honestly, anything can fail and that's one reason why I prefer brands like Miller, ESAB and others that have 3 to 5 year warranties, local service and replacement part availability. Granted, if downtime isn't a critical issue, spending less and taking the risk that you'll have to buy a replacement at some point is going to be more attractive to some people than spending more for a machine with a longer warranty.
And I disagree with your "any welder is good these days" comment, I have found quite a discrepancy in quality and performance in budget stick welders, which is why being a Flux Titanium owner I bought their stick 225, they're made well and perform well. Some companies, like ArcCaptain even inflate their amperage numbers, which is simply dishonest, not to mention false advertising. There are YT videos out there on busting their amp claims, if interested. So no, it is "not" a level playing field with respect to all these made in China welders. Yeswelder is a reputable brand for instance, but I don't believe their stick welds as nice as the Titanium. ...my two cents
I’ve got to say that these welder review videos that you have done, at least for me, have been the most informative and useful. I appreciate you doing them, and taking the time to look inside the welders, definitely helps when trying to decide on a potential purchase 👍👍
Incredible how it's able to run a 6010 with no problem, even after long arcing it.
I'd love to see more testing on this machine. It's quite impressive for the price.
It does have hot start and arc force, its not in the literature. Another guy (welder / engineer) tested it. It's why it's so smooth, I love mine.
Would've been nice if they could've lowered the max amperage output and worked on the low output on 120v. Though it being able to run 6010 confidently can fill that void if you have to do a high penetration weld on relatively thick steel. Max out the 6010 on the root and cap it with 7018 and it's good to go.
Im glad you did this machine, Im a welder and the one small inverter I own is the esba 180. That said Ive heard a lot of good about this titanium 225 from guys I trust who said its a surprising little machine. I have not talked to anyone who's tried it on long extension cord runs(no power factor correction might limit that?) but otherwise Ive heard nothing but good honestly. Even with 6010. Great video. thanks
Would you recommend the esab 180?
I've been eyeballing the esab 180, this machine intrigues me, I need to pass a 6g pipe test, and I'm thinking of getting this to practice at home.
@@sebastiansalas5210it runs 6010s like a champ but the price.
@@bojack2740what about 7018?
@@Stopvotingdemocrat runs them very well as it should.
I actually glad they have a product like this now I can just plug in and just weld when I have a small project with out plugging in on the main box.😂 and have to do more work.this is more simple and easy to use for small project. But if you have bigger project just use the big machine
I’m glad you got around to doing this machine! Thanks
That's interesting it is such a power hog @ 110V. I use a Forney 110 ST running at 75 amps for most of my 110V welding. It runs off a 15 amp breaker with no interruptions. Thanks for your usual in depth review. That is refreshing to see on TH-cam.
I love my Forney, I got it at Amazon for 160. You can’t beat that.
Thank you so much, I recently got into welding and I’m looking forward to this being my first welder
I thank you very much for your exelent explanation on component’s, more than aniting Elle’s, did love how it starts with not any issue, even much expensive machine l seen have problem to start ; l bought mine today l was about to return it bcs l Trought made wrong buying, l need weld castiron Cumins block l buy this with very tight budget, but you made my heart rejoice bcs now l made good buying stick welder , l thank you very much my brother fro another mother but same father ! God bless you all! Happy holidays! Your humble friend and brother Carlos!
I like it when you also show the draw from the wall plug, and the weld cable. Like to know what is actually happening to my wall wire and breaker.
Thank You Very Much Sir, After reading some of your comment section, Your well trusted. I really appreciate you doing this video. Have a good one, Thanks Again 👍
These things are amazing. One youtuber used a miller suitcase on one of these and that was extremely impressive.
To me, this was a very practical review, and well done.
It is a stick welder; personally, you can skip the oscilloscope, and just do another welder or other device. Seems to have good reviews at HF at ~$300, but consistently low points for 120v use.
I will be excited to test the HZXVOGEN MIG-250 at $210 to compare (still have not yet.)
I meant to ask you for a link to your new channel. I did a little searching and couldn't seem to find it.
Great videos & great content, can’t wait for part 2 of the 225 stick welder bigtb1717 🙏🙏🙏
Love mine, I truly believe it is maybe the best stick welder for the money, no frills, just dependable welding.
Thanks for sharing, im planing to buy this one .
You won't be disappointed.
Nice review! 😊
Thanks for another great review!
I think you have the best reviews of welders on the 'net. The details you show on the Fluke 'scope such as PWM frequency and starting current are excellent!
Which, in you opinion, is the best
For under $100, they are all pretty similar. The main thing I would say is to not get discouraged, whatever you end up with. At that price, the amperage reading may not match the actual output you are getting, so don't worry is the amperage you have to set in order to get a rod to run well doesn't seem to match what people recommend to use. Just practice and have fun!
In terms of specific machines, they really are all pretty similar at that price range. The Hone 140 amp machine I looked at recently isn't too bad. It is currently around $85-$90 on Amazon ($100, but there is a coupon right now).
Do you know what the pwm frequency is?
225amps is pretty impressive
Love the voice change 😂
Sorry if this is a repeat, but nation electrical code states that any one cord and plug appliance shall not exceed 80 percent of it's overcurrent protection. Ergo 15 amps X .8 = 12 amps. Thats why household appliances in North America generally top out about 1300 watts. With a nema 5-20p cord you could have a listing of 1900 watts, thats why many industrial tools and floor buffers have the flat blade plug you have to cut off so they fit your 16 gauge extension cord 😂
This is a pretty good welder for a shop or home
I see no mention that the polarity is reversible on the 225, so am I correct to assume that the polarity can't be reversed? It's not a dealbreaker for me, but could give me some rod choices that a straight positive polarity welder doesn't provide. I don't even know why I think I would need that option, but I am a beginning welder with the concept that with enough bed rails, rebar, and horse shoes, I could come up with a reasonable facsimile of the Eiffel Tower, though not quite as tall. When you don't know what you're doing, the perceived possibilities are endless.
Sure, you just connect the welding cables the other way. The electrode holder and work clamp just connect to the welder with Dinse connectors, so you can connect them in either polarity.
@@bigtb1717 Thanks a bunch. Happy arcs 'n sparks!
Could you handle larger projects with this?
It doesn't have the best duty cycle, but as long as you are mindful of that, there's no reason it couldn't handle a larger project.
Hello what size breaker at the panel would be recommended to run it strictly off of 240v, 30 amp circuit?
A 30 amp circuit would work, but I would recommend at least a 40 amp circuit if possible, if you plan to run the welder anywhere near max output.
What was that voice!??!😂😅🤙⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
One of those weird moments when you are alone in the garage talking to a camera and get a little silly. This time, I just left it in. Cheers!
Question: Which brand E6010s did you run with this machine?
Lincoln 5p+. The kind in the metal can.
@@bigtb1717 Those are definitely my favorite; they are the easiest to strike and run. I would just like to point out that there are vast differences between different brands of E6010's compared to other types of electrodes such as E6013's, E7018s, etc. I've ran Lincoln 5P+, Lincoln Pipeliner 6P+, Blue Demon, Best Welds, Böhler, Hyweld, Anchor. There are huge differences in not only flux coating thickness (some has almost DOUBLE the flux coating!), but sometimes in the composition of the flux itself. I personally would stay away from Blue Demon & Best Welds, which have a thick blue-colored flux coating. They are the most difficult E6010 to run unless the machine has an ungodly amount of arc voltage.
How well does this one compare to the Klutch ST201iDV? I have seen the Klutch go on sale for $399 at times and I know it has PFC and better output on 120v and runs 6010. I've been looking a either a Klutch ST201 or the Everlast PowerArc 160STi. If this one goes back on sale for $250 like I've seen in the past it might be a runner up for the cost and simplicity.
I would say that if you only need a stick welder and want to spend a bit less, the Titanium really does weld like a premium machine. On the other hand, the Klutch ST201iDV really is one of the best values going. I saw it on sale for $399 the other day and almost made a community post about it. Power factor correction really does help and that welder is a really complete package for the money. The Everlast is an okay machine, but I'd say if you just want stick, the Titanium welds a bit nicer and runs 6010 and the Everlast lacks the power factor correction of the Klutch.
The machine appear to be A-ok ✅🤙🏾
So this welder would run just fine, without any issues, on a 120VAC outlet, a normal household outlet, correct?
On a 20A circuit, you shouldn't have too much trouble. But be aware, it still draws close to 30 amps when maxed out. So it will trip a 20 amp breaker it you weld continuously for very long. On the other hand, as long as you are giving the breaker time to cool between welds, you may never have an issue.
Bear in mind, different breakers sometimes have different trip curves. Some may trip a bit quicker than others when pulling 30 amps through them. If you need to do a lot of work from 15 or 20 amp, 120V circuits, something with power factor correction would probably work out better.
I'm looking at getting a stick welder to pair with my Lincoln pro mig 135. I started researching this welder from Harbor Freight, then ran across Everlast and then Prime Weld. Is there going to be much difference between these three brands?
Probably not a massive difference. Unfortunately, I've only tried one Primeweld and one Everlast at this point. Both were decent machines. I'd say there wasn't a whole lot to distinguish them. The Titanium Stick 225 definitely welded a bit nicer than the Primeweld I tested out, but it was one of the cheapest Primeweld machines and the Primeweld had higher output on 120V than the Titanium.
I going to run a 240v outlet for this welder. I'm thinking about having 40 or 50 amp breaker but I'm not sure about the wire between gauge 8 and gauge 6. It'll be under 25 long. What do you think?
According to the codes I've seen, a 50 amp breaker should have a minimum of 6 awg copper. 40 amp breaker can use 8 awg copper.
@@bigtb1717 thanks man
So which 110 welder has been the best I.e. amp reading most accurate and possible 6010.
Well never mind. I should have watched to the end before I started typing. Looks like I’ll have to pick one of these up and a klutch tig just to have
Not as much technical info given in your Easy Flux 125 review, but is the 125 built as good?
Unfortunately, I don't have the Flux 125 any more. I gave it away not too long after the review.
Which sticks would you recommend for 120 volt?
I would no larger than 3/32" rods with this welder on 120V. As for which type of rod, that's kind of up to you and want you want to do. 7014 and 6013 are generally quite easy to start and re-start. I like the way 7018 runs, but it's a tiny bit harder to start, especially when re-starting a partially used rod.
Anyone know if this welder has a rectifier in it and can handle running off a traditional generator like a harbor freight predator? Or will it get fried?
This is an inverter welder. It does have a rectifier, among a lot of other electronics. That doesn't mean it won't run off of a generator. It doesn't have power factor correction, so it will take a relatively large generator to get very much output from it, and if the voltage of the generator fluctuates too much, it could cause issues. But in general, it should be able to run off of a generator.
@@bigtb1717 in your opinion would a 9500 watt inverter generator with 30 amp breaker run this welder on 240 with no output loss? Or would it’s 30 amp breaker be a limiting factor?
@@rwboutdoors8867it would not run it at 225 amps
30amp breaker is good for about a 150amp welder
@@bigtb1717 Just out of curiosity, what size generator would you recommend?
I would look at the Predator 9000.
Any thoughts on the Hobart 160i compared to this? Ever used a Hobart 160i?
I have used the Miller Thunderbolt 160, which is basically the same as the Hobart 160i. The Miller/Hobart is built a bit better and has a much better warranty. The Titanium is cheaper, has more output on 240V (though most people won't realistically need more than 160 amps), and welds FAR better with 6010. I would say that if you want a bit better build quality and longer warranty, the Hobart isn't a bad option. But if you want to save a few bucks and definitely if you want to weld with 6010, get the Titanium.
@@bigtb1717 Thanks the response.
Have you cut up a weld from a cheap stick welder like you did for the Harbor Freight flux core welders? I’m wondering what the penetration would look like. I’m sure the stick would penetrate more than the little 125A flux machines
I've been planning to do some testing like that. Just have to find time to get around to it.
They have done it in other channels with this machine, project farm channel, but it was not in depth
@@bojack2740 Maybe that will be my next video. I've been thinking I should do it for...probably two years, lol. I want to test penetration of a 120V stick welder, vs. a 120V flux core machine, vs. a 120V MIG machine.
@@bigtb1717 I'll forward to it.
Does it come with the 120 volt adapter
Yes it does.
I'm curious to know what happens if you have the voltage switch in the wrong position for what you're supplying it.
I am too, but I still have at least one video to make with this welder and I don't want to have to buy another one if it pops, lol. I have a feeling it would shut down in overload or something, but I'm hesitant to find out.
Maybe I'll test it at some point.
@@bigtb1717 I considered getting one when they recently dropped the price to 260, but I couldn't justify it. I don't need another welder, but it would be nice to have something I could be a little less careful with.
I see two comments about the Husky welder in my notifications, but they don't show up when I look for them. TH-cam tends to automatically remove comments with links. I think I've seen the welder you are talking about before and if it's the one I'm thinking of, they definitely seem similar.
@bigtb1717 Yeah, it was the husky 225. The layout for the front panel is almost identical. The specs were identical as well.
It was still in stock then and going for ~$250. Makes one wonder what it costs to make the core unit. I repair automation equipment for a living, and, at least where I work, so much of what is made is the same thing with a different label.
Sweet ! Quick q what chipping hammer are you using in the vid?
It's a wood handle, Atlas "Tomahawk." I got it at a local welding supply shop ages ago.
@@bigtb1717 cool beans looks like I have found a few on ebay, thanks!!!!
After all these welder reviews over the years what is your favourite brand / model / make for multi process?
Even thought I really like my Fronius Transsteel 2200, I have to admit that the proprietary TIG torch connector and slightly complicated options for drive rolls and other consumables and accessories is a bit of a bummer. Otherwise, it's a really nice machine.
I have used one Hitbox machine which I thought welded better than the Yeswelder MP200 and it was cheaper, but I don't know if Hitbox's quality is consistent or not. The Yeswelder CT2050 cuts WAY better than the MP200 and has way more TIG features, but it doesn't do MIG and has other quirk. It's also pretty expensive, considering.
At this point I unfortunately don't have a ton of experience with other multi-process machines. My favorite of the ones I've tried is obviously the Fronius, by a long way. But it's also the most expensive by a long way, so that's not surprising. I've yet to try any of Harbor Freight's multi-process offerings (Titanium or Vulcan), though I've now used one Vulcan machine and one Titanium machine and have been pleased with both. I've heard a lot of good things about the Lincoln 210 MP. I almost bought one when they first came out and were around half the price they are now. Still, I think they are probably a solid option.
Partly due to time and largely due to cost, I just haven't tested as many multi-process machines as I'd like. But I have several on the "list" that I'd like to get to eventually.
How this one compare to amico 200?
The Titanium welded much nicer and was built better. The Amico had more output on 120V, but it drew so much power, it was a bit impractical.
Hey bigtb1717, I recently was given some Crown Alloy ROYAL 3100 BR.PKG. Phosphorous-Copper ELECTRODEs. And I was wondering if you wanted to test them if I sent some of them to you. I figured it would make an excellent video. There is only one other video on TH-cam and it isn't professional like your videos.
I appreciate the offer. Definitely sounds like an interesting rod. It looks like I can get them from my local shop. I'll see about getting some material and such to give these rods a test at some point. If I have trouble finding some rods I'll shoot you a message and we can work something out. But I should be able to find some. Cheers!
Show the certifications.
Have you tried 1/8 6010?
1/8" 6010 works on 240V, but I didn't try it on 120V.
@@bigtb1717 ok thanks
Are you still using it these days?
I haven't used it in a while. I have some additional stick welding content planned and I may use this welder for some of it.
Is this DC only?
Yes. This is a DC output machine only.
@@bigtb1717 thanks
Mabey I bought a bad one, no way does it weld right on 120v not with 3/32 7018 or 5p.i am hoping it will weld right on 220/ 240, another words 3/ 32 and 1/8 th 7018 and 1/8th 5p or 6010. I'm an x ray welder since 1978 and can call any contractor I've worked for and get a excelent review,so like I say I've got a bad one,or your getting paid for a poor story.VLA
It's possible you got a bad one. It does only have 70 amps of output on 120V, so that's something to keep in mind. With that in mind, I had no issues. I am certainly not paid and I even refuse any "free" welders for review or anything like that. All my reviews are my true and honest opinion using machines I've acquired myself.
would you be interested in doing some voiceover work?
I've thought about it. Are you just asking in general, or do you have a specific request?
let me look at a few more videos first... i do alot with trillith...@@bigtb1717
Translation to Amarice
Huh?
Eh?
@@bigtb1717 Fonzee?
@@bigtb1717 Arthur Fonzarelli?
I wanted to know!Is How reliable?? Any welder is good now days but Now it’s about “Reliability and is crucial when buying a welder!
Unfortunately, it's not practical for me to put all the welders I test through long term usage in order to gauge reliability. Some welders I've owned and used for years and a couple I've given away over the years to folks who have reported back occasionally. But in many other cases I pass the welders along after a bit and never hear one way or another how they hold up long term.
It's an unfortunately reality. But most of my welder reviews are going to be based on a relatively short time with the machines. There are exceptions, but in most cases I simply won't be able to say one way or another when it comes to long-term reliability.
Honestly, anything can fail and that's one reason why I prefer brands like Miller, ESAB and others that have 3 to 5 year warranties, local service and replacement part availability. Granted, if downtime isn't a critical issue, spending less and taking the risk that you'll have to buy a replacement at some point is going to be more attractive to some people than spending more for a machine with a longer warranty.
And I disagree with your "any welder is good these days" comment, I have found quite a discrepancy in quality and performance in budget stick welders, which is why being a Flux Titanium owner I bought their stick 225, they're made well and perform well.
Some companies, like ArcCaptain even inflate their amperage numbers, which is simply dishonest, not to mention false advertising.
There are YT videos out there on busting their amp claims, if interested.
So no, it is "not" a level playing field with respect to all these made in China welders.
Yeswelder is a reputable brand for instance, but I don't believe their stick welds as nice as the Titanium.
...my two cents
If it will run 6010 on 120 15 amp. Yeh it's good.