The Most Important Number In Speed - The 60 Foot Time. What It Means And How To Use It
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 มี.ค. 2023
- Incremental numbers didn't start to appear on time slips until the mid 1980s. But since then, they have become an integral part of judging and tuning the overall performance of any vehicle.
Here is how the 60 Foot number was arrived at, and how minor improvements measured there add up to huge differences in overall elapsed times.
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I piloted a Harley Sportster drag bike for a couple seasons in the SG/E class on a 10.00 index. Even on a 5" slick with bars it would launch like it was shot out a cannon, pulling a 1.3 60 ft pretty consistently. Fell off on the top end (a 5" stroke doesn't rev out well) however I won more often by way of the other rider breaking out trying to get me on the big end, I was pretty consistent posting numbers right on the break out. My closest to the index was a 10.003, best time ever was 9.87
And this video clocked in at 13:20.....coincidence?? I think not! lol Great content UT, and, as always, thanks for takin' us along...
Drag racing today is nothing like it was when I was participating in 1974 and 1975. Then the only time that mattered was at the finish and which car was ahead. It doesn't even look fun today.
"My Trans Am only recognizes the 600 foot rule, until then its driving on ice"--Burt Reynolds
What’s funny is that car was slow af!
Object at rest is now an object in motion... Uncle Tony is the physics teacher we all wish we had - teaching with real world examples
I’ve got a 440 duster that does 1.8 60” and runs 8.11, which is really close to those calculations. I’m gonna go play now!
A good 60 foot time is another gift which keeps on giving - just like compound interest!
My 66 Cutlass back in the early 80's I originally had too low a gear at 4:88 for a almost stock 400. I had lightened the car up 900-1,000 lbs and from a 2 grand brake torque it would pull hard off the line thru the 1/8th. It was done after the 1/8 and stopped pulling. I ran it at Byron and Great Lakes a couple times, never remembered any 60 ft talk then. Car pulled much better thru the 1/4 with 3:73's and a set of low profile Mickey Thompsons. Guess my point is that it probably had a better 60 ft with the 4:88's and a better 1/4 with the 3:73's. Best I ran with the 4:88 was a 14:16 et 1/4 mile. Never went back to the track with the 3:73 gear, but it sure felt faster...
3.90 ideal
Your channel makes me miss the 70s and 80s ( I was a toddler in the 60s ) .
I remember going to the local drag races that quit existing on the track and turned into the street . Every stoplight in the city had at least 1 hot rod for every 10 cars on a Friday or Saturday night . I had several friends with hot rods and it was so exciting to race with them in the passenger seat .
That's how I feel watching your videos.
I'm in the passenger seat from days gone by .
Thank You for the flashbacks of my youth .
Had to mention blinking , lol I've started blinking more during this video lol
In sprints and hillclimbs in the UK, we measure the 64ft time. The relevance of 64ft is that if you do it in 2 seconds you’ve pulled 1G in acceleration.
I don’t think this is necessarily true for many circumstances. I think that calculator is trying to say that with optimal setup if 2.0 60’ is the best you can do here’s you ET. The same car which had minor traction differences and has 5 time slips and 60’ times that vary by 1 to 2 tenths is not going to have time slips with 1.5 second differences in ET at the 1320 ft mark.
Yeah, something is really wrong there. I can lose a tenth or two at the starting line just from changes to the air temp from morning to afternoon and that dosn't equate to a second difference in et from morning to afternoon, more like two or three tens. The calculator also seems to struggle with makijg sense of peaky turbo cars or nitrous hits. I have a crappy 1.9 60 ft time with my turbo coyote but still run low 11s, high 10's.
A tenth in the 60 ft equal 3 to 4 tenths at the finish line.
2 tenths in the real world.
@@robertbriggs4176 that’s been my experience with a 300 hp car that runs about 14 seconds. 1 tenth at the 60’ translates to 2 tenths for the quarter mile.
I think the 60 foot and 300 are one of the most important to see what your car is doing.
Hope you feel better Uncle Tony
Fascinating... Never would have 'thunk" it would be the blink of an eye. Wild!
I stumbled upon Wallace Racing along time ago. All thier calculators are alot of fun.
You have to love it when a drag strip gives you your 60foot time but it really is 59 foot time making you think this dragstrip is better than another. Happens all the time.
they have that calculator listed as "Compute ideal MPH and times at 60', 330', 660' and 1000'." if anyone having trouble finding it.
Thank You Tony. I learned something from you that I didn't have a clue of before. What a fascinating performance analysis measuring concept. Drag racing is a new world for me and I am enjoying learning from you. Thank You for sharing your vast depth of details to help us improve!!
I raced sailboats for 25 years and we worked on shaving seconds off of tacking, jibing, sail changes, spinnaker hoists and take-downs. Getting the boat to accelerate early and well after those manuevers, etc.. Lots of practice and constantly analyzing our performance. All those shaved seconds can add up to huge leads at the finish line. But with sailboat racing, you want to have as much speed and momentum as you can crossing the starting line right when the gun goes off in order to break away from the pack and get clear air. And NOT be over the line early.
Regards, Chuck in Florida
Professor Tony should be the name of this channel. Never understood the 60ft time importance in this way as not a drag racer, but enjoy your content.
Even with high hp cars like 1500+HP 60ft is a big sign of what their mph and times are. This place in Texas I think, calvo motorsport builds 1500-3000hp vipers and they have trouble hooking up off the line but the huge torque numbers let them hit 200+ mph in the quarter mile. But just a little slip can make them lose 10-20 mph and up to half a second of time. Impressive to see them pull away from Lamborghinis and Nissan GTRs with AWD and similar HP.
Hey Uncle Tony, I've had my phone since September of 2021, and the screen is still uncracked!!!😆
"horsepower sells engines, torque wins races".
Just a thought, nitrous cars usually out 60ft turbo cars, but turbo cars usually dominate nitrous cars full pass?
60ft. They used to call this the "Hole Shot"
Speed /Mph at the finish line in the 60s 70s was read from the finish line making their trap speed higher. Now they average the speed from two points one before and after the finish line giving a more accurate Mph.
lol my 1.9 60 foot runs a 10.50 1/4 mile. Turbo fwd got a shitty lauch but when the boost comes on it scoots out the back end and reels em in.
Yeah I’m not sure I’m buying this and I hate that since UTG is so knowledgeable.
I have had a couple of 4cyl pickup trucks I could LEAP off the line…but one ran out of steam pretty quick and the other could really only muster low to mid 15s. That’s still good for a NA 90s era 4 cylinder truck (2.2l s10) but that 60’ is not as indicative of 1/4mi et. The other one was a 2.5l s15 but it was all in the T5 it had…once I swapped it was never the same.
Sounds like the car isn't dialed in for a shit. This calculator is setup for a car that has a good consistent setup, with none of that terrible turbo lag
The calculators are based on the vehicle maintaining an average peak power throughout the run. Yours obviously isn't doing that.
@@UncleTonysGarage yup very true. Also due to having more power than the tires can actually put to the ground. Spinning isn't winning 😄
awesome info thanks
Mind blown.
Thank you Sir
I'm hoping for a "how to properly select a torque converter" after the last video. Finding the right stall speed is voodoo per cubic inch.
All reputable torque converter manufacturers will have a sheet for you to complete. You pretty much need to answer everything about your car....cid, compression, camshaft, heads, gear ratio, tire size, what trans, weight, etc. The list goes on. Spend the money once.
@@joejackson9172 I did that but now thinking the GER was a bad choice, have not started the car yet now looking at B&M
8:05 myguy a 25 buck phone case an screen save would do yea good.
I'm brutal on phones and this one is six months olds longest to date,
Out of the six or seven smart phones I've had, two lasted more than a year without the screen cracking.
UT: Why don't you ask A.I. about the 60 foot mark...😆
Haha ask it about skid marks 😂
Poor Tony has a broken phone screen? LOL
This video was great
Good video Tony, good info as usual, BUT, to correct you, we don't all have mobile 'phones. I stopped using one three years ago. Best thing I ever did.
Not always Tony. I would always be really fast off the line clearly beating a guy I knew with a BB '69 Camaro. I would always have him past half track and he would just keep accelerating, usually passing me at three quarter track. So gearing kept his car slower off the line, but he would out torque me. So I can't see how the 0-60 ft applies when power delivery is not always linear.
If all of your combination is correct the 60 foot truly matters. Just imagine if that Camaro had a better 60 foot, you wouldn’t stand a chance at any point but catching a good light…
Freight training someone and having the perfect combination are two very different things
That's how my slow car is, it 60s hard but has no power 1.45 and 6.90s.... the other car 1.40 and 6.40 footbraking both... using the tranny brake it's been 1.35 but still 6.40 but with added weight to stay above 6.40s due to the rulebook
I learned a tenth was a car lengh in a average 12 second car with 100 percent efficiency.
My 7200lb 2wd utility bed pickup runs a 2.6 to 3.0 60ft. It either spins or bogs. I guess I need more tire to try to hook it. Seems if I hook it though it likes to break axles. Maybe I should just stick to being slow 😢
I was not into drag racing in the 70s and 80s I was a roundy round guy
Thanks for the explanation of all this Tony. The whole concept, as you mentioned first up was completely foreign to me. I used to take the car to our "Street drags" back in the early 80s. This was on an official track, and to enter, your car had to be street registered, and supposedly street legal. We only had ET and terminal speed over the 1/4 mile. Anything that could run under 13 seconds was looked at with a sideways glance back then.
Incredibly important 60 feet facts!
you want the converter stall speed in the vicinity of the engine's torque peak, not the horsepower peak!
My daily driven big block 68 Camaro put down a best of 2.19 60 ft. But ran a 12.31 at 113.96 m.p.h. Not very efficient was it. Stock convertor, 4.11 gears, and treaded d.o.t stickies!
Wallace racing calculators are great . 60 ft is where it's at
Hey Tony,
Tim here, gotta say, alot depends on alot of variables.......i have the wallace calc......its a good tool, but dif motors/cars react difrently....my '64 Tempest does 1.53 60fts.....my converter launches well, but the 1000' mrk, i believe the fins lay over, as my best et so far has been 11:17....shud be 11:0's, as i ran a 7:06 in the 1/8......just sayin folks shud know the calculators are a tool, and each combo will be difrent......but overall, GREAT vid for the youngbloods......as we've been doin this for a long time
So it occurs to me while listening to this for the first time, I can't help but thinking you've never done a video on old school Manual Transmissions in drag racing that I know of. Am I missing good content somewhere?
I am thinking of the old show pinks. when they negotiated car lengths at the start
That is the best explanation I have ever heard regarding the value of the 60' and a torque converter change! Thanks a million!
There’s an underlying mathematical truth that’s worth understanding. Any acceleration advantage you have pays dividends throughout the rest of the run so it’s valuable to have acceleration advantages as early as possible. If you have a tiny acceleration advantage off the line and the acceleration is equal after that, you’ll have a slight velocity advantage throughout the run. Because the distance you’ve traveled at any time is the area under the velocity curve, the slight velocity advantage throughout the run accumulates into a significantly larger area under the curve toward the end, so the distance you’ve traveled is significantly greater toward the end.
Thank you for the education. I didn't know any of that.
sixty then have car pull , then entire track run. most Shelf cams are desined for torque and street driving. maybe more about 5 gear changes then 3 speed with a 3000 stall to get you qucikly down the quarter mile.
Tony, never had anyone explain it quite that way. Better understanding than before. You have the heart of a teacher my friend. Enjoy your life.
The result of the 60 foot time is very much like picking the angle of aiming a rifle, based on the potential final range of a bullet.
Admittedly, very many factors are involved which can not be equated to this analogy, BUT in a power-for-power equation, it STILL MATTERS on that 'aim by projection' scale.
The shorter the 60 foot = the steeper the pitch angle, aka the greater acceleration potential.
Of course, with all of the many new factors being input into the final equation, its much much more 'fast-and-loose' and not so much of a 'trust the science' as engine tuning goes along...
But REGARDLESS of everything ELSE...
A shorter 60 TENDS to equal a shorter total E.T.
[ASSUMING that EVERY SINGLE, LAST OTHER factor is equal and unchanged]
UTG concerning drag timing how would you rate the GM 2spd tranny with the Chrys. 904 3spd tranny and would either have a more significant 60ft effect?
Interesting.
I totally agree, most important "getting it out of the hole"
Always knew the 60 was important but I don't think I realized it was that important. Good stuff!
Tenths of a second, are, however, rather 'relative' AND, [at the SAME point] engine performance running through its cycle is ALWAYS variable.
My 4200 pound Buick Roadmaster with a 2.56 open diff takes forever to get moving. The converter is so bad that it will idle uphill from a dead stop. Not a steep hill, but it's still not good. I would love to make it quicker. But it'll never be a drag car. It would be nice to have a quicker take-off though
When entering the HP #'s in a drag racing calculator, should you use rear wheel HP or Engine HP?
lots of calculators ask wheel or crank hp
So Tony why would they make the track that long than? Cayuga Dragway was a 1/4 mile track.
Excellent info.
Hey Tony. Randomly curious - would a power adder such as a big turbo on an otherwise lowish horsepower engine make any difference of that ET in relationship to a slow 60 foot time? Say, you've got enough tire and traction that a "laggy" turbo allows you to roll out before a large turbo manages to spool under fairly low power, then the boost reaches peak and you can maintain traction? I kinda feel like a lot of the big turbo Honda guys have to deal with this, and I've seen it happen.. Out of the box seems pretty unimpressive, but they still pull off a 9 second quarter pass.. I'm not a drag racer, though I've participated a number of times.. Guessing there's likely a ton of variables to my conundrum?
Big turbo honda's and other imports don't often have an issue with turbo lag now a days off the line because they use anti-lag launch control so the turbo is spooled up before the launch. They do have a problem with traction though given being front wheel drive they cant put all the power to the ground so they use boost by gear which is basically the ecu controlling an electronic boost controller and the tuning software allows us to set the boost level for every gear. So maybe 1st gear I launch the car at only 10psi of boost then 2nd gear car goes to 15psi 3rd gear 25 psi and 4th gear 30psi boost. Were limited by traction not hp so the trick is to put down the most amount of power you can for each gear which is why you will see fast fwd cars get beat at the starting line and then slingshot past the other car near the end of the track.
@@GnarshredProductions interesting! Thanks for the reply mate. I entirely forgot about boost by gear, my old ass megasquirt 1 doesn't have any of that fancy pants stuff, and nobody I personally know with a turbo civic has done that. I'd imagine even with boost by gear, if you're making any real power, you probably still need enormous tires and a limited / locking diff to really stretch your legs? Recently only seen a couple really big turbo Hondas at a drag strip test and tune, but unfortunately none of them had been able to make full passes because something broke either at launch or round about second gear. 😒
Tbh, its still really friggin hard to wrap my head around a two liter engine making like 150hp a cylinder lol.
1:25
The 60ft is critical because that in the measurable distance to attain the momentum form standing still to picking up speed?
Sorry the Edit was I fergot to put in a ?
No matter what kind of racing it is, racers know that how well you come out of the hole can, and often does win or lose the race. 60' times in drag racing are extremely important but, track and field runners always need to come off the blocks well and, roundy rounders all know that if they don't get off of turn 4 coming to the green, they have their work cut out for them!
Where does the nine inch tire rule come in?
Or is that no longer a thing.
What's the best way to launch a manual transmission car (Mustang)? Rev it and dump the clutch or ease the clutch up?
Dump the clutch at the maximum rpm where you still have traction.
@@ProblemChild-xk7ix , thx
The real answer is it depends on the car as well as the track conditions that day. That's why it's called test and tune.
Every watch a 4x4 bump an obstacle and not make it. And have to bump it harder and harder? Those few feet means making it or not over an obstacle. Reminds me of my 2 stroke 360 kind of. Catching the power band and riding it out.
With all the intense science behind the 60-foot factor, for me after the reaction response has done its duty, 60-foot times say only 1 thing that equates in the big picture. It's how fast can every pound of that car be convinced to from a standstill get up and get moving accelerating down the track. That's everything in an acceleration event. Most think of the Digs strictly as ET's and Trap Speeds but its not its really about acceleration, which is all this Acceleration Junkie cares about.
Torque gets you off the line and horsepower over the line. Or torque gets the wheels on an obstacle and horsepower gets you over it.
Easy math anyone can do, for every .1 you drop in the 60’ time returns 1.8x off the 1/4 time.
Ex 13.00 1/4 w/ 2.00 60’
New 60’ 1.70: 2.00-1.70= .30 x 1.8= .54
13.00-.54= 12.46
To keep it simple, at the track we figure .1- 60' =.2 at the line, or 2x. Seems to be a good average.
I might have been misinformed but I was told for every 100 Lbs shaved off the vehicle you get a 10th of a second faster ?
Very well said uncle T💯💪💪💪💪
no squirrels to be found this early
But the moose is awake 😉
I used to run 2.3 60 ft in my 68 beetle and piss a lot of ppl off
This is great info for a lot of newcomers great video
Personally, I blame the Mopars.
Mopar to the front!
@@JustMoparJoe just don't wipe back to front 😂
@@MrTheHillfolk I tell you hwhat
@@JustMoparJoe ol Hester says YUUUP😀
I blame the moose.
Oh yeah that a good information 👌
That calculator is wrong
Hey uncle Tony love your videos. I know this doesn't apply to this video but I am running a holley 3310-2 on a stock 89 chevy tbi motor and was wondering if I need to change stock jets in the carb or dial down the fuel pressure. Please let me know if you can. Thanks.
UTG you keep using the term "tight" could you explain in your next video what "tight" is with referring to a torque convertor
Tight is when the converter locks up at low RPM, 1500-2000ish and starts the car moving , not allowing the engine to rev up (street car). Loose race converter may not grab until 5000RPM which allows you to leave at max torque.
If you want a great reaction time, leave on the last yellow!
Which part of the last yellow? As it blinks on, is just on, full on, about to go out or as it fades. This all depends on your own car and your own reaction speed. Lots of practice to get it right.
@@superrodder2002 with my car, I could start before the last yellow comes on and not get a red light
In my pickup truck I left on the flash of the 2nd to get good lights 😂
I raced a 5 speed car, the last yellow had to be full on, about to start dimming to go out. I’d cut a hell of a lot of lights in the .510-.525
All of that changed when they went to LED light on the tree, no more stages of the light breathing on and off... I'd say the switch was in 04 or 05
don't think I trust those calculators as much as you chief, the 60' calc would probably tell you a supra in the 7s should be in 15s
Get better 😊
The problem with slaghammer is it doesn’t have hp. You can put any converter and gears in to get the car to 60 but without hp it’s not gonna matter on the big end. ITs probably making around 350 hp if that. Low compression to much induction isn’t gonna help. I bet if you put a single plain or even a good dual plane it would run better. But I understand your going for a look but it isn’t gonna net you the et’s you want. I believe you said the goal was to go 11s? Yeah I don’t see that happening with a converter and gears but that’s just me. Good Luck
Needs a turbo to go 11s or 10s.
Every one on the bottom is two on the top ! Quarter mile!
Plan Z!!
never been a mopar fan, as a young guy i drag raced, then oval racing. now im old and enjoy road-coarse racing the most, but more then a better lap time or a lower ET i want you to quit smoking so you can make more video's
You deliberately made this video 13:20 long, didn't you?
13:21 you're disqualified 😂
The last second doesn't really matter much. 🤪
@@MrTheHillfolk No he didn't break out. He ran a 13:21 on a 13:20 dial. 🤣
You didn't factor in the tortoise and hare equation.
Where is that 🐿
I wonder if it is corona ut
According to the calculator I'd need 1400 hp to get my 3500 dually cummins to run a 11 sec quarter hahaha 😬
Did you intentionally make this video 13:20 ??
Good video explaining the et's and 60 foot times. I'm really curious on how you came up with the 450-500hp with slag? No disrespect is intended , with 500 ponies and 4.56 gear in the back that thing should be a rocket out of the gate . With the power it has I would think it would've blown through the converter. I have a 3k stall behind my sbc350 and it's no where near 500 horses and I can still foot it to 3800 rpm while stopped and footing the brake pedal. My 21 mustang has alittle over 400 to the wheels and my 1/8th mile time is 7.80-7.95 depending on the day and how much I mess up. With slag being a conservative 500 with 4.56 gearing, I would almost expect the front wheels to lift on launch. I know converter plays a lot into performance. I'm just confused, I always thought the more powerful engine would make a lower stall ( say 2500k-4000), stall even higher due to the higher output of torque. I have a 10 inch 3k stall in my square body in a th400 and if we took that same combo and stuck it in a car or truck with 450-500 ponies I bet that thing would hit 4k. Squarebody has 3.08 gears in the back.
Yah I'm confused too with that car being 2 ft above where it should be lmao 🤣 😂
Why is the channel growing so slow ?
Tony has a cold. I'm 100% sure he's intelligent enough not to have 'tested' ...
In NASCAR tenths are the difference between first and middle of the pack....
Like you said, the formula works if everything is optimal for the 60 ft time you achieve. If you only have problem with your 60 ft, it does not work. You can use that calculator using your weight and trap speed, and turn that in to what the car should be capable of in the 1/8 or 1/4 mile with the trap speed you have. The too tight converter does not affect the trap speed considerably. According to my real world experience with thing like you are facing, a 0.1 second drop in 60 ft will about double at 1/4 mile. So, your ET in the 1/4 will be about 0.2 seconds better. If you cut the 60 ft from the 2.0 to 1.6 with the right converter, you will run about 0.8 second quicker in the 1/8. or about 0.5 in the 1/8. And the mph should remain about the same. Now, it's your turn to prove I'm wrong in practice.... hope to see it soon.
I don't think Tony would say you are wrong. Rather, I think he made the point.
If your 60 isn't what it needs to be you can't make it up later down track