One weekend when I was a kid I broke two mauls and a sledgehammer splitting firewood. I got in so much trouble but I didn't do it on purpose. My dad and I went to the hardware store and he made me pay for a new maul and then he broke it on the first swing. lol He gave me my money back :)
I personally often find it works well to hammer from the other direction, in which the split is perpendicular to me. I've found this to help prevent the wedge from tilting. Also, numerous times when I've missed, hitting in line with the split, the wedge has flown out and almost caused serious bodily damage. It doesn't do that when you're perpendicular to the split, because the wall of wood is blocking it from spinning out that way. For some reason, all that was hard to put into clear words.
He even mentioned @ 5:00 in the video that, wedges are softer and therefore considered "sacrificial ". You wouldn't ever catch me doing it without safety glasses on however!
Worth noting that (here) we use wedges in twos and fours on huge rounds. Start the crack with one, insert another in the end of the crack and so on. You can split monster rounds that no maul would touch. When the pieces get smaller, flip the maul round and split the the sharp face. Its not maul vs wedge here, its maul and wedges. On the metal shards, when the wedge mushrooms over, you will likely find that small pieces of the mushroomed part will fly off. We just tidy up the edges of the wedges on the bench grinder as needed to remove any mushrooming HTH
@@vinlennox7658 No idea why they said not to and also no idea why they're using a maul in the video. Sledge and wedge is the ideal way to cut firewood by hand. I've done it for years. One of the reasons the combo works so well is the larger head on a sledgehammer means less misses and also more weight digs the wedge in faster.
@@prin8724 I’ve been using a sledge and wedge to cut firewood for the past few weeks. I honestly prefer it to the axe. No idea why you’d need a maul if you’re not gonna be using the sharp end.
A big square faced sledge (less chance of missing the wedge) no need even to swing it or force,,, just keep dropping it on the wedge from about 15 inches let the wieght do the work
I have split literally hundreds and hundreds of rounds using wedges but I don't use a maul for impact I always use a 16lb sledge. Your videos always bring me back to my youth because my family had a cabin in the central Sierra all my life and we always had 6-7 foot round logs to split. I got really good with accuracy and with the axe too. I always wanted to chop a log in half and make it look like a saw cut with the smoothest walls possible. I tried to challenge myself when working. I learned to keep an eye out for mushroomed heads on the wedges and keep the grinder handy to grind off the splitting mushroom shards and I never lost an eye!
+Flip de boer Yes that makes sense. I was originally thinking that the twisting deepened the splitting force by using the leading edge to pry but there's no point in that because there's more leverage at the surface. I see that at depth, the pressure/contact would be more towards the edges instead of spread evenly across each whole side.
+Flip de boer the twist also provides more of a wedge with less material used, so less mass to move. hence more of the striking power will be used to drive in the wedge deeper.
Alan seems to be a very cordial person and its good Cody and his family have a good friend around who doesn't mind being a neighbor on camera :) and he is also their house minder when they are out of town from what I understand. He has a nice demeanor and I think he does well in videos with Cody. Kudos to Alan :)
Well, maybe you have introduced him in past videos and its possible I missed that. I just figured out who he was by reading snip-its of the comments today. Sorry :)
when i bought my first honda, i also got an impact screwdriver. you set it on a stuck screw head and hit it with a hammer. there was a twisted rod inside that transferred the force in the form of TORQUE to the screw. Your wedge does the same thing, transferring the impact and forcing the wedge to twist through the wood. It will force the left side of the stump away from you and the right side towards you. This adds a "shear" action to the simple lateral separation normally at work here. Your last split showed this because you had to move your feet clockwise to follow the stump. Beautiful wedge!! (and yes, i do have too much time on my hands. lol)
just got a youtube account 2 mins ago you were the first persons i subscribed too ive have been watching your videos for two years and im so glad i can now participate in the comments and the bible studies and all that jazz i have never disagreed two much on anything you say and am proud to subscribe to a channel with such good ideas and intentions for the first time i can say thank you wranglerstar for all the effort you go to to keep me entertained in every video
well first off, Maul is a Dathomirian Sith warrior trained in Form 7 lightsaber combat. he utilizes sheer strength and overwhelming speed to defeat his enemies. whereas Wedge is an ace pilot for the Rebellion, specializing with the X-wing starfighter. if I had to pin the 2 together, I'd say Maul would force choke Wedge to death before he could even reach for his blaster. however if Maul and Wedge were in starfighters, Wedge would win every time, despite Maul's skill in the force.
Maul vs. wedge, it's really just the flavor of the day for me. I really dislike the maul I currently have, but it can make splitting easy-to-split wood go quicker. I would definitely reach for wedges if I had to strike the pole more than a few times. Some hardwoods are VERY difficult to split in comparison to that douglas fir.
yes but an accident is just that an accident! As Cody has said that's his grandfathers axe which is obviously old and could chip if they missed and hit the flooring. You only get one set of eyes and they're pretty useful when doing stuff like this so safety first every time. Cody safety first we don't want you losing and eye and having to rename the channel piratestar or wranglerpirate 😂
The twist in the wedge would help - it's the same as when you stick the ax in a log and twist sideways trying to break free. Would be really cool if you could do a close-up slo-motion of the wedge working on a strike when it splits. Think you could do it?
I've always found that driving a wedge is much more tiring than taking multiple swings with an 8lb maul. I have a wedge, but only use it for the most stubborn rounds, that are either super knotty or dense enough that the maul bounces off. Even then, I can usually make the maul work by splitting the log around the outside edges and working my way in.
Same here, and if it really won’t split after half a dozen hits I give up and use the chainsaw. Normally you can see if a log is going to be impossible to split by the knots etc.
I love a wedge. I call it hammer and nail. this twisted wedge is my favorite. can't get them here anymore. don't know why.also never use a maul with a wedge. use an 8-10 pound hammer. works much better.
+Brandon Scott Cody said in an earlier video that their neighbour sometimes house sit for him and his wife, and on one of those occasions the neighbor got that axe handle for his maul and hung it. And since he is referring to him in that way I would (without knowing) pressume that Alan is that neighbor and friend :) All the best /Arf.
i once had such a chip fly of a faulty maul and it went into my leg 8 cm deep (about 3 inches). if such a chip happens to impact your chest between your ribs it has enough penetration to puncture ones heart and become fatal. Never use wedges that have such a hard top that chips fly off.
+Tommie D // If I may, it's not the hardness of the top of the wedge. That steel is (relatively) soft so you CAN hit it with a hardened steel hammer. What it's about is, to keep the mushrooming ground off the head of the wedge. Cody has talked about this sort of thing, both on big tools like these, and down to little punches and chisels. It's all the same. Grind off the expanding part of the tool head when it begins to mushroom. My father had a chip fly off a mushroomed wedge head in 1960. It was still there in his arm when he died in 1995.
+Tommie D Recently a chip "bit" me in the leg. The sound it made during take off, and the sound i made when it landed, oh boy. It did a belly landing, so just a bruise. Lesson learned, mushrooming no bueno.
+Michael Dougfir I have a BB grown into the bone of my big toe, from when my twin brother accidentally shot me in the foot with our older brothers BB gun when we were 6 yo, 48 years ago. I found out about it when I was 36, when I got a nail in a dropped board stuck though the same toe. My unlucky toe, I guess. lol I was working with a guy one time that had a two inch chip break off of a mattoch and stick into his cheek about an inch from his eye. So, wear your safety glasses. Needless to say, I grind my mushrooms off practically religiously.
I have 85 stitches in three layers in my right leg from a metal chip which went in to the bone. They had to open the leg up and scrape the bone to get it all out. Happened when I was standing close to someone hammering in a locating pin while replacing the GET (bucket teeth) on a Komatsu front end loader in Western Australia. From this experience, I would never even consider using a steel wedge as shown in this clip for splitting timber (plus the timber we get around here is much harder than what they are splitting in this clip). I tend to cut the blocks short (particularly if they are larger diameter) and then use what we call a block splitter (a maul in the clips).
I stand at right angles to the line of the wedge, and have less trouble with the wedge wandering off plumb this way. Have you assessed your varied mauls for driving wedges? Mine aren't tempered on the blunt end for driving wedges, and I have to bring a sledge with me for driving them, so I don't mushroom my mauls.
My Wetterlings splitting wedge is twisted and seems to work the same way as this one. I believe you are correct that the twist forces the wood apart by transferring force sideways but I think the twist is also what prevents binding as less surface area is in contact along the edges than would be the case in a straight rectangular profile. Great video!
Hey wranglerstar, just food for thought. 5 years ago I broke and dislocated my right shoulder in a bad snowmobile accident in northern MN. With that said I have had to change the way I split wood. both at home and in the field. In the field I use my chain saw and cut big rounds down to manageable sizes. I cut only half way so not to hit the ground. then I use a splitting maul or slug hammer and wedges. This way splits wood very nice for me and the concussion shock back thru the handle isn't as bad either. I've split like this for many years without a problem. If I split straight splitting maul only it's a night of pain meds and muscle rub. Just a tid bit for you.
Hi, Cody. Twist in the wedge acts as extra leverage, as a way to turn the material aside while splitting and also helps the wedge in NOT getting stuck in the material.
wow that wedge works great, out here on the Navajo reservation we harvest alot of pinon pine and juniper to heat our homes. i need to save up and some day get one. thanks for the great video.
Enjoyed your video,I know it's a long time ago,but still enjoyed watching it. Don't know if anyone suggested it, but the twist in that wedge probably gives rotational force to the wood helping it force apart
Those twisted wedges are all we use anymore. I think there's 11 or 12 around here, scattered in our different wood stations. If you watch the wedge will ride on that outside rail on it's way through the wood, a wide wedge on a small profile of contact, penetration and wedge thickness is maximized. We have completely given up on the old standard strait tapered wedge. These really pop open the round. They do require more attention to the mushroom though, but I would much rather tend that, opposed to the alternative. Hammers and wedges in the big rounds is the only way to go, splitting tools after the round is open.
I have wedged a lot of wood over the years. I also have had a steel splinter come off the wedge after a lot of use and they become rolled. I always use safety glasses and from time to time grind the roll over edges off the wedge. However since starting to use a splitting ax four years ago I hardly ever need a wedge.
WS, You should get another wedge of common make and get two pieces of wood maybe saw through a knot so both will be as close to the same as possible and compare the wedges. Hit one then the other see how they compare that way. the twisted wedge seems to have double the spread as you drive it in, its spreading with the down force and then as it twist its pushing out sideways even more.
So when should you toss a wedge out? I've got one that's mushroomed out quite a bit but I don't know if I should toss it and get a new one or go through another year with it
I don't have a education in engineering but I can already see a couple of advantages of this design in a wedge, the twist seems to do two things, first it reduces the contact area which contact the wood and also helps to drive the log apart by it trying to turn slightly and therefore giving it more force towards the sides, but that's just my two cents, it would be great to see a side by side comparison with this and a normal wedge. Have a great day and keep up the great work :)
Basically what you are doing is driving a big screw into the wood and that is what is helping it pop apart. It's twisting in the wood and doing it in an impacting force. Very effective. Great video!
I slightly missed the wedge yesterday and it went flying like it was in a hatchet throwing contest. My 3 year old was outside playing....made my re-think splitting wood outside vs paying 5 bucks at the grocery store!
Love those gloves Alan is wearing! Any ideas where to find a pair that are reliable and don’t fall apart after a weeks wearing? I’ve had no luck finding any.
Being up in BC I caved and bought a log splitter for the Douglas Fir logs but still enjoy a mauler for the Alder and Yellow cedar. Too old for a wedge now too, I'm lucky I only need 7 cords for heat this year instead of 20 last year.
I split all my firewood by hand and it is a very mixed variety I usually use three wedges for large oak and ash two that are flat and one that is kind of star shaped but goes to a point. I would like to try out this style of wedge but haven't bean able to find a website that I can order it from will you be selling these at wranglermart ?
I've recently received a very old American broad hatchet/carpenter's axe that was made here in Bucks County, Pa and found in a very old barn. It appears to have the original handle on it which is very worn and not in the best shape. Where can I go to find the offset handle to use this beautiful axe again? I was thinking maybe the amish/mennonites. Any feed back would be appreciated.
definitely not my choice of a way to split wood. but do love that new wedge. my grandfather is 77 and that method makes his whole body hurt. beautiful video. really great quality.
what a great video. just two dudes talking about something they like and have a passion for. your buddy seems a cool guy :) i'd like to see him again on one of your videos. and i don't even am a homesteader, i live in a big city in sicily, italy, swallowed by cement and i'm likely never gonna have an axe in my hands.
I have found that standing 90° of the way you were, that the wedge doesn't move as much, but we burn only hard wood. Oaks red & white, hickory. On some of the wood the log splitters strain.
Thank you for the video. My thoughts are that the twist makes for a wider wedge overall and that is what is doing the splitting. Again God Bless and keep up the good work.
What brand maul is bruticus? Also, I have a cheepie wedge I picked up at Harbor Freight that looks exactly like this one and works very well. I do use a sledge hammer to drive it so the impact is more spread out on the wedge.
When you get around to needing to break them out again, would you be able to do a more in depth video on splitting wedges and their use? Maybe a bit of a size comparison as well as what the different designs are going to be better suited for? Or which wedges are good to have on hand if you DO end up needing them. Not many videos on the topic. Thanks.
Mr. Wranglerstar, I do believe Alan was surmising along the same lines I was. I think the twist reduces the surface area in contact with the wood. Perhaps this reduces the friction and allows more of the energy energy to be utilized in the actual splitting of the log.
I know squat about splitting wedges, but my guess is that the spiral design improves the spitting ability of the wedge. Is it wider at the top of its' winds than a conventional tapered wedge? It appears to twist or rotate as it penetrates the wood.
I live in North Florida and we have abundance of Live Oak trees. My family owns a small orange grove which is littered with several large Live Oaks and each year several large branches fall from these trees. I wish I could use the wood as firewood, but a wedge always gets pounded in like a nail in to the rounds I cut. I've tried a maul before but it makes little if any progress in slit Live Oak rounds. What would you Wranglerstar suggest to use to slit large Live Oak rounds. Also great channel. If any one else has any suggestions feel free to add them. I can't afford a mechanical log splitter so any manual way of slitting logs is the only method I have at my disposal. Thank you in advance!
This video series has the most decent, polite, respectful, clean talking presenters and commenters, by far, ive watched/read. And amazing how that "evolved", ya'll mostly read your Bible. Pleasure to spectate.
I'm looking for a video of a group of older guys splitting logs into planks with wedges by plugging in the wedges at even intervals along the sides. I was sure it was related to one of these videos somewhere but I can't find it. Any help? I'd be thrilled if anybody knows the one I mean!
An Estwing Sure Split wedge works great at this job. Start a small groove with maul to hold wedge upright, use moderate easy to control swings and it splits surprisingly easy. The soft head of wedge won't chip and after hundreds of blows can be ground to contour again. The hard sharp tip with side flutes does the work.
I don't know. I know WranglerStar is real partial to the firs, but the more I think about it, the cedar is sounding more appealing. Smells amazing: great for chests, cabinets, clothing closets, etc. Smells amazing and burns hotter than blazes in fireplaces and wood stoves. Is super tough and very compact/dense wood. Very interesting coloration. Great as a wood that is used in heavy weathered conditions: won't rot nearly as much as any other wood. More fire resistant..... I could go on and on. Downside: not a real 'big" tree, not as large of board feet ability. Boy some of those Italian Cedar groves though!
+Alan M. Thornton Interesting factoid: Honey Bees love the smell of it also, many many hives are made from Cedar as they are naturally attracted to the scent. It has amazing anti rot abilities enabling it to be used for external applications without treatment.
False. Nothing on our great continent smells better than wild cherry. I do love all the cedars, though, and particularly western red, which I might add remains aromatic nearly indefinitely (cherry doesn't for long).
lol, I remember the show you guys mentioned. The wedge is great to use for those difficult jobs. I use or lose one every season or three. Last year we had a fir log that I lost a wedge in. Its like it ate it up. We burned it and refound it, lol.
From what i can see the twist on the wedge is lowering the amount of metal that is in contact with the wood making it penetrate easier as well as spreading the wood more so in theory it should work great and it does.
Just making a guess here: I think the benefit of the twist is that the wedge is wider across the head when measured diagonally than is it perpendicularly. So you would get a wider wedge without adding more material.
This reminded me of something I saw in a Romanian lumberjack village once: they would first hit the log with a splitting axe, and follow that up with one or two strikes from a rather large, two handed wooden maul. I assume that hitting steel all day long with another steel implement can really damage your joints. These guys weren't splitting anything harder than oak, however they seemed to go through big logs with ease, with this axe-as-wedge combined with the wooden maul.
Check out the principle behind the design of the Ashby broadhead used in traditional archery. It is known for splitting the massive shoulder bone in large animals like Cape Buffalo. It twists as it enters the bone and does much more damage than a head with equal weight that does not twist and is shot from the same bow.
Nice wedge, quite a bit wider at the top than the ones I've been using... Looks like it's a "Hyper Tough 4 lb Twisted Stone Splitting Wedge"... found it listed at Walmart... the tip looks dull in the website pic, and in need of some considerable grinding to make the tip sharp and go in deep with each blow... Went to Walmart and picked one up. They had a bunch of them in a bin in the Garden Center. Some were blunt tipped and some were a bit more chiseled, but I found one that had a tip that was sharp, like an axe, and that's the one I brought home. I'll give it a try in the next couple of days and see how it compares to the one's I've got.
The twist in the wedge is not new, back in the 80s a company in Portland I think it was made twisted wedges along with other wood cutting/handling tools. I had one of their wedges and it worked very well just like the one you are using. What the twist does is cut down the surface friction by cutting down the contact area with the wood, so there is less drag when striking, so the wedge sinks in deeper with each strike.
I wonder if the spiral doesn't cause a lateral shifting of the two halves, in addition to the prying force, causing one side to move forward, and the other to move back. Might help separate those stringy grains if it does have that effect. I have a buddy who's father was injured from a mushroomed wedge once. A piece came off and actually penetrated his brain through his forehead. Luckily he recovered without long term damage. I'm never shy about taking my wedges to the grinder after hearing about that. I keep them all chamfer'd well now. Thanks again for a good video Cody. You've got a place to stay here if you and yours ever want to visit the San Juan Islands, no joke. Good fortune.
downward momentum helps push the wedge deeper twist in the wedge gives angular momentum that pushes the fibers out of the way and reduces contac point between the wood and the wedge that means less friction and more downward energy output ... also because of the twist after the split starts spreading beyond the width of the wedge the twist helps further expand the split like twisting an axe by the handle
As a kid I remember my dad using a wedge to bust some oak. Me and my brother were sitting on the tailgate, waiting to carry the wood over. Dad ran the chainsaw, busted the rounds, we would go grab the split pieces and and load it. He was about halfway through a tree, busting the rounds when we heard a loud ping, then an even louder thunk. My dad came running over, a big chip had popped off the wedge and sunk itself about an inch into a piece of wood between me and my brother. After that he always made us stand on the other side of the truck. When I got bigger I was the one swinging the sledgehammer busting rounds as he went down with the saw. I miss it at times, but have a torn rotator cuff that didn't heal right from 18 years of busting wood.
I cannot tell for sure from the angles, but it did look to me that the splits really generated as soon as the twist penetrated. is that about right from what you experienced?
nice wedge! But...... where is your sledge hammer for hitting that wedge? Long time ago when I used to split wood all winter , found it better to use sledge hammers than the maul when splitting logs. I have also used branches with the tip chopped to a point on the branch to split the log . This is when we were camping. The wedge mushroomed top had to be cut off every once in a while. We would leave some mushroom on so the folded out part would catch the log and not fall to the ground . This videos bring back some hard times. You would think we lived in the country the way i sound ...... we lived in NYC with wood hot water heat furnaces.
I want to know what kind of gloves your buddy is wearing. normally by the time my cheap gloves start to look that comfortable the finger tips are starting to wear out and I have to trash them. hopefully American made. if so where can I get some.
I'm no Engineer but the twist "IS" what's helping it! The Prandi forged steel wedge has a special spiral shape, around 45 degrees. This makes the leading edge of the thin blade twist as it is driven deeper into the log, thus multiplying it's splitting forces. This wedge is not meant to be consumable. The head is made of a malleable steel because that prevents the risk of dangerous chipping that can cause injury from flying metal. As you gain experience, aim for the middle, (I'm not being judgemental, I've driven a few railroad spikes in my day and a target that small is hard to hit haha!) choose a good hammer to strike it with. If it mushrooms off the edge due to wear heat it a little and then beat the head back in place on an anvil. (tool maintenance) The "Blade" however, is made of a Harder, Stronger, Steel or Iron to make it wear well. Prandi offers a better more expensive Aluminum version also. www.a-prandi.it/en/shop/3-046-cuneo-in-alluminio-elicoidale.html The lighter weight aluminum wedge transfers the impact into the wood more efficiently than the heavier steel wedge. (that's all about inertia) The lighter weight hardened aluminum is easier to move upon striking, driving it deeper into the wood and it doesn't chip. I've never split wood but I worked in a steel mill (Slept in a Holiday Inn, Haha!). At AK Steel Ashland Ky. I'm familiar with different metals and their characteristics. I have some homesteader in me, it's that way here in rural Kentucky. I hope I was of help Guy's, I enjoyed the video. Keep up the Good Work!
I like the design, it is easy to get started with the narrow point,then it gets thicker to get the job done.very nice.i would definitely use that wedge,along with brutis
One weekend when I was a kid I broke two mauls and a sledgehammer splitting firewood. I got in so much trouble but I didn't do it on purpose. My dad and I went to the hardware store and he made me pay for a new maul and then he broke it on the first swing. lol He gave me my money back :)
+sharkinfested great story
Well your family learned a great lesson that day.
Don't buy junk
@@remcodenouden5019 oof
Super bad mauls
I hate wooden handles
I personally often find it works well to hammer from the other direction, in which the split is perpendicular to me. I've found this to help prevent the wedge from tilting. Also, numerous times when I've missed, hitting in line with the split, the wedge has flown out and almost caused serious bodily damage. It doesn't do that when you're perpendicular to the split, because the wall of wood is blocking it from spinning out that way. For some reason, all that was hard to put into clear words.
Good idea....
WILSON! + I believe it was expounded accurately.
This is one of those things that's good advice and I have to wonder why I didn't realize/think of it already
Great idea!
I wish I'd have known that before I could afford a hydraulic splitter
My father was a toolsmith. Always use hard on soft, never hard on hard. Unless you want to lose an eye.
The back of wedges aren't hardened
He even mentioned @ 5:00 in the video that, wedges are softer and therefore considered "sacrificial ". You wouldn't ever catch me doing it without safety glasses on however!
My wedges look like flattened mushrooms. Maybe when they start splitting into curls, it’s time for them to go.
The video is called “Wedge vs. Maul: Which Splits Firewood Best?” But there was no comparison shown with the maul...
billwill.julz if you think about it, there would be no comparison really as the wedge comes out only when maul can’t handle the log
But well ya that was a nice wedge real nice wedge
Worth noting that (here) we use wedges in twos and fours on huge rounds. Start the crack with one, insert another in the end of the crack and so on. You can split monster rounds that no maul would touch. When the pieces get smaller, flip the maul round and split the the sharp face. Its not maul vs wedge here, its maul and wedges.
On the metal shards, when the wedge mushrooms over, you will likely find that small pieces of the mushroomed part will fly off. We just tidy up the edges of the wedges on the bench grinder as needed to remove any mushrooming
HTH
Hey cody my favorite tool to use when pounding on wedges is an actual sledge hammer.
TinManKustoms nonsense
@@omgitsjoetime why not a sledge??
@@vinlennox7658 No idea why they said not to and also no idea why they're using a maul in the video. Sledge and wedge is the ideal way to cut firewood by hand. I've done it for years. One of the reasons the combo works so well is the larger head on a sledgehammer means less misses and also more weight digs the wedge in faster.
@@prin8724 I’ve been using a sledge and wedge to cut firewood for the past few weeks.
I honestly prefer it to the axe.
No idea why you’d need a maul if you’re not gonna be using the sharp end.
A big square faced sledge (less chance of missing the wedge) no need even to swing it or force,,, just keep dropping it on the wedge from about 15 inches let the wieght do the work
Man, Alan is really stylin' in that field jacket and work gloves.
+sghost128 Seriously! looks--and sounds--like a Hollywood actor who just happened to stroll onto the Wranglerstar set...
+TheJohn8765 if this dude hasn't worked in radio he should.....nummies.
it's ok for me to say that...i'm a gal:)
His laugh is scary.
Yes, he looks to have gotten styled-up for the show.
Where did he get those gloves? I want.
I have split literally hundreds and hundreds of rounds using wedges but I don't use a maul for impact I always use a 16lb sledge. Your videos always bring me back to my youth because my family had a cabin in the central Sierra all my life and we always had 6-7 foot round logs to split. I got really good with accuracy and with the axe too. I always wanted to chop a log in half and make it look like a saw cut with the smoothest walls possible. I tried to challenge myself when working. I learned to keep an eye out for mushroomed heads on the wedges and keep the grinder handy to grind off the splitting mushroom shards and I never lost an eye!
The twist is for reducing the contact area of the wedge in the wood, which gives it less friction going in. cheers.
+Flip de boer It also results in a wider cross section on (with one end essentially becoming the hypotenuse of a triangle).
+Flip de boer Yes that makes sense. I was originally thinking that the twisting deepened the splitting force by using the leading edge to pry but there's no point in that because there's more leverage at the surface. I see that at depth, the pressure/contact would be more towards the edges instead of spread evenly across each whole side.
Stan Jellen
Just my thought, only better explained!
It also will help to pry the wood at the bottom of the wood so that it doesn't just split the top of the wood making it easier to pull apart
+Flip de boer the twist also provides more of a wedge with less material used, so less mass to move. hence more of the striking power will be used to drive in the wedge deeper.
Alan seems to be a very cordial person and its good Cody and his family have a good friend around who doesn't mind being a neighbor on camera :) and he is also their house minder when they are out of town from what I understand. He has a nice demeanor and I think he does well in videos with Cody.
Kudos to Alan :)
+Sunny W Don't forget Alan is also our UBER driver,
Well, maybe you have introduced him in past videos and its possible I missed that. I just figured out who he was by reading snip-its of the comments today. Sorry :)
And his voice... Talk about soothing voice...
when i bought my first honda, i also got an impact screwdriver. you set it on a stuck screw head and hit it with a hammer. there was a twisted rod inside that transferred the force in the form of TORQUE to the screw. Your wedge does the same thing, transferring the impact and forcing the wedge to twist through the wood. It will force the left side of the stump away from you and the right side towards you. This adds a "shear" action to the simple lateral separation normally at work here. Your last split showed this because you had to move your feet clockwise to follow the stump. Beautiful wedge!! (and yes, i do have too much time on my hands. lol)
+grodad Darn! You beat me to it.
lol. got too busy watching for your big storm eh? (mine worked great on my basket case!)
just got a youtube account 2 mins ago you were the first persons i subscribed too ive have been watching your videos for two years and im so glad i can now participate in the comments and the bible studies and all that jazz i have never disagreed two much on anything you say and am proud to subscribe to a channel with such good ideas and intentions for the first time i can say thank you wranglerstar for all the effort you go to to keep me entertained in every video
well first off, Maul is a Dathomirian Sith warrior trained in Form 7 lightsaber combat. he utilizes sheer strength and overwhelming speed to defeat his enemies. whereas Wedge is an ace pilot for the Rebellion, specializing with the X-wing starfighter. if I had to pin the 2 together, I'd say Maul would force choke Wedge to death before he could even reach for his blaster. however if Maul and Wedge were in starfighters, Wedge would win every time, despite Maul's skill in the force.
How can this be year old on a video with 375,000 views and only have 20 likes
Lol
@@MisterMaster698 probably because half the people who watch wranglerstar have never watched Star Wars
Now we know the truth. LMAO.
If you spray the wedge with WD40, it sinks in easier and faster. Also, on a big log, use two wedges not just one.
shoe wax works fantastic or autobody wax on your maul or axe
Maul vs. wedge, it's really just the flavor of the day for me. I really dislike the maul I currently have, but it can make splitting easy-to-split wood go quicker. I would definitely reach for wedges if I had to strike the pole more than a few times. Some hardwoods are VERY difficult to split in comparison to that douglas fir.
Nicholas Smerk i second that . hammering a wedge through a peice of beech ash or maple that size is veeeery difficult
you should always wear safty glasses when hitting weages or you might get stuff in your eyes
He said in the video that they won't chip because the wedge is sifter than the axe so it just dents and mushrooms.
+Nate Nan Yes he did say that but the safety glasses are still a good idea something else could fly up. and you only get one set of eyes.
yes but an accident is just that an accident!
As Cody has said that's his grandfathers axe which is obviously old and could chip if they missed and hit the flooring. You only get one set of eyes and they're pretty useful when doing stuff like this so safety first every time.
Cody safety first we don't want you losing and eye and having to rename the channel piratestar or wranglerpirate 😂
There is no such thing as an accident... There is only carelessness.
+TheMrKrause Yeah, or as my old Dad often said, accidents are caused.
The twist in the wedge would help - it's the same as when you stick the ax in a log and twist sideways trying to break free. Would be really cool if you could do a close-up slo-motion of the wedge working on a strike when it splits. Think you could do it?
Please Please Please wear ear protection when doing metal on metal strikes. It's those short and sharp pinging sounds that can cause a lot of damage.
I've always found that driving a wedge is much more tiring than taking multiple swings with an 8lb maul. I have a wedge, but only use it for the most stubborn rounds, that are either super knotty or dense enough that the maul bounces off. Even then, I can usually make the maul work by splitting the log around the outside edges and working my way in.
Same here, and if it really won’t split after half a dozen hits I give up and use the chainsaw. Normally you can see if a log is going to be impossible to split by the knots etc.
I love a wedge. I call it hammer and nail. this twisted wedge is my favorite. can't get them here anymore. don't know why.also never use a maul with a wedge. use an 8-10 pound hammer. works much better.
forgive my ignorance, but who is Alan?
+Brandon Scott Cody said in an earlier video that their neighbour sometimes house sit for him and his wife, and on one of those occasions the neighbor got that axe handle for his maul and hung it. And since he is referring to him in that way I would (without knowing) pressume that Alan is that neighbor and friend :)
All the best
/Arf.
Judge not, lest ye be judged...
He is also in the tree planting video if I remember correctly.
+Brandon Scott I was thinking the same thing.
neighbor and friend of Cody and the family, a nice guy and a fun addition to the video
i once had such a chip fly of a faulty maul and it went into my leg 8 cm deep (about 3 inches). if such a chip happens to impact your chest between your ribs it has enough penetration to puncture ones heart and become fatal. Never use wedges that have such a hard top that chips fly off.
+Tommie D wow. glad you were ok.
+Tommie D // If I may, it's not the hardness of the top of the wedge. That steel is (relatively) soft so you CAN hit it with a hardened steel hammer. What it's about is, to keep the mushrooming ground off the head of the wedge. Cody has talked about this sort of thing, both on big tools like these, and down to little punches and chisels. It's all the same. Grind off the expanding part of the tool head when it begins to mushroom.
My father had a chip fly off a mushroomed wedge head in 1960. It was still there in his arm when he died in 1995.
+Tommie D Recently a chip "bit" me in the leg. The sound it made during take off, and the sound i made when it landed, oh boy. It did a belly landing, so just a bruise.
Lesson learned, mushrooming no bueno.
+Michael Dougfir I have a BB grown into the bone of my big toe, from when my twin brother accidentally shot me in the foot with our older brothers BB gun when we were 6 yo, 48 years ago. I found out about it when I was 36, when I got a nail in a dropped board stuck though the same toe. My unlucky toe, I guess. lol
I was working with a guy one time that had a two inch chip break off of a mattoch and stick into his cheek about an inch from his eye. So, wear your safety glasses.
Needless to say, I grind my mushrooms off practically religiously.
I have 85 stitches in three layers in my right leg from a metal chip which went in to the bone. They had to open the leg up and scrape the bone to get it all out. Happened when I was standing close to someone hammering in a locating pin while replacing the GET (bucket teeth) on a Komatsu front end loader in Western Australia. From this experience, I would never even consider using a steel wedge as shown in this clip for splitting timber (plus the timber we get around here is much harder than what they are splitting in this clip). I tend to cut the blocks short (particularly if they are larger diameter) and then use what we call a block splitter (a maul in the clips).
Thank you for making that video. Glad you agreed with me.....great wedge. I love mine.
Thanks for the video on the wedge. They have a great design.
I stand at right angles to the line of the wedge, and have less trouble with the wedge wandering off plumb this way. Have you assessed your varied mauls for driving wedges? Mine aren't tempered on the blunt end for driving wedges, and I have to bring a sledge with me for driving them, so I don't mushroom my mauls.
My Wetterlings splitting wedge is twisted and seems to work the same way as this one. I believe you are correct that the twist forces the wood apart by transferring force sideways but I think the twist is also what prevents binding as less surface area is in contact along the edges than would be the case in a straight rectangular profile. Great video!
Hey wranglerstar, just food for thought. 5 years ago I broke and dislocated my right shoulder in a bad snowmobile accident in northern MN. With that said I have had to change the way I split wood. both at home and in the field. In the field I use my chain saw and cut big rounds down to manageable sizes. I cut only half way so not to hit the ground. then I use a splitting maul or slug hammer and wedges. This way splits wood very nice for me and the concussion shock back thru the handle isn't as bad either. I've split like this for many years without a problem. If I split straight splitting maul only it's a night of pain meds and muscle rub. Just a tid bit for you.
Hi, Cody. Twist in the wedge acts as extra leverage, as a way to turn the material aside while splitting and also helps the wedge in NOT getting stuck in the material.
wow that wedge works great, out here on the Navajo reservation we harvest alot of pinon pine and juniper to heat our homes. i need to save up and some day get one. thanks for the great video.
Enjoyed your video,I know it's a long time ago,but still enjoyed watching it. Don't know if anyone suggested it, but the twist in that wedge probably gives rotational force to the wood helping it force apart
Those twisted wedges are all we use anymore. I think there's 11 or 12 around here, scattered in our different wood stations. If you watch the wedge will ride on that outside rail on it's way through the wood, a wide wedge on a small profile of contact, penetration and wedge thickness is maximized. We have completely given up on the old standard strait tapered wedge. These really pop open the round. They do require more attention to the mushroom though, but I would much rather tend that, opposed to the alternative. Hammers and wedges in the big rounds is the only way to go, splitting tools after the round is open.
I have wedged a lot of wood over the years. I also have had a steel splinter come off the wedge after a lot of use and they become rolled. I always use safety glasses and from time to time grind the roll over edges off the wedge. However since starting to use a splitting ax four years ago I hardly ever need a wedge.
Nice. Looks like the side camera was taking a beating from the concussion. Great video.
WS, You should get another wedge of common make and get two pieces of wood maybe saw through a knot so both will be as close to the same as possible and compare the wedges. Hit one then the other see how they compare that way. the twisted wedge seems to have double the spread as you drive it in, its spreading with the down force and then as it twist its pushing out sideways even more.
Great idea! Then also add a cheapo harbor freight one to show how the difference quality makes.
+traderjoes yuck, I hope I never see Harbor Freight stuff here. Granted some stuff from there is adequate.... just... no. Please no.
is there going to be a wranglwestar wedge?
I have a maul, a splitting axe and several wedges. And for the most part I prefer a Sledge and wedge method.
So when should you toss a wedge out? I've got one that's mushroomed out quite a bit but I don't know if I should toss it and get a new one or go through another year with it
I don't have a education in engineering but I can already see a couple of advantages of this design in a wedge, the twist seems to do two things, first it reduces the contact area which contact the wood and also helps to drive the log apart by it trying to turn slightly and therefore giving it more force towards the sides, but that's just my two cents, it would be great to see a side by side comparison with this and a normal wedge.
Have a great day and keep up the great work :)
Basically what you are doing is driving a big screw into the wood and that is what is helping it pop apart. It's twisting in the wood and doing it in an impacting force. Very effective. Great video!
Great video Cody! We cook over oak and hickory down here, wish Douglas Fir was available here!
you should do more videos with your friend
+EditorialStudios I told Alan he needs to start his own channel,
+Wranglerstar He should do audiobooks, too. He has a great voice.
+Wranglerstar Yes, he seems to have an awesome attitude for sure
he's a dangerous wood splitter though :-P
Your not kidding bro.
I slightly missed the wedge yesterday and it went flying like it was in a hatchet throwing contest. My 3 year old was outside playing....made my re-think splitting wood outside vs paying 5 bucks at the grocery store!
You convinced me to buy two. Thank you and Alan. Great voice over canidate.
Neat wedge. I saw one several years ago that looked like a top with coarse threads on it. They called it the "hand grenade" Ever use one of those?
Love those gloves Alan is wearing! Any ideas where to find a pair that are reliable and don’t fall apart after a weeks wearing? I’ve had no luck finding any.
So that is the guy Cody always praises! Nice finally getting to know him (for me at least, maybe i just missed him on other videos).
Being up in BC I caved and bought a log splitter for the Douglas Fir logs but still enjoy a mauler for the Alder and Yellow cedar. Too old for a wedge now too, I'm lucky I only need 7 cords for heat this year instead of 20 last year.
I split all my firewood by hand and it is a very mixed variety I usually use three wedges for large oak and ash two that are flat and one that is kind of star shaped but goes to a point. I would like to try out this style of wedge but haven't bean able to find a website that I can order it from will you be selling these at wranglermart ?
Can you please tell me what brand golves alan is wearing in the video? Would love to get my hands on a pair
I've recently received a very old American broad hatchet/carpenter's axe that was made here in Bucks County, Pa and found in a very old barn. It appears to have the original handle on it which is very worn and not in the best shape. Where can I go to find the offset handle to use this beautiful axe again? I was thinking maybe the amish/mennonites. Any feed back would be appreciated.
definitely not my choice of a way to split wood. but do love that new wedge. my grandfather is 77 and that method makes his whole body hurt. beautiful video. really great quality.
Really like the wedge, I wondered at the beginning if the maul would break, happy to see the wedge mushrooms. Nice Italian wedge. I am impreesed
"we're not gonna edit it"
ladies and gentlemen,
the comedic value of integrity
Where do you purchase a splitting wedge like that used in the video
If your handle is not parallel to the top of the wedge, it will drive it forward or backwards. It must be a flat strike.
Exactly. In another video he stated that your handle needs to be level when you connect, yet he isn't obeying his own rules.
Great video as always Cody!
what a great video.
just two dudes talking about something they like and have a passion for.
your buddy seems a cool guy :) i'd like to see him again on one of your videos.
and i don't even am a homesteader, i live in a big city in sicily, italy, swallowed by cement and i'm likely never gonna have an axe in my hands.
I have found that standing 90° of the way you were, that the wedge doesn't move as much, but we burn only hard wood. Oaks red & white, hickory. On some of the wood the log splitters strain.
Thank you for the video. My thoughts are that the twist makes for a wider wedge overall and that is what is doing the splitting. Again God Bless and keep up the good work.
What brand maul is bruticus? Also, I have a cheepie wedge I picked up at Harbor Freight that looks exactly like this one and works very well. I do use a sledge hammer to drive it so the impact is more spread out on the wedge.
When you get around to needing to break them out again, would you be able to do a more in depth video on splitting wedges and their use? Maybe a bit of a size comparison as well as what the different designs are going to be better suited for? Or which wedges are good to have on hand if you DO end up needing them. Not many videos on the topic. Thanks.
Mr. Wranglerstar, I do believe Alan was surmising along the same lines I was. I think the twist reduces the surface area in contact with the wood. Perhaps this reduces the friction and allows more of the energy energy to be utilized in the actual splitting of the log.
Little House. Great show that had many great lessons for those willing to learn. Mr. Edwards played by Victor French!
So when can we get our own Prandi axe? I went onto their website and can't find anything like what is shown.
I know squat about splitting wedges, but my guess is that the spiral design improves the spitting ability of the wedge. Is it wider at the top of its' winds than a conventional tapered wedge? It appears to twist or rotate as it penetrates the wood.
I live in North Florida and we have abundance of Live Oak trees. My family owns a small orange grove which is littered with several large Live Oaks and each year several large branches fall from these trees. I wish I could use the wood as firewood, but a wedge always gets pounded in like a nail in to the rounds I cut. I've tried a maul before but it makes little if any progress in slit Live Oak rounds. What would you Wranglerstar suggest to use to slit large Live Oak rounds. Also great channel. If any one else has any suggestions feel free to add them. I can't afford a mechanical log splitter so any manual way of slitting logs is the only method I have at my disposal. Thank you in advance!
Never seen two people love wedges so much, love the videos btw
This video series has the most decent, polite, respectful, clean talking presenters and commenters, by far, ive watched/read. And amazing how that "evolved", ya'll mostly read your Bible. Pleasure to spectate.
I'm looking for a video of a group of older guys splitting logs into planks with wedges by plugging in the wedges at even intervals along the sides. I was sure it was related to one of these videos somewhere but I can't find it. Any help? I'd be thrilled if anybody knows the one I mean!
I am impressed! very nice wedge. that was agnarly piece of fir. good test!
Hi,
Terrific and really interesting video on this usual wedge.
An Estwing Sure Split wedge works great at this job. Start a small groove with maul to hold wedge upright,
use moderate easy to control swings and it splits surprisingly easy. The soft head of wedge won't chip and after hundreds of blows can be ground to contour again. The hard sharp tip with side flutes does the work.
Western Red Cedar is the best wood to split, it smells better than Cherry!
+Andy Mahoney It's a matter of opinion, but I think Cedar is stunning wood too for certain. TOUGH!
I don't know. I know WranglerStar is real partial to the firs, but the more I think about it, the cedar is sounding more appealing. Smells amazing: great for chests, cabinets, clothing closets, etc. Smells amazing and burns hotter than blazes in fireplaces and wood stoves. Is super tough and very compact/dense wood. Very interesting coloration. Great as a wood that is used in heavy weathered conditions: won't rot nearly as much as any other wood. More fire resistant..... I could go on and on. Downside: not a real 'big" tree, not as large of board feet ability. Boy some of those Italian Cedar groves though!
+Alan M. Thornton Interesting factoid: Honey Bees love the smell of it also, many many hives are made from Cedar as they are naturally attracted to the scent. It has amazing anti rot abilities enabling it to be used for external applications without treatment.
aromatic red cedar is amazing.
False. Nothing on our great continent smells better than wild cherry. I do love all the cedars, though, and particularly western red, which I might add remains aromatic nearly indefinitely (cherry doesn't for long).
lol, I remember the show you guys mentioned. The wedge is great to use for those difficult jobs. I use or lose one every season or three. Last year we had a fir log that I lost a wedge in. Its like it ate it up. We burned it and refound it, lol.
From what i can see the twist on the wedge is lowering the amount of metal that is in contact with the wood making it penetrate easier as well as spreading the wood more so in theory it should work great and it does.
Just making a guess here: I think the benefit of the twist is that the wedge is wider across the head when measured diagonally than is it perpendicularly. So you would get a wider wedge without adding more material.
This reminded me of something I saw in a Romanian lumberjack village once: they would first hit the log with a splitting axe, and follow that up with one or two strikes from a rather large, two handed wooden maul. I assume that hitting steel all day long with another steel implement can really damage your joints. These guys weren't splitting anything harder than oak, however they seemed to go through big logs with ease, with this axe-as-wedge combined with the wooden maul.
good video, like the comparisons
Check out the principle behind the design of the Ashby broadhead used in traditional archery. It is known for splitting the massive shoulder bone in large animals like Cape Buffalo. It twists as it enters the bone and does much more damage than a head with equal weight that does not twist and is shot from the same bow.
Whats the little camera on the tripod at the start of the video?
Perfect..... 11 minutes until I have to check out how the food is doing on the stove.
I got two of those twisting wedges and they are a dream to use when you split oak
Can someone tell who makes those glove his friend is wearing?
Split wood outside where sound dissipates! Wear ear protection!
Onlookers: wear eye protection!
What about the pointed wedges with a point shaped like a Phillips screwdriver, better or worse? Also, are wedges sharpen able or worth sharpening?
Nice wedge, quite a bit wider at the top than the ones I've been using...
Looks like it's a "Hyper Tough 4 lb Twisted Stone Splitting Wedge"... found it listed at Walmart... the tip looks dull in the website pic, and in need of some considerable grinding to make the tip sharp and go in deep with each blow...
Went to Walmart and picked one up. They had a bunch of them in a bin in the Garden Center. Some were blunt tipped and some were a bit more chiseled, but I found one that had a tip that was sharp, like an axe, and that's the one I brought home. I'll give it a try in the next couple of days and see how it compares to the one's I've got.
The bearded friend is Mr Isaiah Edwards. Little House on the Prairie is my all time favorite TV show.
Where do you buy a good wedge or grenade?
Can someone post a link to that wedge? Looks awesome, I really like that design!
The twist in the wedge is not new, back in the 80s a company in Portland I think it was made twisted wedges along with other wood cutting/handling tools. I had one of their wedges and it worked very well just like the one you are using.
What the twist does is cut down the surface friction by cutting down the contact area with the wood, so there is less drag when striking, so the wedge sinks in deeper with each strike.
+Kriss Femmpaws Interesting point
Yep, you got it. The twist reduces the contact area between the wedge and the wood.
Traditional Woodworker site sells a twisted hand forged and tempered wedge from Mueller.
Great video, as always!
I wonder if the spiral doesn't cause a lateral shifting of the two halves, in addition to the prying force, causing one side to move forward, and the other to move back. Might help separate those stringy grains if it does have that effect.
I have a buddy who's father was injured from a mushroomed wedge once. A piece came off and actually penetrated his brain through his forehead. Luckily he recovered without long term damage. I'm never shy about taking my wedges to the grinder after hearing about that. I keep them all chamfer'd well now.
Thanks again for a good video Cody. You've got a place to stay here if you and yours ever want to visit the San Juan Islands, no joke. Good fortune.
downward momentum helps push the wedge deeper twist in the wedge gives angular momentum that pushes the fibers out of the way and reduces contac point between the wood and the wedge that means less friction and more downward energy output ... also because of the twist after the split starts spreading beyond the width of the wedge the twist helps further expand the split like twisting an axe by the handle
As a kid I remember my dad using a wedge to bust some oak. Me and my brother were sitting on the tailgate, waiting to carry the wood over. Dad ran the chainsaw, busted the rounds, we would go grab the split pieces and and load it. He was about halfway through a tree, busting the rounds when we heard a loud ping, then an even louder thunk. My dad came running over, a big chip had popped off the wedge and sunk itself about an inch into a piece of wood between me and my brother. After that he always made us stand on the other side of the truck. When I got bigger I was the one swinging the sledgehammer busting rounds as he went down with the saw. I miss it at times, but have a torn rotator cuff that didn't heal right from 18 years of busting wood.
I cannot tell for sure from the angles, but it did look to me that the splits really generated as soon as the twist penetrated. is that about right from what you experienced?
Yes. It was awesome
nice wedge! But...... where is your sledge hammer for hitting that wedge? Long time ago when I used to split wood all winter , found it better to use sledge hammers than the maul when splitting logs. I have also used branches with the tip chopped to a point on the branch to split the log . This is when we were camping. The wedge mushroomed top had to be cut off every once in a while. We would leave some mushroom on so the folded out part would catch the log and not fall to the ground . This videos bring back some hard times. You would think we lived in the country the way i sound ...... we lived in NYC with wood hot water heat furnaces.
Impressed so far, I do feel that it has an advantage possibly. Would like to see it vs. Harder woods.
I want to know what kind of gloves your buddy is wearing. normally by the time my cheap gloves start to look that comfortable the finger tips are starting to wear out and I have to trash them. hopefully American made. if so where can I get some.
I'm no Engineer but the twist "IS" what's helping it! The Prandi forged steel wedge has a special spiral shape, around 45 degrees. This makes the leading edge of the thin blade twist as it is driven deeper into the log, thus multiplying it's splitting forces. This wedge is not meant to be consumable. The head is made of a malleable steel because that prevents the risk of dangerous chipping that can cause injury from flying metal. As you gain experience, aim for the middle, (I'm not being judgemental, I've driven a few railroad spikes in my day and a target that small is hard to hit haha!) choose a good hammer to strike it with. If it mushrooms off the edge due to wear heat it a little and then beat the head back in place on an anvil. (tool maintenance) The "Blade" however, is made of a Harder, Stronger, Steel or Iron to make it wear well. Prandi offers a better more expensive Aluminum version also. www.a-prandi.it/en/shop/3-046-cuneo-in-alluminio-elicoidale.html The lighter weight aluminum wedge transfers the impact into the wood more efficiently than the heavier steel wedge. (that's all about inertia) The lighter weight hardened aluminum is easier to move upon striking, driving it deeper into the wood and it doesn't chip. I've never split wood but I worked in a steel mill (Slept in a Holiday Inn, Haha!). At AK Steel Ashland Ky. I'm familiar with different metals and their characteristics. I have some homesteader in me, it's that way here in rural Kentucky. I hope I was of help Guy's, I enjoyed the video. Keep up the Good Work!
I like the design, it is easy to get started with the narrow point,then it gets thicker to get the job done.very nice.i would definitely use that wedge,along with brutis