✅ HOW TO SUPPORT MY CHANNEL SUBSCRIBE : th-cam.com/users/mwawoodworks JOIN my Patreon community: patreon.com/MWAWoodworks GET project plans: bit.ly/download-project-plans ✅ TOOLS AND SUPPLIES IN THIS VIDEO: ►Spectape Two Sided Tape - amzn.to/3IxTMma ►True Position Cabinet Hardware Jig - amzn.to/3KDHjjK ►Kreg Shelf Pin Jig (new model) - amzn.to/3kwugpG ►Bangood Pocket Hole Jig - amzn.to/3Zonuki ►Kreg Pocket Hole Jig (new model) - amzn.to/41qvovu ►Castle TSM 12 Pocket Hole Cutter - castleusa.com/products/tsm-12-benchtop-pocket-cutter-machine.html ►Festool LR32 System - amzn.to/3KxTmPw *As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases
I just watched 3 or 4 videos and have to say I really enjoy like how you keep things moving along. You share a lot of info and a relatively short span of time. No fluff, dumb, dry humor that is painful to watch or loud obnoxious music playing over your speaking. Thank you and you've got another subscriber.
I feel like that cat that ate the canary, a (not so local) cabinet shop was WAY over stock on 1/2" UV Birch and I bought 30 sheets for $22 a sheet, per SHEET (yes 4x8). I'm gonna feel like a monster when I use that for underlayment.
Thanks, I picked up a bunch of tips! For laying out drawer slides, plywood is a great idea. But if you start from the lowest slide and cut pieces to stack up to all your slide install lines you can use the same pieces of plywood to lay out the drawer slides in more than one cabinet instead of cutting up a piece of plywood for each one. If you start from the top and cut it down to size as you go you lose the width of the kerf and can't reuse. Even if you are only making one, you can still do all the slides on one side at the same time instead of switching back and forth and there's no running to the saw every few minutes. It'll save a lot of time- efficiency in all things comes from doing repetitive tasks as many times as possible without moving.
Fantastic video. Definitely one of the best cabinet Q&A type videos I've seen. I love that in several sections you offered an affordable jig/tool and an upgrade option, especially for things like pocket holes and shelf pins where the affordable option remains useful even after you upgrade.
And experience is just how many times somones gone wrong and fixed it. So someone much better than you has already solved the problem. You just need to find the internet article.
At 70 years old I am planning to redo our 50 year old kitchen and my intention is to build the cabinets myself. I really enjoy your videos, very informative and educational. I do though have a question. In the background of many scenes of this video there is a three door wall cabinet. The doors have a wider gap between the center and right door than the center and left door. Is there a reason for this?
I really enjoy your videos. I bought your plans for the drill charging station, and it has really improved my shop organization. You inspired an Ephinay when you explained why you use pre-finished plywood. I find myself not wanting to finish shop projects, but it makes so much more sense to use pre-finished plywood because you don't have to sand or set up to spray the project. Thank you for your videos. They are very helpful for me.
Here's something I've been thinking about: I have some kitchen cabinets I'm building that will all be drawer units. In this instance, do the bottoms need to be solid panels, or will stretchers like those typically used for the tops be sufficient? It's a span of three 24" cabinet boxes that will be screwed together. I could save some money by using stretchers instead of solid panels.
06:00 I'm a drummer, and I also happen to be Italian. We use the metric system here so I was spacing out while you were laying out (eheh) the standard measures... But man those drums in the background music sound amazing! Aaand nice tips too lol
I did not know that pre finished plywood was still paintable. I have been looking for pre finished on one side for my kitchen because i planned on painting them. You just saved me a huge headache!
Superb video. Not a lot new to me bit all in one place - materials, tools, methods. Clear, well-spoken. And I can translate to millimetres in my head (UK, started from age 4 with £, shillings, pence, ha'pennies and miles, yards, feet, inches, and tons, cwt, pounds, ounces, and gallons, quarts and UK pints at 20 floz. Age 15, we went decimal and did science to university). It's a useful and fun discipline to beat folk with calculators!
love building with prefinished c2 maple plywood :). Local distributor has it for $105 / sheet, and it is definitely my go to when building new cabinets for customers don't care what the material is.
I think one of the biggest things for me was realizing the OUTSIDE dimensions of a face frame carcass don’t matter. It’s the face frame itself, and the INTERIOR dimensions (stretchers, bottom/tops) that are most important to get right. And bc of the variability of plywood thickness, the exterior carcass size doesn’t matter
Wow I just found your channel …. You not only build beautiful cabinets but you are very professional in the area of video production…. I am interested in starting a channel on woodworking and would love to get a chance to speak more with you… Thanks for the great tips… I just finished adding 10 drawers to my shop today…
Wow this whole time I assumed painting on pre finished wouldn't yield the best results. Thanks for making that clear! You're the best man, wishing you continued success on your channel! 👊
Excellent video! I am just starting on my first cabinet building project. First run is a cabinet to mount my drill press. Then on to replacing all my kitchen cabinets. Not certain if I am crazy for tackling this or nor.
Awesome!!! I also use your cabinet plans I purchased a while ago as a great go to reference when I work build cabinets myself. 👍🏽 Thanks for your content and instructional style.
For the second tip where you use a scrap piece of plywood to set your drawer slides at the proper height you might as well make a little jig for it that you can reuse over and over again plus you'll be able to add a 90 degree on the bottom to support it so it doesn't fall over. it would essentially work a lot like your drawer handle jig.
One of the first tools I bought after my table saw was the castle. The pockets don’t look like amateur hour, they look machined and precise (which they are).
Yeah that Rockler drawer slide jig is the biggest piece of junk I’ve ever bought, fully 3/16” off 90 degrees from the face over its length. I had it for too long before trying it and couldn’t return it, it’s the only tool I’ve ever just tossed in the garbage unused. The method you show is by far the best, even though I don’t really have that much scrap hat large sitting around 🙂
Love pocket holes for construction. My Kreg jig is made completely of aircraft aluminum with steal inserts. it is one of the first ones that the company made and is about 30 years old and it is still being used although I have a newer jig now. I like the box you have for the jig. Thanks for this video...
Enjoyed the video. Thank you! One ? - I've recently tried pocket hole assembly of drawer boxes and can't find a screw head that works with 1/2" Baltic without protruding past the primary surface. Is that why you are using 5/8?
Excellent video. Love your content. One question I have is how wide do you make your drawers, particularly when using side mount slides. Do you subtract just the width of the slides from the carcass?
Hope you don’t mind hearing it again, but, THANKS! Great info and great use of my last 17:31 plus another 20 or so replaying, browsing linked products/merch, etc. 👍🏻👍🏻
I'm a newbie wanting to build my own kitchen cabinets and my preference is to use a separate kick plate. If I'm using a separate kick plate, do I subtract the height of the kick plate from the standard height of the base kitchen cabinet? For example, if the height of my kick plate is 3.5 inches, the height of my base cabinet will be 31 inches (34.5 inches - 3.5 inches). Is this correct?
Yeah you just have to be careful with bit breakage. A big issue with the foreman because it still uses the same drill bit as a regular kreg jig but not really designed for that much efficiency like the Castle machines which use routers instead.
Thanks for the videos. I really enjoy your style of teaching! I have purchased the plans and am in the process of building some cabinets for my shop. I see that you used prefinished plywood for your boxes. Do you use any kind of finish on the face frames and drawers on your shop furniture? If I am using unfinished plywood and will be using Hickory for the frame, should I be using a finish? or is it not necessary since it is "just shop" furniture? Thanks again!
very nicely done vid. thank you. one question about drilling shelf pin holes with a router.... what bits are you using? i know end mills are horrible for drilling and ive burnt up quite a few that way on the cnc.
Funny for aligning drawer slides on the sides of the cabinets I've been using the same approach for year. But with the price of plywood, I've gone to keeping smaller scraps, and join joining them together with Domino for new cabinets.
Was considering using one side finished plywood. Do you sand the finish and primer before painting the pre finished or just prime and paint without sanding?
Excellent video. I sure wish I'd seen it 3 months ago:-) BTW, how do you record audio in your shop with no echo? I can't seem to find the right formula.
What brand of side mount soft close drawer slides do you use? For the most part, I have had bad luck with all that I have used. I realize a precise installation is key to them, but still...
GREAT video, so helpful......thanks for making it!!! I'm working with prefinished plywood for the first time right now. Is there a good way to apply finish (and what kind to use) to the exposed cut edges or should they just be left unfinished? Never knew you could paint it either so thanks for sharing how to do that. When you use the double sided tape for drawer slides, etc. do you just leave it on the project or take off after the holes are drilled and before installation? Thanks so much if you can answer these questions!
In professional world, we would use spray lacquer or whatever spray clear it was. Just make sure that it matches the color fairly well. Just spray that on the exposed edge of the drawer boxes facing up. Other than that, I can't think of any spot where you would have visible plywood end grain.
@@SawdustmakerLori No prob. I personally would test it out on a scrap, give it like an hour to dry, then see if you like it or if it matches well enough to be passable. It won't be perfect match, but that is the easiest way to handle that issue that I know of.
Some great tips. I can't access your plans on your website as according to my antivirus software your website has malware. Just thought you should know so you could fix it.
I watched your cabinet video (fantastic) and am using that info to build my miter saw bench. This video answered some questions but I still have one more. Concerning the 1/4" plywood back panel, Is it for squaring the cabinet or just so it looks finished from the inside? I'm thinking it isn't necessary for a shop miter saw station when all the cabinets will have drawers so the back of the cabinet isn't visible.
@@MWAWoodworks awesome, thanks. I can save my extra sheet of quarter inch birch ply for more drawer bottoms and french cleat holders. I really appreciate the quick response since I'm starting to cut the carcasses tomorrow morning. You're the best.
The only thing I didn't like about the first jig I bought was that you have to reach around the wood to engage the clamp and with real wide wood, this is almost impossible...
Do you have a video on how you paint these with the Sherwin Williams paint products? And do you seal the edges of the face to face frames on the doors or leave them clean? And are the faces pre-finished 1/4” ply too?
This video solves a lot of problems and will save me sooo much time in building cabinets. Building them upside down is a simple solution to a difficult procedure. why in the hell didn't think of that. If we really want to punish Putin we make him install drawer glides for eternity without watching this video!!!!. Thanks a Bunch young man.
Great info on some good tips and tricks. I enjoy cabinet making, and some of these tips will only make building them that much faster and easier. Thanks
I used your methods/techniques, not dimensions, to make cabinets for a crafting area for my wife, and I now finally get to make my shop cabinets. I bought your miter saw station plans, but I can't for the life of me find Baltic birch plywood, or 5/8 cabinet grade plywood for that matter. Do you think I can use 1/2 plywood in its place, or would you recommend going up to 3/4? The drawers is where I'm most concerned, seems like 3/4 inch sides and backs, with 1/4 bottom is kinda weird. Can't decide whether to go with 3/4 sides and backs, and maybe 1/2 bottoms or 1/2 sides and backs, with 1/4 bottoms. I'll definitely go up to 3/4 for the shallow drawer that'll hold the glue and heavier items.
Yes 5/8 Baltic Birch is very hard to find right now. You can drop down to 1/2" and I think it would be fine however you need to have a special spacer jig for your pocket holes because the kreg jig doesn't natively cut pocket holes for 1/2×1/2" joints you may have to build the drawers with tongue and groove joints.
@@MWAWoodworks, thanks for replying, puts my mind at ease!! I'll just have to make sure I adjust the length of the fronts and backs since I'm using thinner plywood. Or I guess I could put the pocket holes on the sides and use the same measurements from the cut list, but they'd be visible. My pocket hole jig allows me to adjust it for what thickness of wood I'm using, I made the drawers for that crafting room project using 1/2 plywood. I was just concerned since this is for my shop, and they may take on a little more abuse than a crafting room. Again, thanks for replying, love your videos!
@@MWAWoodworks, As I mentioned I bought the miter saw plans around a year ago, just finally running through the cultist. I'm noticing that some of the cut list quantities don't seem right. As an example there's one that is a back panel for the two door upper, says 2 in the cut list, but in the layout it only has me cutting one. Also the stretchers seem off, there's only 9 listed in the cut list, but the layout has me cutting 30 of them. And I know in the video you showed 2 different ways to make the upper cabinets, traditional and easy method, which method matches up with the cut list dimensions? In the easy method you just sandwich the top and bottom in-between the two sides, and attach them with pocket screws, but in the traditional method they sit in a dato. That would throw off the measurements for the face frames and doors unless I'm thinking about it wrong.
@@MWAWoodworks also, Ive found the plans call for 1/4 back panels, but the cut list is 1/2 inch. Everything I've stated, I've been able to account for/adjust with minimal waste. But what's the point of buying plans if I have to reverse engineer them? Also, to figure out which version of upper cabinets, I saw that the top and bottom of the cabinet was a full inch shorter in depth. So I figured the cultist was for traditional style, if it was the easy version they would only be a half inch shorter so the back panel could fit in the half inch rabbit. So I went ahead and cut the half inch dato, half inch in and I'll use half inch stretchers. Also cut the 3/4 dato in the sides to accept the tops and bottoms. Problem is, the back panel was too big to fit. So the tops and bottoms widths are for the easy shop version where you use pocket holes to attach them, so now I have 3/4 datos for no reason. I can either live with it, or fill them in with plywood strips, planed down to 3/8.
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✅ TOOLS AND SUPPLIES IN THIS VIDEO:
►Spectape Two Sided Tape - amzn.to/3IxTMma
►True Position Cabinet Hardware Jig - amzn.to/3KDHjjK
►Kreg Shelf Pin Jig (new model) - amzn.to/3kwugpG
►Bangood Pocket Hole Jig - amzn.to/3Zonuki
►Kreg Pocket Hole Jig (new model) - amzn.to/41qvovu
►Castle TSM 12 Pocket Hole Cutter - castleusa.com/products/tsm-12-benchtop-pocket-cutter-machine.html
►Festool LR32 System - amzn.to/3KxTmPw
*As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases
Just another great video that makes me feel like I can build my own cabinets
I just watched 3 or 4 videos and have to say I really enjoy like how you keep things moving along. You share a lot of info and a relatively short span of time. No fluff, dumb, dry humor that is painful to watch or loud obnoxious music playing over your speaking. Thank you and you've got another subscriber.
I agree with you 100%. Too many youtubers THINK they are funny making their videos less appealing.
I feel like that cat that ate the canary, a (not so local) cabinet shop was WAY over stock on 1/2" UV Birch and I bought 30 sheets for $22 a sheet, per SHEET (yes 4x8). I'm gonna feel like a monster when I use that for underlayment.
Thanks, I picked up a bunch of tips! For laying out drawer slides, plywood is a great idea. But if you start from the lowest slide and cut pieces to stack up to all your slide install lines you can use the same pieces of plywood to lay out the drawer slides in more than one cabinet instead of cutting up a piece of plywood for each one. If you start from the top and cut it down to size as you go you lose the width of the kerf and can't reuse. Even if you are only making one, you can still do all the slides on one side at the same time instead of switching back and forth and there's no running to the saw every few minutes. It'll save a lot of time- efficiency in all things comes from doing repetitive tasks as many times as possible without moving.
Fantastic video. Definitely one of the best cabinet Q&A type videos I've seen.
I love that in several sections you offered an affordable jig/tool and an upgrade option, especially for things like pocket holes and shelf pins where the affordable option remains useful even after you upgrade.
Thanks for your support!
I’ve been making cabinets for 30+ years and I learned a ton from this video. Thank you.
How is that poss?
Golden Rule - There is no substitute for experience.
For sure!
That’s was a bunch of good info!
Would like to add, no fear. Cut, and then decide to proceed with what you got or to try again.
And experience is just how many times somones gone wrong and fixed it.
So someone much better than you has already solved the problem. You just need to find the internet article.
That’s assuming you have it on your first attempt…I’d counter by saying “planning & prep” is the golden rule.
I love your no BS and high info style of teaching/explaining. Nice video, please keep it up!
Thanks for your support John!
At 70 years old I am planning to redo our 50 year old kitchen and my intention is to build the cabinets myself. I really enjoy your videos, very informative and educational. I do though have a question. In the background of many scenes of this video there is a three door wall cabinet. The doors have a wider gap between the center and right door than the center and left door. Is there a reason for this?
Awesome video very helpful thank you
Thanks!
I really enjoy your videos. I bought your plans for the drill charging station, and it has really improved my shop organization. You inspired an Ephinay when you explained why you use pre-finished plywood. I find myself not wanting to finish shop projects, but it makes so much more sense to use pre-finished plywood because you don't have to sand or set up to spray the project. Thank you for your videos. They are very helpful for me.
Love it!
Just make friends with some painters.
If you have good trade skills, there is a whole underground economy of labor trades amongst the working man.
Here's something I've been thinking about: I have some kitchen cabinets I'm building that will all be drawer units. In this instance, do the bottoms need to be solid panels, or will stretchers like those typically used for the tops be sufficient? It's a span of three 24" cabinet boxes that will be screwed together. I could save some money by using stretchers instead of solid panels.
A lot of very useful information. Thank you very much for sharing.
06:00 I'm a drummer, and I also happen to be Italian. We use the metric system here so I was spacing out while you were laying out (eheh) the standard measures... But man those drums in the background music sound amazing!
Aaand nice tips too lol
I did not know that pre finished plywood was still paintable. I have been looking for pre finished on one side for my kitchen because i planned on painting them. You just saved me a huge headache!
Yes if you scuff sand it and prime it you can definitely paint it.
Superb video. Not a lot new to me bit all in one place - materials, tools, methods. Clear, well-spoken. And I can translate to millimetres in my head (UK, started from age 4 with £, shillings, pence, ha'pennies and miles, yards, feet, inches, and tons, cwt, pounds, ounces, and gallons, quarts and UK pints at 20 floz. Age 15, we went decimal and did science to university). It's a useful and fun discipline to beat folk with calculators!
saved this vid -to review as i did project
great tips that i used.
and i really liked the way you presented
the whole process.
This was Fantastic info! Thank u for taking the time.
You're a good teacher.
Right!?
Hands down, one of the most informative Q&A video. Thx
love building with prefinished c2 maple plywood :). Local distributor has it for $105 / sheet, and it is definitely my go to when building new cabinets for customers don't care what the material is.
Outstanding presentation of information thank you!
I think one of the biggest things for me was realizing the OUTSIDE dimensions of a face frame carcass don’t matter. It’s the face frame itself, and the INTERIOR dimensions (stretchers, bottom/tops) that are most important to get right. And bc of the variability of plywood thickness, the exterior carcass size doesn’t matter
Yeah for sure in order to get your drawers sized right!
I love that kreg box! Nice an simple
Really, really useful video. I'm just about to embark on my most ambitious woodwork job ever - building my own kitchen. Your video is a great help.
Very well explained. Got set up on the festool system about a year ago. Was a learning curve but once you figure it out it's awesome.
I agree. Once it's set up right it's a blast to use
Thanks for the video… i woodwork but haven’t made kitchen grade cabinets. Appreciate the full breakdown 🫡
Thanks for all the great info!
Wow I just found your channel …. You not only build beautiful cabinets but you are very professional in the area of video production…. I am interested in starting a channel on woodworking and would love to get a chance to speak more with you… Thanks for the great tips… I just finished adding 10 drawers to my shop today…
So many good tips. Thank you
I would suggest putting the wood measurements in millimeters (MM) to make things easier, but anyway, very cool video!
Thank you. One day I will make some cabinets in MM but today it's too expensive to design in both measurements.
I didn’t know you were in the Nashville area! We are in MJ. Found your tips to be super helpful! Thanks for another great video 👍
I am indeed!
Thanks for the video!
You're welcome!
Wow this whole time I assumed painting on pre finished wouldn't yield the best results. Thanks for making that clear! You're the best man, wishing you continued success on your channel! 👊
Thanks Charles!
Excellent video! I am just starting on my first cabinet building project. First run is a cabinet to mount my drill press. Then on to replacing all my kitchen cabinets. Not certain if I am crazy for tackling this or nor.
Hahaha no way to learn like jumping in!
This is very useful video and really appreciate your animations showing various size calculations. Thank you!
Ha thanks!
UV Coated is your second guess. UV light is used to cure the coating making it more durable and scratch resistant. Great videos keep them coming.
Super Video, Greetings from Vienna.
Fantastic video. Really breaks things down into manageable, easy to understand bites.
Great video. Thanks
You're welcome 🤗
This video is so timely. Almost pulled out the domino for a built in bar that I'm doing, but will go with pocket holes instead.
Pocket holes and cabinets go together!
Awesome!!! I also use your cabinet plans I purchased a while ago as a great go to reference when I work build cabinets myself. 👍🏽
Thanks for your content and instructional style.
👊
The right tools make a tremendous difference!
Thanks for explaining things in a clear, concise way.
For the second tip where you use a scrap piece of plywood to set your drawer slides at the proper height you might as well make a little jig for it that you can reuse over and over again plus you'll be able to add a 90 degree on the bottom to support it so it doesn't fall over.
it would essentially work a lot like your drawer handle jig.
Good idea!
The "J" word is no longer permitted. That's now referred to as a fixture ;-)
@@dougtilaran3496 jig?
@@jeffshackleford3152 No longer permitted " fixture is PC
@@dougtilaran3496 You know where you can put your PC advice? Up ............
One of the first tools I bought after my table saw was the castle. The pockets don’t look like amateur hour, they look machined and precise (which they are).
🙌
Thanks Mate, excellent video - very helpful. *highfive* from Australia
Thank you sir!
Great video. I would love to watch you install some hinges.
Great video! Simplifying some seemingly complex issues.
Thanks Ted! Glad to help out.
Yeah that Rockler drawer slide jig is the biggest piece of junk I’ve ever bought, fully 3/16” off 90 degrees from the face over its length. I had it for too long before trying it and couldn’t return it, it’s the only tool I’ve ever just tossed in the garbage unused. The method you show is by far the best, even though I don’t really have that much scrap hat large sitting around 🙂
Great video! Very informative! 👊🏼
Thanks!
Love pocket holes for construction. My Kreg jig is made completely of aircraft aluminum with steal inserts. it is one of the first ones that the company made and is about 30 years old and it is still being used although I have a newer jig now. I like the box you have for the jig. Thanks for this video...
Great information! Thanks for sharing!
You're welcome Dennis!
Lots of excellent tips there, Matt! Thanks a bunch! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you!
I love prefinshed plywood
Yeah it's a game changer
Excellent video. Thank you!
You're welcome 😊
Good info.
Helpful video. Thanks for sharing.
UVlight is used during the finishing process so the plywood can be stacked at the end of the finishing process
Yeah I've since done some research of Columbia Forrest Products process and learned the same thing
Could you make a video on table saw setup please
You missed one:
Attaching cabinet doors. How do you attach cabinet doors and ensure they are straight, they close well and are spaced correctly?
Enjoyed the video. Thank you! One ? - I've recently tried pocket hole assembly of drawer boxes and can't find a screw head that works with 1/2" Baltic without protruding past the primary surface. Is that why you are using 5/8?
Yeah pocket screws aren't really a good option for 1/2. You can do it but you need a special adapter
Are you still using Nashville plywood since they moved?
Excellent video. Love your content. One question I have is how wide do you make your drawers, particularly when using side mount slides. Do you subtract just the width of the slides from the carcass?
Correct. For full extension side mounts, subtract 1 inch from the width of the opening.
Hope you don’t mind hearing it again, but, THANKS! Great info and great use of my last 17:31 plus another 20 or so replaying, browsing linked products/merch, etc. 👍🏻👍🏻
UV Plywood uses a UV resistant coating to protect it from fading.
Very good but you did not cover undermount for slides spacing versus side mount spacing four box sizes of drawers
I'm a newbie wanting to build my own kitchen cabinets and my preference is to use a separate kick plate. If I'm using a separate kick plate, do I subtract the height of the kick plate from the standard height of the base kitchen cabinet? For example, if the height of my kick plate is 3.5 inches, the height of my base cabinet will be 31 inches (34.5 inches - 3.5 inches). Is this correct?
Great advice! Exactly what I used to use to coach new programmers and engineers in CPU design. Keep it up!
A good compromise for the castle pocket hole machine is the Kreg Foreman. Very fast and easy to use for around $300.
Yeah you just have to be careful with bit breakage. A big issue with the foreman because it still uses the same drill bit as a regular kreg jig but not really designed for that much efficiency like the Castle machines which use routers instead.
Great tutorial. Whats your opinion on plywood thickness for face frame cabinets. 1/2 or 3/4 for sides and 1/4 or 1/2 for the back?
I use 3/4 for the carcass and 1/4 for the back
Great video, thanks man
Thank you Zach!
“One day you might use it for something” hahahaha ok I’m not the only one
Depending on which true position jig they have a shelf pin jig included also
Thats true they do have an attachment for shelf pins!
Thanks for the videos. I really enjoy your style of teaching! I have purchased the plans and am in the process of building some cabinets for my shop. I see that you used prefinished plywood for your boxes. Do you use any kind of finish on the face frames and drawers on your shop furniture? If I am using unfinished plywood and will be using Hickory for the frame, should I be using a finish? or is it not necessary since it is "just shop" furniture? Thanks again!
I think you can do whatever you want. I like mine unfinished for my shop.
very nicely done vid. thank you. one question about drilling shelf pin holes with a router.... what bits are you using? i know end mills are horrible for drilling and ive burnt up quite a few that way on the cnc.
The LR 32 system comes with it's own bits that are a hybrid of a drill bit and router bit to make clean holes on both sides of the cut
Funny for aligning drawer slides on the sides of the cabinets I've been using the same approach for year. But with the price of plywood, I've gone to keeping smaller scraps, and join joining them together with Domino for new cabinets.
Great vid! I’m a SpecTape man from way back! Thanks for sharing. Scott
Was considering using one side finished plywood. Do you sand the finish and primer before painting the pre finished or just prime and paint without sanding?
prime and paint without sanding
Great info! Thanks
Thank you!
Nashville, TN..... I'm just up the road in Clarksville.
👋
Excellent video. I sure wish I'd seen it 3 months ago:-) BTW, how do you record audio in your shop with no echo? I can't seem to find the right formula.
What brand of side mount soft close drawer slides do you use? For the most part, I have had bad luck with all that I have used. I realize a precise installation is key to them, but still...
I don't have a brand that I favor on side mounts. I get whatever home depot or Amazon sells. I find all side mount slides to be virtually the same.
great video, thanks, man!
GREAT video, so helpful......thanks for making it!!! I'm working with prefinished plywood for the first time right now. Is there a good way to apply finish (and what kind to use) to the exposed cut edges or should they just be left unfinished? Never knew you could paint it either so thanks for sharing how to do that. When you use the double sided tape for drawer slides, etc. do you just leave it on the project or take off after the holes are drilled and before installation? Thanks so much if you can answer these questions!
In professional world, we would use spray lacquer or whatever spray clear it was. Just make sure that it matches the color fairly well.
Just spray that on the exposed edge of the drawer boxes facing up. Other than that, I can't think of any spot where you would have visible plywood end grain.
@@jeffshackleford3152 Thanks so much for taking the time to reply Jeff! You're the only one I received an answer from so appreciate it!!!
@@SawdustmakerLori No prob.
I personally would test it out on a scrap, give it like an hour to dry, then see if you like it or if it matches well enough to be passable.
It won't be perfect match, but that is the easiest way to handle that issue that I know of.
@@jeffshackleford3152 Great advice.....I'll do that. Thanks again and have a great upcoming week!
@@SawdustmakerLori Iron on edge banding is also easy to get the hang of. Watco satin matches well.
Hi what’s the model of the small drill your using to place the screws in, thanks great video’s helps out lots
The cabinet man is back
🙌👊
Do i have to put a base on the cabnet
What do you mean like a toe kick?
Yes
You can also build a separate base and set the cabinets on them
Some great tips. I can't access your plans on your website as according to my antivirus software your website has malware. Just thought you should know so you could fix it.
Thanks for the notice, but it doesn't have any malware! You can also go to shopmwawoodworks.com and buy them there as well.
What kind of router bit do you use when doing shelf pin holes?
I use the ones that come with the festool lr32 system. 5mm
How do you determine the size of the face frame openings for drawers? Is it standardized, custom or both?
I usually make my face frames with a 1/4" or 1/8" overhang on the inside of the cabinet
I watched your cabinet video (fantastic) and am using that info to build my miter saw bench. This video answered some questions but I still have one more. Concerning the 1/4" plywood back panel, Is it for squaring the cabinet or just so it looks finished from the inside? I'm thinking it isn't necessary for a shop miter saw station when all the cabinets will have drawers so the back of the cabinet isn't visible.
You don't have to include the 1/4 backs, just the nailers and stretchers are important for structure
@@MWAWoodworks awesome, thanks. I can save my extra sheet of quarter inch birch ply for more drawer bottoms and french cleat holders. I really appreciate the quick response since I'm starting to cut the carcasses tomorrow morning. You're the best.
Question about the pocket hole jig from Enjoywood. Do the kreg drilling bits fit on it or that one use metric size bits?
It uses the same size bits and same size screws
The only thing I didn't like about the first jig I bought was that you have to reach around the wood to engage the clamp and with real wide wood, this is almost impossible...
Do you have a video on how you paint these with the Sherwin Williams paint products? And do you seal the edges of the face to face frames on the doors or leave them clean? And are the faces pre-finished 1/4” ply too?
I do have a video on my painting process
Can you leave a link for the video you have on how you paint pre finished plywood? I am curious if you need to sand first.
This video solves a lot of problems and will save me sooo much time in building cabinets. Building them upside down is a simple solution to a difficult procedure. why in the hell didn't think of that. If we really want to punish Putin we make him install drawer glides for eternity without watching this video!!!!. Thanks a Bunch young man.
😀
Thank you!
You're welcome
Great info on some good tips and tricks. I enjoy cabinet making, and some of these tips will only make building them that much faster and easier. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
I used your methods/techniques, not dimensions, to make cabinets for a crafting area for my wife, and I now finally get to make my shop cabinets. I bought your miter saw station plans, but I can't for the life of me find Baltic birch plywood, or 5/8 cabinet grade plywood for that matter. Do you think I can use 1/2 plywood in its place, or would you recommend going up to 3/4? The drawers is where I'm most concerned, seems like 3/4 inch sides and backs, with 1/4 bottom is kinda weird. Can't decide whether to go with 3/4 sides and backs, and maybe 1/2 bottoms or 1/2 sides and backs, with 1/4 bottoms. I'll definitely go up to 3/4 for the shallow drawer that'll hold the glue and heavier items.
Yes 5/8 Baltic Birch is very hard to find right now. You can drop down to 1/2" and I think it would be fine however you need to have a special spacer jig for your pocket holes because the kreg jig doesn't natively cut pocket holes for 1/2×1/2" joints you may have to build the drawers with tongue and groove joints.
@@MWAWoodworks, thanks for replying, puts my mind at ease!! I'll just have to make sure I adjust the length of the fronts and backs since I'm using thinner plywood. Or I guess I could put the pocket holes on the sides and use the same measurements from the cut list, but they'd be visible. My pocket hole jig allows me to adjust it for what thickness of wood I'm using, I made the drawers for that crafting room project using 1/2 plywood. I was just concerned since this is for my shop, and they may take on a little more abuse than a crafting room. Again, thanks for replying, love your videos!
@@MWAWoodworks, As I mentioned I bought the miter saw plans around a year ago, just finally running through the cultist. I'm noticing that some of the cut list quantities don't seem right. As an example there's one that is a back panel for the two door upper, says 2 in the cut list, but in the layout it only has me cutting one. Also the stretchers seem off, there's only 9 listed in the cut list, but the layout has me cutting 30 of them. And I know in the video you showed 2 different ways to make the upper cabinets, traditional and easy method, which method matches up with the cut list dimensions? In the easy method you just sandwich the top and bottom in-between the two sides, and attach them with pocket screws, but in the traditional method they sit in a dato. That would throw off the measurements for the face frames and doors unless I'm thinking about it wrong.
@@MWAWoodworks Also, why would the stiles and center panel for the double door be 1/4 inch taller then the single door?
@@MWAWoodworks also, Ive found the plans call for 1/4 back panels, but the cut list is 1/2 inch. Everything I've stated, I've been able to account for/adjust with minimal waste. But what's the point of buying plans if I have to reverse engineer them? Also, to figure out which version of upper cabinets, I saw that the top and bottom of the cabinet was a full inch shorter in depth. So I figured the cultist was for traditional style, if it was the easy version they would only be a half inch shorter so the back panel could fit in the half inch rabbit. So I went ahead and cut the half inch dato, half inch in and I'll use half inch stretchers. Also cut the 3/4 dato in the sides to accept the tops and bottoms. Problem is, the back panel was too big to fit. So the tops and bottoms widths are for the easy shop version where you use pocket holes to attach them, so now I have 3/4 datos for no reason. I can either live with it, or fill them in with plywood strips, planed down to 3/8.