I am a qualified experienced coating chemist I endorse everything you said about the paint. White spirit borne enamel paints are Alkyd Bound and perform very well I have used it on boats my whole 65yrs the disadvantages are less tough and hard wearing but still pretty good less waterproof but still pretty good certainly good enough for a trailer boat and slower curing as you have said they are also a bit less durable to UV etc. They do have advantages apart from cost though they actually are easier to get a nice finish with basic application tools and can give better looking finishes in general with brush and roller in other words a bit more amateur proof. Also much much easier to maintain a simple sand and another coat after a few years brings it back to new. So while I mostly use the epoxy and 2 pack PU I do still use enamel on my dinghies and interior of my keel boat.
Well that's a good back-up to my simple observation of my friends success with this coating. The ease of re-coating is a very attractive bonus. I'll pin this comment if you don't mind.
Troy, I also can confirm the use of Penetrol in an oil based paint is the way to go. Back 30+ years ago I was using this method on a racing dinghy and sailed at a national level (top5), winning the odd race at Nationals). After making sure my self-built boat had a perfect surface, I BRUSHED about 6 coats of paint with Penetrol at the maximum recommended level, then hit the paint with wet-and-dry sandpaper after each coat. Clean off, go again until it was flawless . The Penetrol levelled the paint on each coat to the extent that you would swear that the paint was sprayed. I was aiming for the paint to fill the very smallest of imperfections in the surface of the hull. Was this a lot of work.? Yes. But it was a racing boat. Nobody got past me if the situation was a drag race to a mark. I was always sailing lower and faster to the mark. The limitation was the skipper, not the boat. Downsides? None for me. Yes, The hull was always wet-and-dry sanded and left in that state for major events. No polishing etc. If the hull was dry, the surface could look flat and not shiny enough for some. When the hull was wet and sailing along, it glistened. Laminar flow was great.
@@FreeRangeLiving Yes pin that I kept it simple as its a very big subject and my intention was to back your comment up. For more discussion there are products in the middle ground. The one you used was a mid range known Brand household paint there are also 'marine' grade Alkyd enamels which are significantly better quality then we have PU modified enamels and a few others in several brand names. Like I said its a very big field. One overlooked area is the industrial paint suppliers some very good technology out there.
Great video. I'm learning so much from the commenters as well as both you and Pascale. Appreciate your patience, precision & knowledge. Also allow me to be one of the 1st to congratulate you 2 (as it is the end of August) for committing your lives to each other. Best wishes & be well.
Moving right along and looking great. I didn't paint my centerboard, the wood just looked too pretty even though it would rarely be seen. I used Epifanes clear boat varnish, about 3 coats if I remember correctly, mostly because I had a good supply on hand, but there is absolutely nothing wrong with your choice either. It looks great and as you pointed out it should be pretty durable. It's starting to really look like a boat.
I use the very same paint on all my small boat builds. George Beuhler amongst others recommends it, and in any case i always seem to have tins of it hanging round after house projects, so why waste it, or spend money on yacht paint? I do tend to prime glassed and epoxied surfaces with Norglass (eg.) 2-part primer, and for boats that live in the water I do use the real deal top coat. The house enamel lasts very well.
@@FreeRangeLiving yes but not a professional grade spray gun with a compressor. This was back in the day of HQ Holdens. There was something called a "little beaver" diy spray gun... Results were decent.
I remember those. About that time, I had a Datsun 1600 with a bored out 180B motor before 'maturing' to an HT wagon with bench seat, 3 on the tree and a 186 I shaved a few thou off the head.
Nice work! On your refit down in Tassie you used water based (emulsion) Alkyd enamel for the interior. How do you feel it compares with the more traditional oil enamel paint your using here? Obviously less oder in a confined space, but any other differences? Hardness? Quality of finish?
It did a pretty good job, and we didn't see any coating failures. The finish didn't really compare, though it was a flat finish, and it never had to deal with water, thank goodness, so there is a point we can't compare.
I am a qualified experienced coating chemist I endorse everything you said about the paint. White spirit borne enamel paints are Alkyd Bound and perform very well I have used it on boats my whole 65yrs the disadvantages are less tough and hard wearing but still pretty good less waterproof but still pretty good certainly good enough for a trailer boat and slower curing as you have said they are also a bit less durable to UV etc. They do have advantages apart from cost though they actually are easier to get a nice finish with basic application tools and can give better looking finishes in general with brush and roller in other words a bit more amateur proof. Also much much easier to maintain a simple sand and another coat after a few years brings it back to new. So while I mostly use the epoxy and 2 pack PU I do still use enamel on my dinghies and interior of my keel boat.
Well that's a good back-up to my simple observation of my friends success with this coating. The ease of re-coating is a very attractive bonus. I'll pin this comment if you don't mind.
Troy, I also can confirm the use of Penetrol in an oil based paint is the way to go. Back 30+ years ago I was using this method on a racing dinghy and sailed at a national level (top5), winning the odd race at Nationals). After making sure my self-built boat had a perfect surface, I BRUSHED about 6 coats of paint with Penetrol at the maximum recommended level, then hit the paint with wet-and-dry sandpaper after each coat. Clean off, go again until it was flawless . The Penetrol levelled the paint on each coat to the extent that you would swear that the paint was sprayed. I was aiming for the paint to fill the very smallest of imperfections in the surface of the hull. Was this a lot of work.? Yes. But it was a racing boat.
Nobody got past me if the situation was a drag race to a mark. I was always sailing lower and faster to the mark. The limitation was the skipper, not the boat.
Downsides? None for me. Yes, The hull was always wet-and-dry sanded and left in that state for major events. No polishing etc. If the hull was dry, the surface could look flat and not shiny enough for some. When the hull was wet and sailing along, it glistened. Laminar flow was great.
@@FreeRangeLiving Yes pin that I kept it simple as its a very big subject and my intention was to back your comment up.
For more discussion there are products in the middle ground. The one you used was a mid range known Brand household paint there are also 'marine' grade Alkyd enamels which are significantly better quality then we have PU modified enamels and a few others in several brand names. Like I said its a very big field. One overlooked area is the industrial paint suppliers some very good technology out there.
Well, there you have it. I thought the choice might be a bit odd, but it seems well supported!
Hurry up and finish the boat 😂 You were my favourite sailing channel...
The level of workmanship is outstanding. The centreboard housing fitted like a glove.
I make homebrews here in Canada using Coopers kits from Australia!!! CHEERS from HERE
Congratulations Troy! Everything is looking great and I suppose the exciting part is starting now. Best. Enjoying the process immensely.
Well done Troy. Another great vid. The more I see of that router, the more convinced I am of its usefulness. Great milestone, worthy of a celebration.
The main accessory for a router is your imagination. Really versatile tool.
Thanks!
Welcome!
Great video. I'm learning so much from the commenters as well as both you and Pascale. Appreciate your patience, precision & knowledge. Also allow me to be one of the 1st to congratulate you 2 (as it is the end of August) for committing your lives to each other. Best wishes & be well.
Moving right along and looking great. I didn't paint my centerboard, the wood just looked too pretty even though it would rarely be seen. I used Epifanes clear boat varnish, about 3 coats if I remember correctly, mostly because I had a good supply on hand, but there is absolutely nothing wrong with your choice either. It looks great and as you pointed out it should be pretty durable. It's starting to really look like a boat.
VERY COOL!!!!! Coming together nicely
Well done as always
Please include shots of the farm, family, and animals. 🏡
Thanks for sharing.
The cow has had a cameo, and the cats and dogs pass through, but I will do.
Top work as always Troy
Thanks
Towards that beer, shipmate! 🎉😊 🍺
I'll have one with you in mind sir
I use the very same paint on all my small boat builds. George Beuhler amongst others recommends it, and in any case i always seem to have tins of it hanging round after house projects, so why waste it, or spend money on yacht paint? I do tend to prime glassed and epoxied surfaces with Norglass (eg.) 2-part primer, and for boats that live in the water I do use the real deal top coat. The house enamel lasts very well.
Cheers.
Deluxe super enamel..... 😊👍the secret is out....
The boat is looking great and so did that beer. Was there any Fuggles or East Kent Golding hops in it? cheers.
That was just a Coopers Bootmakers Ale. Nothing special, but tasty all the same.
Painted a few cars with Dulux Super Enamel. We used to call it "jam"
Spray gun?
@@FreeRangeLiving yes but not a professional grade spray gun with a compressor. This was back in the day of HQ Holdens. There was something called a "little beaver" diy spray gun... Results were decent.
I remember those. About that time, I had a Datsun 1600 with a bored out 180B motor before 'maturing' to an HT wagon with bench seat, 3 on the tree and a 186 I shaved a few thou off the head.
I also ended up using the equivalent on a GP14 and a pool slide. It's a whole lot less expensive than the 2 part coatings and easy to work with.
Was the GP14 wood or glass?
@@FreeRangeLiving glass. The flexibility is probably the best thing about it.
@@FreeRangeLiving glass with a very bendy deck!
Nice work! On your refit down in Tassie you used water based (emulsion) Alkyd enamel for the interior. How do you feel it compares with the more traditional oil enamel paint your using here? Obviously less oder in a confined space, but any other differences? Hardness? Quality of finish?
It did a pretty good job, and we didn't see any coating failures. The finish didn't really compare, though it was a flat finish, and it never had to deal with water, thank goodness, so there is a point we can't compare.