Awesome video with some really good tips! I'll reiterate a tip that I learned from you that you didn't mention here: use 60/40 solder when working with MCPCBs. Its lower melting point really helps.
I've been using 67/37 leaded solder paste. The window is narrower than 60/40. I wonder if 60/40 would be easier when trying to tap an LED to shoot excess solder out 🤣
I believe I was the one that "called you out" regarding the tinning of the tip although I wouldn't call it calling you out. It was a friendly advice. Maybe you knew it already, maybe you didn't. Doesn't matter. I thought it might help someone down the road because it preserves the tip and it's a good habit so I mentioned it. There no shame in learning something new. I learned quite a lot of things on your channel.
A few suggestions: At the very end of the video, the positive side looks soldered alright I guess, but the negative (black) side still looks like it didn't flow together properly, it looks like a solder blob sitting in a well-like blob of solder. It should flow nicely together and form one homogenous blob, with the wire embedded in it. What I'm seeing is that you keep touching the joint multiple times for short periods of time. I'd suggest "committing" to the joint, heating it up properly one time (should be quite easy with that powerful iron), so all of the solder on the joint it molten, then remove the iron and let it solidify. A lot of people treat soldering irons like hot glue guns, smearing the solder onto the joint without ever heating it all up at once. This is obviously not that bad (at all), but it reminds me a bit of that. The iron should heat the pad and the wire at the same time.
I 100% was soldering by looking through a small camera screen. It’s ridiculously hard. After I stopped rolling, I redid a lot of the soldering with my eyes through my magnifying glass.
Suggestions: When dealing with electronic/electrical devices, your flux should always be rosin based. Your comment about rosin being acidic could lead people astray. Plumbing solder flux is acid based and will eventually destroy electronic connections. Don’t use it! I recommend a eutectic solder like Multicore 63/37 22 gauge. This has five rosin cores in the solder itself so you don’t need separate flux. 63/37 is the tin/lead content. This may be difficult to find and expensive as it contains lead and the powers that be want to protect you from lead fumes. The common electronic solder now available most places just doesn’t work as well as the “bad” stuff. When you’re soldering the two items together, you get the best connection when the heated tip is applied to both areas involved in the connection. At this point apply the solder and it will flow onto, in this case, both the pad and wire.
I got the same soldering station and I found that at 350 Celsius the temperature is just not high enough to melt the solder quickly so I tweaked it to 380 Celsius and it works well. Perhaps my soldering iron tip is of inferior quality and the heat transfer is poorer so I need to work with higher temperature.
Sweet! Do you have any tips on tiny AUX wires? I am using a linear driver from hank to make my own light and they truly are tiny! 60/40 solder and proper tweezers were my big improvements.
Use heat shrinking tubing to get the unsoldered aux wires through the hole in the MCPCB/aux board. Then after that, slip the tubing off and solder with tweezers is what I do.
Every time I have to solder something on a mcpcb, sitting on a shelf inside the light is truly an awful experience. I can never transfer the heat quickly enough to actually solder it. I end up having to heat the whole head with a heat gun to actually get the solder to stick… I have a soldering station that reaches 480C and it still isn’t enough… I really don’t know what to do anymore…
That’s where these JBC style T3A stations are amazing. Seriously, I used to use a Weller soldering station for years, and this is a whole new ball game.
These soldering points are so small, that they heat up nearly instantly. I don’t *think* they are considered cold solders, and when you tug, they don’t come loose.
I believe they are. In the way that they haven't been heated up properly for the solder to flow around the whole joint. The solder in the wires usually melted, but the solder on the pad only melted partially on the surface, it didn't really flow together.
Apply your solder to the wire being soldered and not the soldering iron tip. If you're going to do it like in the video then use a gel/liquid no clean solder flux on the joint. Also a good 63/37 eutectic solder 0.5-1mm diameter.
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Awesome video with some really good tips! I'll reiterate a tip that I learned from you that you didn't mention here: use 60/40 solder when working with MCPCBs. Its lower melting point really helps.
I've been using 67/37 leaded solder paste. The window is narrower than 60/40. I wonder if 60/40 would be easier when trying to tap an LED to shoot excess solder out 🤣
I believe I was the one that "called you out" regarding the tinning of the tip although I wouldn't call it calling you out. It was a friendly advice. Maybe you knew it already, maybe you didn't. Doesn't matter. I thought it might help someone down the road because it preserves the tip and it's a good habit so I mentioned it. There no shame in learning something new. I learned quite a lot of things on your channel.
I wasn’t offended at all! I said it that way for humor.
Great stuff. Thanks for sharing your hard earned knowledge.
A few suggestions: At the very end of the video, the positive side looks soldered alright I guess, but the negative (black) side still looks like it didn't flow together properly, it looks like a solder blob sitting in a well-like blob of solder. It should flow nicely together and form one homogenous blob, with the wire embedded in it. What I'm seeing is that you keep touching the joint multiple times for short periods of time. I'd suggest "committing" to the joint, heating it up properly one time (should be quite easy with that powerful iron), so all of the solder on the joint it molten, then remove the iron and let it solidify. A lot of people treat soldering irons like hot glue guns, smearing the solder onto the joint without ever heating it all up at once. This is obviously not that bad (at all), but it reminds me a bit of that. The iron should heat the pad and the wire at the same time.
I 100% was soldering by looking through a small camera screen. It’s ridiculously hard. After I stopped rolling, I redid a lot of the soldering with my eyes through my magnifying glass.
Thanks for another cool video! Excited to try my hand at this stuff soon.
Thank you again for such a great Vid, please consider a presentation on how to start modding on a budget?
I loved soldering with my grandpa! He also showed that you can use an aspirin pill instead of flux.
What a good tip!
AVRdude stuff... I need to learn that! Awesome video. need that soldering station
The T3A is a MUST.
Suggestions:
When dealing with electronic/electrical devices, your flux should always be rosin based. Your comment about rosin being acidic could lead people astray. Plumbing solder flux is acid based and will eventually destroy electronic connections. Don’t use it!
I recommend a eutectic solder like Multicore 63/37 22 gauge. This has five rosin cores in the solder itself so you don’t need separate flux. 63/37 is the tin/lead content. This may be difficult to find and expensive as it contains lead and the powers that be want to protect you from lead fumes. The common electronic solder now available most places just doesn’t work as well as the “bad” stuff.
When you’re soldering the two items together, you get the best connection when the heated tip is applied to both areas involved in the connection. At this point apply the solder and it will flow onto, in this case, both the pad and wire.
I got the same soldering station and I found that at 350 Celsius the temperature is just not high enough to melt the solder quickly so I tweaked it to 380 Celsius and it works well. Perhaps my soldering iron tip is of inferior quality and the heat transfer is poorer so I need to work with higher temperature.
I found it depends on the solder. The solder manufacturers use, I usually go to 400°, but mine works at 350°
Sweet! Do you have any tips on tiny AUX wires? I am using a linear driver from hank to make my own light and they truly are tiny! 60/40 solder and proper tweezers were my big improvements.
Use heat shrinking tubing to get the unsoldered aux wires through the hole in the MCPCB/aux board. Then after that, slip the tubing off and solder with tweezers is what I do.
Thanks. Is flux the same as pickling agent?
I’ve never heard that term before. Maybe it’s a regional term?
Can we get product links? Soldering station, round clamp, soldering stand, magnifying glass, microscope
Hello. What brand is that glass jar with pump? Thank you.
On Amazon it’s listed as “JS&Walk 80ml Empty One Touch” but there are a lot of others too
@@cheule Thank you.
are you gonna swap the emitters on your magnifying glass?.... is it high CRI? ahaha
Don’t even tempt me!
Every time I have to solder something on a mcpcb, sitting on a shelf inside the light is truly an awful experience. I can never transfer the heat quickly enough to actually solder it. I end up having to heat the whole head with a heat gun to actually get the solder to stick… I have a soldering station that reaches 480C and it still isn’t enough… I really don’t know what to do anymore…
That’s where these JBC style T3A stations are amazing. Seriously, I used to use a Weller soldering station for years, and this is a whole new ball game.
I have to ask since this is a how to video, aren’t most of these cold solders?
These soldering points are so small, that they heat up nearly instantly. I don’t *think* they are considered cold solders, and when you tug, they don’t come loose.
I believe they are. In the way that they haven't been heated up properly for the solder to flow around the whole joint. The solder in the wires usually melted, but the solder on the pad only melted partially on the surface, it didn't really flow together.
Apply your solder to the wire being soldered and not the soldering iron tip.
If you're going to do it like in the video then use a gel/liquid no clean solder flux on the joint.
Also a good 63/37 eutectic solder 0.5-1mm diameter.