I'm new to your channel (i have reloaded many cals) but you have a great way of talking through every step. What and why you're doing it. Very educational. Good work...buying a .50bmg today :)
Bullet jump is not called “runout”. Runout is the concentricity of the projectile or neck to the centerline of the cartridge, measured in thousandths of an inch. Basically if the bullet is seated crooked or not. The distance from the ogive of the bullet to the lands of the rifle is called bullet jump.
The primer should be .005" below flush, or u can get misfires because the f pin is doing the final seating, but the 50's have such a strong firing pin strike it workes.
I did not get any ear plugs or aspirin with mine, got 130+ round of API, a Pelican case, scope and gun with by-pod. Not like the damn aspirin would do any good, I had to take prescription Zomig to get rid of my headache and I was lucky I had the roll up foam ear protection and reg hard case plastic ear muffs to go over my ears for double protection, was not really loud after all that, just the damn shockwave that went up my nose that felt like someone punched me and could taste blood like when you hit your nose real hard but worse. Next time I am going to stick a pair of nose plugs in so it stops that too. Again, it did not kick, things weigh 35 pounds, that alone takes up a lot of the recoil but the big thing pad on the back helped a lot too. How these guys fire these things full auto is a damn mystery, no hearing protection, and full auto? No way in hell I could do that, I guess the bullets flying in their direction helps a bit, but still that has to hurt, I bet many of those soldiers are death or just about when they get home.
Fyi the ammo master press is kind of easy to modify for cannon shells, i altered mine to 45x310r mm ussr a.t.g. by opening up top plate to 2" x12 thread make neck & seat die, longer top plt. Rods 22" long & big ass shell holder.
little things not the end of the world but for those learning from this video try not to handle the primers (oils in skin) and you should seat and crimp separately, but good video thank you.
You ever do this. Seating a PRIMER it got very rough guess it went in crooked but I couldn't back out now it was go all the way. Well guess what. IT IGNITED scared the shit out of me. No eye protection or ear plugs and it was load. I won't do that again. That's a big primer
That's a lot of switching around parts to load just one round of get annoyd doing that. Have you looked into getting a Lee that pretty much does everything with pull of a handle. I can't remember the model but pretty much everything goes around completing one thing very efficient and time saving.
+Jay Cerda To my knowledge there is no 50 BMG progressive press... this is the one that I reload that I don't shoot a ton so I'm not too worried about speed. Thanks for the comment though!
The Hogdon powder I buy locally and the Barnes bullets... I live within 30min of the factory, so I get them direct. As far as pulled down components I just watch online and search “military pulled down ammo” a few places offer it. Top Brass is one that has good deals periodically. Thanks for the comment Stephen, happy shootin and stay safe out there!!😀
Sorry you really didn't show us a thing... yes we all know the STEPS but what about SHOWING how you adjust your dies to get the correct sizing???? like when you SEAT the bullet how far do you adjust your die?? 1. When you run your brass up the DIE you adjust the die so it just touches the case?? do you back it off a 1/2 turn or 1/2 turn?? 2. Do you CRIMP the bullet ALSO???
I size the die all the way till I touch the shell plate... I don't back off 1/2 or even 1/4 turn. I very lightly.... Very lightly crimp. As far as seating depth... Now your getting into it, there is no right or wrong answer here... The 50 likes a lot of runout (jump) to the riflings. Barnes recommended me to give upwards of .050 of an inch. Long story short you will need to do a lot of test rounds to see what your rifle wants. Watch my vid on smoke testing that will give you a place to start.
+Regular Guy oh. I'm loading the BARRETT 416 about the same thing. It's a BLAST and saves me $4-$5.50 a round. That's crazy so far saved $200 not counting my other calibers
Ya I crunched a couple... I barely crimp... You can just start to see the indent on the case lip... If you are loading a "solid" like a copper III shock or a brass banded solid don't try to crimp. You'll run into a lot of problems.
+Regular Guy I load the BARRETT 416 and its $2.75 per case and so far crunched 5. SHIT. so now I'm super careful when it come to seating the bullet. If I feel any pressure I back off and it doesn't take much to wrinkle the neck brass down. It's weird like the outer skin on the neck just was pushed down and made mess. NOT COOL Might get your email to get some hints or info. Thanks
Thank you very much for you video. It seems that most of the problems arise from press failures seem to be due to inadequate lube. May I ask what kind of lube you are using? Also, do you tumble or clean your casings before resizing?
sorry I just noticed your comment... as far as the lube goes I like the Dillon brand, but I also mix my own. Its just rubbing alcohol and lanolin (look for lanolin with no other ingredients, it can be fount in the baby section in most stores). To answer the case cleaning question I tumble the cases with crushed walnut shells, then size them, and tumble again but this time with crushed corn cob. This gives a really nice shine.
After you size do you tumble again to get the lube off or just wipe it off. I mix my own lube easy Lanolin and 99% alcohol. I bought 1 gal of this and 50 bottles of red alcohol HEET very cheap. But I noticed there some lube inside the case neck not much. Hope this doesn't effect my burn??
Hope it's ok to post this?... An e mail for me is jdjohnsonphoto@gmail.com I don't use this one much any more but if you message me on it I'll give you one I use more frequently.
He Regular Guy. I have a Armalite 50 BMG and a Noreen .416. I want to start reloading this rounds. I looked at Lehigh defense rounds and I will be using my Lee Classic press. Have you had any experience with there .416 Match grade, .416dia and 650gr, 510dia match grade brass bullets? Barrett is just to costly?
How long does brass last for? And how do you remove the crimping from Federal brass? WC872 seems to be way cheaper than Hodgdon H50BMG. Any reason to go with the Hodgdon? Thanks!!
I do remove the crimp, you need to do this to get the primer to seat right. I have another vid that I show case annealing, if you do that your brass will last longer not sure on the 50 yet but creedmore around 5times longer and 223 about 7-8 times longer.
As far as the powder I have used both... Getting way better Accuracy with Hodgdon... That could be different with other rifles/loads. Thanks for the comment!! Happy Shooting
he, i got a question for you: how much space would you want to have between the bullet and the rifling? so how big of a jump would you want the bullet to make on a .50 cal? if your cases really stretch a lot; you should check the headspacing on your gun. thanks! Jeff
Hi Jeff so when I load I do trim each time I reload but I’m real big on annealing the case so it helps keep that to a minimum as far as runout I worked with Barnes Bullets to create a load and a tech over there recommended 30 to 50 thousand’ths of an inch I think this really depends on what bullet and what your rifle likes I would recommend just experimenting a lot. I found in mine I was either loading the banded solid from Barnes or the triple shock, the triple shock is more of a hunting style bullet but my 50 absolutely loves them. A lot of times I’m using pull down military surplus bullets but if I put together more of an accuracy load, I like that triple shock. Anyway hope this helps thanks for the comment .
Im reading up on reloading. Reading ABC of reloading now. They state: if you are running hot loads, the cases will stretch. Be sure to trim the case lenght wise an to strim the neck thickness so you bullet will still feed into the case. Trimming neckthickness is not alwayse necessary, but be sure to check this to. What i meaned to ask is: how deep are you seating your bullets? Do you allow the bullets to tuch the rifling? Or do you seat them so they are almost tuching the rifling. The question: how much of a gap (or no gap at all) are you leaving between the bullet and the bullet tuching the rifling? Nice to know you are leaving a longer neck on your casings, but this can lead to higher chamber pressures wich can lead to a damaged gun. Just saying.. Thanks!
I think you misunderstood me I do trim the neck to the spec OAL and then as far as runout, distance the bullet travels till it hits the rifling’s is between .030-.050 There’s a video that I did this I think it was entitled smoke testing but it’s how I find and measure that distance to my rifelings, And then I experiment doing different run out, different powders, and different bullets all of that kind of stuff.
Regular Guy cool! yeah its a dream of me to shoot a .50 cal gun. a bill holmes .50 one day, that would be the ticket to heaven. there is a video on youtube of this guy bill holmes building one. schematics i found on scribd.com. if you have the skills and tools its cheap to build. anyway, ill look into your videos. :D thanks
I will do some cleaning/tumble prior to sizing, just depending on the brass, and where it came from. I do the majority of all my cleaning after the sizing so I don't have greasy cases (you use a lot of lube on the 50).
Sorry just saw your comment... There are so many rifles on the market now... I would say just do some online shopping then order from your local dealer, look for a precision build, heavier the better. Stay away ar15 conversions. I have an Armilite AR 50 weighs 33 pounds without scope/bipod. Being that heavy makes the recoil manageable and great from a bench.
You know I’m not really sure I know there are a lot of different brands, mine is an ArmaLite. I think it was in the neighborhood of 2500 for the rifle only back when I got it. The only thing that I would recommend is to do your homework make sure you get one that’s designed and built to be a 50. There are a few out there that were designed as kind of like an AR upper so you don’t have a heavy duty chassis under it. The ArmaLite without optics or a bipod weighs in at about 33 pounds, Which is incredibly important when you start to think about the recoil. If you go with a lightweight firearm it’s going to be incredibly hard to manage that recoil. I would love feedback of what you end up getting! Happy shootin!!
They look fun to shoot from all the youtube vid's iv'e seen, will have to check the regs here and see if I can get one or not. The Govtards here ban rifles on looks alone, so if i say 50BMG to them they will probably shit bricks. oh well you never know your luck...
Johan Schröder your typical prey will be little IFV’s ... usually a little Hilux or shitty Datsun .... one shot right to the heart and it’ll stop in it’s tracks ... ask me how I know
It depends on where your buying your ammo/or components... at a minimum for the 50 cal stuff I'm at about 50% savings and even more if I load a precision round.
I'm new to your channel
(i have reloaded many cals) but you have a great way of talking through every step. What and why you're doing it.
Very educational. Good work...buying a .50bmg today :)
Very well done... You explained it so well
Bullet jump is not called “runout”. Runout is the concentricity of the projectile or neck to the centerline of the cartridge, measured in thousandths of an inch. Basically if the bullet is seated crooked or not. The distance from the ogive of the bullet to the lands of the rifle is called bullet jump.
The primer should be .005" below flush, or u can get misfires because the f pin is doing the final seating, but the 50's have such a strong firing pin strike it workes.
Thanks for the comment Gary, if you can't have a 50 in your area check out the 416 Barret ballistics are great! It would be almost as much fun!
Nice!! Thanks for the coment. When I bought my 50 they included ear plugs and aspirin:) enjoy!!
I did not get any ear plugs or aspirin with mine, got 130+ round of API, a Pelican case, scope and gun with by-pod. Not like the damn aspirin would do any good, I had to take prescription Zomig to get rid of my headache and I was lucky I had the roll up foam ear protection and reg hard case plastic ear muffs to go over my ears for double protection, was not really loud after all that, just the damn shockwave that went up my nose that felt like someone punched me and could taste blood like when you hit your nose real hard but worse. Next time I am going to stick a pair of nose plugs in so it stops that too. Again, it did not kick, things weigh 35 pounds, that alone takes up a lot of the recoil but the big thing pad on the back helped a lot too.
How these guys fire these things full auto is a damn mystery, no hearing protection, and full auto? No way in hell I could do that, I guess the bullets flying in their direction helps a bit, but still that has to hurt, I bet many of those soldiers are death or just about when they get home.
Lol. The 50 is funner than crap to shoot! Great video.
Fyi the ammo master press is kind of easy to modify for cannon shells, i altered mine to 45x310r mm ussr a.t.g. by opening up top plate to 2" x12 thread make neck & seat die, longer top plt. Rods 22" long & big ass shell holder.
Never heard "powder your case" used to describe charging before. LOL
Just bought a 50. It's funner than crap. 😁
No I haven't... I really don't load the 50 much if I upgrade my press it will be to the Dillon, I love the Dillon stuff.
little things not the end of the world but for those learning from this video try not to handle the primers (oils in skin) and you should seat and crimp separately, but good video thank you.
Will you please send me all the details of reloading a 50 bmg with all micro to macro tools details.
You ever do this. Seating a PRIMER it got very rough guess it went in crooked but I couldn't back out now it was go all the way. Well guess what. IT IGNITED scared the shit out of me. No eye protection or ear plugs and it was load. I won't do that again. That's a big primer
Mark Dobbins Swage the primer pockets.
Any bigger and you'd be reloading an artillery shell
very helpful..
Yeah a lot of fun and a lot of powder.
That's a lot of switching around parts to load just one round of get annoyd doing that. Have you looked into getting a Lee that pretty much does everything with pull of a handle. I can't remember the model but pretty much everything goes around completing one thing very efficient and time saving.
+Jay Cerda To my knowledge there is no 50 BMG progressive press... this is the one that I reload that I don't shoot a ton so I'm not too worried about speed. Thanks for the comment though!
+Jay Cerda
Dillon has a semi progressive press, the BFR 50BMG.
yes they are fun to shoot...
Where are you scoring your Hogdgon and WC powder ? .... and where are you getting the bullets from ?
The Hogdon powder I buy locally and the Barnes bullets... I live within 30min of the factory, so I get them direct. As far as pulled down components I just watch online and search “military pulled down ammo” a few places offer it. Top Brass is one that has good deals periodically. Thanks for the comment Stephen, happy shootin and stay safe out there!!😀
Sorry you really didn't show us a thing... yes we all know the STEPS but what about SHOWING how you adjust your dies to get the correct sizing????
like when you SEAT the bullet how far do you adjust your die??
1. When you run your brass up the DIE you adjust the die so it just touches the case?? do you back it off a 1/2 turn or 1/2 turn??
2. Do you CRIMP the bullet ALSO???
I size the die all the way till I touch the shell plate... I don't back off 1/2 or even 1/4 turn. I very lightly.... Very lightly crimp. As far as seating depth... Now your getting into it, there is no right or wrong answer here... The 50 likes a lot of runout (jump) to the riflings. Barnes recommended me to give upwards of .050 of an inch. Long story short you will need to do a lot of test rounds to see what your rifle wants. Watch my vid on smoke testing that will give you a place to start.
+Regular Guy I have ruined 5 cases by crimping to much. It squash the neck down SHIT. Boy it sure didn't take much to do that. You ever squash a case
+Regular Guy oh. I'm loading the BARRETT 416 about the same thing. It's a BLAST and saves me $4-$5.50 a round. That's crazy so far saved $200 not counting my other calibers
Ya I crunched a couple... I barely crimp... You can just start to see the indent on the case lip... If you are loading a "solid" like a copper III shock or a brass banded solid don't try to crimp. You'll run into a lot of problems.
+Regular Guy I load the BARRETT 416 and its $2.75 per case and so far crunched 5. SHIT. so now I'm super careful when it come to seating the bullet. If I feel any pressure I back off and it doesn't take much to wrinkle the neck brass down. It's weird like the outer skin on the neck just was pushed down and made mess. NOT COOL Might get your email to get some hints or info. Thanks
Thank you very much for you video. It seems that most of the problems arise from press failures seem to be due to inadequate lube. May I ask what kind of lube you are using? Also, do you tumble or clean your casings before resizing?
sorry I just noticed your comment... as far as the lube goes I like the Dillon brand, but I also mix my own. Its just rubbing alcohol and lanolin (look for lanolin with no other ingredients, it can be fount in the baby section in most stores). To answer the case cleaning question I tumble the cases with crushed walnut shells, then size them, and tumble again but this time with crushed corn cob. This gives a really nice shine.
Thank you for the info. I'm just a press and a die set away from pressing my first cartridges!
After you size do you tumble again to get the lube off or just wipe it off. I mix my own lube easy Lanolin and 99% alcohol. I bought 1 gal of this and 50 bottles of red alcohol HEET very cheap. But I noticed there some lube inside the case neck not much. Hope this doesn't effect my burn??
I tumble again to clean... Never had a priming problem.
Hope it's ok to post this?... An e mail for me is jdjohnsonphoto@gmail.com
I don't use this one much any more but if you message me on it I'll give you one I use more frequently.
He Regular Guy. I have a Armalite 50 BMG and a Noreen .416. I want to start reloading this rounds. I looked at Lehigh defense rounds and I will be using my Lee Classic press. Have you had any experience with there .416 Match grade, .416dia and 650gr, 510dia match grade brass bullets? Barrett is just to costly?
Sorry no experience with a.416 the .510 stuff I like is from Barns I like the III shock.
Good stuff!! How much would all that equipment cost? Thanks
Get online and check out dillonprecision.com you can get all you need there!
How long does brass last for? And how do you remove the crimping from Federal brass?
WC872 seems to be way cheaper than Hodgdon H50BMG. Any reason to go with the Hodgdon? Thanks!!
I do remove the crimp, you need to do this to get the primer to seat right. I have another vid that I show case annealing, if you do that your brass will last longer not sure on the 50 yet but creedmore around 5times longer and 223 about 7-8 times longer.
As far as the powder I have used both... Getting way better Accuracy with Hodgdon... That could be different with other rifles/loads. Thanks for the comment!! Happy Shooting
he, i got a question for you: how much space would you want to have between the bullet and the rifling? so how big of a jump would you want the bullet to make on a .50 cal?
if your cases really stretch a lot; you should check the headspacing on your gun.
thanks!
Jeff
Hi Jeff so when I load I do trim each time I reload but I’m real big on annealing the case so it helps keep that to a minimum as far as runout I worked with Barnes Bullets to create a load and a tech over there recommended 30 to 50 thousand’ths of an inch I think this really depends on what bullet and what your rifle likes I would recommend just experimenting a lot. I found in mine I was either loading the banded solid from Barnes or the triple shock, the triple shock is more of a hunting style bullet but my 50 absolutely loves them. A lot of times I’m using pull down military surplus bullets but if I put together more of an accuracy load, I like that triple shock. Anyway hope this helps thanks for the comment .
Im reading up on reloading. Reading ABC of reloading now. They state: if you are running hot loads, the cases will stretch. Be sure to trim the case lenght wise an to strim the neck thickness so you bullet will still feed into the case. Trimming neckthickness is not alwayse necessary, but be sure to check this to.
What i meaned to ask is: how deep are you seating your bullets? Do you allow the bullets to tuch the rifling? Or do you seat them so they are almost tuching the rifling. The question: how much of a gap (or no gap at all) are you leaving between the bullet and the bullet tuching the rifling?
Nice to know you are leaving a longer neck on your casings, but this can lead to higher chamber pressures wich can lead to a damaged gun. Just saying..
Thanks!
Annealing is the way to go, it really keeps brass from tearing apart.
I think you misunderstood me I do trim the neck to the spec OAL and then as far as runout, distance the bullet travels till it hits the rifling’s is between .030-.050 There’s a video that I did this I think it was entitled smoke testing but it’s how I find and measure that distance to my rifelings, And then I experiment doing different run out, different powders, and different bullets all of that kind of stuff.
Regular Guy cool! yeah its a dream of me to shoot a .50 cal gun. a bill holmes .50 one day, that would be the ticket to heaven. there is a video on youtube of this guy bill holmes building one. schematics i found on scribd.com. if you have the skills and tools its cheap to build. anyway, ill look into your videos. :D
thanks
Have you Done BMG on a Rockchucker supreme?
I have a Barret m82 a1
Shouldn’t you tumble then size
I will do some cleaning/tumble prior to sizing, just depending on the brass, and where it came from. I do the majority of all my cleaning after the sizing so I don't have greasy cases (you use a lot of lube on the 50).
Regular Guy Ohhhh I see! That’s always a pain to wipe them off
whats it cost to get into .50 cal shooting. is there an affordab rifle on the market and whats the cost of relaoding
Sorry just saw your comment... There are so many rifles on the market now... I would say just do some online shopping then order from your local dealer, look for a precision build, heavier the better. Stay away ar15 conversions. I have an Armilite AR 50 weighs 33 pounds without scope/bipod. Being that heavy makes the recoil manageable and great from a bench.
Can you recommend a 50 rifle, with emphasis on the rifle's cost? I hear there is one out there for only ~$1600. Any good?
You know I’m not really sure I know there are a lot of different brands, mine is an ArmaLite. I think it was in the neighborhood of 2500 for the rifle only back when I got it. The only thing that I would recommend is to do your homework make sure you get one that’s designed and built to be a 50. There are a few out there that were designed as kind of like an AR upper so you don’t have a heavy duty chassis under it. The ArmaLite without optics or a bipod weighs in at about 33 pounds, Which is incredibly important when you start to think about the recoil. If you go with a lightweight firearm it’s going to be incredibly hard to manage that recoil. I would love feedback of what you end up getting! Happy shootin!!
M82A1
There is a single shot 50. RN-50 is the name if I remember correctly. I do know it is made in Florida.
So Im guessing my rockchucker isnt big enough to reload a 50?
No it requires oversized dies you will need a press specifically for the 50
They look fun to shoot from all the youtube vid's iv'e seen, will have to check the regs here and see if I can get one or not. The Govtards here ban rifles on looks alone, so if i say 50BMG to them they will probably shit bricks. oh well you never know your luck...
What 50 do you have?
Hi Austin... I have an Armalite AR50
what do you hunt with 50 bmg?
Johan Schröder your typical prey will be little IFV’s ... usually a little Hilux or shitty Datsun .... one shot right to the heart and it’ll stop in it’s tracks ... ask me how I know
???????
@ Johan Schröder. What does hunting have to do with anything? Can't he simply enjoy shooting his rifle? Just asking.
"what do you hunt with a 50 BMG" easy. Terrorists, communists, insurgents. You know, bad guys !
@@jameshollen9723 Don't forget buildings
How munch money do u save
It depends on where your buying your ammo/or components... at a minimum for the 50 cal stuff I'm at about 50% savings and even more if I load a precision round.
thanks