Lightburn tutorial : Engrave laser tiles faster - Darkly Labs Method
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.พ. 2025
- Lightburn tutorial: How to Engrave laser tiles faster - Darkly Labs Method
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Norton method Tutorial: • Lightburn tutorial : C...
In this tutorial, Gil shares a new way to engrave laser tiles quickly. This method is called the "Darkly Labs Method". In the video, he will explain how you can use this method and your Lightburn software to engrave the laser tiles in less than 10 minutes! The Darkly Labs Method is a great way to speed up your laser tile engraving while still producing professional quality work! This video will teach you the Darkly Labs Method for engraving with Lightburn.
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Thanks to Darkly Labs for help developing this method. You can find out more as well as lightburn project files here: darklylabs.com...
Perfect results with Lightburn's Print and Cut tools: • Lightburn tutorial: Ge...
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I'm impressed with how easily I Iearned new ways to use my laser! Thanks Gil! I'll definitely join the facebook group!
Thank you Josh! Look forward to seeing what you create in the Facebook group!
Saw your computer wallpaper, looked up why... Hah. A gut voch then. Ty for the helpful videos!
Always happy to help!
What are you going to make and engrave on your laser?
Another great video Gill, Thank you.
This was the first method I learned a couple years ago, before Nicki Norton came along. I engraved a tile and sprayed it with 3 coats of Polycrylic. I used it as my daily drink coaster for a year and by the end the image was utterly destroyed, you could barely recognize it anymore.
love that results, but i wonder if this pieces are for sale or it is a hobby to make them, thanks in advance
Love ya work Gil. The laser engraved tiles were an excellent idea. Wish I had thought of it first 😂. Cheers Aaron
Always a pleasure to help give everyone a new possibility to make something amazing. Hope your well!
Hi when you do one of your tutorials,could you PLEASE start with your type of laser and wattage ?
I have a thunderbolt what settings would you use to engrave yeti mugs?
Very Helpful!!
Thank you. Glad to share!
Thank you
You're welcome Deborah. :) Love to see the tiles you create. You can share them at our Facebook group. The link to the group is in the video description :)
Everyone tells me to use white paint but I see you used black. Does that make a difference?
This is a different process using black paint to be selectively removed to make an image. Your thinking about the Nicky Norton method using white paint. You can find a walkthrough with that method here:
th-cam.com/video/OLQLIH2kkG0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=dJ6lIK1KjG6Qe-Nm
I find this method to be faster than the Nicky Norton method, but to each there own. Let us know what you plan on making using these methods!
great video's, thanks!
so what's the difference between the two methods? white and black paint and speed?
not working no matter what i do! i have copied settings exactly and cant get the image to burn out..after im done, the paint can just be wiped off back to a white tile..not sure what im doing wrong. any advise?
Hi Gil, how did you use this in your.class?
At the end of last year, we created artwork symbolising the last two years dealing with COVID-19, and what affected the students. Then created tiles based on the laser artwork that were placed in the hallways of the school as a remembrance of all that the school had gone through.
I have been doing glass and mirror etching for the most part. Using black grill paint for the mineral content and heat transfer, and actually ablating the glass for a nice crystalline appearance that diffract the ambient light and also enhance the back-lighting if I use it. If it's a mirror, it is negative image and reversed. I leave the paint on. Plain glass is reversed if the back side is etched, and the paint is cleaned off but left as a positive image.
My laser is 5 Watt output power, and I am wondering what speed difference it might be to use both of these methods.
Hi Gil, I have tried your darkly tile method and followed your instructions exactly. My problem is I'm getting horizontal lines across my tile. I'd like to send you a photo but I'm not sure how to do that. Any suggestions? Your videos are GREAT.
Join the facebook group - Laser Livestream and post it there 👍
did u solve your problem? I think it might be that your dpi setting is too high
Gil, any way to get hands on the same photo? I would like to try and compare results directly.
Join us at the Facebook group and I can get you a copy of the image. :) facebook.com/groups/laserlivestream/
@@LaserLivestream Beat you to it. Already there! 😀
I use latex paint for tiles and glass. Screw spray paint. Wash off with water in no time 😌
Hi Gils thank you for your TH-cam demo. I have been trying out over the long weekend doing Tile engraving on Norton and Darkly Labs Method. Both work OK but engraving result is not very sharp. Could this be due to my Neje Master 2S Diode engraver which is 30watts with 7.5 Diode power and may not be strong enough. I've followed all your TH-cam instructions and settings accept the speed I use is 1200 and 1000 mm/min, and 100% Power with 1 Pass Count. I will try again over the weekend by reducing the Speed to 800 or 900 mm/min. Any suggestions will be welcome. Thank you
My biggest obstacle is how to perfectly line up the tile with where lightburn and the laser will actually burn. How do you perfectly align the tile
Cheers
Rob
Check out this tutorial as an option for lining up one or more tiles! th-cam.com/video/erjb2F8ux7E/w-d-xo.html
THE very best addition to any laser is to add a crosshair laser - pointer.... Some lasers come with a crosshair laser, BUT, they are so damn bright, they obliterate any alignment point you are aiming for and are not adjustable as far as I know. See the **"Steve Makes Everything"** YT video and build your own. I **copied** his design and powered the crosshair laser with a USB power cord - 5volts - and before connecting power to the laser crosshair, wire in a 500 ohm pot in series with the positive wire. For this very low power crosshair laser, the nominal .25 watt rating of the pot will handle the typical .1 watt of the laser crosshair. ALSO, wire in a mini 2 conductor connector by the mounted pointer so it can easily be disconnected when removing the main laser head for any reason. After mounting the crosshair - I used alien tape - works great - perform the laser offset calibration in Lightburn and you will be good-to-go.... With the pot, you can dial in the PERFECT brightness and actually see the alignment point you are aiming for, from just barely visible to full brightness , (which you will not use).. My Longer B1 30 is now able to start any job within a nat's a$$ and with the crosshair enabled, you will be thrilled and amazed as you can now actually see where the burn is going to happen when framing the job....
Do you have anything on lasering tile with a co2 laser
Hi Larry, I have a tutorial using a CO2 laser coming up in the future, but you can get similar results by using the same method and just adjusting your engraving settings according to the power of your laser. This tutorial show you how to work out the best settings: th-cam.com/video/bQTFEv7uGn0/w-d-xo.html
Amazing vids I just got a laser and your vids are very helpful. I am confused why in the difference between Norton and darkly methods. My understanding is the Norton method the laser reacts with the TIO2 and actually engraves black into the tile. Where I am confused is why this reaction doesn’t happen with black paint? Does the black absorb the laser more than the white and negates the reaction with the TIO2 in the paint? Why doesn’t the laser engrave but simply only removes the black paint? Vs with white it actually engraves the tile?
The Darkly Method removes the layer is paint. In my experience this allows the process to go faster than the Norton Method but does not leave a permanent result.
My best guess is the black pigment doesn't have enough TI02 to make the reaction.
What have you been using the tile methods to make?
@@LaserLivestream thanks for the reply! I’m going to try the black paint method this wk. my first attempt!! Lol
Ditch the grayscale and go with stucki or Jarvis and set min/ max power the same let the machine follow the dither pattern and you could run 318 dpi with the diode laser
Awesome tip. I'll try your suggestions out and get back with an update. Thank you
I've been trying to do a decent pet tribute photo on white tile, using Imag-R, and the only method so far even close to being acceptable is the Greyscale White Tile setting.
Just about to order tile and I see they have glazed and unglazed. Which one are you using?
I have always used glazed tiles. I dint think I can get ones here that are unglazed. Lwt me know how you go?
@@LaserLivestream That makes sense, I would think unglazed would absorb the laser more? Just wanted to be sure, they have both on Amazon. Thanks.
Will this method work with the Thunder 24 laser?
Yes, it does. You will have to change the power and speed settings, but you can achieve the same result with a CO2 laser!
cant you just resize the image without using the square
why not just size image to 100x100 and skip adding tool layer? Am I missing something?
what kind of laser are you using with these methods?
My personal laser I use in the tutorials is a Emblaser 2 diode laser from Darkly Labs. They are great in an office or classroom enviroment. Check them out! :)