Did this today on a Duramax. I customized my pitman arm puller to fit between front sub frame and steering box shaft. Did not jack up or take wheels off. Idler arm and bracket was easy and breaking pitman free from center link was easy. Pitman steering shaft was a nightmare until I customized my puller. My front end rattles are gone and the steering is tight. Used 15” HF Crescent wrench to undo nut and finished it with a 1 5/16 NAPA impact socket with a HF swivel head ratchet. Saved $1,700 quote for about $220 parts and a few tools. Used 1/2 breaker bar and socket to tighten new pitman arm nut to 184 ft lbs. new riding truck!!!
My pitman broke backing into a parking spot yesterday, so I watched your video and fixed it all today, anyone approaching this be sure to verify if your pitman has a 3 or 4 slot arm. Thanks for the content, it was nice to go in knowing what to do and look for. Very informative and good visuals.
For those wondering just how to count slots ... you can tell the difference in 3 or 4 by pushing up the sleeve on the shaft of the steering box, then you can see the grooves and slots
I never use a puller on Pitman arms anymore. Use a cutting disc and cut through Pitman arm. Use a tapered chisel and spread it. Thing falls right off. Just a little fyi for anyone having issues.
I appreciate the video. I have watched a bunch and this one was really good. I needed to replace the steering gear box, pitman arm, idler arm, and idler bracket. Since I was replacing all those items I left the pitman arm on the steering gear and idler arm on the idler arm bracket when I removed them. After I got the steering box and pitman arm out, I had to remove the pitman arm only so I could get the dust seal off the put on the new one as it did not come with one. I had a horrible time trying to remove the pitman arm with a puller and impact wrench and I even bent the puller without ever getting the arm off. When I got another puller, a mechanic told me to just slightly tighten the puller, knock the arm gently with a hammer, and keep slowly tightening the puller and hitting with a hammer. Doing it this way made it really easy and the arm came off fine.
Thank you. I have changed the Idler at the steering. Now I'm changing the Idler arm and bracket. You cleared up questions I was having before I started that side of the steering.
Thanks for the vid. This is one of those jobs that even "suspension techs" suck at. Especially when it comes to torquing stuff down without ruining the gear box.
Joe Ybanez Thabk you. I’m glad you enjoyed the video. Sometimes it’s just better to take your time and do it yourself vs a shop knocking it out quick and doing it less thoroughly
Great video. Love the clear camera work and commentary. I'm about to do this job on my 1500hd. Although I waited to late and my pitman stud broke! Luckily it happened in my driveway and not doing 50mph down the road🤯
If you do the idler arm and also the idler arm bracket, take them off together to save the hassle. I did them all separate in the video because I decided in the end to do everything.
Hands down one of the best walk through I have found. Great info on the steering box and how to get that nut/arm broke loose. Tackling this tomorrow! Thanks my man!
Always remember to put grease in those new parts or you'll be back under there again before you can say - What the heck ! , man ! I just changed those out not too long ago , parts must be defective . Other than that , good video Danny . I'm getting ready to do a complete front end job minus the steering box and just like you , I am using all Moog parts other than the calipers , rotors and pads . Upper and Lower control arms w/ball joints , hub assemblies , front brake calipers , rotors and pads ( all 3 Acdelco ) Pittman Arm and Assembly , Sway Bar links and Sway Bar Bushings and last but not least Inner and outer Tie rod ends . Have a awesome weekend .
Excellent video bud!! Very thorough! I have to do that job tmrw and with your video it'll make it that much easier. Thanks for taking the time to film it, im sure the job took you much longer just to film it for us. Thanks again bud!
Germ City Studios Thabk you for your comment. Yeah, it took longer, so hopefully it can save you some time. If you go to remove the idler arm you can take off the idler arm bracket and remove both of those at the same time to save some time. Good luck on the repair!
If you’re changing the idler arm bracket, along with the idler arm. You don’t need to separate them. You can remove the two bolts and remove them both together.
I just got done replacing my idler and Pittman arm. It took me twelve hours. It took me three hours to take off the idler arm from the sway bar. Your video have me the insight I needed. Thank you.
Absolutely. That pittman arm was so difficult to take off that I broke my pittman arm puller, but it was made of composite metal. I had to rent one from Autozone, which was adjustable. I didn't even use the Pittman arm fork, although I did buy one from Amazon.com
Shane Marks I’ve had tools like the pinion depth that was pretty much never used lol. I guess better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it
Pete Norton I’m glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching. Here is more on this truck if you’re ever interested th-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi42E1Ceb5_pBK-e7phLJxBN.html
Hey Danny thanks for the video. I miss my Terminator but still love your content! Just started working at a shop and hope to start doing jobs like this. Very informative!
Most excellent video all around Danny. Great job appreciate the work and effort. My have to raise my vehicle this weekend and see if there's any slack in those connections. I may need to do this job as well. 2003 suburban with 243,000 miles. Thanks again appreciate it
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Yes, I have a '93 GMC with a worn out front end, so I have watched all of your videos on that topic too. Great job! Word of advice? Haha! I know grease washes off, and in all of my 52 years I have never really minded getting my hands dirty, but you should try wearing disposable rubber gloves. They don't cost that much at Wal-Mart or Harbor Freight and they may keep you, your tools, and other equipment (camera) clean. That said, keep up the good work! And thanks again!
Exactly what I was thinking after he put them back on together with no sway bar interference. Since he replaced both, didn't need to separate them at all. Danny, I'm super glad I found your video because I'm doing all 3 pieces as well and you had tips that others didn't and you made it easier. Others pulling the whole steering box off and now I know it's not necessary to do that.
Michael East Correct. I did not initially purchase an idler arm bracket so there was no need, but decided to show the video this way for those who may not buy the idler arm bracket. It may be easier to remove them both together either way. Whichever you prefer
Replacing mine on my own for the 1st time.... my friend, his son and I replaced them 3 times... within 2 years... first 2 were cheap eBay sets. Then the 3 one is Moog, bumper the island as I pulled out of the parking lot 🤦🏻♂️ warranty exchanging the current set 😆
I laughed when he said "finally" as his pitman came off, I shattered the cast aluminum on my puller after hours of trying and with it's mileage just decided on a new steering box.
My man i just watched like 4 videos all got me very lost by terrible camera link and jumping around. By far one of the best walk through videos I've ever watched. Thanks for taking your time and explaining in such detail. went from not hardly understanding and wanting to say screw it and drop it off to being fully confident in being able to follow these steps to do it myself. I do have to ask how did the truck feel after doing this? I have had a lot of wiggle in my steering and trying to eliminate that. Thanks!
Thanks! I didn’t see many videos on it either. The truck honestly felt pretty similar (a shop failed me on inspection and I was forced to fix it. I don’t think it was necessarily dangerous, but it did help). I also installed inner and outer tie rods. The overall steering is tighter now, but I feel the worn steering box and teeth within will always leave the steering a bit sloppy. I’ll give you the link to the other videos I made that also includes shocks, wheel bearings, and tie rods. Good to fix those things before you pay for an alignment if you want.
My original Pitman arm sat pretty close to the steering box housing. New one had a sizeable gap between box and arm which I didnt like. Wasted a bunch of time to find out its normal and most people have the same issue with replacements.
Great set of videos ! All, or almost all of the videos of repairs also apply to Hummer H2. Almost exactly the same for my H2. Keep the videos coming! Subscribed !
Play in my steering is driving me insane in my 04 1500... I know for a fact most of it is in my gear box, but Im just going to do the box, the pitman and idler arms and idler bracket all at once and forget about it. Gonna cost 3-400 to do it myself but it'll be worth not wandering all over the lane.
Weird when I took mine off 96 c1500 I didn't have room to stick my pitman puller on I guess it was on all the way up and putting it back on I thought I needed to go all the way up im gonna leave some room taken some force to go up thanks for the vid
On 17:05 minutes your idler arm played a little bit is it suppose to do that?? I did all that on my truck but i tighten it more than you and the stearing wheel is hard an turns. Do you think its because i tightened it too much??
I would like a little coverage on why you are doing this. Is there any particular problem you are trying to solve? How long have you had that truck and how many miles does it have on it to give an idea about when this should be done.
It had 195,000 miles and no real problems. I was failed on inspection and forced to change it. When asked why, the tech grinned and said “I have the same truck, have fun.” I said there was nothing wrong and he said it had a lot of miles. I went for a second opinion and was told since it was failed it had to be replaced.
Glad you caught the 140 lbs. torque for the wheels. Another note, why on earth does Moog even provide the straight grease zerks? Have you tried lubing these things when changing your oil? I've even tried the side approach adapter which doesn't work. I changed all three zerks (2 idler, 1 pitman) to 90 degree zerks and greasing those buggers is a breeze now.
Seriously? The idler arm is supposed to have some play? Figured that. I tightened that idler arm down tight. After I did that the idler arm didn't even move on the bracket. So I just ended putting on there looser so it would move side to side with the center link. Looks like you did the same thing. So I'm just going to assume I did it right. Just wanted to see somebody do it.
? Im not sure what's wrong with my right tire , but it seems to be rubbing on the lower control arm and I have no clue what's the problem , when I drive it it scrapping sound and when I checked it out I see that there's scrapes on the lower arm control, what could be the problem for doing so
I am having a difficult time with removing the pitman arm from the gear box. I am unable to loosen the three bolts that hold the gear box. i have sprayed these bolts with pb blaster and letting it sit over night. Any suggestions would be appreciated on how to break these 3 bolts free. i have a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar (25" length) but can't seem to get a good angle. I am thinking of getting a long 1/2 inch extension to attach to the breaker bar.
DId you go back to finish off that bolt to the idler arm to the bracket. You had play in it.Not sure you did that so you can line it back with the center link.
I’m glad you found the video useful. Here are more videos on this truck if you’d like to see them th-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi42E1Ceb5_pBK-e7phLJxBN.html
Going to use your video this weekend..How long did it take you to do the job? How long would it take a guy that wasn't setting up camera and doing commentary on the video?
As long as you don’t get hung up on something, it should be an hour or two since you can follow the video. This took awhile figuring it all out and which way to do things
Anybody know if a K2500, 8600 GVW pitman can be replaced using this method (loosening sway bar, loosening steering box, ....)? I have seen videos where they pull the steering gear out with pitman arm attached which I do not want to do.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I had recently changed mine with AC Delco and it came with instructions, but the pictures were not legible. So, went to the internet and found this. fme-cat.com/LiveDocs/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_27027.pdf Hope it helps.
I would give yourself an entire day in case some of the parts are stubborn (like removing the pitman/idler arm with the pickle fork). you might save some time with the techniques I show like removing te driver side tire for better access and getting a good, heavy hammer to knock it loose, and removing both the idler arm bracket as one unit, but mine gave me some trouble and it was my first time. Let me know how it goes! I also have a tie rod video th-cam.com/video/7Ztj1O4eyPI/w-d-xo.html
How many miles on ya rig before you started to notice the failure... mine is @ just over 120k and I'm gonna be under there soon to do shocks and inner/outer tie rod replacement.
James Koenig I have 200k miles on it and honestly would not have cared, but it was failed on safety inspection by some hot shot who replaced his once, so he failed me on it. I also have videos on tie rods and shocks if you’re interested
I’m going to be buying all the parts and a 3” level kit for my 2500hd and take it to the shop where I only get charged $35 an hour for them to put it in.
Conrado Avila Yeah, I wasn’t going to do the idler arm bracket in the beginning, but bought it later after I had removed the idler arm. I believe I briefly mentioned to drop them together later in the video
It is typically from loose and sloppy steering. I honestly felt it was fine but it was failed on inspection by some punk kid who smirked at me and said he just replaced his and it was a pain to do so now it was my turn.
Oh Jay I would for sure look at the components to see if any are loose, and then also look into inner and outer tie rods. Lift the front wheels off the ground and shake the front wheels by hand to see if they move back and forth th-cam.com/video/7Ztj1O4eyPI/w-d-xo.html
Sir Sweetness I have both standard and metric and I used what was the tightest fit. You might be able to use metric, but be cautious not to strip any bolts if it’s loose
NICE VIDEO...I SEE A FEW COMMENTS,AND ALSO YOU KEPT SAYING..WHEN YOU WERE REMOVING THE IDLER ARE FROM the sway bar...the idler arm connects at the frame,and thru the drag link......not the sway bar.....sorry for being so anal about the correct names of the parts...lol,lol….
Did this today on a Duramax. I customized my pitman arm puller to fit between front sub frame and steering box shaft. Did not jack up or take wheels off. Idler arm and bracket was easy and breaking pitman free from center link was easy. Pitman steering shaft was a nightmare until I customized my puller. My front end rattles are gone and the steering is tight. Used 15” HF Crescent wrench to undo nut and finished it with a 1 5/16 NAPA impact socket with a HF swivel head ratchet. Saved $1,700 quote for about $220 parts and a few tools. Used 1/2 breaker bar and socket to tighten new pitman arm nut to 184 ft lbs. new riding truck!!!
How did you modify your puller?
Make a video on this!
Just wanted to know how you modified your pulled?
Thanks in advance and have a great day!!!
My pitman broke backing into a parking spot yesterday, so I watched your video and fixed it all today, anyone approaching this be sure to verify if your pitman has a 3 or 4 slot arm. Thanks for the content, it was nice to go in knowing what to do and look for. Very informative and good visuals.
For those wondering just how to count slots ... you can tell the difference in 3 or 4 by pushing up the sleeve on the shaft of the steering box, then you can see the grooves and slots
I never use a puller on Pitman arms anymore. Use a cutting disc and cut through Pitman arm. Use a tapered chisel and spread it. Thing falls right off. Just a little fyi for anyone having issues.
grinder with metal disc work the same also mine snapped and bolt stuck in steering rod any tips
Outstanding!
I appreciate the video. I have watched a bunch and this one was really good. I needed to replace the steering gear box, pitman arm, idler arm, and idler bracket. Since I was replacing all those items I left the pitman arm on the steering gear and idler arm on the idler arm bracket when I removed them. After I got the steering box and pitman arm out, I had to remove the pitman arm only so I could get the dust seal off the put on the new one as it did not come with one. I had a horrible time trying to remove the pitman arm with a puller and impact wrench and I even bent the puller without ever getting the arm off. When I got another puller, a mechanic told me to just slightly tighten the puller, knock the arm gently with a hammer, and keep slowly tightening the puller and hitting with a hammer. Doing it this way made it really easy and the arm came off fine.
As a note, when using a Pitman arm puller, leave the steering gear nut on just far enough to protect the steering gear output shaft threads.
Thank you Sir !!! This video was one of the most helpful out there. I got the job done and saved me $300 I owe you a beer !!!
Thank you. I have changed the Idler at the steering. Now I'm changing the Idler arm and bracket. You cleared up questions I was having before I started that side of the steering.
Thanks for the vid. This is one of those jobs that even "suspension techs" suck at. Especially when it comes to torquing stuff down without ruining the gear box.
Joe Ybanez Thabk you. I’m glad you enjoyed the video. Sometimes it’s just better to take your time and do it yourself vs a shop knocking it out quick and doing it less thoroughly
What a dum;; ass
Great video. Love the clear camera work and commentary. I'm about to do this job on my 1500hd. Although I waited to late and my pitman stud broke! Luckily it happened in my driveway and not doing 50mph down the road🤯
If you do the idler arm and also the idler arm bracket, take them off together to save the hassle. I did them all separate in the video because I decided in the end to do everything.
Hands down one of the best walk through I have found. Great info on the steering box and how to get that nut/arm broke loose. Tackling this tomorrow! Thanks my man!
Thanks man. Be sure to see my other videos on this truck here if you’d like: th-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi42E1Ceb5_pBK-e7phLJxBN.html
Always remember to put grease in those new parts or you'll be back under there again before you can say - What the heck ! , man ! I just changed those out not too long ago , parts must be defective . Other than that , good video Danny . I'm getting ready to do a complete front end job minus the steering box and just like you , I am using all Moog parts other than the calipers , rotors and pads . Upper and Lower control arms w/ball joints , hub assemblies , front brake calipers , rotors and pads ( all 3 Acdelco ) Pittman Arm and Assembly , Sway Bar links and Sway Bar Bushings and last but not least Inner and outer Tie rod ends . Have a awesome weekend .
Jason D. don't forget to wack it hard when u under the car 👏😀
Excellent video bud!! Very thorough! I have to do that job tmrw and with your video it'll make it that much easier. Thanks for taking the time to film it, im sure the job took you much longer just to film it for us. Thanks again bud!
Germ City Studios Thabk you for your comment. Yeah, it took longer, so hopefully it can save you some time. If you go to remove the idler arm you can take off the idler arm bracket and remove both of those at the same time to save some time. Good luck on the repair!
If you’re changing the idler arm bracket, along with the idler arm. You don’t need to separate them. You can remove the two bolts and remove them both together.
Silas Richardson III Yes, that’s later explained. I was not doing the idler arm bracket initially, then changed my mind and bought the part
I just got done replacing my idler and Pittman arm. It took me twelve hours. It took me three hours to take off the idler arm from the sway bar. Your video have me the insight I needed. Thank you.
Shane Marks Great job getting it done! It’s always easier the next time, so you can be a good help to some friends someday!
Absolutely. That pittman arm was so difficult to take off that I broke my pittman arm puller, but it was made of composite metal. I had to rent one from Autozone, which was adjustable. I didn't even use the Pittman arm fork, although I did buy one from Amazon.com
Shane Marks I’ve had tools like the pinion depth that was pretty much never used lol. I guess better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it
That's the attitude.
Wow 12 what
Great video. Thanks for stating the socket and wrench sizes. That matters when you have a bad back.
Pete Norton I’m glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching. Here is more on this truck if you’re ever interested th-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi42E1Ceb5_pBK-e7phLJxBN.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage
You would be a great teacher! Thanks again.
Thanks! It would be awesome to be an auto shop teacher. At least I can teach over youtube in a way. Thanks again
Thanks for the great video. I need to replace these on my 2000. This was a great tutorial on how to do it. Thanks again
Thank you I'm glad you enjoyed it. Feel free to see the other videos I've done on this truck here: th-cam.com/video/VXtoBSe4k4k/w-d-xo.html
Hey Danny thanks for the video. I miss my Terminator but still love your content! Just started working at a shop and hope to start doing jobs like this. Very informative!
What’s the difference between the idler and pitman arm? Does it have to do with the pitman arm linking up to the steering?
Yes, the pitman is directly for steering
Most excellent video all around Danny. Great job appreciate the work and effort. My have to raise my vehicle this weekend and see if there's any slack in those connections. I may need to do this job as well. 2003 suburban with 243,000 miles. Thanks again appreciate it
Great video Danny very informative I just finished doing mine, thanks for you help also awesome camera work and audio as well
Your video was exactly what I was looking for. Nice job, young man. Well done. Thank you for doing it.
Mangler Malachi Thank you. Here are more videos I have on this truck th-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi42E1Ceb5_pBK-e7phLJxBN.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Yes, I have a '93 GMC with a worn out front end, so I have watched all of your videos on that topic too. Great job!
Word of advice? Haha! I know grease washes off, and in all of my 52 years I have never really minded getting my hands dirty, but you should try wearing disposable rubber gloves. They don't cost that much at Wal-Mart or Harbor Freight and they may keep you, your tools, and other equipment (camera) clean.
That said, keep up the good work! And thanks again!
Mangler Malachi Thank you. Good advice.
After this great video I’m pretty confident I can do it now. Thank you
That’s the honest truth, make sure your truck fits in the garage because I know I’m always going to the store 😂
Great video thanks for all your help and support and the detailed information you provided
Excellent vodeo. Very well done and thorough. Best on YT
Very well explained, thanks for including the sizes.
When doing the idler arm just take the idler arm and bracket off together. You want have to touch the sway bar
Exactly what I was thinking after he put them back on together with no sway bar interference. Since he replaced both, didn't need to separate them at all.
Danny, I'm super glad I found your video because I'm doing all 3 pieces as well and you had tips that others didn't and you made it easier. Others pulling the whole steering box off and now I know it's not necessary to do that.
Yea, this is a video that left me 100% confident I can do the project.
Michael East , i was thinking the same thing lol
Do you necessary have to lift the truck
Michael East Correct. I did not initially purchase an idler arm bracket so there was no need, but decided to show the video this way for those who may not buy the idler arm bracket. It may be easier to remove them both together either way. Whichever you prefer
Replacing mine on my own for the 1st time.... my friend, his son and I replaced them 3 times... within 2 years... first 2 were cheap eBay sets. Then the 3 one is Moog, bumper the island as I pulled out of the parking lot 🤦🏻♂️ warranty exchanging the current set 😆
Thanks for the video bud. Just ordered my parts plus lower control arms to get started on this next week. Donation sent!
Jeremy Mohlke Thank you very much. Good luck on the install. Much appreciated 🙌🏼
That garage floor is nicely done
Thanks! I’m really enjoying it. I have a few install and review views if you’re interested th-cam.com/video/LSrIsYuAmE8/w-d-xo.html
Review th-cam.com/video/AaIQlxfj6Y8/w-d-xo.html
Best video on TH-cam for this!! Awesome job buddy!!
I laughed when he said "finally" as his pitman came off, I shattered the cast aluminum on my puller after hours of trying and with it's mileage just decided on a new steering box.
You should have just cut it off
@@jeremy_238 common sense is now called rare sense
My man i just watched like 4 videos all got me very lost by terrible camera link and jumping around. By far one of the best walk through videos I've ever watched. Thanks for taking your time and explaining in such detail. went from not hardly understanding and wanting to say screw it and drop it off to being fully confident in being able to follow these steps to do it myself. I do have to ask how did the truck feel after doing this? I have had a lot of wiggle in my steering and trying to eliminate that. Thanks!
Thanks! I didn’t see many videos on it either. The truck honestly felt pretty similar (a shop failed me on inspection and I was forced to fix it. I don’t think it was necessarily dangerous, but it did help). I also installed inner and outer tie rods. The overall steering is tighter now, but I feel the worn steering box and teeth within will always leave the steering a bit sloppy. I’ll give you the link to the other videos I made that also includes shocks, wheel bearings, and tie rods. Good to fix those things before you pay for an alignment if you want.
Robert Helgeson th-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi42E1Ceb5_pBK-e7phLJxBN.html
My original Pitman arm sat pretty close to the steering box housing. New one had a sizeable gap between box and arm which I didnt like. Wasted a bunch of time to find out its normal and most people have the same issue with replacements.
Great set of videos ! All, or almost all of the videos of repairs also apply to Hummer H2. Almost exactly the same for my H2. Keep the videos coming! Subscribed !
Henry Ramos Thanks! Welcome to the channel 👍🏼
All GM truck have been metric for well over 20 years. That pitman arm nut is actually 32mm.
GAR 1342 I’ve seen both standard and metric depending on the part and where it was manufactured.
That's why he needed the screw driver to bang his nut out his socket .
Thank you for sharing this great information.
great how to video! I need to do this on mine and feel better about it now! Thanks
Play in my steering is driving me insane in my 04 1500... I know for a fact most of it is in my gear box, but Im just going to do the box, the pitman and idler arms and idler bracket all at once and forget about it. Gonna cost 3-400 to do it myself but it'll be worth not wandering all over the lane.
How do you know it's the gear box? Currently doing this repair and would be real disappointed if it ended up being that
Weird when I took mine off 96 c1500 I didn't have room to stick my pitman puller on I guess it was on all the way up and putting it back on I thought I needed to go all the way up im gonna leave some room taken some force to go up thanks for the vid
On 17:05 minutes your idler arm played a little bit is it suppose to do that?? I did all that on my truck but i tighten it more than you and the stearing wheel is hard an turns. Do you think its because i tightened it too much??
I would like a little coverage on why you are doing this. Is there any particular problem you are trying to solve? How long have you had that truck and how many miles does it have on it to give an idea about when this should be done.
It had 195,000 miles and no real problems. I was failed on inspection and forced to change it. When asked why, the tech grinned and said “I have the same truck, have fun.” I said there was nothing wrong and he said it had a lot of miles. I went for a second opinion and was told since it was failed it had to be replaced.
good stuff! thanks Danny
thanks for watching
Great video thanks for sharing
Best Video to date.Thank you man...
Thank you 🙌🏼
Thank you best video!
Great video, thanks man!
Great, great video, thank you!
I'm glad you enjoyued it! Here is my playlist for this truck as well if you're interested th-cam.com/video/VXtoBSe4k4k/w-d-xo.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage sy
Glad you caught the 140 lbs. torque for the wheels. Another note, why on earth does Moog even provide the straight grease zerks? Have you tried lubing these things when changing your oil? I've even tried the side approach adapter which doesn't work. I changed all three zerks (2 idler, 1 pitman) to 90 degree zerks and greasing those buggers is a breeze now.
Seriously? The idler arm is supposed to have some play? Figured that. I tightened that idler arm down tight. After I did that the idler arm didn't even move on the bracket. So I just ended putting on there looser so it would move side to side with the center link. Looks like you did the same thing. So I'm just going to assume I did it right. Just wanted to see somebody do it.
Is the idler arm bracket assembly only on the 4WD?
? Im not sure what's wrong with my right tire , but it seems to be rubbing on the lower control arm and I have no clue what's the problem , when I drive it it scrapping sound and when I checked it out I see that there's scrapes on the lower arm control, what could be the problem for doing so
Just bought a chevy with 150,000 miles on it. The same parts need replaced. Great content but I'll go with the German method on my lug nuts.
I just bought a 2003 GMC Yukon-XL 4wd 5.3l with 210,420 miles and I have to do everything hahaha
@14:35 a note pops up on the screen saying 13/16 on both sides, but you can clearly see the wrench size you're using is 7/8....🤣
I am having a difficult time with removing the pitman arm from the gear box. I am unable to loosen the three bolts that hold the gear box. i have sprayed these bolts with pb blaster and letting it sit over night. Any suggestions would be appreciated on how to break these 3 bolts free. i have a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar (25" length) but can't seem to get a good angle. I am thinking of getting a long 1/2 inch extension to attach to the breaker bar.
Very good video !
Thank you 🙏🏼
i just took out the idler arm. eiser than dropping the sway bar
Very nice video. Thx man
Thanks for the comment. Glad you enjoyed. Thanks for watching
Great video. Thank you
Michael Latour I’m glad you liked it. See my other videos on this truck here: th-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi42E1Ceb5_pBK-e7phLJxBN.html
Excellent video, made my instillation a breeze !
I’m glad to hear that. Great job on your repair
DId you go back to finish off that bolt to the idler arm to the bracket. You had play in it.Not sure you did that so you can line it back with the center link.
Yeah, there was some back and forth on getting things to line up, so the video probably didn’t show it
How do you stop the new pin's from spinning to tighten
Thanks 😊 very informative 👌
I’m glad you found the video useful. Here are more videos on this truck if you’d like to see them th-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi42E1Ceb5_pBK-e7phLJxBN.html
Great video..Thanks!!
Going to use your video this weekend..How long did it take you to do the job? How long would it take a guy that wasn't setting up camera and doing commentary on the video?
As long as you don’t get hung up on something, it should be an hour or two since you can follow the video. This took awhile figuring it all out and which way to do things
Great video I just got my idler arm from Amazon but I noticed there was a lot of Grease on the underside of the Boot and stem is that normal
They are greased, so it should be normal to see some. See if it has a grease fitting like the ones I got.
@dannyjohnsonsgarage yeah the idler arm has the grease fitting in the bag .
Anybody know if a K2500, 8600 GVW pitman can be replaced using this method (loosening sway bar, loosening steering box, ....)? I have seen videos where they pull the steering gear out with pitman arm attached which I do not want to do.
Did you not use the grease hose for the idler arm bracket? Nice video, good work it was a big help. Thanks.
I still have it. I believe it's only supposed to be used when adding grease. I didn't leave it attached.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I had recently changed mine with AC Delco and it came with instructions, but the pictures were not legible. So, went to the internet and found this. fme-cat.com/LiveDocs/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_27027.pdf Hope it helps.
@@kevinr5187 I just searched the internet high and low for how this hose gets mounted. Thanks for posting that bulletin!
@@peteklassen5338 YOURE welcome buddy!
How long did this project take you?
Good shit my boi
The 2wheel drive doesn’t have this
Great video man !
Does this mess up your alignment?
Yeah, you will likely need an alignment. For that reason I also did the struts/shocks, tie rods, hubs etc so I only had to pay for the alignment once
that 1 5/16 is almost certainly a metric size
Seems like it may be!
Danny Johnson it is
33.34 mm so I'm thinking 34mm
Also the 13/16... I think you mean 21mm. Great video otherwise
You called it a sway bar a few times but I think the correct term is center link?
Yes, that’s is correct.
I'm going to tackle that job myself fuck it thanks for the video now I know what Exactly to do :D
You got this! Good luck
You got to move out the hood if you can't leave the garage door open unattended for more than just a couple of minutes
Joseph Atnip no, just make it fit in the garage
Thanks!
I changed all power steering fluid and all squeaking stoped. Bad oil
How long did this whole repair take? Was going to do this and my tie rod ends... Just wondering how much time I should set aside...
I would give yourself an entire day in case some of the parts are stubborn (like removing the pitman/idler arm with the pickle fork). you might save some time with the techniques I show like removing te driver side tire for better access and getting a good, heavy hammer to knock it loose, and removing both the idler arm bracket as one unit, but mine gave me some trouble and it was my first time. Let me know how it goes! I also have a tie rod video th-cam.com/video/7Ztj1O4eyPI/w-d-xo.html
Took me about 3 hours with a steering gear change. All drpends on how good you are with a wrench.
How many miles on ya rig before you started to notice the failure... mine is @ just over 120k and I'm gonna be under there soon to do shocks and inner/outer tie rod replacement.
James Koenig I have 200k miles on it and honestly would not have cared, but it was failed on safety inspection by some hot shot who replaced his once, so he failed me on it. I also have videos on tie rods and shocks if you’re interested
James Koenig Front shocks th-cam.com/video/o466KbeQdFU/w-d-xo.html
James Koenig Rear th-cam.com/video/hvbWfm8vXEA/w-d-xo.html
James Koenig Inner and outer tie rods th-cam.com/video/7Ztj1O4eyPI/w-d-xo.html
I’m going to be buying all the parts and a 3” level kit for my 2500hd and take it to the shop where I only get charged $35 an hour for them to put it in.
great vid
dirtrider292 thank you. Hopefully this can help people who've never done it before.
Yup , too common on those trucks.
Infamous 281 I'm so glad it's all done and aligned. It's so nice now and the new shocks make a huge difference too. No more bouncing
What was the reasons you decided to do these repairs?
The dude at grease monkey failed it for inspection just because it had high miles. I was forced to replace it all
No need to touch anything with the sway bar. Just remove the idler bracket and it will remove with the idler arm together. Good tips tho.
Conrado Avila Yeah, I wasn’t going to do the idler arm bracket in the beginning, but bought it later after I had removed the idler arm. I believe I briefly mentioned to drop them together later in the video
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage ok must have missed that part.
Do you have a ball joint and A-arm video?
Joe Haynes Only on my infiniti
Hi great stuff what size is the puller
Thaer Jasim The part number was Lisle 41900. There is also an amazon link in the video description
What year is the truck you worked on? And which year models does it apply too?
Pretty sure that's a 1500. My 05 2500HD pitman arm has a 3 Grove spline.
Nice !! Appreciated !!
Louis Brule Thanks for watching
Is there grease or oil that you're supposed to check in the steering box?
Good question. I’m not sure about that
Power steering fluid
Which bilstein shocks are those?...GEAUX LSU!!!
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NI7IFCC/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=2004047-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00NI7IFCC&linkId=19516e0c068d406a2034a2ae86718d31
Why did you replace those? What issues were you having?
It is typically from loose and sloppy steering. I honestly felt it was fine but it was failed on inspection by some punk kid who smirked at me and said he just replaced his and it was a pain to do so now it was my turn.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage ok.. i have sloppy steering and shaking on freeway
Oh Jay I would for sure look at the components to see if any are loose, and then also look into inner and outer tie rods. Lift the front wheels off the ground and shake the front wheels by hand to see if they move back and forth th-cam.com/video/7Ztj1O4eyPI/w-d-xo.html
is an alignment required after this job is completed?
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Danny - did you get alignment done?
What size harbor Freight Crescent wrench did you use? 24, 18 or 15?
Sir Sweetness 15”
Danny Johnson
Bought my 15” wrench the other day. Can metric wrenches be used or do they have to be 13/16 and 1 5/16
Sir Sweetness I have both standard and metric and I used what was the tightest fit. You might be able to use metric, but be cautious not to strip any bolts if it’s loose
Danny Johnson
Going to HF to buy the SAE sockets. :)
pitman arm or idler arm do not cannect to a "sway bar" lol 17:00
russianoleg Yeah, called it the wrong bar, later corrected that in the video
Did the arms come filled with grease?
Yes, and it also comes with the hose adapter and fitting if you want to add more or check it when installed
NICE VIDEO...I SEE A FEW COMMENTS,AND ALSO YOU KEPT SAYING..WHEN YOU WERE REMOVING THE IDLER ARE FROM the sway bar...the idler arm connects at the frame,and thru the drag link......not the sway bar.....sorry for being so anal about the correct names of the parts...lol,lol….
how much did you pay for your craftmen air ratchet
$20 on black friday. Definitely need an upgrade ha ha
Now its time for some jumps
Yep, see my bilstien shocks install 😉😂
Is this for a 2001 chevy silverado 2500hd duramax?
Aaron Moniz This was performed on a 2000 1500, but should be the same process.
Awesome video. Thank you x1,000!!
bizob211 Do glad you found and enjoyed the video!
bizob211 Feel free to subscribe and see my other videos you may also enjoy th-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi42E1Ceb5_pBK-e7phLJxBN.html
Great vid , thanks.b
That's NOT a "sway bar" It's the Center Link
yeah, I mentioned that later. Everything will be okay