Greetings Again Finatics, Please clarify something for me.....@ 20:56 I saw that same type rubber seal piece (with the split in it) fall off of my tube or rod as well and I had no idea where it'd fallen from....thanks to your video, I now know where it came from but I didn't see you put yours back on top of the pump cover-rod base area during re-assembly, does that mean this piece is irrelevant? Again Thanks for these Amazing, thorough high quality videos...I have not seen much video content that is better or on this level of Awesomeness!😉
Hi there yes I didn’t reinstall it as I was just trying to keep this build cheap as possible and my kit didn’t come with a new one. It’s def not irrelevant tho if you can get one I recommend you installing it on your motor. It’s meant to keep and debris,sand or whatever from getting back into the housing. Just helps prevent the water pump from getting more damage as well as the water pump housing etc. I’ll try and get the part number for you but yes if this is your own motor I recommend you replace it I just didn’t do it cus the motor was low on compression and I just wanted to make a video for some of ya out there on the other stuff.
This is a link w the part number and if you wanna check out any other parts w a diagram. This is a really good website to use. You can recheck w your own serial number but for the most part they are all the same so this should be the one you need hope this helps you
@@TheSilverSurfisher awesome to hear that hope everything works out for ya. Any other qs in the future just lmk. Also just keep in mind you’ll want both of those washers as well one will go below the water pump and then one on top of the impeller. Your kit may or may not have them in the kit so you can reuse the old ones as long as they aren’t totally destroyed etc
I’ll try my best if I get another motor. Timing on these should never really go wrong unless something is to break or if someone is messing w it for no reason. These aren’t like other outboards where the timing goes out from the belt stretching or something breaks etc. I’ve never seen one that wasn’t timed correctly. So if you get one of these motors just don’t mess w the timing or anything there’s no need to. But if I get a motor I’ll see about going through the steps if it were to somehow lose timing
hi thanks for all your videos they are really helpful as i live in ireland and have trouble finding out some information. i bumped my 8hp mercury 2 stroke off a rock while reversing and the motor stopped, it started up again and after a minute or two it made one or two screeching noises like something sticking for a split second but then it ran al l right again power wise but i noticed that the water from the telltale was not as strong and a bit more erratic. i dropped the lower unit and replaced the whole waterpump unit and impeller with a new one but when i started it chewed u the new impeller almost instantly, i believe i had all the washers the shaft key etc all in prporley and i put a little marine lube in the housing to help it spin before the water hit it. What i want to know is do you think a warped drive shaft or propeller shaft cou;d be the cause of my new impellor getting chewed up and also is there an easy way to check if my drive shaft or prop shaft is warped. sorry for all the questions but i have seen a 10hp 2 stroke mercury about the same age (2000) and i was thinking of buying it and i was wondering is the 8hp and 10 hp firstly the same engine block or is it that the 6 and 8hp are the same and then the 9.9 and 15 are the same because my thinking is if i buy the 10hp engine which seems to be running sweet could i take the lower unit off it and bolt it straight onto the 8hp i already have to just check everything else is running good as the 8hp is a very clean engine with very low miles on it, if it went ok then i could try and source a lower unit or drive shaft for my 8hp but they seem hard to track down second hand. hope some of this makes sense and keep putting up the good videos as the provide excellent info, i usually mess around with old vespa engines so this is my first attempt at working on an outboard and your videos are my go to for clear helpful information. Merry christmas
First when you hit the rock there is a chance you could have damaged the gears in the bullet. The water pumps on these are intermittent cus they have thermostats. Check your thermostat as well and just make sure it’s not stuck closed and allowing the powerhead to over heat. Your water pump getting chewed right away can be a couple things. If you notice in some of my vids I talk about/ show me running my fingeres inside the water pump housing and faceplate of the water pump. Check for any deep scratches from those washers. If your nail can fit in the scratches then you need new one. If this happens it allows air to get sucked in and overheat the water pump. The way to check your driveshaft to see if it’s bent you should be able to just spin it in neutral and you should be able to see any warping going on etc. unless you got a dial indicator to put on the shaft and spin it then that would work as well. From what I understand and the research I’ve done in service books. The 6/8/9.9 are the same with different carb jets etc for many years. Now for some of these motors depending on serial range. The 9.9 and the 15s are the same but there’s only a very small few that work that way. Other wise it goes 6/8/9.9 15 by itself and then 20/25 etc. hope this all helps and hope I answered all your qs
Hi I have a question for you, when you took out the lower unit to change the water pump I noticed that the flat washer of the shift linkage didn’t come out. What did you do then? To check that it was in place when assembling back together
Yes it wasn’t allowing the water to come out of the powerhead. So the water was just recycling in the powerhead causing the motor to overheat cus the water would just keep heating up cus it has no where to go and no new fresh water was allowed to come in the engine to keep it cool
Greetings Again Finatics,
Please clarify something for me.....@ 20:56 I saw that same type rubber seal piece (with the split in it) fall off of my tube or rod as well and I had no idea where it'd fallen from....thanks to your video, I now know where it came from but I didn't see you put yours back on top of the pump cover-rod base area during re-assembly, does that mean this piece is irrelevant?
Again Thanks for these Amazing, thorough high quality videos...I have not seen much video content that is better or on this level of Awesomeness!😉
Hi there yes I didn’t reinstall it as I was just trying to keep this build cheap as possible and my kit didn’t come with a new one. It’s def not irrelevant tho if you can get one I recommend you installing it on your motor. It’s meant to keep and debris,sand or whatever from getting back into the housing. Just helps prevent the water pump from getting more damage as well as the water pump housing etc. I’ll try and get the part number for you but yes if this is your own motor I recommend you replace it I just didn’t do it cus the motor was low on compression and I just wanted to make a video for some of ya out there on the other stuff.
www.boats.net/product/mercury/86203?ref=531e540e821a6faeea55884797ada40a5eecdd4c
This is a link w the part number and if you wanna check out any other parts w a diagram. This is a really good website to use. You can recheck w your own serial number but for the most part they are all the same so this should be the one you need hope this helps you
@@outboardfinatic thanks for the speedy reply, information, & insight. I got the kit on the way now with that O-ring included. You’re Outstanding!👍🏾👌🏾
@@TheSilverSurfisher awesome to hear that hope everything works out for ya. Any other qs in the future just lmk. Also just keep in mind you’ll want both of those washers as well one will go below the water pump and then one on top of the impeller. Your kit may or may not have them in the kit so you can reuse the old ones as long as they aren’t totally destroyed etc
wondering if you could do a video with setting the timing and pulling off the flywheel and showing how the timing works.
I’ll try my best if I get another motor. Timing on these should never really go wrong unless something is to break or if someone is messing w it for no reason. These aren’t like other outboards where the timing goes out from the belt stretching or something breaks etc. I’ve never seen one that wasn’t timed correctly. So if you get one of these motors just don’t mess w the timing or anything there’s no need to. But if I get a motor I’ll see about going through the steps if it were to somehow lose timing
hi thanks for all your videos they are really helpful as i live in ireland and have trouble finding out some information. i bumped my 8hp mercury 2 stroke off a rock while reversing and the motor stopped, it started up again and after a minute or two it made one or two screeching noises like something sticking for a split second but then it ran al l right again power wise but i noticed that the water from the telltale was not as strong and a bit more erratic. i dropped the lower unit and replaced the whole waterpump unit and impeller with a new one but when i started it chewed u the new impeller almost instantly, i believe i had all the washers the shaft key etc all in prporley and i put a little marine lube in the housing to help it spin before the water hit it. What i want to know is do you think a warped drive shaft or propeller shaft cou;d be the cause of my new impellor getting chewed up and also is there an easy way to check if my drive shaft or prop shaft is warped. sorry for all the questions but i have seen a 10hp 2 stroke mercury about the same age (2000) and i was thinking of buying it and i was wondering is the 8hp and 10 hp firstly the same engine block or is it that the 6 and 8hp are the same and then the 9.9 and 15 are the same because my thinking is if i buy the 10hp engine which seems to be running sweet could i take the lower unit off it and bolt it straight onto the 8hp i already have to just check everything else is running good as the 8hp is a very clean engine with very low miles on it, if it went ok then i could try and source a lower unit or drive shaft for my 8hp but they seem hard to track down second hand. hope some of this makes sense and keep putting up the good videos as the provide excellent info, i usually mess around with old vespa engines so this is my first attempt at working on an outboard and your videos are my go to for clear helpful information. Merry christmas
First when you hit the rock there is a chance you could have damaged the gears in the bullet. The water pumps on these are intermittent cus they have thermostats. Check your thermostat as well and just make sure it’s not stuck closed and allowing the powerhead to over heat. Your water pump getting chewed right away can be a couple things. If you notice in some of my vids I talk about/ show me running my fingeres inside the water pump housing and faceplate of the water pump. Check for any deep scratches from those washers. If your nail can fit in the scratches then you need new one. If this happens it allows air to get sucked in and overheat the water pump. The way to check your driveshaft to see if it’s bent you should be able to just spin it in neutral and you should be able to see any warping going on etc. unless you got a dial indicator to put on the shaft and spin it then that would work as well. From what I understand and the research I’ve done in service books. The 6/8/9.9 are the same with different carb jets etc for many years. Now for some of these motors depending on serial range. The 9.9 and the 15s are the same but there’s only a very small few that work that way. Other wise it goes 6/8/9.9 15 by itself and then 20/25 etc. hope this all helps and hope I answered all your qs
Your videos are great but that link rod that so you deftly guide into the motor remains a mistery! Would you maybe provide a diagram? Thank you.
Which link rod you referring to? One on the carb or the lower unit shifter
Hi I have a question for you, when you took out the lower unit to change the water pump I noticed that the flat washer of the shift linkage didn’t come out. What did you do then? To check that it was in place when assembling back together
Was the faulty thermostat impeding the water flow on water pump?
Yes it wasn’t allowing the water to come out of the powerhead. So the water was just recycling in the powerhead causing the motor to overheat cus the water would just keep heating up cus it has no where to go and no new fresh water was allowed to come in the engine to keep it cool