Thank you for making this video! I am at 110k and never done any service on the front/rear/transfer. Dealer wants $400+ to do it, this is simple now that I understand it!
Ok so I just completed this - Make Note of this: You only need to remove the 6 - 15mm bolts on the skid plate, not the 10mm bolts, save some time. Also if you're using the pouches, make sure you get the right angle into the differential as it is recessed a little bit. I found that using my index finger to point the spout into the bottom right corner, there is a little slot for it to fit into to minimize excess leakage. You only need a 15mm socket for the skid plate bolts, an 18mm for the fill plug, and the 3/8 driver/extension for the drain plug. Torque is correct at 24 foot pounds.
I was concerned about the seals so skipped that part. The oil that came out was pretty clean or I would have poured in some fresh oil and drained it to do a little cleaning.
Hello great video, if you want to flush the rear diff fill it, and then run it 100 miles and change again. If you can't run it due to time, fill the diff, and then drain it agian. Spraying brake clean into diff is a NO-no.
Thank you, super helpful! Question about the rear, since it doesn't have a drain plug and if I don't want to remove the cover, can I just suction the old gear oil out with my hand pump extractor? Thanks again!
Would love to see a brake fluid change and brake line bleed on the ‘15 Silverado. About to do the front and rear diffs and the transfer case this weekend. Knocked out the transmission fluid last weekend. Keep up the good work!
Minimal equipment approach. This is what I did. I had DOT3 fluid, a 10mm wrench, a piece of clear flexible plastic tube, a turkey baster, something to catch the drained fluid in, and a helper to press the brake pedal. If you have nobody to press the pedal, you'll need more equipment you make yourself or buy. Wear gloves and don't spill the fluid on paint. 1. I used the turkey baster to suck out the old fluid in the master cylinder reservoir. 2. I filled the reservoir with new fluid. 3. I removed the wheels to make the rest of the process easier. 4. On the front left caliper, I put the 10mm boxed end wrench on the bleed fitting. 5. I put the plastic tube on the bleed fitting and the other end in the catch container. 6. With the wrench, I opened the bleed fitting about 1 turn. 7. I put my finger lightly on the end of the drain tube. 8. I had my helper depress and hold down the brake pedal. 9. I could have closed the bleed fitting, but instead I tightly pressed my finger against the end of the tube, (To prevent letting air go back up the tube, air in the brake line is dangerous) and then had my helper let off the brake pedal. 10. Repeated 7 through 9 until the fluid coming out was clear. 11. Tightened the bleed fitting and removed tube. 12. Refilled the master cylinder reservoir. (Check it often to make sure if does not go dry, because you'll get air in the brake lines if it goes dry.) 12. Repeated the process for the front right, left rear, and right rear.
I would wait about 15 mins then use a little compressed air to blow in there to dry that brake cleaner out I thnk its a good idea and wont hurt a thing as long as it dries up
I'll share something I discovered the hard way. Seals on the bag of fluid can vary a lot. Under the cap on the oil there is a seal that must be removed (on the brand that I used). Some were extremely difficult to get off. Used needle nose pliers to puncture then pry off. Another was already loose and came off in the cap when I unscrewed it. Dig that one out of the cap. Wasn't expecting one to be loose and I spilled some oil. So, just hold the neck of the bag and be prepared for it to already be open or to use a tool to get that seal off. I used a different brand of oil, so the problems may be limited to that brand. Just hoping to help others avoid a spill.
Hey bud I have the same truck mine is leaking from the differential vent hose would you be able to make a video where is your vent hose located mine is facing down where the shock goes
Agree. I learned quickly to keep the spout pointed upward until in the hole, then make sure it is pointed downward while pouring/squeezing. Otherwise, some will run right back down the outside and make a mess. Once I trained myself, it was actually fairly simple. Another part of my learning was to hold the bag by the neck when removing the cap and seal.
Just call any chevrolet dealer ask to speak to parts and give them the year and model and the last 5 digits of the vin number and they will tell you if you happen to go in person they print it out
You can also go to amsoil website and use the vehicle finder deal. It provides type and qty for all cases. That being said the dealer and vin is fool proof.
Thank you for making this video! I am at 110k and never done any service on the front/rear/transfer. Dealer wants $400+ to do it, this is simple now that I understand it!
Ok so I just completed this - Make Note of this: You only need to remove the 6 - 15mm bolts on the skid plate, not the 10mm bolts, save some time. Also if you're using the pouches, make sure you get the right angle into the differential as it is recessed a little bit. I found that using my index finger to point the spout into the bottom right corner, there is a little slot for it to fit into to minimize excess leakage.
You only need a 15mm socket for the skid plate bolts, an 18mm for the fill plug, and the 3/8 driver/extension for the drain plug. Torque is correct at 24 foot pounds.
Wish I had read this comment before doing the job. After losing some oil, I figured it out, but better to know and avoid any spill.
Thank you for the video. I personally wouldn't spray brake cleaner in there, but that's just me.
I was concerned about the seals so skipped that part. The oil that came out was pretty clean or I would have poured in some fresh oil and drained it to do a little cleaning.
Hello great video, if you want to flush the rear diff fill it, and then run it 100 miles and change again. If you can't run it due to time, fill the diff, and then drain it agian. Spraying brake clean into diff is a NO-no.
Best to use a bit of gear oil if you want to flush. You will likely have a partial quart left over anyway.
Thank you, super helpful! Question about the rear, since it doesn't have a drain plug and if I don't want to remove the cover, can I just suction the old gear oil out with my hand pump extractor? Thanks again!
Would love to see a brake fluid change and brake line bleed on the ‘15 Silverado. About to do the front and rear diffs and the transfer case this weekend. Knocked out the transmission fluid last weekend. Keep up the good work!
Noted! Will do.
Minimal equipment approach. This is what I did. I had DOT3 fluid, a 10mm wrench, a piece of clear flexible plastic tube, a turkey baster, something to catch the drained fluid in, and a helper to press the brake pedal. If you have nobody to press the pedal, you'll need more equipment you make yourself or buy. Wear gloves and don't spill the fluid on paint. 1. I used the turkey baster to suck out the old fluid in the master cylinder reservoir. 2. I filled the reservoir with new fluid. 3. I removed the wheels to make the rest of the process easier. 4. On the front left caliper, I put the 10mm boxed end wrench on the bleed fitting. 5. I put the plastic tube on the bleed fitting and the other end in the catch container. 6. With the wrench, I opened the bleed fitting about 1 turn. 7. I put my finger lightly on the end of the drain tube. 8. I had my helper depress and hold down the brake pedal. 9. I could have closed the bleed fitting, but instead I tightly pressed my finger against the end of the tube, (To prevent letting air go back up the tube, air in the brake line is dangerous) and then had my helper let off the brake pedal. 10. Repeated 7 through 9 until the fluid coming out was clear. 11. Tightened the bleed fitting and removed tube. 12. Refilled the master cylinder reservoir. (Check it often to make sure if does not go dry, because you'll get air in the brake lines if it goes dry.) 12. Repeated the process for the front right, left rear, and right rear.
Honestly i would have flushed it with the gear oil not brake clean just not sure what brake clean does to oil 🤔 but good video overall
I would wait about 15 mins then use a little compressed air to blow in there to dry that brake cleaner out I thnk its a good idea and wont hurt a thing as long as it dries up
I have a loud whine coming from either transfer case or diff. Going to see if changing fluid helps. 185k and idk if it’s ever been done lol
I'll share something I discovered the hard way. Seals on the bag of fluid can vary a lot. Under the cap on the oil there is a seal that must be removed (on the brand that I used). Some were extremely difficult to get off. Used needle nose pliers to puncture then pry off. Another was already loose and came off in the cap when I unscrewed it. Dig that one out of the cap. Wasn't expecting one to be loose and I spilled some oil. So, just hold the neck of the bag and be prepared for it to already be open or to use a tool to get that seal off. I used a different brand of oil, so the problems may be limited to that brand. Just hoping to help others avoid a spill.
Does it take 2 quarts?
Hey bud I have the same truck mine is leaking from the differential vent hose would you be able to make a video where is your vent hose located mine is facing down where the shock goes
I thought the transfer case was supposed to get transmission fluid
He misspoke. It's the front diff.
@@guywilliam6065 lol I know
how's it running with that new amsoil ?
Everything is running excellent, I am uploading the oil change with Blackstone Labs results video now.
Still trying to get my F'n fill plug loose.....
Those packs look like a nightmare. The hose and pump is sooo much easier
Agree. I learned quickly to keep the spout pointed upward until in the hole, then make sure it is pointed downward while pouring/squeezing. Otherwise, some will run right back down the outside and make a mess. Once I trained myself, it was actually fairly simple. Another part of my learning was to hold the bag by the neck when removing the cap and seal.
I use a hose, cut about 6 inches long on the nozzle of the squeeze pack. Works faster than a pump.
The brake cleaner doesn’t dry up the rubber gasket?
Brake cleaner eats just about everything but metal.
Does the front diff and rear diff take the same fluid?
Just call any chevrolet dealer ask to speak to parts and give them the year and model and the last 5 digits of the vin number and they will tell you if you happen to go in person they print it out
You can also go to amsoil website and use the vehicle finder deal. It provides type and qty for all cases. That being said the dealer and vin is fool proof.
Yes it does
Thanks man.
More than a 10 minute job.
you're that slow?