This is great info thanks. Do you have detail on what resistor to fit where to clear CEL? I'm having a performance exhaust manifold made and am removing EGR.
I got lucky and was able to take that top bolt off on the side, you're right about now leverage but I took out the 2 bolts to the transmission spout and loosed that brake line bolt and bam! Was able to get a small socket on it. Great tutorial!
@@NuttyNu I hate removing the intake manifold on these motors. Such difficult bolts to get to. But it will be a good opportunity to clean underneath it while it is all out.
Almost seems like it might be worth drilling a large hole with a hole saw through the firewall from inside to get to that bolt then cap it off after? Should’ve bought a thin cutting disc for your grinder. Cuts aluminium easy. Cheers
This is what I read on Land Cruiser forum about it: That is a huge amount of work for a cosmetic improvement. If the issue was the heat next to the wiring harness, then just plugging the actuator line would have cured it because the tube doesn't get that hot if there is no exhaust gas flowing through it.
@@KiyaWarrior I don't know. It's not necessary for an egr disable. With mine, I just used the hudd expo temp sensor plug and then plugged vacuum lines. The pipe was left in place, egr valve removed.
that would had been my next option if I didn't strip the head of the bolt. Still, knowing what I know now. I would just do it from the top and remove the manifold like I did, and do other maintenance that's along this line
@@NuttyNu as you pointed out, it's ideal to pull the motor. The 1fs is a beast of a block, not the best fuel economy but it can really wake up with boost.
had the same code but mine needed the VSV valve. How do you figure out what type of resistor you need depending on what MIL code you get? just wondering
Hi, I have a 2000 LC100 with a 1fz-fe engine and have the same problem as you. I changed the charcoal canister and replaced with an OEM. I still have the pressure and swoosh every time I open the fuel tank. It’s eating my head I don’t know what the problem could be. Please help!
@@NuttyNu If you can why didn’t you just put a plate there? That way no one would know that it’s deleted. And, it would be a hell of a lot easier! Will that make the engine light go off? And, will a 10a resistor clear it?
How did you remove the upper intake after disconnecting everthing. The egr is in the way and the bolt on the intake is in the way. Did you have ti remove the egr valve with the big nut
@@NuttyNu I figured it out. I removed the studs off the intake. Didn't have to remove the EGR. I did not want to remove the big nut, union. That would have been a pita
Update, added resistor where the heat temp plugs too & no more CEL.
This is great info thanks. Do you have detail on what resistor to fit where to clear CEL? I'm having a performance exhaust manifold made and am removing EGR.
2nd for resistor info
@@h2489-m2l 10k resistor ok eBay.
How do u add the resistor? Do u cut the plug off and solder the resistor to the 2 wires?
Excellent job. Way to persevere, nothing worst than starting a project and finding out that it only becomes more difficult. Very informative.
Thank you!
I got lucky and was able to take that top bolt off on the side, you're right about now leverage but I took out the 2 bolts to the transmission spout and loosed that brake line bolt and bam! Was able to get a small socket on it. Great tutorial!
Great detailed video! I'm in the process of doing a lot of work on my 1997, and considering deleting egr as well
You can do it!
@@NuttyNu I hate removing the intake manifold on these motors. Such difficult bolts to get to. But it will be a good opportunity to clean underneath it while it is all out.
same here. bad design on Toyota. not sure why they made it like that.
@@NuttyNu not a bad design in terms of intake runners. They are at optimal length
Hudd expo sells a kit for $35
A lot less work.
I used it in on my 1993.
Update, check engines light came right back after I cleared it. Will be installing a resistor soon. Update to come or a new video following this mod.
Almost seems like it might be worth drilling a large hole with a hole saw through the firewall from inside to get to that bolt then cap it off after? Should’ve bought a thin cutting disc for your grinder. Cuts aluminium easy. Cheers
Couldn't you just cap the threaded pipe that's very difficult to remove and leave it in place?
Yes. But it would still get hot. The main point is to get rid of it.
This is what I read on Land Cruiser forum about it: That is a huge amount of work for a cosmetic improvement.
If the issue was the heat next to the wiring harness, then just plugging the actuator line would have cured it because the tube doesn't get that hot if there is no exhaust gas flowing through it.
@@vanillathunder988 Whats the thread pitch diameter for that threaded pipe? Any suggestions to block it easily?
@@KiyaWarrior I don't know. It's not necessary for an egr disable. With mine, I just used the hudd expo temp sensor plug and then plugged vacuum lines. The pipe was left in place, egr valve removed.
My husband and I sees you driving around. We honk and wave.
hi
Not sure if it'd work, but an offset wrench might reach that bolt. I may give it a shot and upload a vid. Thanks for sharing
that would had been my next option if I didn't strip the head of the bolt. Still, knowing what I know now. I would just do it from the top and remove the manifold like I did, and do other maintenance that's along this line
@@NuttyNu as you pointed out, it's ideal to pull the motor. The 1fs is a beast of a block, not the best fuel economy but it can really wake up with boost.
need to change spark plugs? just remove the whole engine
That 6th spark plug is tricky with the hood on.
I know this video is kind of old. How does it perform now? Any MPG improvements?
I have a lifted big rig. No mpg
had the same code but mine needed the VSV valve. How do you figure out what type of resistor you need depending on what MIL code you get? just wondering
Most EGR delete is 10k resistor
I might just LS swap...
Ida drilled the firewall, unbolt it with a socket, then patch… 😳😳😳
Hi, I have a 2000 LC100 with a 1fz-fe engine and have the same problem as you. I changed the charcoal canister and replaced with an OEM. I still have the pressure and swoosh every time I open the fuel tank. It’s eating my head I don’t know what the problem could be. Please help!
I’ve deleted my charcoal canister
@@NuttyNu any idea what could cause the pressure in the fuel tank. I was advised to change this part 77720-60070
What if you chopped down a socked to fit that space?
Too complicated that way.
Why can’t you just put a plate where the 2 bolts hold the EGR in place? Isn’t the purpose to prevent exhaust going back into the motor?
Yes you can
@@NuttyNu
If you can why didn’t you just put a plate there? That way no one would know that it’s deleted. And, it would be a hell of a lot easier!
Will that make the engine light go off? And, will a 10a resistor clear it?
Did you notice a bump in gas mileage at all?
No
How did you remove the upper intake after disconnecting everthing. The egr is in the way and the bolt on the intake is in the way. Did you have ti remove the egr valve with the big nut
Yes, all of that needs to be remove. PITA
@@NuttyNu I figured it out. I removed the studs off the intake. Didn't have to remove the EGR. I did not want to remove the big nut, union. That would have been a pita
Que protocolo de lenguaje tiene e el escáner que comunica gracias
Why did u have to remove the exhaust pipe to the EGR? Why not cap it off?
Can not do it that way
@@NuttyNu Why can’t you?
You’ll know once you do it
@@NuttyNu Very helpful thanks
But why delete?
It's restrictive on the already underpowered engine.
@@Bru946 is the power improvement noticeable?
You gain ~1-2mph on the highway