I Built Fully Functional Tank Tracks With Independent Links!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- In this episode we are back in Gearblocks with fully functional tank tracks! I decided to try building tank tracks since we already built a transmission and sure enough it is entirely possible!
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Time to build a tank.
Time to drive a train
The tank tracks don't need a gear or a gear piece though.
Time to build a locomotive lol, get hyce to help lol
The track itself is the "chain", and the sprocket is the "driving wheel".
The "teeth" on the track go in between the "wheels" to keep the track centered.
All you need to do to fix the track you have build and make it work as it should, is to remove the middle wheel of which set of wheels.
Each set of wheels you have is 3, so remove the middle one, and leave only the 2. Then on the middle piece of the track, you add a "teeth" the smallest extrusion you can, so it fits between the wheels, and keeps the track lined up. That's how tank tracks work.
No idea who told you that they need a gear and teeth on the track for it to work, when it's clearly wrong... or at least is wrong for most tanks. It might be the case for a certain specific one that's the minority.
TL:DR - The wheels of the tank should look like "H" when looked at from the front or the back, and the middle track piece should look like "T"... with a shorter part pointing down, so it fits perfectly in the "H". That's how to make a tank track. You already have 90% of it.
Fun fact: it isn't the teeth of the drive sprocket that retains the tracks. At least on modern tracked vehicles, the tracks retain themselves, as they have the guides built onto them. Since tracks are consumables, automatically replacing the track guides when you replace the tracks makes the most sense.
what if center part of track is made of 3x2 blocks. then you can place a small pulley or rod between inner and outer wheel to make a groove for the track to be guided by
As I understand it: going forwards, the back wheel pulls the bottom of the track taut, and pushes the top of it so it's looser. Going backwards, the top is taut and the bottom is loose, which is probably why reverse doesn't work so well.
Really excited to see where this project goes! I can't get enough of this game
As far as i understand Contact Detection is for the destruction physics and sounds. "Off" is the best for tanks as it doesn't change how they drive and makes it so you don't go deaf
Also use springs for tension, pistons after that to help the springs tension if needed, Tracks don't have a perfect circular travel round the end so you need a spring to smooth that movement out without gaining/loosing tension as you drive.
Last note: Your wheels are too small for those links, you need to use smaller links if you want to use the trolley wheels so you can smooth out the ride
the wheels are 3x3x3 as you have them setup, that gives an overall track diameter of 5, your links are over half the overall Diameter at 3 long, that's making a huge tension difference in your track as you drive, it would be more obvious to see with a spring so the distance would become easily measurable. Try making the track segments 2 long and you should see a marked improvement in how it drives. Even before you replace the piston with a spring.
A good rule of thumb is that you want to keep your tracks at most half as big as your wheel so they have room to wrap round without causing huge tension differences due to the change in the length the track wants as the segments move round the wheels.
edit: single drive point tanks are very possible with wheels without making them have crazy grip numbers, your ratios and tension method have just not been iterated enough yet to fix the problems with the tracks flopping about.
There are two styles of track guides.
One style as you mentioned, is slotted drive wheels where the track segments have a single "tooth" each that passes through the slots.
The other main style is the inverse, the track has two "teeth" either side and the wheel is just a normal solid wheel that rides inbetween the teeth.
You could easily make this second version, make your middle track links skinnier or your outer links thicker, then delete the two outside wheels.
I'd also try putting in suspension on the track tensioner so you can preload it with the piston and get a more secure fit that can flex as needed.
The different wheels also have specific names.
The front unpowered wheel that adjusts the tension is called the idler, it may or may not normally be in contact with the ground.
The wheels in the middle are called road wheels.
The rear powered wheel is the drive wheel or drive sprocket depending if it's a rubber wheel or a toothed sprocket.
You may find that raising the idler and drive wheel up higher helps a lot.
It allows you to climb taller obstacles (by creating a ramp of track) and the links don't need to turn 180 degrees in one short go.
The idler and drive wheel should also be larger in that setup because they have the sharper angles, to larger diameters help minimise the individual chain link angles.
Time to build *an M3 halftrack*
Those linear tracks remind me of those little excavators that companies are using for digging in your yard or minor road works and stuff.
I believe the "sounds like death" from the tracks is what the community means by contact detection. having a ton of audio will cause some lag and turning that setting off gets rid of the audio from collisions. If someone can correct me if I'm wrong here but continuous would be impact audio and scraping while impact only is.. impact only, surprise! and then you have off of course. which eliminates the extra processing and thus lag from 30+ rigid bodies making audio for contacting the ground and inside wheels. You should try cranking up update and constraint rate next time you're playing. keeps constructions more rigid/less flex from connections and doesn't impact performance too much.. but benefits complex creations as far as consistency. anyways Im rambling hahaha
Yay! You made me get gearblocks! It's really fun!
for a prototype it works! well done, Can't wait for v2 that can handle a vertical wall. Be careful not to make it too big
So with a guide hammering the tracks back on each rotation, and a distinctive “tink tink tink” sound….you built a T-34! 😂
Not sure if someone else said it, but you could use a suspension on the end of the piston as a tensioner. If you extend your guide forward, it should not catch in reverse.
"Tanks are slow anyways."
The S-tank, Scorpion, CV90 and other tank or tank-like vehicles: Hold my oil.
Ripsaw...
I really think that you should fit a V12 into this tine little tank.
I mean, why not? You have the power to do it so JUST DO IT!
You can use a dual dif to mixed with some clutches to achieve tank steering from one engine. Also suspension rather than a piston
Edit. The 5 direction block can be used as a drive wheel.
I would recommend looking at images of real world tracks. For your tracks you could look at excavator tracks and to see how the wheels keep the tracks centered on the wheels.
there is a dude on TH-cam called AL Magma that made some great tracks
You need separate road wheels and sprockets and whatever the wheels that keep it tensioned are called
idler
idler, that's what it's called
And the return sprocket.
you could gain a little more grip by changing your track material to rubber, so it's rubber on rubber.
I've been putting off tank treads for too long, time for another class with Professor kAN!
I think the main difference Is that tank tracks links are perpendicular to the direction of the track itself and that Is what makes the off-road work. You have longitudinal track links.
Yes and no.
Tracks can be perfectly flat on the bottom. It depends on the application.
The old NASA launch platform that drives from the assembly building to the launch site has flat pads and relies on its huge mass to give it enough traction to drive along the smooth flat surface.
A bulldozer however will have large lateral grousers that dig into soft ground to give it more traction.
But have you ever seen a bulldozer drive down a sealed road?
Many armoured vehicles like the M113 use replaceable rubber "feet". These cushion it on the road to prevent damage and being rubber that can flex they give it huge traction whilst also working in soft soils.
A good analogy is the steel wheels of a road roller, compared to chunky 4x4 off-road tires compared to tires fitted with mud chains (like snow chains, only more heavy duty and aggressive).
Aren't the drive wheels on tanks on the front? Maybe that would help with the climbing.
I remember waiting for the scrap mechanic survival update and when it came out I was so happy, now imagine gearblocks survival multiplayer VR
3:43 the shadow on the floor kinda looks like a tank 😂
I feel like once you go bigger it will react a lot better. This is really cool though
I have built tracks using the gears and tooth rack concept, but it's a lot more difficult than it you'd think to make it functional... and my game cried... granted, I didn't know about the performance tools and right-click editing yet...
You could try making a sprocket that goes in between the gaps in the links
Hi
Need suspention for each wheel.
Looking at tank suspention on bumps is all the satisfaction of it.
Personally, I would have had the tensioner on the two middle wheels pushing down. Or I’d add torque springs to bars that connect to the non-driven wheels, and that way I always have the best tension and good suspension.
Would buy the game and experiment but I don’t have a job, so I need to save money
What if you use suspension as a tensioner? because you could use it as tension and suspension at the same time, while also making the tracks an more capable shape.
Hey man in theory if you were to make the track shoes into an L shape they would be able to grip more over rough terrain.
Could you make like a plus shaped driver between two of the tires and have it go into the teeth?
Fully functional for certain values of functional.
Would moving the drive wheels to the center be better?
this made me want to play but im out of town for a week and need to get a new ethernet cable to set up my new pc
Greatest creation game of all time
There a cross block. That is used on marble machine that you can use to power an keep it on track
Cooking with Bacon? I love bacon but necer heard that one before.
I dont think you can change stroke can you? Stoke is determined by radius of the crankshaft
Wow kAN didnt know you could Cuthulu a Tank
Hey Kan, ever thought of making a motorcycle?
Yea I have a Tamiya RC motorbike that works by leaning the rider. Would be interesting to see if a similar system could be made with a free floating front axle and only using the rider's weight to control the bike.
on it's own.. nearly impossible in gearblocks.. Would need to have a side car.
i have lost count but still gonna ask you to build the ride lwnmower
kAN bout to make the L3/33
YOUR COOLEST VIDEO YET!
Can you build a German tank haha
hel yeah bro
Flare the guides.
Am I the only one who forgot kan was Canadian
woooooooo
Day 11 of asking Kan to play grasslands hide & seek map
Tank
ok
Don't look at the workshop. People are insane..
1 minute gang too
>1 minute gang
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