This presentation - from LT himself - gains massive credibility when he names other “great” knives. I love my LT Wrights, but also Esee, etc. We all have personal needs and preferences, and Mr. Wright acknowledges that. Superb video.
LT Wright Genesis knife owner here. It is definitely my main tool when I am out in the field or camping. The Genesis was also the beginning of my knife collecting adventure. I am very happy I chose it first, as none have came close.
Met LT 3 months ago. Most amazing dude! I stopped in and he gave me a 45 minute shop tour out of the blue before I bought anything. My favorite day of 2019. Star struck!!!! Bought a beautiful Jessmuk O1 in ruby red canvas. Still my favorite knife in collection
I must say out of about 300 plus knives I own the Lt Wright Genesis is the best bushcraft knife I have ever used. I am a Survival instructor in Ireland and always tell my students to save up and buy the Genesis and if you cant afford it, use a mora or hultafors until you can. The handle is neutral and therefore comfortable in every conceivable way. As an instructor I have two Genesis knives on the go and if I lost them I would have to replace them immediately. I have found my Genesis to be my best friend in the woods. My Genesis has retired the likes of Alan Wood Woodlore and Jacklores, it really is that good.
@TunaPlusMayo....LT Wright is slightly more robust than Mora, and this is NOT my opinion. For one thing, LT Wright usually uses a full tang construction, whereas Mora knives usually go with a 3/4 rat tang construction. That being said, I cannot bash Mora Knives beyond their use of rat tangs. Mora has been making premium quality bushcraft knives for much, much longer, and they’re known for being some of the sharpest knives in the world. They have absolutely amazing ergonomics, and you brought up the fact that they’re usually well within someone’s budget. Mora also has a much wider selection of knives and steels that one can try out. They’re an amazing knife company no doubt, but if you’re considering batoning through a lot of hardwood, then consider a full tang construction for whatever knive you end up using. Mind you, I have batoned through hardwood using a Mora knife, but it can loosen the blade from the handle after hours of hard use. That’s never happened to me with an LT Wright full tang. I will finish by saying that Mora is probably superior at carving tasks. It’s the perfect size to manage fine feather sticking and detailed carving. Mora is also great for notch making. Both knife manufacturers are great options for bushcrafting! ✌️
@@anderseckstrand7033 I've watched a video of a rubber Mora handle cut open to expose the "rat tail". Please tell me how you ever got that loose inside of there because it doesn't seem possible. Seriously, watch the video and tell me how you did it.
@@TunaPlusMayo It’s not only possible, it’s highly likely. I’ve blown through a dozen Mora’s over the last 4-5 years. I’ve broken them clean at the base, snapped the tips off, ruptured the handles, etc... There’s a very good reason as to why they’re inexpensive. Their reputation FAR exceeds their actual performance.
@@theblake5356 Then what are you doing to them? I'm curious, not being a jerk. I've also seen a different video of people standing on them as steps stuck into a tree. The model in that video was the Robust though. Sorry to cite so many secondhand sources of abuse, but my own Moras are chugging along great for my simple non-harsh needs.
@@TunaPlusMayo "my simple non-harsh needs" Then it fits: Mora, "my simple non-harsh needs" low budget knife. And I think: Stronger blade, full tang, then we could do business.
The LT Wright knives are superb and are very little known in France, when I see the care taken in their manufacture, it really makes me want to own. One day I will give myself one,... one day :)
These LT Wright knives are such a fantastic value. Not just the Bushcraft variety, but also the multi purpose and EDC options as well. Very excited to own a few.
What a likable, sincere guy. I have a lot of inexpensive knives with just a few north of $100. I always liked the look of the L.T. Wright stuff, but hadn’t pulled the trigger. This moved them to the top of the list.
What a nice man. I had never heard of him until TH-cam brought this up for me. "I'm on a Mora budget with LT Wright tastes" might be my new saying. Good to know what's out there.
LT Wright is a great guy and I’m delighted with my Lagom and Bushcrafter HC knives. The team at LT Wright look like they enjoy their work. Would love to visit one day. Thanks for sharing. All the best from Scotland. Garry
Thank you, KnifeCentre. I am fortunate enough to own quite a few LT Wright knives right across their product range. They are all fantastic knives with outstanding blades that come from the shop 'shaving sharp'. Two great features of all of LT's knives are the individually ground handle profiles. These are, for me at least, the most comfortable, 'grippy' and useful handles of any group of knives I own. Secondly, is LTWK's famous fit and finish. It's impeccable and given that a small group of LT's team work on the finishing, it's uncanny how they are so consistently the same; all full in the hand; all comfortable for extended use and, by the way, just plain beautiful to hold and look at. I am so fortunate, apart from the knives, to have developed genuine friendships with LT, Scooter and his team plus fellow members of LTWK's Pout House group, including the KnifeCenter's David C. Andersen. This is a big statement considering I'm in Australia and I've, as yet, not met any of these outstanding people face to face. A situation I intend to address when I visit LT's shop next year. Thank you, David, for posting this great video and for all your other KnifeCentre videos which I never miss. Cheers, BH Hobart, Tasmania
@Joe Faultroy G'day Joe, Thanks for your comments. Yes, I'm a collector/user, this means I'll search for a knife, or a range of knives, from various makers that suit certain tasks I need to accomplish. I agree with your views on making thick, blades extending right through the handle. This, of course, is a positive advantage in knives over, say 6" up to 10 or even 12" long. On the other hand, LTWK makes a truly handy machete that has a relatively thin blade. The handle ergonomics are outstanding and this tool can be used for a long time without wearing out the user. But, in a 3.5" or 4.5" knife a thick blade is, basically, a design flaw UNLESS one has a specific task that can only be accomplished by such a design... unfortunately, I can't think of a situation where such a blade of that length would be useful at all. I like the way knife design is going now with good ergonomic handled knives with short thin blades that are fashioned out of one of the newer 'super steels'. They hold their factory edge for a really long time and only need careful honing and then a short sharpening sequence, depending on frequency and type of use. LT's range of smaller knives are all multi-use from opening boxes to gutting small animals, to food prep to whittling etc., etc. (My preferred honing is done with ceramic rods of various diameters; I protect them with round Kydex sheaths for use in the field.) At home I use an F. Dick oval cross-section multi-steel that is expensive but extremely effective and will last a couple of lifetimes. I have several long Kukris that have a thick blade profile but then, cleverly, narrow as they enter the handle; reducing the handle thickness and providing a deliberate forward weight result. This is handy in a knife that is used in battle and religious ceremonies where the Kukri is almost like a small axe; decapitating animals for religious sacrifice or, in battle, to this very day where the British Army issues its Gurkha troops modern versions of their ancient designs for 'last ditch' personal protection and offensive weapons. These can be devastatingly effective in close quarter combat where most '1st world' troops have no experience in defending themselves against such formidable weapons that Gurkhas have been using since they were children. A lone WW2 Gurkha soldier won a Victoria Cross for taking out an enemy platoon with his Kukri after everyone ran out of ammunition; a Kukri in experienced hands prevailing over multiple bayonets. Across the board, other kinds of thick bladed knives do take the place of small woodsmen's hatchets for those not wishing to carry an axe like edged tool. An interesting short bladed, single edged dagger type knife was recently designed by serving and former members of the Australian Army. It has a classic 'flattened apex' spine with small saw teeth at the handle end of the non-sharpened edge. It is incredibly light, meant for ambidextrous use and features a 'bottle opener' shaped end loop that one can lock a finger into making this blade extremely hard to wrestle out of the operator’s hand. It is also a good small size that means it can easily be concealed behind webbing or inside or outside of a belt, scout style. Of course, it really has only one primary use, however, I've found a couple of non-combat tasks for it and it is a highly dextrous design that is easy to use and is so light that there are no fatigue issues at all. So, this is my, very long-winded, way of saying that no matter what the blade profile, handle thickness or weight balance, each good knife should have a logical and functional use in mind before it should go into production. Apart from LTWK's famous range I've got a really amazing heavy, 7” long, thick bladed Mike Wallace design with a Yellow Hawk custom sheath. The knife is definitely forward heavy but, strangely feels well balanced due to a slight cant between the angle of the cutting edge and the handle, very similar to the, also excellent, Dark Timber range, if you can get one of these highly sort after knives. I would use one of these knives over a hatchet or even a small axe any day. I use my knives to manufacture walking sticks, for fellow veterans, from fallen native timbers. I also use them in general camping, food prep plus I like to carry a good, sturdy small and large knife when I'm out using my recurve bow when practicing my archery. Other people have other uses for their knives so they gravitate to designs that work for them. It's really a case of 'horses for courses'. It's one of those aspects that make knife using and collecting such a satisfying activity. Cheers, BH P.S. I know I'll cop some flak for such a long post but so be it. I'm a retired writer and journalist and way past caring. ;)
A mora and a hatchet will accomplish 99.9% of camping issues. With that said, I have three lt wright knives, bushcrafter mark2, lagom, and pout aeb-l. All great knives and I’m lucky to have them. The bushcrafter mark 2 Sabre grind is my favorite.
I find Scandi is best for Bushcraft while a slightly thicker blade stock can be used for with a Sabre Grind that can be used for a more survival knife like Bradford knives that can fall into the Survival/Bushcraft blend knife where Something like the CRK Pacific is great for Survival. For a Scandi I love LT Wright like the JX2 Jessmuk, GNS Scandi, Larry Roberts Genesis, Garry Wines Bushcrafter, Bushcrafter Scandi, and for a larger knife Sospes.
Scandi grinds that go all the way to zero will almost always be prone to chipping against hardwoods, unless you’re using a low carbon steel with minimal heat treating. Adding a micro convex edge is smart because it reinforces the carbides that do all the cutting without sacrificing too much in terms of sharpness. It shows that LT Wright has learned through many years of trial and error, and this is a knife manufacturer who actually listens to his customers! LT Wright produces some of the best bushcraft knives in the world period! ✌️
A tip for anybody who uses ferro rods with a 90 degree spine is to set the blade edge down in the middle of your tinder bundle on a hard surface, and you can get sparks from the whole length of the rod without wearing a thin spot in the middle with a nub at the end.
Ahhhhh, now I see why your brought the camera crew! That's pretty cool I enjoyed this video very much. I'm so upset I missed out on that. I really hope it happens next year for me!
I used to carry uncle Henry back in the day when they was USA made I don’t think they are anymore and the Buck knives of course but with the technology has changed and you can buy a knife that has all the bells and whistles like a squad back divers for bow drills better blade steel and gimping you guys make exactly what I’m tall about and can’t wait to try one of your blades
I think that thinner blades are becoming more popular in part because they cut food better than thicker blades which tend to split the food. I think more people use their knives in camp for food preparation than for heavier tasks.
LT made a comment toward the end that sparked my curiosity. He makes it sound like bushcrafting as an activity is fairly new. What exactly is the history of bushcrafting, and how old are each of the techniques used?
Saber grind is more versatile. That is what a lot of people learn. Scandi is a beast when it comes to wood work. When doing food prep, carving and other tasks a good high saber is the thing. Unfortunately I really had not that good experiences with LT Wright bevel grind. Not steep enough. I regrind or even reprofile every LT Wright knife I own....that is kind of disappointing. The handles are the best on the market...like the sharp spines.
Been dreaming of getting a GNS someday😁 I've always been drawn towards LT knives I've heard you folks are good kind Christians . I've been reviewing leather bound premium bibles for 5 years now and its funny cause ya see the same thing in that community as ya do this one. I always get the comments... "$200 for a bible no way I'm spending that much on a bible !!" LOL.. I do understand for most people that's expensive but, like knives ya get what ya pay for. There are lowcost ones that are like the Condor of the bible business and do look nice and work great but nothing is like owning a $150-$200 RL Allan Premium goatskin bible. Knives are the same way, I'm guessing there is nothing like owning an LT Wright knife so if ya want one like I do than we gotta save up and buy that thing. I'm guessing once ya open the box and pull that knife out in hand all those penny's saved will be well spent. I might sale off some of my nice bible collection to get me a GNS..😂
I think the popularity of the thicker blades had to do with the quality of steels used back in the day, thicker steel was more popular because people sacrificed practicality for durability, now that we've got all these super steels they can have both, that's just my theory anyway.
I was going to say the very same thing. The super steels they have today is way better than just 10 years ago as well as the heat treating process gets better with each year that passes. The heat treat process is quite possibly more important than the super steel itself, or in other words you can ruin a nice piece of super steel if you don't have the heat treat done properly. Now you can get away with thin blades and that makes knives much more cut/user friendly.
I make knives of every kind of steel you can imagine, and let me be the first to say that people put way too much emphasis on steel type. Geometry is what makes a knife work or not work. A great design made from basic 1075 steel will run rings around a poorly designed knife made from the latest super steel. Proper heat treat will get the most out of your steel. What steel type does is emphasize some trait that you are after, but like anything else in life it is a compromise. As far as geometry, thickness is a huge part of that and thicker knives simply cut like crap. The first thing you need to determine is whether you want a knife that slices or chops. Something in the middle will do both, but do neither very well. I think a big reason for the really thick bushcraft knives is that they got popular about the same time as tactical knives began to get popular. I lost count of how many tactical knives were more of a sharpened pry bar, because they aren't worth crap as a cutting implement. But if you want to pry and baton hard wood, then you need a blade that will stand up to that- and a second knife in your pack for more delicate cutting tasks.
Even though the story behind these knives is very interesting I would rather buy the fifth Mora. If only I have to choose one knife from many that I owned during the years including folding and fixed blades (Spyderco, Cold Steel etc) I would definitely take Mora Companion stainless. It is cheap but it can do anything. The blade is perfect for hard tasks. After I chopped wood and carved spoons it was still sharp for cutting paper. But sharpening itself is so easy. Thanks to a perfect scandi grind. Didn't even have to take my Spyderco triangle for that. I do like new knives and different designs but I can survive for the rest of my life with just one cheap Mora which these days is doing all of my kitchen work.
i am hoping that a scandi convex mix would come out, , in other words, blending the line between scandi and the line of where the fat part starts, their is a knife sharpening pro, who loves the B.R.K. knives and he is right handed and he keeps left side of convex blade more flat for feather sticking and tight side is perfect for fiend drssing a kill. the rounded convex, he does mostly backcuts and meat practically falls of with out bade knicking into bone, then he has flater side for feathering and he know has a real survival knife
Hi, anyone know the size of the ferro rod loop on the GNS sheath? I just ordered one and want a ferro rod that will fit it, I'm guessing just under 1cm diameter but I'm not sure.
For me, a survival situation is every time I have to carve a spoon. Then I do everything I can to escape, to survive. That's why I carry only survival knives with me...😁
i bought you patch knives, sad to say, , secondary line to convex edge was too thick, I should have went with a more expensive knife from when you were iwith blindhorse, thanks for sending me another patch knife , but same problems, I did profile, the grind was ground with strong striations and getting a better edge,the polishing did not look good with a heavy scratch striations
The two top features of an L.T. Wright knife are the sharp 90 deg. spine, and their blade thickness. The one and only advantage to a thick knife is batoning. A knife feature that is so unnecessary to the outdoorsman as to approach zero. Especially in knives of this size. In every other use of a bushcraft knife thickness is a serious detriment. In the end a bushcraft knife is the outdoorsman's utility knife, so it has to do the most things well while remaining tough. In a four to five inch knife that means 3/32 - 1/8" thickness. I can think of one high-end knife maker who would do well to incorporate these two features.
New to this brand, but I've noticed they are always or at least, seem to be out of stock. Do I need to reach out to that company or is it something that comes in waves?
"Bushcraft[ing]" and its associated trends have turned into a huge industry. Everyone is scrambling for their share of the pie. "Best Bushcraft Knives:" ... I guess I know what to look for now.
Bushcraft knives are to each his own. Me personally no matter the situation im in i never beat the dogshit out of any of my tools. Theres too many of these "torture tests" out there that just are not feasible to any man with half a lick of sense. If you torture your knife you dont deserve it to begin with.
Speaking for the JRE sheaths that LTWK uses, I have wet formed several and they are not bonded leather. And although I have never wet formed a Joker sheath, I have seen nothing to make me think it is not pure leather. -DCA
I just got my 1st LT Wright knife... Im not a NEWBIE in knife forum... been using, handling, collecting knives way before the "bushcraft" craze became chic... I bought the LT Wright knife direct from LT. Wright not from secondary vendor. I will say Im highly disappointed in the finish on the blade ( pocks, water marks, inconsistancy on blade finish ) & handle finish.... It appears to me that the blade may have been a "2nd" & was attempted to be passed off as a knife that passed all the QC ( quality control ) checks... Now after seeing the finish on blade it makes me question the heat treat as well... I dont want my $ back, not looking to get anything gratis just want to tell Mr. LT. Wright to deliver what he promised on this video....
![[Live สด] การออกรางวัลสลากกินแบ่งรัฐบาล งวดวันที่ 16 พฤศจิกายน 2567](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wPd7VFfWHIA/mqdefault.jpg)
This presentation - from LT himself - gains massive credibility when he names other “great” knives. I love my LT Wrights, but also Esee, etc. We all have personal needs and preferences, and Mr. Wright acknowledges that. Superb video.
LT Wright Genesis knife owner here. It is definitely my main tool when I am out in the field or camping. The Genesis was also the beginning of my knife collecting adventure. I am very happy I chose it first, as none have came close.
Met LT 3 months ago. Most amazing dude! I stopped in and he gave me a 45 minute shop tour out of the blue before I bought anything. My favorite day of 2019. Star struck!!!!
Bought a beautiful Jessmuk O1 in ruby red canvas. Still my favorite knife in collection
I must say out of about 300 plus knives I own the Lt Wright Genesis is the best bushcraft knife I have ever used. I am a Survival instructor in Ireland and always tell my students to save up and buy the Genesis and if you cant afford it, use a mora or hultafors until you can. The handle is neutral and therefore comfortable in every conceivable way. As an instructor I have two Genesis knives on the go and if I lost them I would have to replace them immediately. I have found my Genesis to be my best friend in the woods. My Genesis has retired the likes of Alan Wood Woodlore and Jacklores, it really is that good.
I appreciate that he can admit the mora knife is a great knife while trying to sell you a $250 knife. I'll continue to buy both.
@TunaPlusMayo....LT Wright is slightly more robust than Mora, and this is NOT my opinion. For one thing, LT Wright usually uses a full tang construction, whereas Mora knives usually go with a 3/4 rat tang construction.
That being said, I cannot bash Mora Knives beyond their use of rat tangs. Mora has been making premium quality bushcraft knives for much, much longer, and they’re known for being some of the sharpest knives in the world. They have absolutely amazing ergonomics, and you brought up the fact that they’re usually well within someone’s budget. Mora also has a much wider selection of knives and steels that one can try out. They’re an amazing knife company no doubt, but if you’re considering batoning through a lot of hardwood, then consider a full tang construction for whatever knive you end up using.
Mind you, I have batoned through hardwood using a Mora knife, but it can loosen the blade from the handle after hours of hard use. That’s never happened to me with an LT Wright full tang.
I will finish by saying that Mora is probably superior at carving tasks. It’s the perfect size to manage fine feather sticking and detailed carving. Mora is also great for notch making.
Both knife manufacturers are great options for bushcrafting! ✌️
@@anderseckstrand7033 I've watched a video of a rubber Mora handle cut open to expose the "rat tail". Please tell me how you ever got that loose inside of there because it doesn't seem possible. Seriously, watch the video and tell me how you did it.
@@TunaPlusMayo It’s not only possible, it’s highly likely. I’ve blown through a dozen Mora’s over the last 4-5 years. I’ve broken them clean at the base, snapped the tips off, ruptured the handles, etc... There’s a very good reason as to why they’re inexpensive. Their reputation FAR exceeds their actual performance.
@@theblake5356 Then what are you doing to them? I'm curious, not being a jerk. I've also seen a different video of people standing on them as steps stuck into a tree. The model in that video was the Robust though. Sorry to cite so many secondhand sources of abuse, but my own Moras are chugging along great for my simple non-harsh needs.
@@TunaPlusMayo
"my simple non-harsh needs"
Then it fits:
Mora, "my simple non-harsh needs" low budget knife.
And I think:
Stronger blade, full tang, then we could do business.
I own 3 LT Wright knives. Love em. You can't go wrong with a LT Wright.
More of these from knife makers, love the back story and inspiration for them getting into the trade.
Now that was an AMAZING Interview with and Amazing Friend. Good Job David and Crew..
The LT Wright knives are superb and are very little known in France, when I see the care taken in their manufacture, it really makes me want to own.
One day I will give myself one,... one day :)
These LT Wright knives are such a fantastic value. Not just the Bushcraft variety, but also the multi purpose and EDC options as well. Very excited to own a few.
What a likable, sincere guy. I have a lot of inexpensive knives with just a few north of $100. I always liked the look of the L.T. Wright stuff, but hadn’t pulled the trigger. This moved them to the top of the list.
I can't afford one, but top quality company and leadership. Love this company.
Put $1 in a jar every day. If you had started when you made this post, you could buy one today.
Loving my Battle Horse Knives Bushcrafter. Brother from another mother.
What a nice man. I had never heard of him until TH-cam brought this up for me. "I'm on a Mora budget with LT Wright tastes" might be my new saying. Good to know what's out there.
Hello L.T., thank you for sharing this very informative video. Please keep up your great work. All the best to you and your family. 🤗
LT Wright is a great guy and I’m delighted with my Lagom and Bushcrafter HC knives. The team at LT Wright look like they enjoy their work. Would love to visit one day. Thanks for sharing. All the best from Scotland. Garry
It says a lot about a person or a company that reccomends anothers product as well as their own.I think that is pretty awesome.Thanks and God Bless 👍
Thank you, KnifeCentre. I am fortunate enough to own quite a few LT Wright knives right across their product range. They are all fantastic knives with outstanding blades that come from the shop 'shaving sharp'. Two great features of all of LT's knives are the individually ground handle profiles. These are, for me at least, the most comfortable, 'grippy' and useful handles of any group of knives I own. Secondly, is LTWK's famous fit and finish. It's impeccable and given that a small group of LT's team work on the finishing, it's uncanny how they are so consistently the same; all full in the hand; all comfortable for extended use and, by the way, just plain beautiful to hold and look at.
I am so fortunate, apart from the knives, to have developed genuine friendships with LT, Scooter and his team plus fellow members of LTWK's Pout House group, including the KnifeCenter's David C. Andersen. This is a big statement considering I'm in Australia and I've, as yet, not met any of these outstanding people face to face. A situation I intend to address when I visit LT's shop next year. Thank you, David, for posting this great video and for all your other KnifeCentre videos which I never miss. Cheers, BH Hobart, Tasmania
@Joe Faultroy G'day Joe, Thanks for your comments. Yes, I'm a collector/user, this means I'll search for a knife, or a range of knives, from various makers that suit certain tasks I need to accomplish. I agree with your views on making thick, blades extending right through the handle. This, of course, is a positive advantage in knives over, say 6" up to 10 or even 12" long. On the other hand, LTWK makes a truly handy machete that has a relatively thin blade. The handle ergonomics are outstanding and this tool can be used for a long time without wearing out the user.
But, in a 3.5" or 4.5" knife a thick blade is, basically, a design flaw UNLESS one has a specific task that can only be accomplished by such a design... unfortunately, I can't think of a situation where such a blade of that length would be useful at all.
I like the way knife design is going now with good ergonomic handled knives with short thin blades that are fashioned out of one of the newer 'super steels'. They hold their factory edge for a really long time and only need careful honing and then a short sharpening sequence, depending on frequency and type of use. LT's range of smaller knives are all multi-use from opening boxes to gutting small animals, to food prep to whittling etc., etc. (My preferred honing is done with ceramic rods of various diameters; I protect them with round Kydex sheaths for use in the field.) At home I use an F. Dick oval cross-section multi-steel that is expensive but extremely effective and will last a couple of lifetimes.
I have several long Kukris that have a thick blade profile but then, cleverly, narrow as they enter the handle; reducing the handle thickness and providing a deliberate forward weight result. This is handy in a knife that is used in battle and religious ceremonies where the Kukri is almost like a small axe; decapitating animals for religious sacrifice or, in battle, to this very day where the British Army issues its Gurkha troops modern versions of their ancient designs for 'last ditch' personal protection and offensive weapons. These can be devastatingly effective in close quarter combat where most '1st world' troops have no experience in defending themselves against such formidable weapons that Gurkhas have been using since they were children. A lone WW2 Gurkha soldier won a Victoria Cross for taking out an enemy platoon with his Kukri after everyone ran out of ammunition; a Kukri in experienced hands prevailing over multiple bayonets.
Across the board, other kinds of thick bladed knives do take the place of small woodsmen's hatchets for those not wishing to carry an axe like edged tool.
An interesting short bladed, single edged dagger type knife was recently designed by serving and former members of the Australian Army. It has a classic 'flattened apex' spine with small saw teeth at the handle end of the non-sharpened edge. It is incredibly light, meant for ambidextrous use and features a 'bottle opener' shaped end loop that one can lock a finger into making this blade extremely hard to wrestle out of the operator’s hand. It is also a good small size that means it can easily be concealed behind webbing or inside or outside of a belt, scout style. Of course, it really has only one primary use, however, I've found a couple of non-combat tasks for it and it is a highly dextrous design that is easy to use and is so light that there are no fatigue issues at all.
So, this is my, very long-winded, way of saying that no matter what the blade profile, handle thickness or weight balance, each good knife should have a logical and functional use in mind before it should go into production.
Apart from LTWK's famous range I've got a really amazing heavy, 7” long, thick bladed Mike Wallace design with a Yellow Hawk custom sheath. The knife is definitely forward heavy but, strangely feels well balanced due to a slight cant between the angle of the cutting edge and the handle, very similar to the, also excellent, Dark Timber range, if you can get one of these highly sort after knives. I would use one of these knives over a hatchet or even a small axe any day. I use my knives to manufacture walking sticks, for fellow veterans, from fallen native timbers. I also use them in general camping, food prep plus I like to carry a good, sturdy small and large knife when I'm out using my recurve bow when practicing my archery.
Other people have other uses for their knives so they gravitate to designs that work for them. It's really a case of 'horses for courses'. It's one of those aspects that make knife using and collecting such a satisfying activity. Cheers, BH
P.S. I know I'll cop some flak for such a long post but so be it. I'm a retired writer and journalist and way past caring. ;)
A mora and a hatchet will accomplish 99.9% of camping issues. With that said, I have three lt wright knives, bushcrafter mark2, lagom, and pout aeb-l.
All great knives and I’m lucky to have them. The bushcrafter mark 2 Sabre grind is my favorite.
Love me some LT. I think I have 8 of them and probably several more to come down the road. Outstanding Quality!!!
L. T. for the win. A true knife guy. GNS. Outback. And Large Northern Hunter.
I find Scandi is best for Bushcraft while a slightly thicker blade stock can be used for with a Sabre Grind that can be used for a more survival knife like Bradford knives that can fall into the Survival/Bushcraft blend knife where Something like the CRK Pacific is great for Survival. For a Scandi I love LT Wright like the JX2 Jessmuk, GNS Scandi, Larry Roberts Genesis, Garry Wines Bushcrafter, Bushcrafter Scandi, and for a larger knife Sospes.
That's almost what I want, a 4 in scandy genisis but walnut kephart, love the traditional look
The man is a legend in the Knife Nut/ bushcraft community
Such a cool honest guy 😊🍀👏🏻 I just bought my first Genesis flat grind . I can’t wait to get it delivered 😊🤙🏻
Awesome Video 📹 👏 Definitely enjoyed it. Great information 👍
Scandi grinds that go all the way to zero will almost always be prone to chipping against hardwoods, unless you’re using a low carbon steel with minimal heat treating. Adding a micro convex edge is smart because it reinforces the carbides that do all the cutting without sacrificing too much in terms of sharpness. It shows that LT Wright has learned through many years of trial and error, and this is a knife manufacturer who actually listens to his customers! LT Wright produces some of the best bushcraft knives in the world period! ✌️
A tip for anybody who uses ferro rods with a 90 degree spine is to set the blade edge down in the middle of your tinder bundle on a hard surface, and you can get sparks from the whole length of the rod without wearing a thin spot in the middle with a nub at the end.
Ahhhhh, now I see why your brought the camera crew! That's pretty cool I enjoyed this video very much. I'm so upset I missed out on that. I really hope it happens next year for me!
I've got a few of L.T.'s knives. Great company and knife. Had one custom made though the Pout House too.
ive had a Bush Baby for 6 months. it is an awesome edc knife.
You make beautiful knives sir, I hope to own one some day.
What a nice guy? Very interesting presentation. I've owned lots of knives down the years, but these, surely, must be worth a look.
I dont own any LTW knives (I like big bowies), but LT is a class act and I support what he does 100%. Big fan
what do you use "Big Bowies " for ?
@@baroneroberto3400 whatever I want...its a knife, bro. Its not that complicated.
What exactly do you think you can't do with a big bowie? Lol
What a cool dude! I'm very pleased with my next Gen and my little patriot. Both 3v, outstanding performance.
Fantastic presentation and explanation. Love your knives. And sheathes. Excellent quality in both.
Excellent explanation! Thank you LTW!
gladd to see you LT, have some knives when you were with Blind horse , i have to be honest the patch knife , well big problems but was fixable
👍 Really enjoyed watching this video. Good information from an interesting person.
Great video! Very informative! Time to buy another LT Wright Knife!
Thanks for the video .
Really awesome/amazing outdoor knives video!!! :D
Loved this video! Thanks man!
Truly an amazing video.
I used to carry uncle Henry back in the day when they was USA made I don’t think they are anymore and the Buck knives of course but with the technology has changed and you can buy a knife that has all the bells and whistles like a squad back divers for bow drills better blade steel and gimping you guys make exactly what I’m tall about and can’t wait to try one of your blades
I think that thinner blades are becoming more popular in part because they cut food better than thicker blades which tend to split the food. I think more people use their knives in camp for food preparation than for heavier tasks.
LT made a comment toward the end that sparked my curiosity. He makes it sound like bushcrafting as an activity is fairly new. What exactly is the history of bushcrafting, and how old are each of the techniques used?
LT is the man!!
Saber grind is more versatile. That is what a lot of people learn. Scandi is a beast when it comes to wood work. When doing food prep, carving and other tasks a good high saber is the thing. Unfortunately I really had not that good experiences with LT Wright bevel grind. Not steep enough. I regrind or even reprofile every LT Wright knife I own....that is kind of disappointing. The handles are the best on the market...like the sharp spines.
just want to say THIN IS IN
Could somebody give some more info on the kydex “ retention” device on the sheath ?
Been dreaming of getting a GNS someday😁
I've always been drawn towards LT knives I've heard you folks are good kind Christians . I've been reviewing leather bound premium bibles for 5 years now and its funny cause ya see the same thing in that community as ya do this one. I always get the comments... "$200 for a bible no way I'm spending that much on a bible !!" LOL..
I do understand for most people that's expensive but, like knives ya get what ya pay for. There are lowcost ones that are like the Condor of the bible business and do look nice and work great but nothing is like owning a $150-$200 RL Allan Premium goatskin bible.
Knives are the same way, I'm guessing there is nothing like owning an LT Wright knife so if ya want one like I do than we gotta save up and buy that thing. I'm guessing once ya open the box and pull that knife out in hand all those penny's saved will be well spent.
I might sale off some of my nice bible collection to get me a GNS..😂
An informative class act! -Thank you
Have a Rogue River-very nice Knife!
Just need to start making a heap more and build those stock aye LT....
Good channel!
Awesome information!
Awesome video!
I think the popularity of the thicker blades had to do with the quality of steels used back in the day, thicker steel was more popular because people sacrificed practicality for durability, now that we've got all these super steels they can have both, that's just my theory anyway.
I was going to say the very same thing. The super steels they have today is way better than just 10 years ago as well as the heat treating process gets better with each year that passes. The heat treat process is quite possibly more important than the super steel itself, or in other words you can ruin a nice piece of super steel if you don't have the heat treat done properly. Now you can get away with thin blades and that makes knives much more cut/user friendly.
I make knives of every kind of steel you can imagine, and let me be the first to say that people put way too much emphasis on steel type. Geometry is what makes a knife work or not work. A great design made from basic 1075 steel will run rings around a poorly designed knife made from the latest super steel. Proper heat treat will get the most out of your steel. What steel type does is emphasize some trait that you are after, but like anything else in life it is a compromise. As far as geometry, thickness is a huge part of that and thicker knives simply cut like crap. The first thing you need to determine is whether you want a knife that slices or chops. Something in the middle will do both, but do neither very well. I think a big reason for the really thick bushcraft knives is that they got popular about the same time as tactical knives began to get popular. I lost count of how many tactical knives were more of a sharpened pry bar, because they aren't worth crap as a cutting implement. But if you want to pry and baton hard wood, then you need a blade that will stand up to that- and a second knife in your pack for more delicate cutting tasks.
I love mine!
What model knife is that @ 5:09 ?? That’s what I’m looking for, high sabre, convex edge, centered point… PLEASE someone let me know!!
That is the Gen 5 from L.T. Wright -DCA
@@knifecenter thanks Dave!
Even though the story behind these knives is very interesting I would rather buy the fifth Mora.
If only I have to choose one knife from many that I owned during the years including folding and fixed blades (Spyderco, Cold Steel etc) I would definitely take Mora Companion stainless. It is cheap but it can do anything.
The blade is perfect for hard tasks. After I chopped wood and carved spoons it was still sharp for cutting paper. But sharpening itself is so easy. Thanks to a perfect scandi grind. Didn't even have to take my Spyderco triangle for that.
I do like new knives and different designs but I can survive for the rest of my life with just one cheap Mora which these days is doing all of my kitchen work.
Nice knives, but I like full convex better.
What’s the difference in a bushcraft knife & a survival knife ?
Ooohh, a Scandi grind spear-point? TAKE MY MONEY! PLEASE!!!
i am hoping that a scandi convex mix would come out, , in other words, blending the line between scandi and the line of where the fat part starts, their is a knife sharpening pro, who loves the B.R.K. knives and he is right handed and he keeps left side of convex blade more flat for feather sticking and tight side is perfect for fiend drssing a kill. the rounded convex, he does mostly backcuts and meat practically falls of with out bade knicking into bone, then he has flater side for feathering and he know has a real survival knife
Check out the Scandivex ground knives from TOPS -DCA
Hi, anyone know the size of the ferro rod loop on the GNS sheath? I just ordered one and want a ferro rod that will fit it, I'm guessing just under 1cm diameter but I'm not sure.
3/8" diameter, but it can be stretched bigger with warm water and patience.
For me, a survival situation is every time I have to carve a spoon. Then I do everything I can to escape, to survive. That's why I carry only survival knives with me...😁
Great company to deal with the can take my money all day
i bought you patch knives, sad to say, , secondary line to convex edge was too thick, I should have went with a more expensive knife from when you were iwith blindhorse, thanks for sending me another patch knife , but same problems, I did profile, the grind was ground with strong striations and getting a better edge,the polishing did not look good with a heavy scratch striations
The two top features of an L.T. Wright knife are the sharp 90 deg. spine, and their blade thickness. The one and only advantage to a thick knife is batoning. A knife feature that is so unnecessary to the outdoorsman as to approach zero. Especially in knives of this size. In every other use of a bushcraft knife thickness is a serious detriment. In the end a bushcraft knife is the outdoorsman's utility knife, so it has to do the most things well while remaining tough. In a four to five inch knife that means 3/32 - 1/8" thickness. I can think of one high-end knife maker who would do well to incorporate these two features.
Bit of bush action
New to this brand, but I've noticed they are always or at least, seem to be out of stock. Do I need to reach out to that company or is it something that comes in waves?
Comes in waves. We actually have a shipment that should be up and available later this week -DCA
@@knifecenter Excellent! Thank you for the quick response.
Good tuff.
We called it camping back in the day.. bushcraft a word to sell people expensive gear
Looks like a bushlore
Gen3, a Kephart on steroids. My favorite.
"Bushcraft[ing]" and its associated trends have turned into a huge industry. Everyone is scrambling for their share of the pie. "Best Bushcraft Knives:" ... I guess I know what to look for now.
I'd buy 1 in a heartbeat if I could afford it
I love bushcraft knife. Machete.but I I have no money
I prefer a thicker knife. Durability is life or death when you really need it.
you think a thicker knife = more durability ? you must be the guy that "feathersticks" then uses his knife to "baton" ....
Bushcraft knives are to each his own. Me personally no matter the situation im in i never beat the dogshit out of any of my tools. Theres too many of these "torture tests" out there that just are not feasible to any man with half a lick of sense. If you torture your knife you dont deserve it to begin with.
"Bush craft" is what we used to call camping....
LT Wright and Joker use bonded leather for sheaths, not full-grain leather!
Inferior Bonded leather cannot be wet-formed...
Speaking for the JRE sheaths that LTWK uses, I have wet formed several and they are not bonded leather. And although I have never wet formed a Joker sheath, I have seen nothing to make me think it is not pure leather. -DCA
This guy is also a great bible scholar.
Not everyone in this world is right handed!!!!
I just got my 1st LT Wright knife... Im not a NEWBIE in knife forum... been using, handling, collecting knives way before the "bushcraft" craze became chic... I bought the LT Wright knife direct from LT. Wright not from secondary vendor. I will say Im highly disappointed in the finish on the blade
( pocks, water marks, inconsistancy on blade finish ) & handle finish.... It appears to me that the blade may have been a "2nd" & was attempted to be passed off as a knife that passed all the QC ( quality control ) checks...
Now after seeing the finish on blade it makes me question the heat treat as well... I dont want my $ back, not looking to get anything gratis just want to tell Mr. LT. Wright to deliver what he promised on this video....