Solar Furnace Solar Air Heater Vented Soffit Tips advice from a professional How to build DIY

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
  • Solar Furnace solar air heater, vented soffit tips advice from a pro
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    Solar air heating is a solar thermal technology in which the energy from the sun, solar insolation, is captured by an absorbing medium and used to heat air.[1] Solar air heating is a renewable energy heating technology used to heat or condition air for buildings or process heat applications. It is typically the most cost-effective out of all the solar technologies, especially in commercial and industrial applications, and it addresses the largest usage of building energy in heating climates, which is space heating and industrial process heating.
    Solar air collectors can be commonly divided into two categories:[2]
    Unglazed Air Collectors or Transpired Solar Collector (used primarily to heat ambient air in commercial, industrial, agriculture and process applications)
    Glazed Solar Collectors (recirculating types that are usually used for space heating)
    Functioning in a similar manner as a conventional forced air furnace, systems provide heat by recirculating conditioned building air through solar collectors - Solar thermal collectors. Through the use of an energy collecting surface to absorb the sun's thermal energy, and ducting air to come in contact with it, a simple and effective collector can be made for a variety of air conditioning and process applications.
    SPF Solar Air Heat Collector
    A simple solar air collector consists of an absorber material, sometimes having a selective surface, to capture radiation from the sun and transfers this thermal energy to air via conduction heat transfer. This heated air is then ducted to the building space or to the process area where the heated air is used for space heating or process heating needs.
    Collector types[edit]
    Due to varying air-ducting methods, collectors are commonly classified as one of three types:
    a) through-pass collectors,
    b) front-pass,
    c) back pass,
    d) combination front and back pass collectors.

ความคิดเห็น • 37

  • @tonybloomfield5635
    @tonybloomfield5635 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    10:00 This part of the video is the most important part. Having a box full of hot air is one thing. The efficiency in making use of that hot air is the actual end game and very well explained here.

  • @redpiper1
    @redpiper1 9 ปีที่แล้ว +18

    As a glazer by profession I'm interested in understanding why you went with Low E glass as it blocks much of the UV rays from passing through the insulated unit. As an example, in my home I used Andersen low E windows and there's almost no temperature difference between a sunny section of the carpet vs. A shady spot. Also, as far as using pressure treated lumber how are you getting around the pretty toxic off-gassing of the wood through the system into your home ? Thanks and looking forward to a reply as I found your system pretty well done.

    • @cheekybastard99
      @cheekybastard99 ปีที่แล้ว

      Perhaps he exposed the coating to the inside to trap energy? Presuming of course that's how it works?

  • @dsdsmitty2
    @dsdsmitty2 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I think you're right about the static temperature of what a lot of these videos show 180F at the exit is great but, I would believe that the true test of how well these solar heaters work would be a comparison of heating bills prior to and after installing these on your home. If they work as planned there should be a visible difference in heating bills. I know, I know, seasons vary, it could be a warmer winter, etc. etc. but for the time and effort of making these and all the fuss about output, there has to be a measurable difference in heating costs.

  • @rayg436
    @rayg436 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I agree with your statement about the system having to be insulated but don't forget the vapor barrier. if you are in a cold climate water vapor will permeate the insulation and render it useless. as you said water will transfer heat better than air. wet insulation will pull the heat away from your system. due point temp. is when water vapor condenses.

  • @chrisniner8772
    @chrisniner8772 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    If it is 150+ degrees inside the panel, it is much too hot, you need to move more air (or water) through it... a delta of 10-15 degrees is all that should be allowed....otherwise, the panel is re-radiating much of the heat right back out through the glass. Oh, and I am 21 years off grid and a graduate of the school of hard knocks.

  • @powerwagon3731
    @powerwagon3731 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Awesome information! I live in the Colorado mountains at about 8200 ft elevation and we get get about 300 days of bright sun. I heat our house and small shop 90 % with wood stoves but I want to try some solar heat and pv electric experiments on the shop this winter. Thank You for the excellent tutorial.

    • @agn855
      @agn855 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Think about to add an HRV device as well, as fresh air is heating better (and healthy breathing isn't another aspect that shouldn't be ignored ;o)

  • @8ank3r
    @8ank3r 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Best informative vid I've seen. Thanks. How does this soffit type stack up against a serpentine configuration?

  • @micsr247
    @micsr247 11 ปีที่แล้ว

    Very nice video as soon as I can get some glass I will make my collector.

    • @lindaglover7194
      @lindaglover7194 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Go on Craigslist . People get rid of shower sliding door all the time

  • @uncleeddie5813
    @uncleeddie5813 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    It's low e glass. Slight tinting is what you see. What you actually get in high blocking regardless. X2 pains. Better off with one sheet of non e glass. Use absorption panel without holes. That way your not forcing air against glass. All heat will stay on backside of heat panel

    • @TriggerTube243
      @TriggerTube243 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Morning. I believe you want to have the least amount of air moving against the glass to reduce the amount of heat loss.

  • @alfriedar
    @alfriedar 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    I don’t know why everybody is so insistent on building with pressure- treated in depending on how it’s treated it could be highly carcinogenic I don’t necessarily know that I would want all that heated air coming into my house after it passed around the treated lumber just FYI

  • @powerenergysaving
    @powerenergysaving 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    thanks for sharing this video.. it was very helpful and very satisfying.. great job.

  • @TheForceHungerGames
    @TheForceHungerGames 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    You used thermopane glazig. They isolate. That’s not what you want. You want the heat to come in. Thermopane keeps heat out.

  • @kevenskilatonyius2178
    @kevenskilatonyius2178 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    that is the best video I've seen yet great Job

  • @1funrichard
    @1funrichard 11 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Would like to know what kind of fan to use on the panel and how to hook it up to a solar charged battery, and set it to engage when the temperature in the box reaches a set temperature. Can you assist or point in the right direction please? Thank you!!!

  • @chrisniner8772
    @chrisniner8772 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    You should move your PV panels out of the shade. They work way better that way.

  • @myyardsale
    @myyardsale 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    i get the need for the box outdoor. I am curious if you think an open box frame with one side screened would generate a similar heat?

  • @carpenterfamily6198
    @carpenterfamily6198 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Here is a working example installed in barn in Idaho ( it gets cold there ) - it’s really neat as it is completely passive ( no fan )
    www.iedu.com/Solar/Panels/index.html
    Let me know what you think - I’m trying to decide which version to build.

  • @paperflight3104
    @paperflight3104 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi i have clin 18 ft is lenght and breath and hegiht is 18 ft ..i need 170 Fahrenheit hot air..is it possible with solar diy heather..clin is for tobbaco

  • @swilliams140
    @swilliams140 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    I'm not sure how it would be vented into the house. I live in the a far North. What is the most practical method to send hot air indoors?
    Cut holes in an exterior wall?

    • @TriggerTube243
      @TriggerTube243 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      if you have a basement window facing the south exposure. I'd put both the intake and discharge through the window well. Make the runs as short as possible and very well insulated.. you can't over insulate this project..

  • @flyingpants
    @flyingpants 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Amazingly, none of the solar air guys state HOW MUCH HEAT IT GENERATES. There is ONE factor that matters: how much does your gas bill go down? If it goes down by $2, this is a waste of time. If it goes down by $10-20 per month or much more, then yes that may be worth it.

    • @NJRenewableEnergy
      @NJRenewableEnergy  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Its a good point. That said, these things are super cheap to build. The return on investment could be hours when you use crap you have in your garage and attic.

    • @Milanesa2010
      @Milanesa2010 5 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      If the thing runs for hours during the day and your home is well insulated, you'll come home after work to a very nice warm house. Your gas/electric heat might not run until way later.

  • @softmetals3702
    @softmetals3702 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    does it actually heat the room thats worth all this?

    • @NJRenewableEnergy
      @NJRenewableEnergy  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      If done properly, with enough square footage collector, insulated properly and a system that closes vents when not in use.. Yes

  • @gregorybaur3097
    @gregorybaur3097 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    No sound.

  • @dhermitmorse
    @dhermitmorse 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    That is not what a furnace is.

  • @JulioZendejas
    @JulioZendejas 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    I’m bummed out 😞 (that you’re married) he he he 🤣 Great video, but you’re too nerdy 🤓 for everyday people to get their own system up & running, that being said...Thank You! 😘❤️ 🤓