When I did one of mine I chucked a ball bearing near the front and bored a shallow pocket into the face of the jaws after truing them up. This holds a ring for grinding and gives me a nice fixture for facing thin washer and spacers. Thanks for demonstrating physics and cause & effect - something I see lacking in many videos and methods. Merry Christmas!
I wish I had you as a teacher in my younger machining days. At 60, I basically had to learn things the hard way....lol. I love your style. Keep up the craft......From Dallas
This explains why I was having problem grinding the jaws. I am a REAL newcomer to machining and enjoy the reasons why things are done the way they are done. I am learning a lot from your channel. Merry Christmas
Joe, you're exactly right on the proper way to load and grind chuck jaws. My chuck has two piece jaws and I've used the plate with three pins with good success. The three pins are sized to fit inside the hex of the lower cap screws. Thanks for making this often misunderstood solution so clear.
Thanks for watching. It bugs me when I see other channels lead guys astray and leave them hanging. That plate thing is awesome. I have an idea for another way I may soon disclose. Maybe!!
Another topic that was explained in a clear and concise manner which is easy for anyone to comprehend. Nice work Joe! Thank you for your willingness to share your knowledge as well as the time and energy that you invest in doing so. You are very much appreciated.
The youth are doing well. We have both boys and girls age 5 on up and you would be amazed by the interest the young ones and especially the girls show in machining and simply making things in general, whereas it seems the older ones take a little while to get into that aspect of the project.
Hey Brad. Its good to have a full arsenal of details. I think it helps solve problems they cause if your aware of them. Hows the heat in your new shop holding up?
I ground my three chuck jaws while spinning the lathe at high speed. Centrifugal force acted on the jaws in a way similar to the force of a part against the jaws as they are tightened. This gave excellent results. Thanks for the informative videos.
Thanks Joe. Another great tip. I thank you for your efforts to share your vast knowledge. It helps immensely. Your presentation methods are spot on. Your dialogue is precise and to the point. It’s also fantastic that you take the time to not just talk about the subject, but you demonstrate in in a real setting, on pertinent equipment. Thanks for taking time out of your busy schedule to share.
Merry Christmas to you and yours. If this channel had started sooner it would already be in the big 10 of machine shop channels (as indicated by subscribers). The other guys can give you a high school diploma in machining but Joe Pi can give you a PHD. I forgot to mention that I have seen the ring around the chuck thing before several times and it always left me with that uncomfortable feeling that something was being done backwards but who am I to question the experts.
And Four Jaw Chucks do all of the same things. One reason where possible I much prefer collets if possible. Although I realize that is not an option for most shops over a certain size.
Another thing I hadn't thought about. Like so many things, obvious when you think about it ( or someone else tells you ). I have to admit to the ring at the back of the jaws in the past but now I'm converted. Fortunately it is very hard to forget information like this, so thank you for another useful video. Merry Christmas and a happy new year ( with more videos! )
Just like a spinning, 3-jaw vise: don't clamp just on one side. On a hobby lathe/mill/drill several years ago, I was making a spacer to mount a QCTP. I had some 1 1/2" stock to use up. Drilled the through hole, very happy...until I pulled it out of the chuck and the exit hole on this 4" long piece was over 0.250 off center. Took me quite awhile to trace that the scroll had literally bent in that spot (thanks Hercules) for the one jaw. I may still have that work piece. If I can find it, I'll email you a photo.
I like your videos better than any of the others I have found here because I always learn something of value. That being said, would you be able to give an actual demonstration of how to grind the jaws?
Hey Joe, I'm sure you've heard this a thousand times, but I really appreciate you sharing this kind of information with me anyway, as I've always been the "why" guy! Why does it do this, Why does it do that? Your explanation on the results of what will happen based on setup makes total sense to me! Now when I get ready to grind my jaws, they should turn out a lot closer than what other's have posted!! Merry Christmas to you and your family! Razor!
Once again, fantastic vid, very clear and concise, thanks so much for your time you put into these tutorial vids. #1 on my YT list of machining tips vids, thanks Joe.
First up Joe.... Merry Christmas to you and your s. Excellent video. As a newbie to machining, I had this same problem with the 3 jaw chuck. whereby I could not get consistent results. After a tool and die maker told me the same thing as you just explained, by supporting the back of the chuck, made all the difference in the world. The smaller parts were always the worst. Thanks again for the video
Just went out and checked my jaw movement, it is .0008-8/10ths front and back. I never could figure out why people were loading jaws out and not in, I thought I was missing something. Thanks for showing people this.
Joe i have 16 die grinders cr,ir ,aircat ,blue point,eagle and 1 snap-on, the snap-on has been sent in twice both time's for bearings the first time it didn't run for a hour second time it was bad out of the box so i disassembled, the bearings were from china and of very poor quality , snap-on was going to send it back for repairs i opted to replace the bearings myself and so far it is still working FYI . HAPPY HOLIDAYS and thank you for the informative teaching video's
Great Video Joe. I am getting closer to having a look at my lathe three jaw chuck, (need to finish the internal grinding attachment) this is the direction I am planning to go. However I have one more twist to the tale and if I am correct I think a can negate almost 100% of the pitfalls in this process. I will keep you posted if you are interested. Cheers from John, Australia.
Merry Christmas, Joe! Thanks for the master's lesson from your wealth of knowledge. Yours is the most logical, concise insight into jaw grinding that I've ever seen or read. The practical demo really drives home the classroom explanation. It's always a pleasure to view your videos.
Joe, Merry Christmas to you and yours, good to see you bring up the " spider" which I always used 40 or so years ago, l'm glad you are passing good info. to the machinists. john
Hi John. I lost my Father back in 2001. he was a brilliant electronic engineer. When he passed, I thought what a shame it was that he took so much valuable knowledge with him that will never be spoken. This TH-cam contribution is small, but I hope it helps the guys that need it. Old School Rocks ! Thanks for the comment.
Hi Joe, another good video. Have watched it a couple of times to try and understand the purpose of the spider and how to use it. Any further info/ a short video explanation would be greatly received. Andy
Thanks! joe. Hope your Christmas is marry. I made a chuck concentricity collet (from your other video) worked very well. Thanks for the plans also have been gathering aluminum to make two of them, one for my dad and one for myself. Thanks for the myth busting.
Merry Christmas and a happy and prosperous new year , Thanks you for the informative videos this year please keep them coming . Yours from the other side of the pond Nick
Merry Christmas, many excellent points in this video. I would like to touch on a few more points sometime on this based on my experiences. Keep the vids coming, I enjoy!
Very Informative. Thank you for the continued uploads Joe! In the future can you kindly do a video on how to offset a 4 jaw chuck to create holes on center., as well as how to find the center of an already created hole with a dial test indicator.
Computer engineer here, and very amateur machinist. Lathe only, at the local makerspace... This is actually the jaw movement I'd expect. There's always some flex in the movable (and fixed!) jaws of a bench vise, I wouldn't expect lathe chuck jaws to be any different. Everything can bend, just like every circuit has parasitic resistances, inductances, and capacitances! Everything also changes size with temperature, so if you're trying for extremely high precision (submicron lapped surfaces) you'll need to keep the temperature constant. I'm sure there are other parasitic effects out there, but I don't know how relevant they'll be for most machining.
Very interesting demonstration. Definitely something I'm going to test on my chuck jaws. Hope you and your family have a very merry xams! Thanks for sharing neighbor
This is awesome I was just thinking this very thing because I found a metal ring that would be perfect that I made a long time ago and then I thought there's going to be wiggle in the opposite direction and then I sit down and this is the first video I see you after that
Yes, I agree completely. Please, what are your techniques on 4 jaw chuck truing? Thanks for sharing your expertise, I always find it clean, precise, and never boring.
Great tip! I have watched many channels. some techniques are good, others aren't worth wasting the brain space. I like your channel, I just barely found it.
I spring my jaws from the front with a Delrin rod and hot glue the jaws in place. after the glue sets i remove the rod and then grind. All the best in the New Year! CHEERS
Well, and if you tension the jaw in the opening direction, you're also bearing against the opposite side of the scroll. If you're confident that your scroll is absolutely perfect, with no wear at all, no problem.
Your Good !!! Nice video Sir I'd like to see a video on leveling the table/frame And a video on setting up the tailstock. LIKE I'VE SAID MANY TIMES BEFORE TO PEOPLE YOU CAN'T ADJUST WHAT'S WORN OUT !! but that's just me. ALL THE BEST TO YOU AND YOURS SIR.
Hey Joe, Excellent educational video as always! It is great to learn the WHY along with the HOW. Your channel has busted several myths for me. I've seen others use a hex nut with bolts every other flat section as a spider. Where can I find the steel ring that you use?
One thing worth mentioning is, clamping force. All for not if you're not using the same clamping force for the truing as you are for actual part turning. Likewise, the top jaw mounting screw torque should be checked, corrected and replicated when removing/replacing jaws. Also a good idea to true at or near the critical speed (jaw & chuck assembly) due to centrifugal forces, which cause the jaws to lose some of their clamping force at high speeds.
@@joepie221 Full true. Hard to replicate as in CNC, due you never get it in the same clamping force again. +- few % do its thous. Big parts always live their own life =)
Did see where a tube, 30 mm, was put into a chuck, long enough to fit the entire jaw grab. The jaws were welded to the chuck body. The tube was bored out, the jaws ground to parallel, the welds cut away, chuck and jaws returned to original. Result was far better to before. So, did it to my old chuck, same results. Don't overdo the welding, what you do has to be removed.
Yes, the cutting tool is diamond shaped on end and held in a tangential holder. Because the cutting point is so well supported and a good rake and relief is found on all sides, you can do various cutting and facing operations without changing the tool or it's angle to the workpiece. At least that is the theory. It certainly makes sense, but I'd like to hear what you have to say about it. Thanks.
No..Joe. Look up "Eccentric Engineering" on the Web. It's an outfit, based in Australia that sells the tangential tool holders (brand name for it is Diamond Tool Holder). The lathe tool bit (either square or round shank) is held vertically rather than horizontally - in other words parallel to what would be the Y axis in a lathe, not the X axis. I bought three of their holders, but haven't had a chance to use them.
Actually not. Grinding jaws outside the chuck body can make them worse. They should installed and loaded like an actual grip scenario for the best results.
I've always cut a taper in soft jaws on a cnc. When preparing a second op I always give my jaws a fresh skim, clamp the part at the pressure I'm going to use and check with a .001-.0005 feeler shim. One of the older guys dykems his part to verify solid contact. I only ever ran one engine lathe where we used soft jaws and they were less there to clamp the part and more there to center it for keeping it concentric while we finished it, and the pie jaws only had a .1 depth and we drove the part to the chuck with the tail stock. So whats your opinion on a longer part where you are clamping completely through the jaws? It will still deflect the jaw and can cause damage on the surface of softer materials like aluminum? I'm sure its tougher to get a small taper to cut than on a cnc.
use pads/shims on the clearence angle on the jaws as far out as you can get them then bore or grind them true . I did i on a 4 jaw that would not hold a part perp. Just indicate the outside of the jaw
Joe, your opinion on this: yes jaws do splay out but It's only a problem when the workpiece goes someway into the grip region of the jaws because the splaying out means that area of the workpiece that comes out does not receive proper grip and may therefore wobble a little. The splaying effect doesn't matter with small workpieces because they get full grip even so. My answer re. jaw grinding is place smooth round bar fully into chuck, then with feelers gauges ascertain the splay effect
(cont.) Then remove the (hard) jaws from chuck, place on a gri nding m/c in such a way that the splay effect can be ground out. Return to chuck. Job done.
Thanks for yet another educating video. I have a brand new chuck but checking it up will be interesting. I wonder what the target should be for worn jaws. You can't grind the jaws to good alignment for both the cases, grabbing a long object well, the entire depth of jaw being in contact with the stock, and a short grip, only some 1/2 inch or of jaw depth being in contact with a short object. The amount of distance that the jaws "rises" will be different as well as the grinding angle in the attach of the bended jaw. What do You say?
Thats a good idea with the ring cut into the jaws Joe but if you dont want to cut the jaws a bloke called Matthew Tinker has a good alternative thats worth looking at
Nice video Joe. Did you already tried to mesure the wear of the internal chuck screw? Do you think is possible to repair it? Congratulations and a happy new year!!!
I agree with you. I asked you because the wear of the internal screw is uneven. So, when I grind my jaws, the chuck becomes ok for certain steel bar diameter and not so good for others diameters.
When I did one of mine I chucked a ball bearing near the front and bored a shallow pocket into the face of the jaws after truing them up. This holds a ring for grinding and gives me a nice fixture for facing thin washer and spacers. Thanks for demonstrating physics and cause & effect - something I see lacking in many videos and methods.
Merry Christmas!
I wish I had you as a teacher in my younger machining days. At 60, I basically had to learn things the hard way....lol. I love your style. Keep up the craft......From Dallas
Thank you
This explains why I was having problem grinding the jaws. I am a REAL newcomer to machining and enjoy the reasons why things are done the way they are done. I am learning a lot from your channel. Merry Christmas
Joe, you're exactly right on the proper way to load and grind chuck jaws. My chuck has two piece jaws and I've used the plate with three pins with good success. The three pins are sized to fit inside the hex of the lower cap screws. Thanks for making this often misunderstood solution so clear.
Thanks for watching. It bugs me when I see other channels lead guys astray and leave them hanging. That plate thing is awesome. I have an idea for another way I may soon disclose. Maybe!!
Another topic that was explained in a clear and concise manner which is easy for anyone to comprehend. Nice work Joe! Thank you for your willingness to share your knowledge as well as the time and energy that you invest in doing so. You are very much appreciated.
Hey Jeffrey, thanks for the comment. How are the boys doing?
The youth are doing well. We have both boys and girls age 5 on up and you would be amazed by the interest the young ones and especially the girls show in machining and simply making things in general, whereas it seems the older ones take a little while to get into that aspect of the project.
Thats awesome. Inspiring a young mind is something that can only end well. Way to go. Tell the girls, they rock!
Joe - you're like the machinist-detective. Love these videos, as they show us the issues. we often overlook or don't even realize.
Hey Brad. Its good to have a full arsenal of details. I think it helps solve problems they cause if your aware of them. Hows the heat in your new shop holding up?
I ground my three chuck jaws while spinning the lathe at high speed. Centrifugal force acted on the jaws in a way similar to the force of a part against the jaws as they are tightened. This gave excellent results. Thanks for the informative videos.
Thanks Joe. Another great tip. I thank you for your efforts to share your vast knowledge. It helps immensely. Your presentation methods are spot on. Your dialogue is precise and to the point. It’s also fantastic that you take the time to not just talk about the subject, but you demonstrate in in a real setting, on pertinent equipment. Thanks for taking time out of your busy schedule to share.
Thank you.
Fully agree! I really enjoy that the tips apply to basic machining operations, yet would only be discovered through much experience. Great stuff!
Alot of prep obviousely went into this video. Thank you for taking the time!
Thank you for the theory. It is always better for me to understand the theory and not just go through the motions because someone said so.
Merry Christmas to you and yours. If this channel had started sooner it would already be in the big 10 of machine shop channels (as indicated by subscribers). The other guys can give you a high school diploma in machining but Joe Pi can give you a PHD. I forgot to mention that I have seen the ring around the chuck thing before several times and it always left me with that uncomfortable feeling that something was being done backwards but who am I to question the experts.
Now, you not only know you were right, but now you know why. Trust your gut. Thank for your comment.
Well done again Joe thanks for your time really enjoy your shows.
Your whiteboard and cardboard jaws demo-brilliant!
I just happen to have giant wooden jaws laying around so I decided to use them. Glad you liked it.
And Four Jaw Chucks do all of the same things. One reason where possible I much prefer collets if possible. Although I realize that is not an option for most shops over a certain size.
Another thing I hadn't thought about. Like so many things, obvious when you think about it ( or someone else tells you ). I have to admit to the ring at the back of the jaws in the past but now I'm converted. Fortunately it is very hard to forget information like this, so thank you for another useful video.
Merry Christmas and a happy new year ( with more videos! )
Just like a spinning, 3-jaw vise: don't clamp just on one side.
On a hobby lathe/mill/drill several years ago, I was making a spacer to mount a QCTP. I had some 1 1/2" stock to use up. Drilled the through hole, very happy...until I pulled it out of the chuck and the exit hole on this 4" long piece was over 0.250 off center.
Took me quite awhile to trace that the scroll had literally bent in that spot (thanks Hercules) for the one jaw. I may still have that work piece. If I can find it, I'll email you a photo.
I like your videos better than any of the others I have found here because I always learn something of value. That being said, would you be able to give an actual demonstration of how to grind the jaws?
Hey Joe, I'm sure you've heard this a thousand times, but I really appreciate you sharing this kind of information with me anyway, as I've always been the "why" guy! Why does it do this, Why does it do that? Your explanation on the results of what will happen based on setup makes total sense to me! Now when I get ready to grind my jaws, they should turn out a lot closer than what other's have posted!! Merry Christmas to you and your family! Razor!
Once again, fantastic vid, very clear and concise, thanks so much for your time you put into these tutorial vids. #1 on my YT list of machining tips vids, thanks Joe.
Thank you.
Brilliantly explained Joe - nice demo.
First up Joe.... Merry Christmas to you and your s. Excellent video. As a newbie to machining, I had this same problem with the 3 jaw chuck. whereby I could not get consistent results. After a tool and die maker told me the same thing as you just explained, by supporting the back of the chuck, made all the difference in the world. The smaller parts were always the worst. Thanks again for the video
Thanks Joe Have a good Christmas and prosperous new year
Just went out and checked my jaw movement, it is .0008-8/10ths front and back.
I never could figure out why people were loading jaws out and not in, I thought I was missing something.
Thanks for showing people this.
Happy holidays! Learning alot from your videos. I wanted to thank you for taking the time to share your wealth of knowledge!!!
Joe i have 16 die grinders cr,ir ,aircat ,blue point,eagle and 1 snap-on, the snap-on has been sent in twice both time's for bearings the first time it didn't run for a hour second time it was bad out of the box so i disassembled, the bearings were from china and of very poor quality , snap-on was going to send it back for repairs i opted to replace the bearings myself and so far it is still working FYI . HAPPY HOLIDAYS and thank you for the informative teaching video's
Hi Joe. Thanks for the review, fear not...snap-on now owns Sioux air tools. Sioux tools make the grinder. happy Holidays to you too.
Always the straight info. Thanks again for a well thought out presentation.
Great info...Merry Christmas Joe!
Great Video Joe. I am getting closer to having a look at my lathe three jaw chuck, (need to finish the internal grinding attachment) this is the direction I am planning to go.
However I have one more twist to the tale and if I am correct I think a can negate almost 100% of the pitfalls in this process. I will keep you posted if you are interested.
Cheers from John, Australia.
Another great video, it's full of common sense solutions that many of us overlook! Merry Christmas to you and yours.
great timing on this video, I was going to tackle my Chuck over the holidays, thanks, and Merry Christmas to you and yours
Merry Christmas, Joe! Thanks for the master's lesson from your wealth of knowledge. Yours is the most logical, concise insight into jaw grinding that I've ever seen or read. The practical demo really drives home the classroom explanation.
It's always a pleasure to view your videos.
Thank you Richard.
Joe,
Merry Christmas to you and yours, good to see you bring up the " spider" which I always used 40 or so years ago, l'm glad you are passing good info. to the machinists.
john
Hi John. I lost my Father back in 2001. he was a brilliant electronic engineer. When he passed, I thought what a shame it was that he took so much valuable knowledge with him that will never be spoken. This TH-cam contribution is small, but I hope it helps the guys that need it. Old School Rocks ! Thanks for the comment.
Hi Joe, another good video. Have watched it a couple of times to try and understand the purpose of the spider and how to use it. Any further info/ a short video explanation would be greatly received.
Andy
Its used for soft jaw boring. I have had other requests for clarification and may post a video to show it. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks! joe. Hope your Christmas is marry. I made a chuck concentricity collet (from your other video) worked very well. Thanks for the plans also have been gathering aluminum to make two of them, one for my dad and one for myself. Thanks for the myth busting.
Merry Christmas and a happy and prosperous new year , Thanks you for the informative videos this year please keep them coming .
Yours from the other side of the pond
Nick
Merry Christmas, many excellent points in this video. I would like to touch on a few more points sometime on this based on my experiences. Keep the vids coming, I enjoy!
Very Informative. Thank you for the continued uploads Joe!
In the future can you kindly do a video on how to offset a 4 jaw chuck to create holes on center., as well as how to find the center of an already created hole with a dial test indicator.
th-cam.com/video/WCei5GlEZ5g/w-d-xo.html Check this one out.
Great Demo Joe. Thank you and Merry Christmas.
thanks Joe that explained the theory and practical side perfectly. Brilliant .
Thanks Joe - another Awesome video!
Another great explanation and demonstration!
Computer engineer here, and very amateur machinist. Lathe only, at the local makerspace...
This is actually the jaw movement I'd expect. There's always some flex in the movable (and fixed!) jaws of a bench vise, I wouldn't expect lathe chuck jaws to be any different. Everything can bend, just like every circuit has parasitic resistances, inductances, and capacitances! Everything also changes size with temperature, so if you're trying for extremely high precision (submicron lapped surfaces) you'll need to keep the temperature constant. I'm sure there are other parasitic effects out there, but I don't know how relevant they'll be for most machining.
Very interesting demonstration. Definitely something I'm going to test on my chuck jaws.
Hope you and your family have a very merry xams!
Thanks for sharing neighbor
Merry Christmas Neil.
Hi Joe,
Pretty busy around here for the Holidays.....
I wish to you and your family a Happy Holiday time, Pierre
Good video Joe I hope you had a Merry Christmas & all the best in the New Year.
I did. Thank you. Always good to see my kids smile.
Good information, Joe. Would like to wish you and your family Merry Christmas, and great New Year.
Informative as usual Joe. Merry Christmas from the UK
Thanks Joe for another informing video. I hope you had a nice Christmas.
Thanks for the vid, I never considered that the jaws would kick out.
very good info, thanks for the lesson.
Merry Christmas to you and yours from Norway
Hi Joe
A very nice eye-opener for small details - nice !
A Merry Xmas and a Happe New Year to you and yours too !
From
Keld in Denmark
Hello Joe, greatings from Germany, thank you very much for the excellent Videos. Merry Christmas
Merry Christmas to you and yours!
This is awesome I was just thinking this very thing because I found a metal ring that would be perfect that I made a long time ago and then I thought there's going to be wiggle in the opposite direction and then I sit down and this is the first video I see you after that
Merry Christmas, Joe!
Hi joe I would gladly work in your shop for nothing other than to gain some of your knowledge Keep up the great videos cheers from New Zealand
Great vid Joe. Thanks for posting it.
Yes, I agree completely. Please, what are your techniques on 4 jaw chuck truing?
Thanks for sharing your expertise, I always find it clean, precise, and never boring.
th-cam.com/video/WCei5GlEZ5g/w-d-xo.html This may help
I'm sorry, I was asking in the context of this video and grinding the jaws true.
very usefull info. Enjoy watching you.
Merry Christmas, Joe.
Great tips. Thanks.
John
Great tip! I have watched many channels.
some techniques are good, others aren't worth wasting the brain space. I like your channel, I just barely found it.
Thanks for the grinding tip, worked great for me.
I spring my jaws from the front with a Delrin rod and hot glue the jaws in place. after the glue sets i remove the rod and then grind. All the best in the New Year! CHEERS
How do you remove the glue?
Joe Pieczynski It comes off very easy with an X-ACTO knife.
Well, and if you tension the jaw in the opening direction, you're also bearing against the opposite side of the scroll. If you're confident that your scroll is absolutely perfect, with no wear at all, no problem.
Another excellent video! Merry Christmas!!! Chris
good lesson thanks joe ,
Your Good !!! Nice video Sir
I'd like to see a video on leveling the table/frame
And a video on setting up the tailstock. LIKE I'VE SAID MANY TIMES BEFORE TO PEOPLE YOU CAN'T ADJUST WHAT'S WORN OUT !! but that's just me. ALL THE BEST TO YOU AND YOURS SIR.
Merry Christmas right back at you Joe.
Thank you for this video, Joe. A Merry Christmas to you & yours. :-)
Hey Joe, Excellent educational video as always! It is great to learn the WHY along with the HOW. Your channel has busted several myths for me. I've seen others use a hex nut with bolts every other flat section as a spider. Where can I find the steel ring that you use?
I made it out of a piece of thick wall pipe. 3/8-16 tapped holes every 120 degrees.
Enjoy Stay upright good biking
Will
Happy Holidays Joe , all the best for the new year
Nice bit of teaching. I've got a lot to learn!
There is endless material. I'm still learning.
Thanks Joe Keep the videos coming!!
One thing worth mentioning is, clamping force. All for not if you're not using the same clamping force for the truing as you are for actual part turning. Likewise, the top jaw mounting screw torque should be checked, corrected and replicated when removing/replacing jaws.
Also a good idea to true at or near the critical speed (jaw & chuck assembly) due to centrifugal forces, which cause the jaws to lose some of their clamping force at high speeds.
Very true with CNC lathes and big parts.
@@joepie221 Full true. Hard to replicate as in CNC, due you never get it in the same clamping force again. +- few % do its thous. Big parts always live their own life =)
Merry Christmas Joe to you and all you hold dear and a Happy New Year
And a Merry Christmas to you too.
Did see where a tube, 30 mm, was put into a chuck, long enough to fit the entire jaw grab. The jaws were welded to the chuck body. The tube was bored out, the jaws ground to parallel, the welds cut away, chuck and jaws returned to original. Result was far better to before. So, did it to my old chuck, same results. Don't overdo the welding, what you do has to be removed.
thanks Joe, merry Christmas!
Thanks Joe! Deck the Halls with Holly! Cheers!
Merry Christmas Joe to you and your family
another great video. merry christmas.
Fred from the U.K.
This is why I love using collets when possible.
Collets are almost always preferred as they also don't lose as much gripping force due to the rotation of the chuck.
Good stuff. For a future segment, I'd like to see your take on tangential tools such as the diamond tool holder and bits.
Insert tooling?
Yes, the cutting tool is diamond shaped on end and held in a tangential holder. Because the cutting point is so well supported and a good rake and relief is found on all sides, you can do various cutting and facing operations without changing the tool or it's angle to the workpiece. At least that is the theory. It certainly makes sense, but I'd like to hear what you have to say about it. Thanks.
No..Joe. Look up "Eccentric Engineering" on the Web. It's an outfit, based in Australia that sells the tangential tool holders (brand name for it is Diamond Tool Holder). The lathe tool bit (either square or round shank) is held vertically rather than horizontally - in other words parallel to what would be the Y axis in a lathe, not the X axis. I bought three of their holders, but haven't had a chance to use them.
Thanks Joe for replying to my query.
Anytime.
great info Joe merry Christmas
Good info. Merry Christmas
Then remove the jaws and place on a grinding m/c in such a way
that the 'splay' can be ground out. Return jaws to chuck. Job done.
Actually not. Grinding jaws outside the chuck body can make them worse. They should installed and loaded like an actual grip scenario for the best results.
Merry Christmas Joe !
I've always cut a taper in soft jaws on a cnc. When preparing a second op I always give my jaws a fresh skim, clamp the part at the pressure I'm going to use and check with a .001-.0005 feeler shim. One of the older guys dykems his part to verify solid contact. I only ever ran one engine lathe where we used soft jaws and they were less there to clamp the part and more there to center it for keeping it concentric while we finished it, and the pie jaws only had a .1 depth and we drove the part to the chuck with the tail stock.
So whats your opinion on a longer part where you are clamping completely through the jaws? It will still deflect the jaw and can cause damage on the surface of softer materials like aluminum? I'm sure its tougher to get a small taper to cut than on a cnc.
Thanks Joe Merry Christmas
Insightful as always. thank you.
use pads/shims on the clearence angle on the jaws as far out as you can get them then bore or grind them true . I did i on a 4 jaw that would not hold a part perp. Just indicate the outside of the jaw
certainly something to think about
Joe, your opinion on this: yes jaws do splay out but It's only a problem when the workpiece goes someway into the grip region of the jaws because the splaying out means that area of the workpiece that comes out does not receive proper grip and may therefore wobble a little. The splaying effect doesn't matter with small workpieces because they get full grip even so. My answer re. jaw grinding is place smooth round bar fully into chuck, then with feelers gauges ascertain the splay effect
(cont.) Then remove the (hard) jaws from chuck, place on a gri nding m/c in such a way that the splay effect can be ground out. Return to chuck. Job done.
Thanks for yet another educating video. I have a brand new chuck but checking it up will be interesting.
I wonder what the target should be for worn jaws. You can't grind the jaws to good alignment for both the cases, grabbing a long object well, the entire depth of jaw being in contact with the stock, and a short grip, only some 1/2 inch or of jaw depth being in contact with a short object. The amount of distance that the jaws "rises" will be different as well as the grinding angle in the attach of the bended jaw. What do You say?
GREAT VIDEO !!!
Thats a good idea with the ring cut into the jaws Joe but if you dont want to cut the jaws a bloke called Matthew Tinker has a good alternative thats worth looking at
Nice video Joe. Did you already tried to mesure the wear of the internal chuck screw? Do you think is possible to repair it? Congratulations and a happy new year!!!
The scroll is not what causes this. Its the jaw and chuck jaw channel wear. If the scroll was worn, I would think a new one would be your best bet.
I agree with you. I asked you because the wear of the internal screw is uneven. So, when I grind my jaws, the chuck becomes ok for certain steel bar diameter and not so good for others diameters.