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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ก.ย. 2017
- If you own or planning to get a Chinese 6040 CNC or a similar model ( 3020, 3040, 6090) then this could help you improve the rigidity of the Z axis and gantry
I change a thin aluminium plate for a 1/2" thick on the gantry to fix the slight bend on my linear rods and then attach a small linear rail to the back of the gantry to improve the rigidity of the Z-axis
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Nice idea. I am building my own CNC mill and have a similar problem. I may try to incorporate a similar fix.
Yeah I'm starting to build my own 3 axis cnc router, but taking longer because I don't have to much time at the moment
You have made some really nice stuff with that cnc. I cant believe it can flex as much as i did. That little amount can make a very big difference.
John Leonard yes, to prevent it from giving me a bad finish I had to go slower and cut less, the deeper I try to cut the more force I put and the more it could flex
nice can you do a tutorial about Touch Plate to Auto-Zero all the step
Faissal zin sure I'll try to make it
Would love to see this aswell
thank you what do you think about cnc 6040 is it good
Hi, sorry to bother you, but did your cnc work ok from setup? I have just bought a cnc 6040 from China and am having problems with the stepper motors. They work fine using the arrow keys on my keyboard. but when I add a Gcode (roadrunner) and run, the stepper motors hardly move and make a horible noise, and the Gcode looks to be running fast and I have to stop it. My computer has onboard parellel port and is running windows 7 pro. No matter what I do I can't get it to work using Gcode. I just wondered if you had any ides? it would be really appreciated. Thanks, Terry.
Wrighty hi Terry. I actually got just the frame and I added my own controller and steppers.
But what I think is happening is that the run runner is a super fast Gcode and your steppers are staling. I would suggest trying a different Gcode (slower one)
The other thing it could be that the run runner Gcode is in inches and maybe your cnc is set to MM?
Hi, Thank you for the quick reply. That makes a lot of sense. If I switch the cnc mack 3 program back to inches just to try and run it again, that should tell me if it's one of the problems. is that right? Thanks, Terry.
Wrighty well you don’t want to drive that. Since you will need to set the steps and tune your steppers again but in inches this time.
I would suggest making a easy slow Gcode of something and try it first
Wrighty what’s your steps and acceleration and speed set to?
Hi. I have it setup as they told me to. all my settings are the same as in this video: th-cam.com/video/0mlfccAVUP4/w-d-xo.html it might be quicker for you to have a look at this than me trying to tell you. Thank you for your time. Terry.
You should make a video, if you haven't already, of the CNC machine you built. Great job.
I don’t have any recent video of those CNC machines but there is 1 or 2 video I made in the pass showing the CNC machines I build
Hi Rad,
First I want to say that I really appreciate you taking the time to do this video. One thing I wanted to point out for anyone watching that wants to measure what you are measuring is this: the measurement tool attached to your spindle is a dial indicator, not a digital caliper. I'm guessing you probably already know this and you just misspoke. For anyone interested, I haven't had a chance to fully test it yet, but so far I'm happy with this one:
www.amazon.com/Clockwise-Tools-DIGR-0055-Electronic-Conversion/dp/B01G9K7KCK/ref=sr_1_20_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1511513914&sr=8-20-spons&keywords=depth+indicator&psc=1
It's very cheap. I noticed you're using a Pittsburgh one which was probably more expensive.
Secondly, the idea you had of putting the linear rail on the back is very clever. The way you did it, you were able to go cheap and only have to buy one linear rail while still attaining the increased rigidity. That's great because linear rails are very expensive. However, there are a few things I want to say about that, too:
1. If I were mounting the linear rail as you did, I would have mounted it to the top of the back of the X axis. Putting it at the top will allow for a shorter support block (the aluminum piece you machined to attach the linear bearing to the spindle assembly/z-axis). The shorter support block and closer proximity of the rail to the fixed point on the spindle will reduce the torque on the rail due to the shorter lever arm. In addition, it will decrease the effects of any non-parallelism between the linear rail and the x axis itself.
2. In the video, you didn't say whether or not you were careful to maintain perfect parallelism between the linear rail and the back plate of the X axis. If you did not or could not guarantee that the linear rail is parallel to the movement of the X axis, doing so may improve the performance across the whole range and also increase the life time of the linear rail and bearing. Linear bearings are not designed to support much non-parallelism without significant wear, so I would definitely check to make sure the X-axis rods and the linear bearing are parallel. They are designed to handle large dynamic forces perpendicular to the axis of motion, but I think that gets worse if you have a static/constant load on them, which you would if they were rotated slightly from the X axis. This is not an easy thing to do but it might be worth it. At the very least it would make the linear rail/bearing wear more evenly.
3. To further increase your X axis rigidity as well as your Z axis rigidity, I would add one more linear bearing to the rail (you can buy them separately). Then, machine a wider piece of aluminum for the Z-axis/spindle assembly so that it can attach to both linear bearings, and so that it can connect to a wider section of the spindle assembly. Have you measured the X-Z plane rotation of the spindle? If you have problems with that, it would probably improve that as well. I can't tell from looking at the video, but you might not even lose any X travel capability with two bearings. It looks like your rail extends beyond the limits of your work area.
4. You're probably right about the cylindrical bearings being a part of the rigidity. That's certainly possible. Hourglass profile linear bearings (what you mounted to the back) are definitely way better for this. Another commentor (Kenny) mentioned that deflection forces could also affect the Y axis (forward/backward in my point of reference), and that's a good point, too. You could measure this by attaching a straight edge to the X axis supports (and thereby disconnect from the y axis gantry drive rods/screws) and then indicating against that edge the same way you did in this video. That would remove play in the y axis from the equation and tell you more about your spindle rigidity with respect to the X axis, which is the problem you're trying to solve here.
I'm pretty new to machining as well, so I may be incorrect about some of what I've said. From what I've learned, it's really difficult to measure and improve parallelism, rigidity, etc. Your video was helpful in that it made me consider things I hadn't thought of before. Thanks again! By the way, don't worry about saying "you know." It's a natural thing that everybody does. To help with that, you could write out a script or bullet points for your videos before hand and use it as a reference (just don't read it out loud exactly). That might help.
Good luck to you and thanks for sharing your experience! Please keep posting!
When you push the spindle back and forth (with your hand pressure), the whole rail is connected to those vertical side guides, right? So part of the deviation you get could be due to that side of the machine too right? I'm still a newbie at this sort of thing, but just trying to think of where all the sources of movement could come from. Good video you made. I think I will need to go down the same path to fix up rigidity in my 3040.
Kenny yes the main problem is that there is no support on the Z or X axis rails, if you actually see the bottom rail are supported but the other 2 axis are floating, so that's the weak points but overall the machine it's alright
Thanks for your time and reply. Your video definitely showed important things for us to focus on. I wish those folks that designed these machines took a bit more effort to put in some more solid pieces of metal. I think I'll go the same way and get a more solid cross-piece. Thanks for showing highlighting those weak links in this line of CNC models. Genuinely appreciated.
Kenny when I bought mine I didn't know anything about cnc after a year or two I found this 6040 cnc that's actually has linear rails and overall fixes all the problems
www.omiocnc.com/x4-800l-usb-cnc-desktop-engraver.html
Wow!!! Thanks for that link Rad. I one certainly does look good. The nice thing is you identified potential issues in your system and improved the situation very significantly. Your video will show a lot of people what to look out for, and how to sort things out. Thanks once again.
Excellent upgrades. I just bought a 6040 and it looked like it had the liner rails on the gantry but it did not. Mine moves just the same. Where did you get the rails and that gauge that you are using? It seems you made a great improvement with the overall rigidity of the machine which will greatly improve the accuracy of your cuts. One more question, The motor mounts seem to be made of metal. Did were they included with the machine or did you add them. I see you bought this over a year ago. How is it holding up? Thanks.
Gary G I got the linear rail from eBay. I believe it’s a 15mm rail and yes it improved on rigidity. Still has some play but it’s better.
I actually build my own cnc and now my 6040 is just collecting dust, but without it I wouldn’t have learn a lot of things
this is so smart idea !!
Thanks. You know ;)
im planning to completely revamp mine with flat linear rails , and a massive connection across the gantry.. im thinking concrete filled 4 by4 steel.
Rob M might as well build a complete new cnc
@@radikult-custom i was thinking the same thing.. With all 4 linear rails ( 200 bux ) and the 2 by 6 beam plus concrete plus all that drilling and tapping.. I could just start fresh with a epoxy granite base .
Rob M I would love to see the progress. I’m actually build another cnc and maybe I’ll try to make an epoxy base
@@radikult-custom ill send a link when i get started.. im finding materials and so on.. bookmarking everything.
Your rail rods are to small in diameter to support that much weight. It is sagging under the load more in the center of travel, which drops the tool down. Only way to eliminate this is to completely redo the crossrail with quality box type linear slides mounted on a 1.0 thick aluminum plate. And reposition the Z axis slide as close as possible to the rail.
Hi, i was just looking to this video and one idea crossed my mind. Have you ever thinking about putting that thick plate of aluminium on the back side instead ? This way you could attach on the plate some 20mm fully supported linear rod rails horizontally with the bearing blocks attached opposite on the plate which holds the X axis ball screw nut ( obviously with the required adjustments ). I am planning to buy one of these machines and this is the improvement i want to do. Idont know if could be used 16mm linear rails instead of 20mm because they are supported ones but even so, 20mm means nothing but more rigidity. If i am wrong, please somebody correct me.
Cheers.
Ionut Popa yes that can work, but at the end you “rebuilding” the whole cnc, there is a company that’s makes 6040 that have linear rails and it’s a much better cnc overall
www.omiocnc.com/products.html
But you have to select the ones with the linear rails
where can we get parts for these. I could do with replacing the Z gantry to fit a new spindle better
FoxyBingo I found the parts on eBay
Very informative video. I would bet if you you performed the same test on some of the larger more expensive machines they would be as bad or worse. I will try this with my 3040. I would think the shorter X axis span would make the 3040 more rigid.
Clayton Musgrove the main problem with the 6040 cnc is the rails have no back support, if they would add the same type of linear rails as on the Y then it would be more rigid
Probably the 3040 could be more rigid because of the short travel
I would like for you to consider whether or not that flex actually makes a difference in the finished cut. My first thought would be to assume it would. Your gantry would flex more near the center and less towards the edges. Even if you have some flex you still have a spring action downward force on your cutting tool. Because you have .020 flex doesn't mean your cut will be off that much. Just saying I would like to have seen the same test done on a piece of material milled before and after your improvements. Many thumbs up for making me think about this!
I think the one of main reason there is that much flex is because the rails this thing glides on are placed far too low underneath the bed. If you see more modern machines the rails are actually on the same level as cutting head. I'm wondering if it would be possible to heavily modify this machine by raising those linear rails up and outwards somehow.
Eugen Krause well the rail on the x-axis are just 2 round rods and not back support, so that adds to the lower rails too, they make a 6040 cnc with linear rails with fixes all the problem but cost more too and I didn’t know anything about cnc when I got this cnc
So you would not recommend some one else to buy it? I'm looking at what to buy for my first machine right now, and I can't decide. If I did get this I would have to do a lot of modding I think, but I love the fact I can get a 3020 with ball screws and linear rails for $480, but no electronics. I would rather buy my own anyways, since I hear some of the Chinese ones are pretty bad.
Hi may I know what is the profile of d linear rail ?hiwin Hg25 ?
Joey Tan it's a 550mm length and it's a miniature 15mm linear rail
Radikult oh .. OK thank you so much .. Your video is helpful ..
Yolo :)
5:42 What size are these motors, dude?
nanocastmanutd they are nema 23 300oz
Thank you
i know
100 times even
Petros Makris I know you know, hope he forgets that sentance, you know
In fact I do know
a tutorial dremel cnc homemade someday (?
Nigthdaker lol. I'll be building a "home made" cnc soon but won't be a dremel / engraver
low rpm? :c
I almost made a mistake, can it be with a router?
thanks for reply, greetings from argentina =)
would love to see this.
any idea on the frame style ?
will it be a cnc mill or cnc router
Milan Potter cnc router 25x25 inches, using aluminium extrusion and 1" thick side arms/Z-axis
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I am new in cnc machine. I have a 3040 china cnc with bobcad software and running in mach3. My problem is that my G-code looks ok in the measurements block in the bobcad animation, but when transferred to mach3, it ends up scaling down my mold. Does somebody know why? I Will appreciate any posible answer. Thanks in advance. OSCAR.
Karina Fuentes make sure that your drawing on bobcad if it’s MM or inches it matches the same setting on Mach3
Or maybe have you check that the steps in your motors matches the distance
Stop sying ''YOU KNOW''!! Because none of us here knows!!
So, please before you put your next video up, listen to yourself and you will know. :)
You have something to share and could be of interest to me and others, so just trying to give you a hint on how to improve your presentation.
Thanks for sharing.
Interesting video, however I don't think I've ever heard the phrase "not a lot of pressure" so many times. Could've whacked this thing down to 4 minutes as the repetition of the pressure issue was mind numbingly tedious. However, it was interesting to see some hacks to the 6040 to make it a better CNC. Looking forward to your next vid.
you know? we do not know thats why we are watching, other than those words(really annoying repeated so many times) the video is informative and helpfull, you know.
u know
I know
You know?
people are spending over 1k for a 6040 router and you have to do all this work to get it right. return the junk to the Chinese manufactures.
Probably because a good CNC can cost triple or 5+ times the cost of a Chinese CNC.
You build great CNC's, but WHY do you say "You know" so many times. For it is truly a waste of time. Think about it.
pat dee it has been pointed out to me before, and it's something I'm trying not to say now, why do I do it.. I'm not sure
I'm not trying to waste anybody's time by found so, I just can't control it but now that it's been pointed out to me I'll try to not say it (to much)
Barry Manilowa hahaha it works perfect for me compared to my dial indicator
You know?
I have a tendency to use "you know" as a fill word when doing some of my videos
+Radikult not the end of the world.