John Deere Marvel Schebler DLTX Carburetor Explained
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ก.ค. 2024
- Overview of the operation of a Marvel Schebler DLTX carburetor for John Deere letter tractors with horizontal 2 cylinder or twin cylinder engines. I try to explain the Load and Idle Circuits, where the fuel flows, and how to clean out all the passage ways. The operational theory is the same for all John Deere A carburetors, John Deere B carburetors, John Deere G carburetors, John Deere D Carburetors, and John Deere H carburetors.
Thanks for a really great instructional video!! Easy to follow and complete from start to finish!! Appreciate your videos and attention to detail!!
Glad it was helpful!
Well done Sir! This tutorial is so helpful, as I recently bought a 1951 model B, which is running roughly.
Glad it helped! Best of luck
thanks for the video. i got my D started yesterday and today i am going to clean the fuel system.
That's great
Another good video! Great explanation. Also highlights that carbs should be stored in a sealed plastic bag!
Ha! Yes, anywhere would be better than out in a grain barn on an open shelf... Well almost anywhere.
Also check that the upper throttle bushing is flush with the inside throat, so that no air can get by the throttle plate. Again, great work
Yes, you should also verify the bushings on the throttle shaft are in good condition. Vacuum leaks there can cause idle and load issues.
Very good video!! But you forgot the horizontal passage behind the brass plug at the bottom of the stem. It is part of the idle system. Plugged, it will cause the tractor to idle roughly
Great point!
I have just rebuilt DLTX 67 for my B and it wasn’t to bad I got a kit that had all the brass plugs and new screws I did have a time getting that brass tube with the holes in it out but I did take wire to all the ports and clean them out the kit also had new throttle bushings and I had to ream them because the throttle shaft was to tite. I also put a new float in it and set it they called for it to be 3/8 from the top of fuel bowl that is done but my tractor cuts out on a pull and I’m thinking the electric is grounding out in the converted magneto to a distributor now it’s got new plugs and wires
You could also check the load circuit to make sure it's set right. But spark issues will definitely cause problems too.
What is your opinion of using ultrasonic cleaner tanks instead for a carb that has been sitting unused on JD D for 10 years ?
I can't say. I've e never used an ultrasonic cleaner. But it probably wouldn't hurt to try. Let me know how it works.
@jonelsonster I just took the bowl off so it and the body would fit in nicely and used cleaning strength vinegar for about half an hour followed by many 10 minute cleaning cycles with straight water until the water was clean at end . It sure removed a lot of "dirt" and fine rust. I had pulled the load and idle screws. I figure I will give it a try on the tractor before winter. If it doesn't work I have all winter to try and watch those instructional DVD'S and use the drills and kits. Thanks
Very good video, thank you. I do have a question maybe you or one of the viewers can answer. I have a '47 B with this carb, the one in this video a DLTX67. My B is hard to start, especially after it sits for several weeks. But once it starts it runs great and I can top almost any hill here in central Pennsylvania in 5th gear. Could it be one of, or a couple of the ports could be clogged? Would that cause hard starting?
It's hard to know for sure without hearing it or seeing it. One thing to check is too make sure your fuel shut off valve at the tank isn't leaking. If it leaks slowly then the fuel will leak past the carb and into the cylinders (and the crankcase). Then every time you try to start it then it's completely flooded... And very hard to start.
Pretty certain there is no fuel bypass into the cylinders. I say that because I have a shut installed between the tank and the sediment bowl.
@@Marine-iu3ev I'm not sure if your problem is carburetion or ignition. To me it almost sounds like ignition. But, my advise is to go through the carb completely and make sure the passage ways are all clean and clear. You don't have anything to lose. Even if it doesn't fix your problem, at least you can cross it off your list as a possible contributor.
Spark plugs sometimes don’t work well. Check out the points. Maybe a bad capacitor. Check the condition of the coil. Try starting with the compression relief valves open (they are on the bottom of the engine. Be careful closing them if it starts . Hot gasses coming out of them
If you have an all fuel tractor, two fuel tanks, you might need a different carburetor. Maybe a DLTX 73
Nice video! You wouldn't have any cores you would be willing to sell would you? I need a good DLTX 71 I can go through and clean up for a 1950 A with powerblock.
I have a couple DLTX 71 carburetor bodies that are not yet rebuilt... But one has a crack in the stem. The other one might be in good shape. I'll have to check on it the next time I'm at the farm.
I assume that the process for a DLTX 53 would be similar to this one. My 41 A has the DLTX 53 on it. I want to get a complete rebuilt kit for it including the float.
Yes, all of the DLTX carbs are the same. I actually did a video of a complete overhaul of a DLTX 53 carb for our AR.
th-cam.com/video/ZeOXk6fPC30/w-d-xo.html
I go into more detail in that video.
@@jonelsonster thank you. It was pretty rusty when you started.
How many turns of the idle control and load circuit. My JD is not running smooth.
It will vary. Start with about 2. Then while running at low throttle, screw the idle adjust needle in or out until the engine sounds happy. For the load screw, you need to get someone else to get in the driver's seat, throttle the engine up, put the transmission in high gear, press both brakes hard, and slowly begin to release the clutch. This will load the engine. You have to kinda ride the clutch. But while the engine is under load, adjust the throttle until it sounds happy. You do not want to see any black smoke from the exhaust.
I'll try to make a video of the process.
That tip worked. Thanks for your response. My late father's deere is running again. The serial number badge is missing so I cannot know the exact year its built. Is there another way to tell with out this badge? I estimate it's between a 47 and 51
Start with the needles tight clockwise; then, turn each one out 1 1/2 turns out. Thats a good starting point.
Did you have to drill the holes in the gasket side to take the plugs out
There are holes in the flange of the carburetor from the factory. So no, I did not have to modify the carburetor in any way.
@@jonelsonster weird mine doesn’t have them
@@platypus1287 that's interesting. You'd think those holes would have to be there because that's how they drilled the passageways at the time the carb was manufactured. If you look on the back side of the flange, can you see anything? What model carburetor do you have?