Tip for a fast, accurate and fine tune when centering the caliper: as on disc brakes, release the center bolt, so the caliper is loose. pull hard the brake lever, then tighten the center bolt progressively so it will not affect the correct alignment.
Michael, to tune mechanical disc brakes, here is a fast and "quite accurate" way: as you may know, the way to adjust the reach of the pads, is generally with an allen key, on the inner face (like if it would be the inner piston) across the spokes. so, first you find the proper reach as you like. then you release the two adjusting bolts at the fork, so the caliper comes loose. then, you add 2-3 points to the bolt (it will close the gap). then you press hard the brake lever. then adjust both bolts. then undo the 2-3 points to the reach adjust bolt. so it will sepparate the inner pad, and it should not have any rubbing.
Frank, I am actually rather familiar with adjusting the disk brakes on my Synapse, and I appreciate your input. I have TRP duel caliper brakes and have some clearance issues and more importantly, I am hoping Jon can explain it in a way that friends of mine can understand. What I tell them goes in one ear and out the other. It would be nice to send them to a video rather than re-explain it on a weekly basis.
This is the best rim brake adjustment guide on TH-cam. Bar none. Effective, quick, covers all the essential points, a couple tips and tricks - it does it all from end to end. Perfect in every way.
Thank you man! Awesome video. Thought I needed a new set of brakes...but just needed to take my time and carefully adjust how I like my brakes to feel.
This helped me alot especially my front rim brakes are not centered and the part of "centre calipers" really helped me on how to do it. I was quite worried for i dont know what to search on YT and gladly the first vid that popped up was this! Thanks guys, your fan from the Philippines!
Man really really thanks for the video, I personally know all the parts except for the last one when you show how to correctly toeing in brake pads, that's exactly what I was looking for! MANY MANY MANY THANKS, SUPER USEFUL!
I was having problems with my rear brake calipers not giving me any strength for some unknown reason. I did my first half century and the rear brakes simply stopped solidly clinching until the point that I could put my bike up on a stand and press the rear lever and I could move the rear tire with my hand. It was tight but moveable and when I was riding it was practically useless. I was going to take it to the shop but using the steps that I just saw in this video it worked just fine. I mean I feel like a champion. THANKS!!!
I thought so too, but eventually decided I needed gain proficiency in maintaining the disc brakes. Lots of information on GCN and the latest edition of the wonderful Lennard Zinn book. I still find rim brakes easier to work on, but discs generally need a bit less frequent attention, and are much better stoppers on the steep wet roads where I live. A different fettling skill, but well worth the effort to acquire and practice the new skills. 👍
Ian Loughead 😀. Not very often, thank goodness! Mine started to rasp slightly on the front. I had a slight warp on the front rotor that I solved using the rotor truing attachment on my wheel stand, which helped but didn’t cure the annoying problem. Cleaning the pistons solved the problem completely. So discs are great, but not maintenance free!! (Bless Shimano for using mineral oil!)
I have a quick release frame, so nearly every time I remove a wheel and replace it, I need to reset the calipers. The rotors are easily bent - I need to re-true them every couple of weeks in my experience. Just little things that become almost daily maintenance tasks that I wouldn't have to worry about with rim brakes. It's a serious PITA, but the better performance of the disc brakes are worth it in the end.
ZDW95 I agree. I have QRs with my disc bike and whilst I don’t need to reset the Calipers that often, it is a skill well worth learning! I’m lucky to travel a lot with a bike (Cape Town tonight!) 😀and don’t take the Di2/disc brake bike. Lithium batteries in the hold isn’t great, and whilst my velovault is a great bikebox, I don’t want to risk those rotors. Easier to fettle old tech in a hotel room!
Thanks for this then! I got both brakes a little bit tighter than they were before, based on inadvertently pinching the rear wire at the tube router by mistake and then making some unsuccessful adjustments after that. The fact is I have only recently had old style caliper brakes and at times they've been like a Chinese finger puzzle at times. But today was better!
Same here. It also remove the black carbon hard coating which is building up on Swi...p yellow pads. Keep the pads clean = better braking and longer rim lifespan.
Good video, thank you. My back brakes are terrible, gonna give them a good tune up very soon. Would be nice to see your braking in realtime just to see how good brakes should be.
Hi GCN, I have one of those quick release breaks where you can open the break wide so you can remove your wheels without doing anything else with the breaks. however, I'm running 32mm wide tires and I have to deflate the tires in order for me to remove it. Is there a way where I can set it up so I don't have to keep deflating my tires?
Using old school mtb with V-brakes: Attach the pads roughly on place, don't tighten much yet. Use a rubber band (from old inner tube) to bind the lever near the grip. Loosen pads and align them, tighten up properly. Long pads (70 mm) don't need toe-in, shorter ones possibly need some. Remove the rubber band, make sure both pads come off the rim evenly. Because the tire is far wider than the rim, make sure nothing rubs when the pads travel away the rim. Sometimes you have to repeat the process a few times to get everything right.
Thanks for the video, very helpful! I couldn't see any adjustment screws on my caliper brakes, turns out it was the big boy in the back. I can finally stop losing my mind at the sound of pads grinding off wheels.
In addition to wiping away the brake dust/road detritus, I add a dash of chain lube to the pivot points of the calipers each time I need to do a bike/chain cleaning. (remove any excess oil)
@@Icewing10 Chain lube is not especially special, although there are GBs of space dedicated to the topic. Any lightweight (runny) oil will do; the other camp uses forms of wax. Oils are better if you get rained on / go on wet roads. WD-40 could be used if applied *_very regularly (almost each ride),_* but it has elements of mineral spirit qualities that make it good for cleaning and removing greases/dirt, but also means it evaporates away.
#askgcntech (My question is at the bottom of this post) I often question the practice of brake pad toe-in today and I'm glad you brought it up in your video. I haven't toed in pads in many years, as manufacturers of pads such as Swissstop and even good OE pads, have made big advancements on materials. They are far superior to 20 years ago. Second, calipers have gotten much stiffer and don't flex like they did years ago. The combination of grabby pads and flexing calipers is what set up the squeal in the "old days", so we had to "pre-twist" the calipers by loading one end of the pads to stop the annoying squeal. I honestly haven't had pads squeal in years and have long quit toeing in pads. It originally happened by accident, as I simply forgot to toe them in and noted I had no problems and my pads lasted MUCH longer, and even seemed to get glazed less often. As far is it giving you better braking/modulation, I'm not buying that logic either due to friction VS area physics. (Frankly, toeing in is just going to make a smaller area of the pad hotter and wear it down that much faster, perhaps causing it to glaze. But that is another debate.) My teen boys and I just returned from a training camp in North Carolina where we did over 20K feet of climbing and descending, so the braking worked the pads pretty hard. A lot of switchbacks on some days. We use good green or blue Swissstop pads, so the wear is minimal afterward. (Gotta love Swissstop, but I digress.) My boy's set-ups are 12ish year old BR-6600 Ultegra calipers. The brakes had zero toe in on the calipers. The pads have no sign of uneven wear due to the theory of caliper twist, nor did they make any noise. Modulation felt fine. Question - Should the practice of toeing-in brake pads be abandoned, considering modern brake pad materials and modern stiff brake calipers? When you do toe-in pads, they wear back to touching throughout the length of the pad within a short time of hill riding due to the higher pressure at one end of the pad, so what is the point of the toe-in today, as you lose your toe in quickly due to wear? Maybe there is something I am not considering. I'll leave this to you tech guru's to debate, but I just haven't seen the need in some years but if there is some good reason I should still be doing it, I'd like to hear it.
On one bike I have 105 calipers that are just fine without toe-in. My touring bike has V-brakes the front one was as noisy as hell. I tried a new brake, a Single Digit Ultimate and various pads (Jagwire seemed quietest); both helped a bit but the only way I could get silence when braking hard was with toe-in. It may have been the Trek520 forks because the back brake was always fine with no toe-in.
First you tighten the pads and then when you place the business card 💳 they are already loose? Should they be loose or tight when you place the card and pull the brakes?
Again, this video seems much more aimed at those who already have a fairly good understanding of bike maintenance and / or with fairly high end bikes. Can you recommend a really basic / total novice video for those w hybrids?
This is a weird ass question but I see alot of riders with their caliper adjustment knob/cam lever thingy in the open position with their brake cable tensioned that way. My thinking is that this was always intended to be closed unless you needed extra room to take the wheel out. Correct? Or am I missing something here?
Question: does force required for braking vary between various producers of brake caliper? Example -I have the bTwin ELOPS 500 single speed bike with OEM brakes, that takes strong action on brake lever to stop the bike. I was thinking to change front brake with Shimano 105 calipers. Will the amount of force on brake levers reduce by that? What would?
#gcntech: When cutting the outer casings for shifting cables, be sure to file the endings flat, otherwise each of the wires that form the outer casing is formed like a screw driver, and is able to cut through these plastic ending caps. And if you don't file the cutted endings of outer casings for brake wires, it may happen that a piece of the cutted wire of the outer casing is preventing an easy gliding of the braking wire. Especially when the outer casing is needed to cover the full distance between shifters and brake levers, it saves quite an amount of weight, when you use fasi outer casings, they weight only about 20 grams/meter, instead of 40 grams/meter like conventional casings, as fasi uses alloy instead of steel.
I use u brake shimano sora,brifter sora..and the cable i pull to tight and tighten the screw..but if i pull the brake 1-2 time..the cable gonna loose,and arm brake its not come back..why ? Can you help me
I have a carbon bike, with Carbon wheels which may need new brake pads soon I was wondering what type of carbon pads can you recommend? thanks I love you channel
curious - I have 2 wheelsets, 1 with rim external width 20.8mm, the other 22.4mm (shimano r-9100 c24 and c60); any thought if I interchange them that the difference of
After running over rough road, always check your caliper centering. Quite often wheels will flex and the rim surface will actually whack into one of the pads causing the caliper to misalign, leaving you with a rubbing brake pad. A good reason to not keep your pads adjusted so close to the rim when not applied.
I second this. I also think those that are setting their brake pads very close risk locking up too easily during a hard/emergency brake. There is always that tendency to grip even harder as we brace ourselves against the forces under braking. I don't agree with the almost touching the handlebar mentality for brake adjustment either... don't want to risk bottoming out with the handles. I compare a 2mm hex key/wrench against the rim-pad distance and that is about right to give some good responsive pull with a bit of play room on a lot of road bike brakes. 2mm is about right as an initial guide.
I find whenever I have to remove my front/rear wheel (to change a flat or install my clip on fenders) that I need to make a fine adjustment to the brake caliper. It seems that I don't get the quick release tension exactly where it was before I took out the wheel and a quick check and fine tune of the brakes is necessary to re-center the calipers.
Bro I have an oscar racing bicycle. I have recently replaced its tubes but problem is that its tyres are not moving well. When I try to ride and start peddling, it takes much time to get speed. Its front wheel is not working. Brake clippers are also gripping tyres unnecessarily. Help me
CAN SOMEONE HELP MEEE........when im pulling the brake lever on the handle the brake pads touch the rims and when i release the lever the brake stuck and i need to use my hand to move it back to normal......how can i move the brake pad when im riding it right??
On my front brakes, one of the pads is closer to the rim than the other, so when I pull on front brakes they engage too hard..I want to loosen so when I apply they'll not grab... how do I adjust the pads against the rim?
There should be a bolt on the outside of your calipers with a 5mm Allen key socket. You can then adjust the angle and height of the blocks. If you need to adjust the whole thing, there is a bolt hiding behind your front fork which you can loosen and then adjust the caliper so it is central
Hello guys my bike is TRINX TEMPO 1.0 and i am asking why is the brake on the dropbar so hard like it's so hard to press on with hands and its almost impossible to brake with bullhorn style hands.
#askgcntech When can we expect GCN Tech to make some videos on cable-operated disc brakes? You always seem to assume that disc = hydraulic, but it ain't necessarily so.
Ima do this with my rear break pads because they don't work well and they do got a lot of life in them I just think its the cable. I had a lot of instances of my front wheel locking up Real hard and my rear wheel is lifted off and I'm flung forward almost.
Fantastic and concise video, thanks! Did it myself for the first time afterwards and it took ~15 minutes.. Do I need to improve or did you just swindle me out of 10 mins ? >:O
#askgnctech Have a bontrager rim brake on 2015 Emonda SLR. Viewing from rear, the left pad has plenty of clearance but the right side is rubbing hard. There’s a 2mm Alan nut on left side with arrows indicating L clockwise and R counter clockwise. Is this the right one to adjust to give right pad more clearance? I’ve tried both directions but doesn’t seem to do anything.
If this video doesn't solve all of your braking problems, make sure you send in any questions using the hashtag #askgcntech
Tip for a fast, accurate and fine tune when centering the caliper: as on disc brakes, release the center bolt, so the caliper is loose. pull hard the brake lever, then tighten the center bolt progressively so it will not affect the correct alignment.
Mechanical disk brakes next?
Michael, to tune mechanical disc brakes, here is a fast and "quite accurate" way: as you may know, the way to adjust the reach of the pads, is generally with an allen key, on the inner face (like if it would be the inner piston) across the spokes. so, first you find the proper reach as you like. then you release the two adjusting bolts at the fork, so the caliper comes loose. then, you add 2-3 points to the bolt (it will close the gap). then you press hard the brake lever. then adjust both bolts. then undo the 2-3 points to the reach adjust bolt. so it will sepparate the inner pad, and it should not have any rubbing.
Frank, I am actually rather familiar with adjusting the disk brakes on my Synapse, and I appreciate your input. I have TRP duel caliper brakes and have some clearance issues and more importantly, I am hoping Jon can explain it in a way that friends of mine can understand. What I tell them goes in one ear and out the other. It would be nice to send them to a video rather than re-explain it on a weekly basis.
The fast adjustment lever is open all the time.....😁
This is by far the best guide by miles, this should be #1 on how to "fix" and or "adjust breaks"
Or even brakes.
TKs, best 5 minutes I have spent on my brakes. Toe in was brilliantly easy.
This is the best rim brake adjustment guide on TH-cam. Bar none. Effective, quick, covers all the essential points, a couple tips and tricks - it does it all from end to end. Perfect in every way.
When the brake pads are glossy but with some life left I usually use some fine sandpaper and they're back to life, thanks for the video!
I just used this 4:34 guide for my BMX brakes, glad it worked. Thanks!!!
This is great. Thank you so much. Most other videos make brakes look so complicated, this made it much easier to understand.
Dura ace rim b are super sensitive on the tension adjuster and the maths is minutely precise. Thanks 🙏🏼
Thank you man! Awesome video. Thought I needed a new set of brakes...but just needed to take my time and carefully adjust how I like my brakes to feel.
This helped me sooo much when i had side pull brakes. Not so applicable now that i have linear pulls but still a great vid. Keep it up GCN
This helped me alot especially my front rim brakes are not centered and the part of "centre calipers" really helped me on how to do it. I was quite worried for i dont know what to search on YT and gladly the first vid that popped up was this! Thanks guys, your fan from the Philippines!
Very good video, and stright to the point
Best tips for brakes calibration. Congratulations!
Thanks! Going to fix mine now, hoping for success.
Great video Jon.
I like to check that my bolts are tightened to the correct torque.
Man really really thanks for the video, I personally know all the parts except for the last one when you show how to correctly toeing in brake pads, that's exactly what I was looking for! MANY MANY MANY THANKS, SUPER USEFUL!
Just watched and used your tips, good ones, thanks, especially the toe in no sqeal one
I was having problems with my rear brake calipers not giving me any strength for some unknown reason. I did my first half century and the rear brakes simply stopped solidly clinching until the point that I could put my bike up on a stand and press the rear lever and I could move the rear tire with my hand. It was tight but moveable and when I was riding it was practically useless. I was going to take it to the shop but using the steps that I just saw in this video it worked just fine. I mean I feel like a champion. THANKS!!!
I have a bike with disc brakes and a bike with rim brakes. Gotta say, rim brakes are much easier to maintain.
I thought so too, but eventually decided I needed gain proficiency in maintaining the disc brakes. Lots of information on GCN and the latest edition of the wonderful Lennard Zinn book. I still find rim brakes easier to work on, but discs generally need a bit less frequent attention, and are much better stoppers on the steep wet roads where I live. A different fettling skill, but well worth the effort to acquire and practice the new skills. 👍
How often do you need to do anything with the disc brakes though?
Ian Loughead 😀. Not very often, thank goodness! Mine started to rasp slightly on the front. I had a slight warp on the front rotor that I solved using the rotor truing attachment on my wheel stand, which helped but didn’t cure the annoying problem. Cleaning the pistons solved the problem completely. So discs are great, but not maintenance free!! (Bless Shimano for using mineral oil!)
I have a quick release frame, so nearly every time I remove a wheel and replace it, I need to reset the calipers. The rotors are easily bent - I need to re-true them every couple of weeks in my experience. Just little things that become almost daily maintenance tasks that I wouldn't have to worry about with rim brakes. It's a serious PITA, but the better performance of the disc brakes are worth it in the end.
ZDW95 I agree. I have QRs with my disc bike and whilst I don’t need to reset the Calipers that often, it is a skill well worth learning! I’m lucky to travel a lot with a bike (Cape Town tonight!) 😀and don’t take the Di2/disc brake bike. Lithium batteries in the hold isn’t great, and whilst my velovault is a great bikebox, I don’t want to risk those rotors. Easier to fettle old tech in a hotel room!
That’s right, I AM worth it! Thanks Jon.
Thanks for this then! I got both brakes a little bit tighter than they were before, based on inadvertently pinching the rear wire at the tube router by mistake and then making some unsuccessful adjustments after that. The fact is I have only recently had old style caliper brakes and at times they've been like a Chinese finger puzzle at times. But today was better!
I also run a piece of sandpaper over the pads from time to time to break up any glazing on the rubber.
Same here. It also remove the black carbon hard coating which is building up on Swi...p yellow pads.
Keep the pads clean = better braking and longer rim lifespan.
Thanks Mark!
Great video, very informative and easy to follow, thanks.
Thanks Jon - always love having your help
Great video this helped me fix me brakes, also fix my squeaky brakes because. My brake block was braking on the surface below the braking surface.
Good video, thank you. My back brakes are terrible, gonna give them a good tune up very soon. Would be nice to see your braking in realtime just to see how good brakes should be.
Jonny Tech, you're on FIRE!! They're coming thick and fast, thanks for the great content.
cheers, Jon
Hi GCN, I have one of those quick release breaks where you can open the break wide so you can remove your wheels without doing anything else with the breaks. however, I'm running 32mm wide tires and I have to deflate the tires in order for me to remove it. Is there a way where I can set it up so I don't have to keep deflating my tires?
Using old school mtb with V-brakes: Attach the pads roughly on place, don't tighten much yet. Use a rubber band (from old inner tube) to bind the lever near the grip. Loosen pads and align them, tighten up properly. Long pads (70 mm) don't need toe-in, shorter ones possibly need some.
Remove the rubber band, make sure both pads come off the rim evenly. Because the tire is far wider than the rim, make sure nothing rubs when the pads travel away the rim. Sometimes you have to repeat the process a few times to get everything right.
Damm, needed this video so much.
Awesome!
Thanks for the video, very helpful!
I couldn't see any adjustment screws on my caliper brakes, turns out it was the big boy in the back. I can finally stop losing my mind at the sound of pads grinding off wheels.
In addition to wiping away the brake dust/road detritus, I add a dash of chain lube to the pivot points of the calipers each time I need to do a bike/chain cleaning. (remove any excess oil)
Is chain lube special or just an oil? What about WD40?
@@Icewing10 Chain lube is not especially special, although there are GBs of space dedicated to the topic. Any lightweight (runny) oil will do; the other camp uses forms of wax. Oils are better if you get rained on / go on wet roads.
WD-40 could be used if applied *_very regularly (almost each ride),_* but it has elements of mineral spirit qualities that make it good for cleaning and removing greases/dirt, but also means it evaporates away.
Brilliant vid.. my brake blocks stick slightly on one side. What's the best method to stop this please?
Great video! Now I will do a better work with my brakes.
Thanks Petinka, glad you liked it 👍
"you're worth it", aw thanks XD
Bram Deprez a pleasure
Since when have you guys been sponsored by L'Oréal?
since Dan went to the hair salon. Jon
René Løwe Jacobsen I did hear worthy, could it be a Wayne's World reference? 😀
This video really helped me to not throw my bike through my conservatory window so thanks 😂😂
#askgcntech (My question is at the bottom of this post) I often question the practice of brake pad toe-in today and I'm glad you brought it up in your video. I haven't toed in pads in many years, as manufacturers of pads such as Swissstop and even good OE pads, have made big advancements on materials. They are far superior to 20 years ago. Second, calipers have gotten much stiffer and don't flex like they did years ago. The combination of grabby pads and flexing calipers is what set up the squeal in the "old days", so we had to "pre-twist" the calipers by loading one end of the pads to stop the annoying squeal. I honestly haven't had pads squeal in years and have long quit toeing in pads. It originally happened by accident, as I simply forgot to toe them in and noted I had no problems and my pads lasted MUCH longer, and even seemed to get glazed less often. As far is it giving you better braking/modulation, I'm not buying that logic either due to friction VS area physics. (Frankly, toeing in is just going to make a smaller area of the pad hotter and wear it down that much faster, perhaps causing it to glaze. But that is another debate.)
My teen boys and I just returned from a training camp in North Carolina where we did over 20K feet of climbing and descending, so the braking worked the pads pretty hard. A lot of switchbacks on some days. We use good green or blue Swissstop pads, so the wear is minimal afterward. (Gotta love Swissstop, but I digress.) My boy's set-ups are 12ish year old BR-6600 Ultegra calipers. The brakes had zero toe in on the calipers. The pads have no sign of uneven wear due to the theory of caliper twist, nor did they make any noise. Modulation felt fine.
Question - Should the practice of toeing-in brake pads be abandoned, considering modern brake pad materials and modern stiff brake calipers? When you do toe-in pads, they wear back to touching throughout the length of the pad within a short time of hill riding due to the higher pressure at one end of the pad, so what is the point of the toe-in today, as you lose your toe in quickly due to wear? Maybe there is something I am not considering. I'll leave this to you tech guru's to debate, but I just haven't seen the need in some years but if there is some good reason I should still be doing it, I'd like to hear it.
On one bike I have 105 calipers that are just fine without toe-in. My touring bike has V-brakes the front one was as noisy as hell. I tried a new brake, a Single Digit Ultimate and various pads (Jagwire seemed quietest); both helped a bit but the only way I could get silence when braking hard was with toe-in. It may have been the Trek520 forks because the back brake was always fine with no toe-in.
Best presentation here..right down to business.👍
Great stuff.
One tip I've learned is clean the brake surface and pads with alcohol when done working on them to help prevent squeals.
👍
GCN Tech I feel so special!
Do you have an equivalent video for disc brakes?
Good simple video. Thanks again bro.
First you tighten the pads and then when you place the business card 💳 they are already loose? Should they be loose or tight when you place the card and pull the brakes?
are metal ferrules better than plastic ones for both brakes and gears
Again, this video seems much more aimed at those who already have a fairly good understanding of bike maintenance and / or with fairly high end bikes. Can you recommend a really basic / total novice video for those w hybrids?
This was very helpful. Thank you GCN Tech🙏🏻
Great information as always 😁
Glad you liked the video Dominick!
This is a weird ass question but I see alot of riders with their caliper adjustment knob/cam lever thingy in the open position with their brake cable tensioned that way. My thinking is that this was always intended to be closed unless you needed extra room to take the wheel out. Correct? Or am I missing something here?
Question: does force required for braking vary between various producers of brake caliper?
Example -I have the bTwin ELOPS 500 single speed bike with OEM brakes, that takes strong action on brake lever to stop the bike. I was thinking to change front brake with Shimano 105 calipers. Will the amount of force on brake levers reduce by that? What would?
Hello, I have the problem where, when I release the brake, the block is not springing back very well. Is there a fix for that?
May I sandpaper rubber pads to clean it as new?
Thanks , solve my brake problem !
its very helpful thank you
Are you going to do the same video for discs?
Laurent Landry discs dont get sorted in 5 minutes
#gcntech: When cutting the outer casings for shifting cables, be sure to file the endings flat, otherwise each of the wires that form the outer casing is formed like a screw driver, and is able to cut through these plastic ending caps. And if you don't file the cutted endings of outer casings for brake wires, it may happen that a piece of the cutted wire of the outer casing is preventing an easy gliding of the braking wire. Especially when the outer casing is needed to cover the full distance between shifters and brake levers, it saves quite an amount of weight, when you use fasi outer casings, they weight only about 20 grams/meter, instead of 40 grams/meter like conventional casings, as fasi uses alloy instead of steel.
It help a lot
Glad you found the video useful!
3 people have brake squeal. Great video.
Very cool, thanks!
I use u brake shimano sora,brifter sora..and the cable i pull to tight and tighten the screw..but if i pull the brake 1-2 time..the cable gonna loose,and arm brake its not come back..why ? Can you help me
Awesome video!
Thank you , you are awesome.
My rim brakes have two mounting bolts, one on each leg of the fork. What should I do?
what does the flip switch near the cable do?
Hi there,
If i toe in the brakes will that reduce wheel locking up?
I have a carbon bike, with Carbon wheels which may need new brake pads soon I was wondering what type of carbon pads can you recommend? thanks I love you channel
Damn what canyon model is that bike looks fire
curious - I have 2 wheelsets, 1 with rim external width 20.8mm, the other 22.4mm (shimano r-9100 c24 and c60); any thought if I interchange them that the difference of
After running over rough road, always check your caliper centering. Quite often wheels will flex and the rim surface will actually whack into one of the pads causing the caliper to misalign, leaving you with a rubbing brake pad. A good reason to not keep your pads adjusted so close to the rim when not applied.
I second this. I also think those that are setting their brake pads very close risk locking up too easily during a hard/emergency brake. There is always that tendency to grip even harder as we brace ourselves against the forces under braking. I don't agree with the almost touching the handlebar mentality for brake adjustment either... don't want to risk bottoming out with the handles. I compare a 2mm hex key/wrench against the rim-pad distance and that is about right to give some good responsive pull with a bit of play room on a lot of road bike brakes. 2mm is about right as an initial guide.
Thanks, mate! You saved the day!
My brake blocks have a problem when I tighten them one side is in and touching the rim back is really out and not touching the rim
I find whenever I have to remove my front/rear wheel (to change a flat or install my clip on fenders) that I need to make a fine adjustment to the brake caliper. It seems that I don't get the quick release tension exactly where it was before I took out the wheel and a quick check and fine tune of the brakes is necessary to re-center the calipers.
Peter Lee that same thing happens to me. So frustrating fiddling with the brakes.
Bro I have an oscar racing bicycle. I have recently replaced its tubes but problem is that its tyres are not moving well. When I try to ride and start peddling, it takes much time to get speed. Its front wheel is not working. Brake clippers are also gripping tyres unnecessarily. Help me
isnt there a small adjusting screw?
where should the fine adjustment lever on the front of the caliper be set?
what is the size of the centering screw on the caliper? What size of an allen key does it require? thanks
My break on the pushes the rim to the right how to fix that
Thanks a lot^^ I got a very good tip
Thanks, very useful video!
Good video
briliant thanks
You're welcome!
Thank you!
CAN SOMEONE HELP MEEE........when im pulling the brake lever on the handle the brake pads touch the rims and when i release the lever the brake stuck and i need to use my hand to move it back to normal......how can i move the brake pad when im riding it right??
Need trick j(speedy c.) I wonder what the difference between cables some are smooth and some are not? Pat from Belgium 🚲
On my front brakes, one of the pads is closer to the rim than the other, so when I pull on front brakes they engage too hard..I want to loosen so when I apply they'll not grab... how do I adjust the pads against the rim?
There should be a bolt on the outside of your calipers with a 5mm Allen key socket. You can then adjust the angle and height of the blocks. If you need to adjust the whole thing, there is a bolt hiding behind your front fork which you can loosen and then adjust the caliper so it is central
my trek domane al 2 disc breaks are very soft and i only got the bike
This video is goated
Helpful!
Does it matter if you accidentally pull the brake lever while you have the caliper open?
Thanks sir.
GOD BLESS YOU !!! 31 dislike probably they have disk brake 😅thanks for help like always !!!😜
my brake pads are touching my wheels. my calipers are a bit short :( do you have any idea or any diy or should i just replace it?
Hello guys my bike is TRINX TEMPO 1.0 and i am asking why is the brake on the dropbar so hard like it's so hard to press on with hands and its almost impossible to brake with bullhorn style hands.
#askgcntech When can we expect GCN Tech to make some videos on cable-operated disc brakes? You always seem to assume that disc = hydraulic, but it ain't necessarily so.
I replace toe-in joint, with flat washers.
Ima do this with my rear break pads because they don't work well and they do got a lot of life in them I just think its the cable. I had a lot of instances of my front wheel locking up Real hard and my rear wheel is lifted off and I'm flung forward almost.
Another great video! Thanks!
Cheers Dennis!
Fantastic and concise video, thanks! Did it myself for the first time afterwards and it took ~15 minutes.. Do I need to improve or did you just swindle me out of 10 mins ? >:O
Ideal! You'll get slicker with practice!
I have exactly bike like this but i don't know what its name is, what's it called ?
Great video
#askgnctech Have a bontrager rim brake on 2015 Emonda SLR. Viewing from rear, the left pad has plenty of clearance but the right side is rubbing hard. There’s a 2mm Alan nut on left side with arrows indicating L clockwise and R counter clockwise. Is this the right one to adjust to give right pad more clearance? I’ve tried both directions but doesn’t seem to do anything.
It was the right one. But the adjustment way off somehow. I had to go very far L to center it all.