I have 432k miles on my 328i 10 years old, all original engine/drivetrain, Dinan stage 1 tuning piggy back @ 3k, Injen tuned cold air intake, MST Turbo Inlet pipe, Dinan Catback exhaust, Wagner Stage 3 Competition fmic Intercooler which gives me mid- high rpm noticeable hp gains, ER charge pipes both, now I’m looking at getting an ER catted downpipe and I’m happy. Only maintenance I’ve done is changed the high pressure fuel pump @ 67k miles, EWG 180k miles, and changed timing chain guides which crossed over to the Rod Bearing so I changed that out to, never changed transmission fluid however changed engine oil 0-30 , 5-30 BMW, or Liquid Molly oil every 6-8k miles. Never revved in traffic, warmed car up and drove smoothly for the first 8-10 minutes to lube up the engine bearings and cylinder’s properly before shifting to high speeds. One thing I’ve noticed is that these cars are built to be driven. Never dinno but butt g’s made me satisfied
Forgot to mention- boost pipe, charge pipe, turbo inlet due to stock BMW pipes being plastic upgrading to aluminum piping will help not crack any pipes and will hold boost pretty nice👌🏼 I got a 437whp N26 with a pure stage 2 turbo
N20 motor is such a fun motor! Ive owned my 2014 X1 Msport almost a year now at 107k miles and now about to cross 120k miles. No issues no timing chain issues just be on top of your maintenance! The car came with a AWE intake and the previous owner also gave me a dinan boost module for free with the car (took it off because it threw me a code) but otherwise really fun car i also beat on it and it hasnt let me down yet! Cant wait to upgrade my charge pipes and downpipe
Omg , thank you soo much for this video! I just bought a 328i n20 and have been trying to do all this research on the best options! And you literally answered a lot the questions!
There's a lot missing. Look up Navardi tuned, on their website they have a sort of plan map for n20 upgrades. There's a bit of preventative maintenance involved. Also the fuel pump/line might actually need upgrading early on.
@@kevinho040You can just look at it, PWG will have hoses not wires going to it and look more like an old school wastegate on a 90s car vs a harness wire plug to it
Code - We do have a common problems video on the N20: th-cam.com/video/EdpZd1-7f-U/w-d-xo.html, but what other content are you looking for? We have a lot of knowledge about BMW engines.
Another great video but It would be helpful, imo, to maybe address the n20 reliability issues (timing chain) before presenting power upgrade options. Vehicular DIY has a great one about this engine and how to avoid its most notorious issues.
Ive had my n20 for 3 years i have a K&N drop in filter bimmer code trans tune and stage 1 just watch out for ofhg leak😭 had oil in coolant had to flush the system like 5 times
Im building a forged internals N20B20 with ductile iron flanged sleeves... its FBO, might do an impeller upgrade on the turbo, keeping it on a basic piggyback for around 300hp/320tq for reliability and MPG
Thank-you for this video. I just picked up a sDrive 28i Z4 w M sport package. Has the N20. Was wondering what I could get out of this little engine. I'm sure 350 HP feels much different than stock!
The N26 is very similar to the N20. We have a course together for both of these engines that has a ton of additional info for $19 bmwtuning.co/courses/bmw-n20-n26-engine-mod-tuning-course/
I noticed that there are intakes for other BMW that is equipped with the N20 motor, but I am not seeing any for the X3 28i N20. The only thing I can find are drop in filters, a GFB DV, FMIC and Charge Pipes. Haven't looked into a downpipe but will do so when I purchase a supersprint exhaust.
So let me get this straight. You do not need an upgraded fuel pump for the N20 engine? That’s Amazing. I figured it would, considering the N54-N55 needed one but it makes sense that it doesn’t seeing as it’s a newer engine.
77 - It depends on what level of hp you're going for. For the sake of the power in the video, no. Fueling modifications can help keep engine temperatures lower with high horsepower builds, but ultimately, the N20's internals weren't built to withstand much more than that.
L - The primary difference between the N20 in the 125i and the N20 in the 328i lies in the engine tuning, turbocharger size, and supporting components. Both use the same N20 block and basic architecture, but the 328i is equipped with a larger turbocharger, enabling it to achieve higher peak horsepower and torque. The 125i has a smaller turbo designed for quicker spool and better low-end response, which limits its top-end power compared to the 328i.
I have bmw f10 520i 2014 with engine N20b20B and my engine is broken...its possible upgraded to N20B20A without any problem with existing DME S\w, it's the same engine for 528i, i hope reply ASAP.
M - The BMW N20B20A and N20B20B engines are mechanically very similar, but they do have differences in software and calibration. Swapping from an N20B20B (used in the F10 520i) to an N20B20A (used in the 528i) is possible, but the DME (engine control module) software will likely require reprogramming or adaptation to account for differences in power output and tuning between the engines.
I have a 2014 BMW 228i (f22) n20 engine and i recently put a Kyostar cold air intake and a bm3 tune, other than that my car is completely stock. I been running into some issues with how my car idles. It seems to have a rough idle upon cold starts. It will jump up to like 1k rpms and then fall and then repeat. You think this would be because any of the aftermarket stuff I installed or would it most likely be because of my spark plugs? I don't remember the last time i changed them and my car has 116k miles. I don't think I have ever changed them since I got it at around 60k miles. Would love to know because I'm trying to figure out if its my tune from bm3 or if its the new cold air intake or if its my spark plugs?
C - The rough idle upon cold starts in your 2014 BMW 228i (F22) with the N20 engine is likely due to worn spark plugs, given that they haven’t been replaced in over 56k miles, well past their typical replacement interval of 30-50k miles for turbocharged engines. Worn plugs can cause incomplete combustion, leading to rough idling, especially noticeable during cold starts when the engine is running richer. The BM3 tune and Kyostar cold air intake could also contribute if the tune isn’t properly calibrated for the intake, as this could disrupt air-fuel ratios. However, spark plugs are a more likely culprit given their mileage. Start by replacing the spark plugs with the correct OEM-spec plugs (consider checking the ignition coils too, as they can degrade over time). If the issue persists after replacing the plugs, check the tune’s calibration and ensure the cold air intake is properly sealed and not introducing unmetered air.
@@8020Media Sounds good, jus got some NGK spark plugs today with some new Delphi ignition coils. Noticed that I have an oil leak now to take care of as well. Any ideas where the oil leak could be coming from? Are there any common spots for an oil leak on an N20? Would like to fix this problem myself and save some money by not having to take it to a shop. If its too difficult to handle then I will take it to a shop. I noticed the spark plugs are relatively easy to switch out as well. I did notice after putting in my COI that my AFR reading was a bit high. I also get CEL codes saying the mixture is too lean. Think this problem may be from my COI? Would I have to get a custom tune from one of the custom tuners bm3 offers in the app to calibrate my COI or is the calibration part something I can do?
C - Common oil leak sources include the valve cover gasket, oil filter housing gasket, and oil pan gasket. The valve cover gasket is a frequent culprit, especially as the rubber deteriorates with age, leading to leaks around the cover and onto the exhaust manifold. The oil filter housing gasket can also fail, causing leaks that drip down near the serpentine belt, which can be dangerous if oil gets onto the belt. Check these areas first, as they are DIY-friendly repairs with basic tools. Keep us updated!
My friend recently did a timing chain job on his N26 X4 went out and bought a n20 timing chain kit upon installation it was apparent that the N20 kit is different from the N26 so he had to get a refund and source the N26 specific kit
I have a 2014 bmw 320i I have everything on it that you mention and I have 3inch straight pipe I don’t know how much horsepower it has and I use 93 for gas
350HP on a 20i 👀....?! Have a bone stock PWG N20 320i (ZF8), bought at 186k KMs, just hit 222k KMs. Uses no oil or coolant, no smoke, and has never stuttered once (knocks on wood!). In the almost 40k KMs I've had it, oil has been changed maybe 8 times. Motor has been great, planning to stay stock, would love XHP Stg 2 for the ZF8 though. Also bit more sound would be nice, like a stock MK7 Golf GTI. Now the rear suspension on the other hand has been a nightmare...
Have a 2015 228i with the n20/n26. I'm considering doing a stage 1 (BM3) tune. I'm a bit concerned on how this will impact reliability as this is my only car. I plan on doing an aluminum charge and boost pipe just in case, but have heard that you need to change spark plugs, ignition coils, and do oil changes more regularly. Have you noticed any issues with engine reliability after doing a tune?
A conservative stage 1 tune shouldn't have any notable impacts on N20 reliability. That said, higher boost does put a little more stress on the turbocharger and some other ancillary components. If you're frequently going WOT and using the newfound power that could shorten turbo longevity a little bit. Otherwise, it's true that you'll also end up replacing spark plugs and ignition coils a little more often (again, especially if you're frequently using all the power and boost). You shouldn't need to change the oil more frequently unless you only change the oil every 10,000 miles. I'd recommend changing the sooner (every ~4,000 to 7,500 miles) regardless of whether the engine is stock or tuned.
Just need chargepipe. Oil change every 3-5k miles if you keep stock intake. These intakes are good and keep engine clean. Carbonfiber if you race & go stage 2e40
@@8020Media sorry didn't see this. I am comfortable with my car as is, but if I can safely increase power then I might explore it. I do go WOT a few times a day when I drive because I live in Atlanta and need to accelerate pretty rapidly in order to safely merge and not get cut off. I used to drive a 138hp Corolla and got bullied a lot on the road. I've only had this car for a little more than a year (my dad was the only previous owner) so I'll start changing the oil a bit more frequently regardless of a tune. When I have some extra money, I'm probably going to have an aluminum charge and boost pipe installed just for preventative maintenance. After all that, I've toyed with idea of a stage 1 bm3 tune, but not if it screws up my daily driver. This is the only car I have and I'm really not in the position to get another.
@@hollywood2177 I'd only go stage 1 because stage 2 needs a downpipe which is a headache for city emissions tests. When I get some more money, I'm planning on doing a charge and boost pipe regardless of whether I tune it. I'd like to keep it as reliable as possible, but if I can safely go stage 1 then I'll consider it. Would like to hold on to the car for a bit.
VRSF is a good option for a downpipe and FMIC. There are tons of intakes available. You can get the JB4 from Burger Motorsports if you want to go that tuning route, or there's bootmod3 which is just purchased online/through the app. Ultimately, all the parts are going to be easiest to buy online and there are tons of options for the N20.
I have 432k miles on my 328i 10 years old, all original engine/drivetrain, Dinan stage 1 tuning piggy back @ 3k, Injen tuned cold air intake, MST Turbo Inlet pipe, Dinan Catback exhaust, Wagner Stage 3 Competition fmic Intercooler which gives me mid- high rpm noticeable hp gains, ER charge pipes both, now I’m looking at getting an ER catted downpipe and I’m happy. Only maintenance I’ve done is changed the high pressure fuel pump @ 67k miles, EWG 180k miles, and changed timing chain guides which crossed over to the Rod Bearing so I changed that out to, never changed transmission fluid however changed engine oil 0-30 , 5-30 BMW, or Liquid Molly oil every 6-8k miles. Never revved in traffic, warmed car up and drove smoothly for the first 8-10 minutes to lube up the engine bearings and cylinder’s properly before shifting to high speeds. One thing I’ve noticed is that these cars are built to be driven. Never dinno but butt g’s made me satisfied
S - Nice! This is a great success story for the BMW N20!
I have a 2014 320i with a stage 1 tune. I'm at 133k km now, the chain feels sturdy. When would you recommend changing the chain/tensioners
N - We typically recommend it at 100k miles, but it's different for each engine. Stay on top of maintenance.
@@8020Mediai heard the big timing chain issues were fixed after 2015 on the n20 right? Ive got a 2015 528i with about 93k and just wondering
R - We have a great article on this on our website: bmwtuning.co/bmw-n20-timing-chain-failure-symptoms-solutions/
Great video. Don't see too many ppl talking on upgrading n20/n26, so this definitely helped.
Frankie - Thanks for the feedback! Hope it helped.
Forgot to mention- boost pipe, charge pipe, turbo inlet due to stock BMW pipes being plastic upgrading to aluminum piping will help not crack any pipes and will hold boost pretty nice👌🏼 I got a 437whp N26 with a pure stage 2 turbo
J - Nice! You've built a good one! Thanks for sharing your experience.
what's your ig? I have questions
How long have you had it, and how many miles /year?
shit man 437 whp on a hybrid turbo. E85? Meth? I didn’t know that was possible
post some vids PLEASE
N20 motor is such a fun motor! Ive owned my 2014 X1 Msport almost a year now at 107k miles and now about to cross 120k miles. No issues no timing chain issues just be on top of your maintenance! The car came with a AWE intake and the previous owner also gave me a dinan boost module for free with the car (took it off because it threw me a code) but otherwise really fun car i also beat on it and it hasnt let me down yet! Cant wait to upgrade my charge pipes and downpipe
D - We agree. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience!
Omg , thank you soo much for this video! I just bought a 328i n20 and have been trying to do all this research on the best options! And you literally answered a lot the questions!
Sace - Love to hear that! Thanks for the feedback!
Thick_f30 he has a lot of stuff also!
There's a lot missing. Look up Navardi tuned, on their website they have a sort of plan map for n20 upgrades.
There's a bit of preventative maintenance involved.
Also the fuel pump/line might actually need upgrading early on.
Great video, On my EWG 2013 N20 I have an Active Autowerke tune on my car for the last 5 years with zero issues. Another great tuner in the USA
Q - We agree! Thanks for sharing your experience!
How you found out if it’s EWG or PWG? I’m also with a N20 2013.
K - Look up the VIN. It should say there.
@@kevinho040You can just look at it, PWG will have hoses not wires going to it and look more like an old school wastegate on a 90s car vs a harness wire plug to it
I love this, I would love more content on the N20! The F31 only came with the N20 or B48 here in the states, so I’d love to make better use of the car
Code - We do have a common problems video on the N20: th-cam.com/video/EdpZd1-7f-U/w-d-xo.html, but what other content are you looking for? We have a lot of knowledge about BMW engines.
I have F31, I had no idea it was available w B48.
Great job explaining all of this!! Really helped me with my wife's N20 big turbo upgrade!
M - Thanks for the feedback! Sounds like your wife has a nice N20 build!
I wouldn’t do a big single turbo on a n20…
H - If you know how to build it, why not
Another great video but It would be helpful, imo, to maybe address the n20 reliability issues (timing chain) before presenting power upgrade options. Vehicular DIY has a great one about this engine and how to avoid its most notorious issues.
Spian - Thank you for the feedback! We have a completely separate video covering common problems here: th-cam.com/video/EdpZd1-7f-U/w-d-xo.html
The N20 is very reliable
Just bought a 328 , looking to build daily/street without feeling I could’ve just bought an n55 lol thanks for this
B - Hope it helps.
Ive had my n20 for 3 years i have a K&N drop in filter bimmer code trans tune and stage 1 just watch out for ofhg leak😭 had oil in coolant had to flush the system like 5 times
Chicago - Thanks for sharing your experience and helping wolf!
Chicago - Thanks for sharing your experience and helping wolf!
@@8020Media ofc brother 🫱🏼🫲🏽 any tips on channel growth? Just getting started here brother
Im building a forged internals N20B20 with ductile iron flanged sleeves... its FBO, might do an impeller upgrade on the turbo, keeping it on a basic piggyback for around 300hp/320tq for reliability and MPG
Geoffrey - Sounds like you're building a good one! Keep us updated.
Thank-you for this video. I just picked up a sDrive 28i Z4 w M sport package. Has the N20. Was wondering what I could get out of this little engine. I'm sure 350 HP feels much different than stock!
MVF - Thanks for sharing your feedback and experience!
Get bootmode tune stage 1 or 2 93
Full bolt ons fmic ,exhaust ,hi flow cat ,diverter valve , CHARGE PIPE, stock intake(aftermarket for sounds) carbonfiber intake 1k$ makes more power* transmission tune, liquid Molly oil 5-30 , inlet pipe,
stage 2 e40 340hp
H - Yup, basically what we have in the video.
please post another similar video about the n26, so helpful. Tysm
The N26 is very similar to the N20. We have a course together for both of these engines that has a ton of additional info for $19
bmwtuning.co/courses/bmw-n20-n26-engine-mod-tuning-course/
Literally said in the video that everything that applies to the n20 applies to the n26
I noticed that there are intakes for other BMW that is equipped with the N20 motor, but I am not seeing any for the X3 28i N20. The only thing I can find are drop in filters, a GFB DV, FMIC and Charge Pipes. Haven't looked into a downpipe but will do so when I purchase a supersprint exhaust.
C - Keep us posted! Sounds like you're building a nice N20.
So let me get this straight. You do not need an upgraded fuel pump for the N20 engine? That’s Amazing. I figured it would, considering the N54-N55 needed one but it makes sense that it doesn’t seeing as it’s a newer engine.
77 - It depends on what level of hp you're going for. For the sake of the power in the video, no. Fueling modifications can help keep engine temperatures lower with high horsepower builds, but ultimately, the N20's internals weren't built to withstand much more than that.
@@8020Mediahow much power would you say an n20 could reliably make with forged internals
Finn - It depends how much money you're looking to pour into it.
What’s the difference between n20 125i and n20 328i. Stage 2 260hp on the 125i and 310hp on the 328i. Different turbo?
L - The primary difference between the N20 in the 125i and the N20 in the 328i lies in the engine tuning, turbocharger size, and supporting components. Both use the same N20 block and basic architecture, but the 328i is equipped with a larger turbocharger, enabling it to achieve higher peak horsepower and torque. The 125i has a smaller turbo designed for quicker spool and better low-end response, which limits its top-end power compared to the 328i.
@ so I can install the 328i turbo in the 125i and will run the same? With de tune obviously
L - Yes, you can install the 328i's N20 turbocharger in your 125i, but it won’t run the same without proper supporting mods and tuning.
To go stage 1 do you need a charge pipe upgrade for reliability?
Living - You don't NEED, but it would certainly help.
Yes you do need chargepipe you will blow your engine if you don’t
How much power can the rods handle?
I - 350 - 400whp reliably.
I have bmw f10 520i 2014 with engine N20b20B and my engine is broken...its possible upgraded to N20B20A without any problem with existing DME S\w, it's the same engine for 528i, i hope reply ASAP.
M - The BMW N20B20A and N20B20B engines are mechanically very similar, but they do have differences in software and calibration. Swapping from an N20B20B (used in the F10 520i) to an N20B20A (used in the 528i) is possible, but the DME (engine control module) software will likely require reprogramming or adaptation to account for differences in power output and tuning between the engines.
I have a 2014 BMW 228i (f22) n20 engine and i recently put a Kyostar cold air intake and a bm3 tune, other than that my car is completely stock. I been running into some issues with how my car idles. It seems to have a rough idle upon cold starts. It will jump up to like 1k rpms and then fall and then repeat. You think this would be because any of the aftermarket stuff I installed or would it most likely be because of my spark plugs? I don't remember the last time i changed them and my car has 116k miles. I don't think I have ever changed them since I got it at around 60k miles. Would love to know because I'm trying to figure out if its my tune from bm3 or if its the new cold air intake or if its my spark plugs?
C - The rough idle upon cold starts in your 2014 BMW 228i (F22) with the N20 engine is likely due to worn spark plugs, given that they haven’t been replaced in over 56k miles, well past their typical replacement interval of 30-50k miles for turbocharged engines. Worn plugs can cause incomplete combustion, leading to rough idling, especially noticeable during cold starts when the engine is running richer. The BM3 tune and Kyostar cold air intake could also contribute if the tune isn’t properly calibrated for the intake, as this could disrupt air-fuel ratios. However, spark plugs are a more likely culprit given their mileage. Start by replacing the spark plugs with the correct OEM-spec plugs (consider checking the ignition coils too, as they can degrade over time). If the issue persists after replacing the plugs, check the tune’s calibration and ensure the cold air intake is properly sealed and not introducing unmetered air.
@@8020Media Sounds good, jus got some NGK spark plugs today with some new Delphi ignition coils. Noticed that I have an oil leak now to take care of as well. Any ideas where the oil leak could be coming from? Are there any common spots for an oil leak on an N20? Would like to fix this problem myself and save some money by not having to take it to a shop. If its too difficult to handle then I will take it to a shop. I noticed the spark plugs are relatively easy to switch out as well. I did notice after putting in my COI that my AFR reading was a bit high. I also get CEL codes saying the mixture is too lean. Think this problem may be from my COI? Would I have to get a custom tune from one of the custom tuners bm3 offers in the app to calibrate my COI or is the calibration part something I can do?
C - Common oil leak sources include the valve cover gasket, oil filter housing gasket, and oil pan gasket. The valve cover gasket is a frequent culprit, especially as the rubber deteriorates with age, leading to leaks around the cover and onto the exhaust manifold. The oil filter housing gasket can also fail, causing leaks that drip down near the serpentine belt, which can be dangerous if oil gets onto the belt. Check these areas first, as they are DIY-friendly repairs with basic tools. Keep us updated!
Aye man. I know you mostly specialize on BMWs, but what do you know about the M271 Supercharged engine found in the W204 C180 Kompressor
I wanted to know what about the b46 motor in the newer f chassis
S - We will add the B46 to our list!
Great Video!!!!
Yuna - Thanks for the feedback! Hope you found it helpful.
The timing chain kits are different between the n20 and n26 nobody seems to mention this.
D - Thanks for the insight.
@alexinadon7999 they are not interchangeable between the two so if u have to replace make sure you get the n20 specific vice-versa for n26
My friend recently did a timing chain job on his N26 X4 went out and bought a n20 timing chain kit upon installation it was apparent that the N20 kit is different from the N26 so he had to get a refund and source the N26 specific kit
I have a 2014 bmw 320i I have everything on it that you mention and I have 3inch straight pipe I don’t know how much horsepower it has and I use 93 for gas
Ron - Nice! You're probably around that 350hp if you have a good tune!
350HP on a 20i 👀....?!
Have a bone stock PWG N20 320i (ZF8), bought at 186k KMs, just hit 222k KMs. Uses no oil or coolant, no smoke, and has never stuttered once (knocks on wood!). In the almost 40k KMs I've had it, oil has been changed maybe 8 times. Motor has been great, planning to stay stock, would love XHP Stg 2 for the ZF8 though. Also bit more sound would be nice, like a stock MK7 Golf GTI.
Now the rear suspension on the other hand has been a nightmare...
S - Thanks for taking the time to share your experience!
Have a 2015 228i with the n20/n26. I'm considering doing a stage 1 (BM3) tune. I'm a bit concerned on how this will impact reliability as this is my only car. I plan on doing an aluminum charge and boost pipe just in case, but have heard that you need to change spark plugs, ignition coils, and do oil changes more regularly. Have you noticed any issues with engine reliability after doing a tune?
A conservative stage 1 tune shouldn't have any notable impacts on N20 reliability. That said, higher boost does put a little more stress on the turbocharger and some other ancillary components. If you're frequently going WOT and using the newfound power that could shorten turbo longevity a little bit.
Otherwise, it's true that you'll also end up replacing spark plugs and ignition coils a little more often (again, especially if you're frequently using all the power and boost). You shouldn't need to change the oil more frequently unless you only change the oil every 10,000 miles. I'd recommend changing the sooner (every ~4,000 to 7,500 miles) regardless of whether the engine is stock or tuned.
Just need chargepipe. Oil change every 3-5k miles if you keep stock intake. These intakes are good and keep engine clean. Carbonfiber if you race & go stage 2e40
@@8020Media sorry didn't see this. I am comfortable with my car as is, but if I can safely increase power then I might explore it. I do go WOT a few times a day when I drive because I live in Atlanta and need to accelerate pretty rapidly in order to safely merge and not get cut off. I used to drive a 138hp Corolla and got bullied a lot on the road. I've only had this car for a little more than a year (my dad was the only previous owner) so I'll start changing the oil a bit more frequently regardless of a tune. When I have some extra money, I'm probably going to have an aluminum charge and boost pipe installed just for preventative maintenance. After all that, I've toyed with idea of a stage 1 bm3 tune, but not if it screws up my daily driver. This is the only car I have and I'm really not in the position to get another.
@@hollywood2177 I'd only go stage 1 because stage 2 needs a downpipe which is a headache for city emissions tests. When I get some more money, I'm planning on doing a charge and boost pipe regardless of whether I tune it. I'd like to keep it as reliable as possible, but if I can safely go stage 1 then I'll consider it. Would like to hold on to the car for a bit.
Where can I buy all these parts I have a 2013 528i
VRSF is a good option for a downpipe and FMIC. There are tons of intakes available. You can get the JB4 from Burger Motorsports if you want to go that tuning route, or there's bootmod3 which is just purchased online/through the app. Ultimately, all the parts are going to be easiest to buy online and there are tons of options for the N20.
Can I do this to a 2016 320i
yeah just look up your vin and figure out what engine you have
Joseph - Thanks for assisting Nate!
Okay so wait, I can just put E30 fuel in my tank? I’m on stage 2 tune and I never heard of this E30 fueling
Gio - What vehicle do you have?
Yes you can but make sure you don’t go past e30 or e40 when fully tuned stage 2 hi flow cats with e85 reader.
I believe the 328i’s N20 engine has stronger pistons than the 320i’s N20, but I could be wrong
The pistons are slightly different due to compression ratios but I don't know that there is a major strength difference with respect to power capacity
The 320 and 328 have the same internals just different compression they share their internals with the N55
2016 328i ty
E - Thanks for the feedback. We hope this video helped!