The cap on top of some tube designs always connects to the anode (plate) and is where the high voltage is applied. As voltages get higher for many tube designs in order to be able to drive more wattage out of them there's a danger of the other elements and or connections arcing over to the anode inside the tube, or at the connections on the base, so they connected the anode at the top to prevent this. Direct verses indirect heating is how the cathode is designed in the tube and has nothing to do with the need for the anode on the top. Direct heated tubes use the heating element (filament) in the tube as the cathode. Many of the rectifier tubes are designed that way as well as early amplification tube models. In-direct heating is where the heating element is separate from the cathode and heats up the cathode.
There is never a point where neither tube is conducting or any hand off. Both tubes are typically biased about 70% into Class A of the AB. Single ended triode have a lot of distortion in comparison. The Distortion of a single-ended stage is going to have a lot of even order harmonics that your brain seems to like. You only think they're better.
Great showcase of SET. Really looking forward to knowing what that last one was. I am just getting into tubes and would appreciate any advise on what to pair with spatial audio high sensitivity open baffle speakers. Just starting out so I'm not wanting to break the bank. I thank you in advance for any advise. Cheers
Well, Fred Flintstone already commented, but connection to the top has nothing to do with being direct heated or not. The top connection by separate wire is normally the anode ( plate ) connection. Direct heated means simply that the heater ( filament ) is doubling as cathode, i.e. the positive plate ( anode ) is ripping electrons directly from the heater filament, there is no dedicated cathode element. Indirect means that there is a separate cathode element ( a sheet metal piece, like the plate more or less ), and a separate heater filament that heats the cathode by radiation, like "shining on it". The purist single ended audiophiles normally as well have another added criteria for the amp being "creme-de-la-creme", namely that there should be No Global Negative Feedback, i.e. 0 % NFB in the main circuit, since that is alleged to; A) Smear micro detail in the signal that is carrier of spatial audio qualities and fine nuances. B) Cancels even order harmonics ( predominantely 2nd order ) generated by the output tubes, leaving only less well sounding odd order harmonics when amp is driven hard. The direct heated part of the magic sauce is normally abbreviated DHT , Direct Heated Triode. So, the "creme-de-la-creme" single ended tube amp should be DHT SET, with NO Negative Feedback. By the way, I do believe that getting some basic tube inner topology knowledge is a good thing, for being able to navigate the tube jungle, and to get a grip on whether the seller knows the field he is operating in. Not only the big 6C21 tube, but also the 845 and 805 are from the beginning radio transmitter tubes.
Very nice collection and great seeing all kind of makers like EMLs and Hashimoto featured and dispelling the common BS floating around. Btw most push pull tube amps now are class A or AB.. nearly nobody I think does class B tube amps where you'd have the crossover distortion you mention.
Yeah and I think running push-pull amps biased as class AB has been a thing for quite a while. Pure class B hasn't been a thing for longer than I've been alive at the very least (I was born in 2007). Well, maybe in solid state car audio amps - pure class D made a comeback in amps designed just to push subwoofers / barkers / meowers / etc. as efficiently as possible, 10% THD be damned!
I used to love Tube Rolling and Listening to music at the same time in the Mid 70's with my Harmon Kardon Citation! Did have to let it cool down between sessions! 😉
As you say, it all depends on the sensitivity of the speaker. A 2A3 tube amp will give you the same audible output as a 300b tube amp if the speaker is 6 db more sensitive.
I fell in love with the Margules i240 tube amp powering Scansonics at Capital Audio Fest. I own those Scansonic mb6b and really tempted to get that amp. I think you mentioned you liked that amp/room.
LOL. I love that, this puppy will heat your room in the winter time... as if you can find that tube amp, amazing. I wish I could hear these in person. I am starting to getthe tube bug, but not on this level. I would be curious what your recommendations for a new tube amp ( that is readily available on the market) would be. There is so many new tube amps available today, particularly from China. By the way, my only experience with tubes is when I was a kid and having to go to my local pharmacy to get a replacement tube for the black and white TV console. I remember they had this kiosk where you would plug your old tube into a corresponding socket to figure out which tube you needed and then you would pick out the tube in a drawer under the socket display. This was around the late 60s, and it certainly left an impression on this kid's mind to this day.
Gr8 vid. I had a pair of 805 S.E. mono amps, with 1 of the older 805's per amp & with a (scarily thin) wire that was anode connected & exited from the tubes top cap connector & back down into the Output Trannie ...I assume. I put them aside for a 80w class A amp because those tubes jobs didn't give a good low'end on a pair of very inefficient Audiostatic e/stats that were listed at (an optimistic) 83 db/watt/metre, but seemed to be quite lower than that) But when I tired of the e/stats, those amps sound glorious on vintage Tannoy 15" D.D. speakers (now 53 yrs old, made in 1969 & working fine (proof of gr8 engineering imo.) Tubes produce a seductively warm mollycoddling glorious sound, even the old vintage tube amps like Radfords (2xEL84's per side) or Rogers (EL84's per ch') or Quad's (2×KT66 a side) I grew up on those vintage amps which we cheap s/h buys before eBay came along. I very much prefer them compared to solid state if they have suitable speakers to play into. They draw me into the music better & can be analytical but in a delightful, cosy audio embrace. Never tried 300B's that would match my very efficient vintage Tannoys very well ...I reckon. I was most surprised at the vastly different looking 300B's available. I cannot imagine the best ones being less than expensive, still, tubes last longer than most people I've heard claim, I know from vintage tube amps I bought with original Mullards, still wotking fine after 30 to 50 years, tho I don't know how new ones might have improved the sound. I wouldn't be one of those guys who bought new tubes all round every 2 years or so. Pre,amp & low level signal tubes seem to me can last nearly forever! Power tubes I assume last least long, the do the hardest work, I suppose.
Micky - great video . Got my first 300 b amp 30 years ago when Dennis Had started Cary Audio . To clear up something 300b tubes are directly heated even if they dont have the wire on top. directed heated types, the cathode is the filament. For indirect heated types, the cathode and filament are separate elements. There are 3 common materials used: thoriated-tungsten, oxides, impregnated tungsten. The thoriated-tungsten type will give a nice glow like the common light bulbs. Some folks even took things to an extreme and used mercury vapor tubes as rectifiers - apparently they are incredible but highly dangerous if broken. I know that back in the day the thought was to pair the SET with a horn speaker such as the ALTEC 19 - which is what I did or a Voight tube speaker - not sure what modern speaker would give you the 100 db efficiency to really optimize them ?
If you own an older version of Cary’s 300SEI, MM de Capo BE by Reference 3A with high-quality stands [mine are from Star Sound Technologies] would sound great with your amp. Things you can do to dramatically upgrade the sound: I had my upgrades done through The Audio Connection in Seattle, a great stereo shop. 1) Exchange the fuses for Swiss Digital Fuse Boxes. 2) Duelund Silver Bypass Capacitors (they take around 300 hours to break in) 3) Clarity Capacitors 4) Cardas Binding Posts 5) Furutech IEC Inlet 6) High-Quality power cord 7) Upgraded tubes 8) DH LABS RCA Sockets 9) I clean all the contacts every 3 years with 99.9% isopropyl alcohol, using a foam tipped swab, then apply Furutech Nano Liquid.
Those Huge Tubes bust be fun to watch and to listen to. I didn't know they had power tubes that big. Who makes those huge tubes power amps?! I would like to get one!
Ive heard some fast talking jump starting , creme dela creme mumbo jumbo but your definitely the most inaccurate. The top cap is an anode . A directly heated cathode is exactly that and it has nothing to do with having an anode cap. ⚡😂
Hah....yeah... I had to retire my George Wright WPA 3.5 during the Summer months. Retired permanently now but man i miss that with the Sophia 300b's i had in there. Glorious sound and i can only imagine how great these amps and tubes sound that Mike is showing us in this vid! :)
I pulled a pair of Vienna acoustic mahler with a pp 300b with no problems. If the design is good enough. It can rock. There is a video of it on my old channel
All vac valve amps pp or single ended work in class A for the first couple of watts of output. So when using a hi sensitive speakers (which you should for those amps as they were made for them) your amp is basically using mini watts for most listening if say your speakers are say 102 dbl per w/m even at 105dbl they’d still be in classA. 105 dbl will fill a pretty good room. And if your pushing a 10 w push pull then at that level your not going to notice the distortion your talking about in fact you’ll probably be deaf.
I wish to one day have $100k worth of tube amp just loitering around my personal space. Dayum! Just selling the Canary amps could get me outta the debt hell im in, lol. Those are all sweet amps though brotha.
I know , If you have to ask, you can't afford. But for fun, how much do the NAT Magma blocks run? The actual tubes can be bought reasonable, but the transformers are murder. I was wanting to build my own SET GM-100 tube amps. I started one that uses a 3-1000 triode. Just the filament transformer cost me 98 dollars. I was able to use a microwave oven transformer as my high tension. But will have to hand wind an output transformer.
@@OCDHIFiGuy Yes, I have seen them. But they are pretty mainstream. I expect them to be kind of high. I build amps from unusual tubes. often TV tubes. My last was built from horizontal output tubes. Surprisingly, it sounds nice. Not a power monster, but single ended and really nice presence. I found the GM-100 tubes before I ever seen those monoblocks. I wanted to build one back then. All the stuff I build is super low-buck. I really envy your collection.
Solidstate amps are mostly Push-Pull amps also but there are single-ended SS amps like the Pass Labs Aleph 1.2 for example. There's no such thing as business amps and amps for fun in hifi. It's a created dichotomy. Tubes seem to have the edge on the midrange band and spaciouness. Solidstate has the slam and control over the low end. Just buy whatever you want as long as it gives value for money and it must be technically appropiate meaning you do not need a 500 Watts RMS on a 105 dB Hornloudspeaker or a SET on a Apogee Scintilla or other loudspeaker that has very low efficiency and a load that dips below 2 Ohms or so.
Thanks for the rundown of your gear ! If there is one amp you should hear it is the David Berning 845 amp . It is his ultimate zero hysteresis output transformerless amp . $$$$$$$
You are right in that the quality of the OT's are key to great sound with tube amps. They don't make them like they used to (as well as tubes for that matter!) probably because of environmental issues. I agree that triode connected 6550's, KT-88's and EL-34's aren't superstars when triode connected but every tube is unique and some better than others. I have found that 807's can sound magical when triode connected. Also, don't sell short class A push-pull - they can sound amazing (yes, nuanced) if properly implemented. It's all about power supplies and implementation!
Why are you naming rare tubes nobody can get... FEH ! Waste of time.. You can get Chinese copies of WE 212 for $2200 per pair..lol... 833A ? lol... Do whatever you want , but GM100 are plentiful and $150 each..
@Obi Baddad, warning bells ? Lol. Is it an emergency ?? ROFL did you see Me turn them on ? My process for turning amps on starts with cleaning the tubes.
Lol.@Betel Geuse. You don't listen. (Typical youtuber) all you exist for is to find the negative. The AMP is a CLONE of a WE91A.. thats NOT a tube for your information. It's an AMPLIFIER MODEL. The tube I pulled out of it was NOT WE and I never said it was. By the way WE DID reissue the 300B a few years back anyways. Do your Homework.
11:13 Just because there's a cap on top it doesn't necessarily mean it's directly heated. The 807 is a prime example. It has a plate (anode) cap on top. The cathode is at pin 4 and the tube is indirectly heated with the filament at pins 1 & 5. Come on man, get your facts straight. I'm at the point where I'm starting to question everything you say or take your advice on tube distributers and look for a you-tuber that's been at this long enough to know the difference between directly heated and indirectly heated tubes.
Lol. Then get lost. It's called freedom of choice.. it's irrelevant to the listener if it's a cathode, anode or dildo... it's about the listening, silly. . But boy could I take advantage of you knowing you are sold using accurate tech spec for useless information.. any idiot can learn specification details, but putting together meaningful systems is elusive.. and who gives a crap about TH-cam ?? It's not at ALL what this hobby is about.
The biggest amp is using a 6n6p muddy input/driver tube 🤮. Guys, huge tube amps are sounding not better than a 2A3 or 300B amp. They have only some more power that’s all. Don’t spend your money for a huge amp. Instead, buy a good high efficient loudspeaker and enjoy your music.
Other than just anal retention or purism, is there really any compelling reason to NOT just use solid state rectification? I'm all about keeping the signal path itself all tooby, but having a tube rectifier doesn't seem (to my admittedly
Shall we address how much smarter class D is than tube ? Efficient ? Cost effective ? Right. People buy for different reasons that they think are important.
So…says he doesn’t know what’s what inside a tube such as the grid, plate etc and then tells people to buy from people who aren’t just selling tube amps and understand tubes 🤷🏽♂️ Well…at least he’s selling tube amps instead of just solid state. Otherwise it was a educational video
I have a pair of the VAC 452 Tube Music Block mono amps. I love them. It's cool seeing all the different types of tube amps.
The cap on top of some tube designs always connects to the anode (plate) and is where the high voltage is applied. As voltages get higher for many tube designs in order to be able to drive more wattage out of them there's a danger of the other elements and or connections arcing over to the anode inside the tube, or at the connections on the base, so they connected the anode at the top to prevent this.
Direct verses indirect heating is how the cathode is designed in the tube and has nothing to do with the need for the anode on the top. Direct heated tubes use the heating element (filament) in the tube as the cathode. Many of the rectifier tubes are designed that way as well as early amplification tube models. In-direct heating is where the heating element is separate from the cathode and heats up the cathode.
There is never a point where neither tube is conducting or any hand off. Both tubes are typically biased about 70% into Class A of the AB. Single ended triode have a lot of distortion in comparison. The Distortion of a single-ended stage is going to have a lot of even order harmonics that your brain seems to like. You only think they're better.
Wrong. The top cap CAN be anode or CAN be grid. Older, preamp tube have typical grid at top cap.
Great job nice tube lesson , more please
great collection of set amps!
thanks for sharing :). !!
Great showcase of SET. Really looking forward to knowing what that last one was. I am just getting into tubes and would appreciate any advise on what to pair with spatial audio high sensitivity open baffle speakers. Just starting out so I'm not wanting to break the bank. I thank you in advance for any advise. Cheers
Well, Fred Flintstone already commented, but connection to the top has nothing to do with being direct heated or not. The top connection by separate wire is normally the anode ( plate ) connection.
Direct heated means simply that the heater ( filament ) is doubling as cathode, i.e. the positive plate ( anode ) is ripping electrons directly from the heater filament, there is no dedicated cathode element.
Indirect means that there is a separate cathode element ( a sheet metal piece, like the plate more or less ), and a separate heater filament that heats the cathode by radiation, like "shining on it".
The purist single ended audiophiles normally as well have another added criteria for the amp being "creme-de-la-creme", namely that there should be No Global Negative Feedback, i.e. 0 % NFB in the main circuit, since that is alleged to;
A) Smear micro detail in the signal that is carrier of spatial audio qualities and fine nuances.
B) Cancels even order harmonics ( predominantely 2nd order ) generated by the output tubes, leaving only less well sounding odd order harmonics when amp is driven hard.
The direct heated part of the magic sauce is normally abbreviated DHT , Direct Heated Triode.
So, the "creme-de-la-creme" single ended tube amp should be DHT SET, with NO Negative Feedback.
By the way, I do believe that getting some basic tube inner topology knowledge is a good thing, for being able to navigate the tube jungle, and to get a grip on whether the seller knows the field he is operating in.
Not only the big 6C21 tube, but also the 845 and 805 are from the beginning radio transmitter tubes.
Thoroughly enjoyable. Thank you
Very nice collection and great seeing all kind of makers like EMLs and Hashimoto featured and dispelling the common BS floating around. Btw most push pull tube amps now are class A or AB.. nearly nobody I think does class B tube amps where you'd have the crossover distortion you mention.
Yeah and I think running push-pull amps biased as class AB has been a thing for quite a while. Pure class B hasn't been a thing for longer than I've been alive at the very least (I was born in 2007). Well, maybe in solid state car audio amps - pure class D made a comeback in amps designed just to push subwoofers / barkers / meowers / etc. as efficiently as possible, 10% THD be damned!
Good knowledge Mikey. Thank you
Looks like a lot of fun 😜💞
Nice display and explanation.
I used to love Tube Rolling and Listening to music at the same time in the Mid 70's with my Harmon Kardon Citation! Did have to let it cool down between sessions! 😉
best of the best audio channel!
This was a great video Mikey!! Someday would love to hear that monster
This is the coolest thing I've ever seen
Fracking Amazing video. 👏
👍 Great video.
As you say, it all depends on the sensitivity of the speaker. A 2A3 tube amp will give you the same audible output as a 300b tube amp if the speaker is 6 db more sensitive.
Looking forward to the follow up!
Wow! U got some treasure Sir!
Im a SET lover,i have a 300B Audion together with a Audiovector speaker,a dream match made in heaven,i have all the bass in the world.
I’m speechless !!!!
I fell in love with the Margules i240 tube amp powering Scansonics at Capital Audio Fest. I own those Scansonic mb6b and really tempted to get that amp. I think you mentioned you liked that amp/room.
Yes, liked the Margules room a lot
LOL. I love that, this puppy will heat your room in the winter time... as if you can find that tube amp, amazing. I wish I could hear these in person. I am starting to getthe tube bug, but not on this level. I would be curious what your recommendations for a new tube amp ( that is readily available on the market) would be. There is so many new tube amps available today, particularly from China.
By the way, my only experience with tubes is when I was a kid and having to go to my local pharmacy to get a replacement tube for the black and white TV console. I remember they had this kiosk where you would plug your old tube into a corresponding socket to figure out which tube you needed and then you would pick out the tube in a drawer under the socket display. This was around the late 60s, and it certainly left an impression on this kid's mind to this day.
Man, it's getting harder and harder. I'd stick with USA or European brands.
Gr8 vid. I had a pair of 805 S.E. mono amps, with 1 of the older 805's per amp & with a (scarily thin) wire that was anode connected & exited from the tubes top cap connector & back down into the Output Trannie ...I assume. I put them aside for a 80w class A amp because those tubes jobs didn't give a good low'end on a pair of very inefficient Audiostatic e/stats that were listed at (an optimistic) 83 db/watt/metre, but seemed to be quite lower than that) But when I tired of the e/stats, those amps sound glorious on vintage Tannoy 15" D.D. speakers (now 53 yrs old, made in 1969 & working fine (proof of gr8 engineering imo.) Tubes produce a seductively warm mollycoddling glorious sound, even the old vintage tube amps like Radfords (2xEL84's per side) or Rogers (EL84's per ch') or Quad's (2×KT66 a side) I grew up on those vintage amps which we cheap s/h buys before eBay came along. I very much prefer them compared to solid state if they have suitable speakers to play into. They draw me into the music better & can be analytical but in a delightful, cosy audio embrace. Never tried 300B's that would match my very efficient vintage Tannoys very well ...I reckon. I was most surprised at the vastly different looking 300B's available. I cannot imagine the best ones being less than expensive, still, tubes last longer than most people I've heard claim, I know from vintage tube amps I bought with original Mullards, still wotking fine after 30 to 50 years, tho I don't know how new ones might have improved the sound. I wouldn't be one of those guys who bought new tubes all round every 2 years or so. Pre,amp & low level signal tubes seem to me can last nearly forever! Power tubes I assume last least long, the do the hardest work, I suppose.
Enjoyed that
Wow awesome class on class a tube amps!! Thank you!
Had my Valve Audio Labs SET 211 based for past 27 years. Drive Tekton SET 15 sounds great.
I've had several really nice SS and Tube set ups and nothing in SS comes close to that window when tube amps are in their zone.
Micky - great video . Got my first 300 b amp 30 years ago when Dennis Had started Cary Audio . To clear up something 300b tubes are directly heated even if they dont have the wire on top. directed heated types, the cathode is the filament. For indirect heated types, the cathode and filament are separate elements. There are 3 common materials used: thoriated-tungsten, oxides, impregnated tungsten. The thoriated-tungsten type will give a nice glow like the common light bulbs. Some folks even took things to an extreme and used mercury vapor tubes as rectifiers - apparently they are incredible but highly dangerous if broken. I know that back in the day the thought was to pair the SET with a horn speaker such as the ALTEC 19 - which is what I did or a Voight tube speaker - not sure what modern speaker would give you the 100 db efficiency to really optimize them ?
If you own an older version of Cary’s 300SEI, MM de Capo BE by Reference 3A with high-quality stands [mine are from Star Sound Technologies] would sound great with your amp. Things you can do to dramatically upgrade the sound: I had my upgrades done through The Audio Connection in Seattle, a great stereo shop.
1) Exchange the fuses for Swiss Digital Fuse Boxes.
2) Duelund Silver Bypass Capacitors (they take around 300 hours to break in)
3) Clarity Capacitors
4) Cardas Binding Posts
5) Furutech IEC Inlet
6) High-Quality power cord
7) Upgraded tubes
8) DH LABS RCA Sockets
9) I clean all the contacts every 3 years with 99.9% isopropyl alcohol, using a foam tipped swab, then apply Furutech Nano Liquid.
i miss my hi gain audio-note 300b conqueror, the only 300b amp that came close to my kt120 v4 quicksilver's for sheer slam with rock music
What do you think about 211 tubes?
Those Huge Tubes bust be fun to watch and to listen to. I didn't know they had power tubes that big. Who makes those huge tubes power amps?! I would like to get one!
NAT Audio. I sell them.
That last amp looks like something from a 50's Science Fiction movie.
Ive heard some fast talking jump starting , creme dela creme mumbo jumbo but your definitely the most inaccurate. The top cap is an anode . A directly heated cathode is exactly that and it has nothing to do with having an anode cap. ⚡😂
Right he doesn’t know what he’s talking about
@@ColocasiaCormhe knows how to buy and sell though….
@Chuffin_ell you got it bro... lol..
I owned NAT Audio Generator mono-blocks, and the Symmetrical preamp back in 2010. Great gear, but not well known or supported in the US at that time.
True. Much different now.
Tube amps are probably the most beautiful of all amplifiers, but........
I have a wood stove for "heating" my house. lol
Hah....yeah... I had to retire my George Wright WPA 3.5 during the Summer months. Retired permanently now but man i miss that with the Sophia 300b's i had in there. Glorious sound and i can only imagine how great these amps and tubes sound that Mike is showing us in this vid! :)
Thoughts on the Decware amps Mikey?
@peter lockhart , I feel Decware is underpowered. Nice stuff tho.
Are you going to do a video on that modern breakthrough of a tube amp?
Coming up.
@@OCDHIFiGuy Coming up a year ago ?
So what your kinda saying is size really matters?
6c21 looks like a bong !
For real...
wow where is the link for that supper small 160-watt amp at the end of this video THANKS!!!
AGD audio. Very cool but not a tube amp so to speak.
Hi George a Video is coming. I have 2 pair for sale if interested. Just contact me.
Curious as to your opinion on the Graaf gm20?
Never heard it
I remember the vid on those big one's, thought you were going to roast a pig in there
I pulled a pair of Vienna acoustic mahler with a pp 300b with no problems. If the design is good enough. It can rock. There is a video of it on my old channel
Don't mind the quality. It's 14 years ago hehe.
All vac valve amps pp or single ended work in class A for the first couple of watts of output. So when using a hi sensitive speakers (which you should for those amps as they were made for them) your amp is basically using mini watts for most listening if say your speakers are say 102 dbl per w/m even at 105dbl they’d still be in classA. 105 dbl will fill a pretty good room. And if your pushing a 10 w push pull then at that level your not going to notice the distortion your talking about in fact you’ll probably be deaf.
I wish to one day have $100k worth of tube amp just loitering around my personal space. Dayum! Just selling the Canary amps could get me outta the debt hell im in, lol. Those are all sweet amps though brotha.
You don't need 100k tube amp to give you listening pleasure.
@@victorchiappetta3230 I'll tell you when I get mine !
WOW
I know , If you have to ask, you can't afford. But for fun, how much do the NAT Magma blocks run? The actual tubes can be bought reasonable, but the transformers are murder. I was wanting to build my own SET GM-100 tube amps. I started one that uses a 3-1000 triode. Just the filament transformer cost me 98 dollars. I was able to use a microwave oven transformer as my high tension. But will have to hand wind an output transformer.
@Joseph Eccles, both models are over $15K ...
@@OCDHIFiGuy the tunes have gone crazy since the war in Ukraine started. They were around 200 plus shipping, but now around 400 plus shipping.
@@josepheccles9341 good 300B tubes are $800 each. Some $1500. Original WE $5,000 each.
@@OCDHIFiGuy Yes, I have seen them. But they are pretty mainstream. I expect them to be kind of high. I build amps from unusual tubes. often TV tubes. My last was built from horizontal output tubes. Surprisingly, it sounds nice. Not a power monster, but single ended and really nice presence. I found the GM-100 tubes before I ever seen those monoblocks. I wanted to build one back then. All the stuff I build is super low-buck. I really envy your collection.
@@josepheccles9341 cool that you can build your own amps. I'd electrocute myself. Are you here in USA ?
Hello Mikey - What do you think about Lamm ML-2.2's using a 6C33C tube in SET? I think their output is 18 wpc. Thanks & you have a great channel.
Wow
Solidstate amps are mostly Push-Pull amps also but there are single-ended SS amps like the Pass Labs Aleph 1.2 for example.
There's no such thing as business amps and amps for fun in hifi. It's a created dichotomy. Tubes seem to have the edge on the midrange band and spaciouness. Solidstate has the slam and control over the low end. Just buy whatever you want as long as it gives value for money and it must be technically appropiate meaning you do not need a 500 Watts RMS on a 105 dB Hornloudspeaker or a SET on a Apogee Scintilla or other loudspeaker that has very low efficiency and a load that dips below 2 Ohms or so.
There are absolutely business amps, otherwise mastering studios would use tubes
There is one example of a single tube 'Spud' monoblock amplifier ~ Wavelength Audio's Mercury AVVT 20SL :)
Great !
Which ones of these are zero feedback designs?
@Full Ranger, NAT Audio.
Splatti pattyie spilatti spirum spazt gm70 😇
Exactly
One dealer told me that toobes are better than tubes but are more expensive.
LAMM ML3 Signature monoblocks - SET holy grail
NAT Audio Magma New for me...
Thanks for the rundown of your gear ! If there is one amp you should hear it is the David Berning 845 amp . It is his ultimate zero hysteresis output transformerless amp . $$$$$$$
I know they sound good, but is it reliable?
it is, livepro is very neutral, mind you that 64 sounds are in very bad quality so they might do better, might not
but just noticed that livepro actually slightly has 'signature' just like um ciems
both still in very flat territory and very reliable
Your description of class A push pull is incorrect. The tubes always draw current and there is no crossover distortion
Great, thanks !
You are right in that the quality of the OT's are key to great sound with tube amps. They don't make them like they used to (as well as tubes for that matter!) probably because of environmental issues. I agree that triode connected 6550's, KT-88's and EL-34's aren't superstars when triode connected but every tube is unique and some better than others. I have found that 807's can sound magical when triode connected. Also, don't sell short class A push-pull - they can sound amazing (yes, nuanced) if properly implemented. It's all about power supplies and implementation!
You're not going to tell us what the little amp is so we can search your videos for it?
AGD Production Audion.
833, T1610, WE212, GU81???
Why are you naming rare tubes nobody can get... FEH ! Waste of time.. You can get Chinese copies of WE 212 for $2200 per pair..lol... 833A ? lol... Do whatever you want , but GM100 are plentiful and $150 each..
Design in Driver stage - interstage coupling and power supply are what makes a great amp, not parts
Totally.... This amp uses industrial parts.
so why doesn't it have an industrial price? Profit motive and audiophile cred might have a small influence...
Okey, but calm down. Subjective is what it is. Always 🙂👍
@Jonas Dalqvist, I am passionate about what I do. Sorry. I'm not a slow person.
Handling Tubes without a Glove Professionally is a NO NO - Salt & grease from fingers deteriorate tubes quick;y
I learned this same thing many years ago. Immediately set off warning bells when I saw how these expensive babies were being handled.
@david Bryan Bartlett. I wipe tubes down before use. While they are sitting there it does not matter. Lol.
@Obi Baddad, warning bells ? Lol. Is it an emergency ?? ROFL
did you see Me turn them on ? My process for turning amps on starts with cleaning the tubes.
hey man a crap your driver tube is indirectly heated.
"jumpstart this puppy" What does that mean?
Turn it on.
SET'S are distortion machines.
I love SET distortion !! ❤️
No original or reissue Western Electric 300B. Your missing a lot
Lol.@Betel Geuse. You don't listen. (Typical youtuber) all you exist for is to find the negative. The AMP is a CLONE of a WE91A.. thats NOT a tube for your information. It's an AMPLIFIER MODEL. The tube I pulled out of it was NOT WE and I never said it was. By the way WE DID reissue the 300B a few years back anyways. Do your Homework.
11:13 Just because there's a cap on top it doesn't necessarily mean it's directly heated.
The 807 is a prime example. It has a plate (anode) cap on top. The cathode is at pin 4 and the tube is indirectly heated with the filament at pins 1 & 5.
Come on man, get your facts straight. I'm at the point where I'm starting to question everything you say or take your advice on tube distributers and look for a you-tuber that's been at this long enough to know the difference between directly heated and indirectly heated tubes.
Lol. Then get lost. It's called freedom of choice.. it's irrelevant to the listener if it's a cathode, anode or dildo... it's about the listening, silly. . But boy could I take advantage of you knowing you are sold using accurate tech spec for useless information.. any idiot can learn specification details, but putting together meaningful systems is elusive.. and who gives a crap about TH-cam ?? It's not at ALL what this hobby is about.
The biggest amp is using a 6n6p muddy input/driver tube 🤮. Guys, huge tube amps are sounding not better than a 2A3 or 300B amp. They have only some more power that’s all. Don’t spend your money for a huge amp. Instead, buy a good high efficient loudspeaker and enjoy your music.
2A3 ?? 😆 with horns ??? NOT for Rock & Roll !!!
Other than just anal retention or purism, is there really any compelling reason to NOT just use solid state rectification? I'm all about keeping the signal path itself all tooby, but having a tube rectifier doesn't seem (to my admittedly
Shall we address how much smarter class D is than tube ? Efficient ? Cost effective ? Right. People buy for different reasons that they think are important.
So…says he doesn’t know what’s what inside a tube such as the grid, plate etc and then tells people to buy from people who aren’t just selling tube amps and understand tubes 🤷🏽♂️
Well…at least he’s selling tube amps instead of just solid state. Otherwise it was a educational video
That makes absolutely no sense... can you try again please ?
Fast Eddie on TH-cam.
Only better
Bro your video quality is horrible
It’s a bit fuzzier in parts and very clear in others. Autofocus issues?
Hmmm, works great on my phone, but that doesn't mean a whole lot... 😁🥴
not impressive.
Decidabley biased presentation that is less than factual. Very poor job, you need some education.
Good that you don't have sweaty hands 😆
Lamm ML3 ❤
God Bless Vladimir
@@OCDHIFiGuy love your videos Mikey 😊 Thank you for your dedication and time.