I can watch this Chris Harris for hours (and I do). Unlike the other Chris Harris on ‘Top Gear’ etc. Many thanks for this informative and entertaining series.
Thank you! I just picked up a 1973 R 75/5 that was last started in 1999. I drained te old stinky gas, changed all the fluids (engine, tranny, drive shaft, rear end) and installed a new battery. Bike started and runs!!! But it is clattering on the right side cylinder. Your video is very helpful! Thanks so much!!
Thanks Chris, I'm new to airheads & am (slowly) learning to work on my '85 R80G/S. Now attempting my first valve adjustment and found the right side exhaust is way too loose with a lot of end play. Very helpful that you covered that issue. Thanks!
Thank you so much Chris for your videos. I always wanted to fix my own bike, now you have given me the tutorial and courage to do it. It was such a well put together that made it clear and informative. Thanks again. Big time fan.Greg BMW 1972 75-5
thankyou for this vid ive been messing around all morning trying to do my clearances just sat down to have a coffee, I thought i would have a look on youtube for a vid about valve clearances i found this and the moment you opened that window that shows tdc i jumped out of my seat and ran to my bike pulled it open and there it was THANKYOU SO FREEKIN MUCH, i have had this bike for about 3 years and regularly checked the oil and never noticed that rubber bung, you have just made my life so much easier
"aww for god's sake"! chris harris is everyone's favorite uncle. the one that tells the real stories about our dad. we all have that guy...or wish we did.
Great videos on all your work mate much appreciated for the help with my r100/7 rebuild. Brings all the info to a working mans level thanks again. Steve ,Australia.
Thanks for another great video. I'll be doing this on my channel on my newly acquired '78 R80/7 soon. I'd heard that you had to loosen and retorque the heads every clearance check. You might have just saved Jay a fortune... :) -jaysbigadventure
Chris I really like all your videos, I have a BMW motocycle and whenever I need to fix something on it I watch your videos thank you for all the great information you give in your videos.
Search 'BMW Service - Oilhead Valve Adjustment' Also search 'BMW Service - Angle Torque / valve adjustment @ 600 mile service' All Oilheads are the same procedure but do not perform the cylinder head Angle Torque unless your machine only has 600 miles on it or you have had the cylinder heads (not the covers) off 600 miles ago.
Hi, When you remove the feeler gauge there will certainly be a little bit of play between the tip of the rocker arm and the head of the valve stem. Thanks, Chris
i'm learning much sensei and we figured out the bosch D Jetronic system, yay, i fixed a vacuum leak, and it began to start and idle much better, smooth like buttah
Hi, You need to remove the transmission. Since TH-cam doesn't allow us to post links please search BMW Service - R100 Spline Lube Part 1 of 4 for instructions to remove the transmission. Good luck, Chris
It is quite rare to find not enough rocker arm end-play on an Airhead. But if you were to come cross such a situation you'd be correct to loosen one nut and tap the rocker arm in the direction of the loosened nut. Then re-torque and inspect. Thanks for the question.
Each 360 degree rotation of the crankshaft from Top Dead Center brings the other cylinder to Top Dead Center so yes, if you have adjusted one side and rotated the crank 360 degrees the side that you had already adjusted will likely have no clearance because that cylinder is no longer at TDC, the opposing cylinder, however, is at TDC.
Chris Harris, i fucked up and did the left side first, then rotated 360 deg to the next OT, and tried doing the right side. Will this work or do I have to start again
No, replace the adjuster if it is stripped. Failure to replace it could result in movement of the adjuster and closing of the clearance. This would result in a burnt or broken valve and an expensive repair.
What did I say @ 2:14? You are correct in that the fiche shows merely a wave washer. However, the majority of Airheads that I have serviced over the past 20 years have had combinations of wave, flat, double flat, double wave, etc. Often a customer instsalled flat washers to the wave washers for whatever personal reason. I am not one to 'correct' that if there is no harm in the practice of using a flat along w/ a wave washer. Therefore, as I stated, many times you find... but all are not needed.
Yes, but it will be messy!! Unlike a Ural the BMW engines will sling oil all over the place. And it will also sound weird due to the sucking / blowing noise of the crankcase vent. Put the covers on with just the center nut for testing. You'll be fine.
Chris, Since yesterday I have re-done the valve clearances THREE TIMES and they still aren't right. Each time there's an almighty clatter from the left hand cylinder head. After the failed second attempt, I whipped off the rocker cover to find the exhaust valve clearance of about 4mm instead of 0.2mm. Yet I am certain I set them correctly. I think the problem is that when the OT is in the window, which side gets adjusted? This isn't clear in the video, and unless I know, I shall keep repeating this mistake. So I adjust the valves at TDC on the compression stroke? How do I now it's the compression stroke and not the inlet stroke?
Thanks for the video; so you show the procedure for too much rocker end play; what if there's no play/ oil seepage- just loosen one bolt & wiggle a bit? sorry if that's a dumb question...
Got all clearances adjusted except for one. I think the lock nut on the left side exhaust is stripped. Won't back all the off so the only way for it to sit is so the clearance is completely touching the spring area. Is this ok.
Hi Chris, thanks for all the effort you took to make and upload these tutorials. So far still looking on a way to remove the engine out of the frame of my '83 R80 rt. Disassambled everything exept gearbox and timingchain cover. Coult you advise me what the best way is to do so? Thanks!
Last thing. Adjusted clearance on right side of the bike, rotated wheel and adjusted left side. When I looked at the right side the clearance changed drastically. Is that normal?
Hey Chris, great video, wish it was longer. Couple of questions. In the 7 minute range when you are adjusting the valves with the butter knife things, should the re not be any play? I can't seem to lock it so it stays in place. I followed your instructions at minute 9 as far as tightening but there is still a little movement. The clearance is .20 mm for the exhaust but when I remove the butter knife thing I can jiggle it and it closes the gap. Do I just need to tighten it more?
I have 1979 r65, I have spun the wheel in top gear and I only see a Z or sideways N....no OT like you say and manual says. And some big dots. So which is TDC on mine. Did the older airheads do it differently??? Please lmk. Thanks
Not exactly sure what the problem is ... but engine very noisy... I hear clanking on idle but noise decreases with engine speed. I did have the right side barrel off and found no problem with rings, barrel or piston. Piston pin a little loose in bushing .. Ring gap about .026" I know that big end bearing was about 1/2 worn when I looked at it about 5k miles ago. Engine has almost 200k km. on it At end of video you will hear the clank better. put this into youtube search ..BYNd_dX6rDU
Thanks, great video! I recently bought a used R100R ('91) and tried adjusting the valves this weekend. Left side was no issue, went really smooth. Right side not so much. The valves were a bit thightened up, so I tried to loosen the lock nut. It turned through and I managed to damage the screw thread on the left adjustment bolt. Right now I'm trying to get it out of the rocker arm without damaging it. Any tips on avoiding this in the future? And on how to remove the damaged bolt?
Amazing videos. Huge thanks from overseas. One question I can't find an answer to is what to replace if the double 12mm bolts on the valve adjuster have been threaded? What part is it called. Eeek! Lou
hello, but when I put the pistons in ot, they are both at the top dead center (one will be at the end of the discharge process and one at the end of the intake) both valves are closed. so why do I have to rotate the tree 360 degrees between one cylinder and another? thanks
great video. i have a 1971 R75/5. it makes a nasty knocking at the right side intake valve, but runs great. u say all Airheads follow this same procedure. i have also heard that some models used shim washers to deal with this end play. any thoughts on that?
Hello Chris, I am doing a valve adjustment on a 1973 R75/5 and was wondering if you could explain something for me. First is top gear you mean the highest gear correct ? I have a 4speed so it will be 4th gear? And also how do I know which side to adjust first ? Sorry I'm new to these airheads and I am trying to learn. Thanks, abe
Also, when putting covers back on to test, does it matter what order I put everything back together? Spark plugs in then cover on or does it not make a difference.
Exactly what I needed to know to do the job without the fluff that most people put in videos. Thank you Chris!
Well said Brandon
I can watch this Chris Harris for hours (and I do). Unlike the other Chris Harris on ‘Top Gear’ etc. Many thanks for this informative and entertaining series.
You are most welcome, thanks.
Thank you Chris. I've got an air head and a k bike, you've saved me £100s in garage bills with these crystal clear vids
Thank you! I just picked up a 1973 R 75/5 that was last started in 1999. I drained te old stinky gas, changed all the fluids (engine, tranny, drive shaft, rear end) and installed a new battery. Bike started and runs!!! But it is clattering on the right side cylinder. Your video is very helpful! Thanks so much!!
Thank you! I am happy to have been able to help, Chris
Thanks Chris, I'm new to airheads & am (slowly) learning to work on my '85 R80G/S. Now attempting my first valve adjustment and found the right side exhaust is way too loose with a lot of end play. Very helpful that you covered that issue. Thanks!
thank you for the excellent narration on this.... walked through step. Tremendous resource, thank you again!
Thank you so much Chris for your videos. I always wanted to fix my own bike, now you have given me the tutorial and courage to do it. It was such a well put together that made it clear and informative. Thanks again. Big time fan.Greg BMW 1972 75-5
thankyou for this vid ive been messing around all morning trying to do my clearances just sat down to have a coffee, I thought i would have a look on youtube for a vid about valve clearances i found this and the moment you opened that window that shows tdc i jumped out of my seat and ran to my bike pulled it open and there it was THANKYOU SO FREEKIN MUCH, i have had this bike for about 3 years and regularly checked the oil and never noticed that rubber bung, you have just made my life so much easier
Chris you are the best thanks to your videos, I did everything by myself !!!
Thanks Chris I just bought an 83 r65 for my wife and it sounds really loud. I'm going to do this pronto. I appreciate your simple no nonsense ways.
Excellent videos, very informative Chris. I'm most grateful to you for taking your valuable time to make them. XXX from Brazil
Very god information that I needed, thank you for your course.You are a very good teacher
Thank you Patrick! While not a replacement for owning a Clymer manual I appreciate your sentiment. Thank you, Chris
Priceless and you say it as it is! Thanks a lot Chris
Thanks so much. Did push rod seals and now valves are loud I adjusted them to no avail. Now I need to adjust rocker end play. You showed me the way!
Thank you for taking the time to make videos like this!
"aww for god's sake"! chris harris is everyone's favorite uncle. the one that tells the real stories about our dad. we all have that guy...or wish we did.
Hi Chris. Thanks for this video, kept t in my head while adjusting the valves on my R80 last night.
Thanks Chris. Excellent as always. Much appreciated.
Great videos on all your work mate much appreciated for the help with my r100/7 rebuild.
Brings all the info to a working mans level thanks again.
Steve ,Australia.
Great video! I always heard the airheads were fairly easy to work on. You just showed that to be the case. THanks.
I'm off out to check mine now, cheers for a great and clear instructions Chris
Thanks mate, I had forgot how to do this and your video helped me get it again right away. All good.
Thanks for the vids bros...I learn something new from every vid you make...From UK
Thanks. Stay tuned; there will be more soon, Chris
Thanks for another great video. I'll be doing this on my channel on my newly acquired '78 R80/7 soon. I'd heard that you had to loosen and retorque the heads every clearance check. You might have just saved Jay a fortune... :) -jaysbigadventure
Very informative , straightforward.
Chris , Your the man! Thanks for your video's
that Help us out !!! Take care Brother!
Chris I really like all your videos, I have a BMW motocycle and whenever I need to fix something on it I watch your videos thank you for all the great information you give in your videos.
I have not yet! I hope to have one here to video in the near future. Thanks, Chris
Search 'BMW Service - Oilhead Valve Adjustment'
Also search
'BMW Service - Angle Torque / valve adjustment @ 600 mile service'
All Oilheads are the same procedure but do not perform the cylinder head Angle Torque unless your machine only has 600 miles on it or you have had the cylinder heads (not the covers) off 600 miles ago.
A goldmine of information.
Hi, When you remove the feeler gauge there will certainly be a little bit of play between the tip of the rocker arm and the head of the valve stem. Thanks, Chris
Very informative. Tomorrow doing the valves and carb sync on the '82 R100RT and the '78 R100RS. I like to review with you prior to doing it.
Sounds great!
Great Video. Many thanks from Australia.
I'm always looking for your videos you always have a good information!! Thank you
You are welcome, Bambino. Stay tuned for more, Chris
i'm learning much sensei and we figured out the bosch D Jetronic system, yay, i fixed a vacuum leak, and it began to start and idle much better, smooth like buttah
Yes, all the Airheads have the same specs and procedures. The Oilheads are different though. Thanks, Chris
That is on my list of future videos. Thank you.
Excellent..keep them coming Chris !!!
Hi, You need to remove the transmission. Since TH-cam doesn't allow us to post links please search BMW Service - R100 Spline Lube Part 1 of 4 for instructions to remove the transmission. Good luck, Chris
It is quite rare to find not enough rocker arm end-play on an Airhead. But if you were to come cross such a situation you'd be correct to loosen one nut and tap the rocker arm in the direction of the loosened nut. Then re-torque and inspect. Thanks for the question.
Yea man, well done. This is like Clymer in live action.
Hi Chris, just know that you mean a lot to me, trying to fix up my crappy old r80/7 !
Each 360 degree rotation of the crankshaft from Top Dead Center brings the other cylinder to Top Dead Center so yes, if you have adjusted one side and rotated the crank 360 degrees the side that you had already adjusted will likely have no clearance because that cylinder is no longer at TDC, the opposing cylinder, however, is at TDC.
Chris Harris, i fucked up and did the left side first, then rotated 360 deg to the next OT, and tried doing the right side. Will this work or do I have to start again
No, replace the adjuster if it is stripped. Failure to replace it could result in movement of the adjuster and closing of the clearance. This would result in a burnt or broken valve and an expensive repair.
What did I say @ 2:14? You are correct in that the fiche shows merely a wave washer. However, the majority of Airheads that I have serviced over the past 20 years have had combinations of wave, flat, double flat, double wave, etc. Often a customer instsalled flat washers to the wave washers for whatever personal reason. I am not one to 'correct' that if there is no harm in the practice of using a flat along w/ a wave washer. Therefore, as I stated, many times you find... but all are not needed.
Thank you
I have R100R class and I love it!!! I want to be the only one to work on it, So Thank you agin I just Subscribed to your you tub channel.
hey junk, do you still have your r100r ?
You are very welcome. There will be much more this fall/winter.
Thanks Chris for the video I have R100 need ajuste Valve.
You are very welcome, Ariel.
Some models use shim washers. You can purchase new shafts and rockers for about $300. A worthwhile investment for a 75,000+ mile Airhead.
Chris Harris
Happy to have helped :)
You're welcome Ken, Chris
Not yet. It is not a difficult process to rebuild the calipers though.
Nice machine gun! :-)
Yes, but it will be messy!! Unlike a Ural the BMW engines will sling oil all over the place. And it will also sound weird due to the sucking / blowing noise of the crankcase vent. Put the covers on with just the center nut for testing. You'll be fine.
Chris: the BMW fiche only shows a wave washer on the valve cover studs. I've never seen two washers, even on new airheads.
Thanks very much it was excellent.
Thank you Al!
That guy is hilarious!! Very informative video!!
Hey, thanks! Stay tuned for new material, Chris
Chris, Since yesterday I have re-done the valve clearances THREE TIMES and they still aren't right. Each time there's an almighty clatter from the left hand cylinder head. After the failed second attempt, I whipped off the rocker cover to find the exhaust valve clearance of about 4mm instead of 0.2mm. Yet I am certain I set them correctly. I think the problem is that when the OT is in the window, which side gets adjusted? This isn't clear in the video, and unless I know, I shall keep repeating this mistake. So I adjust the valves at TDC on the compression stroke? How do I now it's the compression stroke and not the inlet stroke?
Thanks for the video; so you show the procedure for too much rocker end play; what if there's no play/ oil seepage- just loosen one bolt & wiggle a bit? sorry if that's a dumb question...
Got all clearances adjusted except for one. I think the lock nut on the left side exhaust is stripped. Won't back all the off so the only way for it to sit is so the clearance is completely touching the spring area. Is this ok.
This one is rather rough but thanks! I'll do another at a later date.
hope all is well Chris. also hope its warming up at your new place
It is, thank you!
Hi Chris, thanks for all the effort you took to make and upload these tutorials. So far still looking on a way to remove the engine out of the frame of my '83 R80 rt. Disassambled everything exept gearbox and timingchain cover. Coult you advise me what the best way is to do so? Thanks!
Last thing. Adjusted clearance on right side of the bike, rotated wheel and adjusted left side. When I looked at the right side the clearance changed drastically. Is that normal?
Excellent!
Thanks Wim Bon!
2nd, can I start the bike up without putting the covers back on to see if it still works, sounds right? Thanks, you're awesome.
Hey Chris, great video, wish it was longer. Couple of questions. In the 7 minute range when you are adjusting the valves with the butter knife things, should the re not be any play? I can't seem to lock it so it stays in place. I followed your instructions at minute 9 as far as tightening but there is still a little movement. The clearance is .20 mm for the exhaust but when I remove the butter knife thing I can jiggle it and it closes the gap. Do I just need to tighten it more?
Great wording of the video.
Excellent!
I have 1979 r65, I have spun the wheel in top gear and I only see a Z or sideways N....no OT like you say and manual says. And some big dots. So which is TDC on mine. Did the older airheads do it differently??? Please lmk. Thanks
Perfect ...thanks bro !!!
Hi Garth,
Andre Extra Dry champagne. Thanks! ;)
Perfectly fine without the swearing.
Not exactly sure what the problem is ... but engine very noisy... I hear clanking on idle but noise decreases with engine speed.
I did have the right side barrel off and found no problem with rings, barrel or piston.
Piston pin a little loose in bushing ..
Ring gap about .026"
I know that big end bearing was about 1/2 worn when I looked at it about 5k miles ago.
Engine has almost 200k km. on it
At end of video you will hear the clank better.
put this into youtube search ..BYNd_dX6rDU
Thanks, great video! I recently bought a used R100R ('91) and tried adjusting the valves this weekend. Left side was no issue, went really smooth. Right side not so much.
The valves were a bit thightened up, so I tried to loosen the lock nut. It turned through and I managed to damage the screw thread on the left adjustment bolt. Right now I'm trying to get it out of the rocker arm without damaging it. Any tips on avoiding this in the future? And on how to remove the damaged bolt?
Amazing videos. Huge thanks from overseas.
One question I can't find an answer to is what to replace if the double 12mm bolts on the valve adjuster have been threaded? What part is it called. Eeek! Lou
hello, but when I put the pistons in ot, they are both at the top dead center (one will be at the end of the discharge process and one at the end of the intake) both valves are closed. so why do I have to rotate the tree 360 degrees between one cylinder and another? thanks
Thank you Sensei
You are welcome.
Hi, could I use paper or silicone gasket sheets to make new valve cover gaskets if I need them or should I just order new ones?
great video. i have a 1971 R75/5. it makes a nasty knocking at the right side intake valve, but runs great.
u say all Airheads follow this same procedure. i have also heard that some models used shim washers to deal with this end play. any thoughts on that?
I'm wondering if you have a video on rebuilding ATE calipers and or master cylinders? That's my next job... Thanks!!
Thanks Van! :)
Chris Harris, are you in NH? I was wondering if you still have a shop I may have some work for you thanks
Very helpful. Thanks!
You're welcome!
My manual (BMW user manual) has these torque values: 15Nm/25Nm/35Nm.
Should I torq the 3rd time to 40Nm? Why?
Perfect video
Awesome video chris ! Do you have video on replace the points on r60/2
Hey Chris, thank you for the video it's great! I have an R65 is't the same process?
Those champagne bottles are heavy!
Is there a State store near you? (They have those in New Hampshire?)
Hello Chris, I am doing a valve adjustment on a 1973 R75/5 and was wondering if you could explain something for me. First is top gear you mean the highest gear correct ? I have a 4speed so it will be 4th gear? And also how do I know which side to adjust first ? Sorry I'm new to these airheads and I am trying to learn. Thanks, abe
Also, when putting covers back on to test, does it matter what order I put everything back together? Spark plugs in then cover on or does it not make a difference.
Yes, informative.
This procedure should be done every 3500 miles?? Seems excessive
great video..does everything apply the same way to a 1975 75/6
thanks Chris
Thanks man.
You are most welcome.
Compression stroke being when the springs are "compressed" down?
Hey Chris,
Do you have a video showing how to do the valve adjustment etc on a 2001 1150 GS?
Thank you!
Marcel