Don't use a hammer on the wheel lock you will damage the gears!!! You should be able to do it with your toe!!! If it's that hard to lock up then have the 3 axils taken apart and clean the rust inside and out while your cleaning then end be a good time to do the gear area as well just being careful taking it apart to put it back together the exact same way and put new grease in there as well!! But I have that feeling that since you hammered the locknut you all ready Chip the teeth on the gears... good luck trying to find them there is not much available anymore from the factory... I do have one parts snow blower all ready dismantled and cleaned up the motor was destroyed but the rest of the blower is all together and waiting for a motor I will be looking for another parts one this spring this was my father's '73 JD snow blower after he passed I got it and plan to pass it on to my son... Nothing Runs Like A Deere
What year is your 7 26 I have a 1973 7 26 did a complete renovation and rebuild tore every nut and bolt apart only thing now is to fide carburetor heater box top decal photo so I can have new one made up..
@@RealManSkills hey, no problem.. i like to troll the internet in my spare time. my brother keeps breaking a sheer pin in the driveshaft.. any thoughts
@@robertthompson227 Since shear pins are meant to break when the auger hits something hard, he's either hitting something, or maybe (and this is a guess) his auger is not turning smoothly. Is everything auger related properly lubricated? Are the auger bearings worn out?
@@robertthompson227 Has it ever been taken apart and rebuilt I have a feeling that it is starting to seize they should come apart and clean the rust and regreased all the 3 shafts and dismantle the gears well and clean it out and regreased as well only thing is watch how to take it apart to put back the same way on assembly it is very tricky it took me three times before I got it right the 4 gears Hane to be lined up perfectly I used Lucas red & tacky grease and greased it well same with the axils I cleaned inside & outside used never seize and then grease as well works as good as new now it was starting to get stuff after 50 year's of age but I would never ever get rid of it the new one are just plan crap!!! I'd buy another one just for parts if I had to.. I also put drift cutters off a '90s model made them fit & I made up an impeller kit rubber and bent up some metal to bolt it down the rubber paddles almost touch the drum part of the impeller area that is a big improvement moving wet slushy snow that is very heavy out of the 50 from my Father then to me the only major repair was last year putting on a new electric starter the motor was never opened up only cleaned the carburetor and new muffler because of rust.. the whole snow blower was repainted JD Green Tremclad and Tremclad Yellow I was trying to find Tremclad JD Yellow in enamel but it was not available at the time only waterbase don't worry I did spray paint it so it looks just like new again in the future I will have all the decals made up there not available anymore from the factory but I have the photos of them and measurements to be honest with you that snow blower went through hell and back survived quite a few major snow storms and helping to push cars that got slightly stuck... I also notched the front Auger blades in 3 spots for each blade to help cut through the hard snow after the snow plow goes by the end of the driveway it usually goes through snow higher than the drift cutters I picked up a piece of 1" angle and welded it to the top of the drift cutters to join the together to cut through the snow once I'm underneath a push down on the handlebars to break the snow above it to fall into the auger blades I really move a lot of snow with old machine...
Usually when people don't want to do 4, they just do 2 to keep the impeller balanced. I've seen that X on a lot of John Deeres, but it always looks like an add-on to me. When you take it apart, you can see their original intent was a limited slip effect, so I would guess they intended to have that friction disc tightened to a specified torque and left at that. Then either the factory decided that it wasn't adequate or maybe an after market company came out with that(that's how locking hubs got invented for 4x4 trucks. That was an aftermarket thing). If their intent was full lock up, I think they would have just used that locking pin like Ariens did, since those years were made by Ariens for John Deere anyway. Unless maybe there was some sort of patent or marketing issues. I guess you can never discount all the behind-the-scenes negotiating that goes on.
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Don't use a hammer on the wheel lock you will damage the gears!!! You should be able to do it with your toe!!!
If it's that hard to lock up then have the 3 axils taken apart and clean the rust inside and out while your cleaning then end be a good time to do the gear area as well just being careful taking it apart to put it back together the exact same way and put new grease in there as well!!
But I have that feeling that since you hammered the locknut you all ready Chip the teeth on the gears... good luck trying to find them there is not much available anymore from the factory...
I do have one parts snow blower all ready dismantled and cleaned up the motor was destroyed but the rest of the blower is all together and waiting for a motor I will be looking for another parts one this spring this was my father's '73 JD snow blower after he passed I got it and plan to pass it on to my son...
Nothing Runs Like A Deere
Thanks for the info! I have one on my 726
Thank you for watching!
What year is your 7 26 I have a 1973 7 26 did a complete renovation and rebuild tore every nut and bolt apart only thing now is to fide carburetor heater box top decal photo so I can have new one made up..
You didn't show me why that differential is important. You said you would
I pretty much explain right away at 0:50 . The ability to free wheel or lock both wheels together for more pushing power. Sorry for the confusion.
@@RealManSkills hey, no problem.. i like to troll the internet in my spare time. my brother keeps breaking a sheer pin in the driveshaft.. any thoughts
@@robertthompson227 Since shear pins are meant to break when the auger hits something hard, he's either hitting something, or maybe (and this is a guess) his auger is not turning smoothly. Is everything auger related properly lubricated? Are the auger bearings worn out?
@@robertthompson227
Has it ever been taken apart and rebuilt I have a feeling that it is starting to seize they should come apart and clean the rust and regreased all the 3 shafts and dismantle the gears well and clean it out and regreased as well only thing is watch how to take it apart to put back the same way on assembly it is very tricky it took me three times before I got it right the 4 gears Hane to be lined up perfectly I used Lucas red & tacky grease and greased it well same with the axils I cleaned inside & outside used never seize and then grease as well works as good as new now it was starting to get stuff after 50 year's of age but I would never ever get rid of it the new one are just plan crap!!!
I'd buy another one just for parts if I had to.. I also put drift cutters off a '90s model made them fit & I made up an impeller kit rubber and bent up some metal to bolt it down the rubber paddles almost touch the drum part of the impeller area that is a big improvement moving wet slushy snow that is very heavy out of the 50 from my Father then to me the only major repair was last year putting on a new electric starter the motor was never opened up only cleaned the carburetor and new muffler because of rust.. the whole snow blower was repainted JD Green Tremclad and Tremclad Yellow I was trying to find Tremclad JD Yellow in enamel but it was not available at the time only waterbase don't worry I did spray paint it so it looks just like new again in the future I will have all the decals made up there not available anymore from the factory but I have the photos of them and measurements to be honest with you that snow blower went through hell and back survived quite a few major snow storms and helping to push cars that got slightly stuck...
I also notched the front Auger blades in 3 spots for each blade to help cut through the hard snow after the snow plow goes by the end of the driveway it usually goes through snow higher than the drift cutters I picked up a piece of 1" angle and welded it to the top of the drift cutters to join the together to cut through the snow once I'm underneath a push down on the handlebars to break the snow above it to fall into the auger blades I really move a lot of snow with old machine...
Usually when people don't want to do 4, they just do 2 to keep the impeller balanced.
I've seen that X on a lot of John Deeres, but it always looks like an add-on to me. When you take it apart, you can see their original intent was a limited slip effect, so I would guess they intended to have that friction disc tightened to a specified torque and left at that. Then either the factory decided that it wasn't adequate or maybe an after market company came out with that(that's how locking hubs got invented for 4x4 trucks. That was an aftermarket thing). If their intent was full lock up, I think they would have just used that locking pin like Ariens did, since those years were made by Ariens for John Deere anyway. Unless maybe there was some sort of patent or marketing issues. I guess you can never discount all the behind-the-scenes negotiating that goes on.