Blue Yeti Not Detected, Broken USB - LFC
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- Check out Adamant IT 2 for the Pod Cast and More: / adamantit2
I stream on games Thursdays and Sundays, 7pm UK: / nethesem
Join the Discord right here: / discord
Support the channel directly at: / adamantit
Follow us on Twitter at: / adamantit
Check out our Instagram at: / adamant.it
![[[OFFICIAL MV]] เอิ้นขวัญให้อ้าย- อ๊ะอาย สกุณาพร | ค่ายเพลงเป็นหนึ่ง](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/83x6L3X3qh0/mqdefault.jpg)
Your a very well spoken tech. Really enjoy your channel. I have been involved in the electronic field since the mid 1970’s. For over 30 years in HVAC also. Cheers from the USA.
You're a brave man pulling on the knobs like that. If I'd tried that I would almost certainly have broken something.
Knowing how much force you can use is really tough to gauge, and the hardest thing to teach! Sometimes you also know that if you don't fix it, the customer is probably going to bin it, so you may as well full-send.
@@Adamant_IT Which microscope or camera do you use?
I had a problem with a hand-me-down Blue Yeti not being detected by windows, most online guides fix mostly software issues with the mic not being recognized. Im glad I came across your video because it led me to check the pins of the USB. After probing the pins slightly with my fingernail (yes you read that right) I managed to get it to work! Still probably a good idea to get it changed but it should remedy for now, thanks a bunch!
Great save of what would have otherwise ended up as e-waste. It's not the best mic in the world, not even at the price point, but it's still fine as an everyday workhorse for most people. Very neat repair, nicely done video too.
This might be my new favorite channel... great stuff man!
Loads of people have a Blue Yeti because they are so good. I stand mine on a soft neoprene coaster and it isolates it very well. I plugged my headphones in to it to see how well the coaster worked and it's sorted, no desk or keyboard noise. :) The sound quality of these depends on reading the instructions. People will try and talk in to the top, stand it upright and use the sides, whatever side is appropriate, mainly the front.
A trick for who like me own this pretty device. If you install it on a bracket like Rode ones, be sure to not tender too much the usb cable on the staff, otherwise it will break the mini-usb jack or mini-usb door on the microphone.
I have one of these Blue Yeti mics... I personally have mine sitting on my PC case and since I don't touch that much, I haven't had any issues with noise transferring through to the mic. I was looking at getting a mic stand for it at some point, but since it works fine where it is presently, I haven't pushed the issue, since I don't really need it more than want it. Glad to see someone else taking one apart and seeing what needs to be done, just in case I need to in the future for some reason.
Thanks for the informative video. I'm actually glad that they used quite a few through hole components on this mic... it should help with the longevity of the device.
These videos are extremely helpful for understanding how things work/can be fixed. Also I have to say the endings of the videos I find are usually quite hilarious. Keep up the good work man!
Reminds me, recently I ripped the headphone socket off a DAC board I had. Took one of the pads (left channel) with it. Still no left after resoldering, so I endedup with a bodge wire soldered to the next best place on the circuit. Works fine. Funny thing though, I was thinking which box my insulated mod wire was in and instead picked up one of those wire twists that keeps the cable neat when you buy new products. Worked perfectly.
Real potentiometers! That's quite a sight these days.
When I first started my channel, I used several blue yeti microphones and they worked pretty well. I eventually graduated to a Röde Procaster/Cloud Lifter/Focusrite setup which has been much better, but of course cost a lot more money. If you got the cash, I highly recommend. SM7b sound at a fraction of the price.
To remove stubborn knobs wrap a single layer of some substantial cloth around the know and then grip it somewhat gently with a pair of slip joint pliers. Give a firm tug and the knob should come off neatly without marring any surfaces.
I've got the same job to do on a HyperX microphone, same mini USB B port that's broken. I like your videos by the way. Thanks for the upload
I got one of these sitting on a shelf, probably with the same problem. Maybe I'll fix it one day.
You should get a pair of rubber coated pliers, that would probably be perfect for not scratching the knobs.
Exellent job adam as allways
I have the Blue Ice and love it for OBS and general game streaming or chat. The Yeti was on my list with a boom arm but since the ICE has worked so well for a lower end mic I have yet to make the purchase. Great video!
Actually there are 3 pickup mics, not two...
Heartbeat increasing disassembly 👍👍👍
That's a bit of a hipster mindset. Disliking something just because everyone has one. Both those microphones are very good
What did you charge for this relatively straightforward repair?
Thanks for the content.
Keep up the good work.
בס״ד
Hey man, just wanna point out, that for these smaller jobs, low melting solder (137C) in the joints, plus paste flux and a copper wick will work much better than the desoldering gun, leave the gun for the big TH's! Great video, and please, install some exaustion system for the soldering fumes, those are gonna destroy your lungs for real.
@Mr Guru Chipquick is really expensive, and has even lower temp than 137c, but you can find 137C solder in aliexpress for really cheap almost the same price as regular lead solder, and it really helps with desoldering, not that much of a hassle to stock one roll, but yeah, not necessary, but it does help
@@gmhardware Solders with 63Sn/37Pb alloy have a low melting point, that is, they become liquid; at 183 degrees Celsius all of them. I will name 4 manufacturers: AIM, Chip Quik, Kester & MG Chemicals.
A.I.M.: Model 13154
Chip Quik: Models SMDSW.020 80Z and SMDSW.031 80Z
MG Chemicals: Model 4860-18 (0.6 Oz)
I use low melting point 60/40 alloy solder [183 ‒ 191] degrees Celsius and any flux (both of the cheapest) to remove any electronic component.
When installing a new replacement component I choose Kester brand (63Sn/37Pb alloy) Model 24-6040-0027 even though it is very expensive. If you do a lot of solder work the most sensible thing to do is to get a 1 lb spool and it will last you for many repairs and you will always have the assurance that you used excellent quality solder (no one dares to argue that they are not the standard in the welding industry). Another way of saying it, who disputes the quality of a Fluke multimeter or a Tektronix Oscilloscope? Of course these brands of instruments are NOT cheap either.
To begin to become familiar with this type of solder and to practice experimentally; the MG Chemicals mentioned above is around $10 US. Thank you very much for your comment because it motivates us to investigate. All the best.
I barrowed one of these from a friend. They just seem too sensitive. Having to run vst plugins is a pita. I scored an AT2020USB+ off ebay for $40, but that on a cheap neewer arm and shock mount. Works great.
I finally got a desolder gun a couple weeks back and "makes life easier" is what it's all about. Is it necessary? Probably not, strictly speaking. But it makes a fiddly and annoying task that can eat up a lot of time go by in a minute or two tops.
If you're on a budget or don't see yourself using one much, they make hollow-tip irons with a manual solder sucker that work reasonably well, far better than a standard iron and solder sucker. The annular tip that fits around the pin makes all the difference and it's hard to beat the $15 price tag, especially for how much aggravation it avoids.
Haha funny thing, made same EXACT video 2 days ago on my channel (but in French language). Great repair :)
unfortunetly leaving slightly marks on things is almost guarenteed when doing repairs as lots of products arent designed to be taken apart :( Dont beat yourself up over it
Yea, most of the time deft hands will avoid marks, but as you say, some products are just not built to be disassembled.
your mic is much better ballanced
When I need to take something apart I look on TH-cam to see if someone has published a video on how to do it, and there is a video for this microphone.
Hot air is your friend when removing buttons and knobs. Softens up glue and makes the button expand a little bit. Use with discretion though.
Maybe for some instances but on these knobs the shafts were unusually long. Any thermal transfer would be negligible and heat would have just warped them.
Knobs such as these do not depend on any sort of adhesive to keep them in place. They will typically have a piece of metal that is the same shape as the control shaft. When properly placed they create an interference fit that is somewhat tight.
@@SerenoOunce I have good experience using hot air for removing knobs from encoders and potmeters. (After ripping a few by force from PCB's with solderpads and traces you start looking for alternatives) If you warped the knobs, either the temperature is too high, the knob isn't heated evenly, or the material is too soft. I typically start at 100 degree C, work the heat around and don't keep it in one place. Feel with the back of your hand, you should be still able to touch the button without burning your fingers.
that mic you just fixed sounds better then then one your using lol
If you do put the Blue Yeti on a boom arm, just make sure it can handle the weight. It's a bit of a hefty fella.
Wow, I've got one of these. This is a great video. I get just as excited for your videos as I do for Primitive Technologies.
For the price, there are way many options that are better than the blue yeti nowadays
do you provide discounts on items cosmetically damaged from repairs? I have a repair business of my own but I'm in the early stages
I'm suprised you can't buy a shock stand from blue yet. it's really a shame because that breaks the quality a bit.
I guess you could but it on a bit of foam to help with that.
I got myself a free 2015 15" MBP with a service battery message recently and watching your channel has made me think I can actually replace the battery lol. Well at least if I mess it up it's not a big deal, although it looks like a complete PITA to do.
Try searching eBay for "usb mini socket" maybe that would give better results.
Good one and hard to pull knobs!
Hard to believe that you spend this much effort on something that costs
My one is not working after i fixed it
I used my fingers to remove the knobs and my mic is disassembled, but new plug ordered on Amazon will take 2 weeks to arrive :(
I would think the specs might be the same, but could be wrong. Why didn't you see about switching it to a USB c?
The blue yeti you can enable the noise cancellation on the mic via the apps like discord or the blue yeti software. I know someone who set up the mic correctly, so it is perfect once setup right
There's software for the blue yeti?
@@darkerrorcode its on the logitech G hub now
Are you able to change the usb type to usb c?
I like that desk mat design. Where did you get it?
When you remove those buttons you should pinch the thumb and index finger and use them as a leverage against the microphone and not try to pull like you did. Try that next time 😊
what soldering iron do you suggest for this sort of work, I have one but I'm afraid it isn't fit for the job!
Hard wired the cable on mine no more connection problems..
Question: would you be able to swap the mini usb port to a usb-c port or is the pinout different?
You'd have to use an adapter board then run some small wires. No USBC port would fit directly.
Anything is possible but would be very impractical. Tempted to swap it with a micro port but I've always preferred the older mini style that this came with, more rugged and dependable form factor.
Maybe it was broken by being bopped too many times when doing the '(BOP!) Testing..Testing (BOP!)..One..Two..Three..' thing.
Can you do type c instead of mini usb
It could be done, but it's a lot more work as you have to figure out how to mount a Type-C connector on there and then hand-wire it. Do-able as a project, not economic for me to do it for them unless I know the product really well already.
rubber gloves would give more grip on the knobs
Would it help to put a felt pad under the stand to deaden the pick up from the table?
Yes. Before I had a boom-arm for my mic, I just had it laying on a woolen hat. A pair of fresh ironed socks would also work, just something to act as a cushion. Shock mount is best, but literally anything is better than solid.
It already comes with a rubber one...
Great video thanks for making it.
I do have a question which is what model soldering gun/pen do you use?
Pinecil
If you are a pro, you would adapt a micro port to that mini usb. They are compatible you just need to wire or trace them to the micro port and also be creative on how to mount / anchor it. India tech😂
What search parameter did you use to find the mini usb on ebay?
"usb mini thru hole" was the magic combination in the end
Fun Fact: Blue is a division of Logitech
so this is a Logitech microphone
I'm not a fan of Yeti myself cuz it sounds, most of the time "scuffed" (idk how to explain it well, but it doesn't sound proper when I was monitoring my voice).
SM7B is just overrated cuz Michael Jackson used SM7 if I recall correctly. It's a good microphone, but, too many people praise it.
You can get a Samson Q7B (if I recall), or condenser wise... I remember none of top of my head xD
Yea. My beef with popular mics is that you can achieve 99% of the quality with a significantly cheaper mic if you do some setup. I'm no audio engineer, but I use a £25 Behringer USB condenser at home for twitch streaming that sounds plenty good enough. I wouldn't say it's a _good_ mic or anything, but the point is that you don't need to spend $500 on a Shure + audio interface to get Good Enough For Twitch/TH-cam audio.
Hello I'm a beginner at sodering I just got done replacing the old one with a new connecter and I manage to power it on!
But when I connected it doesn't recognize as a sound device
Sounds like the data pins of the USB might not be soldered correctly... check those inside pins for solder bridges, or give them a poke with tweezers to make sure they're actually soldered down. The outer pins are power and ground, so with those connected it'll power up, just not be able to communicate.
Hi Adamant IT, I know its a long shot .. But would it be possible to send in a "SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0"
I bought it from a Ebay Seller that definitley was not 100% truthful with me as the motherboard decided not to boot up anymore after a week of basic gaming and browsing (no overclocking was involved by me as I know its old and do not want to limit its life span further), So it just has a green light indicating the PSU is still working, I took the board out and placed my original old MSI 990FXA-GD80 and everything booted up and works fine leading me to know its the Sabertooth motherboard. I never buy second hand Tech unless its a old part needed but never do i take a deep dive with a Motherbaord.
I have tried everything you would normally do, cleared cmos, took battery out, removed all devices and tried it same procedure.
So i am stumped...
Thanks for taking the time to read my comment.
Would be great to swap it for an USB-C port, if that’s possible.
would be so cool if anyone would produce a USB-C jack wich fits in old places for usb mini, or a adapter PCB with a smd jack on it.
Yes, adapters exist for a few dollars.
That’s begging for a usbc, I use an elgato wave 3
thank you goodbye......
i wonder why i can't leave a question on your discord - let me know
Shouldn't be any issues? What happens when you try to post a message?
@@Adamant_IT it says i'm not allowed - on repair #2
and as well as any part of it - i guess i ask stupid questions
You're trying to post in closed rooms. There is a highlighted message there saying "Don't post in these channels. Use the forum channels."
Use the Support & Repair forum channels to ask support questions
@@Adamant_IT okay, thanks
Looks like your website is dead Graham
awesome
Loved every minute ...However
Adamant DDS
Please no shorts! Nobody likes those shorts but TH-cam and Google! They do nothing for your subs but take advertising advantage of them! Thanks for not posting anymore shorts and take care!
It's a very bad Assembling from this manufacture , my opinion it's over rated brand.