Bit of a janky no-post session today with an inconclusive result, but shows that the basic stuff like reseating memory, checking the CPU etc, still works just fine. It's not always an elaborate BIOS repair job! Although I mentioned the CPU swap getting this one to go, I think it was actually the act of putting _different_ RAM in that did it, although I couldn't tell you why because the original sticks weren't faulty, and the BIOS reset I did at the very beginning should've fixed a RAM training issue.
I remember having a similar problem with the same aged system. It turned out that the system had two mis-matched RAM sticks in it. Oddly enough, by simply switching their positions, the computer was able to boot just fine. But put in the other way around, it would not. By putting the slower/older RAM module in slot 0, and the newer one in slot 1, it worked. I think the BIOS reads the timing table from the RAM in slot 0, and assumes that table to be good for all other sticks.
@@QuentinStephens In my case, it was definitely not due to dirty contacts. The system simply refused to boot unless the older DIMM was in DIMM slot 0. I tried it back the other way around to be sure, and it again refused to boot. So I switched it back after learning something new. As I said above, these DIMMS have a timing table built into them: "Modern DIMMs include a Serial Presence Detect (SPD) ROM chip that contains recommended memory timings for automatic configuration as well as XMP profiles of faster timing information". And yes, both RAM modules checked out fine in a memory test with the older one in slot 0. Both sticks would work individually in slot 0 as well. But when trying to use the two sticks together, the mobo insisted that the older one was in slot 0. My guess is that the bios is only looking at the timing info of the DIMM in slot 0, and assuming that's appropriate for all the other slots as well.
what tools have you used to properly take all the filth and dust out of that think was it a air/gas high pressure dust can or some kinda of portable 600w to 1200w electric or petrol based blower or ? thanks in advance.
I really do enjoy old computers. I would take them as gifts, fix them and make a nice looking collection of home servers of all sorts of things. Great vid!
Removing memory first and getting beeps shows that at least the BIOS is read, decompressed and executed. This gives a strong indication that the motherboard and CPU fundamentals are in order. I usually start by removing memory just to be sure there is a pulse to begin with.
I once needed a machine in a hurry and bought a Compaq laptop from ASDA, I think that’s says everything about the series. Your channel very quickly becomes addictive, as much for your manner as for your knowledge.
As someone who runs the wheels off of aging systems, I love how you fix up these old systems that are still perfectly good for web browsing, watching videos, word processing, etc. If someone's not a gamer or video editor or musician, they really don't need more computing power than a Core 2 Quad with 8G RAM with a decent video card and SSD. If they want to game, even an Ivy Bridge system with a 1060 will do pretty well. I'm surprised that you aren't more into putting in SSD's. They're cheap now. I confess that I get a creepy grossout thrill from watching you blow the dust out of these old battlewagons. I guess it's like those pimple videos that I have only heard about, people like a good grossout.
Ah, one of those mutant Compaq systems. ATX upside down, no PCI Express, no slots for upgrades. The case is pretty much sealed, but it's covered in dust all the same. Glad you got it working.
I love this sort of 'repairs'. Thanks for sharing. You should convince the owner to put a second hand SSD in this retro thing🙂. He will be shocked by the startup speed🤣🥳. Dutch regards, Nico.
I remember similar problems on very old Dell and ICL PCs. There were two separate issues: thermal expansion caused the CPUs to lift slightly and thus have a dodgy connection with the socket (not relevant here), and the SIMMs (as they were back then) got dirty contacts - easily cleaned with a clean eraser. There was also an issue of corrosion when they cheaped out with SIMMs with tin contacts.
Another thing to factor in (in general) is the age of the board -- Somewhere over the years manufacturers switched to using a different type of solder that doesnt hold up well when it comes into contact with air. It doesnt matter if there is or is not any humidity, the environment will just eat away at the solder joints. Ive had a few old machines that did the same thing but the most common problem is ram slots on the motherboard just vanishing into thin air and not being seen by the system. Some other machines ive had suffered this issue and it didnt matter if the system ran dual or quad channel memory, one or two memory slots would vanish until i gave the ram that was installed a bit of a tap and a wiggle while installed. The ram tested perfectly fine on other machines though. I think the correct term for it is 'oxidisation' oxygen just eats away at it. eitherway, its some form of corrosion - it doesnt eat away at the board itself. Just the solder joints. This is just my own experience though. Depending on the board itself it could be other issues like cheap capacitors that the manufacturer installed because the board itself is a cheap throw away motherboard used for bottom tier office environments.
I am totally with you. I have had many systems that where defective due to a bad socket connection. In most cases, removing the item. a small spray of contact cleaner in the socket and re-seat and magic can happen.
I will suggest that when you first re-seated the memory, if there was a bit of dirt on a pin, you did not use anything to loosen it up. You should give the socket a small spray of good contact cleaner (one that does not hurt plastic). The fact it took you two tries is you probably cleaned the pin the second time.
Yea that might've been it. I initially removed and reseated the RAM, but maybe the second time when I changed it to different sticks was what actually scraped the contacts clean.
Hi Adam enjoyed your video from start to finish anyway fixed my m8ts PC didn't touched it for 2 years it was caked in dust so I used my Mrs hair dryer on a cold setting of course blew out all the dust cleaned the fans the motherboard and components and the PSU after all that put back together then I noticed the CPU fan was not spinning uh oh so I swapped out for another one worked fine.he didn't use for 2 years because his Sega football manager game kept crashing.now I gave it a good clean out working perfect now he's very happy with it now so he gave me £20 for fixing it that come in handy when times are hard with the cost of living.love watching your vids so much I can learn from it and helping friends and family with there problematic PC.
I saw some corruption of the Compaq logo boot up screen when it started up - but either way you got it in a much better state than it was when you got it, I'm guessing it's working perfectly now still.
This case reminds of the one that my parents had quite a while ago... Think it was a core 2 quad. Always managed to cake itself full of dust in the shortest time.
I was wrestling with this today. No beeps, No signal, no nothing, just fan spins. Tried everything possible, CHA41 even, flashing new M and Bkup bios on desoldered bios chip, and nothing, not even beep, so i take that as a loss, i pressed F and go on. When customer brings you pc which got last bios update in 2010, you know, you're in trouble. And i can't fix this one, that caps just died i think. Sorry, sweet prince, it's not always for the win.
Simple dust can cause all kind of errors. Seen several times, all symptoms stay there, you try this and that, but, when you clean the dust? it suddenly works. This was early on so that it why I clean first before anything, generally.
Not on this one. I'm not a fan of these tin-box towers, and prefer customers not to invest in them. It would be viable, but long-term, I'd prefer the customer replace it.
Nice job. I wonder would it be useful to clean up the sockets with deoxit or some other contact cleaner. This system being so old, maybe not. Probably better off upgrading. Me saying that, sat here with a relic myself (2nd gen I5) lol. Each to their own, I suppose.
Had the exact same issue with my old computer just yesterday. Reset bios didn't work, removed one of two ram sticks to force a memory training has fixed the issue. Re-installed ram stick and all back to normal. Thought I'd share for anyone who doesn't have a spear ram stick to test it out with.
I had one of those CPUs in an a free PC I set up as an off-site backup server. Thee network activity alone was enough to saturate the processor. I threw it away immediately. It was too painful.
Hey Graham, I have one of these and I too pushed it up to 16GB and did everything you did apart from the CPU, I had to power it on/off a few times before eventually it kicked in, it now works only when I reboot Windows and the power is left in. I suspect some type of power issue with the power box.
A desktop PC running off a a laptop power brick? What abomination is this, that’s a new one on me, No wonder Compaq have gone into obscurity if this is the kind of trash they’ve been selling.
Regullar desktop PC with external laptop power supply adapter? Okaj, that is first for me 😁. I saw very little mini PC, intel Atom that little desktop PC with power supply and it had no space for regullar desktop power supply.
Btw that was a good start for a hd boot of windows. Worst cases when ppl didnt update windows for years and the system tries to patch at start up!!! It sits there for hours rotating the rust😅
It's a Pentium, not so much running as jogging! I've just upgraded an Acer ES1-571 with a 4th gen Pentium, 4GB ram, and the ubiquitous 1GB hard drive, which came to me "working". Powered it on, took 5 minutes to get to the login screen, then another 25 minutes to get to a point where it was vaguely responsive. Luckily an empty ram slot, so double the memory, stuck in 500GB Samsung 870 EVO SSD. Boots up and responsive in 30 seconds, truly 60 times faster!!! For the use it will get, a new laptop would not do the job any better.
Had a similar case with I think an Acer laptop of the same generation (i5-4210U, 8 gigs of RAM, 500 gig HDD I think, Win8 upgraded to 10). It had never been used much as it took ages to even boot. I convinced the owner to invest in a Crucial MX500 - night and day. Calibrated the screen as well, which had the typical TN panel blue tinge. Salvage accomplished.The bottom was an absolute pig to get back on though, unlike YT tutorials which made it look super easy. Tolerances, who knows. I hate consumer laptops and their gazillion clips.
@@PileOfEmptyTapes Funnily enough, this laptop was perhaps the easiest to open I've ever done. Took out all the screws, and it almost fell apart, and no-one had been into it before me.
@@neilshep50 Found which model I had been working on... it was an Acer E5-573-54HH. The TN panel identified itself as an N156BGE-E32 (DisplayCAL is quite talkative in this regard). So if anyone needs an ICC profile for that taken on Windows 10...
in my experience owning a computer shop once with computers having shared memory .. it could be an issue with a faulty stick or even unseated correctly it did have a lot of dust... i was shouting at the screen lol .. swap the memory sticks first lol
the pins on the mainboard over time loose contact i fixed a lot of those back in the day just by re seating or sometimes looking from an angle and lift certain pins up with a needle. same problems also when its not detecting memory, same goes for newer computers as well these sockets are really crap
My roommate had an HP like this. It was basically just a laptop motherboard in a case. Used a power brick, soldered CPU and laptop RAM. It sucked. I saw the case had slots for expansion cards, so I assumed we could put a GPU in it. Turns out, when we opened it up, there were no PCIe slots :( We kept the GPU and eventually built a proper computer using it.
Another issue that dust presents besides poor cooling is that it can harbor moisture which in turn can short out components causing all sorts of strange behaviors. Re: the thermal paste application. I suppose this debate could go on ad nauseum however, I use Arctic Silver brand thermal paste and they have very specific instructions on the "proper" application of their thermal paste. They recommend for most, but not all, Intel CPU's to apply a single vertical line of paste in the center of the lid from top to bottom.
@@Roadkill7878 Well, provided that 'no matter how you do it' includes not using far FAR more than necessary, and having it squeeze out and all over your mobo.
@@Roadkill7878 Yep. It never hurts to see (research) how your CPU type looks without the lid on it -- to give you a better idea where to focus your attention with the thermal paste.
A 256 or 512 Gb SSD upgrade for a spinning HD would definitely be worthwhile, if wanting to keep the machine out of the trash pile. An old PC button battery may test at 3.0 volts, but may still be unable to output sufficient amperage, depending on age. So: with a cloned SSD & new bios battery, also offer the customer a Windows 10 upgrade, if that hasn't already been done. Should continue useful life until Windows 10's scheduled support end date of 2025.
Yeah, if it's only used for office work, the cheapest SSD would be a major upgrade. I've done that at work, before I was given the money to replace the 7-10 year old computers that people were using.
This, my 4th build, took place from late Nov 2021, through mid Feb 2022, due to my Z390M replacement mobos being: 1/ DOA from China; 2/ USA Support would not RMA mobos sourced from China; 3/ mobo package mislabeled and delivered elsewhere; and 4/ I was informed that the Z390M mobo they marketed and thus I ordered, was no longer in their warehouse. I've had enough! Time to move forward to a Z690 mATX mobo, an Intel i9-12900K CPU and 32 GB of DDR4 or preferably DDR5 memory, sourced locally. A GIGABYTE AORUS Z690M ELITE DDR4 mobo was installed. Having experienced no successful Boot action, an ASUS R.O.G. STRIX Z690-G GAMING WIFI was then installed. Did not fare any better. I cannot recall which did what, but one would not POST, just started for 18-23 seconds and shut down for 2 seconds, then repeated, again and again, no matter what I tried. The other mobo provided no signal to the monitor, either from the mobo or the graphics card. All fans did come on, but only for a micro-moment immediately at start-up and just prior to the PC shutting down. In between, no fans were running. The drift of substantial heat from the CPU cooler felt by my hand, confirmed that Windows 10 had launched. A test Intel i5-12400 CPU, confirmed that the first Intel i9-12900K CPU I installed, was defective. In part, my 4th build consists of the refined, rock solid, ASUS R.O.G. STRIX Z690-G GAMING WIFI mATX mobo; the powerful yet efficient, Intel i9-12900K CPU, OC'd 34%, T-Junction 94°C and cooled by a Noctua NH-U9S tower, in a mini-tower case I modified for effective hot component cooling, without introducing any objectionable operational sounds or noises.
I second removing the battery as opposed to jumping the clear rtc pins. There's actually been multiple occasions Ive wasted at least 30-60 minutes on a fix that removing the battery instead would have fixed. The clrrtc jumper pins are just unreliable.
Yup. I initially dismissed it because this uses the iGPU, but it seems to apply for "monitor not detected / no output active" as well, which was the issue I had once we got that far.
Hey, don't knock machines with external power supplies - some people pay good money for a PicoPSU, this one basically already has one built-in. Looks like the board should fit up to an i3-3220T. Chuck in one of those (or a 3240T/3250T) and an SSD e.g. MX500, and you've got a perfectly decent, not very power-hungry office machine or server. (I would guess about 12-13 W idle. Not Haswell or Skylake terrain, but definitely not a massive power hog.) Given that the external power brick seems to be a 90W job, I may even risk an i5-3470T/3570T (TDP 45 W rather than 35 W). Oh, and some rubber nipples for the exhaust fan, I hate that HP/Compaq were so boneheaded to use hard-mounted fans as late as Ivy Bridge. There's only one thing that really stinks about this machine - onboard Ethernet apparently is 10/100 only. Really antiquated for something from 2012/13.
Oh My God! Get the dust out of there! You do NOT need to put the BIOS coin cell or whatever coin cell the BIOS has. The coin cell for BIOS is just for backup in case the main power is off. You can reseat things or build a system without the BIOS coin cell. If it is all ok, the coin cell can go to its place if the system powers ok.
I have experienced that beeping sound and I have 2 output port one dvi and one vga, the problem turns out it does not like dvi, once i put the vga it stops beeping and continue to post
The dust could be a very big problem, for you. Depending on the environment, cat dander can be harsh on your lungs. Mouse poo will kill you. Blowing this out is probably the most stupid thing I have ever seen. Buy a vacuum with a heppa filter. If you must blow it out, do it outside.
Oh absolutely, I blow out the dust outside, the shop would be under a carpet of it otherwise. It's why there's rarely footage of the dusting, as I have to go out back where the air compressor is.
Never the CPU except when it is - and it was for me just recently --- just creates snow - swop for another and it all worked - put the dodgy processor back in and super snow reappears - so wonder what could be done to fix that - nothing I suspect
I need help with bypassing a Windows 10 password. The account isn’t a local one but a Microsoft account one. I don’t have access to any of the “I’ve forgotten my password” recovery options such as phone or email Is there anyway to bypass this? If not I can just backdoor in Linux and drag and drop any data off that method but worth a try resetting Thanks
It’s amazing how you don’t have a compatible CPU for testing purposes. Without trying and just over a couple of years I’ve amassed dozens of 2nd, 3rd and 4th gen Pentiums and Celerons that I keep in a box for this exact scenario. CEX sell Pentium CPU’s for 10p, you should always have some kicking about. That being said, in my opinion, it’s probably the RAM at fault. Edit: Ahhhh, trolled by the DVI-HDMI adapter, bummer!
I'm getting hives just watching this. Can i interest you in a small hand vacuum? 🙂 p.s. i think you can short the battery holder terminals if you cant find dedicated pins/button.
A while back someone left a huge desktop on the side of the recycling bin and I picked it up. The guy poked the connection ports in the back and also the cpu socket. I assume that it was faulty and would by doing so not fool anyone to try to use it OR its just someone that didnt want others to take advantage of getting a working board for free. I bought a socket from china just to see if I can repair it. Not for the mb but for the practice. This should be fun :)
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
Bit of a janky no-post session today with an inconclusive result, but shows that the basic stuff like reseating memory, checking the CPU etc, still works just fine. It's not always an elaborate BIOS repair job!
Although I mentioned the CPU swap getting this one to go, I think it was actually the act of putting _different_ RAM in that did it, although I couldn't tell you why because the original sticks weren't faulty, and the BIOS reset I did at the very beginning should've fixed a RAM training issue.
I remember having a similar problem with the same aged system. It turned out that the system had two mis-matched RAM sticks in it. Oddly enough, by simply switching their positions, the computer was able to boot just fine. But put in the other way around, it would not. By putting the slower/older RAM module in slot 0, and the newer one in slot 1, it worked. I think the BIOS reads the timing table from the RAM in slot 0, and assumes that table to be good for all other sticks.
I expect there was a dirty contact on one of the DIMMs.
@@QuentinStephens In my case, it was definitely not due to dirty contacts. The system simply refused to boot unless the older DIMM was in DIMM slot 0. I tried it back the other way around to be sure, and it again refused to boot. So I switched it back after learning something new. As I said above, these DIMMS have a timing table built into them: "Modern DIMMs include a Serial Presence Detect (SPD) ROM chip that contains recommended memory timings for automatic configuration as well as XMP profiles of faster timing information". And yes, both RAM modules checked out fine in a memory test with the older one in slot 0. Both sticks would work individually in slot 0 as well. But when trying to use the two sticks together, the mobo insisted that the older one was in slot 0. My guess is that the bios is only looking at the timing info of the DIMM in slot 0, and assuming that's appropriate for all the other slots as well.
@@shanejohns7901 As my other comment elaborates, I'm going back a log way, back before DIMMs to SIMMs
what tools have you used to properly take all the filth and dust out of that think was it a air/gas high pressure dust can or some kinda of portable 600w to 1200w electric or petrol based blower or ? thanks in advance.
I really do enjoy old computers. I would take them as gifts, fix them and make a nice looking collection of home servers of all sorts of things. Great vid!
Removing memory first and getting beeps shows that at least the BIOS is read, decompressed and executed. This gives a strong indication that the motherboard and CPU fundamentals are in order. I usually start by removing memory just to be sure there is a pulse to begin with.
That old computer brings back a lot of "fond" memories thanks thumbs up.
I once needed a machine in a hurry and bought a Compaq laptop from ASDA, I think that’s says everything about the series.
Your channel very quickly becomes addictive, as much for your manner as for your knowledge.
As someone who runs the wheels off of aging systems, I love how you fix up these old systems that are still perfectly good for web browsing, watching videos, word processing, etc. If someone's not a gamer or video editor or musician, they really don't need more computing power than a Core 2 Quad with 8G RAM with a decent video card and SSD. If they want to game, even an Ivy Bridge system with a 1060 will do pretty well. I'm surprised that you aren't more into putting in SSD's. They're cheap now. I confess that I get a creepy grossout thrill from watching you blow the dust out of these old battlewagons. I guess it's like those pimple videos that I have only heard about, people like a good grossout.
Ah, one of those mutant Compaq systems. ATX upside down, no PCI Express, no slots for upgrades. The case is pretty much sealed, but it's covered in dust all the same. Glad you got it working.
I love this sort of 'repairs'. Thanks for sharing. You should convince the owner to put a second hand SSD in this retro thing🙂. He will be shocked by the startup speed🤣🥳. Dutch regards, Nico.
Your Thermalpaste pattern has been rated: Sarcasticly!. Congratulations ! Love your content mate!
Finally, back to fixing some desktops. These are my favorite.
I remember similar problems on very old Dell and ICL PCs. There were two separate issues: thermal expansion caused the CPUs to lift slightly and thus have a dodgy connection with the socket (not relevant here), and the SIMMs (as they were back then) got dirty contacts - easily cleaned with a clean eraser. There was also an issue of corrosion when they cheaped out with SIMMs with tin contacts.
I also remember at one time there was a problem with bad CAPS.
@@kens32052 That was Abit motherboards, wasn't it?
Another thing to factor in (in general) is the age of the board -- Somewhere over the years manufacturers switched to using a different type of solder that doesnt hold up well when it comes into contact with air. It doesnt matter if there is or is not any humidity, the environment will just eat away at the solder joints.
Ive had a few old machines that did the same thing but the most common problem is ram slots on the motherboard just vanishing into thin air and not being seen by the system. Some other machines ive had suffered this issue and it didnt matter if the system ran dual or quad channel memory, one or two memory slots would vanish until i gave the ram that was installed a bit of a tap and a wiggle while installed. The ram tested perfectly fine on other machines though.
I think the correct term for it is 'oxidisation' oxygen just eats away at it. eitherway, its some form of corrosion - it doesnt eat away at the board itself. Just the solder joints.
This is just my own experience though. Depending on the board itself it could be other issues like cheap capacitors that the manufacturer installed because the board itself is a cheap throw away motherboard used for bottom tier office environments.
Time for a coffee when you look at old tech like that ... long live 8 bit for me lol
I am totally with you. I have had many systems that where defective due to a bad socket connection. In most cases, removing the item. a small spray of contact cleaner in the socket and re-seat and magic can happen.
Usually cleaning the RAM slots with compressed air and RAM pins with alcohol does the trick!
When you turned that compaq pc around and look at the back I started laughing.
I can't believe compaq wasted all that space and aluminium.. Surely they could have saved even more money with an ITX form factor case
I will suggest that when you first re-seated the memory, if there was a bit of dirt on a pin, you did not use anything to loosen it up. You should give the socket a small spray of good contact cleaner (one that does not hurt plastic). The fact it took you two tries is you probably cleaned the pin the second time.
Yea that might've been it. I initially removed and reseated the RAM, but maybe the second time when I changed it to different sticks was what actually scraped the contacts clean.
thermal paste application .... perfect :D Steve at Gamers Nexus would approve lol
good one again graham love the forgot to turn on keyboard at the end!! we all do it frequently
Dust and reseat. Always a good starting point.
Ssd upgrade ftw!
Hi Adam enjoyed your video from start to finish anyway fixed my m8ts PC didn't touched it for 2 years it was caked in dust so I used my Mrs hair dryer on a cold setting of course blew out all the dust cleaned the fans the motherboard and components and the PSU after all that put back together then I noticed the CPU fan was not spinning uh oh so I swapped out for another one worked fine.he didn't use for 2 years because his Sega football manager game kept crashing.now I gave it a good clean out working perfect now he's very happy with it now so he gave me £20 for fixing it that come in handy when times are hard with the cost of living.love watching your vids so much I can learn from it and helping friends and family with there problematic PC.
I saw some corruption of the Compaq logo boot up screen when it started up - but either way you got it in a much better state than it was when you got it, I'm guessing it's working perfectly now still.
Simple and effective :) This PC need only SSD drive and it is good enough for browsing and simple tasks.
Compaq Presario up there with eMachines, Tiny PCs, GateWay PCs and they flooded the market with them
More of these please!
your thermal paste pattern is awesome because it's node based... 🤣🤣🤣
This case reminds of the one that my parents had quite a while ago... Think it was a core 2 quad. Always managed to cake itself full of dust in the shortest time.
Nice. I love this videos. Thank you.
I was wrestling with this today. No beeps, No signal, no nothing, just fan spins. Tried everything possible, CHA41 even, flashing new M and Bkup bios on desoldered bios chip, and nothing, not even beep, so i take that as a loss, i pressed F and go on. When customer brings you pc which got last bios update in 2010, you know, you're in trouble. And i can't fix this one, that caps just died i think.
Sorry, sweet prince, it's not always for the win.
What a rinky-dink looking machine. It’s 85% air!
Simple dust can cause all kind of errors. Seen several times, all symptoms stay there, you try this and that, but, when you clean the dust? it suddenly works. This was early on so that it why I clean first before anything, generally.
Did you try to upsell the customer on a SSD to help speed the unit up?
Not on this one. I'm not a fan of these tin-box towers, and prefer customers not to invest in them. It would be viable, but long-term, I'd prefer the customer replace it.
I used to have that Weird Fish Top :)
From my experience, there is a chance that dust gets under the CPU. Happened to me on a 2200G AM4 build after cleaning it.
The keyboard you use on your workbench there....what model is it?......I like the white/grey/red.
Royal Kludge RK100
Nice job. I wonder would it be useful to clean up the sockets with deoxit or some other contact cleaner. This system being so old, maybe not. Probably better off upgrading. Me saying that, sat here with a relic myself (2nd gen I5) lol. Each to their own, I suppose.
Had the exact same issue with my old computer just yesterday. Reset bios didn't work, removed one of two ram sticks to force a memory training has fixed the issue. Re-installed ram stick and all back to normal. Thought I'd share for anyone who doesn't have a spear ram stick to test it out with.
I had one of those CPUs in an a free PC I set up as an off-site backup server. Thee network activity alone was enough to saturate the processor.
I threw it away immediately. It was too painful.
I am still happy with my Sandybridge i7 2600k. I think it has about of foot of dust on it and counting.
Hey Graham, I have one of these and I too pushed it up to 16GB and did everything you did apart from the CPU, I had to power it on/off a few times before eventually it kicked in, it now works only when I reboot Windows and the power is left in. I suspect some type of power issue with the power box.
A desktop PC running off a a laptop power brick? What abomination is this, that’s a new one on me, No wonder Compaq have gone into obscurity if this is the kind of trash they’ve been selling.
This works if it's not encrypted, if FileVault is on, you'll be up against the same iCloud password locking you out of the original laptop.
I like your sweater
looks a lot like win10?thats got to be a chore for that old geezer,, good vid!
This is a practical video
the old socket A athlons were great for burning up without a cooler.
Regullar desktop PC with external laptop power supply adapter? Okaj, that is first for me 😁. I saw very little mini PC, intel Atom that little desktop PC with power supply and it had no space for regullar desktop power supply.
Btw that was a good start for a hd boot of windows. Worst cases when ppl didnt update windows for years and the system tries to patch at start up!!! It sits there for hours rotating the rust😅
Exellent graham.
It's a Pentium, not so much running as jogging!
I've just upgraded an Acer ES1-571 with a 4th gen Pentium, 4GB ram, and the ubiquitous 1GB hard drive, which came to me "working". Powered it on, took 5 minutes to get to the login screen, then another 25 minutes to get to a point where it was vaguely responsive. Luckily an empty ram slot, so double the memory, stuck in 500GB Samsung 870 EVO SSD. Boots up and responsive in 30 seconds, truly 60 times faster!!! For the use it will get, a new laptop would not do the job any better.
Had a similar case with I think an Acer laptop of the same generation (i5-4210U, 8 gigs of RAM, 500 gig HDD I think, Win8 upgraded to 10). It had never been used much as it took ages to even boot. I convinced the owner to invest in a Crucial MX500 - night and day. Calibrated the screen as well, which had the typical TN panel blue tinge. Salvage accomplished.The bottom was an absolute pig to get back on though, unlike YT tutorials which made it look super easy. Tolerances, who knows. I hate consumer laptops and their gazillion clips.
@@PileOfEmptyTapes Funnily enough, this laptop was perhaps the easiest to open I've ever done. Took out all the screws, and it almost fell apart, and no-one had been into it before me.
@@neilshep50 Found which model I had been working on... it was an Acer E5-573-54HH. The TN panel identified itself as an N156BGE-E32 (DisplayCAL is quite talkative in this regard). So if anyone needs an ICC profile for that taken on Windows 10...
in my experience owning a computer shop once with computers having shared memory .. it could be an issue with a faulty stick or even unseated correctly it did have a lot of dust... i was shouting at the screen lol .. swap the memory sticks first lol
I've seen several P4 Northwood cpus back in the day that wouldn't boot when thermally compromised, re-seating/repasting always did the trick.
Yank that janky CPU and all is good! A fix is a fix whether it's technical or not.
the pins on the mainboard over time loose contact i fixed a lot of those back in the day just by re seating or sometimes looking from an angle and lift certain pins up with a needle. same problems also when its not detecting memory, same goes for newer computers as well these sockets are really crap
My roommate had an HP like this. It was basically just a laptop motherboard in a case. Used a power brick, soldered CPU and laptop RAM. It sucked.
I saw the case had slots for expansion cards, so I assumed we could put a GPU in it. Turns out, when we opened it up, there were no PCIe slots :(
We kept the GPU and eventually built a proper computer using it.
wonder if customer would like a ssd
Everytime I encountered those types of problem, I usually started by removing the cmos battery first..
Its always entertaining and helpful to see you at investigation work.👍👏 What about renaming your channel into "cold case" or something😂
Actually i always think on Adam Ant, when seeing content on this channel, so maybe the name could be "Stand and deliver" :)
That thing belongs into a museum. 😁
Awesome
CPU thermal paste would have been my first thought, I had this happen to my PC, replaced the paste and it worked again.
Oooh chocolate Hob Nobs
Another issue that dust presents besides poor cooling is that it can harbor moisture which in turn can short out components causing all sorts of strange behaviors. Re: the thermal paste application.
I suppose this debate could go on ad nauseum however, I use Arctic Silver brand thermal paste and they have very specific instructions on the "proper" application of their thermal paste. They recommend for most, but not all, Intel CPU's to apply a single vertical line of paste in the center of the lid from top to bottom.
If you have moist dust in your computer then you probably live in either a swamp or you have terrible case ventilation.
@@Roadkill7878 Well, provided that 'no matter how you do it' includes not using far FAR more than necessary, and having it squeeze out and all over your mobo.
@@shanejohns7901 I take it that you learnt that from experience, did you?
@@Roadkill7878 Yep. It never hurts to see (research) how your CPU type looks without the lid on it -- to give you a better idea where to focus your attention with the thermal paste.
Can you recommend best budget h510m/410m and b450m/b550m mobos?
"Did you try turning it off and on again?"
:D
Are the capacitors bulging ?
nice pattern though ny OCD tells me it was off just a touch to the left hahahahaha
A 256 or 512 Gb SSD upgrade for a spinning HD would definitely be worthwhile, if wanting to keep the machine out of the trash pile. An old PC button battery may test at 3.0 volts, but may still be unable to output sufficient amperage, depending on age. So: with a cloned SSD & new bios battery, also offer the customer a Windows 10 upgrade, if that hasn't already been done. Should continue useful life until Windows 10's scheduled support end date of 2025.
Yeah, if it's only used for office work, the cheapest SSD would be a major upgrade. I've done that at work, before I was given the money to replace the 7-10 year old computers that people were using.
This, my 4th build, took place from late Nov 2021, through mid Feb 2022, due to my Z390M replacement mobos being: 1/ DOA from China; 2/ USA Support would not RMA mobos sourced from China; 3/ mobo package mislabeled and delivered elsewhere; and 4/ I was informed that the Z390M mobo they marketed and thus I ordered, was no longer in their warehouse.
I've had enough! Time to move forward to a Z690 mATX mobo, an Intel i9-12900K CPU and 32 GB of DDR4 or preferably DDR5 memory, sourced locally. A GIGABYTE AORUS Z690M ELITE DDR4 mobo was installed. Having experienced no successful Boot action, an ASUS R.O.G. STRIX Z690-G GAMING WIFI was then installed. Did not fare any better. I cannot recall which did what, but one would not POST, just started for 18-23 seconds and shut down for 2 seconds, then repeated, again and again, no matter what I tried. The other mobo provided no signal to the monitor, either from the mobo or the graphics card. All fans did come on, but only for a micro-moment immediately at start-up and just prior to the PC shutting down. In between, no fans were running. The drift of substantial heat from the CPU cooler felt by my hand, confirmed that Windows 10 had launched. A test Intel i5-12400 CPU, confirmed that the first Intel i9-12900K CPU I installed, was defective.
In part, my 4th build consists of the refined, rock solid, ASUS R.O.G. STRIX Z690-G GAMING WIFI mATX mobo; the powerful yet efficient, Intel i9-12900K CPU, OC'd 34%, T-Junction 94°C and cooled by a Noctua NH-U9S tower, in a mini-tower case I modified for effective hot component cooling, without introducing any objectionable operational sounds or noises.
I second removing the battery as opposed to jumping the clear rtc pins. There's actually been multiple occasions Ive wasted at least 30-60 minutes on a fix that removing the battery instead would have fixed. The clrrtc jumper pins are just unreliable.
From what I've seen, six beeps is normally related to bad video / video card not detected
Yup. I initially dismissed it because this uses the iGPU, but it seems to apply for "monitor not detected / no output active" as well, which was the issue I had once we got that far.
Seems possible, artifacts at 20:28
👍👍
What about just turning it on, without the battery? :)
also the caps could dry out without the airflow from the cooler.
first thing i would do with that PC to fix it, would be to take it to the skip and throw it in :)
are those massive artifacts after booting ok? i really dont remember if old pc's are supposed to do that
Yea that's a quirk of Win 10 on non-uEFI/early uEFI systems.
@@Adamant_IT cool! I'll keep that in mind for the future. Love your content dude, keep it up
20:20 - I see graphic arifacts hehe
👍
this is socket 1155 cause i am using the same gen motherboard stilll now. its 2 or 3rd gen.
Hey, don't knock machines with external power supplies - some people pay good money for a PicoPSU, this one basically already has one built-in. Looks like the board should fit up to an i3-3220T. Chuck in one of those (or a 3240T/3250T) and an SSD e.g. MX500, and you've got a perfectly decent, not very power-hungry office machine or server. (I would guess about 12-13 W idle. Not Haswell or Skylake terrain, but definitely not a massive power hog.) Given that the external power brick seems to be a 90W job, I may even risk an i5-3470T/3570T (TDP 45 W rather than 35 W). Oh, and some rubber nipples for the exhaust fan, I hate that HP/Compaq were so boneheaded to use hard-mounted fans as late as Ivy Bridge.
There's only one thing that really stinks about this machine - onboard Ethernet apparently is 10/100 only. Really antiquated for something from 2012/13.
Oh My God! Get the dust out of there!
You do NOT need to put the BIOS coin cell or whatever coin cell the BIOS has. The coin cell for BIOS is just for backup in case the main power is off. You can reseat things or build a system without the BIOS coin cell. If it is all ok, the coin cell can go to its place if the system powers ok.
I have experienced that beeping sound and I have 2 output port one dvi and one vga, the problem turns out it does not like dvi, once i put the vga it stops beeping and continue to post
Same as what happened to me 👌
I was on DVI->HDMI->Capture Card when it was beeping at me. Plugged in a VGA screen and it was happy.
The dust could be a very big problem, for you. Depending on the environment, cat dander can be harsh on your lungs. Mouse poo will kill you. Blowing this out is probably the most stupid thing I have ever seen. Buy a vacuum with a heppa filter. If you must blow it out, do it outside.
Oh absolutely, I blow out the dust outside, the shop would be under a carpet of it otherwise. It's why there's rarely footage of the dusting, as I have to go out back where the air compressor is.
Never the CPU except when it is - and it was for me just recently --- just creates snow - swop for another and it all worked - put the dodgy processor back in and super snow reappears - so wonder what could be done to fix that - nothing I suspect
I need help with bypassing a Windows 10 password.
The account isn’t a local one but a Microsoft account one.
I don’t have access to any of the “I’ve forgotten my password” recovery options such as phone or email
Is there anyway to bypass this?
If not I can just backdoor in Linux and drag and drop any data off that method but worth a try resetting
Thanks
give it an ssd and linux mint xfce
Thanks for doing a desktop, laptops get boring.
It’s amazing how you don’t have a compatible CPU for testing purposes. Without trying and just over a couple of years I’ve amassed dozens of 2nd, 3rd and 4th gen Pentiums and Celerons that I keep in a box for this exact scenario. CEX sell Pentium CPU’s for 10p, you should always have some kicking about.
That being said, in my opinion, it’s probably the RAM at fault.
Edit: Ahhhh, trolled by the DVI-HDMI adapter, bummer!
it's fine it will spread all over CPU once cooler on
I'm getting hives just watching this. Can i interest you in a small hand vacuum? 🙂
p.s. i think you can short the battery holder terminals if you cant find dedicated pins/button.
Old PCs and office jobs. Quit windows and put some GNU/Linux on it. My linux flavor of choice nowadays is Mint. Pretty slick and fun.
Have you ever replaced a cpu socket on a motherboard?
No, but I've actually had some tools and parts to do a practise run on an AM3+ board for a while now - rainy day project.
A while back someone left a huge desktop on the side of the recycling bin and I picked it up. The guy poked the connection ports in the back and also the cpu socket. I assume that it was faulty and would by doing so not fool anyone to try to use it OR its just someone that didnt want others to take advantage of getting a working board for free. I bought a socket from china just to see if I can repair it. Not for the mb but for the practice. This should be fun :)
that monster is begging for an SSD tbh
Pops OS or peppermint candidate
Thermal paste I give you a 60 out of 100.
Ey there is one HP with adapter like that in my workplace. i3 2120T, 2GB of ram, and... it's just recently broke.
this thing should have went straight into the bin
hey you proved you are human .by not turning on the keyboard.
I've had DVD rom go bad and screw up a system
I've had a hard disk do that. Must be a very funky power issue to cause that.